I have some recommendations and suggestions. I know there's a lot of info, but you should know this if you want to get more value for your money. I ran out of space before I could cover everything, so just ask me if you have questions.

Headphones

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The first thing you should determine is whether you need sound isolation or not.

• Open-back: the earcups have perforations/openings that allow sound to freely pass through. The benefits to this is generally a larger soundstage and better imaging. This can also help if your ears tend to sweat.
  
  
• Closed-back: the earcups have solid shells that isolate sound from passing through to various extent.
  
   
  
  Next, you should figure out which sound signature you prefer.
  
  
• Balanced/flat/neutral: doesn't over- or under-emphasize the bass or treble.
  
• Warm: emphasizes the bass.
  
• Dark: recesses the treble. A headphone can be warm and dark.
  
• Bright: emphasizes the treble.
  
• U-shape: emphasizes the bass and treble a little.
  
• V-shape: emphasizes the bass and treble more than U-shaped.
  
• Mid-forward: the mids are louder than the bass and treble. The mids may be emphasized or the bass and treble may be recessed.
  
  Sub-bass is how deep the bass goes and is where rumble comes from.
  
  Mid-bass is where impact/slam comes from.
  
  Generally, for competitive shooters, as little bass as possible is favorable because bass overpowers or overshadows footsteps and other sound cues.
  
   
  
  Lastly, you should know what sound characteristics constitute positional audio and pertain to immersion.
  
  
• Soundstage: is produced by the headphone, not the game. It's perceived space and environment of sound. It's the size of the sound field around you. A small soundstage makes the environment around you sound confined or boxed in. With a large soundstage, the environment sounds much more spatial, open and natural. You can't comprehend it without experiencing it.
  
  
• Imaging: is inherent to the audio content. It's how accurately the locations of sounds/objects are reproduced.
  
  
• Separation: is how you discern individual sounds from a range of overlapping sounds. This is only important in competitive shooters.
  
   
  
  Personal headphone recommendations:
  
  
• Audio-Technica ATH-AD700X (open-back):
  
  has recessed sub-bass and emphasized treble. Has clean bass and a little harsh treble. Has a huge soundstage, excellent imaging, separation and clarity, and great detail retrieval.
  
  
• Beyerdynamic DT990 (600 ohms) (open-back):
  
  has recessed sub-bass, emphasized mid-bass, and very emphasized treble. Has clean bass and a little splashy or overly sparkly treble. Has a huge soundstage and excellent imaging, separation, clarity and detail retrieval.
  
  
• Philips Fidelio X2 (open-back):
  
  has emphasized sub-bass, mid-bass and treble. Has clean bass and smooth treble. The soundstage is very wide, like the others I've mentioned, but it lacks some depth. It's probably only noticeable if you play competitively or compare it side-by-side with headphones that are deeper. This affects the imaging from front to back. The imaging from left to right is excellent. Separation and clarity are excellent. Detail retrieval is great, but bass overpowers sound cues a lot.
  
  
• Sennheiser HD598 (open-back):
  
  is mid-forward and has recessed sub-bass. Has clean bass, smooth treble, and excellent clarity. I haven't used it much, so my impressions are that it has a large soundstage and good imaging, separation and detail retrieval.
  
  

  
  

  
  I also compare to AKG K52, AKG Q701, Audeze LCD-2 Classic, HiFiMan HE400i (the revision), HiFiMan HE-500, HyperX Cloud, Monoprice Monolith M1060, Philips SHP9500, Sennheiser HD700, Sennheiser HD800, Superlux HD662 EVO, Superlux HD668B, Superlux HD669, Superlux HD681 EVO, Tritton Pro+ and Turtle Beach Ear Force XP Seven.
  
  My evaluations are based on games, not music. I test headphones mostly in BF:BC2, BF3, BF4 and R6S.
  
   
  
  Alternatives:
  
  Open-back
  
  

• AKG K612 Pro
  
• AKG K701
  
• AKG K702
  
• Audio-Technica ATH-AD900x
  
• Beyerdynamic DT880
  
• Sennheiser Game One (headset)
  
• Sennheiser HD558/HD579
  
• Sennheiser HD599
  
  Closed-back
  
  
• AKG K550
  
• Audio Technica ATH-MSR7
  
• Beyerdynamic Custom One Pro Plus
  
• Beyerdynamic DT770
  
• Sennheiser Game Zero (headset)
  
• V-MODA Crossfade M-100
  
   
  
  

  Microphones
  

  
  ---
  
  

  
  

  
  Attachable to headphones
  
  

• Antlion ModMic
  
• Massdrop Minimic
  
• V-MODA BoomPro
  
  Alternatives
  
  
• Audio-Technica AT2020USB
  
• Blue Snowball
  
• Blue Yeti
  
• Neewer Clip on Mini Lapel Microphone
  
• Samson Go
  
• Sony ECMCS3
  
• Zalman ZM-Mic1
  
   
  
  

  Setup
  

  
  ---
  
  

  
  

  
  Antlion ModMic and Massdrop Minimic are compatible with all headphones.
  
  V-MODA BoomPro is compatible with Philips Fidelio X2 and V-MODA Crossfade M-100 of the aforementioned headphones.
  
   
  
  You can connect the headphone and mic to the PS4 by using an audio USB adapter. The one I linked has separate jacks for the headphone and mic, so in order to use it with V-MODA BoomPro, you need a Y-splitter, which is included with the mic. The other 3.5mm mics have an own cable, so there's no need for a Y-splitter.
  
  USB mics, like AT2020USB, Snowball and Yeti, connect directly to the PS4.
  
  If the cables aren't long enough, then just use an aux extension cable or a USB extension cable.
  
   
  
  The PS4 isn't capable of powering all headphones sufficiently, so you may need a sound card or a headphone amplifier and a DAC (digital-to-analog converter). A Sound card has an amp and a DAC built in and sacrifice sound quality for features. You need a DAC because USB and optical are digital signals and PS4 has no analog outputs. There's a common problem with reversed left and right channels when using USB DACs, so I'll only list DACs with optical. I'll only list USB sound cards that officially support PS4.
  
  Power isn't just impedance dependent, it's also sensitivity dependent, which many new to this hobby overlook. If a headphone has a low impedance rating and a high sensitivity rating, it will be very easy to drive. If a headphone has a high impedance rating and a high sensitivity rating, it should be easy to drive. If a headphone has a high impedance rating and a low sensitivity rating, it will be hard to drive. If a headphone has a low impedance rating and a low sensitivity rating, it will be very hard to drive.
  
  There's no consensus on where 'high' impedance starts at. I've read/heard anywhere from 50 ohms to 300 ohms. For sensitivity, there are two different measurements used for this: SPL/mW and SPL/V. 100 dB SPL/mW and 110 SPL/V are considered high.
  
  If you don't want to ever deal with this, then I recommend just getting a very powerful sound card or amp, e.g. Creative Sound BlasterX G5 or Schiit Magni 3.
  
  Audio-Technica ATH-AD700X, Philips Fidelio X2 and Sennheiser HD598 are very loud for me out of the controller or by using an audio USB adapter. The 600-ohm version of Beyerdynamic DT990 is too quiet.
  
  

  
  

  
  Mics generally don't work with amps, so you'll have to connect it to an audio USB adapter, or to the controller with a TRRS Y-splitter. You recognize them by the three black rings on their connector. You need to use the included Y-splitter with V-MODA BoomPro.
  
  With a sound card, you can use both the headphone and mic with it. You need a TRRS Y-splitter if the mic has a separate cable.
  
  To connect a separate amp to a DAC, you need RCA cables.
  
  

  
  

  
  Sound cards:
  
  

• Astro MixAmp Pro TR
  
• Creative Sound BlasterX G1
  
• Creative Sound BlasterX G5
  
• Turtle Beach Elite Pro TAC
  
  

  
  

  
  Amps and DACs:
  
  

• Audioengine D1 (both)
  
• FiiO D3 (DAC)
  
• FX Audio DAC-X6 (both)
  
• Mayflower ARC (both)
  
• Micca OriGen G2 (both)
  
• Schiit Magni 3 (amp)
  
• Schiit Modi 2 Uber (DAC)
  
• SMSL SD793-II (both)
  
• Topping A30 (amp)
  
• D30 (DAC)

This will be my second time typing this out, since I hit the fucking Browser-Back shortcut on my mouse.

I wouldn't recommend the Koss Plugs as a set of mixing phones, even while travelling. The clarity is simply nonexistant. My suggestion is just to use them as a second pair to check out your bassline before you finalize a track. For something more balanced, you might want to set aside an hour or two and drag your eyeballs over this thread over at head-fi.

As an off-the-cuff recommendation, Velodyne vPulse have gained quite a reputation in the under-$150 category. they have plenty of bass output, but it's much tighter than the Koss, no muddiness. They also get plenty of compliments on the detail in the midrange/treble.

/r/Audiophile is a great resource, as is /r/Headphones, but to save yourself from shame, I will tell you ahead of time, anything called a soundcard will almost certainly get you laughed out.

Puts on top hat and monocle, raising a cup of tea with the pinky out

>A gentleman uses a DAC with a seperate Headphone Amplifier.

In all fairness a soundcard is nothing but a DAC with a built-on amp, though the integrated amp circuits are terrible, in terms of audio reproduction.

You can get a DAC and feed an amp with it, or you can get a DAC/Amp combo, which is a popular place to begin, and is a great solution for a personal digital studio, especially if you use your laptop as a creative device away from home. The most recommended (for good reason) is the FiiO e7. It performes both the DAC and amplifier functions, as well as including an input jack and a battery so you can stick it in your pocket and connect it to your ipod/phone/whatever and increase the quality of your portable listening as well (This bypasses the DAC and only uses the amp). The only drawback to the e7 is that the amp is kind of puny. Mind you it is still more powerful than whatever is built into your devices, but it can leave you wanting if you have some high-end, high-impedance headphones. To solve that, you can either get a FiiO e9 amplifier to leave on your desk and dock the e7 to when you are at home, or you can pick up a FiiO e17 which is almost identical to the e7, but with more juice to the amp. You mentioned a speaker setup at home, so you would also want a FiiO l7 line out plug so you could run the un-amped output of the DAC to your speakers. Keep in mind, none of this passes as "Audiophile grade" hardware, but it's certainly (digital) studio quality.

All in all, an e7 and a pair of vPulse IEMs would set you back about $150, give you the low-end you need, a full-up system you could pack in your pocket while you're on the move, and also boost the quality of your 8400's, and whatever monitors you choose at home.

I'll get off my soapbox now. Hopefully that gives you a head start on your research.

.

.

.

^tiny ^disclaimer: I don't work for FiiO, I'm not trying to sell you FiiO stuff, I don't even use FiiO myself. They just have a great reputation, and market at a reasonable price-range.

I think I'll just take my Nokia 1616 with me. It's a bare bones, go-phone that I popped my SIM card into. It only has an 800mAh battery, but doesn't have any data connection whatsoever (purely GSM), and lasts usually 3-6 days with me calling and texting a usual amount. It weighs < 78.5g, and has a standby time of 540 hours. With minimal talking and texting (I'm wanting disconnectivity), I should get at least 2 weeks/charge.

The reason the filter is in there is that it's the easiest means of physically removing microbes, but given the price, I think I might stick with a standard 2 or 3 liter Platypus + chemicals (Aquamira, no iodine).

I meant to remove the light, I was kinda looking for LED lamps, but cherryhammer recommended that I look for a certain type at Target. And the RidgeRest (very average, I know) is a roll-up type; however, I fit rolls in my backpack, so I'll just have to see if there's sufficient space. And with the Z seat being 2 oz, I'm happy to have a little more convenience and comfort.

And I'm thinking I want the three, even if I don't fill it up fully ever. The difference between a 2 liter and a 3 liter is just a few grams. I'm sure the Northern summer portion will definitely make it worthwhile.

And I'm stoked I found that product at that price! For reference for anybody, it's the Ultralight Backpacking Canister Camp Stove with Piezo Ignition. It's $15, weighs 3.9 oz, fits "with any screw top butane / propane canisters, available just about anywhere, MSR, coleman, camping gaz, etc.", and this is what one user showed at a 5% and a 95% flame. I have no affiliation with the company, but seriously, go read the reviews. I might make a can stove(s) and bring alcohol with me, just for easier refilling and weight's sake.

My pack is water-resistant to some degree, but I'm not gonna risk it. I've been in snowy conditions, never rain, but there was condensation on the inside of my pack, and it actually frosted/froze a bit, which I'm sure compromised the strength of the waterproofing.

I've since scrapped the pants (mostly everybody has suggested so), and now have just the 1 pair of liners, and added another pair of mesh shorts, for a grand total of two.

Many thanks for your insight!

I can't answer all of it, but I don't think lossless files necessarily have poor metadata support. It may just be that the sources you are getting these files from didn't bother with it.

If you have an apple i-phone it probably sounds better because it has a good built in DAC, some other phones may have this too, or it may just be that your computer isn't set up properly

yes a better soundcard can increase your sound quality, but you're probably better off buying an external DAC and using a WASAPI output. [Chart] I have a Fiio E17 and im getting a Aune T1 soon :)

As far as headphones i recommend a pair of Sennheiser 598's for $250 or if that's too pricey the Audio-Technica ATH-M50's are a great pair of phones for $160

A lot of this stuff goes on sale occasionally, there was recently a sale for the Fiio DAC where it was only $90. I'd recommend signing up for massdrop.com and looking for some good deals there and elsewhere

Oh right, well, in case you haven't actually done an overnighter, just expect some bumps, especially if you haven't encountered adverse conditions, say overnight in the rain, or whatever. I guess that's part of the fun.

I have been using an MSR pocket rocket and I like it a lot. As long as it's not super cold where you are, it should work fine. If you want to shed weight, you can try an alcohol stove. I can't speak to it's effectiveness yet, but I'm experimenting with a DIY "super cat" stove on my next trip. But if having hot food is vital to the enjoyment of your trip, you may want to stick with something fool proof like the pocket rocket on your first few multiday trips. If you want to save a few bucks you might try this $6 pocket rocket knock off. http://www.amazon.com/Ultralight-Backpacking-Canister-Ignition-silvery/dp/B004U8CP88/

For water filtration, I bring a sawyer squeeze and aqua mira drops as a backup. Just make sure if you go somewhere where it's freezing, to keep the filter on you to keep it warm. If I was buying something today, I'd get the sawyer mini. Both are 0.1 micron, have a fantastic life span and are easy to operate.

I hike without a beacon but I don't get too far out there either. Just be sure to let someone you trust know when and where you're leaving and when and where you're getting back, and any other details about your trip that you may be able to provide. You probably already know this. Just get out there and see how it goes.

From my experience of being a poor college student who loves the outdoors, take advantage of bargain gear, Craigslist, and thrift stores. Yes, if you buy titanium cookware, an ultralight 4 season tent, and a 0.2 micron purifier you will be good to go, but you will also have an empty wallet.


Some good cheap items that I still use today from time to time:

Stanley Cook Pot from Target/Walmart: This $12-$15 foldable cook pot will snugly fit a small fuel canister and this stove http://www.amazon.com/Leegoal-Ultralight-Backpacking-Canister-Ignition/dp/B004U8CP88/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1451241733&sr=8-2&keywords=backpacking+stove+piezo , plus some aluminum foil and seasoning packets, etc. Find a bowl and cup for cheap and bring some top ramen and oatmeal packets (plus some freeze dried veggies, fruit, and jerky) and you have an entire cooking set up plus breakfast and dinner for somewhere in the range of $30.

For water purification you can buy a Coghlan's purifier and iodine tablets for about $20 combined. The iodine tablets taste terrible, so I would highly recommend having a good purifier being one of your first major purchases (after boots).

Sleeping bag and backpack can be bought from Craigslist or army surplus for cheap. Sleeping bags are rough because the price and quality difference between the mid-end and high-end stuff is huge, in my opinion, but you make do with what you have.

Most other essentials (compass, waterproof matches, paracord, etc.) can be bought pretty cheap. I'm not entirely sure what the opinion of Coghlans is on this sub, but I have not bought a product from them I didn't like. I would not expect to own anything they make for life, but for the money it is usually pretty good.

As far as deciding where to go, places like Reddit are excellent. Look at a Google Maps view of your area and find the green space. Look up any national forests, parks, or monuments in your area and find out what kind of opportunities they have. A good sign of a quality wilderness experience is dispersed camping opportunities, in my opinion.


Lastly, only experience will tell you what you don't need to pack, do need to pack, etc. I used to only bring one compass until I got lost and started doubting my compass. Thankfully my hiking partner had a gps tool, especially since my compass was indeed malfunctioning. Now I have a light compass I bring along that I can use as a sanity check in case I begin to doubt my main one.

If you want good sound people here have nailed it pretty good. Sansa Clip sounds pretty good even out of the box.

Cowon are known for having good sound as well. I would recommend at some point if you want something that sounds really good - look at getting a DAC or DAC/AMP combo - these things really enhance MP3s - they will make you say "oh wow..." especially if you are using good headphones. I have 3 DACs and I recently just heard the FiiO E17 and was really impressed with it - particularly for 100 bucks.


