Since you didn't tell us which exact MicroCenter location you've got, I am not able to maybe suggest a few more parts to get from them locally. Some parts also may be out of stock.

But I decided to go a bunch lower in terms of budget compared to /u/Lolmuhhhhhhh 's great suggestion.

CS:GO / LoL are not demanding games at all and even this system is "overkill" for it, but hey. It's a very good system.

---

I'll provide you with my standard list of videos to help you understand why I suggest these parts.

I'll also give you a couple of great guides to help you build the PC.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $179.99 @ Micro Center (combo)
Motherboard | MSI B150M Pro-VD Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $30.00 @ Micro Center (combo)
Memory | G.Skill Aegis 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $30.98 @ Newegg
Storage | A-Data Premier SP550 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $37.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $47.99 @ Micro Center
Video Card | Zotac GeForce GTX 960 4GB Video Card | $179.99 @ Amazon
Case | Silverstone PS08B (Black) MicroATX Mid Tower Case | $39.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | SeaSonic 520W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $65.98 @ B&H
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) | $85.99 @ Amazon
Monitor | Acer G237HLbi 60Hz 23.0" Monitor | $99.99 @ Micro Center
Cable| HDMI to HDMI (10 feet)| $6.50 @ Amazon
Keyboard | Adesso EasyTouch135 Wired Gaming Keyboard | $24.91 @ Amazon
Mouse | SteelSeries Rival 100 Wired Optical Mouse | $32.90 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes and discounts | No rebates!
| Total | $863.20
| Generated by Kiwiandapple |

---

####Learn about cool technology in only a couple minutes!

---

What is overclocking?: Here - 2:32 minutes.

What is the difference between i3, i5 & i7?: Here - 4:32 ◄ Important!
What is hyperthreading?: Here - 4:47
What is turbo boost?: Here - 4:05
CPU shopping guide: Here - 5:01 ◄ Important!
GPU shopping guide: Here - 4:11 ◄ Important!
How many cores do I need for gaming?: Here - 8:18 ◄ Important!
What is a motherboard?: Here - 4:46
Which motherboard is the best to buy?: Here - 10:07
DDR3 vs DDR4 speeds: Here - 8:01
What are benchmarks?: Here - 5:21
Pre-built vs building your own?: Here - 6:04
Optical vs laser mouse: Here - 2:10
SSD vs HDD: Here - 4:05
What is resolution?: Here - 5:22 ◄ Important!
Different panel types: Here - 2:29 ◄ Important!
Monitor refresh-rate: Here - 5:46
What is G-sync?: Here - 5:52
What is Shadowplay?: Here - 3:59
Case air pressure: Here - 5:21
Case fan orientation: Here - 3:42
What is a NAS?: Here - 5:06
What PSU to buy?: Here - 5:12 ◄ Important!
What does 80+ mean?: Here - 3:02

Likely that TechQuickie got even more video's that you can have a look at to get answers. It's a great YouTube channel for easy, quickly explained questions about PC tech.


---

####Guides

---

Now before you have a look at all these guides. The best guide in most cases will always be your MANUAL. Some manuals are garbage, but most of them are more than good enough to be able to help figure out most problems.

How to build an Intel 115x socket PC?
This is my personal favorite because it goes in depth, but still keeps the video relatively short.
It also got great camera work so you are able to follow all the steps very well.
I would suggest to install the aftermarket CPU cooler right away, then you don't have to clean the thermal paste.
I decided to skip the start of the video. The reason being that the video is posted on 17th of May 2013, he gives the rationale of his selected parts at the start. This is a very long time ago, so the parts are very old, so no need to hear this out. But building a PC is still pretty much the same. No drastic changes.
There are a lot of different build guides on the internet, but I really like this one. It's easy to follow.

How to install a 115x CPU?
Very simple and easy to follow guide again.
How to install thermal compound?
The temperature difference between the best and the "worst" thermal compound is a couple degrees Celsius. The temperature difference between applying thermal compound one way or an other.. is 0 degrees.
Be careful though! The only way that the temperature will rise is when you don't put enough. So it needs to have enough, but too much can cause problems as well. So don't go overkill either!
Thermal compound helps with the contact of the cooler + the CPU. They both have microscopically small gaps, which the thermal compound fills up to let the heat get too the heatsink.
How to install Windows 8(.1) or 10 from an USB drive?
You have to download "media creation tool" which is located at the bottom of the page (blue button). Run that program with a 4GB+ USB flash drive plugged into a PC. Then follow the simple steps and the program will make the USB drive bootable. After that all you have to do is build the PC and boot from that USB drive to install Windows.
How to set up your SSD & HDD?
This video is another older video, but it works pretty much the same in Win 8/10.
How to use Ninite?
This video explains it very well, as well as their recommendations. For security I advise to only get Avira (if you don't mind to get an add every day; if you do mind - just use Microsoft Defender) & Malwarebytes. If you want to pay for an anti-virus; Webroot! Light weight; very high detection rate.

#####Hope you like it and If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.

> I'm gonna need extensions.

I had good luck with 10 foot for each via Amazon.

• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > Overall, setup was 9/10, but I'm giving it 5/10 because of the issues I had.
  
