Omg those colors are terrible. I'm so sorry!

You're renting right? Have you ever painted anything before? First things first, ask the landlord if he'll supply the paint if you supply the labor. It can't hurt! But you'd need to do a decent job sooo...

I'd go with a cool white in the kitchen. They make special super smooth durable paint for cupboards, but it's pricy! It finishes more like an enamel. Try to find out what kind of paint was used previously. You may need a primer and if you aren't sure, definitely get primer. Just do everything white, and research how to paint cupboards. 90% of a good paint job is prep work! Things like sanding, removing hardware, priming, taking cupboards doors down, etc. I wouldn't waste time on the insides unless you're really anal about stuff. I always bought the rubbery liners for mine.

If the landlord allows, I'd add hardware to the cupboards as well. These are a decent clean look:

Cosmas 305-030SN Satin Nickel Cabinet Hardware Euro Style Bar Handle Pull - 3" Hole Centers, 5-3/8" Overall Length - 25 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D0KWBJ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_j3RDzbD9DSWFH

But measure to see what makes sense. Drill and sand the holes before painting and look to see if there were pre-existing pulls. If so, try to re-use those old holes (sometimes they are patched and painted over). Path of least resistance and so forth...

The kitchen looks small with no natural light so I think the under cabinet LED strips are a great idea. Something like this might work - I would go with warm lighting just so the white isn't so stark.

Albrillo LED Under Cabinet Lighting Dimmable Warm White, 12W 900 Lumens, 3 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ARQY31S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_X7RDzb9EGZ4KM

For the living area just get rid of that ugly neon vomit color as fast as possible. Dear god. Do not leave any of that.

I would aim for something in a very light warm gray (I know it's not the most revolutionary but it works) for the walls or if you want to go modern, a nice crisp white. You can always add warmth and color with textiles (furniture, rugs, curtains) so don't be afraid of doing a fresh box in white if you want the light. Use a matte or eggshell finish in the living room. Anything with gloss will highlight EVERY imperfection in the walls.

If your living room windows are subject to passerby's views, I'd consider getting a double rod for curtains. A softly textured sheer curtain will allow lots of light in the daytime while still obscuring you from unwanted attention. Something like this:
Best Dreamcity Faux Linen Sheer White Curtains / Draperies for Bedroom (Pack of 2 Panels, W52" by L84", White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F03O5SO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rbSDzb6SMDNRP

You can then choose a thicker curtain for the outer rod for evening privacy. (Sheers tend to be much more sheer at night when lights are on inside.)

Since it's a basement apartment, if the ceilings are low, you can trick the eye into seeing the ceilings as higher if you hang the rod closer to the ceiling but it looks like you have standard height ceilings so I think a standard 84" long curtain length would work out fine.

As far as furniture goes, it's so subjective, but the setup in the pic looks good! I would stay with neutrals, personally, and add color through throw blankets or toss pillows and artwork and accent pieces (be they plants or statuary or what have you). I'm still a big fan of grey. It's a one bed so I'd consider a sleeper sofa. They've come a long way and you don't have to get something that looks like it lived at your grandmas. Something along these lines would work well, I think. (The added storage is a nice bonus too.)

Poundex F6931 Bobkona Jassi Linen-Like Sectional with Pull-Out Bed and Compartment, Blue Grey https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CAJSC1W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_chSDzbBPEP4EG

I'd add some large area rugs. Definitely some artwork. Society6.com is a good place to find interesting art on a budget.

Add some simple mirrors on the walls as well - ideally one large one on the wall opposite the windows to reflect light back through the apartment. It would make a world of difference for you. I'm kinda pushing you in the clean and modern direction so I'd recommend something like this:

Raphael Rozen - Elegant - Modern - Classic - Vintage - Rustic - Hanging Framed Wall Mounted Mirror, Distressed Wood Finish, Gray - White Color https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G2FVBOA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kmSDzbASV1EQ2

It could add some warmth and texture to what might otherwise be a bland wall. Adding some floating shelves below or to the sides with some favorite books or mementos might be nice as well.

Definitely add some floor lamps and perhaps a side table lamp or two as well. Lighting is so much more important than people give it credit for. Always buy soft white. I actually really like Edison bulbs inside of lamps because they are a soft and soothing lighting, even when covered by lamp shades. They make a nice point of interest too. I always buy lamps with 3-way switches also. You'll never realize how awesome it is until you have it and then you'll use it constantly. (Won't work with the Edison bulbs though - you'll have to buy the dimmable lightbulbs). If you want the Edison bulb look to be a part of the decor, these lamps are pretty fun and work well for date night lighting, chilling on the couch eating snacks and watching Netflix lighting etc.


Injuicy Lighting Loft Retro Industrial E27 Edison Bulb Wooden Base Table Lights Vintage Antique Wood Desk Lamp for Bedside Bedroom Living Dining Room Home Corridor with Switch(Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FYRD37U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HrSDzb4CXRZ75

If you're buying area rugs - get them larger. You want to define a space with it - not have a bath mat between your couch and your coffee table.

Get a coffee table with storage. Having a place for all your stuff is key to keeping things looking nice and uncluttered. I love having lots of blankets around because I tend to hunker down in winter but if you're really minimalist you could get away with not having storage.

If you don't have a coat closet and you don't have a large entry for a standard coat hook wall hanging try one of these for the things you use every day:

JustNile Versatile Metal 180 Degree Triple Pronged Swivel Swing Arm Wall Mounted Hook, Set of 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y5C5CSW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OvSDzbBWNGVNK

And that's where I'm gonna stop because I do have to work tomorrow.

One caveat - I did push for a more modern look BUT all of this advice would work if you like a more traditional style too. Key points being lots of neutrals and don't get too crazy with accent colors. Match your finishes on metals as much as possible and just try to keep things within the same finish family.

One of the huge problems this place has right now is a warm matte grayish violet as the kitchen accent and a an oddly cool yellow green semi gloss on the walls. Just choose warm or cool (I like warm, personally, especially for places with light walls) and stick to it. If you try to keep things cohesive you'll generally end up happy with the result!

Good luck! Post your afters for us!

> My husband and I are closing on our first home next month (yay!) and we know one of the first things to do is change the locks. A smartlock is very appealing but I'm having trouble deciding which one is best for us, because it seems the more I research the less certain I am. I also have a couple questions.

Ah, the perks of home ownership: feeling optimistic and creative, with a blank canvas in front of you. I envy you both!
Let me tell you why you should be considering the August Smart Lock brand of locks. I will post a small blurb on my contextual background and specific situation (which I posted elsewhere), then briefly mention the possible choices you have, and then respond to your list of requirements and setup,

 

 

PART I: CONTEXT

I am a renter; so obviously a lot of what I have to say may seem irrelevant. Seeing as I do not have a lot of creative control over the property, this would make smart locks tricky business. However, my landlord gave me permissions to replace the entire deadbolt, if I wanted. So, the first set of requirements were drafted as:

MUSTS:

• We have a dog that requires a dog walker to enter our house multiple times a week. The lock must allow this situation in as safe a manner as possible.
  
  
• We do not want to have to make copies of keys
  
  
• We do not want the dog walker (or any visitor) to HAVE TO download an app to get into the property
  
  WANTS:
  
  
• Smart home integrate-able
  
  
• Reliable and well rated
  
  
• Cheap
  
  
• Connect to it remotely to lock/unlock and monitor
  
  
• Z-Wave compatible (came later, when I realized I wanted to have a smart home integration environment)
  
  So, my research began, in earnest. It consumed me. Off the bat, the first names to pop up were August, Kwikset, Schlage and Yale.
  Of those, three had keypad options, which became a requirement soon after. Despite the perks of the Kwikset Kevo (the touch to open), I removed it from the list.
  Also, despite the fiance having an iPhone, I had an Android, so the lock had to have equal footing mobile phone ecosystem-independent. That removed things like Schlage Sense and other Homekit-only options.
  
  The final list:
  
  
• August
  
  
• Yale YRD226 (A really good Yale lock choosing guide here)
  
  
• Schlage Connect
  
  I did a ton of cross referencing, reviews websites, pros and cons, etc etc. And CONSISTENTLY, the August locks were ranked #1/#2/#3. I won't go into too much more detail on what those websites and reviews indicated, I trust you guys can do that research.
  
  But, in the end, the August locks were exactly what we needed, AND more. They were going to be the easiest to set up, and the best out of the gate. So we went with them, and haven't looked back since. My fiance, a "smart-home-always-listening" skeptic, casually told me yesterday how awesome she finds the smart lock.
  
   
  
   
  
  

  PART II: THE LINEUP
  

  
  So, what options to choose from?
  
  

• The August Smart Lock Pro (August | Amazon)
  
  Pros: Most up to date, improved tech under the hood, Z-Wave Plus compatible, Door Sense, most smart home integrations available, Auto lock/unlock
  
  Cons: Most expensive
  
  
• The August Smart Lock 3rd Generation (August | Amazon)
  
  Pros: Improved tech under the hood from the previous generation, Door Sense, Auto lock/unlock, traditional form factor, Cheaper
  
  Cons: No useful smart home integrations (missing homekit, alexa/echo, google home, z wave)
  
  To compare the above two, go here: http://august.com/keyless-entry/
  
  
• The August Smart Lock 2nd Generation (Amazon)
  
  Pros: Most cost effective ($125, but last week it was $109!) but still ranked #1 on MANY reputable websites (CNET | PCMag | etc), has built-in HomeKit capability, can be enhanced with additional devices
  
  Cons: Least impressive underlying tech, no Door Sense capability, no effective smart home integrations
  
   
  
  "Door Sense": The ability to detect "Door open" / "Door Closed" situation.
  
   
  
  An Aside : Enhancement Products
  
  
• The August Smart Keypad (August|Amazon)
  
  This keypad adds in the functionality that you'd expect:
  
  -- keyless code entry for guests (unlimited codes, managed via the app)
  
  -- Lock it with a button press
  
  -- Attachable for preferred outside entry
  
   
  
  
• The August Connect Wifi Bridge (August|Amazon)
  
  This device enables you to link your otherwise-bluetooth-range-only smart lock to your wifi, effectively allowing you to connect and manage the smart lock from ANYWHERE that you have network connectivity. With it, you can:
  
  -- Remotely lock/unlock your door
  
  -- Receive alerts on any actions taken on your door remotely
  
  -- have faster access to your lock as your app selects the best connection to use
  
   
  
  

  PART 2.5: BUNDLES/SALE
  

  
  Consider price-watching for sales; I saw the 2nd gen for, like $109...
  Personally, I jumped when the Smart Lock Pro + Wifi bridge bundle went on sale for $229 (same price as the lock itself), and the keypad was $55, on Amazon.
  
  

• August Smart Lock Pro + Connect Wifi: AMAZON $249 | AUGUST $249
  
  
• Sale price - August Smart lock 2nd Gen HomeKit: AMAZON $125 !!
  