Get the sansa and look later into a DAC/AMP combo. Even with the DAC you are under 200 bucks. :)

FiiO E17 - 121.99 http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E17-USB-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0070UFMOW

Also look at FiiO E10 - I have one of these, very happy with it.
http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E10-USB-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B005VO7LG6/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1373074173&sr=1-10&keywords=FiiO

The following are the tools I used to add a new cable line for MoCA to an old room on my land:

​

*NOTE: THIS SETUP DOES NOT APPLY TO A FIOS SERVICE PROVIDER.*

​

(optional) MoCA POE Filter for Cable TV Coaxial Networking - This goes onto the incoming COAX Cable. Sometimes your provider does use the same frequency as the MoCA signal to manage with its devices. So This makes sure that your signal is safe to use, and doesn't interfere with your providers own management. This is optional because it depends on your layout. If you live in an apartment complex or area with multiple houses connected (wall to wall) , I HIGHLY recommend you purchase this to prevent your neighbors from receiving and possibly connecting to your network. You should connect this as follows: |Incoming COAX > MoCA POE Filter|

​

2-Way Coax Cable Splitter Bi-Directional MoCA - This allowed me to split my incoming cable so that I can reuse the same line leading to the outside of my house. You can also use it if all your lines are internal, but I digress. It allows you to split and connect multiple rooms (while being safe for MoCA signals). Ideally it goes: | Incoming COAX > MoCA POE Filter > MoCA Cable Splitter > Every room you want connected (including router) |

​

​

MOTOROLA MOCA Adapter for Ethernet Over Coax, 1,000 Mbps Bonded 2.0 - This is what you use to connect both ( or more) ends of the MoCA network. At the end of it all, this is how your network should look:

The internet comes into your house via | Incoming Coax > MoCA POE Filter > MoCA Cable Splitter > COAX Cable leading to MoCA Adapter > MoCA Adapter > Modem > Router (WAN port). |

​

At this point your router is connected to the internet. The connection to the rest of your house is a follows: | Router via LAN port > MoCA Adapter that's connecting to your Modem > MoCA signal travels down your internet Coax > returns to the MoCA Cable Splitter > Coax split from cable splitter, leading to other section of house > MoCA Adapter > Device or switch |

​

(optional) QUAD SHIELD SOLID COPPER 3GHZ RG-6 Coax Cable - I needed to order cable because the room I connected had no coax leading to it. If you need to buy cable, make sure you measure the distance away from the splitter, BASED ON the path you plan to lay the COAX cable on. Then add a few feet "just in case". If you don't need to run new cable, this is a non issue, and can be safely not purchased. Also, this particular cable was not pre-terminated, so I had to terminate and crimp the ends myself which may not be for everyone. Pre-made cables are available, albeit a bit more expensive.

​

(optional) Waterproof Connectors Crimping Tool - This is the tool I used to crimp my COAX cable. If you don't need to terminate your own cables, you don't need to buy this tool.

​

(optional) Rotary Drill Bit - I only needed this because I had to drill in from the outside (old house). You may also need to use this if you have to add a new hole in your wall, for a brand new coax connection. Needless to say, this is optional.

​

(optional) Coaxial Wall Plate - I used this to add the coax cable to my wall. It makes it look nice but isn't "technically" necessary. Use it as you see fit.

​

(optional) 3ft BLACK QUAD SHIELD SOLID COPPER 3GHZ RG-6 Coaxial Cable - This connects the coax wall plate to the branched off network (and devices) Use as you see fit.

​

*NOTE: THIS SETUP DOES NOT APPLY TO A FIOS SERVICE PROVIDER.*

​

If you have any questions, let me know. all the items I listed above can be swapped out for cheaper or more locally accessible items at will. Just be sure yo do your research first.

Keep it clean, both software and hardware wise. Dust is a bitch and it can cause thermal issues. Since you have a laptop you should at least air dust it maybe twice a month, by taking out the bottom and air blowing the heat sinks and fans (DONT LET THEM SPIN too much, hold them down or tape them down when air dusting them).

I have a can-less air duster from amazon this (https://www.amazon.com/EasyGo-CompuCleaner-Electronic-Alternative-Compressed/dp/B00S7CH6FK/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1511903628&sr=8-5&keywords=canless+air+duster) bit pricey but worth it.

No need for antivirus, windows defender is super solid, just use your common sense when it comes to navigating the internet and downloading programs, it will remind you to run a system scan if you have not done one in a while. Furthermore, malewarebytes is a great addition that can help keep your system clean. I also use CCleaner to clean out my browsing history and cookies.

Keep the system cool, gaming laptops have come a long ways now, but they still can get a bit toasty especially during long gaming sessions. Any chill pad that directly feed air into the intakes should do a good job of keeping your laptop chill.

When downloading a new game, make sure you have the latest graphics drivers, nvidia tend send out their newest drivers whenever there is a big game being released.

To add on to this:

Xenyx 802 - $60

This will be good for a stereo application. It is cheap and will sound great. Plus it will give you the needed control for a stereo setup, of using one mic for left and the other for right.

Samson C02 pair - $75-$140

These microphones are relatively cheap, even at their price ceiling.
They use a Cardioid pick up pattern that is seems slightly Super Cardioid. They're sold in pairs, so you will only need one order.

Lyxpro SDPC-2 - $100

These microphones are packed with features at their price point. Plus they sound great, so they're extremely competitive. They come with 3 capsules for both microphones so you can choose between Omni, Cardioid & Super Cardioid. You'll likely want to use Cardioid or Super Cardioid, depending on your use case.

SDPC-2 or C02?

Mainly comes down to this: Price at time of purchase - are they the same? Which is more important to you - Omni & Super Cardioid pick up patterns or a good shock mount? The patterns means purchase the Lyxpro, the shock mount means purchase the Samson.


Are they different prices? Do the features justify the price gap?

Accessories

Stereo Microphone Bar - ~$10

You'll need one of these or something similar.

Scissor Arm - $20

You'll want one if you don't have one yet. Or if it is better suited go for a Boom Stand.

2 XLR Cables - $12

Cheap cables. They aren't OFC so you can look into slightly more expensive options. Maybe even make some yourself! :D

RCA to 3.5mm - $8

YOU NEED THIS. This is how you are going to connect from the mixer to the computer.


--EDIT-- You are looking at roughly $210 for the entire setup. Which isn't all that bad seeing as it will be 2 microphones.

Shovel knight!!



Also some free games that are worth the download

Pokemon pic cross

Zelda pic cross (see here https://my.nintendo.com/rewards)
Can't buy the game. Only available thru rewards program. I recommend you hop on it asap. Free games/themes show up every once in a while)

That submarine battle game (its free on eshop). Best shooting game I've experienced for the 3ds. Sorry can't remember the name.

Badge arcade- almost always get free plays, and you get to decorate your home menu with them.

Also big life pro tip, Play games with headphones.

Also worth it in my opinion (see here--> dreamGEAR Comfort GRIP Protection for your NEW Nintendo 3DS XL https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UJ9LB6Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rl1lybR9S0F7W)

That grip pad helps prevent hand cramps when playing for a extended period of time.

Here's the details on the stuff:

Power Rack. Had this about 6 weeks and I'm extremely happy with it. Looks fine, feels very sturdy, no feeling of tipping or instability even when I hang from the bar at front. Paint scratches when you move and insert the spotter bars but what do you want for $350 shipped. It's held 215 on multiple occasions with no issues. If you lift significantly heavier than this (300+) you may want to read reviews first, or invest in a less-starter rack, but for many/most people this will be fine forever. It's dead easy to assemble if you have a socket set and if you don't, great opportunity to get one, they're cheap! Assembly can be done mostly solo but the final bits really need a second person to hold stuff in place while bolts are inserted. Rack comes shipped in 2 or 3 (can't remember) boxes which are pretty unwieldy and heavy.

I went with this CAP barbell. This suits my needs very well with great knurling and came without bend, and I'm unlikely to put a bend in it with my sub-300 deadlifts. The barbell ships in a fun 7 foot cylindrical tube which caused the dude at the mail place to nearly topple over because he expected it to be light for some reason.

I also got this plate tree which holds 2x 45# bumpers, 2x 45# plates, and 2x 25#, 2x 10#, 4x 5#, and 2x 2.5#. Does the trick but paint scratches off the pegs like crazy but is easily cleaned up. Single box, about 30 pounds.

The bench is this one by Marcy. I wanted a simple bench and that's what I got. Great bench for the price and I haven't had any instability problems. Had this for a year and used up to 70# dumbbells and 215# barbell with it (I'm 215). Most weight total that's been on it was a 270# friend benching 185# for sets and he found it fine.

Assorted stuff: got these puzzle mats which do the trick for the right price and are stowable unlike a permanent mat. As I mentioned elsewhere the 45# bumpers are meant to mitigate any floor impact, and I'm not terribly concerned with keeping this floor perfect anyway (it's 10 year old laminate on top of concrete, and the "path" is linoleum). The plates were from a sale at the local FitnessDerp store (not its real name) and were 85 cents a pound -- I never saw any on Craigslist for less than that in the month I looked. Finally just some collars.

The cat in the picture highly recommends this crinkle tunnel.

Well the higher the impedance the harder to drive the headphones, thats the basics of it. In DT990s case the 600ohm is the best sounding one, but not by much. The DT990 250ohm premium is almost as good. The DT990 32ohms is also pretty good. You will only be able to tell the differences when listening to all three of them at the same time. But i think the one you were considering must have been the Pro 250ohm model, which is quite a bit different compared to its premium counterparts. It is more uncomfortable, has a smaller soundstage with muddier bass. It is also the cheapest at 200$. If I were you I'd go with the Premium 250ohm or 32ohm models. They both cost around 300$ new and run around 200$-250$ used(on Amazon via Amazon warehouse). If you get the 32ohm model you CAN skip getting an amp, as it wont be necessary, it will certainly improve the sound but wont be necessary. With the 250ohm premium an amp becomes a necessity. If you're going with a brand new 250Ohm premium then just get that along with a AMP+DAC like the E17 or if you want to go cheaper get the E11(it is the same amp as the E17 but without a DAC). You can skip getting a E9 as it wont give as much benefits and would unnecessarily push you overbudget. This should cost you about 440$ if you buy from Amazon(New DT990 Premium 250ohm + Fiio E17 or E11, with the E11 you'll be in budget but will loose on getting a DAC. Or you can get a used DT990 Premium 250 ohm(check out the 4th listing that lists it as like new, if Amazon says it is like new it means it will impossible to differentiate it from a brand new one) with a E17 to stay within budget

I know it can be tempting, but you should never buy a console solely because of the hardware. Hardware is no good if it doesn't play the games you want to play. Crash Bandicoot: N-Sane Trilogy and the upcoming Final Fantasy 7 remake are both PS4 exclusives. And though nothing has been officially stated, many people assume a Spyro remaster is coming next, especially in the wake of Crash Bandicoot's critical reception and sales numbers.

The idea that PS5 will feature backwards compatibility is likewise only a rumor, however, it's backed by logical evidence. But it's worth keeping in mind that Sony has a business interest in NOT offering backwards compatibility, so that they can more easily sell Playstation Now subscriptions, classic digital titles (ala Nintendo's virtual console), and remastered classics. (In other words, just because they can, doesn't mean they will.) And if Sony does ultimately offer b/c with PS5 and copies Microsoft's approach to the tiniest detail, then the PS5 won't have b/c at launch but will have it patched in later, and even then only for the most popular titles. I still have my Xbox 360 hooked up because my Xbox One isn't a 100% replacement for it, and it probably never will be. So buying any console with backwards compatibility in mind is something of a crapshoot.

It might be worth mentioning that you do have options besides Playstation and Xbox. Nintendo Switch has been very popular since it launched in March, and remains perpetually sold out. To get one at this point in time, you'd either have to buy one from an eBay scalper or watch stock trackers carefully and be in the right place at the right moment. But it doesn't take advantage of 4K, and in what could be either a pro or a con depending on your mindset, offers less crossover with the catalog of games you already have access to on PC. However, Nintendo does have a stellar reputation for offering approachable games and single-system multiplayer, and is often thought of as a good choice for girlfriend gaming. Your other option is to run an extra video cable from your PC to your TV if your hardware supports it, and buy some wireless controllers. (I recommend wireless Xbox One controllers, or wireless Xbox 360 controllers if you're running Windows 7.) Then you can just play PC games on your couch, although it won't be quite as simple to start and switch between games, which might not sit well with your g/f.

Connecting multiple consoles to your TV is not particularly menacing, unless you just don't have the physical space for it. If you have a 4K set you probably have enough spare HDMI ports, and if not you can get an HDMI switch to expand the number of available ports, along with a power strip or two if need be. I have 6 consoles hooked up to my 4K flatscreen — PS4, PS3, Xbox One, Xbox 360, Nintendo Switch and Nintendo Wii U. That's why I don't worry about backwards compatibility.

I see that motivational speaker career is paying off!....

You have "line of sight" to the KHOU transmitters (which is good), but you're about 30 miles away. That's probably too far for a consistent signal with a window or attic antenna, especially on a VHF signal.

But a rooftop antenna should easily be able to pull in such a strong signal (and all your other stations). How about a Clearstream 2V or Winegard 7694p or 7698p strapped to your chimney or on a roof mount, with a RCA Preamp 1. A preamp locks in the signal you receive at the antenna so you don't bleed signal on the coaxial run to your television or at the splitters.

Point the antenna at 178 degrees using your iPhone compass app or install an Android compass app. On the roof, it'll pull in all your signals nicely because they all come from the same location.

FYI - the Clearstream is the nicest looking, but remember that federal law protects your right to put up pretty much any OTA antenna you want on your roof -- no matter what your HOA, city, or landlord prefer. FCC link 1 FCC link 2

FYI 2 -- if you previously had DirecTV or Dish Network, you might be able to re-use their rooftop mount and coaxial cable runs, assuming that their pole/mount gives you a clear, unobstructed view toward 178 degrees. You'll just need to swap out any Direct/Dish splitters/amplifiers for your own splitter or connector.

To build a system using the minimum recommendations from this sub, let's start with this diagram: http://i.imgur.com/Z8FMJ.png
DAC is optional, so is a subwoofer but I recommend one.

DAC: Behringer UCA202 $29.99 Link: http://amzn.com/B000KW2YEI

Amplifier: SMSL SA-50 $68.99 Link: http://amzn.com/B00F0H8TOC

Subwoofer: Dayton Audio SUB-800 $99.00 Link: http://amzn.com/B0063NU30K

Bookshelf Speakers: Micca MB42X $89.00 Link: http://amzn.com/B00E7H8GG2

Wire: 16-gauge Speaker Wire $8.00 Link: http://amzn.com/B006LW0WDQ

With DAC, this cable: Stereo Male to 2 RCA Male $5 Link: http://amzn.com/B00I0HPK6O

Without DAC, this cable: Monoprice 105597 3-Feet Premium Stereo Male to 2RCA Male $5 Link: http://amzn.com/B0094A1F3S

This is a great starter system, I would have loved to had something like this starting out.
All of these pieces can be upgraded, do your research. Look for sales etc. Good luck and have fun.

All this advice applies if you live in the US (don't wanna waste your time).

For a full power rack, I would recommend just waiting for a good deal on craigslist. Even this rack on amazon is pretty good deal

I'm sure if you look long enough you can find a better deal on craigslist. I bought that weight bench a few years ago, but if I had known better I would have just gotten a power rack. As a beginner (less than 300lbs on squat), this solution works for me. Also, try to find one with a pulley system if possible, cause I love some of the exercises that are only possible with a pulley system, especially if you are beginner. Also, remember if you decide to upgrade you can always sell something professionally made and get most of your money back and even make money if bought from a really good deal. Of course, void all this if you love building stuff and have the time.

They come with speaker wire (I'm pretty sure) so you're set there.

You need an amp as well as a way to plug them in. It depends how much you're willing to spend, but I'll give you some options.

This little amp is great for a desk setup. It isn't very clean and doesn't have much power, but that should be fine for sitting up close.

This SMSL amp has the same power but it is cleaner, meaning it will sound a bit better. It also won't distort as much as you turn it up.

This SMSL amp has more power than the other amps. This just means it can get louder. It might be nice if you plan on using them in a bigger room or at a tv in the future.

To plug those in to your computer, you'll need an rca-3.5mm cable. I use AmazonBasics for all of my cables and they work great.

Alright, now that will give you sound (probably) but it might not be the best. Computers usually have very bad dacs. This converts the 1s and 0s to squiggly bits that the speakers can use. If your computer has an optical out, I would recommend this dac. It is cheap and comes with the optical cable.

If you get the dac, you'll need an RCA cable to plug it into the amp.

So, if you get the dac, it will go like this: (the stuff between the --> is the cables)

computer -->OPTICAL--> dac -->RCA-CABLE--> amplifier -->SPEAKER WIRE--> speakers

If you skip the dac, it will go like this:

computer -->3.5MM-to-RCA-CABLE--> amplifier -->SPEAKER WIRE--> speakers


Does this make sense?

the 3d is pretty good for this version 3ds, it's still not great. it tracks where your eyes are in real-time to maintain the 3d image as best it can but again, i'd give it like 5/10. the screens though are VERY nice, even in 2d so don't worry.
the c-stick is very sensitive. i'm always afraid i'm gonna break mine like when i'm playing monster hunter and freaking out trying to see what's happening around me. you'll find you won't need to push it around very much at all.
the volume is...it could be louder, but it's alright.
battery life is amazing, in my case that might mostly be attributed to playing on the lowest brightness settings you can mess with from the home menu.
my hands would cramp and sweat (gross!!) from playing the 3ds so much that i looked up on amazon a specific type of cover to put over it to protect it, this guy
so, if i were you, i'd buy pokemon on cartridge so you can have your mons separate from the console - in case, you know, your 3ds gets stolen but somehow the game isn't in it at the time, that would be very lucky (spoken from experience, i was not so lucky!!! i hope my pocket monsters are out there somewhere making somebody happy)

I can't use this much camping on oahu, but this would be great for a camping trip to either Washington or Oregon!

It also has free shipping! I already have a mess kit, and the butane can be obtained at walmart, but I havnt seen such a great price on a camp stove. The reviews make it seem awesome!