  Similar here. I can see how it's supposed to be very smooth and quick, and I think re-establishing setup (if I were portable) would be very quick, but I had a number of issues that prolonged things.
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > This does require you to have a lit room
  
  This was disconcerting for me as well as preventing me from using VR sometimes since my VR area borders the den/living room and the breakfast nook and my wife often vetoed the turning up of all the lights (in the evenings).
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > Controller tracking 8/10
  
  I'd only give them 6/10. It's highly dependent on tolerance, body type, play style, and which game / experience you're using. My thoughts: https://www.reddit.com/r/WindowsMR/comments/7qlhde/samsung_odyssey_owners_are_you_happy/dsq5nh5/
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > You will notice some black smear
  
  I started noticing more of it as I dug back through my backlog of games and apps. The Quake II SteamVR environment, Allummette (the night scenes), and the large theater room in BigScreen are three places that had pretty awful black smear that I remember. In other places it was not noticeable though.
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > Colors are also very vibrant
  
  I agree, I thought the color pop was excellent and fun in the Odyssey, and simply made me want to try a lot of different things to see what they looked like.
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > I think it's a tad bigger at least for me
  
  Interesting, my buddy and I both thought his Vive with DAS and 6mm pad had the slight edge in terms of FOV, as well as amount of pupil swim, and there was something subtley not quite as impressive about either the binocular overlap or just the "closeness" of images in the Odyssey, but it was still very good and the great contrast and higher resolution made up for it.
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > The forehead pad and back pad are nice and comfortable with most of the weight resting on the forehead and off of the nose/cheek area.
  
  Eventually that forehead pad really started to dig into my forehead. I had a couple sessions that gave me real pain. Here was my solution: https://imgur.com/a/a9lqJ
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > The damn nose flaps.
  
  I totally agree! These would block about 70% of my nasal airflow! But there is an easy fix -- fold them back in behind the lenses. Works great, stays in place, and is easily reversible.
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > They are comfortable and easy to position.
  
  I found them a bit hard to get a good seal with. The DAS seems more articulatable which helps get a better on-ear seal which gives it the potential for a bit more perceived bass and therefore a bit more balanced frequency response. But neither holds up against my Audio-Technica ATH-M50s. I'm hopeful the Vive Pro audio addresses that a little more.
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > If you are looking for a portable VR experience with a laptop or like to travel and show others VR without having to set up lighthouses or cameras
  
  Yep, that is definitely the big benefit of the Odyssey. It can't be beat for that type of use case. It was kind of lost on me (no laptop, single permanent VR space at home), and I eventually decided due to the substandard controllers and controller tracking that it was worth more turned back into $486 so I returned it after 8 weeks due to Microsoft's very generous holiday return policy. I knew I'd miss it (certain aspects of it) and I do. If I were more into sims and had a driving setup it would have been a tougher call by far.
  
  I do hope they pull together a version with more cameras that can handle the controllers getting close to the cameras and operate in lower light. Best would be some way to give the controllers actual inside-out tracking of their own using their own cameras but that might require a prohibitively large amount of information sent over Bluetooth (BT 5.0?) to the CPU for the Machine Vision algorithm.

When I got this cable, it came wrapped in bacon, which I thought was pretty weird, but shrugged it off, slid off my recliner into my Rascal, scooted from the living room to the kitchenette, and started cooking my bacon-wrapping.

As the smell of delicious pork back filled my double-wide, I turned around to look again at the box the cable came in.

Could this be? Yes! It was a "3 wolves barking at the moon shirt" and even better, it fit me perfectly (I wear an XXXXL).

So I yumplugged (get it, yum because of the bacon?) the crappy coax and component cables from my TV, and slapped in the HDMI golden cable between the visio and the blu-ray.

I was completely unprepared for what would turn out to be the best day ever.

I dusted off my....oh who am I kidding...I was already watching my "Mama's Family: season 1" Blu Ray (disc one). The magic began...

Once Vicki Lawrence appeared on screen, she broke character AND the fourth wall. She, and the rest of the cast jumped OUT of my TV, and performed the episode on my living room floor!!!!

Screw 1080P! This is way better. I thought to myself that having a 12" real-life "mama's family" cast was awesome. I wondered what would happen if I had a bigger TV...

Or better yet, used this cable to plug it into that giant TV screen they have at Cowboys Stadium!

Anyway, I was in for a further treat when I was watching a Betty White episode. Oh MAN!!! Could life get better?

I spoke too soon...

After enjoying some drinks with the mini-cast of "Mama's family" (my own mama left me all her Hooch in the will), we threw on the TV. I turned it on to family guy, and the same thing happened.

I was able to punch that Jesus-hating Peter Griffin and that smart-assed dog in their sacrilegious faces. Mini-Betty White even did a pile driver to Stewie.

MacGyver came on, and we all were in 7th heaven (and when 7th Heaven came on, it was EVEN Better).

I could go on and on about my day, but i'm gonna stop here. BUY THIS CABLE.

It could easily be the best $2594.75 you ever spend...

http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Audio-Ethernet-Connection/product-reviews/B003CT2A6I/ref=dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1

I used to have one of these, a Belkin Nostromo N50. I thought it looked cool - it was the first thing like this, at least to my knowledge - and I've always liked unusual peripherals. What I mainly wanted was something that improved ergonomically on a standard keyboard and allowed me to have more controls to hand. I mainly like FPS so I had it set up for that, and on the whole, it worked simply OK. It was good for GTA:VC as well, and I particularly liked the throttle wheel. It also worked really well as a great winamp remote controller when not in games. However it was too limited by lack of buttons and the ergonomics just weren't quite right - button placement was a bit off, and the palm rest was too big. The palm rest was removable and I used it like that, but that just left a sort of cavity that didn't support my hand. It was a good idea that wasn't quite good enough.

