Reddit mentions: The best vehicle hoists & jacks

From what I've heard, you don't actually need to take your wheels off to dip. If you don't know what tools you'll need to do it, then you probably should go this route.

However if you still want to get some good tools to learn how to work on your car, here's what you'll need:

Floor jack this is the Harbor Freight one. It can be found in stores for as low as $70 depending on coupons. It's actually a pretty decent jack. Its very low and it lifts well. It's pretty good quality too, just very heavy. If you're not in the states/near a HF, do some research on a decent one as you don't want to drop your car on anyone/anything.

Jack stands you'll need four if you want to take all your wheels off at once. I don't have these stands and I don't know anything about them so do your research on some good ones (they don't have to be very expensive) and make sure to get some that will support your vehicles weight. Remember, be safe.

Breaker bar this will help you get the leverage you need to break your lug nuts loose. It's a very smart idea to properly torque your lug nuts back down when you put your wheels back on so they don't fall off or you don't snap a stud. Here's a combo kit with a torque wrench and that same breaker bar I have a few Tekton brand tools and I'm very pleased with them. They are a fantastic budget option that isn't junk. I would definitely buy from them again (and I'm a bit of a tool snob)

Lug nut sockets this is a generic kit that I have no experience with. You'll need a socket to fit on your breaker bar and torque wrench. This is a set with multiple sizes, you only need one size for your car so if you want to save some money, figure out what size your lug nuts are and just get one socket. The ones in this kit and some you'll find elsewhere are coated in a plastic sleeve to prevent scratching on your wheels.

Gloves Gloves aren't necessary but some people like them to keep from getting their hands super dirty. You can get as cheap or as expensive as you like with gloves. These seem to be popular. If you do go to HF to buy a floor jack, I like their heavy duty black nitrile gloves. They're disposable and very strong.

This should be all you need to get started with changing tires and whatnot. I'm on mobile so sorry for the inevitable typo. Good luck with your wheels and don't forget to post pictures on the finished product. I'll link some more tools below this if you'd like to build of a kit to do basic maintenance like changing your oil, etc...

Socket set This is a very good place to start with sockets. I linked a 1/4 drive and 3/8 combo set. The smaller 1/4 inch drive sockets are great for small places and will be fine for a lot of your car. The 3/8 inch drive set is good for larger fasteners or things that are a bit tighter. If you were only going to get one, I'd get the 3/8 drive. Alternatively if you want something a little bit better, GearWrench makes very good sockets and ratchets for a good price as well (more than Tekton but way less than "professional" tool truck brands)

Oil drain pan Doing an oil change is a great way to do maintenance on your car and get started before you do bigger things. You'll need to drain the old oil somewhere so a pan like this is perfect. You don't need anything too fancy. I think I got mine from my local auto parts store for ~$10.

Screwdrivers There's a million different options for these. My personal favorites are the Wera Kraftform screwdrivers they are super comfortable and they have a special non slip tip that is amazing. I don't want to use any other screwdriver ever after this. (They're on sale now too!! They're usually about ~$10 more than this. I almost want to get an other set just because)

Pliers These are great pliers at a good price. Keep them clean and they should last a long time. I'm very happy with mine.

I can't think of much more right now. You'll know when you need something else. This also depends on what kind of car you have. Jeeps for example, use a lot of torx fasteners so you'd need torx sockets for a lot of stuff. Just make sure you watch a lot of videos on how to do things and make sure you're comfortable doing whatever it is you're doing. The last thing you want to do is damage you or your car.

Additional Notes:

I hope this is the right subreddit. Putting this first because it is the important part. I am looking for a sort of project car but one for someone that has no mechanic experience. I have an engineering degree, but have never worked with automotives. My current car is good enough to last at least til december so I am looking for a car that I can work on until then and eventually have it become my daily car. I want this to be a learning experience so by the end of it all I will be somewhat efficent at basic mechanic work as well as tuning, performance upgrades, etc. I have never owned a manual car but desire this so that I learn how to drive stick as well as they seem to have the most viability when talking about upgrades and working on them. I plan on using 3k USD on the inital purchase but if I find something for less then the remainder of the 3k will go straight back into the car being purchased. I also plan on spending between 300-600 USD a month on parts to gradually upgrade performance and eventually apperance. The idea is putting roughly 6-7k into a car and make it a learning experience instead of just purchasing something I wont want to work on. I also have a mechanic that can look at the car during the initial purchase but any links that will help with identifying problems especially for specific cars will be appreciated.


Can you do Minor/major work on your own vehicle:

I just purchased a the following as starter mechanics tools

• Craftsman 230-Piece Mechanics toolset
  
  
• TEKTON Universal Joint Set
  
  
• Neiko 1/2 Inch drive premium Breaker Bar
  
  
• Kobalt 5-piece pliers set
  
  
• Pro-Lift F-767 Grey Low Profile Floor Jack - 2 Ton Capacity
  
  
• Torin T43002 Jack Stands: 3 Ton Lift Capacity
  
  And also a Ball Pein Hammer and Rubber Mallet
  
  
  If you have any recommendations other than what I purchased, I can still return any of these items and purchase others. Any other items I might need let me know. I plan on getting more tools as I need them.
  