Someone else posted this as well, but I also had this on my list.

Story time: On one of our first dates my then boyfriend, now husband, took me hiking on a trail near his house. It's a pretty intense one where people have died getting very lost. We had hiked it before and gotten a little confused and had to climb a very sketchy crumbling rocky hillside and I was concerned we'd get lost again.

I was reassured that he had GPS and we'd be fine and we'd only be out a short while. Well, my husband had no water, and I had a half liter bottle. We started out and it was pretty easy, there are tons of streams in the area but there is a risk of leptospirosis from pigs, so obviously we didn't drink. Needless to say we got lost, his so-called GPS wa his cell phone and there was no reception, we were lost for three hours. He landed up drinking the majority of my water since he sweats a lot, had none and is nearly double my weight.

I was so thirsty in the way back, those crystal clean fast moving waters looked tempting, but I was no fool. That life-straw would have been such a godsend on that hike of lost crazy. We eventually got back drank tons of water, and my husband vowed we'd never go hiking there again unless we had real supplies.

Edit: it's also neat that I have links to other great camp supplies!

I use the ($60) [Logitech G430] (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826104847) w/ Sennheiser Splitter cable, it really needs a splitter as audio is too low without. As for features, it sounds like any other headset nothing special, but it is more comfortable with it's softer earcups. I heard of someone using an adapter from turtle beach to get full 7.1 out of them as they are advertised to offer 7.1, but only on PC. I've never tried adapter on PS4:




But, I also heard alot of good things about HyperX, I think this is their first gen pair($68)

And last but not least the PC fav,Kraken($70)



A bit of advice on any headphones you choose(if you plan to use microphone function), you would do well to have some audio splitter cable as audio improves dramatically. For example, my G430 came with an adapter that ran through USB, but audio was so low it was worthless. Also, pretty much any headphones should work on PS4 with an adapter or Splitter cable, but splitter is a better solution, just stay away....far away from anything branded "StarTech" as they are usually recommended or shown "bought together" on Amazon, they seem perfect cuz their cheap, but I used a splitter adapter from them and it was DOA.

I would buy a full power rack for safety's sake, if space and money permit (linked a cheap one, but it will do it's job, you can spend a lot more on higher quality ones), rather than the stand that liquidarity listed, but that's really up to your own tolerance for safety. You can use it for benching too (if you have a bench).

I wouldn't list bumper plates (as compared to steel) as an absolute necessity. They are certainly good to have for cleans (and to a certain extent, deadlifts), but again it's kind of up to your tolerance for noise and potential to break stuff (like... floors, or your bar) vs. how much money you want to spend. Obviously it's better to have them than not if you can afford it.

With a rack, a bench, a bar, and some plates, you can do most of any kind of training, and if you can swing some kettlebells (heh) that will add to your versatility.

With those specific programs however, from what I've seen in the past, they like to prescribe a decent amount of kettlebell type stuff (some of which you could do or modifiy to do with a bar, some you can't), so that might be a higher priority than on some other programs.

Well I'll start off by saying YES open back will help you not need mic monitoring it will also add a better soundstage for audio positioning that will work better than any terrible 7.1 virtual SS or "True" 7.1(which is terrible and no one should buy any of the current headsets marketed with this gimmick). Also gaming focused isn't really ever nessasary because better sound in general will be good for gaming and will add more functionality. Also with wireless you sacrifice a fair bit a quality and you have to pay way more. If your willing to spend $300 don't even get any headset. But a pair of HD598 from Sennheiser and a Mod Mic 4.0 this set up will cost close to the same as a G933 and will be better than it in every single way by a large margin. Also for it to work on PS4 you will just need one adapter which Sennheiser sells. But if you for what ever reason want a headset still go for the Sennheiser Game One there way better than the current best wireless gaming headset the Siberia 800 and come in at about half the price. But the aforementioned adapter is still nessasary on console.

Hey, I can help you!

First, get a dual UHF/VHF antenna. This is the one I use. You can buy one on Amazon or at the South Portland Best Buy for $99.99.

This antenna should pretty much pick up NBC, ABC, and CBS no matter where you mount it. I have mine indoors on the first floor.

To get FOX, you'll need to point the antenna so that it's facing almost due north. The FOX antenna is up near Farmington for some reason. You may have to mess with the direction a little, but you should be able to get FOX in crystal clear HD with great reception.

These are my experiences over on Woodford St in Portland. Best of luck to you!

I'm no expert, but being less than 10 miles away from all your major antennas, (you lucky bastard,) I'd be willing to bet that you would be perfectly fine with one of THESE. If that price bothers you, you can always try THIS. I don't know what your DIY antenna is like, but with either one of these you should definitely get most of those nearby stations... at least more than your current 4. Good luck!

RT80 with conical needle for $200? A better option with an elliptical needle and less cost is the Teac TN-300SE Black or Walnut $150 with Coupon code SPIN in the shopping cart click "Have a promo code" above the subtotal on top.

A worthwhile upgrade is the Fluance RT82 $299. It has an optical sensor speed controlled motor for lower wow and flutter and speed variation specs than the RT80 and RT81. A later optional upgrade is the acrylic platter as seen on the $500 RT85 for around $89 when Fluance gets it in stock.

However, you will need to add an external phono stage/preamp which is the better option anyway. Music Hall Mini $75 for example. Plus an RCA interconnect cable. I use a Schitt Mani $129 phono stage with my RT82 and they sound great together.

If you split the signal out of a turntable with built in phono stage or external phono stage you would need to adjust both the volume of the subwoofer and the speakers separately every time you change the volume.

An option with the Edifiers is to connect a subwoofer with speaker level inputs between the master and slave speakers. You would only get bass from one channel instead of both, though bass is usually the same on both channels anyways.

For better sound quality, I recommend a speaker setup upgrade before adding a subwoofer.

The standard way to connect a subwoofer to powered speakers are to get speakers with a subwoofer output RCA jack or an amp or receiver with speaker wire subwoofer hookup or a receiver with an RCA subwoofer pre-out jack.

Low budget subwoofers with speaker level inputs.

• 10" Dayton Audio SUB-1000 $120.
  
• 12" Dayton Audio SUB-1200 $150.
  
  See Speaker Wire Only Sub Hookup and 2.1 Simple Hookup Diagram
  
  Guides:
  
  
• Home Audio: Intro to home stereo systems • Zeos Tutorials, Diagrams and Videos • Guide to Home Audio • AverageJoeAudiophile's Guides
  
• Speaker Positioning: How to position your speakers for great sound and Speaker Placement for Stereo Music Listening.
  
  Also check out r/BudgetAudiophile.

The link I gave was a cursory example, but I did specify that it should be an active DP to DVI adapter. But fair point, the one in the link will not be the right one. I would expect that the OP would do his/her own research based on the information provided and not just buy the first one linked (which was linked purely as an example).

Perhaps something like this would have been a more appropriate example - https://smile.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter-Converter-Black/dp/B00A493CNY/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=active+dp+to+dvi+adapter+144hz&qid=1567203271&refinements=p_76%3A419158031&rnid=419157031&rps=1&s=gateway&sr=8-1

But the one above is also but an example of the type of adapter that is needed, but not neccessarily the exact adapter needed.

Hope that helps and indeed clarifies.

Peace <3

I've got a ton of budget best bang for the buck gear, but one place you absolutely should not skimp on is socks. Buy 2-3 pair of SmartWool Expedition weight socks. It's like wearing slippers inside your boots.
Socks
Here's some more of the cheap (mostly) gear that I purchased and am still happy with. This includes some revisions I've made after a somewhat miserable trip to Yosemite. I am a freak for reading reviews and digging for the best price.
$8 Stove
$8 Mug
$16 underwear... okay, this is almost as important as socks!
$29 Solar charger, or DIY
$85 Water filter, didn't want to skimp here although water tabs are doable
$9 550 paracord
$14 multitool - use a small cheap knife to 'cut' costs
$28 titanium Anodized Aluminum pot
$9 Tarp Couldn't find the link, but it's at WalMart in their camping section, by Outdoor Products.
$9 titanium spork
$45 hammock - you can get cheaper on campmor, but this one caught my eye at REI
$16 hammock suspension - you can get cheaper by DIY
$14 Compass
Sierra Trading Post has Comfortrel longjohns for $17/top or bottom - feels cheap, but effective.
$24 15 degree mummy bag IMO the next best thing for the money is The Cat's Meow at ~$90.
$22 tent - small, decent weight, cheap, hard to find. Not sure if I trust in rain, but worked great for five days of decent weather and 30 degree nights. Dumped this for the hammock setup due to weight and size. (but it's not that heavy or big)


In addition, I'll be switching to the $45 54litre pack from Costco.
GoLite has some crazy cheap light backpacks, but they don't seem to do well for loads heavier than ~25 pounds, which you probably won't hit on a budget.
$10 tab stove - haven't used, gonna try this out soon

Wal Mart has been seriously stepping up their backpacking game in the last year or so. Take a look their. A lot of the products are decent quality at crazy good prices.
Thread

This project was inspired by a previous post by EvilBorisDX about a month ago. Thanks goes out to him for the idea, he provides some tutorials that are worth checking out - his implementation is based on Lightberry, which is a prebuilt package. I decided to build my own, and i'm glad i did - this is a really awesome addition to your gaming rig, and i recommend it to everyone! - Happy to answer any questions.

Looking around the web i found two great tutorials (linked in the video description) that helped me through the process, but it wasn't without some pain points. Here's a few key takeaways (and my parts list is at the bottom):

• You want an EasyCap grabber with the STK1160 chipset. I went through several, and while you can get it working with other chipsets (except the Somagic, if you get a Somagic just give up... it's not worth the effort, order a new one and roll the dice again), the STK1160 is by far the easiest. In fact, one of the tutorials has an SD image that will just straight work with this chipset.
  
• Not all HDMI->Composite converters are equal. First, Amazon sent me the wrong one altogether, which was a RCA->HDMI... took me awhile to notice that. Then, the replacement would only accept a 480p input (which forced the PS4 to display in 480p). After the replacement converter was in place, everything settled in and i was finally able to dial in my color settings and get this thing up and going.
  
• The replacement converter displays a test pattern when it has no signal, as opposed to just going to a black screen - so i had to add a power switch to the LED strip to be able to turn off the LEDs without shutting down the whole system. I decided to go with a Belkin WEMO so my fat ass didn't have to get up to turn off the lights, but any 2 pole switch inline with the power will work too.
  
• Don't be afraid to change the Hyperion color settings (especially the Threshold and WhiteLvl values) from what's shown on the web. Dial it in to your preference.
  
• Most tutorials call for you to power the Pi and the LEDs from the same power supply. I did not go this route since i wanted to be able to easily toggle the power to the LEDs without shutting down the Pi. If you go this route, you MUST ground the LEDs to both the power AND the Pi's grounding jumper, or the lights will not function properly.
  
  My full parts list is as follows. I found these to all work well, and the EasyCap is guaranteed to be an STK1160:
  
  
• WS2801 LEDs (Any WS2801 cuttable strip will work)
  
• Screen Grabber - STK1160 - There are cheaper ones available, but you take chances on getting a different firmware.
  
• HDMI Splitter
  
• HDMI->Composite Converter - Really don't mess around here. Get this one. It's not the same as is shown in the picture (it's white, not black), but it's 1080p and doesn't require external power. Only con is the test pattern.
  
• Any Raspberry Pi kit. I went with the CanaKit Starter kit with the Model B
  
• DC Power Adapter - To power your LEDs
  
• You'll also need misc cables (RCA and HDMI), some wires, soldering iron, 5v power port, etc... to set this all up. Good fun project overall.

I've recently kind of made the switch. I'll mention my setup since it involves a bit of what you are using as well as some of the other recommendations:

I'm currently using some Apple TVs hooked up to the TVs. I know that from one of your comments that you are using an AppleTV (I'm using 4th Gen).

I've got an HDHomeRun, which transmits the Over The Air (OTA) over my home network (and am using this antenna with it).

It's worked pretty well for live TV. I've tried HomeRun's DVR software (which costs extra), but have had rather so-so results.

Anyway, if you do get an HDHomeRun, then on your AppleTV you will want to get the Channels app. It costs a bit (more than I'd like it to have, but eh...), and make sure that you buy it through the AppleTV, since there is a separate version for iOS, and if you buy it for iOS, you don't get the tvOS version and visa versa. Although the cost is annoying, it works quite well.

Right now I am trying DirectTV Now. It's been working moderately well (also I'm using a Gigapower connection through AT&T). I'll have to review in a few months whether I want to keep it or not.

Then, if you do happen to have some sort of other (DLNA) media server in the house (Plex, Kodi), then Infuse is a great app (and if you get the iOS version, you also get the tvOS version).

Another thing that I should also probably note is that with the HDHomeRun devices, none of them are actually wireless. So you'll have to have the device (and antenna) either by your router, or otherwise connected up through a wired line.

Anyways, it's been nice in that this set up has meant that I'm getting the local OTA channels a player for my media server, DirectTV Now, Netflix, WatchESPN, and a few more things all on one device now.

The funny thing is that it was really live sports that kept me with regular cable, but now between DirectTV Now/WatchESPN, I've actually got more sports channels than I did before, but at a lower cost.

The HDMI handshake always takes some time, and Windows is particularly annoying with displays in my experience. Even if I plug my display in directly without any interruption or switching, simply changing between "active" and "disabled" in Windows causes all connected displays to turn on and off for several seconds. Windows often scrambles which display has my icons and open programs, too. I see how that'd be a big problem for you. Its not home and not theater, but I'm looking into it.

The ideal approach off the top of my head would be to have the display already "on" and connection negotiated, then just not display the image until its needed. I've got a few ideas:

- There are fast HDMI switchers out there. They are the ones that have an option to display which ever input is currently active, but support only one output each. They are cheap, though. This product on Amazon claims that the connected PCs can have their output as "always on", then it simply displays either the first active one or the one selected via remote. $40 https://www.amazon.ca/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y

- Try looking into "presentation switchers" instead. They start pretty cheap at B&H, but would do more what you want. KannexPro, for example,even has UltraFast HDMI switchers boasting 0.2 seconds switching time. This particular one is pricier at $500, but it says it can pre-store the EDID information of multiple displays to switch HDCP signals faster: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1424577-REG/kanexpro_hdmx42_18g_4x2_hdmi_2__4k_60.html

- Perhaps instead of connecting them as displays, have you tried adding a capture card to the PCs and connecting the output of that to a switch? This should at least negate Windows messing with it

- Or, alternatively have a PC/laptop/cheap Android tablet connected to the projector, and have it remotely display the content of one of the other PCs via wired LAN? You can probably get a sufficient connection going over LAN

I have owned an msr pocket stove for a while and loved it. When it went missing I spent a season without it because I was too stubborn to buy a piece of gear I just had to find. Well next season I decided to just do a ton of research and see if there was anything that was being sold for a fraction of the price but was still popular. That's when I found this. Do yourself a favor and start skimming through the reviews. There's a lot of them. There are things about it that could be better but hey for under 6$ I have used the shit out of this thing and have been thoroughly pleased.

Leegoal Ultralight Backpacking Canister Camp Stove with Piezo Ignition 3.9oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004U8CP88/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_iRvRwb778K57W

For an HDMI switch, I use this: Kinivo Switch, and it works great. I have a PS4, XB1, Wii U, Switch and PS3 hooked up to it. I have no issues with it, and recommend it. I am running everything at 1080, though.


I also have 2 of the Pelican System Selector Pro 2.0's that I absolutely love. Each one has 6 inputs, capable of switching composite, s-video and component. You have to run the appropriate outputs, so you are really limited to using 1 type of output realistically. If you get fancy with the output wiring you can mix and match, but I like to keep it simple. I use S-Video for everything that supports it into the selectors and then into a Toshiba CRT TV. I don't see any on eBay right now, but that's pretty much where you're gonna find them. I really like mine and recommend trying to scoop one up.


I used to run the regular Pelican System Selectors that had push buttons to switch sources. They work, but don't look as slick as the Pro's and Pro 2.0's.


Mixing inputs gets tricky, and I typically run different switching units for different types of outputs (s-video, component, HDMI). Here is a link to my setup I posted on reddit a few weeks ago: my setup

I love them both. They are the only two headphones I have kept, while trying/returning the rest. The X2s are more comfortable, with an airy/open feel, great to listen to music/game. I also love the v modas for techno/rap and gaming as well. I have also used the v modas to travel/fly with 2-3 times now as well. I would def pick up the x2s esp if you can get a deal.

Side note, since I've seen some other people mentioning an amp/dac, I picked up the

https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Alpen-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0070UFMOW/ref=sr_1_30?ie=UTF8&qid=1484514699&sr=8-30&keywords=e17

This makes a WORLD of a difference. Sounds WAY better. You can also add additional bass. I would never go back to not having a DAC. I normally play directly from my PC (motherboard), with no soundcard, so this helps a lot.

Either get the JDS Labs Atom Amp and OL DAC ($200 + $15 shipping), or save a little bit of money and get a Monoprice Liquid Spark and a Massdrop Grace SDAC ($180 + free shipping). Either option is great, with the JDS Labs option being simpler to get a hold of (same online store) and the other option being slightly cheaper. Neither will disappoint, and both are a little bit better than a Schiit Stack.