Then this came out and I got that - better ergonomics, more buttons; sold, I thought. Yes and no; there were now enough buttons but some, particularly the big orange one and the thumb "space bar" one were too stiff/hard to press, and the throttle was replaced by an ordinary scroll wheel, which was basically redundant because I have one on my mouse. The ergonomics also weren't better, just differently wrong - button placement was better, but it was still too fat for the palm, and now the palm rest and heel rest were one piece so if I took it off, my palm was comfortable but the heel of my hand was now floating. The N52 saw less use and I eventually gave up on it for games and went back to just using the keyboard. I got a media control keyboard and it went into the parts bin.

Right from the start I got the impression that the things were mostly aimed at competitive RTS gamers, who are doing complex repetitive actions. The whole customisable macro thing is the real strength - in RTS it's great for e.g. sending build orders or micromanaging squad abilities via shortcut keys. I can also imagine it might be good for the likes of PvP in MMOs, or maybe message macros to co-ordinate raids or whatever. These aren't really my genres, so I think they were kind of wasted on me. Of course now MOBA is the new hotness and I imagine that's the focus for a lot of competition and thus for hardware makers. I don't play MOBA so I don't know enough about whether the capabilities these offer would actually help.

If you get this G13, I'd say this: actually try it in your hand first if possible, or if not buy from somewhere you can return the opened package to without fuss if you don't like the feel. The G13 looks like it was supposed to be ambidextrous at first but then they decided to slap the d-pad on the side, so the whole thing looks suspicious to me from an ergonomic angle, and if it's not more comfortable to use than a keyboard you might as well get one of the full keyboards with macro support and/or a sub-screen. The screen looks like something that might be very useful, but would depend entirely on game support to be usable - there's a list here and if your games aren't on it, that's basically a waste.

Belkin don't make the N50 or N52 any more but Razer seem to have bought the N52 design; it's something of a competitor.

Don't apologize! I used to do some sound work on the side in a past life, so this is fun :) I just hope you post a link to one of your shows once all this is done...

Mixers, like any analog equipment, have good models and bad models. Good models will sound great and bad models will sound not so great due to poor quality components and insufficient shielding. Some cheap models are decent, some just suck.

I picked those three because they're all in the Behringer Xenyx line (which you are already familiar with), because they have USB I/O, and because they are cost effective (you don't want to spend a lot when you're just starting out). Behringer is known for making low cost stuff that performs decently if not amazingly well. Certainly you can do better, but it's useful and cheap and not in the realm of 'garbage'.

If you want something a little better, try a Mackie 802VLZ4. Mackie is a better brand, good sound quality, good build quality too, which comes with a matching price tag of $200 for the 802. That would fit your needs nicely- 3x stereo channels, 2 mono channels, and an aux send. Not much room to grow (only one extra mono input) and no sliders, but it'll work well for a long time.
There's also the Mackie 1202VLZ4, for $270 you get 4x stereo channels, 4x mono channels, 2x aux sends. Still no sliders.

Neither of those are USB boards, which means you need another way to get audio into the computer. If your PC's sound card has a blue line-in jack you could use another dual mono 1/4" phono to stereo 3.5mm cable to send the board's output into the computer that way. Otherwise you could use a USB sound interface, most of the ones you'll find on reputable websites are decent, try a Behringer UCA222 for $30. You'll need a dual 1/4" phono to RCA cable to hook that up to the UCA222. If you want to improve audio quality, this is a decent place to do it; most computer onboard sound cards are pretty crappy so any decent USB interface (including the UCA222) or a dedicated quality PCI sound card will be better.

------

If it were me- and keep in mind this reflects my mindset- I wouldn't worry about the tech stuff much now, because attracting an audience and keeping them is harder than making sound work. Going from decent sound to great sound won't do a huge amount for the success of my channel, especially when starting out.
IMHO, the biggest challenge to starting a stream channel is building the audience. I can control the sound, and I can throw money at quality hardware, but I can't control whether people will watch my show or not. And I don't know if the channel is going to be in any way successful, or if I'm going to do 20 shows and get 3 viewers and then decide to spend my time on something else.

So if it were me, I'd get that cheap 4-way 3.5mm switcher and for the moment make it work with the Q802USB mixer I already have. Or I'd do an ugly ghettosplice, just use Y-splitters to plug the Xbox and PS4 into the same stereo channel, and only turn on one at a time.

This wouldn't sound as good as a Mackie setup, but it would work and it'd be cheap.

Then I'd start streaming and focus on building an audience and getting subscribers and whatnot.

Then once I'd been streaming for a while, I'd have a better idea of what kind of show I'm putting on and thus what kind of capability I want to have.

For example, I might want some kind of simple background music that I can easily fade in and out without pausing the game. I might have guests that call in via Skype or a phone, and want to adjust their volume separately. I might have some kind of dual mashup stream where I host myself and my buddy playing on the same team. Depending on what people like watching me play, I might end up only streaming one or two games (thus not needing both consoles). etc etc. Or the whole thing might totally flop and I might get bored of it, in which case I don't want to have wasted $500 on mixers and adapters and cables that I'll never use again.

You'll only know the answer to these questions after you've been at it a while. So my suggestion is get from where you are now (mucking about with audio cables) to a published stream as efficiently and cheaply as you can, especially since you already have a mixer, and then improve your setup as your channel grows.

Now you already have the most important component- a decent microphone. All the mixers in the world won't help if you are feeding them shitty audio from a shitty mic. The one thing I would tell any streamer is spend $40 on a decent microphone (that's NOT part of a headset), but you're already there. The rest is details.

When you record with MIDI, you don't actually record any sound at all, you record which keys you press and when you press the sustain pedal and so on. All your actions, but no sound.


If you want to get the sound from the piano, you can use a cable from the headphone output on the piano, to the microphone input in your computer with a standard 3.5mm jack (unless you have a 1/4 inch in your piano, in which case you need the little transformer).