  
  
  Location: USA, Texas, Rio Grande Valley Area
  
  Price range: Max 3000 USD for inital purchase
  
  New or used: Used
  
  
  Must haves: Easy to work on; Cost-Performance Efficent aftermarket parts; Ability to Upgrade
  
  
  Intended use: Project car for a couple months; Eventually Daily Use
  
  
  Vehicles you've already considered:
  
  
  
• 2000 Honda Civic EX D16Y8 Engine
  
  
• 1992 Corolla Toyota
  
  
• 1989 Honda civic ef sedan w/D15Z1 off 92-93 civic vx
  
  
• 1999 Honda Civic Coupe 1.6 vtec
  
  
• 1991 Honda Civic Hatchback
  
  
• 1997 vtec Hoonda Civic
  
  
• 1995 Honda Civic
  
  
• Civic Ex D19Y8
  
  
• 2000 Honda Civic Vtec 1.6
  
  
• 1984 vw rabbit gti
  
  
• 1999 Ecclipse
  
  
• 2000 Ranger
  
  
• 2000 Eclipse
  
  
• 1990 Mustang foxbody 5.0
  
  
• 1997 Mitsubishi Mirage
  
  
• 03 Mits Eclipse GTS Spyder
  
  
• CAMARO Z28
  
  
  I am open to suggestions but am more fond of light cars with better mpg
  
  
• Local Craigslist
  
  
• Local Craigslist 2
  
  Is this your 1st vehicle: No, currently have a 99 Toyota Corolla LE with 287k miles purchased at 170k and I put on the rest. I just had regular oil changes and minor things fized like sparkplugs. It had problem with the starter 6 months ago but banging on it made it work with no problems since then. No aftermarket parts and only problems currently is the evap cannister that I havent fixed and paint restoration as the clearcoat is gone aa I was ignorant on washing and waxing regularly as I live in a hot climate. It also has some rust on the roof and around the doors starting the develope. The corolla is okay, but being an automatic I assume there isnt much performance upgrades available. I also have the ability to purchase a 2005 Ford Escape XLT that works fine and just had a new cpu, tires and air compressor installed and has no current problems besides being Ford red in color ha
  
  
  
  Any help, opinions are greatly appreciated. If you would like to mentor me during this process as well, it would be cool to have someone in which I could ask question and get definite answers as no one in my immediate family or friends are car buffs.
  

I just ordered supplies from Amazon and would love feedback. I decided to go for a scissor jack, though that seems somewhat controversial in the DIY cider press world. The travel is amazing, they are light, cheap and I can operate it with a cordless drill.

Another big question is this 50 quart steamer basket. Cheap, but will it hold up to the strain? I guess the good news is that by going big now (12 gallons!), I can always downsize later.

I'm looking at mounting the disposal in a plastic tub, supported by a wood frame. I'm still working on the design (and will post here, with credit to you knockfer, when its done!).

Finally, instead of the very cool wood drainage platform you made, I'm opting for a simpler cutting board, and will drill a hole and attach a tube for drainage. Still figuring out that detail.

I'd welcome any thoughts about all this, and am so grateful for your inspiration! I'd never heard of using a garbage disposal as a chopper before. My wife is going to love this!

Very easy, no need for fancy tools but you do need a few basics:

Something like these:
http://www.amazon.com/Blitz-11903-Rhino-Ramp-8000/dp/B000AMMN9O
http://www.amazon.com/Blitz-11838-Oil-Drain-Pan/dp/B000AMGYNA/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1313509663&sr=1-2
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63250-Range-Filter-Wrench/dp/B0002SR4PY/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1313509691&sr=1-2

Before you start, you ought to take a look under the car to make sure the oil filter is easy to access. A PITA oil filter makes the job a lot harder. Read this on how to safely jack your car and look underneath it: http://autorepair.about.com/od/safetyfirst/qt/jack_safety.htm

Assuming everything is A-OK: http://autorepair.about.com/od/regularmaintenance/ss/oil_change.htm

Save the empty oil jugs and pour the used motor oil from the drain pan into the jugs (I like the gallon sized jugs for that reason). Go to Autozone or a simliar location, they'll offer free oil recycling.

The oil change itself usually only takes about 10 minutes, it's usually right next to effortless, and you'll know that some jiffy-lube place didn't rip you off ;)

Oh, and the first couple times, they're serious about 3/4 of a turn on the filter, and only a medium-effort hand tight: too tight and it's going to be impossible to get off later. I don't pre-fill the filter with oil. After you've filled it up, I usually run the car for a minute or two on the jack stands to make sure I don't have any leaks. If everything looks good, back it off the ramps, turn it off and check the level after a few minutes (to let the oil drain down into the sump). If everything looks A-OK, remember to check under the car for leaks wherever you park it for the next few days. The more often you do it, the less you'll have to worry, but occasionally things do go a little awry: I once didn't realize the old filter gasket didn't come off with the old filter, so I had two filter gaskets on. One of them gave way once the temperature and pressure got high, made quite a mess. Also, had a stone or something put a tiny dent in my oil filter can, that eventually turned into a pinhole, that eventually turned into a steady spray. Luckily it was in a vehicle with an oil pressure gauge and I noticed my pressure slowly dropping and was able to drive somewhere I could work on it.

Good luck!

[Edit] Just saw chip812's post. As he mentioned, you can skip the jack and stands and just get some ramps if you prefer. I have never used them though. Also, depending on how low your vehicle rides, you might not even need any lifting whatsoever to reach the oil pan drain plug and oil filter.

You will need a a jack stand(they come in pairs), such as these.