​

JDS Labs option:

https://jdslabs.com/product/atom-amp/

https://jdslabs.com/product/ol-dac/

​

Other option:

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=33304

https://www.massdrop.com/buy/massdrop-x-grace-design-standard-dac

​

Don't forget to get Amazon Basics RCA cables and a decent usb cable to hook them up.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-2-Male-RCA-Audio-Cable/dp/B01D5H8P0G/ref=sxin_2?keywords=rca+cable&pd_rd_i=B01D5H8P0G&pd_rd_r=d5b4131b-5bb5-439b-9b5c-11a205d8a3df&pd_rd_w=3owY2&pd_rd_wg=6yjsC&pf_rd_p=0395a9fd-d124-46c0-a48f-d8582ed1a45c&pf_rd_r=J1JWK7YFY9D8XK5S47XX&qid=1555197970&s=gateway

​

For the OL DAC:

https://www.amazon.com/JSAUX-Printer-Scanner-Brother-Lexmark/dp/B07KXRW7FN/ref=sr_1_17?keywords=usb+type+a&qid=1555198004&s=gateway&sr=8-17

​

For the Grace SDAC:

https://www.amazon.com/Android-JSAUX-Charger-Braided-Compatible/dp/B07DFC297R/ref=sr_1_17?qid=1555198129&s=gateway&sr=8-17&srs=18609081011

This works great for $10. JoeTV is a little faint on Alki, but we got it working with some creative antenna placement in the living room. Doesn't work in my basement room, though I get everything else local.

http://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-HW110AN-HomeWorx-Indoor-Antenna/dp/B008KVUAGU/ref=pd_sim_e_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1Q44SRXQS5BFKBK4K6F2

You still need a solution for ESPN and NBC Sports Network, though. A relative with ESPN on their cable package might solve the first via WatchESPN.com, but I don't think they livestream MLS matches on NBCSports.com like they do all the Premier League games. I am able to access NBC via my parents DirecTV account in case they do. Supposedly a friend is hooking us up with a Comcast password for our ESPN viewing :)

My friend owns a pair of these Dayton B652-AIR bookshelf speakers which I think sound really great for the price. I've heard good things about the cheaper model as well. AFAIK, the only difference between these two speakers is the tweeter, and I gather that it's worth the extra money, but I haven't heard the low-end model myself. The AIR model is definitely worth it for the price.

You can power these with the little Lepai 2020 amp, or (even better) a second-hand home theater receiver if you can find one cheap. The Lepai has both a Treble and Bass knob for basic curve tweaking, and a pushbutton "pass-through" that disables them. Most receivers are likely to have more features, more power, and better tone control.

All you'll need then is an appropriate amount of speaker wire (It doesn't need to be anything fancy) and a decent 3.5mm to RCA cable

Presto Dunzo!

I know that you wanted to keep it to $80 for a new system, but if you get everything through Parts Express and it breaks $100, you'll get free shipping. Check out the cart I built.

Responding in the order encountered, rather than by priority...
 

> POE Filter can be found here. That is on the line right as it gets into the house.

The "PoE" MoCA filter would ideally be installed on the input to the initial splitter, as doing so provides a performance improvement over having any length of coax between the "PoE" MoCA filter and the initial splitter's input. (This would provide a slight performance improvement and should be implemented, but isn't likely the cause of your Basement MoCA issues.)
 

> That goes into an Antronix 3 way splitter 5-1002MHz Model #: CMC2003BH-A Each output shows -5.58dB out

You'll want to upgrade this splitter to a MoCA-compatible model... such as this Holland balanced 3-way model. The existing splitter may not be blocking your MoCA signals, but may be contributing more loss than desirable.
 

> Output 1: Home Phone/Kitchen TV (Non Tivo Connected) Antronix FRA1-1510 Forward/Return amplifier/Splitter to get my home phone to work, One of the two Coax cables goes to power the modem for the home phone, the other for the non-TiVo TV

If you don't have any MoCA devices down this coax line, you should install a MoCA filter on the "Output 1" port to prevent MoCA signals from wastefully running down this line... especially since that in-line amplifier could create some unpredictable effects on the MoCA signals.
 

> Output 2: CommScope 2 way splitter Model SV-2G 5-1002MHz one goes to the guest bedroom where we previously had the other Mini and it worked fine (one we moved to basement) and the other goes to the Master Bedroom where a Mini that works fine currently is

Could upgrade to MoCA-compatible (e.g.), though shouldn't have any effect on your Basement MoCA issue.
 

> Output 3: Same two way splitter as Output 2. One goes to the cable modem I provided details for above and the other goes to the Tuning Adapter Model Cisco STA 1520

Per previous posts on recommendations for the tuning adapter setup, you'll need another 2-way splitter or switch to a single 3-way splitter, either balanced or unbalanced depending on your signal strength requirements. I'd prioritize upgrading this splitter, along with the initial splitter, to MoCA-compatible models -- though you might as well upgrade 'em all.

Also as covered in the previous tuning adapter setup recommendations, you'll need a second MoCA filter for your setup, here, installed as a "protective" MoCA filter on the input of the tuning adapter. (This would make it 3 total MoCA filters for your setup, if you also implement a MoCA filter to block-off Output 1 of the initial splitter, as suggested above.)

Further, if looking to boost the signal received at the cable modem and DVR a bit (i.e. 'Output 3' of the main splitter), at the expense of the other outputs of the main splitter, you could opt for an unbalanced 3-way as your initial splitter, connecting the low-loss output of the splitter as "Output 3." (Given the prices, you could order 2 each of the balanced and unbalanced 3-way splitters, then resell whatever you don't use.)

It's not a mind blowing upgrade in quality, but it was definitely worth it in my opinion. That's why I mentioned the upgrade.

I went from an rca to cable converter, to an rca to hdmi converter and didn't notice a difference in quality, but after using the wii to hdmi converter, I found it to be a noticeable difference.

I used to buy games from the nintendo store, and that's where I found the best jump in quality, Mario Kart and Yoshi's Story both had good improvements. I'll see how it does with some of the other games and send you some pictures if you'd like.

I have this HDMI splitter, which bypasses the HDCP, but apparently OREI has updated it and it now is HDCP compliant. Search around on Amazon, YouTube, or even here on reddit for a splitter that is not HDCP compliant. They definitely exist, it's just a matter of finding the right one. I use mine with an elgato game capture HD, and it works flawlessly. I'd say that's your best bet...who knows when Sony will patch it, it could be months if ever. Good luck dude.

Thank you for the response! They are different native resolutions but I have changed in the settings for them to be the same to combat this issue. It still didn't fix it. Even if the monitor is plugged into the splitter by itself it is a black screen. If I plug in my TV to the splitter by itself it works fine. Also my 3 Asus monitors all work fine when plugged into the splitter (either by themselves or with the TV also). I was talking with a few other people and the predictions were:
> I suspect it is a color space issue. DVI only supports RGB color space. HDMI supports RGB and YPbPr. RGB is what computer monitors use and YPbPr is what TV's usually use. If the PC is outputting YPbPr for the TV and the monitor is only able to get RGB, well it may not be able to display the signal.

> It's a chipset issue with the Samsung monitor not being able to interpret the YPbPr color space, even though it is only about 7-8 years old.

> The computer may use drivers to support the output to that monitor and when it's plugged into the splitter it is no longer receiving driver support.

I contacted the company OREI and they said:
> Thank you for contacting us. You'll have this issue with the HD-102 when you are connecting two different display types (TV and Monitor). You won't have this issue if both are monitors or both are TV. In this case, we recommend the OREI HDS-102 which supports EDID selection.

So now my question is which of these issues is it actually?

OREI believes that if I return the splitter I have HD-102 and get HDS-102 that my problem will be solved. Any other opinions?

Ok, it got kind of late and not everything is available yet, so in lieu of the photo, here's a full list:

Bike stuff:

• Extra tube, patch kit, tire levers, compact hand pump
  
  
• Chain tool
  
  
• Pedal wrench (would love to skip this, but need to box my bike)
  
• Chain lube
  
• Bike multi-tool
  
• Two extra spokes (one for each side of rear) and spoke wrench
  
• Leatherman
  
• Adventure Cycling maps and compass
  
  Camp stuff:
  
  
• Mummy bag (REI polar pod )
  
  
• Ground pad (big agnes 3/4 length air pad)
  
  
• Tent (REI sololite)
  
• 50 feet of 400lb line
  
• Ultralight camp stove (shipping from amazon , buying fuel when I land in seattle)
  
• Aluminum pot/pan
  
• First aid kit (added water purification tabs, nail clippers, space blanket, condoms)
  
• Polyurethane sheets, one sized for ground cloth, one for bike cover
  
• Bathroom kit, tube of laundry soap
  
• Two one liter bottles for water
  
  Clothing:
  
  
• Columbia cargo pants with zip-off lower legs. Seem water resistant.
  
  
• Two pairs bike shorts, two cycling jerseys, one long sleeve wicking shirt
  
  
• Four sets undies and socks, one set warm socks
  
• Bright yellow windbreaker, seems water resistant
  
  On my body/miscellaneous:
  
  
• Mirror on my glasses
  
  
• Neon reflective safety vest
  
• Masses of sun block
  
• Two water bottles on my frame
  
• iPhone 4s, Kindle (loaded with Game of Thrones), wall charger
  
  Undecided
  
  
• Maybe my DSLR, if everything else comes in light enough
  
  If I have any glaring omissions, or if you can tell me from experience, "Dude, you don't need to bring that!", then I will be super grateful for your insight into this.
  
  edit for formatting

Just FYI, a PSP joystick fits perfectly on the New 3DS XL. Just yoink the C-nub out with the tip of a knife or with pliers and stick it on there. This is the exact one I use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010H8223M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bsBuDbWKVTYAP

It looks great and works like absolute magic. Here's what it looks like on my 3DS: https://i.imgur.com/Qpp7T6j.jpg

And then you can get this case: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UJ9LB6Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZBBuDbZ6BNP2H

Makes it feel like you're holding an xbox controller it's so comfortable. With these two modifications I can hunt for hours straight without the slightest bit of discomfort.

And about MH: Stories, it's just such a nice game. It's unusual to find a game just so bright and happy, and the Pokèmon gameplay is really good IMO and the animations are insane - But it still is Pokémon gameplay, so if you don't like turn-based stuff it's not for you.

What's your recommendation for both portable and desktop use? >$500 US budget. Right now I'm looking at a Fiio E17 and a set of Sennheiser Momentums (over ear). I listen to CD-quality or better lossless files on an iPod/iPhone/MacBook Pro. I don't care about built in iPod controls/mic, but if there's a version of the headphones with that built in, I'll probably get that one. No brand loyalties.

My holy grail headphones would be something in the same design as the Bose Triports (slim, very lightweight, circumaural), but with excellent sound.

Budget - <$500 US. Closer to $350 would be ideal, but $500 if it's worth it (which I think it probably is). I don't currently have a DAC/headphone amp, so I'm hoping to fit that into the total.

Source - iPod, iPhone, MacBook Pro.

Requirements for Isolation - I don't need to block out other sound, but I don't want people sitting next to me in the library to hear my music. This is important to me.

Preferred Type of Headphone - Circumaural preferred, but on the slimmer side--I would also consider IEMs. My only experience with IEMS was a set of $80 Ultimate Ears that I found uncomfortable and difficult to achieve a good seal with. They broke after ~6 years of light use.

Preferred tonal balance - I'm not sure, although I know I don't want a ton of extra bass.

Past headphones - Right now I'm using a set of Sennheiser HD280 Pros at my desk, and some Klipsch S4i's for walking around. Both are fine, but neither really blows me away. I once had 5 minutes alone with some HD800s, and I've been pining after that kind of sound ever since. I know I can't afford to get there right now, but I'd like to get a little closer. Also, I don't want these new headphones to be as big as the 280's, if possible. I find them too big and heavy to wear walking around.

Preferred Music - A little of everything, but a lot of rock. Usually punk, pop-punk, power metal, 80s/90s pop rock--mainly vocal and guitar heavy stuff. I want to clearly hear the bass, but it should never overpower the rest of the instruments. I also listen to quite a bit of acoustic guitar, and some classical piano.

Location - US.

I have this one mounted on my roof. It's worked well for years. I don't recall there being ranged models when I bought it, but it was about $100 in 2012. You'll need a clear line of sight of the southern horizon for the best reception due to the distance we are from the DFW towers. Higher is better; you'll want at least 25-35 feet off the ground. The top of a 2 story home is easily high enough. YMMV with a 1 story without a taller mounting pole.

Thank you! Very helpful reply. I've just started reading up on this sub, and it seems like a MoCA is a better implementation of a powerline. Actually, it sounds exactly like a powerline, except that instead of using the house's electrical wiring, the MoCA uses the coax connection. Am I understanding the technology correctly?

I do have one coax output in my room (where desktop 1 is located) which goes straight to the modem. This room is also where the router is located.

In the living room, I do have another coax output for where the cable box for the TV should go. Since I've currently cut the cord, we stream TV from the Xfinity app, and I've returned the cable box. This means I do have a coax cable free in the living room.

What I can do is connect a MoCA in the living room, and use my existing wifi extender to broadcast a signal from the MoCA.

Additionally, I can also get a small unmanaged switch (maybe 2-3 ports) and use that to directly hardwire the playstation that is sometimes used for video streaming! The MoCA to switch shouldn't have too many issues, right?

Are there any MoCAs that you'd recommend? Amazon has quite a few.

I'm also seeing a MoCA filter.. However, I do not have access to the exterior cabling, so would this be of any use to me?

Just for the rack, or is that for everything.

if everything, you should be able to get a basic 300lb weight set at your current sporting good store for around $300, but check craigslist, as you can get weight much cheaper

for a basic rack, I like this
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UMM4QC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AZW93HRN28RCX

for a bench, I like this http://www.amazon.com/Valor-Athletics-Inc-DA-Bench/dp/B001TJCHES/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

and that should put you around the $800-900 mark depending on if you can get some used weights or not. This pretty much covers the basics, to get you started with Starting Strength


If $800 is just for the rack, then you are probably able to get much better equipment, and I would probably get a package from rogue, as their products are good. So a R3 Rack, weights, bench, and a bar in one package, would come out to about $1500-1700. This would be bumper plates, so would be safe to drop on a platform


other things I would buy

you can get horse stall mat from tractor supply co, and some OSB to make a platform for deadlifting and cleans

A weight tree if conventional weights, or make a weight holder for bumpers, http://board.crossfit.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2060&d=1216003868

College Rulez! (Heh....heh...)

So my major is Visual Communications! And here is how ITT Tech fucked us VC students over:

So upon the beginning of the year as I met with my administrator telling him about my huge passion for gaming and I really wanted to be a game designer! Here is what he said in a nutshell:

"Well our gaming courses are fantastic and you will learn everything you need to know to get a job! But first, we require you to obtain your Associates in Graphic Design. Many job offers require you to have experience with Adobe Programs and other graphic design programs. So just finished getting your Associates, then we will find you a job and they can pay for your Bachelors courses! YAY! :D"

But that wasnt the case. About 3 months before finishing my Associates quarters as my anticipation for gaming courses built up, they sent my classmates and I a bit of bad news. 'ITT will be cancelling your Bachelors program but only for VC student. Sorry.'

So here I was pissed off that I had a degree I dont want, but heres the funny part. I have grown to love graphic design and I am pursuing my Bachelors in graphic design and couldnt enjoy it more! :D

If I win, then I could really use [this] (http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-DVI-Cable-Adapter-DVIVGAMF/dp/B000067SOH/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=EYB47AJ077Y1&coliid=I2E1NQR8CA3G1T) for dual screen. It would help alot when designing! :D Thanks for the contest!

I have Eeros and am a big fan, but it sounds like you need some hardwired connections. One option that worked well for me was using the preinstalled coax cable in my last apartment. Every room seemed to have coax hookups, and I could run it over the same coax that spectrum was running my internet connection on.

What you'd want is a MoCA adapter (or really, at least 2, one per end) to inject ethernet over coax and then pull it off elsewhere in the house. Had 450Mbps at my Xbox 2 floors away from the modem, and an eero beacon on the other side of the room for wifi devices.

I used these from Amazon with great success. You'd also want to put a high-pass filter on the incoming connection from the street to keep your network private.

As for wiring it up: Modem <--> Eero <--> MoCA <--> Coax Cable (the same one the internet was going to the modem on) <--> MoCA (in another room on a different floor) <--> switch <--> TV, Xbox, Receiver, etc. And the filter on the coax splitter outside coming from the street.

I have been using this one for about half a year with a lot of success. I also bought a big pack of AmazonBasics long HDMI cables to go with it. I think at the beginning I had one issue with a screen flickering, but I unplugged and replugged and I haven't had an issue for a long time. My real issue is when I'm playing PS4 in the morning and my PS3 comes on to auto-update and this switcher auto-switches to the PS3. Gah! Wait a min switchy thing. Just have to push the button on it to force switch when that happens. I like it so far.

https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y

If it helps, I have a PS4, PS3, Steam Streamer Box, PS2, and Wii all plugged into it going into a Samsung HDMI TV (not 4K).

If you're curious, I have HDMI adapters in the Wii and PS2, so that's how that works. They also are great and I got them off Amazon, can't recall which obscure brand. Though they do occasionally have their issues since they're all weird knockoff checp things.

Yeah that's what I've heard about wetness, hopefully won't be much of a problem... As for a stove I'm not sure, I was thinking something [cheap and small like this] (http://www.amazon.com/Ultralight-Backpacking-Canister-Stove-Ignition/dp/B004U8CP88/ref=pd_sim_sbs_sg_1) which seems to have pretty good reviews. The Soto looks awesome, would it be a good idea to invest a bit more into a stove or will a cheap one work fine? They all seem to be fairly simple for what they are

I can't find any docks with Dual Link, but with DP output you can use an active DP to DVI-DL adapter. As I said, they are quite expensive. I will give you a link to one that should work just so you can see what to look for. I have no idea if it's good and it's one of the more expensive ones. Link. They don't have to have a USB cable for additional power, but many do.