You will need a cable like this, but you'll most likely have one somewhere, it's a very standard cable.

Now you can just use any audio recording software you want. Audacity was mentioned, which could easily do it. I believe Windows has a built in sound recording feature, which could do it as well.


If you want to get a REALLY good sound, you should still use the MIDI format, but you'd have to get a good piano sound too. Here's a collection of good sounds. It's quite expensive though. You can edit your track with software too, I don't know if Audacity can do that, it might, but I use something called Reaper. If you made a missplay or something went wrong, you can remove a note, add notes, change velocity, everything. It's quite good and not that difficult at all. With the piano sound software (Komplete) you can use it in real-time too, to make your piano sound like the grandest of all the grand pianos, for an amazing sound, though I'd suggest you go for Synthogy then which, to me at least, has the superior sound.

Whelp, I went out on a tangent here, good luck OP!

EDIT: How do you like your piano? I have the Privia 850 here next to me, just waiting for christmas to set it up.

Receiver: Denon X3300 for $600 (huge sale, actually cheaper than getting a refurb model), it does everything you would likely want.

Subwoofer: Get a pretty good one for now, then spend big (sell this one or go dual) once you move. This one is $605 or this one for $550, unless you want to plug the ports to experience sealed ones in a while, the $550 one may be better actually. There is such a thing as too big for a room, not only will a huge monstrusity like the $1000 Rythmik FVX15 will actually sound bad in that small of a room (sound waves bouncing all other the place, that not even room treatment can really help, as the distance is too close) and the soundwaves will travel to neighbors much more easily.

So, let’s call that $1500 total just to account for miscellaneous stuff like speaker wire, banana plugs, subwoofer cable, any applicable tax for any component here, etc.

So, that leaves $2000 for a 2 towers and 1 center.


There are a lot of options (sorted by price, not that that's an indicator of quality):

____

• RBH/Emptek has their clearance sale, you can spend a lot less (30% off) and get some awesome sounding speakers if you don’t mind minor cosmetic imperfections. Here are the towers and center, use the bundle coupon for $70 off, this will total $661 vs the ~$1150 new price tag (can’t buy new, out of stock, maybe discontinued). They get great reviews. I got the bookshkeves for my computer setup, they are great, here are pics of the cosmetic imperfections of mine.
  
  ____
  
  
• HTD Level Three towers and center, if you get the more expensive finish, it will total around $1165. I have their old gen bookshkeves and center (no ribbon tweeter or waveguide, got them for cheap off Craigslist), they are fantastic.
  
  ____
  
• JBL Studio 580’s (on sale) and 235C, these will be decently more music focused. Total cost ~$1180.
  
  ____
  
  
• HSU CCB-8 3.0/LCR bookshelves, up to $1400 for the more expensive finish. If you want the HSU sub, you can save a bit by using their bundles (more expensive finish not available via this method.
  
  ____
  
• Wharfedale Diamond 250 and 220C for $1600 (4 color options), may be more music focused.
  
  ____
  
  
• KEF R100 bookshkeves (on sale) and R200C. Total cost ~$1800. If you don't mind white finish and refurb, they can be had for $1600, link to bookshelves and center.
  
  ____
  
  
• KEF Q900 new (on sale) with refurb Q600C (if you want the walnut finish, it'll be $50 more, no charge for tower finish). total cost ~$1800-$1850
  
  ___
  
  
• B&W 600 684 S2 and HTM61 S2 for $1900, these are heavily music focused, not that dynamic for movies.
  
  ____
  
  
• KEF LS50 3.0/LCR bookshelves, the L/R will be refurb with a new center, they are available in a white/blue finish as well, for the same price, link to refurb white/blue L/R (don't come with a free pair of headphones like the black/orange ones). Total cost ~$2000.
  
  ____
  
  So, you got some debating to do.
  
  Keep in mind some of these may have tax added on based on where you live and which company I linked to (for instance, I live in Florida, so no tax if I get the HTD's from them as they are in Texas (if I was in Texas them there would be tax), the B&W's are only via BestBuy so there will be tax. That's why I accounted for it a bit at the start.
  
  If you need any help about optimally setting up your speakers and sub in terms of placement, let me know.

To be honest, not too sure what the UFO test is. I just went back and read your post. The model number is S2719DGF. The 155 is overclocked through OSD, works well with no issues, but it comes out of box 144. If you are talking about motion blur it has a super high rating on RTINGS, a 9.9. Its a beautiful monitor! I am rather busy with work and school, so I have played maybe about 20 hours or so of games since I bought it, but have been lazy and have not calibrated it or anything too time consuming. $319 is a steal, I just had them price adjust mine, since I bought it two weeks ago for $380 from BB. It retails anywhere from $300s to mid $400s. $319 is the lowest I've seen it.

I honestly love it! I have a RTX2060, and I normally do not get near the 155hz, normally like 100 to 120fps, but crystal clear image, decent colors (amazing post-calibration according to the internet), and great design. I will mention that BB and other retailers are claiming that it has a 8,000,000:1 contrast ratio, but that is dynamic, so not a true number. Freesync works great with it, now that Nvidia released drivers. Other than that, well worth buy if you are in the market for a monitor.

Link for Best Buy:

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/dell-s2719dgf-27-led-qhd-freesync-monitor-black/6293714.p?skuId=6293714

​

Link for RTINGS (Read this before you buy or if on the fence):

https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/dell/s2719dgf

​

Link for Display Port Cable since it does not come with one (I got this one and it works wonderfully):

https://www.amazon.com/ivanky-DisplayPort-Braided-Display-Compatible/dp/B078HVDMW2/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=displayport+cable&qid=1555286414&s=electronics&sr=1-2-spons&psc=1

> Looking for the best sound $400 can buy, for music.