  
• August Smart Lock 3rd Generation + Connect Wifi: AUGUST $199
  
   
  
   
  
  PART III : Why the August Locks work for your situation (below)

In no particular order, other than as they came to my mind:

Note that the term "Lighthouse" and "Base Station" are used interchangeably. I don't know which is technically more correct. I believe "Lighthouse" is the term given to the units by Valve, where as "Base Station" is the term used by HTC to describe the actual units provided - but this may be incorrect. I call them Lighthouses, but the Vive manual calls them Base Stations - these are the same things.

1. If you seem to be having issues, such as the front camera not working, tracking issues, controllers having issues pairing or staying paired, controllers only connect when physically plugged in over USB, etc, don't immediately assume you have a defective Vive - the Vive is very specific on USB controllers and the one in your PC might not be up to spec. Many of the early (and even some of the current) USB controllers are out of spec. Follow the advice in the SteamVR Troubleshooting Article and pick up the Inateck PCI Express USB controller. This thing is just over $20 on Amazon and has made a world of difference for many Vive users. Another tip is if you are having issues with USB 3.0 ports to try using USB 2.0 ports instead of 3.0, and vice versa. The Vive and the Linkbox are technically 3.0 compatible, but the 3-in-1 cable is only USB 2.0, so you won't get a benefit using 3.0 ports on your PC - in fact some users have better success with 2.0 ports. If you are having issues, try changing USB ports.
   
   
2. If you are having tracking issues, try removing everything remotely reflective from around your play area, one by one. Picture frames, mirrors, even shiny curtain rods might be having a huge impact on your tracking stability.
   
   
3. If you have two Vives and you are trying to use them in the same room, do not attempt to setup both pairs of lighthouses - the lighthouses simply send out a blast of IR light, and your Vives will become confused. You can use two Vives with just two lighthouses, but be careful not to smash into each other :). Your best bet is to setup your Vives in different rooms or hang blackout curtains between the two play areas to block the lighthouse signals for the other Vive- in which case it is okay to setup all four lighthouses, as long as each Vive can only see two of them.
   
   
4. Anything that shakes your walls will screw with your tracking. Some users reported they would lose tracking when an AC in another room would kick on. Be sure to mount your lighthouses in a stable area.
   
   
5. It is highly recommended to mount your lighthouses by screwing directly into the walls, but if you for some reason refuse to drill into the walls, some users have had success mounting the lighthouse to a block of wood, and then using something like Command Strips to mount the block of wood to the wall - this is not recommended, do this at your own risk, but some users are doing this.
   
   
6. Make sure your lighthouse mounts are screwed down TIGHT - even a small shift in their mounting position can screw up your tracking, and require rerunning the room setup.
   
   
7. When running the room setup, switch to advanced mode for a more accurate layout - in advanced mode, click the 'Edit' button on your desktop screen (as in, not in VR) to adjust the size, location, and direction of your 'play area'. In advanced mode you can more easily mark out funny shaped walls - personally I always run advanced mode. In regular mode you hold the trigger down and walk around the play area to define your chaperone boundaries - in advanced mode you walk around and pull the trigger to define the boundaries. Both modes are nice, but I recommend learning to define your play area in advanced mode since it is a bit easier to be precise and get the exact layout you want.
   
   
8. The Maximum play area size can be fudged a bit. If you are trying to use an area larger than 16ft 4in (5m) diagonal, you may be able to do so, but your tracking near the center will become less precise.
   
   
9. Each lighthouse should be mounted at least 6ft 6in (2m) off the ground. Higher is better up to a point, as it will reduce the chance you occlude one controller or the other, or occlude one lighthouse from the other (if using optical sync).
   
   
10. The lighthouses have a field of view of approximately 120° side to side and top to bottom, and should be tilted approximate 30° to 45° downwards towards the center of your play area.
    
    
11. It is okay to mount your lighthouses on their side, or even upside down. There is a mounting location on the back, and the bottom of the lighthouse. Each lighthouse has a built in Gyroscope so they know which way they are oriented. The creator of the lighthouse system has said himself that mounting orientation does not matter, though it may affect your play area limitations. You can mount them upside down and from the ceiling if you need to.
    
    
12. The lighthouses can be operated with or without the sync cable as they can communicate wirelessly, though without the sync cable they must be facing each other as they communicate optically. Without the sync cable, they must be on channels B and C. With the sync cable, they must be on channels A and C. You can press the button on the back of the lighthouse to switch channels, and the current channel is visible on the front of each lighthouse.
    
    My Vive did not come with a manual, though I preordered and they may be shipping them with manuals now - I had a quick start guide, but no manual - you can find the manual here where much more information about proper setup and usage can be found.
    
    Also - Welcome to the club :). Assuming your PC passes the SteamVR Performance Test, you will be very happy with VR :) There is nothing quite like being in true roomscale VR - it is amazingly fun.
    
    Edit: Also, I'll take this chance to plug my (currently free) VR utility application - stop reading now if you hate self plugs :). My app - OpenVRDesktopDisplayPortal allows you to clone a Desktop Window into a cross game VR Overlay. This Overlay can be placed into the world, attached to screen like a HUD, or attached to one of the controllers. Personally, even while playing games I like to leave Netflix on and game while I watch a movie or TV show - for most VR games there's just too much action going on though - but for some games, like Elite Dangerous or Euro Truck Sim, you have a lot of down time which can get quite boring. OpenVRDesktopDisplayPortal (OVRDDP for short) can be used to bring a desktop window, like a browser window, right into VR! You can read the Instructions here, or download it from this page. The current public version can only capture a 360p up to about 480p video at 24FPS or more, which is required for the video to look smooth - though my local source can clone my full monitor, 2560x1440, at 150FPS+ :). I'm in talks with Valve to get this on the Steam Store, but right now you can just resize your content to 360p and consider it a free demo :).
    
    There are quite a few people using OVRDDP to clone videos right into VR, there are also a few people cloning security cameras (watching the door for pizza deliveries :P) or baby monitors right into VR. You can also use it to clone browser windows into VR, which can be handy for games like Elite Dangerous where you can look up item prices online, or pretty much anything else you want.
    
    For content like Netflix or Hulu, you can full screen the video, target it with OVRDDP, then lock the aspect and resize the video to 360p - Even though it is supposed to be full screen, it can be resized to 360p - this lets you clone just the video instead of the full browser window. I gave the exact steps in this comment here.
    
    There are a few programs that can't be captured with the current public release - for Chrome, you must disable Hardware Acceleration. Firefox seems to work fine. I also heard that MPC-HC cannot be cloned, but VLC works great :). For VLC, you can use the fullscreen trick to clone just the video, or use the cropping settings labelled 13 in this picture to clone just the area of the video you want. For more information, see the Compatibility Article, though it's a bit outdated right now.
    
    Full HD support coming soon regardless of if I can post it on the steam store, but right now you can use the public release as a demo for what's to come.

Agreed on the full charge before riding it which will almost certainly take 6+ hours depending how much charge it has when it arrives.

The throttle has a variety of settings that make it work properly with the scooter (e.g. it knows how to properly assess distance ridden and battery power and so on). My Zero 10x came with a sheet spelling it out. As it happened, RevRides, who I bought it from, had already made the settings but something to check (once set correctly you never want to mess with them).

There are also a few user changeable settings for the ride you want such as how strong the regen braking is, how much torque it'll give on acceleration, miles or kilometer display and so on. I went with middle-of-the-road settings myself but this is all a matter of user preference so know they are there and fiddle with them till you get it all as you want. NOTE: I was encouraged to leave auto-pilot off till I became experienced with the scooter which I did.

Know that this is lightyears more powerful than the Lime scooter. Give it some respect when you first start riding. Leave it in Mode 1 (of three) "low" speed setting, only one motor active, Eco on and have a whirl. You'll get used to it quickly but the torque and acceleration can be surprising. Top speed too once you engage higher speed modes.

Also, and maybe this was just mine, but I find the brakes to be really touchy. Like they grab pretty hard even with a light touch which wants to throw me forward. No accidents or anything but at 60 miles ridden the brakes are still touchy on mine and a bit uncomfortable (read jerky when first applied). Just something to watch out for till you get used to it. I hope it is just a matter of breaking them in some more and/or getting more used to modulating them properly. That or perhaps my local bike shop can lighten them up a bit (bicycle brakes so they are familiar with them).

I have found no reason to carry a charger with me. These charge up pretty slowly so charging on the go won't get you much compared to some smaller scooters. Leave a charger at the office and one at home and you should be fine. It has a pretty long range so should be good for most jaunts on a single charge. Of course YMMV depending on your needs and use.

As for locking it up realize you are parking $1500 on the street and this will catch people's eyes. Cable locks are close to worthless (they can be gotten through with a hand-held, concealable tool in seconds). After much looking and asking I settled on Master Lock Cuffs. I clamp one end to the stem, below the control cables and the other to the bike rack. It will stop anyone unless they go at it with an angle grinder (which some might but not likely in public during the day). I am getting a handlebar bag where I will carry it but till then they are fine in my backpack (a little heavy but no biggie). Nothing is perfect but these are pretty good.

Enjoy!

First, I gotta say. I love your house. The stairway is amazing. The rooms are awesome. Second, I have to warn you that I'm horrible with spacing/bullet points.

This is all my own opinion btw. I’m not an interior designer/decorator. Read at your own risk.

I’m not sure whether you like traditional or modern style, but I think with this kind of home, you should go with “traditional décor”. Pintrest that stuff. It’s great. Tldr is that it’s new and old décor to look awesome. OR, even go with the style of this Redditor: http://imgur.com/a/AzALP

1. Slap a new coat of white on the ceilings. I know you like it, but you can see that they tried to fix the border with semi-gloss paint in the picture, and it kind of takes away from the actual design. I think the ceiling designs look great in the rooms, but the living room (especially around the fireplace) is another story.
   
   
   
2. Will probably be shanked for taking away the traditional appeal, but paint all the baseboards, crown molding, and window paneling white. It would look cleaner to be honest. (Here’s an example for the teal room: http://i.imgur.com/dcBAUmG.png More on the teal room, I would probably do what I could to knock off those little things http://i.imgur.com/bsMwlEa.png (not sure what they’re called). If it’s in the budget, I’d remove the fireplace. (Does it actually work? It doesn’t really bring any visual appeal?) Paint the doors white and get new outlets.)
   
   
3. Replace/clean and spray paint the vents (by the stairs in the living room) to white. The beige color makes it look really outdated/dirty.
   
   
   
4. Repaint the walls for sure. I would go with a neutral taupe/grey, something gentle. But since you like glitz, I’d probably do that thing that people do where there’s an accent wall.
   
   
5. It would probably be a little difficult (possibly tearing out the whole floor) to move a kitchen since the plumbing is already there for that and the bathroom as well. It could be super expensive as well.
   However, cheaply/rental, what I would do for the kitchen is:
   Paint the cabinets a new color. Add new hardware. Repaint that wallpaper thing. You could put contact paper over the countertops as a temporary fix. (Youtube it. Shit is awesome.)
   
   
6. Finally, tear down those curtains in the back.
   
   Please.
   
   Also, your layout reminded me of this post: http://imgur.com/a/5URyz
   Maybe you could get some ideas off of it?
   

Thanks! I'll look into BikeLink!