The emergency jack that came with your van for flat-tire repair will do for the lifting, but you should probably buy a regular floor jack, such as: this. Consult your van's manual to find out where the jack points are.

You can buy a catch-pan from your local auto-parts store. There are open-top ones, and then there are ones that seal with a lid, so that you can store the spent oil for a while before disposing of it. Up to you in which you prefer.

The auto-parts store will have a huge catalog next to the oil/air filters, which will tell you the type of filter from each manufacturer that fits your van. Not much difference between them, so go with what you're comfortable spending.

As for conventional vs. synthetic, I'm not terribly well-versed on the benefits. I've read that synthetic oil lasts longer before breaking down, compared to conventional oil. I know many sports cars require synthetic oil. If your van is a general commuter vehicle, then maybe save a few pennies and go conventional. Again, largely up to you. Brand doesn't matter terribly, as they're all pretty much safe/good for your particular vehicle.

Also note, use the containers that the new oil came in to store the old oil. The auto-parts store will have a recycling container in the back where they will let you dump it.

Hi-Lift jacks are really designed for agricultural applications, like jacking up a wheel tractor by the axle, but they work great for off-road vehicle stuff. However, the jack does not mate with typical "civilian" bumpers well. 4 Wheel Drive Parts, Summit Racing, Amazon and others sell an adapter that fits on a Hi-Lift and allows you to jack up a vehicle with a conventional curved steel bumper. It's called a BL-250 bumper lift.

http://www.amazon.com/Hi-Lift-Jack-BL-250-Bumper-Lift/dp/B00042JSNY/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1464636486&sr=8-10&keywords=high+lift+jack+accessories

And the Hi-Lift jack, itself.

http://www.amazon.com/Hi-Lift-Jack-XT485-48-X-TREME/dp/B0017T7WHW/ref=pd_sim_263_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=31uiCiEJb%2BL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0R8PKSGH1MMK7F92NCXS

Over the years, I have found three used Hi-Lift jacks at garage sales, etc. usually for very reasonable prices--$30-$40. They are extremely tough, and can be re-built easily. I would never trust a vehicle sitting on a jack, not a Hi-Lift or any other jack. The vehicle must be sitting on JACK STANDS to be safe. Never go under any vehicle sitting on a jack without jack stands.

http://www.amazon.com/Torin-T41202-Jack-Stands-pair/dp/B0002H335A/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1464637124&sr=1-1

There may not really be a "best". Just different options and their pros and cons may change depending on the work you want to do, the space you have to do it in and the bike you are working on.

1. Front and rear stands sometimes refered to as race stands, paddock stands. The typically talked about versions lift on the swing arm, spools for the rear stand and the fronts typically lift off the underside of the front forks. They work well and are small to store when not in use their small size leaves a lot of room around the bike for your work area. Their drawback is that for work like you want to do the front stand is in the way of the forks and the weight is still on them.
   
   There is a version of the front stand that lifts off the center of the triple tree steering stem. This solves the problem of standard front stands supporting the weight of the bike on the forks. You do however need the steering stem to be hollow or at least drilled for the peg of the stand to fit into it. u/TacticoolCanadian links a hybrid stand that does both lifting options.
   
   
2. The lift you have labeled as "1" in your image. These lift the bike from the bottom. You need a fairly flat lifting point under the bike and that point has to be designed to take the weight of the bike. So for example 2 parallel frame tubes. Some shimming is often needed to clear the engine and trans case. People use rubber pads, plastic blocks or wood often bolted to the lift to sort it out. The bike should be ratchet strapped down to make it stable. The big pros here they are usually pretty inexpensive and can be found often on craigslist. They get the bike up higher allowing you to sit on a stool. Both wheels can be in the air at the same time and the bike "can" be rolled around out of the way when not being worked on if one take some care and goes slow. Cons, stability. They can straight up seem sketchy as hell as the bike is supported on the narrow footprint, strapped down it isn't much of a worry but it will get most first time users worried.
   
   
3. Lift tables. The obvious pro is that it gets the bike up to a higher working level where you can stand. However this is really just raising the ground, you still need a way to lift the bike to get the wheels off the table. The industry standard is a flat jack. Plug for the K&L, they are very durable and will out last 2 of the cheaper knock offs. The knock offs don't feel as solid but at 1/4 the price last about 1/3-1/2 as long if cared for by greasing the screw threads. Both options have adapters to allow one to come up with ways to get lifting points under various bikes.
   
   Strap the bike down appropriately for the end you need to lift. I'm not a wheel chock or wheel vise fan(the one on the Harbor Frieght table in your image is next to useless). I find them annoying and in the way anytime you need to work on the front wheel/suspension. Most all of the mechanics I have worked with over the years have eventually gone to just a angle iron/aluminum stop held in with 2 nuts and bolts finger tight. When I need to pull the front wheel I slide a section of angle under the rear wheel as a stop, add some tie downs to the rear of the bike and slowly release the front tie downs. To save on jacking the front wheel over the height of the stop on the table, remove one of the 2 bolts holding it and pivot it out of the way.
   