If you want the best sound money can buy, you're not looking for 2.1. I can't stress this enough - even if you DIY it, getting a good sub is easily going to cost $400 alone. And even if you do stretch your budget, to accomodate for a sub, a 2.0 system will sound more coherent, and be far easier to live with. Plus, with good speakers, you are not really going to miss a sub.

In your price bracket, and with active speakers as a requirement, you are effectively looking at studio monitors.

I am curious about your intended use - is it primarily when seated in front of a computer?

First Emotiva AirMotiv 4 - Review here - you will need stands for these, bringing the total up to about $400 - stands can either be DIY-ed from a bit of PVC pipe and a few pieces of wood in about an afternoon for about $40, or bought from anything between $50-80.

What kind of stands you will need, and their height will vary with the answer to the question above about intended use. If you primarily intend to use it in front of a computer, then a pair of stands placed on the desk (10-12 in), or taller floor stands (40-45 in) is the correct height. If you plan on enjoying music from the couch, then floor stands of 28-32 inches are the right option. Assuming what you need is for near-field office desk use, here is a decent pair of stands (And are the same stands as in my next item

KRK Rokit RP6 - bundle with stands. If you hang around any music or producer forum, many authors will have these as their go-to budget recommendation, and they are well-liked across the board.

If you don't already have it, both proposals need a 2xRCA to 2x1/4 TS cable, like this

For reference, I use neither of my two recommendations as my near-field budget monitors - the M-Audio BX5 D2 are what I use, and if you would rather get away with less than $400, they are pretty terrific. Also, differing prices in Norway, and in the case of the Emotivas, prohibitive shipping costs, makes the value propositions somewhat different - a kit with the KRK's and floor stands are $650 here, while I got my BX-5's for $300. With this being my secondary system, I'm personally not willing to spend much more than I did, until I feel I can splurge and get myself a pair of Genelec 8040A.

Final note: Yes, these are all classified as "studio monitors", and there is an ages-old misconception that studio monitors aren't good for casual listening. As noted, that is a misconception - studio monitors work exceptionally well, even for casual listening.

So you have four corners on the recessed ceiling (higher up), and four corners on the lower ceiling. I would almost prefer to put the cameras in the corners of the lower ceiling, because it would give a more straight-on view of the player/controllers. Each camera has a narrower viewing cone at extreme close proximity. The further from the main playspace they are, the more that cone has a chance to "spread out" and cover the actual playspace. In this case, you would draw your playspace with at least (2 ft) or (0.6 m) distance from each of the four walls, so people don't bash their knuckles at the borders.

However, you might not want your cameras to be further than (12 ft) or (3.6 m) apart from each other (for best tracking quality). I don't have a big enough room to run into this limit, so you may be fine with further spaced out cameras. If the lower ceiling corners are further apart than (12 ft) or (3.6 m), then you may want to put them in the recessed ceiling anyways. You can always ignore the Oculus Rift setup's warnings about camera spacing, by the way. In fact, with larger playspaces, the Oculus setup wizard will always complain. Don't worry about it.

Also, you might want to consider using this USB card. It can handle the throughput of all four cameras in USB 3.0 mode, if desired. You can downgrade any camera to USB 2.0 by simply running a USB 2.0 cable to that camera instead of 3.0. A passive USB 2.0 cable is fine for short runs, but consider an active USB 2.0 cable (like the one that comes in the box of an extra Rift camera) for longer runs. You should put your Rift headset in one of the motherboard's USB 3.0 ports (USB 2.0 might actually be fine), and then put all four cameras (you might only need three cameras) in the USB extension card.

You can search this subreddit for discussions on whether you want/need to have the cameras/headset on 3.0 or 2.0. I prefer to run everything at USB 3.0, but it may not be necessary.

For USB 3.0 cable runs that are less than 10 feet (say, those corners nearest to your computer tower), use these passive USB 3.0 cables. You're also going to want a passive USB 3.0 extension for your Rift headset.

For USB 3.0 cable runs that are more than 10 feet away, you should use an active USB 3.0 cable. This is necessary for cameras that are further away from your tower. Note that the cable I linked has an optional barrel port for a 12V power supply. You only need to power these cables if you're daisy-chaining two or more of them in a row (for runs longer than (33 ft) or (10 m)).

These CAT6 round cable clips should work well for cable routing, especially for the slightly thicker active USB 3.0 cables. These general-purpose adhesive cable clips work fine for runs of the thinner, passive USB cables, but you may have issues with the adhesive depending on your wall.

You'll want this HDMI extension cable for your Rift headset, to make use of the extra space. I've had a good experience with bunching the HDMI and USB Rift headset extensions together by using these lightweight Velcro ties. I have about a (10 ft) or (3 m) square playspace, so you may encounter different problems than me if your playspace is larger. I only have three cameras, and it works fine. Good luck in your setup, I'm sure whatever you do will work great!

I'm like you, OP. I also am philosophically opposed to spending more on audio than on screen. That being said, good speakers do last for a very long time: if new formats ever come out, you can always upgrade the receiver and you can keep your speakers forever.

I did a lot of searching and I ended up with a good compromise that allowed me to have a LG OLED 65 together with a set of solid speakers.

​

Here's what you need to know:

​

- The latest OLED TVs are pretty much the same as last year's. LG B7, C7, B8 or C8 are all the same TV pretty much. Get the cheapest you can find. I bought mine on greentoe.com. I offered 1900$ for a 65' B7 this past April and my offer got accepted. You can even try to price match it with your credit card, I think (search in this sub). This may save you a few dollars more. Bottom line is: you should be able to snatch a 65 OLED for ~1500-1900.