Yes, it's both the weight and the dimensions. The Dart has a really spacious deck. Nice for riding, a bit awkward for maneuvering. I hear ewheels is coming out with trolley wheels soon. That may help a bit, but I still think it's too large to take in most places. It's fine for stairs at home --> to work, though. Certainly not something I'll be stashing under the table at a restaurant like I did with the Glion.

Wheels are mostly covered, so locking through them is out with any serious lock. I got StreetCuffs based on somebody's recommendation here, and I think they'll work out well enough. I think the best place to lock will be around the little neck between the deck and the actual pole, right around where the foot pedal to fold is. If I fold it up, it would be impossible to even unfold the thing with the cuffs on. A U-Lock could work in this area as well.


These are the StreetCuffs: https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-Street-9-Hardened-8290DPS/dp/B0009V1WQQ/

I didn't get the rapid charger. It does take awhile to charge, but so far the battery has lasted as much as I've needed it to in a day and I'm content to just let it charge overnight.

Good luck with whatever you choose! I really do love the Dart - if you can find a way to live around the size, it is a fantastic ride for the price!

Hey everyone! Thanks for the nice comments. Here is the process. I’m posting exactly what I used but obviously brand or material or process replacements can be made:

Materials:
4” x 4” x 8’ fence posts (triangles)
1” x 3” x 8’ pine slats (frame)
3/4” Hardwood composite plywood cut to size Home Depot will do this for you (maple, birch, etc)
Gorilla wood glue
Latex house paint samples of various colors (blue, purple, red, yellow, black, white)
Paint brushes
WATER-BASED aerosol polyurethane spray - satin
Wood stain for frame (dark walnut)
Brad nails (for frame)
Heavy duty hanging kit

Tools:
Table saw (with angled blade)
Miter saw
Circular saw
Brad nailer

Step 1 PUSHA PUSHA: Turn the 4” x 4” x 8’ fence posts from a rectangular prism to a triangle prism using the table saw. We’re going for perfect equilateral triangles here, so set your table saw to a 30 degree angle. Push the post through (I did this in smaller pieces). On the second pass, turn it around and get the other side of the triangle. And BOOM, you have a equilateral triangular loaf or log or prism or whatever. Do the rest of the 4” x 4” x 8’ fence posts. Looks like this:

[ ] -> [ ‘ \’] -> [‘/\’] -> /\

Step 2 CHOPPA CHOPPA: Use the miter saw to slice the triangle loaves into triangle slices. I didn’t use a guide for this (and I don’t think you should either) to get triangles of varying thicknesses. This added a little sumthin sumthin to the finished product and I dig it. Just remember that your finished product is going to hang on a wall, so don’t make your standard thickness ultra thick or the finished piece will be heavy af. A lot of my smallest triangles were only 1/4” at most, and I made the variety of bigger ones based off of that.

Step 3. CENTERING: Find the center of your plywood sheet using a t-square or whatever else is accurate. MAKE SURE YOU DON’T MESS THIS UP. You will love yourself a lot more later on if this is absolutely correct and spot on.

Step 4 PLACING: Take all of your triangles and place them where you want them. I started shallower in the middle with less variance, and used the chunkier ones with more variance towards the outside. Also sand any rough edges so they fit better.

Picture

Step 5 PAINTING: Now you need to paint Every. Single. Triangle. This is a painstaking process; I won’t lie. I started with pure white, and then ever so slightly ramped up the color as I went along. Take the pieces off, paint them, let them dry, then place them back. I tried to get a little funkier as I worked my way out, but tried not to deviate too far from the color palette. That being said, DON’T BE AFRAID TO RISK SOME WEIRD COLORS. I honestly didn’t think the pink, or aqua, or maroon would work in this, but I think those colors add a lil sumthin sumthin. Also, try not to paint too many of the same color. Add a splash of something to each triangle to change the color. Once all of your pieces are painted and placed back on the plywood, give yourself a pat on the back, and then switcheroo anything that you think needs switching.

^maybe invite some friends over for this step. It’s daunting even for two people.

Picture

Step 6 GLUEING: We found the best way to do this, while not completely messing up the layout, was to do it line by line from the inside out. This is to ensure that you don’t box yourself in (since slight inaccuracies in the triangles are gonna happen and everything won’t line up perfectly perfect). We used the leftover wood to hold the triangles in their row order while we put the glue down, and then just placed the triangles back where they went. Just use your head here and try to be as accurate as possible. Also remember to not use a ton of glue, or you’re gonna have a huge mess. A nice thin layer will be fine. Let everything dry.

Step 7 TRIMMING: Unless you’re a magician, you’re gonna have triangles hanging over the side of your plywood (or maybe you didn’t buy enough fence posts and you already returned your table saw to Home Depot so you couldn’t make any more triangles so you just had to settle for a slightly smaller product than you wanted WHICH IS FINE) Anyways, use the circular saw to trim off the excess triangles around the edges. Try to keep your lines straight here or your frame is not gonna fit well. Use this if you’re loaded.

Step 8 FRAMING: Measure your frame wood against the now-trimmed plywood. Use the miter saw to cut the 45 degree angle needed for the pieces to line up. After cutting, stain the frame pieces and let dry. Lightly glue the piece onto the plywood and brad nail into place (into the plywood, not the triangles)

Step 9 FINISHING: Use compressed air or a brush to get rid of as much dust and sawdust as possible. Then use the polyurethane aerosol spray to give the whole thing a coat. Don’t forget the frame too. Wait about an hour and then repeat. Repeat until you use the can up.

Step 10 HANGING: Center the hanger on the back of the plywood and screw into place. Then screw the other cleat onto the wall making sure you hit some studs for strength. Bask in the glow of your new art.

AND THEN YOU’RE DONE. Don’t be intimidated by the novel of instructions I’ve written. If you are intimidated (or lazy) go buy a piece from the artist that inspired this: Michalovic Wood Art

Sorry if the format sucks; I’m on mobile.

Here's what you asked for

Hub:
Wink Hub 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KW8WGZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_D2e7ybH4AEXCA

Bulbs:
Hue White Ambiance https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ESW34RQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_B0e7ybX5B7KF0

Lock:
August Smart Lock (2nd Gen) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0168IXNZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_R3e7ybSK95NFG

Outlets:
GE Z-Wave Wireless Control Duplex Receptacle Outlet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_04e7ybQXPB1TX

Based on what you said about a nice slick UI I think the Wink 2 wins that battle over a Samsung Smart Things hub. Plus if you get into adding shades Lutron makes a nice z wave shade called the Serena and the Wink 2 can operate Lutron devices without needing another hub. It's not as customizable as Smart Things, but I think it works well and has good support behind it.

The Hue Ambiance bulbs are nice, does tons of white light shades only so it fits your requirements there. You will need a Hue bridge, but that integrates with the Wink 2 nicely.

If you can get the August lock with Z-wave functionality I'd go with that over what I linked because I think the normal August is pretty shit, but it's the only lock I know of where you can assign one time use codes or time sensitive ones. Getting the normal (Bluetooth) August lock online requires the August Connect and its a buggy piece of shit that barely works even with the best connection and very close to the lock. Maybe software will\has fixed it but in my prior experience with it I was very not impressed. You can also add a keypad to the August on the secured side of the door. All those extras add up though, but you can do everything you said was required with the August that I believe no other lock can do.

The outlets are pretty self explanatory, work off Z-wave and only one plug is automated the other is always on.

Alexa can integrate with everything I listed, all you need to do is give everything a unique name and have her find the smart home devices and you can give simple commands like, "Alexa turn off kitchen light" and it'll do it.

You could definitely get more complicated setups but all of these things will work together, you could even pair your Ecobee with the Wink 2 if you wanted to.

The biggest things in our house were the things that didn't just make it look nicer, but also were a functional upgrade.

We got a new fridge/microwave/dishwasher and range (uhh, because they all had to match - we only NEEDED the fridge and microwave). The benefit is that they look great (GE Slate), and the fridge is Energy Star (besides AC, it's the biggest power draw in the house), the dishwasher is stainless inside and uses only... I think it's 4 gallons to do a full cycle and the acid test was getting the little tea infuser tongs spotless!

Replace boring round door knobs with brushed nickel door HANDLES. You don't really notice it directly, but it just freshens up the inside.

Replace yellowing and ugly outlet and switch plates. Or replace them all with Decora and probably use white instead of almond.

We also replaced a few of the old boob lights in closets and hallways with LED fixtures that put out a great and pleasant light.

No more dark and depressing closets, pantries and laundry rooms!

In the kitchen, adding knobs/handles to the doors is a huge improvement. Slow-close hinges is also a must.

I like the 'flush' (no 'open' ends) handles on anything below the counter so they don't catch and rip my pants. All my shorts suffer from catching pockets or belt loops on the bar style handles. Regardless of how convenient they are to hang towels from.



EDIT: We also really like using the IKEA picture ledges to put pictures up. We staggered a few of them for a more interesting look, but the main thing is that it avoids multiple holes in the wall to hang pictures from.

We can easily rearrange pictures by moving them by size or topic etc. on the ledges to achieve a different look.

Another thing I'm a pretty big fan of is keeping the house mostly painted very light/white colors and then decorate with colorful drapes, blinds and furniture. It's a lot easier to change the theme by just a new couch cover, drapes and sheets on the bed than to repaint a room because you're tired of the color.

I've come into this late and don't know if anyone's suggested these things yet, but just in case they haven't been I'll go ahead.

I'm glad to hear you've called the police and that they'll be patrolling your area more. In the meantime, you can buy a door brace to ensure your door stays shut while you're home, and pepper spray to keep by your bed. I would also recommend purchasing a pepper spray to keep on your key ring so that you have something on your when you are walking to and from your car.

You could also buy a taser gun, but I have no personal experience with them and could not vouch for them personally like I can for a door jam and pepper spray.

I'm sorry you're going through this. It's really scary to not feel safe, especially in your home, which should be a source of comfort for you. Take steps to make yourself feel better protected, and continue to call the police if anything else occurs. Do NOT hesitate to call them. I hope this situation gets taken care of quickly for you.

You can secure the door with “defend security.” It’s really secure but not functional if you need to open the door from the outside. But very secure if you just need the door to stay locked.

This is what I use because my toddler could unlock the door and deadbolt. It was easy to install. Had a minor issue of the door being too snug but I eventually figured it out.

FYI, I am not at all knowledgeable in this area. Just letting you know what I did and what worked for me in my situation. Good luck!

Defender Security

They are the worst, these people!

Perhaps replacing the lock right now but keeping the current lock to reinstall once you move would help? That way you have a locked door between you but she can't whine about her key not working because the lock still exists and will be put back in place once the space is hers to do with as she likes.

You need a safe space where these people can't reach you. In addition to chains, maybe one of these? I had a hotel room with something like this once and even though I was staying alone, I felt really secure.

Honestly I would probably add this type of product to all of my doors and windows and install Nest or Ring cameras at each entrance, if that's affordable. Maybe even one pointing at her workshop so you can see whether she's hanging around trying to peek at you, Spy vs Spy-style. 🙂

I have to assume the cost of a set of Best locks can be offset either by getting a bulk/commercial account deal of some kind, or simply through the interchangeability of the cores meaning the maintenance costs offset very quickly compared to having to fully replace entire less expensive locks to replace a key.