   Tables take up a lot of room and can make life easy. In 25 years I've never lost a bike on a table. I know guys who have when mistakes were made. It's much can cause much more damage than a low to the ground tip over off a set of stands. Most DIY home users I see have the most trouble with loading a bike on a table and getting it strapped down trying to do it single handedly. They go for the slow walk up trying to keep the bike vertical and loose too much momentum and can't get the bikes back wheel up the ramp and will try to power through it sometimes getting off balance and the bike falling away from them. Both are easily solved by letting the bike lean into you so it doesn't go over center and pull away from you. The other time is once they get the bike up on it they have to fumble around with holding the bike and strapping it down. This is where some like the self supporting wheel chocks to roll the bike into. Being alone I've found the easiest is to just have a place to set the bike down on the side stand or get it up on the center stand if it has one. I use a platform of two 4x6s and a 2x14 as a table next to the lift to set the bike on the side stand. If you have a Handy lift or the like with wing extensions you don't likely need anything. From there it's just like strapping it down in a trailer.
   
   
   There are a ton of options for DIY jacks, lifts and tables out there too.
   
   Take a look at www.homemadetools.net/site/search?q=Motorcycle+Lifts&Search=
   
   One of my favorite that can be done cheap is to simply extend one of the motorcycle lift jacks to turn it into a table. I've thought about doing this to add a 2nd part time lift in the garage here at home.

I ended up using a friend's motorcycle jack, similar to this.

It worked out great, as we could strap it down using one of the arms of the jack to help keep it from wobbling and tipping around when pushing the new engine back under. The guide also suggests using a furniture dolly, which I imagine would work just as well, if not a bit better since the supports on it are probably a bit wider, helping to balance it better.

These are my most used tools for working on cars.


Trim tool - For molding and trim and windows, this is a must

http://www.amazon.com/No-Scratch-Tools-Removing-Fastener-Molding/dp/B000LNBLTK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1395692539&sr=8-4&keywords=bmw+tools


Tool Set - Here is your best bet for general tools. Start with this basic tool kit.

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-96-011-170-piece-Mechanics-Tool/dp/B002VXN6TG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1395692665&sr=8-4&keywords=automotive+tool+kit

Code reader - then this so you can read check engine codes and properly fix the issue. This is a tool that will save you so much money.

http://www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiScan-MS300-Diagnostic-Vehicles/dp/B001LHVOVK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395692484&sr=8-1&keywords=obd+2+scanner

Jacks stands - Not so important but pick up some cheap jack stands

http://www.amazon.com/Torin-T43002A-Double-Locking-Jack/dp/B00026Z3E0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395692837&sr=8-1&keywords=jack+stands

Light - And a very helpful thing is a good light

http://www.amazon.com/Bayco-SL-1002-Halogen-Project-Light/dp/B000FW7UH4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1395692872&sr=8-2&keywords=work+lights

I use a Big Red motorcycle jack that I also use to jack the wife's car for oil changes (with jack stands, of course). Got it on sale from Harbor Freight for about $49 years ago, they go for around $89 now.

Once you get the plastic off you can simply jack the bike using almost any jack, pivoting on rear wheel and sidestand (making sure bike is in gear so it doesn't roll). Then remove calipers, axle, and take wheel off. If you can manage to lift it without taking plastic off (as in the video below) that would be good as well.

You'll get told not to let the calipers hang by the hoses... so don't let calipers hang by the hoses.

This video shows front/rear removal, front starts about 3:45.

If you have the stock took kit it might provide what you need. Allen/hex wrench for the axle pinch bolts and the plug socket might fit the axle. Otherwise the guy in the video gives advice on a tool to get the axle out.

If you don't have much in the way of automotive tools, it's going to be an allen wrench set (for the pinch bolts), 22 or 24mm axle tool (or plug socket the appropriate mm end), valve core tool (some valve stem caps have a core remover end), bead breaker, and spoons.

If you have a gearhead friend they'd almost certainly have everything you need except maybe the axle tool (a correct plug socket possibly) and spoons. Walmart has a spoon set for about $19.

When you get to the actual tire removal/install, it's all about technique. The tire can be a bear to get off unless you keep the bead opposite from the side you're working on in the center well. Same is true when installing the new tire. I use a big C-clamp to keep the opposite beads together and it keeps the bead in the center of the wheel. Also, it might help to lay the new tire out in the sun as you begin the project. Warming it helps make it flexible.

Air... you're going to need to air the new tire enough to seat the beads. This can be about 60psi or more so prepare for that. If the new tire beads won't seat while you're airing it up, you may have to bounce the wheel/tire to get the beads to contact the side of the rim long enough to contain air. This can get very frustrating. A compressor helps because with a large volume of air it doesn't require the bead to contact very long, it almost immediately seals the tire and begins to seat the bead.

My tire change from a couple of days ago.

edit: all that and I forgot, most tires are directional. One of the tire change photos points that out. Having done this many times, like anything else trying to tell someone how it's done, many steps get left out because after so many iterations much of it is done unconsciously. Make sure you have a tire gauge handy. Some people get crazy about balancing, I don't balance but do line the yellow dot (if there's a dot) with the valve stem.

I actually got this set . They go under the back and it keeps the whole thing pretty stable. I do like your idea more. It’s the one thing I feel like can definitely improve upon right now. One sharp movement or forget to chock the wheels and I’m rolling right off the stands I’ve got

Do yourself a favor and get a motorycyle lift. A damn good investment, I assure you. Makes cleaning and maintenance much,much easier. Especially cleaning and lubing the chain.

Having the bike lifted of the ground would be great for winter time storage, as well, as it will take pressure of the suspension and tires; allowing you to avoid getting flat spots on the tires from sitting for a long time.

Plus, bikes looks cool af on a lift.

Two things I'd reccomend.

1. use quality jackstands. A jack can leak and fail, don't trust your life to them.
   