- You can order a refurbished sub for a fraction of the price. I have the Denon X1400H that u/robotdinofight recommended, and I also bought it from accessories4less.

- Atmos speakers are mostly marketing BS. There isn't much sound that comes from above you in movies. That Denon is compatible anyway, so you can always add them later. Before you do that, just go watch a movie in Atmos at a theater.

- Sorround speakers are not that important either. Your dialogue is coming from the center speaker, and music etc will be on the front channels, with just some in your sorrounds more for ambiance than anything else. You can go with *very cheap* speakers here. Source: Zeos's guide here. I ended up buying the cheapest speakers Zeos recommended: Micca Covo-s for 40$ the pair (a factor in my decision was also that I had the speaker stands I was using for the cheap Logitech 5.1 PC system I had. Speaker stands are expensive too so factor in that cost too). These speakers are honestly not great: I tried using a pair of ELAC B6 and yes, sorround was much better. But I like HDR and perfect blacks way more than better sorround, so I ended up returning the ELACs and kept the Miccas as my rear. Maybe I'll upgrade some other time.

- If you are like me and have neighbors and a wife who's not into loud explosion, you really don't need a crazy sub. I have the Elac S10 and that's *more* than enough for us, my wife wants me to keep it down. Get a cheap one! Mine was only about 100$. See Zeos's guide here: https://www.reddit.com/comments/5b1u99

- Invest in good fronts. I have the ELAC B6.2 and while I don't think they sound like the crazy expensive speakers that some friends have, they sound *much* better than a soundbar/integrated TV sound and are great for movies! Important: whatever you buy, you must buy a center channel that matches the left/right speakers. I have the ELAC Debut 2.0 C6.2 center, with the ELAC Debut 2.0 B6.2 Bookshelf Speakers as my L/R channels.

- Buy cheap speaker wire and strip it yourself!! I'm so bad with practical stuff that I was a bit intimidated by it, but honestly it's ridiculously simple. The guide that I liked before has a section on wires, read it. The sub has its own cable, remember to buy it (I bought the Amazon one).

- Buy cheap HDMI cables from AmazonBasics.

- I have these stands for my fronts: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PYV7LQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Compared to u/robotdinofight's guide, you lose some sound quality, but only where it matters least and you should save some 700$, enough money to go from the TCL to a LG OLED. Hope it helped!

I'd strongly recommend against that AV2HDMI unit simply because you really want to step past composite video in your video signal game whenever possible. Composite video is prone to a few issues (rainbow artefacts due to poor comb filters, smearing) that hampers video quality simply from the way the signal works (color and grayscale information being sent through the same cable and needs to be sorted out by the receiving device).

For systems that can do component, I've seen this being recommended:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VJ9RP6

It reportedly doesn't scale the video signal or alter it in any meaningful way, only converts it to digital. I have not however used it myself.

You can get component cables for the PS2, Xbox and also technically for the Gamecube, except that cable is exceedingly rare and expensive. Instead I'd recommend looking at an early generation Wii with Gamecube support. For the Wii there is plenty of choice for component cables, as well as different hdmi adapters.

The SNES can do RGB without modding, however the model and revision of the unit will affect quality somewhat. Check this video if interested:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1k2HVB9S8CA&index=4&list=PLTNBVisVMbSRlu45wgWo332Ke64e1o05m

For the NES, in it's stock form composite is the best you're gonna get (unless you get a fancy Japan import that does s-video). If you're interested in modding, there are however both RGB and HDMI mods out now:
http://retrorgb.com/nesrgb.html

If you want to get one box that "does it all", the XRGB Mini/Framemeister is probably your best bet, although it is some money and not perfect.
http://retrogaming.hazard-city.de/framemeister.html

In closing, I'd recommend checking out this site:
http://retrogaming.hazard-city.de/
as well as checking out the videos on this channel to learn more:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLTNBVisVMbSRW6GIFybpOJbjU65T8eFVM
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLTNBVisVMbSRlu45wgWo332Ke64e1o05m

I used to dabble a bit with this, playing my retro systems on an HD TV, in the end I went back to a CRT TV because of easy of use.

Edit:
Depending on what TV you have, one possible solution would simply be to connect your systems to the TV and then route the audio from the TV to the receiver. My old Sony LCD TV turned out to have a great comb filter (although a bit soft picture).

I see this question asked a lot and I have a very cost-effective solution that I notice a lot of people aren't aware of. I was thinking of doing a video guide of it though there are similar methods/walkthroughs on youtube.

DISCLAIMER: This may not be the best method for your specific setup. My method is not the neatest/simplest of setups, but it is cheap. Also, with this setup, your party members' voices will be recorded/streamed with or without their permission, so you should probably inform your party members before you start recording/streaming.

This is my setup for my Xbox One (should also work with PS4, though you may need different cables because IIRC Xbox One uses a proprietary 3.5mm socket):

Things you'll need:

1x 3.5mm splitter that splits mic and speaker.
This is the one I use (may need a specific one for PS4): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CTIOY9Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2x 3.5mm to 3.5mm audio cables
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LTEUDO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1x PC-compatible headset and microphone, preferably USB. (I use Astros A50)

STEPS:

1. Plug the 3.5mm splitter into your controller.
   
   
2. Plug 1 3.5mm cable into the speaker that was split from your controller and plug the other end of that cable into your microphone input on your PC.
   The speaker audio coming from your controller is all the sounds you would hear if you had a headset plugged into your controller. What we're doing here is routing that sound into your PC's microphone input so your PC reads it as an audio input device.
   