In the description look for "2560x1600 at 60Hz". Some will say "Will only work with computers able to output DVI signals at 340Hz". That's not a thing, it's just that if it was possible Single Link would work at Dual Link speeds. This makes their product technically not a scam. At the bottom of the reviews, click "See all xxx reviews". You will then get a search bar. Search for either the resolution you need or 144Hz as that's a bit more popular with DVI-DL. If it supports 144Hz it will support 2560x1600 and vice versa.

If you are uncertain feel free to post one you are considering. I can only tell you if it should work as these are very often fragile and break easily.

Hey everyone!

I was wondering if anyone has any experience hooking up a Crack with their Xbox One Controller. Last year I was running my ATH-M50 (with a Modmic) directly though my controller and that worked with no issues.

However, after building my Crack and getting the HD650, I've just tried to plug in the Crack into the 3.5 jack in the controller - but get no audio. Plugging the HD650 directly into the controller does work though - but obviously then they are not amped.

Anyone have any suggestions? I am cross-posting on /r/XboxOne and on the Bottlehead forum as well.

Please save me from resorting to using them unamped lol

Here's the RCA Cable I am using from my Crack: which works perfectly fine through my laptop and phone

Deleted my separate post as I realized it was not in accordance with Rule 3.

Can you be more specific as to the particular stove(s) you're looking at on amazon?

A few months ago, I was looking for a cheap backpacking stove and stumbled upon this one on amazon.

Seems to have pretty favorable reviews, and I was going to order it, until I realized that it would be shipping from Hong Kong. If I'd had the time to wait for shipping, I would have purchased it, but I needed something right away.

That being said, I ended up just going to my local REI and picking up the MSR pocket rocket and have been extremely impressed with the performance. It also feels extremely durable, I'd highly recommend it.

Also....that one on amazon has an electronic ignition. It's nice, but the other components will probably outlive it. Plus you're already carrying matches/lighter so it's not like the lack of ignition on the MSR is extra weight.


Just my thoughts!

>Can I run the powered speaker through that DAC?

yes plug an RCA cable from the back of the DAC to the speaker

>I also don't have optical on my mobo if that affects anything.

no the DAC will also work through USB connection

>Should the 580X with 150Ohm be fine for the X6

I don't know much of anything about headphones, but apparently 150 ohm is still in a territory where portable players "don't need an amp", so I'm guessing you're good

>Is this setup good enough (not good just good enough)) for a budget upgrade from onboard audio and HD 280 + $15 logitech speakers.

again I don't know about headphones but yes the speakers will be a massive upgrade. If your logitech setup had a subwoofer you may have less bass now, but you can add a much better subwoofer than PC speakers have later if need be.

>Do I need to buy speaker wires for the Micca?

no, it comes with some.

If you can't run an ethernet cable directly, MoCA is usually your best bet. Other options include ethernet over powerline or wireless (but both of those are less reliable than MoCA). Ethernet cables can also run a pretty decent distance (~300ft), so you could look at whether running the cable up through the attic and back down (along the same path as the coax) is an option.

Yes, you will need 2 MoCA adapters. On both sides, they convert ethernet<->coax. So on the router side you'll plug the moca ethernet port into your router and you'll have a bit of a loop: Coax->Modem->Router->MoCA Adapter->Coax. On the office side it'll just be coax->ethernet.

It's also often recommended to get a MoCA filter, something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Filter-MoCA-Cable-Coaxial-Networking/dp/B00DC8IEE6. Install this device as the first thing on the cable that enters your house. It's designed to filter out the MoCA signal so that your network doesn't travel up the cable and into your neighbor's houses. You want your MoCA network to be active on all the coax within your house, but not leak out past that.

One final small note is that MoCA works as more than just a point-to-point network. If you have more rooms to connect that have coax, you can just add adapters and they'll all join the same network.

Here's a youtube video that covers moca pretty well: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rhCaZqxVAJE

Thanks! I do have a few:

• What's the status on getting a Tablo app for the Samsung SmartTV? I have a Chromecast, but I would like to have one less device in the middle.
  
• Will recording 2 shows at once influence the quality of the playback?
  
• What would you recommend for an antenna? I have this one in mind.
  
• What's the minimal recommended external HD size you'd recommend?
  
  Thanks.

I have one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/GANA-Composite-Converter-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B01L8GG6PW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495980818&sr=8-3&keywords=av+to+hdmi

And it works pretty well with a few caveats:

• It only outputs 16:9 widescreen, so unless you like your games stretched you need to set the aspect ratio to 4:3 on your tv, and some tvs don't have that option
  
  
• Depending on the tv and how that tv handles scaling, it can have some lag. I've only had one tv where it was noticable when playing Punch Out, and when I set the video mode to "GAME" that fixed it to the point where if there was any lag I didn't notice.
  
  
• Finally, you need to use the tv's usb port, or a nearby outlet to power it.
  
  Aside from those things, it's pretty great for the price. I mean NES with it doesn't looks as good as the AVS, but it's a lot better than composite and a pretty good compromise I think.

Corsair Vengeance 1300/1500 look pretty decent. The 1500's come with a USB connection so no sound card required. Atro A40's are also pretty popular (though a bit on the expensive side for gaming headphones 200+ USD) and comes with a nice little mix amp.

If you want better audio quality (for music/movies) I would look at possibly the HD 598's (or cheaper 558's with a little mod) or the ATH-D700. Note that Amazon has a headphone sale on at the moment and the D700's are going for around ~90 USD (Link). The bass isn't as strong as the 598's but they are considerably less expensive. Both the 598 and the D700 are open headphones so you get a lot of sound leakage (which may be an issue). Also you will need to get a mic, something like the Zalman clip on or the AntLion Modmic. A cheap DAC/AMP would also go well with either headphone, something like the Fiio E17 would be fine.

>Don't let it fool you, its super powerful, and I have even dropped it a couple of times on accident. It's built like a tank. I was thinking about buying two so I can keep one at mom and dads when I visit.

These types of things are awesome. I have this one and I have the same things to say about it. Way more powerful than a compressed air can, constant air flow, and super durable. Everyone should have one of these.

I've built a bunch! Those instructions are fine. Only thing I'd change is I'd use a round speaker terminal cup in step #14, rather than the square one they show in the picture. Something like this in other words. Just because it's easier to cut a round hole -- you can just use a round circle cutting bit in your drill. You can get them for as low as like $2ea on Amazon or elsewhere.

> Do I need an amplifier?

Something like a cheap Lepai is fine.

A "real" amp like this or this or a used home theater amp for $50 from Craigslist will more or less get the full 100% of performance from the Overnight Sensations at higher volumes. A small Class D amp like this is a good compromise IMHO.

All of those amps ought to sound the same at low volumes. For "desktop listening" where you're sitting a few feet away, the Lepai should get plenty loud.

> Do I need a digital to audio converter?

Probably not. With the possible exception of the Lepai, all the amps I linked to have a dual RCA audio input. The typical "red and white audio inputs" you've surely seen in many places. All you need is a basic headphone-to-RCA adapter like this, assuming your music playing thingy has a headphone jack.

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105597-3-Feet-Premium-Stereo/dp/B0094A1F3S/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1483958406&sr=8-4&keywords=headphone+to+rca

I'm not an expert on display cables but from the looks of it, it seems display port to Dual Link DVI D requires a bit of active conversion for the higher resolutions.

"The DisplayPort LVDS signal protocol is not compatible with DVI or HDMI. However, Dual-mode DisplayPorts are designed to transmit a single-link DVI or HDMI 1.2/1.4 TMDS protocol across the interface through the use of an external passive adapter that selects the desired signal and converts it from 3.3 volts to 5 volts. Analog VGA and dual-link DVI require powered active adapters to convert the protocol and signal levels and do not rely on Dual-Mode. VGA adapters are powered by the DisplayPort connector, while dual-link DVI adapters may rely on an external power source (see Dual-mode).[6]"

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DisplayPort

Seems like the adapter cost almost half the price of the card...

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY

But like Ponky mentioned. There will probably be versions with DVI.

• Yes I made sure each smart tv does in fact have ethernet ports to connect to. So I am good there. The tech guy really confused me when I asked him if my hypothetical setup would be sufficient which is how I found this sub lol. He mentioned the installed booster might conflict things???
  
• Switch description states "Gigabit Ethernet Easy Smart Switch."
  
• The Moca I linked states in the description as bonded. I asked him if the moca filter would be necessary as well. He just shrugged at me.
  
  
• Which would you think to be the more ideal setup - switch or moca?

The USB is possibly for power so plug that in the PS4.

You’ll need an adapter for the separate cables. I use this Sennheiser adapter with my gaming solution. If this doesn’t work then you’ll have to return your headset.

Just about everyone, myself included, will recommend you don’t buy all-in-one gaming headsets as they are often overpriced for what they are. Instead it’s often cheaper and will almost always yield better sound quality to buy a headphone and then attach a 3rd party microphone (like a modmic, zalman mic, or V-Moda boompro).

Good luck! Link is below :)

https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-PCV-05-Combo-Adapter/dp/B00IM36VU0

If you don't already have a good soundcard like a Xonar or HT|Omega, you're on a laptop, or you use multiple devices and you use headphones I recommend one of these FiiO E17 amps. It takes basically every input type, runs of battery if you want to use it in a portable setting. If you use Coax or Toslink it will support dolby3d and other virtual 3d setups. Use it with the ipod adapter and you can bypass the internal dac on your iphone/ipad/ipod to get really good sound.

Pretty much the best bang:buck you can get for portable amps/dac.

Not OP but, the Titan T-2 design is a prevalent design from a number of manufacturers. ex. Atlas Power Rack and RepFitness Power Rack

From the Repfitness website they list the specs of the 2x2 uprights as 14 gauge. That translates to a 5/64" or ~2mm thick steel. Compared to the R-3 (T-3) 11 gauge steel which is 1/8" or ~3.175mm

The 2x2 14 gauge racks are advertised as capable of holding 700lbs on the j-cups. Comparatively the 11 gauge 2x3 racks can hold 1000lbs

For the average home gym user that weight differential is negligible. Realistically the only time someone would approach the maximum weight capacity would be on one exercise, the squat. And for either rack I'd suggest not ever dumping that kind of weight from max height onto the safeties.

So both racks perform their primary function comparably. Why would someone go for the T-3 over the T-2? That's just personal preference on a number of things. But here are the main differences. The T-2 doesn't need to be bolted to the floor or platform. The T-3 (R-3) has the westside hole spacing throughout the benching area. T-3 has both a 1.25" and 2" pull up bar. There are more compatible accessories (thanks to Rogue) for the T-3. Like OP you can buy spotter arms and bench outside the rack on the T-3.

Of course the ability to modify and expand upon the T-3(R-3) comes with the caveat of cost. The rack is more expensive and the accessories will be too.

I use two of these at work, AMA.

Amazon has this listed at $124.26, so this is $24.27 or about 20% off.

Personal recommendation: They're only 21.5", but the color on them is good and at $99 I think they're worth the price. Haven't done any gaming on them, only office work. One of the monitors had some kind of fault that made it randomly turn off, but I was never able to locate the problem and it seems to have righted itself over time. The base is nice and flat, great for sticking a stack of sticky notes or whatever. Biggest complaint aside from the size is the glossy finish. I work in a bright office, so I'm not looking at a white screen (like reddit or Word), I can see a pretty good reflection of everything behind me.

UPDATE: Someone just reminded me, this monitor is VGA and DVI only. You'll need an adapter if you want to use HDMI or DisplayPort. I use a VGA to DVI adapter for one monitor and a DVI to HDMI cable for the other.

Well you've got a subwoofer, and an amplifier that isn't meant to work with a subwoofer, so that's the bulk of the problem.

The TV has a headphone and an optical out... the Headphone output you can use with a 3.5mm to stereo RCA cable, which is good... but The BasX S8 has line level in and out, but that's only going to work with one source, so no matter what there are going to be sacrifices made, here.

​

Here is my proposed method:

​

• This optical cable out from television ($9)
  
• To THIS DAC ($20)
  
• This Chromecast Audio ($35) (or you could use a bluetooth adapter to play your phone, with lower quality audio)
  
• Using THIS Cable plugged into Chromecast Audio and to DAC ($12)
  
• TWO Sets of THESE RCA Cables ($9 each), one from DAC to Subwoofer's LINE LEVEL IN, one from Subwoofers LINE LEVEL OUT, to Yamaha AMP input
  
  Total cost: $95
  
  But you'd need to run an aux cable/bluetooth/chromecast audio to have phone input on the yamaha anyway. Obviously if you have any of these cables you can save the money. RCA cables are pretty easy to find. So are optical cables.
  
  If music is more important to you than tv sound, you could run the optical cable to the chromecast and the 3.5mm rca to coaxial from the headphone output of your tv... your choice.
  
  ​
  
  The dac needs to exist because your amp lacks bass management and a subwoofer output.
  
  You will then use the subwoofer's crossovers to control the bass it receives and what it is sending out to the amplifier, and your Q100's will get the rest.
  
  ​
  
  ​
  
  ​
  
  ​

The most important maintenance of any computer (so be it pc,laptop or dare i say mac) is keeping it dust free as possible. And yes every 2 years change the thermal compound to keep it decent (could do every year if you want but not needed, average lifetime of most compounds is 2 years).

For keeping it dust free try to invest in either canned air (not ideal as it still brings moisture with it sometimes) or a small electric compressor like This.

I've tried two at this point. My first was the standard hard plastic shell a lot of other folks have linked. My second was this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UJ9LB6Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's a lot like the wii-mote condoms but is a little more sturdy. It's actually pretty great and I find it comfortable.

That looks pretty good compared to my report. I used to use a monoprice indoor/outdoor antenna and picked up channels 60 miles away (decent line of sight). This was used indoors and on the first floor. There were a few channels I didn't get, including a VHF one 90 miles away. I put an RCA ANT751 in my attic and pull that channel in now.

For my inlaws I wasn't able to pull in a very good signal with the monoprice because there weren't any broadcast towers that were line of sight. We bought a Clearstream 2V to put on the roof because it looks a lot nicer than the RCA antenna. It ended up working really, and you can use it indoors as well.

So my recommendation is the monoprice antenna, first, and then if you want something better, upgrade to the RCA or Clearstream depending on your decorating style!

So vaccuum cleaners inside cases will destroy sensitive electronics, cause static build up, and generally give my nan cancer, so no shoving the hose inside a case to clean it, that's clear enough (not that it's particularly effective anyway).

OK, but then whenever I try blowing compressed air inside the case, I just end up blowing these great clouds of dust out...which then just end up settling back into the case.

Is there a huge risk with me blowing the air out safely with compressed air or this bad boy which I picked up yesterday, and then having the vaccuum hose just OUTSIDE of the case to suck up the disturbed dust before it has a chance to settle? If I'm holding the hose a good foot or so away from the electronics, then it should be electrostatically safe, right?

I don't think you've considered a power rack, but I think you should.

http://www.amazon.com/Power-Squat-Deadlift-Bench-Racks/dp/B004UMM4QC

A power rack or cage, olympic barbell, with 200lb of weights (to start) and you're equipped for doing the best exercises out there.

Have a look at...

http://stronglifts.com/5x5/

which is a very popular strength training program for beginners.

Here is an example build I found by googling...

https://www.reddit.com/r/Fitness/comments/3mls56/home_gym_500/cvg32b1

As others have said, simply search Amazon for "Bluetooth Receiver" and pick one you like in a price range you can afford. You will find hundreds of them.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=bluetooth+receiver&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

And then using, most likely, RCA-RCA cable of the appropriate length, connect the Bluetooth Adapter to the CD Input on the Amp, and logically select CD on the front panels source selector of the Amp.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-2-Male-RCA-Audio-Cable/dp/B01D5H8P0G/

Though there are many similar RCA-RCA Cables to choose from -

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=RCA+cable&i=electronics&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

You would prefer to have a Bluetooth Adapter that supports version 4.0 or higher, and that has the APT-X or APT-X HD feature.

The ESINKEN and the LOGITECH look pretty much identical, check the specs, but likely either one will do, both about $22 -

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Bluetooth-Audio-Adapter-Streaming/dp/B00IQBSW28/

https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Adapter-Streaming-Wireless-Speakers/dp/B016NUTG5K/

Range on the above is pretty much standard at 30ft to 50ft line-of-sight.

There are better Bluetooth Devices, but they cost a bit more money -

https://www.amazon.com/Avantree-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Receiver-Certified/dp/B01H6I3YGK/

https://www.amazon.com/Avantree-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Receiver-Simultaneously/dp/B07BQYYDNJ/

Again, how far do you want to take it, because there are Bluetooth Devices that can go well above $100.

Hii everyone!

I am absolutely new to the high end headphone scene and would love it if you help out a noob :)

I recently managed to get on the drop for Sennheiser HD6XX from Massdrop and can't wait for it to arrive!

I'll mostly listen music from my MacBook Pro. I know I need a good amp/dac to get the most out of this pair of headphones.

As such, I just ordered a Schiit Magni 2 as I had a limited budget and could only spend on either a DAC or an AMP.

Now my question is, is there something else I need to purchase to make this a complete setup? And, will the cable in the link work for me to connect the amp to the laptop?

Thank you in advance! :)

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-iXCC-Shielded-Gold-Plated-Stereo/dp/B019D048XC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Ran into the same issue a few months ago when I upgraded TV’s. Though modding your N64 would produce the best outcome, if you want an easy cheap solution that works just fine, I used this converter from amazon. It works just fine for casual playing and there is no noticeable input lag. All the best!