   
2. the Tesla is heavier than a normal car of the same size, don't buy under a 3ton jack. I would most likely jack up with a single point and lower it onto stands to do the roto. (see edits below, as i don't want to deviate too far from what the MFG suggests in regards to lift point warnings)
   
   Other than that a car jack is a pretty straightforward buy. Picked this one up a few years back at a local shop, for about 145.
   
   
   Pittsburgh Automotive 3 Ton Heavy Duty Ultra Low Profile Steel Floor Jack with Rapid Pump Quick Lift https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LR753T8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.yfsDbB1HFPPP
   
   
   E: user below pointed out there are specific jack pads you can buy. I've had success on every car I've owned with just folding a shop rag and placing that on the jack cup prior to lifting the vehicle. This prevents any slippage and will grip better than the jack on the raw lift point.
   
   E2: I did some more digging and found that the jack points on the model 3 are jackpoint compatible. It would make sense to use recommended pucks and stands that fit the jackpoint hole. You could use something like this with relative ease. http://www.jackpointjackstands.com/home.html Note that i dont own them nor do i work for them.
   
   These are also pretty slick: https://safejacks.com/collections/compact-jack-stands/products/the-rennstand-by-safe-jack-single-unit
   
   It seems to be the consensus that you should only use the 4 designated lift points as the crossmembers are not available to you underneath the vehicle, so you cant get the front up on a single point. This means the jack will occupy the space you need to put the jack stand. Hence the reasoning for linking the two jackable stands.

I live in a 1br in a walk up as well. KangarooCornchips pretty well covered it although I just stick with one good torque wrench, a big adjustable, a cheap Stanley socket set, vice grip, and a flip out hex and torx set. A good JIS screwdriver would be useful too.
Don’t forget there should be a cheap oem toolkit stashed somewhere on the bike, not that it’s enough.

The only thing directly motorcycle related I’ve needed was a cheap jack similar to this
https://www.amazon.com/LiftMaster-Motorcycle-Center-Scissor-Hoist/dp/B01NCT4IKW/
It’s not too heavy to haul downstairs although it is annoying

I’ve been able to do everything from valve clearances to swingarm replacements in my complex’s covered parking lot. The only problem is running back and forth for all the bulky peripheral things like cans of penetrating fluid or degreaser or an oil jug.

I suggest u amazon impact sockets (mm not sae) and deep impact sockets both in 1/2 instead of normal ones (I wish I did this =/ ). also buy a pipe that will go over the breaker bar to extend it. Unless workout like MMA fighter, u will need it

I also have this.

And a socket to drill adapter, makes life really easy. Even to just use scissor jack with.

Great! I bet if you look under the car, behind the front wheel or in front of the rear wheel, inside of the side skirts or other plastic moulding, right near the pinch welds, you'll see some triangle arrows stamped/marked/notched out.

Also, you may be interested in something like this for your jack:

https://www.amazon.com/DEDC-Universal-Slotted-Rubber-Medium/dp/B01MA232WY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1510856163&sr=8-3&keywords=pinch+weld+jack+pad

i got something similar

i would recommend double-sided tape to keep them in place. other than that i'm happy i got them

i also got this adapter so i can use my floor jack easier

Extreme Max 5001.5044 Wide Motorcycle Scissor Jack - 1100 lb. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196PAZ1S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_rGt1Ab1YM58V5
I have this and it works perfectly for me. It lifts the bike tall enough to change your tires and stable enough too. And it's easy to store when you are not using it.

No kidding. I was amazed when I found out that you can get one of these for like $40.
http://www.amazon.com/Powerzone-380033-Steel-Floor-Jack/dp/B003UM42J0/ref=sr_1_6/191-5799343-8330658?ie=UTF8&qid=1406656029&sr=8-6&keywords=car+jack

Or you can do things the easy way and get a couple of these if you just want under the car...not so great for changing a tire.

http://www.amazon.com/RhinoGear-11909-RhinoRamps-Vehicle-Capacity/dp/B006EGAIII/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406656071&sr=8-1&keywords=wheel+ramps

I've got this (Extreme Max Wide Motorcycle Scissor Jack - 1100 lb. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196PAZ1S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KPQEzbC5ZMP4Q). It's been pretty useful for chain stuff and other work I've done on the bike.

However, I got a Triumph center stand from a neighbor for cheap, so the jack doesn't get much use anymore. I'm on a bonneville, but I'd recommend a center stand to anyone. It's very convenient.

I've taken my 390 engine out like 5 times with a scissor lift from Amazon that was like $70 bucks, it's rated up to like 1000lbs or something

Edit: Extreme Max 5001.5044 Wide Motorcycle Scissor Jack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196PAZ1S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dV3PCbWV6FQBJ

Okay, so I am looking at getting a car still and want to try and do some of my own work.

When you jack up the car, what do are you supposed to use (if you don't have one of those big lifts)? [Something like this?](http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000CMFN4E/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB](http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000CMFN4E/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB)[Or this?](http://www.amazon.ca/Torin-T42002-Jack-Stands-Pairs/dp/B0028JQYPG/ref=pd_rhf_dp_s_cp_3_4HVK?ie=UTF8&refRID=15QJZ8WECKR5ASTT53JC) And how many would I need, like just to lift one side of the car (so 2)?