   
3. Plug 1 3.5mm cable into the mic that was split from your controller and plug the other end of that cable into the speaker output on your PC.
   The mic split from your controller is the microphone input that you would normally use to speak to your party if you had a headset plugged into your controller. What we're doing here is making it so that sound coming out of your PC is now being routed to the controller and therefore to the party/game chat.
   
   
4. Plug your PC-compatible headset/mic into your PC.
   
   
5. Right-click the volume icon on your PC and click on Recording Devices.
   
   
6. Right-click the headset mic you plugged in during Step 4 and set it as Default Device and Default Communications Device, then Right-Click it again and click on Properties. Now click the Listen tab. Click the dropdown menu that says "Playback through this device:" and choose the speaker output that goes to your controller (see Step 2). Check the box that says "Listen to this device" and hit OK. Now any audio that is picked up from the mic on your PC headset will get forwarded to your controller.
   
   
7. While still in the Recording tab of your Sound window, right-click the microphone input that came from your controller (see Step 3). Click the Listen tab and under the dropdown menu chose your PC headset as the "Playback through this device:". Check the "Listen to this device" box and hit OK. Now all the sound coming out of your controller (ie party chat) will get forwarded through your PC's mic input and to your headset's speaker. NOTE: You may also have to change the volume of this under the Levels tab.
   
   And that's pretty much it. Phew. You will need to tweak some things based on the PC mic/headset you have.
   
   Things I recommend using with this setup:
   
   Adobe Audition to add filters to your mic for improved audio quality on your mic (you'll need VAC for this).

Sorry I missed you earlier, here's what I used to get the tower discretely away in the corner and set up the triple monitor setup:

• 10' 3.5mm to RCA cable (your extension cord may need to vary depending on what you use for speakers)
  
  
• 4x usb M/F extension cord 10' (These are for plugging in my keyboard, mouse, phone connection, and a spare for usb sticks without having to plug into the tower)
  
  
• 3x hdmi cable 10' (for plugging in the monitors, be sure to check your connection options as your graphics card / cards may need a different connection)
  
  
• Vivo Triple Monitor Mount ( This is the trickiest part. For me to mount 3 heavy 27" BenQ monitors, this was a relatively inexpensive option. The stand is well built, and looks and moves well, but the weight of the monitors is difficult to mount without any sagging. Also, 27" is the absolute max size this mount will work for, and even then my viewing angles are a bit lacking. I would recommend Locktek's EXCELLENT mounts for neutralizing this issue, but they are vastly more expensive. Weight wont be an issue though. For me, the issue was not a big deal so I didn't splurge on a pricier mount.
  
  
• Cable management sleeve (so that you can tuck away all those cords neatly)
  
  After that, you can have all peripherals at your fingertips and tuck the tower away into a corner. If your space is carpeted (and even if its not), be sure to keep the tower slightly elevated off the ground to allow for good air circulation.
  
  Definitely not dogma but that's what I've been using, and it works well thus far. Be sure not to skimp on the length of your cords, when your hiding it it will need to snake around a bit under the desk.
  
  Hope that helps!
  
  

Another person asked a similar question a couple weeks ago. Here's the response I have him, which will likely help you:

Yes, you can use a computer monitor as a display for your PS3 (or nearly any video game console for that matter). There are multiple ways to set this up; I'm going to provide you with what I think is the easiest and what will give you the highest quality based on your setup. Note that there are other ways to do this, but I guarantee these instructions are what you are looking for.

-----

What you need you need to have:

• A computer monitor that supports DVI. Check to ensure your monitor has this port.
  
• An HDMI to DVI cable -OR- an HDMI cable + an HDMI to DVI adapter.
  
• A stereo audio (RGB) female to 3.5mm (headphone style) female adapter.
  
• A standard issue PS3 composite audio/video cable.
  
  If you don't have these cables, you can order them online or get them from Best Buy or Radio Shack (but they will be much cheaper online).
  
  Note: the audio adapter I mentioned above only supports traditional, analog speakers. In other words, make sure your speakers plug in using this type of connector.
  
  The HDMI to DVI goes from the PS3 into your monitor. The PS3 composite cables also get plugged into your PS3, and attach the audio adapter onto the red and white plugs on the PS3 composite cable (the yellow plug will just hang loose). Now, plug the headphone-style adapter into your speakers.
  
  On the PS3, just ensure that under Audio Settings, that "Multi Channel Output" is turned on.
  
  And that should do it. Hope this helps!
  

Sure did! works great, very east to use. Been switching the stack between the PS4 optical and the micro usb connector (need a longer cable) on my MacBook pro. Noticeable difference when I'm just using the aux on my mac.

Also @jayfurious

> I remember having to do this setting everytime I unplugged and replugged in the splitter from the dualshock. But I don't have a PS4 anymore, so not sure if the annoyance is still there or they fixed it.

It's still there tolerable though.

Previous setup I was using the Steel Series Arctis 7 for well over a year. At first I was unimpressed following the common theme from a-lot of HD650/HD6XX reviews. Been using them alot recently and now I really can tell the difference in sound signature now. Will try the Arctis 7s in a week or so here to see how much of a difference I notice. I use them for (order from most to least) gaming where I'm still getting used to the soundstage for FPS (ambient/soundtracks in single player game , movies/TV which gave me a-lot more appreciation for them, hearing every detail, and last but certainly not least music; where I find these shine the most IMO LOOOOVED my first listen to Yes - Roundabout. Huge difference when going through that stack rather than my Macbooks aux.