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8GG6PW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RLc0DbDW1X6VH

You could manage in $1000 if you buy used and have a little patience. I would say go for floorstanders (like this one) + stereo receivers if you have the space. Otherwise, there are also excellent bookshelves like Mission 731i or Wharfedale Diamonds that will not make a huge dent in your budget. As compared to floorstanders, bookshelves will not be able to give you a good bass response (frankly, I am quite satisfied with my bookshelves) but they save a lot of space. Couple them with a set of good amps (or used stereo receivers from Yamaha/Denon/Kenwood) and place them on stands. You could also add a subwoofer later, if you want to. You can connect your Chromecast device to the amplifiers using a 3.5mm -> RCA connector.

For some reason I can't expand, view your tv report (I'm sure it's something on my side), but I can say that I have a few of these around my property and I'm truly impressed. Can't beat the price. I bought them at $30, but they're almost half the price this week. This one picked way more channels than what Best buy was selling (the Leaf)

1byone TV Antenna, 50 Mile Range Amplified HDTV Antenna with Detachable Amplifier Signal Booster, USB Power Supply and 10 Feet Highest Performance Coaxial Cable-Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IF70T4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3DJIAbHQQCSWZ

I was looking at this one and this one myself. I haven't looked too closely yet, just saw good reviews so tagged them for a closer look at a later date.


Good luck with Prime Two-Day shipping on an inexpensive power rack. The cheapest Prime eligible power rack (like above, full cage, not half racks) that I saw was just over $650 from Amazon with free Prime. It was available for almost $200 less w/ free shipping from other vendors.

I got the 363d, and then this adapter:

http://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-PCV-05-Combo-Adapter/dp/B00IM36VU0

(don't pay $30 for it... $15 at most. That one's sennheiser brand and it's pretty good quality, but I got it for $15 and paid for it with some 'free' amazon credit).

Also got this:

http://www.amazon.com/Xbox-One-Stereo-Headset-Adapter/dp/B00OIPOTYG

which is necessary for '3rd party' headsets. Astros may come with them, and they also come with a mix amp that simulates surround sound. If you want surround sound on Sennheisers you'd need to be a mixamp separately. I haven't had much of a problem though with just stereo.

---

Anyway, I absolutely love the 363Ds and couldn't recommend them highly enough. However, I'm not sure about it since you are primarily using your xbox one. They are the most comfortable headset I've worn, I can use them all day with no feeling of pressure or small headaches. The sound is excellent except for very low bass, but I don't like hearing that anyway :)

Alright, who is downvoting all of the Burn-In recommendations? I have these headphones. They truly sounded much better after leaving them on all night each night playing music (for about a week). Burn-in on these headphones is not "snake oil."

Secondly, I ran them directly from my Creative Soundblaster X-Fi Titanium Fatal1ty soundcard and they sounded alright. However, I really believe you would appreciate the expanded soundstage and more-together (not more) low range after some amping. I bought my brother a FiiO E17(which is great for a low budget), and I liked the combo.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.co.uk/IT-Dusters-EGP-COM-011-CompuCleaner-Electric/dp/B00S7CH6FK&ved=2ahUKEwicxZSJg_PjAhVPasAKHeNpD2gQFjAEegQIBBAC&usg=AOvVaw1pgiOPZyqbfClBZb2r0HVu&cshid=1565258738888 sorry for the big link but I've been using one of these for years and it's great, good pressure good attachments.. works a treat.

Just about any head unit that supports A2DP should work... Just go to crutchfield, sort by features, then buy some place less expensive.
I've had good luck with their scratch and dent section too.

IMO, Bluetooth streaming audio sounds like shit. I would at least consider getting USB audio out to work like this guy so that you could use an external DAC like the Fiio E17 or something similar.


Or if you have room for a double-DIN, you could get a SPH-DA100 with ARLiberator for some awesome HDMI display mirroring and music streaming.

Looks like literally every channel is in one direction, southeast of you. My suggestion is to get a directional antenna like the Clearstream 2 (which was recommended on lifehacker recently as the best directional antenna), point it in the direction of all your channels, and hopefully enjoy a bunch of TV.

Amazon dropped the ball on the Dot.

1. You can hook it up to your Yamaha, but the 3.5mm jack outputs analog only - meaning it uses whatever cheap DAC (digital-analog converter) the $50 Dot has rather than the much better one in your dedicated AV receiver. You'll need a 3.5mm to RCA stereo cable to do this (3.5mm jack plugs into Echo, the L and R RCA jacks into receiver's Audio In). Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Ugreen-Plated-Auxiliary-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B00LM2Y2U4/
   
   
2. Or Bluetooth to send the digital signal to your YBA-11 bluetooth receiver (hooked up to receiver via digital coaxial IN), but Bluetooth is lossy compression and further degrades the quality of whatever you're playing (which is already likely lossy since you'll be streaming). Also a bummer it doesn't at least support Bluetooth AptX. Your Yahama YBA-11 bluetooth does support AptX, but Echo does not.
   
   Just get a cheaper Chromecast Audio - it supports both analog(using 3.5mm or RCA and it's internal DAC like the Dot)... plus a digital out using S/PDIF - you'd connect it to the Optical Digital In connector on your AV receiver with a cable like this: https://www.amazon.com/KabelDirekt-TOSLINK-Optical-Digital-Audio/dp/B00GZQWLF0/
   

Head here: http://geedorah.com/eiusdemmodi/forum/viewtopic.php?id=295
and get an AMD card that's in the supported cards list. Obviously the newer ones will have more power, but I've read roughly HD 5000 series and up is generally good. Also use this link to grab crt emudriver.

Make sure you have a DVI-I to VGA adapter, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-DVI-Cable-Adapter-DVIVGAMF/dp/B000067SOH

Next, get a VGA to 5BNC connector. Something like this, although https://www.amazon.com/Coax-HD15-RGBHV-Monitor-Cable/dp/B0033AF5Y0, although shop around if you want one with higher user reviews, that one has about 3 stars for some reason.

You can roughly follow this guide: http://geedorah.com/eiusdemmodi/forum/viewtopic.php?pid=1052#p1052

Although note that you won't have to disconnect your LCD display/main display while you install CRT emudriver. That's how I did it. I still have my main monitor connected and the crt emudriver monitor is a second monitor.

I personally love my soft grip.

http://www.amazon.com/dreamGEAR-Comfort-GRIP-Protection-your-Nintendo/dp/B00UJ9LB6Y?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

I haven't had any problems with it BUT, full disclosure, you have to pull down soft material to change game cartridges and some people have experienced it wearing out due to swapping game cartridges often.

That said, I literally only play MH4U with very short bouts of MH3U and have had it 9 months and it looks and feels brand new still.

Still a great value for $20.

Eagles fan in Oregon here and complete cable cutter. I usually bite the bullet and get the nfl sunday ticket and its great (given you have a good internet connection). nflstreams can just be super unreliable some weeks. I also make the small investment in a hd antenna like the following:

https://www.amazon.com/1byone-Amplified-Detachable-Performance-Cable-Black/dp/B00IF70T4M/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1501097582&sr=1-4&keywords=hd+antenna

That allows me to catch them if they are on local broadcast and blacked out on the ticket.

The only games I cant get are those on ESPN and NFL Network. Those I will usually find a local sports bar to go watch because they are typically prime time games

Ha, I didn't mean to scare you off. They're perfectly fine for everything. Recording is just their primary use. They sound incredible with anything you throw at them!

If that's all you're doing, ignore my original post and just get an 1/8" to RCA Red/White splitter and you're golden. https://www.amazon.com/Ugreen-Plated-Auxiliary-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B00LM2Y2U4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1483650927&sr=8-3&keywords=3.5mm+to+rca

It'll still sound amazing regardless.

If you still think you messed up, look into the Klipsch Promedia 2.1's. Amazing set of speakers with enough bass to piss off your neighbors, and at a fraction of the cost of the KRK's. It's actually what I sold my KRK's for, because I wasn't doing as much music stuff, haha.

Astro mixamp if you want an amp that can handle both game audio + a game chat (mic).

IF youre ok with an amp just boosting your headset for game audio , you can grab a nice dac amp for $50-$60 off Amazon. I use a dac amp with my Audio Technicas and they sound great. If I want to use my headset + a mic (ModMic in my case), I plug them into my Xbox controller’s 3.5 mm port using an audio y cable. Link at the bottom if you’re interested.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IM36VU0/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_api_FNmUBb4XWDQCJ

90% of the time I use Shure e3c IEM's when tracking drums and a portable FiiO e17 headphone amp to boost the weak signal out of my Tascam US-1800 audio interface. The IEM's are very balanced and unlike the other IEM's I have, ever drum that is mic'd up can be easily distinguished and the highs on the overheads and hi-hat are also very clear so I know if I'm messing up on the more intricate and faster rhythms.

I prefer not having very bass heavy IEM's when tracking because the bass will wash out the other toms and it's more important to hear the click on the kick when playing. I mic the kick with a Shure Beta 52A part way in the resonant head and pointing towards the impact zone and then a 15" PA Speaker I modified to be a microphone for all the super low, sub-like thump, but when I'm recording I turn that down in the mix.

Anyways, the point is that the benefits of tracking with IEM's is that you can hear every single hit even better than if you were listening in the room and also that there is less ear ear fatigue from longer recording sessions. Also, in my opinion at least, when mixing for your monitors (the IEM's in this case) it's better to have more of a flat response than huge bass and low end. I'm not totally sure what the current equivalent to my discontinued headphones are but I'm guessing they would be the Shure SE315 or possibly the Shure SE425 IEM's.

I posted on your old post but here's a build.

Adaptor-

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000067SOH?pc_redir=1395091981&robot_redir=1

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD FX-8320 3.5GHz 8-Core Processor | $152.98 @ SuperBiiz
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | $29.99 @ NCIX US
Motherboard | Asus M5A78L-M/USB3 Micro ATX AM3+ Motherboard | $54.99 @ Micro Center
Memory | Kingston Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $64.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $57.98 @ OutletPC
Video Card | XFX Radeon R9 270 2GB Video Card | $195.91 @ Newegg
Case | Rosewill R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $78.11 @ Amazon
Power Supply | Corsair CX 430W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $32.98 @ Newegg
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available. | $658.93
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-03-18 16:08 EDT-0400 |



And here's a build with a pretty good monitor. (I own the same one and I like it)

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD FX-6300 3.5GHz 6-Core Processor | $109.99 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | $29.99 @ NCIX US
Motherboard | Asus M5A78L-M/USB3 Micro ATX AM3+ Motherboard | $54.99 @ Micro Center
Memory | Kingston Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $64.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 500GB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $50.93 @ Amazon
Video Card | XFX Radeon R9 270 2GB Video Card | $195.91 @ Newegg
Case | Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case | $49.99 @ Micro Center
Power Supply | Corsair CX 430W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $32.98 @ Newegg
Monitor | Hannspree HE225DPB 21.5" Monitor | $137.58 @ Newegg
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available. | $727.35
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-03-18 19:47 EDT-0400 |

Does the Frontier modem have built-in MoCA capabilities by any chance? I had a similar situation in a three story townhome. Each room had coax, and instead of running Ethernet to each of the floors, I utilized a MoCA adapter to provide internet connectivity to the rooms over coax, since each room was already wired for coax. The cable modem provided by Comcast had built-in MoCA capabilities, so all I had to do was ensure all of the coax outlets were on the same splitter, and add a MoCA Ethernet adapter on the other floor to extend network connectivity to my office. Below is my current setup.

[Outside Incoming Coax]
|
[Coax splitter in the Attic]
| -> (Cable modem on 2nd floor) <-> den switch
| -> (MoCA adapter on 1st floor <-> office switch

However, if the Frontier cable modem doesn’t have built-in MoCA capabilities, then you’ll need a second MoCA adapter to terminate the MoCA connection at both ends:

[Outside Coax]
|
[Splitter]
| -> (Coax Outlet #1) -> MoCA Adapter -> Frontier Cable Modem -> switch/router
| -> (Coax Outlet #2) -> MoCA Adapter -> Ethernet Switch

I recommend this kit: “Actiontec Bonded MoCA 2.0 Ethernet to Coax Adapter, 2 Pack (ECB6200K02)” https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013J7O3X0/

You’ll also want to install a MoCA filter on the outside incoming coax line so the MoCA network demarc terminates there and doesn’t extend outside of the home: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DC8IEE6/

Hope it works out! Let me know if that doesn’t make sense, and feel free to PM with questions.

Ok, there are 2 different models of a monitor sort of like that. One is pretty much the exact one I linked, and that has a VGA connector(was used on PCs before DVI came into the market). The newer ones(back is totally clear) used ADC(which combines video, usb, and power into one plug). If you have the VGA one you're in luck,you either just plug it right into the VGA port on your computer, or if you only have DVI, you just need a DVI to VGA adapter. Once you get the monitor connected to your computer, you're all set, just boot up the machine, and it should be ready to go. No software or anything is required.

If it's the kind with the ADC adapter, it's really not worth it, since the adapters for those usually go for over $100. You'll be much better off finding someone selling/giving away a used CRT monitor locally



As far as your other questions go;

2. Don't really think there are many safety precautions you need to take, assuming it hasn't been rained on or anything while in storage. I guess be ready to unplug it when you first test it incase the flyback transformer or something inside is smoking. If you don't have any experience with the inside of CRTs, don't go inside it to clean it out or anything, and you'll be fine.

3. not really sure. Maybe if you put it in a garbage bag outside with one of those anti-bug bomb things or whatever, that will get rid of any insects. Not really sure how safe those are for electronics. Maybe someone else can chime in?

4. Only a little crazy :-P

What a great boombox for audio in/out options! I take it your laptop has a mic/line-in port? If so, my recommendation is to first get yourself two 1/8" stereo-to-dual RCA cables (like these, brand not important).

1. Connect a cable from your headphone jack on the laptop to RCA/line-in on the RX-5090, and a cable from the RCA line-out back to your laptop’s line-in port.
   
2. Set up a new stereo recording track in your DAW set to line in.
   
3. Pop a cassette in that boom box and hit record
   
4. Start recording to that track in your DAW
   
5. Start playback of one of your songs from your laptop (if you’ve made a new stereo track in your existing song session, playback will probably start automatically while recording)
   
6. At this point the audio should go from your laptop’s headphone port -> line in of the 5090 -> cassette -> 5090 line out -> laptop line-in -> DAW, and you’ll end up with a “print” of the audio path via the tape deck. This is exactly how outboard audio effects work.
   
   Rinse and repeat! Hope that helps, I’m happy to clarify more if needed.

First, I would suggest this MoCA adapter. Cheaper and Motorola generally makes reliable equipment.

Motorola MOCA Adapter for Ethernet over Coax, 1,000 Mbps Bonded 2.0 MoCA (Model MM1000) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077Y3SQXR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8lL4AbTZQGZ04

Second, you just need to make sure the coax line your modem is hooked up to is split somewhere and also connected to the room you want the other adapter to be. You'll also want to purchase a MoCa filter to keep your MoCa in and block any other outside MoCa that others may not have blocked on their own.

Filter, MoCA "POE" Filter for Cable TV Coaxial Networking ONLY https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DC8IEE6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qoL4AbWDKZV5D

You'll just need one on the input cable to your home. Best outside where the exterior cable line meets your interior cable line.

I work for a cable company that uses MoCa extensively and I'm a huge fan of it. I've seen MoCa give 200-300 mb consistently using MoCa 2.0. Next best thing to straight Ethernet.

Nice!! Yeah man it works well. I've actually changed my set up since my last post. I now use a Magni 3 so I have my PS4's HDMI to TV and then TV's RCA out to the Magni 3 input. Then Magni to DT770s and separate ModMic directly to controller using one of these

This setup works great for me as I was having a little trouble using a usb dac/amp like I previously posted. For some reason, the usb wouldn't always recognize the mic..

Hope this helps!

Since you are gaming on the PS4, running a good headphone and modmic combo will require ONLY ONE of the following -

1. A dac/amp with USB ($$$)
   Example - Creative G6 is $150. There are others but this is a good starting point.
   
2. A splitter so you can connect the headphone and mic to your controller $)
   Example - https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-PCV-05-Combo-Adapter/dp/B00IM36VU0/ref=sr_1_2?crid=F4345XWFRIM0&keywords=sennheiser+splitter&qid=1556639491&s=gateway&sprefix=sennhei%2Caps%2C185&sr=8-2
   
3. USB soundcard compatible with the PS54 ($)
   Example - https://antlionaudio.com/collections/accessories/products/antlion-audio-usb-sound-card
   
   Personally my current setup for PS4 is a Creative SoundBlasterX G6 dac/amp connected to a HD 600 and modmic 4.0. Extreme overkill headphones but I mainly use it on PC and the G6 allows me to effortless switch between the two. Also I don't like the audio out of the PS4 controller in general so I did not opt for that method.
   
   For $250 I would suggest getting a good set of cans and then using option 2 (splitter) or 3 (compatible usb sound card) to start with. If you don't like the audio quality, then move up to the dac/amp.
   
   Now coming to the closed back can's that you want, there are a few good options that come to mind (please note the order is not a ranking of preference, simply what came to mind first) :
   
   
4. Beyerdynamic DT 770 32 Ohm- $180 on Amazon.com
   
5. Sennheiser HD 569- $110 on Amazon.com
   
6. Sennheiser HD 598 Cs- $ 150 on Amazon.com
   
   ​
   
   I would also wait a while for others in this subreddit to give you their choices in closedback headphones.