This is the guide I followed for replacing my transmission & differential oil. Had to educate myself on jack safety on Youtube as well. First time doing any type of mechanic work and hoping to do more in the near future :0)


Had to go back to the hardware store to return my original floor jack I bought since it was too large to mount to the two main jacking points. Got a low profile jack at a Harbor Freight store instead.


Which begs the question - where do people usually jack up cars that are lowered (springs/coilovers) besides the two main obvious spots shown in the manual? This low profile jack barely clears all the way to the front main jack point. This is without using a car lift at the jack stand points.

Pretty happy with these

Center stand

https://www.amazon.com/Extreme-Max-5001-5047-Motorcycle-Scissors/dp/B0196PAYP0/ref=sr_1_6?gclid=CjwKCAiAh5_uBRA5EiwASW3IasIMFnQo804LL3aB58Yweypspqprui5NqOiEkxn20Mir9FRR-Q6fDxoCs8kQAvD_BwE&hvadid=241914105244&hvdev=t&hvlocphy=9032437&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=14079434640772928100&hvtargid=kwd-1194916088&hydadcr=24631_10399647&keywords=motorcycle+scissor+jack&qid=1573447187&sr=8-6

$70 bucks now will save you hundreds in shop fees. From changing your oil to pulling your tire to get it changed.

An oil change in your garage using HD supplied oil might run you $35 for oil/filter

And get yourself a shop manual. There is so much you can do on your own with some basic hand tools!

I'll spare you the long rundown and assume you're aware of the dangers of a Hi-lift jack. Long story short, they can be awesome, or awesomely dangerous if you don't know exactly what you're doing (people have died). That said, if you still want one, and you really want to blow his mind, then there are a couple "musts", such as:

1. Don't buy an offbrand.
   
   
2. The 48" Hi-Lift Extreme jack fits really nicely in the back of the 3rd Gen.
   
   
3. You absolutely have to buy tie downs or a mounting system for it; otherwise it becomes insanely dangerous in an accident. A guy on the T4R website makes amazing mounts that beautifully fit a 48" hijack mount across the back (check it out here)
   
   Source: I also own a lifted 1999 4Runner on 32"s

I use these jackstands and they are absolutely amazing. They make the other "best" jackstands sold at big box stores look puny in comparison. The only drawbacks are they're expensive (~$65/ea) and the lowest lift height is equivalent to around middle of the way up on normal/smaller jackstands.

http://www.amazon.com/ESCO-10498-Jack-Stand-Capacity/dp/B0019JVIPM

This is a great detailed review which is what turned me on to Esco: http://revlimiter.net/blog/2010/07/mega-jack-stand-review-1/

Right on the crosstrek looks great too! I sort my gear by bags like these and keep everything under the rear seats in the cab. I have one bag with a socket set, a few wrenches, screw drivers. One bag with various grease, pb blaster, jb weld, and anti-seize. One bag with air compressor hose end bits, tire deflators and pressure gauge, hi-lift slider adapter, and trailer hitch pin. One bag with a few beer koozies, spare batteries, and a handful of cheap headlamps

Aside from those things in the bags I have an air compressor hose, air compressor is probably the thing I use the most often. Hi-lift has not been needed for the Colorado yet. I upgraded my headlights with the Retrofit source HID kit for the Colorado it is awesome. I also always have a cheap cooler in the bed usually loaded with gatorades for my crew when it’s damn hot out.

I lack a good first aid kit. But that’s about everything that always stays in my truck, been building the load out for a few years now and I have used it all on the trails in my old xterra never missed anything

I have this https://www.amazon.com/Extreme-Max-5001-5044-Motorcycle-Scissor/dp/B0196PAZ1S and I'm happy with it. If you go with it buy a 7/8 deep socket and leave it on the stand for easy adjustments

I've got the big heavy expensive one from sears in the garage along with a couple of $20 walmart specials. Honestly I use the walmart specials 9 times out of 10 because they are so light and easy to grab.

With that in mind I'd look for something aluminum and light weight. 3ton is still going to be heavy but you can get [this one]
(https://www.amazon.com/Arcan-ALJ3T-Aluminum-Floor-Jack/dp/B0047D2FWM) that's about half the weight of a standard steel one like this one.

I just got a set of 4 of these and they are the premium option. My set was $133 but from a shady online dealer usa tool (had to wait a month but got them). Feels amazing to be under a car not propped by my shady stands https://www.amazon.com/ESCO-10498-Jack-Stand-Capacity/dp/B0019JVIPM

You can also use an easy roller, something tow trucker driver use to pull a car out of tight spot or garages use to move cars around easy. One guy could have used 4 of em but there like 100 dollars a pop at least. Maybe he works in that industry?
Edit: https://www.amazon.com/OTC-Tools-1580-Stinger-Roller/dp/B000O1E4WU

This is way better, albeit $65, it makes life easy. raise it up until its just below your bike frame, slide it under, crank it 10 times, and you're off the ground. easy peasy.

I bought this one off amazon and it has worked great. It’s compact and inexpensive.
Zeny 1100 LB Motorcycle Center Scissor Lift Jack Hoist Stand Bikes ATVs (#01) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01860HLCU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_Vo3KRPVWIXCJz

I like ESCO flat tops, particularly in cases where the vehicle has a flat jack pad:

https://www.amazon.com/ESCO-10498-Jack-Stand-Capacity/dp/B0019JVIPM

The base is completely different, allowing for a much wider array of uses, as is the additional top jaw.