But if you only need one padlock for normal security usage, it can be kinda hard to justify costs like that. The larger all-steel American padlocks tend to be very good value, but I feel like I should give a shout-out to the A5360 it's slightly pricier but has a fully shrouded shackle, something I consider a very valuable security feature.

Also, the Abus Rock is a comparably priced and very similar padlock with a slightly better core in it.

Thanks!

The display doesn't get any direct (or really, indirect) exposure to sunlight. There's a window facing the case, but it's always completely blocked with cellular blinds, so no sunlight.

I just now did a bit of research after you asked, and it does seem like there is still some longterm risk with other indirect sources of UV light. This article is pretty informative:

https://www.cardboardconnection.com/ultra-pro-uv-protection-guide

One option seems to be the UV rated holders. But for graded cards in slabs, the UV protected holders obv won't work, so perhaps something like this could work as well:

https://www.amazon.com/Clear-Protection-Window-Film-Wide/dp/B004JAW3KW

Any ideas or insight on how we can better protect from light exposure?

I have a schlage connect on a back door. It's what we use now to give "others" (pet sitter, contractor, family members, etc) who may need access to our house, either for short term or ongoing. It's a keypad deadbolt and we can set up codes for each individual.

I'm not sure of the limit on codes, but it's upwards of 20. I don't know if you can set up the codes for certain time frames, I haven't seen anything like that but that doesn't mean it's not there. You can delete or add codes at anytime even from mobile though. It works with smart things and wink for sure, probably others (it's z-wave) and it's alexa compatible.

You can view it's status and history once you link it to your system. I can know at a glance whether my back door is locked or unlocked and the history will tell me WHEN it was last locked/unlocked and by what code. There's notifications you can set up that will push alert you for various things but I haven't used those yet myself. Had it 1.5 years now and we're very happy with it.

Here's the exact one that I have:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AGK9KUU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hope you find something that suits your needs!

this is a dope space! i'd love spend a year or two in japan someday; what's the rent for a place like this?

you can definitely still hang stuff without nails or thumbtacks; look into some heavy-duty 3M strips like this. maybe focus on finding lighter frames to ensure everything stays up.

other than that, get some standing shelves and fill them with cool/weird/interesting knick knacks. idk what the thrifting/antiquing scene is like in Nihon, but that's an easy way to find cool, vintage stuff to display. my personal favorites are old cameras, telephones, radios, etc.

Does your apparent door open to an inside common area like a lobby or hallway?

http://codes.ohio.gov/orc/3781.103

3781.103 Deadbolt locks or equivalent security locking device for swinging exit doors.
The Ohio board of building standards shall adopt, pursuant to division (A) of section 3781.10 of the Revised Code, a rule requiring that the swinging exit door for each unit in an apartment building or other multi-unit dwelling that is subject to the rules authorized by division (A) of such section be equipped with a deadbolt or equivalent security locking device complying with standards prescribed by the board. The rule shall be applied to all such apartment buildings and other multi-unit dwellings for which plans are approved pursuant to section 3791.04 of the Revised Code.

Effective Date: 09-05-1975.

This only applies to the swinging exit door from the lobby to the outside world.

There is nothing that pertains to individual apartment doors.

Personally, we use these even though we have deadbolts.

Good luck!

Maybe off topic but since we are speaking on home security it kinda fits. I was a residential door installer for years. I have replaced countless doors I to people's homes. You would not believe how many doors I've seen installed with 1 inch screws. Check and replace these screws with 3 inch screws. They are usually long enough to hit the framing of the house and add strength. Also many doors do not have deadbolts so the cheapest and easiest solution to this I have found is an amazon product. Very easy to Install with a drill and feels very sturdy. It can only be locked from the inside how ever so best use is for a door in a garage or back door.

Defender Security Satin Nickel U 10827 Door Reinforcement Lock - Add Extra, High Security to your Home and Prevent Unauthorized Entry - 3" Stop, Aluminum Construction Finish, 3" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D2K367Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PMTUDbGP65SPB

Thanks for this nice idea. I saw 1/2 cleat options and felt it was not so secure, given that mostly there will be down the wall force & pull away from wall force, but occasionally there might be some swing / ing that needs to secured/ locked against.

I did not like this - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_cleat

But I do like this - Maybe need something that can manage more weight? or 2 of them?

200 lb
http://www.homedepot.com/p/OOK-Hangman-200-lb-French-Cleat-Picture-Hanger-with-Wall-Dog-Mounting-Screws-55316/202341629

300 lb
http://www.amazon.com/Hangman-Heavy-Duty-Mirror-Picture-Hanger/dp/B000IU12J0/ref=pd_sim_60_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=31QnKNkTiFL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=03XP0J634798ZRZNNT0Y

300 lb
http://www.amazon.com/Hangman-Products-30-Inch-Heavy-Duty-Anchorless/dp/B000VWAYQC/ref=pd_sim_60_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=313E3-enG9L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=17D6D768YYQ21V0RA6QF

Can you share some examples that would be more secure like the second one?

What do multi cleats look like?

PS: Could you also suggest some other "locking mechanisms" that could Augment the cleats and prevent unintentional dismount.

or maybe be alternatives to cleats?

The cosmetic parts of my keezer are pretty much glued on, so drilling anything into it was a no go. My drip tray sits on a glued on piece of trim that is about halfway up (it wraps around the whole thing). I just used those damage free picture hangers to keep it attached.

I would trust just about any amount of weight I can fit on it honestly (e.g. multiple full growlers). Each strip holds up to 16 lbs apparently, I use 4 of them. It also sits on the "crossbar" trim.

It also has a huge plus because it is very easy to take the whole thing off to wash. Only cosmetic downside is you can see thing picture hangers slightly if you look at it from an angle.

You probably need permission, but this door armor kit is great:

https://www.amazon.com/Door-Armor-MAX-Combo-Set/dp/B008N3QW4O


For added security, this is a quick and easy install as well:
https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-Products-10827-Reinforcement-Construction/dp/B00D2K367Y/ref=sr_1_1?s=hardware&ie=UTF8&qid=1472977974&sr=1-1&refinements=p_4%3APrime-Line+Products

You can get a chain lock that has a key lock in it, that you can lock and unlock from either side of the door. It's not a replacement for a deadbolt or anything, but it will give shifty landlords a moment's pause, at least. A product I would not have known about if not for the slumlords at CLV!

Do go to the landlord-tenant board -- they are pleasant to deal with and generally effective. You can also try bylaw services -- "By-law provisions concerning zoning, business licences, and the maintenance and upkeep of existing buildings, including rental properties, are the responsibility of the City’s By-law Services Branch Community and Protection Services Department." It sounds like the place is run-down enough that it'd arouse their interests.

>(thank goodness with my big dog)

Good puppy.

>He is lucky he was a) not shot and b) not mauled.

Yes. Yes he is.

I can only give practical advice and someone else will come along with possibilities shortly. A cheap way to get some piece of mind? (I have a front door that will only lock the deadbolt with some begging and pleading and some kind of secret handshake that I haven't learned) Get a door brace until you can get a locksmith out to fix your deadbolt. There are a bunch available. You can probably find one at a local hardware store. I'm not recommending this one specifically - I'm just starting with search terms and ideas that may help you sleep.

You can call a locksmith and have them fight with your deadbolt. It may be an easy fix.

There are several people on here who are police officers who will probably tell you that if they know all they need to know they won't put you through a really in-depth interview.

There are also self defense classes available and if you call the local police department and tell them who you are and what happened they may have some other ideas/resources as well.

Hug your puppy for us and I'm sorry this happened to you.

I'm not sure about the installation of the window film. I live in an apartment, so the option isn't even on the board for me. I hear it can be somewhat expensive, though.

As far as the locks go, most doors in the US come with a standard size deadbolt hole drilled out so that you can use any brand you want and it will still fit. If your door does not have this already drilled out, you should be able to find out the correct measurements online and drill the door yourself (if it's a wooden door).

As far as the gun-proof lock goes, standard deadbolts will be able to hold up against handgun shots. However, shotgun slugs and hunting rifle rounds will likely compromise the lock. (As seen on MythBusters: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0852842/synopsis).

It's good to have a deadbolt that is internal only as well. One that can only be locked & unlocked from the inside. That may provide some additional protection against being shot out with a shotgun slug.

If that's something you need to worry about, don't forget that a deadbolt isn't the only way to secure a door when you're home. Anything that prevents the door from opening will help:

• http://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-265DCCSEN-Dual-Function-Security/dp/B0002YUX8I/
  
• http://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-Products-10827-Blocker-Nickel/dp/B00D2K367Y/
  
• http://www.amazon.com/Door-Jammer-Portable-Security-Device/dp/B00BZB97AM/
  
• http://www.amazon.com/Doorricade-107250-Door-Bar/dp/B007R6CALC/
  
  These seem like better options than a slug-proof lock due to price alone. I can't imagine how much such a lock would cost that would seal your door like a vault. These provide the same amount of protection without being cost-prohibitive.

Short answer: You need to move, this could escalate to violence including a murder. If taking a job in another state can keep everyone in your household alive then it is an action you need to seriously consider.

If for whatever reason you decide to stay then read on.

If you are the target then typical criminal deterrence will not be effective.

Cameras are good for collecting evidence for police, without evidence police won't do anything. Their job is to arrest criminals after they have committed a crime not protect you from a future crime.

You need to ensure the entries to your house are hardened, there are many resources online on how to harden your doors and windows. Here is a simple guide from the sidebar that has some good ideas: https://www.artofmanliness.com/2015/04/22/complete-guide-to-home-security/ . I personally have a stronger strike plate with 3" screws and a door jam on my external doors.

None of this protects you from someone burning your house down while you are inside. You need good fire detection and quality fire extinguishers as well as methods to escape through windows on upper floors is necessary. Create an escape plan for multiple scenarios and ensure your family does a regular walkthrough and everyone knows it by heart. Beware that the fire may be used to lure you outside to attack you with violence when you are no longer protected by the walls of your home. This is a fairly common carjacking technique where the criminals cause a small fender bender and when the person gets out of the car they steal it with violence or the threat of violence. I briefly cover personal protection below but you must be aware of that tactic so you can be prepared if that is the scenario you find yourself in

If you are the target then you need to take your personal protection and the protection of your family very seriously. Don't take this responsibility alone, your gf and her kids need to up their awareness. If something seems out of place do not ignore it, mitigate your risk by removing yourself/family from the danger that could surround that abnormality.

You also need a means to protect yourself if this harasser gets violent with you or your family. I'm a firearms person and live in Nevada where I can fairly easily obtain a concealed firearms permit. Where you live you may not be able to legally carry outside your home. A firearm and training are the best force multipliers civilians can use to defend themselves against unknown threats (we don't what this person is capable of, what tools he will use, or if he is acting alone). Personally, I believe an 5.56mm AR-15 rifle is the best home defense tool and a 9mm handgun is the best on person defense tool. You mentioned your girlfriend has 2 kids, regardless of age you must be 100% committed to ensuring any firearms you bring into a house with kids is behind a lock any time it is not on your person. In your situation I would recommend you have a handgun on your hip at all times you are awake. If you need more help with fireams advice/tactics/resources I can help you.