I'm out of town for the weekend but I'm pretty sure I have this exact one.

https://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS

I have my cable box -> splitter -> Xbox HDMI in. I've had this splitter for at least 3 years. I originally got it when I was in college so I could have an awesome man cave. Found out later that it strips the hdcp and allowed me to stream my cable TV to my windows tablet from my xbox. Heres a link for a little more info on hdcp stripping.

http://www.tweaking4all.com/home-theatre/remove-hdcp-hdmi-signal/

For a tent I have the Ledge Scorpion 2. It's light, small, freestanding, has an optional tarp for when it rains, and good ventilation.

You can get a decent sleeping bag at Academy. I have a No Limits 32 degree tent. I wouldn't get anything rated colder than that because they'll be too big. Mine is basically as big as you should ever get. I'd recommend smaller.

For bed roll I I have the Alps Comfort Series. It rolls real flat and is inflatable by mouth.

For cooking system I use this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004U8CP88/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1. It's extremely light and small. Works great with this for cookware: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0037DD3R4/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

Don't forget about a good backpack and a good water purification equipment.

I would not recommend the Leaf. Not because it isn't a good product, but because Grand Rapids has a couple unique and, frankly, annoying traits when it comes to our local broadcasts.

First, the actual broadcast towers of most of our stations are quite a long distance away from the city. WOOD-TV's tower, for example, is down south by Gun Lake. By the time these signals reach the city, they are weaker than what you'd find in most other markets of this size.

Second, most antennae, including the Leaf, are optimized to pick up UHF signals. As luck would have it, most of the GR stations broadcast in the less-common VHF spectrum. The literature of the Leaf will SAY it works fine for VHF, but that hasn't been my experience.

I tried the Leaf at my house in NE GR and could only get WGVU and FOX. I returned it and got a larger unit that I mounted in my attic. I am able to get ABC, NBC, FOX, WGVU, and another half-dozen stations like Ion that I never watch. The only semi-local station that I'm not able to get is CBS out of Kalamazoo due to the longer distance.

This is the unit I bought: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007RH5GZI/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There are a number of options out there, but make sure you get one that specifically talks about its VHF capabilities. In general, mounting an antenna in your attic or an upper floor will give you much better results. If you can mount on the outside of the house, you'll get even more.

Not OP but this is the one I bought.


OP's looks much nicer, but for $20 this one works great for me, I have large enough hands to palm a basketball and they never get uncomfortable with this grip. It comes in 2 separate piece so I left the top cover off and only use the bottom part.

I would try something like this inside or near the window. It is a small outdoor antenna but should work better than that piece of paper any flat antenna. If you can get it on the patio or somehow mounted to the outside of the window that would be even better.

I'm sure you can make your own antenna, but how well would it work for your situation? Hmmm..don't know, you might end up spending $100 in material and still not have a good enough antenna. If you can find some schematics to follow online, that might be okay.

You have to use this box
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G5RXM16/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_wngBwbR4EXJYY

This antenna
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008KVUAGU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_dpgBwbF0NJGX5

Set these up and plug into your Xbox and boom local channels in HD! Now you don't have to use these exact products but get something similar. I just recommended these because this is the setup I use. Hope that helps and if you have any other questions feel free to ask. Sorry for the format I'm on mobile

Hello, I am looking at one of these antennas and was hoping to get some opinions on what antenna would be best for me? Any help is greatly appreciated.

https://www.amazon.com/1byone-Amplified-HDTV-Antenna-Detachable/dp/B00IF70T4M/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1485833437&sr=8-3&keywords=ota+antenna

I don't like how the bench is attached to the rack.

You might like something like this that adds the possibility of doing squats:

http://www.amazon.com/Golds-Gym-XRS-Olympic-Bench/dp/B009PA1KJG/

I have one of these for my home gym:

http://www.amazon.com/Power-Squat-Deadlift-Chrome-Safety/dp/B004UMM4QC/

I like it a lot since I can do pretty much any compound exercise and having the safety pins is a huge plus. Im not sure how I would feel benching heavy weight with the adidas bench when there is no safety mechanism.

What’s your Wii cable setup like? I was using the hyperkin Wii2HDMI cable and was having the same problem.

I play retro games so I had this problem at first but my solution was one of these. I run all of my old consoles to an AV switcher which outputs to a composite splitter. One set of cables is run to my crt tv, the other pair is ran to that AV2HDMI, which is then fed to the elgato. You could forego the splitter altogether, but I like playing on the CRT for authenticity purposes. It’s probably not the best quality just blowing it up like that with the HDMI “upscale”, but at least it was spitting out a signal the elgato liked.

Based on what I have read its hit or miss. If you want to guarantee a high refresh, you need upgrade your monitor, otherwise switch back to HDMI and be happy with it.

Given the cost of true ACTIVE adapters (https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-DVI-Adapter-Dual-Link/dp/B00A493CNY/) a new monitor would be a much better investment of your money.

I've never heard of "ahere" as a manufacturer, so I suspect it's a marketing company rather than a company that actually makes and tests the antennas. You have gotten some nice suggestions for antennas people know to be good.

I had good luck with both my ChannelMaster CM4228, but it's large; probably too large for your attic. This ClearStream 4V didn't work as well for me for a very weak VHF station, but my brother in law is using it and likes it. They make a 60 mile version that is smaller and can probably fit in your attic space.

I think upofadown's suggestion for either a Winegard HD7694 or ChannelMaster CM-2018 are good choices. But they are 78" long, and they can be hard to fit into small spaces.

Anything MSR cooking is aweaome, and then for a cheap pocket stove, check this out:

http://www.amazon.com/Ultralight-Backpacking-Canister-Stove-Ignition/dp/B004U8CP88/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1344822829&sr=8-10&keywords=pocket+stove

It's a great great value. If you buy that and the MSR skillet with a gas canister, you're good to go for a while.

It's been about 8 years since I last had this issue (at the time was a 1440p 60fps screen but same issue fundamentally) so really not sure what about these days, back then the adapter ran at around £150 so I ended up not bothering selling the screen on and buying a new one with native DP.

Wish I could be more help but I would be very surprised if that isn't the issue your facing.

something like https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-DVI-Adapter-1920x1200/dp/B00A493CNY?th=1

OK, I really tried to do the Dropbox thing but I failed miserably ... and I suck at Reddit formatting, so please excuse me but I appreciate your help and expertise.

POE Filter can be found here: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DC8IEE6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That is on the line right as it gets into the house.

That goes into an Antronix 3 way splitter 5-1002MHz
Model #: CMC2003BH-A
Each output shows -5.58dB out

Output 1: Home Phone/Kitchen TV (Non Tivo Connected)
Antronix FRA1-1510 Forward/Return amplifier/Splitter to get my home phone to work, One of the two Coax cables goes to power the modem for the home phone, the other for the non-TiVo TV

Output 2: CommScope 2 way splitter Model SV-2G 5-1002MHz one goes to the guest bedroom where we previously had the other Mini and it worked fine (one we moved to basement) and the other goes to the Master Bedroom where a Mini that works fine currently is

Output 3: Same two way splitter as Output 2. One goes to the cable modem I provided details for above and the other goes to the Tuning Adapter Model Cisco STA 1520

Here is a problem ... in doing all of this I realized I can't trace back the coax to the basement one that is having issues, but hopefully with all of the information I have provided maybe some steps can be taken to alleviate that.

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!

I might consider that, I assumed you meant something like this https://www.amazon.com/dreamGEAR-Comfort-GRIP-Protection-your-Nintendo/dp/B00UJ9LB6Y

Looks cool and also pretty useful, so I might get one, thanks!

I bought this one to use with my PS3:

https://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478808828&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=Orei+HD-102+1x2+1+Port+HDMI+Powered+Splitter+Ver+1.3+Certified+for+Full+HD+1080P+and+3D+Support+One+Input+to+Two+Outputs+%28Black%29

Worked like a charm when I did extra life. Hope it helps! :)

Yes, just make sure to use an active converter. The passive (unpowered) ones can't pass enough bandwidth to the monitor to drive 1920x1080@144hz. I have three of the active connectors and they work fine. Expensive, though! (~ $100).

Here's an Amazon link for the ones I use:
https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Dual-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY

I agree with /u/qkslvr8216 and i think it was an amazing investment if you want to protect ur 3DS like a baby. Then again im a germaphobe and a person with OCD so i like to keep my 3DS extremely clean.

The grip had a chemical smell for the first month but eventually it will be gone. Also, the grip might trigger L/R buttons randomly because of its sizing(not really an issue when ur playing pokemon).

Overall I highly recommend it! This was the one I bought.

I think you need a grip. I have a NN3DSXL and I use this grip:

http://www.amazon.com/Monster-Hunter-Cross-hunting-Nintendo-3DS/dp/B016XCSBC2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458922077&sr=8-1&keywords=monster+hunter+x+gear

It makes my DS just as comfortable as an XBOX 360 controller. Its a little expensive now though.

This one is priced pretty well and its super comfy. I used it before the XGear

http://www.amazon.com/dreamGEAR-Comfort-GRIP-Protection-your-Nintendo/dp/B00UJ9LB6Y/ref=pd_sim_63_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41YTAgSfpML&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=09KBYP97GKZHT6HWYKDW

The cheapest I would go would be this Dayton bundle. If you can spend an extra $15 or so and make this same combo with the Dayton B652 Air speakers instead, that would be even better. Otherwise, you could also get the Dayton B452 Speakers with that same amp as the cheapest solution, but that 4-1/2" driver isn't going to deliver the lows like the 6-1/2" will, so really splurge for the larger size if you can. You likely also need a this cord if your TV has analog audio out. If it has Optical audio out, you will need this cable instead.

Hope this helps. Good luck.

Exactly. A proper stereo is the solution here. Use a decent amp and speakers for the audio and pair it with an Echo Dot to control it, using the line out jack on the Dot to connect it to the amp.

If /u/Treas0n is looking for a good budget option, I'd highly recommend the Lepai amp + Dayton speaker setup. This setup is the go-to budget kit on /r/audiophile and would be plenty loud with really good sound quality. It's about $90 for the whole kit (+$30-$50 for an Echo Dot):

Lepai LP-2020TI Texas Instruments TPA3118 Hi-Fi Stereo Audio Mini Amplifier with Power Supply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071FJF4FF/ (don't go for this one anymore, grab a tripath version)

Kinter K2020A+ Limited Edition ORIGINAL Tripath TA2020-020 Class-T Hi-Fi Audio Mini Amplifier with 12V 5A Power Supply Black https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077Z7DBRT

Dayton Audio B652-AIR 6-1/2" 2-Way Bookshelf Speaker with AMT Tweeter Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NOA58RS/

AmazonBasics 16-Gauge Speaker Wire - 50 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LW0WDQ/

Monoprice 105597 3-Feet Premium Stereo Male to 2RCA Male 22AWG Cable - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0094A1F3S/

If the OP wants even bigger sound then add a powered sub for $100 more (you may want to double up on your 16ga speaker wire for connecting the subwoofer between the stereo speakers and the amp)

Polk Audio PSW10 10-Inch Powered Subwoofer (Single, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KVQBA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IEFWBbD0GFQVW

I splurged and got a little pricier one: http://amzn.com/B0049SCB2Y

I was going to get a cheap 3 input one, but the 3 input from this brand wasn't much more. And then once I had that it wasn't much more for the 5 input. I too had three devices and one input, so I decided to get the 5 input switcher in case I added a device in the future. Now I'm glad I did since I'll be adding a chrome cast.

I've only had it for a few weeks so I can't give you a long term review, but so far it's worked great. I just have my Wii U and PS3 plugged into it right now and it automatically switches between the two. I don't think it will work with a Roku though, because the always on screensaver thing will make the switcher think it's always playing something. It comes with a remote control to switch manually. My TV has 3 inputs so I'll be putting the chromecast in one, Roku in one, and the switcher in the other for all my gaming systems and cable box.

If you can afford it, pick up one of these to go along with your SMSL, https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Sanskrit-Optical-Coaxial-Decoder/dp/B00SY9RBOM, then you'll have additionally a usb dac + rca out's, and then you can really get going.. you might also consider picking up https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10906&cs_id=1090602&p_id=9723&seq=1&format=2 which will help fill in your little audio experience. takes a line-in & line-out back into your amp, and then you got sub-base as well. I love these rca cables, they sound amazing, https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-2-Male-RCA-Audio-Cable/dp/B01D5H8P0G/

Yeah, it's compressed air and a propellant, like butane or something, to make it expand even more. That's why the shit gets cold when you spray it. I think I might just get something like this, though. Mini-reverse vaccuum. That's all one really needs. Never buy canned air again!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008EQ4BQG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are the ones I have. I put them in myself. They were pretty easy to install. You go to the modem, and disconnect the coax going into the modem. Plug the coax from the wall into the moca adapter in. Then plug the moca adapter coax out cord into the modem in. Your router should be already hooked up then you just plug an ethernet cable from your router to the moca adapter.

Then on the other end, where you want the internet, you just plug the other moca adapter into the coax, and an ethernet cable from your moca adapter to the computer. Sounds complicated, but was really pretty easy to hook up. I did have some problems where they stopped working a couple of times. I think it was related to the fact that if you don't have a terminating filter the signal can go out of your house, I got one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Filter-MoCA-Cable-Coaxial-Networking/dp/B00DC8IEE6/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00DC8IEE6&pd_rd_r=KV9MW2G56NMKNDZY9FD9&pd_rd_w=Kicrs&pd_rd_wg=BnTIO&psc=1&refRID=KV9MW2G56NMKNDZY9FD9

And plugged it in in my outside cable box and they have worked trouble free for me since October 2015. I like very much not having to depend on wifi

I purchased these in August 2014. They are both still like new in box condition. I recently upgraded my desktop to utilize TRS/ XLR because the RCA connections created a static background with my powered speaker while playing games. I never had any issues while listening to music or watching videos. If you don't use a powered speaker, or if you don't play games through speakers, this is an awesome DAC/ AMP pair.

I did use the E17 in my car for about a year to act as a signal amplifier to my radio input. But I always kept it in the case so it doesn't have any scratches. They look brand new. The only issue I would mention is that the LCD screen does show a "burn in" because I have used it almost every day and so the text "USB IN" is visible on the screen. If you don't understand what I mean by LCD Burn In just ask and I will try to get a picture of it.

I'm having trouble finding the specs on FiiO's website, so I'm including these Amazon links for reference. When I get off work I'll try to do a little more digging.

https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Alpen-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0070UFMOW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1510938798&sr=8-2&keywords=FiiO+E17&dpID=41txNfEtYYL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Output-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B008J26ZL4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1510938798&sr=8-4&keywords=FiiO+E17&dpID=41CpZWsDoyL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I paid $248 for the pair of these, and I'm firm with my $150 price. Shipping will be $10 USPS Priority Medium Flate Rate. Paypal preferred, but I'll accept a check. They will ship once the check clears, which takes about 3-5 days.

I realize I'm new here, so I'm happy to use a middle man if that's a thing on this subreddit. I've done a few trades in both r/Starcitizen_trades and r/pkmntcgtrades

https://www.reddit.com/r/Starcitizen_trades/comments/6qummw/psa_confirmed_trades_thread_august_2017/dmdh1yz/?context=3

https://www.reddit.com/r/pkmntcgreferences/comments/4yxrum/supremegunmans_reference_thread/

Any questions I'll try to get to after work.

Thanks

Definitely possible. Very easy if your monitor has HDMI.

First you need something like this.

Then you need an digital OTA antenna like this.

If you don't have HDMI you can get adapters to spilt to DVI or vga and a 3.5mm audio jack.

Plug them in and you are good to go.

Edit: just saw you have no speakers. Just about any set of powered pic speakers will do just fine. Probably need a 3.5 to rca cable to plug the speakers into the back of the tuner.

Like

4x amazon.com/dp/B019D048XC

And 4x amazon.com/dp/B00NMUE2P4

And 1x amazon.com/dp/B002HPNDDW should be good

And 4x parts-express.com/dayton-audio-b652-air-6-1-2-2-way-bookshelf-speaker-with-amt-tweeter-pair--300-651

And 1x amazon.com/dp/B00AF88BRG

I think that would sound pretty great, PC and all

We're talking like $120 for an active DP to DVI adapter which supports 144hz.

https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Dual-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=DP2DVID2&qid=1554150153&s=gateway&sr=8-1

You'd honestly be better off just buying a new monitor

I have one of these. It cost about 1k.

Squat/power rack: very versatile. you can tie up a sub in a number of different ways. mine has a pull up bar built in. it holds up very well to both lifting and kink use. you do NOT need a 1000 dollar power rack. this is the one i have: https://www.amazon.com/Atlas-Power-Squat-Deadlift-Bench/dp/B004UMM4QC/ref=sr_1_3?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1465612231&sr=1-3&keywords=power+rack

Bench: doubles as a bondage bench just fine

barbell/weights etc.: this is the bulk of the expense. I use these for powerlifting, not necessarily for kink.

deadlift platform: this is good for both deadlifts AND if you build your own its pretty cheap. with high quality wood it is fine for bare feet.

boxing bag: I have a heavy bag (100lbs) bolted into the ceiling. i reinforced the attic with 2x4 and some 4x4s. it will easily work for suspension or swing with the extra support.

For $6 you could buy this stove 15 times before buying a $100 MSR once. I'm pretty happy with it. Worth getting and trying for a weekend. if you don't like it it's a great stocking stuffer.

Ok, I think I got this.

-

1. So, I plug PC to Modi, how it is now.
   
2. Modi to Mixer via RCA male to male in input 1.
   
3. Monitor line out to Mixer via RCA to 3.5mm in input 2.
   
4. Magni to Mixer via RCA male to male in output.
   
5. Headphones into Magni, how it is now.
   
   So, it should look like this? My question is, will this play Switch and PS4 audio? They already play through monitor speakers, so is it as easy as putting 3.5mm to RCA in monitor to Mixer or do they each individually need to go to the Mixer?
   