They do, however charge $149.55 for the 'conversion kit'

http://firstresponder.hi-lift.com/resources/First_Responder_Conversion_Kit_Flyer.pdf

This is a better comparison:
http://smile.amazon.com/Hi-Lift-Jack-XT485-48-X-TREME/dp/B0017T7WHW/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1464054291&sr=1-1&keywords=hi-lift+xtreme

where it has the additional top jaw, at that point it's $100 for paint, stickers and a base.

Tire iron kit,
Bead buddy (helps when taking the tire off), Lift (this has worked well for my KLR, combine with a couple of jack stands for more stability)

Other things that help: rubber mallet, needle nose pliers, SERVICE MANUAL, torque wrenches.

I love my Esco stands

I debated between ramps and jack stands for my C. I ended up getting these jack stands for $16 (now $20). They're cheaper than ramps, easier to use (no worry of driving up/off of the ramps) and I can rotate the tires while changing the oil, too. The V is about 3,300 lb, so the 2 ton jacks should be fine, but the 3 ton ones are only $26 if it makes you feel better.

Get some car jack stands under the server, then undo the cage nuts. Easy extract, and you get bonus jack stands when you're done.

They look like Esco Jack stands. I've been wondering myself what the quality is like.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/ESCO-10498-Jack-Stand-Capacity/dp/B0019JVIPM&ved=0ahUKEwiL1O_TjYTUAhXBOSYKHX5MALcQFgiDATAA&usg=AFQjCNHSLQYguOkfpvniLtj_F2FU1z_CVQ&sig2=TsPmFQEQy9UW2kc_5CpCaw

Not cheap, but of the several kinds I own, these are my favorite.

ESCO 10498 Jack Stand, 3 Ton Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019JVIPM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LASlzbAFRVNNE

Good man! I was going to ask this, I use mine in the desert to jack off to (you know what I mean!) I use this adapter with my hi lift jack -

https://www.amazon.com/Lotus-Development-Slider-Adapter-Locking/dp/B00F4HX9FW

I would like to start changing the oil on my car (potentially on my parent's too) so does anyone have the link to that floor jack post from a couple days ago, if there was one? I have a 2000 Celica GTS, if you want to recommend anything here. I was thinking this with these jack stands, but that jack is expensive for me. I just don't want to have a car on my face.

Also, what are some other jack points/ jack stand positions other than the ones on the side of the car for the scissor jack?

I hate referencing amazon, but this is probably all you need. $20 and it might save your life. link: jack stands

Something like this would do fine: https://www.amazon.com/Torin-T10152-Scissor-Jack-1-5/dp/B004PX8BC2

Not sure how that would work. How would you lift the bike onto the stands? Lifts are relatively low cost and you can get a dedicated one at Harbor Freight or use what I use which is a simple scissor jack. You can certainly get the scissor jack for cheaper since they're quite common. Also check a local auto parts store to see if they have loaner/rental of jacks.

you can replace your friends with http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O1E4WU/

Glad insurance covered it.

I use this for the pinch weld jack points.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SR1TW2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Don't be cheap with raising your car up, seriously. What's saving 30 bucks when your life is at stake? 25 bucks at amazon for a pair of 3 ton stands.

Please do not use blocks of wood.

On our older cars, I've always changed my oil myself; I use a pair of plastic car ramps to make it easy. I bought them locally for around $30 maybe ten years ago. It costs around $2.50 for an oil filter and roughly $8 to $10 for four quarts of oil (sometimes you can get oil for $1 per quart if you watch sales at Menards).

The idea is to simply drive your car up onto the ramps, get underneath, remove the filter and oil plug, drain the old oil into a pan, pour that into a milk jug for recycling, replace the oil plug and put the new filter on, and pour in new oil. It takes maybe ten minutes; a bit longer if it's cold since the oil drains more slowly.

On our new car, however, our service contract includes six years of oil changes, so I just have it done at the dealership for free....

Actually, they do make adapters that will fit onto the pinch welds. Link: https://www.amazon.com/Saddle-Adapter-Rocker-DP-Company/dp/B01N1ID2KZ or https://www.amazon.com/DEDC-Universal-Slotted-Rubber-Protector/dp/B01MA232WY/ref=pd_bxgy_2/139-4332485-1348812?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01MA232WY&pd_rd_r=73a3427b-60bf-11e9-b2ef-bb2ae37525d6&pd_rd_w=X1N83&pd_rd_wg=tRvUY&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=C93C6VH3BXPWX027P1JQ&psc=1&refRID=C93C6VH3BXPWX027P1JQ Lexus/Toyota write their manuals assuming that you will take your car to a mechanic. I have a Corolla myself and I do all of my own work.

That said, I do have a jack (actually 3), jack stands, and wheel chocks (My car is a manual transmission). I will never work on a car with just the scissor jack.

Edit: One additional line.

I bought this a couple of months ago for a rear shock swap on my Road Glide and it worked perfectly: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0196PAZ1S?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

I actually think this is a great idea. Maybe something like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017T7WHW

Something like this works fairly well... it's basically a 3/4" hex wrench that fits snugly over the jack:

https://www.amazon.ca/Camco-57363-Leveling-Scissor-Socket/dp/B001V8U12M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511197626&sr=8-1&keywords=scissor+jack+socket

Yup. They pop off and then the jack can get to the pinch weld. Make sure to use a pinch weld adapter if you are using a normal floor jack.

The lugs are the same size(21mm) and the jack will work, the Prius hasn't gotten much heavier in the past few years. So any tire iron that's 21mm will work, and any jack that is rated to lift 3100lb will work.