If firearms are not right choice for you (they aren't if you can't be 100% committed to ensuring it is impossible for the kids to get access) there are other less effective tools. I prefer pepper spray and carry it in addition to a firearm. Get some small canisters for on body carry and some of these larger canisters for in the home. Understand that when you deploy the spray everyone will be impacted and it will only buy some time to escape. I do not recommend stun guns as they are inconsistent and many people recover fairly quickly when they are done riding the lightning. Knives are effective at creating fatal wounds but not effective at stopping threats. A wounded attacker can still inflict damage for minutes after receiving a fatal stab wound. So I would not recommend those unless you have some knife defense proficiency already. Striking tools like batons and baseball bats can be effective medium range tools but can also be used against you if you are disarmed and rarely incapacitate in a single swing. These tools are only to ensure you and your household survive in the event you have to fight for your life, awareness and avoiding the fight is your most effective tool and only if your awareness fails should you have to resort to your fighting tools.

Hopefully your cameras can catch this individual doing something significant enough that the police will get involved and remove them from the general public. You can't depend on that though and have to have a layered approach to ensuring the safety of yourself and everyone in your household. Good luck!

edit: my phone bugged and I had to finish this from my computer, sorry for the originally cut off response.

If you felt pretty comfortable with that Orange Belt Abus, maybe you should try a $12 green belt: Abus Titalium 80Ti. I have a couple of these and they are enjoyable picks.

Kinda depends on your goals though. I feel like I've been recommending this way too much lately, but a Sparrows Revolver would probably be an incredible training lock right now for getting incrementally better at security pins. If you master the Revolver with a difficult pin load out, it would be easy to graduate to the blue American 1100s.

I have the august smart lock and have been very happy with it. I chose that over the others for a few reasons

Pros:

• You can't see it from the outside. So someone who doesn't know the house, would not necessarily know there is a smart lock there. There was a big flurry of articles a few months back that many are hackable. I'm not sure of august vs. the others, but at least its not obvious.
  
• I can send a key to the nanny, dog walker, cleaner, repairman, (insert service here) via the phone and limit when they can be in the house. This was helpful when watching our pets while we were on vacation, since I could enable the lock daily from noon - 1pm just for the sitter.
  
• I get alerts anytime the door is opened. So I know when people are going in/out of the house.
  
  Cons
  
  
• The alignment on the lock is finicky. Often some family members don't put the door in the right position so the lock can spin endlessly.
  
• Which leads to the batteries have to be replaced. Its bluetooth LE, so it doesn't use a lot for connectivity, but a motor is still a motor.
  
• Lastly (and specific to august), not a lot of people know the service. I've sent keys to family members who never activate because they don't want another app on their phone just for my house (versus its easy just to add another key on a keychain). If you have a keypad, this might not be relevant.

Maybe you could use a couple command strips to stick it on! That way there's no holes, but it will help secure it a bit.
Looking at your picture it looks like you have a hard floor which probably helps. I have carpet which makes it a little less stable.

I bought a couple of kits online and have been learning how everything works and going from there. Are you interested in learning from the ground up? Or are you more specifically trying to complete 1 or 2 projects and be done?

Edit: https://www.raspberrypi.org/blog/turn-your-pi-into-a-low-cost-hd-surveillance-cam/

This page talks about making a low cost security camera using the Raspberry Pi and camera module, which is motion activated using the camera. Here is the link to the actual project. https://www.codeproject.com/articles/665518/raspberry-pi-as-low-cost-hd-surveillance-camera.


Unlocking a door would probably be a little complicated. You'd need a physical device that can move the lock, so servos and whatever else, which I don't know much of anything about. Something would have to move, though. You'd also have to trust the security of that door. I had considered buying one of these https://www.amazon.com/August-Smart-Lock-Latest-Generation/dp/B0168IXNZQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1482266351&sr=8-2&keywords=smart+door+lock , but I read that they sometimes unlock themselves randomly. I imagine the Raspberry Pi would have it's own security vulnerabilities for something as important as a lock.

However, if you weren't worried about being absolutely secure. You could most likely purchase something along these lines that you would activate with some code.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/12V-Electronic-Door-Lock-Rfid-Access-Control-for-Cabinet-Drawer-hangslot-met-nummer-verrous-combination-locks/32639649761.html?ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_2_10065_10068_10084_10083_10080_10082_10081_10060_10061_10062_10056_10055_10054_10059_10099_10078_10079_427_10073_10103_10102_10096_10052_10050_10051,searchweb201603_2&btsid=6a3e15ec-5155-4fa9-a461-4103a4d08e4d

Editedit: That last link says it's 12V, you'd probably need some sort of power converter for it as I don't think the Raspberry Pi can do that.

You could put things like http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/clear-self-stick-rubber-pads-452045/ http://www.amazon.com/3M-754ES-12-Piece-Self-Stick-0-16-Inch/dp/B001QCXXWS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1290449459&sr=8-1 or http://www.amazon.com/Waxman-Style-Gripper-4-Inch-5-Inch/dp/B000SL0KJM/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1290449484&sr=8-7 around the inside of the box. They should cushion the Plexiglas and unless you're putting a LOT of wear on them, stay in place for quite some time. Depending on the self-adhesive on the rubber padding, you might have better luck trying to find one that doesn't have self-adhesive on it, and using super glue or something similar to hold them on firmer.

I'll second the American 1100, but add the Abus 80ti/50 to that list -- good tolerance, six pins with a serrated, four spools, and a T-pin, and they're only ~$12. Officially they're green belt locks, but I think they hold their own against a number of the blue belt locks.

In addition to the Master 410 LOTO, you also might consider looking for a PacLock PL410-Pro (~$16), which is basically a 7-pin version with better tolerances. They're available online, but some Home Depots are starting to stock them.

Ace Hardware stores typically carry some decent 1.5" brass padlocks made for them by Brinks -- they're generally cheap and are loaded with spools. Sometimes you can even find an A527, which is a clone of the American Lock 700.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Command-17201-4pk-Medium-Picture-Hanging/dp/B004051TE2/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=command+strips+medium&qid=1558556800&s=diy&sr=1-3

Nice and clean, cheap and easy, no fussing about with tripods etc. Easy to tilt the camera down or up a bit when needed, and easy enough to remove the camera from the wall then stick back on again.

I'd never seen this product until I moved to Japan... so.... here's my pitch....


Do you hate changing the toilet paper rolls? do you just use the old cardboard roll still on the roll holder as a simple "shelf" for the new roll of TP? If so, you need this product. Hi, "REDHEAD_FUCK_ME" here for EZ load Toilet Paper Holder This product practically sells itself. I know what you're thinking... I've got $50 to spend and I want to improve my life. I under stand that, so many people do, and now here's your chance to do exactly that and spend less than half of your budget doing so.

Tired of those empty carboard toilet paper rolls hanging around your bathroom? Tired of dealing with that annoying spring-loaded metal or plastic tube that just seem to cooperate? Aren't you tired of the kids loading the TP onto the holder the wrong way? THE SOLUTION IS HERE.

The EZ-load Toilet roll holder uses top secret proprietary technology from the nation that brought you manga porn and the smart toilet! The sturdy ballistic composite EZ loader simply mounts to the wall right where your old TP roll holder was. Toss that old garbage away! The new EZ loader has two spring fed tabs that pop down and hold the TP roll securely, while allowing easy removal. To insert a new roll, push the roll up from the bottom and the tabs lock in place effortlessly. To remove the empty cardboard tube, grab the tube and simply pull up, and it pops right off.

Changing toilet paper has NEVER been THIS EASY. Do you have young children, or does grandma live at home now? EZ Load Toilet Roll Holder is perfect for them! Lazy-ass entitled children now might give just enough of a shit to change the roll themselves before yelling at you, slamming their door and playing minecraft all night. Grandma's weak-ass arthritic hands can even change the TP roll! If only she could still wipe, too!

Call now and we will include the "annoying flap cover" that you'll rip off and throw away once you discover it's a useless addition tacked on so that this ad makes it sound like you're getting more for your money.

ORDER NOW!

ah, good good. Sorry if it seemed patronizing, I just never really know what anyone's knowledge/experience is with this stuff, if any. Seems like you know what you're doing though.

How are the rubber feet on the underside? if they've gon missing, that can cause the machine to sit too low on the surface, not allowing enough airflow underneath. Maybe adding some thicker feet like these sticky ones would help, or suggest a "extended battery" like this (not that specific one, just an example), those kinda prop up the back, allowing for better airflow when the cooling pad isn't around.

In order from my progression:

Master 140

Brinks

Abus

American

Now it's a fairly large jump from brinks to abus so I recommend getting a few more brinks and masters first. Just get a different model with "higher" security every time until you think you are up for it.

I pulled these links off amazon for pictures and whatnot, I'm sure you can get a better deal anywhere so do some searching before you buy.

Edit: Forgot to mention the helpful sidebar!

I have a Schlage BE469 and have it hooked up to the house Wifi via a Wink Hub 2 - super easy to set up, and administer it remotely with Wink's phone app (provision new codes, delete old codes, etc.). I have "permanent" codes for myself, my cleaner, etc. It also has an activity log so I know when guests arrive and depart (or any other time they lock/unlock the door). I also know how long my cleaner spent at the property.

I like the Schlage lock over the August because of the built-in keypad.

​

https://www.amazon.com/ABUS-83CS-55-300-1-4375-Inch-Zero-Bitted/dp/B009S5Y69E/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542566151&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=abus+83cs&dpPl=1&dpID=41-ZU7wirTL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/American-Lock-A5300D-Steel-Padlock/dp/B0013GBQVM/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1542566304&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=a5300d&dpPl=1&dpID=41H%2B3A1dyJL&ref=plSrch

The Abus is the better lock but I would recommend having it set to a key (its zero bitted which means it opens with an uncut blank) but that could add $10-$20). Some locksmiths will rekey for free if you buy through them though.

Yellow is a terrible idea. It will look dingy next to the grey-ish cabinets. I would either freshen the White on the walls or do a deeper medium grey.

Remove the curtain above the sink. Find a more modern pattern or go with white blinds with wide slats. If you want a pop of color, a solid bright yellow, blue or green would look nice in curtains.

Get faux marble appliqué for the counter tops.
(Example: Marble Wallpaper Granite Paper for Old Furniture Self Adhesive and Removable Cover Surfaces 17.71 inch x 78inch Marble Paper Peel and Stick Easy to Apply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0777LR4ZX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3IFRDbYAN9Y12)

Switch out the cabinet knobs for something more modern.
(Example: Cosmas 305-030SN Satin Nickel Cabinet Hardware Euro Style Bar Handle Pull - 3" Hole Centers, 25 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D0KWBJ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UJFRDbREHKEAD)

Today I ordered a couple locks from Amazon that are pretty cheap. The Abus 80TI/50 (green belt) is $13.11 right now.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00G7P3FYA/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1520483379&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Abus

I also ordered an American 1106 (blue belt) for $9.87

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015MG09E8/ref=pd_aw_fbt_60_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YDTCDD4HSFGP6KAZBZ5H

I wanted to get a few locks that are progressively harder to practice on and learn more about security pins, found good prices on these and couldn't pass them up.