   Also, would a ground loop like this work if plugged into the monitor and then have the 3.5mm to RCA plugged into this to eliminate buzzing noise?

The fact that it was possible to move the modem/router means that you probably have Coaxial cables run throughout the house. This is a very good thing. What you need are MoCA adapters, they basically let you run Ethernet over Coaxial cables. This is the one to get, also available in pairs. At the very least, you'll need one where the modem/router is currently located and another upstairs where it used to be located.

At the modem/router, you'll disconnect the Coaxial cable from the modem/router and connect it to the input of the 2-way splitter that comes with the MoCA adapter. Then connect the Coax In port of the adapter to one of the splitter's outputs, and the modem/router to the other. Finally, connect the MoCA adapter's Ethernet port to one of the router's LAN ports.

Upstairs, where the modem/router used to be, simply connect the existing Coaxial cable to the Coax In port of the MoCA adapter. Connect the adapter's Ethernet port to an access point, such as this one.

That's the basic setup, but you can take it much farther. You can add a MoCA adapter anywhere else you have a Coaxial cable connection. In any room where you have a Coaxial connection and stationary devices on Wi-Fi (PCs, game consoles, TVs etc) you should add a MoCA adapter and gigabit switch, then connect those devices to the switch. This gets them off Wi-Fi, so in addition to giving them perfectly reliable connections it speeds up the Wi-Fi for the devices (phones, tablets, laptops) that actually need it.

Oh, one last thing you need: a MoCA filter. This goes at your cable's point of entry to your house, before the first splitter, and prevents your MoCA network from going outside your house and potentially being accessible from other nearby houses.

First, to connect the amp to the PC, you'll need a 3.5mm to RCA adapter like this. Just plug the 3.5mm end into the output on your computer, and the RCA end into whichever input you like on the amp (they're all identical, just named so that you can remember what is what). Make sure to go white-to-white and red-to-red to get left and right correct.

Then you just need speaker wire from the amp outputs to each of your speakers. Just use either the A or the B outputs (they are the same). Again, make sure to go from the left output to the left speaker and the same for the right. Also, make sure that the negative terminal of the amp hooks up to the negative (black) terminal on the speakers, and the positive on the amp goes to the positive (red) on the speakers.

Finally, just use a reglar RCA cable to go from the "pre out" on the amp to the input of your subwoofer, again being sure to go red-to-red and white-to-white on both the amp and subwoofer ends.

like upofadown and Mr_You said you can get a flat antenna with an amplifier ..

This seems to be a popular model and it is amplified .. but this is the type they are suggesting and its probably a good bet.

https://www.amazon.com/1byone-Amplified-HDTV-Antenna-Detachable/dp/B00IF70T4M

MagicJack Express
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gJ10fS3gr3Y

http://www.magicjack.com/magicJackEXPRESS.html

Check online prices from known retailers you might get a deal $20

I have an older standard MagicJack but i have a $99 5 year plan and thats good to have if you can afford it because it locks you in with your phone number and your service

Also you can use the App from your phone and place calls over VOIP using your home number on the road and also receive your home calls when you're on the road but I have not tested receiving calls just placing them

>Hello, I've not been into hi-fi audio before but since I got hold of some decent pair of headphones I'm interested in beefing them up.

Is volume insufficient from your onboard audio?

>I've heard good things about the Atoms Amp but I'm not sure how to hook it up to my PC, and from what I can tell it does not come with any cables?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019D048XC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_M0kVCbKQ4CHN6

>My motherboard, Strix Z370-E I heard has decent enough onboard sound so I don't need an external dac but it apparently also has an onboard amp that I don't want running through. Would the Atoms bypass it or do I need to disable it somehow?

You don't need to disable your motherboard's op-amp. You'd need a dedicated DAC if you wanted to bypass your onboard audio completely.

N64 would be a good fit for you. It uses Composite(Red Yellow White cables). So you would need a HDMI converter. I recently bought a cheap one from Amazon to last me until my Frameister came in. For $14, it was very fast response time up scaling to 1080 on my flat TV.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L8GG6PW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Protip: Get an N64 Everdrive V3 to play all N64 games(even fan translations/hacked versions). You can still collect for the system but having all games on the console ready to go is nice if you don't want to hassle with changing carts.

A feature many people don't know is that you can get any normal headset to work when using a combo audio adapter as long as it has a 4 pole jack plug. Recommending this one
http://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-PCV-05-Combo-Adapter/dp/B00IM36VU0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457793178&sr=8-1&keywords=sennheiser+audio+adapter

Saved me some bucks.


FF14 has a 14 day trial period on PSN if that's your genre. Uncharted collection is great, Last of Us remaster is great, Alien Isolation and Until Dawn are a good buy.

What is the resolution of the monitor?

If it's greater than 1920 x 1200 (i.e. 2560 x 1440/1600), you likely need an active DP to dual-link DVI adapter, such as this one:

Startech DisplayPort to DVI Dual Link Active Adapter Converter

The active adapter will need to be plugged into a USB port to power it.

Otherwise, you will be fine with just a passive video cable such as this (much cheaper):

AmazonBasics DisplayPort to DVI Cable - 6 Feet

Can I ask why you couldn't just use a decent squat rack over a full on powercage?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004UMM4QC/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1456917795&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=squat+rack&dpPl=1&dpID=41s60Tve16L&ref=plSrch

Something like this for a home gym would be perfect. Looking at your design it looks like your gunning for something more commercial sized. But looking at your lifts at around 500lb, that would be overkill.

I'm not trying to shit on your idea mate, just trying to give you another route to go. And one that may very well work out cheaper in the long run.

ive bought 2 of them over the past year or so.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B46XUQU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0030AZ44O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

the one with the remote is the one i use now, both of them have auto sensing so if a device gets turned on, like a dvd player then it will switch it to. the one with the remote is a bit more useful as devices like the PS3, wont actually stop putting out an active HDMI signal. so the ps3 would have to be on port 1 and my xbox would have to be on port 2 so when i turn on the xbox it would auto switch to it, then once the signal is gone it would default back to port 1.

the one with the remote is nice because you dont have to worry about all that junk, and i never used the remote. i have a Dishnetwork universal remote and i learned the buttons for the input switching on that, the only downside is it doesn't seem very strong so pointing it directly at the little ir dongle is required.

This RCA switcher will take care of your RCA needs. I would then run the output from the RCA switcher into this [RCA to HDMI converter] (https://www.amazon.com/GANA-Composite-Converter-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B01L8GG6PW/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1510170964&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=rca+to+hdmi&psc=1).

Then maybe you'd want to consider picking up 2 of these 5x1 HDMI splitters. Just make sure you keep everything labeled so you know what's what. Hope that helps!

"Squat rack supports up to 300 lb" lmao that is final destination waiting to happen. OP just save up for a decent quality power rack. Something like this.

https://www.amazon.com/Atlas-Power-Squat-Deadlift-Bench/dp/B004UMM4QC/ref=sr_1_4?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1475095596&sr=1-4&keywords=power+rack

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UJ9LB6Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I love this grip, make sure you get the right one for the XL or NEW XL if you got that. Might help, more natural to a real controller.

Get a DAC. Fiio is known for the best portable DAC's. I don't know your price range, so here are some right now.

Fiio E6, $27

Fiio E11, $65

Fiio E17, $140

Fiio E18, $160

Hope this helps. If you can upgrade a phone, iPhone and HTC One has good sound cards from my experience.

I use a S4 with a FIIO E17 portable amp. It has USB so when I'm at work, I use it as a usb amp with linux. When I'm traveling I use the Headphone jack, and if you have an Iphone 5 you can use even use optical.

Really drives the headphones and gives some good sound. Pretty cheap around 110 bux, if you already have good headphones that is.

For headphones, using VModa M-100 headphones right now, good for bass.

I love camping. This is the coolest thing I can find, hands down. It's just so cheap, and with great reviews. Honestly, a lot of ultralight canister stoves have mixed reviews and are in the $30-120 range. The only part that's keeping me from getting it is that I can't get it delivered to Canada. C'est la vie on amazon.ca. Amazon.com gets all the cool stuff.

I'd have to go with Dead Space 3. I played the first one and loved how terrifying it could be, and I just bought the second one. I'll have a week or two with nothing to do coming up, so I'm thinking of marathoning them.

I can only speak to the DT-990 Pro.

It takes quite a bit to drive them to get the full soundstage, range, and overall experience. You will need an amp.

You said "mostly for home and bus/train so not a necessity but would be nice"
They wont be the greatest for use on the go, unless you have a travel amp - something like this https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Alpen-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0070UFMOW

I can play them through my iPhone 7, but the volume doesn't get as loud as I would like, and it's lacking the crisp audio that makes them unique in the first place.

So I have an old Fiio e17 (FiiO E17 Alpen Portable Headphone Amplifier USB DAC (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0070UFMOW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lhlOybJ8JTN88) that I bought back in 2012, and I just bought a Fiio x5 2nd gen.

My question is how to theoretically get the best sound out of it. Should I use line out to the 17, using the x5s dac and the 17s amp?

Or should I use the coax out from the x5 to use the 17s both dac and amp?

Or are the x5ii's dac and amp both better than the old 17?

I know it's not going to make a massive difference between the options, but I'm curious which would perform better with a variety of headphones. I haven't been keeping up on my specs.

Sennheiser HD598 - You do not need an amplifier or dac unless you hear static.

For the mic I use this inside this plugged into my PC's 3.5mm headphone in jack and it is the best mic i've ever had and amazing for the price, better than a blue yeti imo.

If you're on console things get a bit trickier, you'll want essentially the same headphones, a modmic, and a headphone-mic jack combiner such as this.

I specifically know about the MoCA protocol devices but I imagine DECA and HPNA works the same or in a similar way too. Below video shows someone connecting multiple DECA transceivers together to create a bridge.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1xuAiP_qcUs

Note, I connected 3 MI424WR devices together which all use the same MoCA protocol. The protocols are not compatible with each other and if you choose a specific device with a specific protocol, you better stick with that protocol on future devices or it won't work. I chose the MI424WR as I had one already with my FiOS install so I decided to buy 2 more on eBay for my TV's when I cut the cord. Keep in mind, you don't need FiOS to have these routers/transceivers work in your home. I do recommend getting a MoCA filter and connecting it to where your cable comes into your house/apartment.

https://www.amazon.com/Filter-MoCA-Cable-Coaxial-Networking/dp/B00DC8IEE6

There are multiple versions of the MoCA protocol. MoCA 1.0 has a speed of 100Mbps, 1.1 is 175 Mbps, 2.0 is 500 Mbps, and bonded 2.0 is 1Gbps. Devices are backwards compatible and will slow itself down if there are any lesser devices on the MoCA network. YMMV due to the type/length/condition of coax wiring ran through the house. My coax going through the house is older (I believe RG59). This along with other factors unknown to me, the speed my routers report is around 220 Mbps throughput. This isn't the magic number 500Mbps or 1Gbps but its still fast enough for me to stream my DirecTV Now and Youtube without any buffering issues simultaneously on multiple TVs which is good enough for me.

** More information on MoCA Standards
https://www.actiontec.com/wifihelp/wifibooster/difference-moca-1-0-1-1-2-0-bonded-2-0/

This is what worked for me. Prior to purchasing anything, do a little research and see what makes sense for your setup.

When I moved into my apartment 6 years ago, I didn't even bother with cable or an antenna, I just streamed everything. But last year around Super Bowl time I decided to get one. First I tried a 25 mile Amazon Basics one, which mostly worked but there were a few channels I wouldn't get without repositioning it. Then I got this. Works SO much better. I get all the basics, and although not everything is in 1080p, I don't have to move the antenna around at all. Then again, living at the bottom of Grimes Hill and having the antenna on the side of the apartment away from Manhattan probably has something to do with that. No picture but it's just sticky tape mounted to the wall. Setup was plugging everything in then walking around where I wanted to mount it to see where I would get the best reception.

Don't know if this is the right place to post.

• Looking to replace my wireless router Netgear WGR614v10 with something that has good range, is reliable and doesn't disconnect, and can handle 2 smart phones, a PS4, a Smart TV, a Chromebook, iPad, and 2 PCs. Really, I think anything will be an upgrade from this router that we have had for 10 years or so. I HAVE to use a powerline adapter in my room because I don't have any ethernet ports, but I experience drops frequently. Budget is no more than $100. How is the Nighthawk AC1750 or AC1900?
  
  
• If I want to connect my future GPU (probably a GTX 1070) to 3 monitors, how would I go about doing that? I see that some have 2 HDMI ports and 2 display ports but I don't know the first thing about display port. Should I look into a card with 3 HDMI ports?
  
  
• I want to connect my PS4 to one of the monitors, but the monitors only have one HDMI port (and a VGA and DVI port). Do I just need to buy a switch? I'm not against buying at least one new monitor that has multiple HDMi ports. If that's the case, can you recommend me a better 1080p 24 inch monitor?

Around $50 or less, I could stretch it a little if the benefits are worth it.

Honestly I bought these Sony MDR-XB500 headphones for around $70 before finding this sub so I'm uncertain if they're good enough to warrant buying an amp?

If not then I found this Sennheiser adapter that I wish I saw before buying my last one.

I don’t know if that monitor supports hdmi 2.0 but if it doesn’t here’s an adapter from DisplayPort to dvi that will support 144hz

https://www.amazon.co.uk/DisplayPort-Dual-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY/ref=asc_df_B00A493CNY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167151358503&hvpos=1o7&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11864583369199119158&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=2840&hvtargid=pla-314819641165&psc=1

EDIT: looks like the monitor supports 144hz over DisplayPort

EDIT2: read that you don’t have DisplayPort available on the monitor. The adapter should work, but is a little expensive

So, this is going to be somewhat of a silly setup, but you’re going to need an RCA splitter, an RCA to HDMI converter, and an HDMI splitter. I’ve used several hdmi splitters in the past and they’ve all been fairly solid, but I can’t vouch for the RCA splitters. Speaking from experience, the trickiest part is getting proper 5.1 audio if you have a surround sound system as most TVs only pass stereo. But, if you’re using the TV’s speakers you’ll be just fine anyway. Not sure what your budget is, but here’s something to get you started:


AuviPal 4-Way RCA Switcher 4 in 1 Out Composite Video L/R Audio AV Selector Box for DVD VCR VHS/AV Receiver/Game Consoles

and...

RCA to HDMI, GANA 1080P Mini RCA Composite CVBS AV to HDMI Video Audio Converter Adapter Supporting PAL/NTSC with USB Charge Cable for PC Laptop Xbox PS4 PS3 TV STB VHS VCR Camera DVD

Then as many male to male RCA cables as you need.

Finally the hdmi splitter:

HDMI Switch 4k,GANA Intelligent 3-Port HDMI Switcher,Splitter, Supports 4K, Full HD1080p, 3D with IR Remote

My mom has this one: http://www.amazon.com/dreamGEAR-Comfort-GRIP-Protection-your-Nintendo/dp/B00UJ9LB6Y

I checked it out one time when visiting her, and it is soft and super comfortable. I keep forgetting to get one for my regular 3DS XL so that hunting can be more enjoyable. I also recall that you can just put the bottom on so that you can still see the design on the 3DS if you have a limited edition one.

I haven't tried any others besides a Nerf case that my mom had that had bumps for your hands, but I really like this one. It feels almost like an actual controller.

This probably won't help you tonight unless you Prime Now it (or go to an actual Brick & Mortar electronics store... I know right) but if you get a product like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/1byone-Amplified-Detachable-Performance-Cable-Black/dp/B00IF70T4M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1518479823&sr=8-2&keywords=amazon+hd+antena

You can usually pick up free HDTV channels for the main network channels like ABC, CBS, NBC.

Oh man, I'm already in love with this thing. And to add to its beefiness I purchased the Dreamgear comfort grip which pretty much makes it feel like a console controller. It's a little pricy but damn it sure is dreamy. As long as you're not carrying it around in your pocket a lot I HIGHLY recommend it.
http://www.amazon.com/dreamGEAR-Comfort-GRIP-Protection-your-Nintendo/dp/B00UJ9LB6Y

You'll be better off to just buy a cheap bench and use it inside a power rack like this .. that'll open up the exercise possibilities also. (squats, chins, presses) By setting the bottom bars at the appropriate height, it's easier to bail out if you're using too much weight without a spotter.

I had a bench setup like what you're describing (though with wider supports), and I found it to just take up a lot of space for no reason. It's not conducive to most other exercises you might ever decide to do. Even for casual/supportive work for other activities, the rack is still really useful and doesn't take up much more floor space than your bench does.

Just so you know, > traditionally means "greater than" so i believe your Thread should read "Best PC upgrades < $50?"

But to answer your question, yes fans are a great option but you might also consider something like a reusable duster. Instead of using the canned air that we typically use it is a rechargeable duster than you can manually or electrically recharge. This one's right at your price point too!

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Here's three that are dedicated DACs and Amps. I own the e10 and it sounds great, and not just for its price.

Also, they didn't say that the dedicated amp would be able to drive high impedance headphones well. Keep in mind that they're targeting Beats headphones which have low impedance.

I can only get channel 7 and 13 consistently, and then all the random ones. The new TV will get channel 4 sometimes too. We're using this one and tried this one with the same results.

Honestly, so little football is aired locally anymore you're probably going to have to find other means to watch. Thursday night games were on Twitter last year, and Sunday Night games were free from (I think) NBC. A couple of people mentioned Sling, but PS Vue is rated better. It works decently well as long as you're not using the Fire Stick, and you can access directly through ESPN and some other apps.