However if I had a chance, I would get an aftermarket jack that will be more reliable than the stock ones. This looks like a good option. Hell, put that together with this wrench and you'll be set. Can't get much cheaper than $30 for this stuff.

I got these a while back.https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CO86BY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_bcStybKPMP9EB. They feel really solid. More than enough for my 2 ton Acura specially when I'm only lifting up one side. But never hurts to be cautious i suppose.

harbor freight has 3 ton jack stand for $21 a pair right now. I would have bought them but their locking mechanism is shit imo. I got these instead still waiting for them to be delivered https://www.amazon.com/Torin-T43002A-Double-Locking-Stands/dp/B00026Z3E0. Going to put concrete blocks under the tires too when I lift the car up. Just bought some nice solid rubber chocks at Harbor freight for like $7.99 each, way better than the flo tools crap one's. Then went next store to advance auto parts and bought a 2-ton jack that was on sale for $24.99, that I have yet to open.

You're probably okay to do as you describe. You may wish to get a rubber piece or some wood to prevent damage to the pinch weld though.

I have a piece like this: https://www.amazon.com/DEDC-Universal-Slotted-rubber-MEDIUM/dp/B01MA232WY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497976672&sr=8-1&keywords=jack++pinch+weld

In practice though I use my jack for the front cross member without issue. It scrapes the plastic skirts a bit getting under there but it goes.

> In that case, then the only way he could have moved it was with a tow truck, like this

This is not true. Could have been done with 4 of these:

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-Tools-1580-Stinger-Roller/dp/B000O1E4WU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mush3hNbnmY

Here you go

Your wheel is probably not thick enough, these are worth the price.

They sell a floor jack at Costco from Arcan for $100.

This is it or similar ($249 on Amazon): https://www.amazon.com/Arcan-ALJ3T-Aluminum-Floor-Jack/dp/B0047D2FWM

I consider a jack a safety item which is not something to skimp on. That said, you don't have to blow the bank either.

Costco doesn't always have the jack in stock but Arcan jacks usually last a long, long time.

Remember, they are just stabilizers, not jacks. They just help take out some of the bounce. You can pick up a bit for your drill so you can use a cordless drill for raising and lowering.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Leveling-Scissor-Adapter-57363/dp/B001V8U12M/

I picked up this one from Amazon for $100 w/prime shipping

Solid deal right now https://www.amazon.com/Pittsburgh-Automotive-Heavy-Ultra-Profile/dp/B00LR753T8/ref=sr_1_5?crid=13F47ITVMCJXO&keywords=jack+lift+car&qid=1572704169&refinements=p_72%3A2661618011&rnid=2661617011&sprefix=jack+lift%2Caps%2C130&sr=8-5

Here…

$18 for a pair of 3 ton stands shouldn't break the bank.

Torin T10152 Big Red Steel Scissor Jack, 1.5 Ton Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004PX8BC2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_W5puzbYSS6Q5W


This'll'do'er

wheel dollies...greatest prank tool ever

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-1580-Stinger-Roller-Dolly/dp/B000O1E4WU

edit:

since a lot of folks apparently aren't familiar with how these things operate:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=i5evHL7jtTM#t=86s

Just get these. They'll come in handy.

Extreme Max 5001.5044 5001.5044... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196PAZ1S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Floor jack + tire skates = relocating his car to the very furthest parking space in the lot in less than 5 minutes.

I use on of these.

I prefer ones with a safety lock. I read a story here about some guy who knocked the release bar and crushed himself.

http://www.amazon.com/Torin-T43002A-Double-Locking-Jack/dp/B00026Z3E0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1382276522&sr=8-1&keywords=jack+stands

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028JQYPG/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_OQmAub18JM8GV

Put this at the other end:

https://www.amazon.com/Torin-Big-Steel-Jack-Stands/dp/B000CO86BY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520369095&sr=8-1&keywords=jackstand

Should be sturdy enough...

Every jack stand rating I've seen is for a pair. Here's my Craftsman 2 1/4 ton stands, for example(look in the warning section). Some Harbor Freight stands. These stands on Amazon also specifically state their rating is for the pair.

I took the rubber pads off my footpegs and then I flipped my footpegs upside down and put a Jack Stand underneath each one, the bike will balance back and forth I propped up each side with some random stuff laying around (i used a bucket and a spray paint can lol)

​

It's def jerry rigged together, but a quick and cheap fix, also it's extremely sturdy.

Not trying to be a jerk, but buy some jack stands. They're cheap and wayyyyy safer than keeping a vehicle on a jack. Jack vehicle up, insert jack stand, put vehicle down on jack stand. Fucker isn't going to move after that! (DON'T use the jack stand as shown in the amazon pictures, that's a great way to fuck up your body work. Put it under a frame member!)

Or, like my old truck, you could just reach in over the front tire to replace the oil filter, and combined with a fumoto valve on the drain plug you have a no tools oil change! (Unless a drain pan counts as a tool, of course.)

http://www.amazon.com/RhinoGear-11930-Hugger-Wheel-Chock/dp/B000BQYH6Q


http://www.amazon.com/Torin-T43002A-Double-Locking-Jack/dp/B00026Z3E0

Cheaper than a funeral!

These if you plan on leaving them up for any extended amount of time. The ones you posted I use as secondary backups in case the mains fail. I want to avoid getting crushed to death if possible.