That's really scary. I'm glad your dog alerted you! I'd follow up with a call to the police department. Others have great suggestions - I'd also recommend these door locks that we have: Defender Security U 10827 Door Reinforcement Lock - Add Extra, High Security to Your Home and Prevent Unauthorized Entry - 3" Stop, Aluminum Construction (Satin Nickel Finish) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D2K367Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_M1qiDbAVNK3XR

This is what I use with mine. If you find that it flips off too easily just add some grip to it. It’s worth it. I love this light!!!

Awesome, thank you very much for the in-depth answer!

SST = Samsung SmartThings

The Schlage I'm looking at is the Z-wave one. I guess it says right in it's title lol.

If you can't leave sooner than 4 months, I suggest looking into renting a storage locker for you things so they can't trash your possessions when you are not there. (As far as they're concerned, the things were sold because you needed cash or whatever.)

If you cannot leave sooner, for your own personal safety, consider getting a travel door lock. You can keep it with you when you're not home, and have a way to secure your door when you're resting. A portable door alarm might also help you to rest more easily.

If they don't know you have one of those door locks, anyone trying to pick the doorknob may assume they've done something incorrectly.

I work out at a pool. I generally just toss my bag on the bleachers and swim. Anyone could walk out with my keys, phone, everything. They just... don't.

That said I do know a thing or two about locks due to my profession. And locks... only keep honest people honest. This is the only kind of lock I've ever met that I couldn't shim. And I did eventually get it apart - though not without some time, effort and specialized tools. Also I was trying to save the lock itself. If I'd just been willing to use a bolt cutter I'd get through it in ten seconds.

But you don't have to run faster than the bear, you just have to run faster than your friend. If your locker isn't the easiest to hit, they'll likely hit someone else's.

A much cleaner solution is the little round clear dots you can buy to stick on doors to make them not slam. They're like a $1 and would look great.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001WAK6DS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_r.n-tb0CERHMV

I have two of the Stanley padlocks right now and I haven't been able to pick either of them! Watching multiple gutting of these guys it seems to vary how many security pins are in them. Yours is actually the least amount of security pins I've seen in one yet. That being said I think they are the best dollar/security padlock on the market right now. I think the next step up in that sector is the Stanley 60mm version and above that being a Abus 83CS/50 with a Mul-T-Lock Junior MT4 (dimple in dimple) with a combined price of at least $70.

The Kwikset offers SmartKey® Re-Keying which is also available on their dumb deadbolt/knobs...

It looks like you want to go with the Schlage since you already have Schlage and theyre not key compatible with Kwikset..

It doesnt look like Schlage offers any type of system like the Kwikset Smartkey - so you'll have to either have the new Schlage rekeyed to match your other 2 locks or vice versa..

Heres a good comparison of 3 smart locks


Looks like the Schlage is the slightly less expensive option also vs Kwikset ..

1- I bet you can get away with some small rubber feet and no screws. That would keep it from sliding around. Once you got everything on the desk, I think you'd be fine. If you're more comfortable with more, then screws would be fine (don't forget to drill a pilot hole).

2- At 1 3/4" thick, I think you'll be fine without it.

3- See number 2

That piece is unfinished. You'll want to finish the wood with something. Natural Danish oil would be the easiest. But if you want more of a film on it, then I'd suggest polyurethane.

Here's a portable door lock you could use for when "just walking in" is inappropriate.

Also, need to have that talk about "respecting ones need for some privacy" and how she wouldn't like it if you were to barge in on her while she's changing. It's pretty rough if you are so fed up as to consider doing the same to her to let her be on the receiving end 'to see how she likes being barged in on while nude'.

We have these for our door

https://www.amazon.com/Defender-Security-10827-Door-Reinforcement/dp/B00D2K367Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=door+security+latch&qid=1571533153&sprefix=door+security+&sr=8-3

We love em, they are super sturdy and the point of leverage on them paired with long screws makes them solid

You've got a cute cat, btw!

Try some blocks of high-density foam, you can find them in black and they're strong enough that you can make them look more or less like they were there all along.

If it's not vibrating, just wandering around aimlessly, you could put some of this down, even under just two of the legs.

Now you need to make a Wandering Subwoofer song.

What? Sorry, that didn't make much sense. So you have a locking mechanism that unlocks a chain lock? I would love to see an example of this.

Edit: Apparently it is like this. Never seen a lock like this before. Now the question is how do you lock it when you leave? It must be pretty annoying.

I’d recommend a french cleat. You can hit a couple studs and ensure it stays put. Good work.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VWAYQC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TUeMBbKKQMJBG

I would use zip ties or Velcro - or better yet, one of those cable management channel from Amazon or found in the electric supply section of most home improvement stores and use 3M command strips to attach to the wall or desk/bed.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001WAK6DS?psc=1

I guess use something like this. Maybe mess around with the vertical height a bit beforehand to see what works nice. Oh and perhaps a dome shape is better as a flat shape won't work as well on an angle. I just realized that.

I leave mine in the (reasonably wide) corridor to my front door, to protect the walls I bought a bit of hardboard from homebase (about 1200 x 600mm for £5) and 2 packs of these (£2.50).

Then I just lean the bike against the board, you can paint the hardboard too if you like. Black is obviously a good colour choice.

Yeah, but you could get two of these for less than half the price of the Mech version, and it would do just as good a job.

I think the Mech version is too expensive for what it's worth. The Connect version might be more usable.

I have the Schlage sense deadbolt. It works great with HomeKit.

Schlage Sense Smart Deadbolt with Camelot Trim in Satin Nickel (BE479 CAM 619) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YUPDW0Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qpYFDbV33YZFC

Do you have an iPhone? If so upgrade it to a Schalge Sense. I've been using this for about 5 weeks now. It checks all the boxes you want, except to automatically generate codes. However, thru the app you can easily make a new code and text it to the guest, straight from the app, how's that? It also lets you set time parameters for when the code to work. Its expensive at $200, but waaaay better than the August lock.

I put this on the bottom of all my gear. Plus, everything is safely tucked away under the speaker stands I made.

> If you mean the version where the doorstop prevents micro vibrations and the iron will suck up cosmic rays thus enhancing the sound, then definitely not.

Scared me for a second there lol

There is UV window film like this one. Every year as summer rolls around and I feel like I'm being steamed alive I reconsider buying some ...

If moving is not an option, work on hardening your home. There are simple fixes you can do in a weekend, like installing this door stopper
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D2K367Y/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3M makes a nice shatter proof glass film to install on your windows. Get a big dog. Install motion lights and cameras. Cameras are cheap these days. Alarms and security systems are useful. There are tons of little things to harden your home to deter criminals. If that doesn't work, your second layer of defense is advanced notice (dogs, lights, cameras) to give you time to get to your weapon.

These are all easy and minor fixes. It's a mindset...always work to improve your position and refuse to be a victim.

I added rubber pads to the bottom of my PS4 and it vastly improved how hard the fan had to work to keep it cooled. Something like this.

Would this help? My friend swears by it

Defender Security U 10827 Door Reinforcement Lock – Add Extra, High Security to Your Home and Prevent Unauthorized Entry – 3” Stop, Aluminum Construction (Satin Nickel Finish) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D2K367Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Dwy1CbTQTWN65

I was considering getting one of these, but the cost seemed prohibitive. So, off to Thingiverse.

Found this excellent model

Then added this enhancement for durability.

I grabbed a pack of adhesive foam rubber from amazon and now I’m ripping in style (and safety)

Defense in Depth:

1. good neighborhood (sounds like this is out)
   
2. sturdy doors/doorjambs, multiple locks (knob, deadbolt, chain, this thing)
   
3. fence/fence-like shrubbery
   
4. bright motion-activated outdoor-lights
   
5. alarm system
   5a) dog
   
6. camera system
   
7. firearm

Command Velcro Strips. Large size. If they are too wide, cut them up the middle so that you retain. The pull strip. Comes off the wall and object cleanly and hold very well so long as your wall paint isn't powdery. For applying to glossy backed or painted frames, they stick well. For applying directly to wood I use a little super glue with a kicker to dry it fast (don't glue to the wall obviously). We have a number of my wood projects and even a framed mirror approximates 36x24 all hung with these type strips. For your project because I over do it, I would use four strips.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LOQMCDM/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497563244&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=command+velcro+strips&dpPl=1&dpID=51Zr0mzkkyL&ref=plSrch

I use command strips for everything and I have lived in three apartments so far.

I use these for posters: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FIK56Q4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These for my clothes/towels in the bathroom:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C60C4EG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These for my big white board:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073XR4X72/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These for a canvas painting a friend painted for me:

https://www.amazon.com/Command-Canvas-Hangers-Indoor-PH044-3NA/dp/B0751VC2WQ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=command+strip+canvas&qid=1574831251&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExWldDN1NDSzZLQkRBJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjU4MTg5M05RWk9IMTBDQVk0UCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjIwNTY4WThEODBCREI2TzM4JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

​

These are really easy to set up and easy to remove. Simple instructions too. No damages.

Looks like they are pretty readily available at a wide variety of places.

Home Depot

Amazon

Lowe's

So it's tough for your space since it's pretty small. Given the furniture you have that could interfere I would probably place the one camera centered on the wall above your bed up near the ceiling and angled towards the center of your play area, and the other centered above your window near the ceiling.

Generally having them in opposite corners (this is how mine are) would be better, but your cabinets would get in the way. You might have some issues since you will be fairly close to the camera, but I think you can get away with it.

My cameras are mounted using 3m command strips and small camera mounts. I chose this route since I cannot drill into my apartment walls without losing my deposit. I just stuck the strips to the back of the mounts and to the walls. If you choose this route make sure you give the adhesive some time to set before you actually put the camera up (on both the camera mount and the wall).

These are what I used:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R96X9DS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LOQMCDM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Or you could just get one of these for less than ten bucks. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D2K367Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_82kLDb5XJP83Y7

I have them on my doors. They're really solid. I just use them at night, gives me a little more peace of mind. I live in a safe neighborhood, but one night a few years ago there was a crazy drugged-out guy breaking into homes with the families asleep inside, just looking for money I guess, but still. Obviously he got caught pretty quickly but with young kids at home I decided that I should reinforce my doors somehow.

I too had this issue. My son is now 12, and his bolting has stopped. Hope your daughter's does too. The cheapest and easiest is a keyed chain

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CRFWEU/ref=redir_mdp_mobile

Place them high. The advantage is with the key someone who is outside can open the door if they have the key.

I used velcro command strips and cut them down to fit behind the flat piece of the stand so they can ideally not be seen. They’ve worked great and I’ve had no issues with them falling as they’re sturdy.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-media/product-gallery/B000CRFWEU/ref=cm_ciu_pdp_images_0?ie=UTF8&index=0

Hope that helps!

Yes I know. There are a number of other factors involved here many of whom are out of my control as well. Anyway, I think I'll just install one of these. That was my initial idea but gf didn't like the look but she'll have to live with it. Thanks.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Defender-Security-10827-Door-Reinforcement/dp/B00D2K367Y

Abus locks are the way to go. 30 bucks or so is what I have found some good ones. I can sometimes rake American locks, and picking them is way easier than abus locks. The master lock you have can be jiggled open practically, or a little poky can be inserted in the third spinner and it will open, or you can use a probe and feel when they are in place.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009S5Y69E/

If this fits it is what I would suggest. But they have cheaper ones. It shows the size specs on the pics I think.

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-8290DPS-22-inch-9-Link/dp/B0009V1WQQ

These are pretty sweet and not that easy to get through unless you bring some serious tools!

nice, but don't they use bidets equipped with warm air dryers nowadays?

edit: here is a similar toilet paper holder: https://www.amazon.com/EZ-CECOMINOD021717-EZ-Load-Toilet-Holder/dp/B001ONT90Y

or a bidet with warm air dryer: https://www.amazon.com/BATHWA-Temperature-Controlled-Posterior-Installation/dp/B079GT6CV2/

The deadbolt itself is hardly a concern for somebody kicking in your door.

For front door security, you need a few things:

• Nightlock floor-mounted barricade
  
• Two entry stops along your lock side door jamb
  
• Door jamb armor kit
  
• Deadbolt flip guard
  
  Assuming you have a solid core door and use at least 3" nails screws (oops) to install everything (pre-drill pilot holes so you don't split your frame/jamb), that door will be straight up zombie apocalypse proof. Somebody would have to use explosives to get it open.
  
  This is pretty much how I did my front door, so I've bought and installed these and can attest to their solid...ness. There are also a lot of youtube videos showing how well they work alone, let alone together.

I have one of these in my closet, and I lock it with one of these speed locks. That way I don't need to look for a key or fumble with a combination lock in the middle of the night. Secure, but easy to do just by touch.

This is the best I've found. It folds into a small enough package to put on the hip of your pants.

It can't be cut with cable Cutters due to the material in shape.

The cuff parts are wrapped in rubber so they don't scratch your onewheel.

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-Street-9-Hardened-8290DPS/dp/B0009V1WQQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541963733&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=handcuff+bike+lock

Rubbing Alcohol

My entire house has a ton of command strip devices in it, including the four camera mounts. Clean the surface with rubbing alcohol, let it dry. Apply the strip to the camera mount first, then press the mount to the wall surface for a minimum of 30 seconds. Put your back into it! The only strips that have come down are the craptastic cable ties that tend to break with a light breeze.

​

Really, what you want for the camera mounts are these strips. They are overkill, velcro (easily removable/adjustable), and worth every penny.

Schlage Sense Smart Deadbolt.

Schlage Sense Smart Deadbolt with Camelot Trim in Satin Nickel (BE479 CAM 619) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YUPDW0Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6haLDbPD29MJ4

I use these and like them very much. Manufacturer claims they can withstand 800 lbs of force.

Defender Security U 10827 Door Reinforcement Lock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D2K367Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TLxrDbT1FX3XQ

They are coated with rubber so no scratch and intimidating as they look like cuffs. Attach them to your frame and bike seat support for easy carry.

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-Street-9-Hardened-8290DPS/dp/B0009V1WQQ

These are the ones I used:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AGK9KUU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DX6GRA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Purchased two years ago and they're holding up great! The door is fully exposed to weather.

For lazy non-Japanese:
Here, or here.

And, if you like Ebay better than Amazon, try here.

I assume you mean this. The reviews are mixed. Some say it's great, others say that it has some serious flaws.

If I lived in a place where I felt I needed that, I'd rather upgrade to solid wood doors and replace all the hardware to reinforce it better, get an alarm system, a dog, a gun and maybe a solid wood door with deadbolts on the bedroom (just as a second layer of protection) before getting that thing.

> Mechanical locks cannot have customizable number of back and forth turns.

Just gonna leave that here: http://www.masterlock.com/personal-use/product/1500iD

And that:
> Users can create their own easy to remember, resettable combination consisting of any number of movements in any sequence.

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-1500iD-Combination-Assorted/dp/B002TSN4SQ

And that:
http://www.h-i-r.net/2010/01/review-master-1500id-speed-dial-lock.html

Look at the Schlage Connect Deadbolt

> App with ability to lock or unlock door remotely and notifications of who arrived and left when they use pin code.

This lock works with the Wink hub, and you can set/delete codes with the Wink app.

> Ability to provide temp. pin code with specific days/times that the pin code will only work.

This is a limitation with Wink - you would have to manually delete the codes and re-enter using the Wink app. But if you had this paired with another z-wave hub, like HomeSeer or Vera, this could be done programmatically.

> Ability to auto-lock after a certain amount of time. My husband has a habit of leaving for work without locking the house, so this is super important!

You can setup a Wink "robot" to do this.

> Works with either Google Home, Wink, Nest, Automatic, etc. these are the systems I have in my house currently.

Works with Wink.

> I would like the ability to have it unlock when I walk up or arrive home since my hands aren't usually free.

Can't do this with Wink alone, but it can be done if you use Stringify (free app) with Wink.

> Available in bronze (brown) so it will match hinges, nobs.

Comes in two styles - Century, and Camelot.

I've had this lock for three years now and have no complaints.

[Edit] - If you have Automatic and use the free Stringify app along with Wink, you can have it automatically unlock when you turn off the ignition in your driveway and lock when you turn on the ignition in your driveway.

[Second Edit] - you can also set Nest status/temp based on keycodes used to unlock the lock ....

I don't know any bypass or decode for the Master Lock 1500iD Speed Dial. It's not the most rugged lock in the world, anyone with bolt cutters could pop it, but it does use a mechanical hashing function for the combination that is clever.

Maybe someone else here knows one?

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002TSN4SQ/

If you don't want to bother with sunscreen and you're concerned about aging, it's not a bad idea to buy a UV-blocking window film just for that one window. They're fairly cheap and easy to put on. Amazon even sells a roll for $30.

I like this one because you don't need to carry a key, and you can perform the combination easily even in the most delirious of post-workout fugue states.

Don't do any of that. Use a bunch of these. My full length mirror has been hanging for years.

Edit: not sure why I'm being downvoted. OP said she isn't handy, and doesn't know what any of that means. These command things work very well and are easy to use. I always use them for my pictures and mirrors.

Abus Titalium 80Ti/50. 12 Bucks on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/ABUS-80TI-50-Titalium-Aluminum/dp/B00G7P3FYA/

Or if you want really good one in that range, Abus has their big bad boy 90/50 Titalium for like 48 bucks on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/90-50-Titalium-Stainless-Shackle/dp/B009S5YBUS/

I don't know about Canadian law, but it's definitely an invasion of privacy. While you're trying to find out the legal side of it, pick up a portable door lock. You don't have to nail or screw it to anything and it will keep him out while you are inside.

https://www.amazon.com/Calslock-Portable-Door-Travel-Lock/dp/B00GMPFCNC

I used 3m command strip poster hangers and just stuck my base table to the wall. The tabs stick out so I can remove without damage if needed in the future. Made mine a lot more stable and kept sound from transferring into the wall since it's a bit like foam.


https://www.amazon.com/Command-Picture-Hanging-Strips-PH206-14NA/dp/B073XR4X72

Yes, you can buy window film that's like what they use to tint car windows, but is completely clear and blocks UV.
http://www.amazon.com/Clear-Protection-Window-Film-Wide/dp/B004JAW3KW

> I currently live in a rental and cannot drill into the kitchen tile

You might be able to use command strips: https://www.amazon.com/Command-Picture-Decorate-Damage-Free-PH206-14NA/dp/B073XR4X72

These work well for hanging pictures and will bond very well to a clean tile surface. Supposedly 4 strips holds 16lbs but I would test that first. Probably adding more strips will hold more weight as well.

You can also find some more magnetic knife blocks here: https://www.cuttingboard.com/knife-blocks/

I have used the Master Lock 1500iD for a couple of years. It's very easy to use. It's a directional combination lock.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B002TSN4SQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I own one of that design. It would be much better without the top flat, which gets in the way and fails to make the holder any more aesthetically pleasing. It's not as if it hides the fact you have toilet paper there, and the flap serves no functional purpose.

It's otherwise nice, a cinch to replace a roll. $14 on Amazon.

Anywhere we can get this? Hand-Be is the company? Di they have a better looking products with this mechanism?

Update: Found it in 3 seconds https://www.amazon.com/EZ-CECOMINOD021717-EZ-Load-Toilet-Holder/dp/B001ONT90Y

just buy one of these. not sure where you live but it's the kind of thing they carry at walmart, hopefully open 24 hrs near you.

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I'll go ahead and share my comment from the r/oddlysatisfying post this is from:

> A few different options on amazon, all around $10-$13.

> https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01EGVD8VG/ref=pb_pd_lutyp_gr_3_1?pi=SS115&th=1&psc=1

> https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BVW2LAI/ref=pd_aw_fbt_201_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=86ATSSTMYX9AZCP9S161

> https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001ONT90Y

> I impulse bought one....

Most UTH's will come with little rubber feet that you can put on the bottom of your tank to raise it up from the surface. You should use them to let air flow get in around the UTH. If your thermostat doesn't come with them, you should be able to find them online. They're pretty cheap

It's mounted with these: https://www.amazon.com/Command-Picture-Hanging-12-Pairs-17206-12ES/dp/B00LOQMCDM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1511833029&sr=8-2&keywords=3M+command

Makes it really easy to attach/detach.

Never had an issue with the cold.

Defender Security U 10827 Door Reinforcement Lock - Add Extra, High Security to Your Home and Prevent Unauthorized Entry - 3" Stop, Aluminum Construction (Satin Nickel Finish) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D2K367Y

Or get one of these. Cheap and effective. https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-Products-10827-Reinforcement-Construction/dp/B00D2K367Y/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1493833190&sr=8-5&keywords=door+reinforcer

Get a couple of these, and put them inside your locker. Makes finding things in the middle of the night much easier. I also had one in my rack for reading with, the normal rack light was just too bright.

Doubling up on curtians is nice, but people will probably steal them at some point. A much safer plan is to take the existing curtians, take them to a tailor out in town, and have them add a layer or two of cloth. After that, put them back in your rack, and put a small screw in the track that they hang from. With that $0.05 piece of hardware, your curtians are safe from all but the most determined of berthing thieves.

Also, these padlocks were phenomenal. They're opened by sliding the button up, down, left, or right. No fumbling with keys or squinting at combinations in the dark. I had mine set to a quick up-down, and could have my locker open and be halfway dressed by the time my neighbor was spinning his padlock to the 3rd number.

Edit: One last thing, get a small carabiner to hang your loofah or shower sponge from your towel bar. Keeping it in your locker or stuffing it at the foot of your rack is just begging for mildew.

This is an excellent bike lock.


Here's a seriously skilled locksmith's review of it.

These might work as well if he can access the track where the doors slide on.

But, kids can be pretty strong. I had to screw these chains on some of my cabinets because those plastic ones get broken a couple seconds after I install them.

Here's a link to a green one for $12.16 USD 😁
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005UMCJRA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xsKTDbJNETXNT

And abus 80ti/50, also green belt, for $12.20 USD
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G7P3FYA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HwKTDbTVC4FEQ

I use this stupid hard chain covered in an old mountain bike tube with a [fancy titanium alloy lock] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G7P3FYA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1). It's much more bang for your buck than a krytonite or some other ludicrously expensive "bike chain".

It's kinda overkill really but I was super nervous about theft when I moved into the city.

I'd turn around and walk out.

I keep very little of my gear in my locker, I keep all my guitars and main amps at either my folk's house or the studio. But I keep my tech. cases, boats, a few amps, and now, almost everything I own from my apt.

I can't tell you how many guys/bands I know/see that store their stuff in 24 hour access, and put a fucking Master lock on it, thinking because they got the one with the yellow rubber coating that it's a tough lock. Then they're surprised when they go to get their gear for their next show, and their locker's been emptied. (And guess what? It happened 10 minutes after they loaded it in there.)

I also can't tell you how many times I've told smaller acts pulling a trailer to spend sixty bucks on a better lock, back it against a wall, and pull the coil wire.

I get an indoor locker and put this on it. They'd have to tear the door off to get in there, unless they've got a few hours to try to work it.

I believe this will let you build at least 20 keyboards :D https://www.amazon.com/SJ5302-Clear-Bumpon-Blister-Bumpons/dp/B01ACPT2LU

Or this kind of pads may be even better https://www.amazon.com/SoftTouch-Self-Stick-Non-Slip-Surface-Grip/dp/B000SL0KJM/

A portable door lock might be a good alternative/backup method.

This is much better, pocket sized. https://www.amazon.com/Calslock-Portable-Door-Travel-Lock/dp/B00GMPFCNC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1504757134&sr=8-2&keywords=travel+lock+door

3M Command mounting strips. They are apparently easy to remove (haven't actually tried). You can get these with just the tape or this velcro-like strips which will let you readjust the frame if needed.

Offer to cover the daycare installing one of those frame locks up high on the door? Something like this;

https://www.amazon.ca/Prime-Line-Products-10827-Blocker-Nickel/dp/B00D2K367Y/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_75_bs_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=MRW5RMK2S4R6N767PWXD

Drywall anchors are only so-so. Consider making a french-cleat with a piece of wood that you can screw into the studs.

Or use something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VWAYQC/

Even if you have plaster and lathe, the hanger product there should support the weight of your mirror if you use screws that get into the lathe.

https://www.amazon.com/Self-Stick-Noise-Dampening-Bumpers-12-pieces/dp/B001WAK6DS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1498586103&sr=8-3&keywords=rubber+bumper

These should work. It's always nice to have some of these laying around for random things that need feet.

Do you keep the new rolls in the same room? Maybe stack them up within arm's reach?

Or get one if those quick swap ones like: EZ-Load Toilet Paper Holder by EZ https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001ONT90Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CaHmybXN0HAD6

Make it so easy she'll take the path of least resistance. Say you've compromised and you expect her to as well. The threats and arguments are currently the path of least resistance.

Schlage Sense Smart Deadbolt with Camelot Trim Satin Nickel (BE479 CAM 619), Works with Alexa - BE479AA V CAM 619 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YUPDW0Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LoI5Cb7G3YD47

I was thinking about this

For anyone who feels unsafe in a place where someone else has a key, get one of these 1, 2, 3. They only work while you're already inside your room/home/apartment, but make it so no key or lockpick will let someone in. Peace of mind when you sleep.


Practice using it if you get one in case of a fire or other quick-exit need.

initially I used these command strips and stick them to the wall, but since my wall is kinda porus I can't get them to stick too long then I just decided to use a tripod selfie stick and just put it on top of the table for extra height

I like these

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004051TE2/ref=twister_B079TRHTZN?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

What about this or something like it?

I guess it’s worth it if you don’t have a handle but I’m guessing most people do. The lock itself is $167 on Amazon without a sale https://www.amazon.com/Schlage-Deadbolt-Camelot-CAM-619/dp/B00YUPDW0Q

You can use this kind of command strips. They make the panels sit off the wall a little bit more, but no tabs and easier to remove without damaging the wall.

Links:

Deadbolt Flip Guard

Door Armor

Defender Security Door Reinforcement Locks

I'm in an apartment so I didn't want to go with anything permanent. After trying a few things I ended up just using two 3m Command Strips on each base and mounted them upside down. Actually works really well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LOQMCDM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481636494&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=3m+command+strips&dpPl=1&dpID=51Zr0mzkkyL&ref=plSrch

That's curious. I have never purchased one of those.

I use about 4 of these in rotation.

It's not the same but I've had this one on my Amazon wishlist forever now. You just made me realize how old I am for having a toilet paper holder on a wishlist.

Have you considered one of these? My coworker has a $2000+ bike and he locks it up with something similar. Im not sure the exact model of his lock. I was wondering if it was more or less secure than a u lock.

If you're really paranoid about the sun, you can always put on a clear UV film on your skylight so you can still enjoy it. There are lots of them available, the one I linked to is just the first one that popped up.

Even if you're in the right, be prepared for them to try anyways.

https://www.amazon.com/Rishon-Enterprises-Inc-I9889-Addalock/dp/B00186URTY

https://www.amazon.com/Defender-Security-10827-Door-Reinforcement/dp/B00D2K367Y

Yes but it would be so cliched to use it as expected. I would pair the pirate map with this lock

The [Masterlock street cuff locks](Master Lock Street Cuff Locks, 9-Hardened Steel Links, 22 in. Long, 8290DPS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009V1WQQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dtUPBbV592QP5) are pretty damn good. But, if someone really wants to steal your stuff they will come prepared with a grinder, sawzall, bolt cutters, plasma torch, etc.

Get something like this - and hide it when you're not there.

Mine used to wobble. I added rubber feet on the existing feet, and it works just fine now.

Looks like it does. You'd have to find a corresponding site from the UK, but it exists.

You could get something like this: Calslock Portable Door & Travel Lock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GMPFCNC/

Or Google "travel door lock." There's another removable block called a DoorJammer, and MasterLock makes something too. If nothing else I'd put a little alarm or bells or something on doors. And listen to your dogs :) We put a ladder in front of the door when we go to bed. It makes a lot of noise when it falls over and it's hard to move it from outside once it's fallen over, because you can't open the door all the way.

It'd be best to change locks but you should have another type of barricade or alert anyway in case someone defeats the lock or gets access to your keys.

Door Brace. You can probably find one cheaper, or make one; this is just what I pulled up on Amazon really quick.

Only 14.99 on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/EZ-5833648-EZ-Load-Toilet-Holder/dp/B001ONT90Y

I found this on Amazon.

direct u/short_comedy spam-bypassing link

Please report this post and user u/short_comedy for violating the rules for personal profit.

chain locks are useless, get something like this or the ones like they use in hotels that have the u bar and the nob (no idea what they are called) and make sure it is amputee dwarf bondage porn i mean if you are going to go for it go for broke man...

The theme is here, like my transparency theme it's just a modified Midnight idea.

 

The hardware:

1 x 2012 Fire Tablet (the more recent version bought here)

1 x A3 two way acryllic sheet

1 x A3 picture frame, with sufficiently deep sides

4 x Pairs of 3M Command Strips to hang the whole thing


 


Lovelace:

The actual lovelace setup is mostly custom iframes for date/time and the little welcome image at the bottom, and the Wunderground weather panel.

The character icon next to the weather is a picture state card, decided by the type of weather. He'll have an umbrella if it's raining, or be surrounded by clouds for mild/grey weather.

 

Still to come:

At the moment this is just the functioning prototype for me. Eventually using tasker I'll have it:

1. turn the screen on when motion is detected
   
2. charge when less than 30%
   
3. stop charging when above 90%

If he didn't have much trouble with the Abus, maybe try one of these for the next one?

A common variation on the standard chain security device.

Keyed Chain Door Lock
https://www.amazon.com/National-Hardware-Keyed-Chain-Brass/dp/B000CRFWEU

Normally it would be mounted so that the key isn't needed to unlatch it from inside. The one you picture just has the key lock part mounted outside the door trim and that affects the reach of the chain. It's questionable if you could even open the door enough to reach in with the key in that position.

If you don't mind the eyesore, you could buy some adhesive sheets made out of silicone, rubber, or foam and cut a strip to go around your bottles. Maybe even something like a couple of woven fabric bandaids would give you enough of a grip.

Bring one of these, just for fun.

(I know it won't solve the *real* problem though)

​

https://www.amazon.com/Calslock-Portable-Door-Travel-Lock/dp/B00GMPFCNC

Good point, I've just avoided ulocks since then. The masterlock motorcycle cuffs seem to do the trick for me.

https://www.amazon.com/Defender-Security-10827-Door-Reinforcement/dp/B00D2K367Y

I got one of these for a door that is very similar to what you describe. it is way below the glass so it would be impossible to reach and unhinge from the outside. We only use it when we are on the inside, otherwise you cant get in.

A lot of the folks here have given some great advice. I wanted to add my perspective:

Barricading yourself and calling the cops was the right thing to do. If anything, I would make sure my bedroom door has good locks, either a deadbolt or door reinforcement lock of some kind (https://www.amazon.com/Defender-Security-10827-Door-Reinforcement/dp/B00D2K367Y)

​

I have a gun in a quick-access safe in my master bedroom, but if the alarm ever goes off, my wife and I know that the first step is to lock/barricade the master bed room (I have deadbolts installed on the door), hit the panic button/call the cops, and then get the firearm ready as last resort.

​

Here you go: Masterlock Street Cuffs

Or you could buy a pair of these...

I'll be the lookout while you sneak them through the back stairwell.

Or on second thought...

I don't use one (or any lock) but if I did I'd be looking at one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-Street-9-Hardened-8290DPS/dp/B0009V1WQQ

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-Street-9-Hardened-8290DPS/dp/B0009V1WQQ

Master Lock Street Cuffs

Here you go.

Bike cuffs
I wonder if those are harder to break then a u-lock.

It's a bike lock you know.. http://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-8290DPS-22-Inch-9-Link/dp/B0009V1WQQ

I use the thing! http://www.amazon.com/Mace-80115-MACE-Jammer-Brace/dp/B0009V2LU2

I don't know what exactly is going in this situation, but this exists

You can get door chains that can be locked/unlocked from outside the door,

https://www.amazon.com/National-Hardware-Keyed-Chain-Brass/dp/B000CRFWEU

Lime this?


What if additional locks are not allowed?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CRFWEU

http://www.amazon.com/Hangman-Products-30-Inch-Heavy-Duty-Anchorless/dp/B000VWAYQC/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1426048183&sr=1-2&keywords=picture+rail+with+level

https://www.amazon.com/EZ-5833648-EZ-Load-Toilet-Holder/dp/B001ONT90Y

https://www.amazon.com/EZ-5833648-EZ-Load-Toilet-Holder/dp/B001ONT90Y