I also have to highly commend Roppmaster's RCA cable recommendation

>RCA cables: https://www.amazon.com/0-5-Foot-RCA-Cable-Pair/dp/B01ALMYOHQ/.

The extension cables were a must for me and a great purchase.

These work so much better than the Monoprice RCA's I originally opted for they were so inflexible they were actually lifting the backside of my Modi 3 into the air. These RCA's are the perfect flexibility for the stack setup. Will post a pic soon.

I'm using these....

HMDI

USB

Then for the sake of asthetics, I wrapped them both in this to keep the wires together when routing.

10 foot for each, which has worked for me, but 15 might give a bit more flexibility depending on the location of your PC. But part of the benefit of the hanging cables is that as long as your cable can reach diagonally to the opposite corner of your space, (front to back, left to right, and top to bottom. Diagonally in 3 dimensions), then it should be able to reach anywhere in your space. The stock Rift cable can reach diagonally across my space, and my extension cables are just getting my cable to its "start" position in the corner.

Keep in mind these cables don't have a ton of strength, so I recommend getting a hefty command strip hook to statically fix your wire near the ceiling to take a lot of the weight, then the hook cables can split the weight from there as it droops towards your head naturally.

This turned into a bit of a novel but I hope my "lessons learned" are helpful haha

I wanted to give you some links about the cables I recommended as they got "bashed" a bit here which is fine if it's true but I researched them pretty well when I bought them so I went back to take a second look to see if I messed up. I don't believe I did and here's why. Below is a link to Amazon and my specific cables with over 2,900 reviews and a 4.8 out of 5 overall rating. Out of almost 3,000 people who bought them the rating was that high. The other cables suggested to you I also clicked on to maybe get them but I shop on Amazon mostly not vendor specific websites so I can check pricing and look for reviews. There are 0 reviews on the other cable in 50 ft. on Amazon and in AVS forums there is a forum discussing subwoofer specific cable that mentions issues with using 22 awg wire on a long subwoofer run let alone 24 awg . Not trying to tell you to get the cables I linked you to because in the end it doesn't affect me one way or another. Just telling you to look a little deeper before you buy one or the other. "(Good) information is power"

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003FVYXY0#Ask

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GOBCV0G/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1453978470&sr=8-5&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=knukonceptz+subwoofer+cable

Also a link to AVS forums.com with the specific quote about the guage wire and the run

The only thing that matters is the resistance of the cable and how much voltage drop (signal attenuation) occurs over the length of run from the equipment to the sub (or other speakers). In other words, don't use 22AWG wire for 30ft runs.

Finally a link to this forum and the discussion.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-subwoofers-bass-transducers/1412557-difference-subwoofer-cables-brand-vs-brand-model-vs-model.html

I would write more about it, but I think Roger Russel has written it quite well: http://www.roger-russell.com/wire/wire.htm He used to work at McIntosh Lab many years ago.

For comparison sake these are one of the highest rated subwoofer cables on the market in a 50 foot run ( blue jeans). See which one is the biggest seller below it. Just saying.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005979KVY/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?qid=1453979800&sr=8-8&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=blue+jeans+subwoofer+cable

Monoprice also has a 97% oxygen free copper 50 ft. sub cable that's rated at 18 awg. Much better guage for that long of a run and they are highly touted for it's performance on A.V. forums as well. Another option to choose from and a great value for the money.

http://www.monoprice.com/mobile/product/details/2684?maincategoryid=102&categoryid=10236&subcategoryid=1023603&cpncd=

Correct, standard RCA cable to connect everything. From what I'm reading on the Tapco's, they have a stereo RCA input. Turntable > ART DJ Pre II > monitors.

As LionsMouth pointed out below (and I stupidly missed) the Tannoys are active monitors as well. You could test out which pair you like best and go with those. I didn't find a manual in my quick google search, but from what I can see, the Tannoy's use a combo 1/4"-phone/XLR cable connection. If it is a 1/4" cable, you will need to find a pair of mono-RCA-to-mono-1/4" cable to connect from the DJ Pre II to the back of the Tannoys.

The other thing you will really, really want is some sort of line attenuator to control the volume. It looks like neither the Tannoy or Tapco have a volume control built into them. You could use the gain trim on the DJ Pre II, but that would be far less than ideal.

One other thing that would be very handy would be a simple AV switch box. This would allow you to connect a MP3 player or other audio source along with your turntable.

Outside of the turntable (not knocking you or it -- we all got to start somewhere) the other gear you have is really good quality stuff. Like I said the MX-2 is worth holding onto for the future if you get into this hobby. Otherwise, you could sell it for a decent penny.

Links for reference:

RCA to 1/4" adapter cable

RCA to 1/4" adapter

Line Level Attenuator

AV Switchbox

The RCA-to-1/4" cable or adapters can probably be found at any store that sells music equipment. Line level attenuator might need to be ordered. AV switchboxes are generally everywhere and should be at any big box or online retailer.

I use a Logitech G5 Laser Gaming Mouse like this one here

I found it a year or so ago at Walmart for clearance price of $40. It has the weights you can add to it underneath, and all the buttons are programmable if you so choose.

I don't know if it's just the mouse, or me just being used to it, but I love that damn thing, it's crazy precise and has a good weight to it. Adjustable weight, that is.

Pick one up if you can pay less than the $189.99 it's going for on Amazon. There's a newer model that has another button by the thumb, but any of these are great for FPS gaming.

I also rock a Nostromo N52 programmable keypad. Can't give that thing enough props. Been using it and its predecessors since the Counter Strike 1.6 days. Especially great for games where you can't change the keys (like Transformers.) PM me if you're curious about it, but if you do pick one up, try to find an N52 over the N52TE. The older N52 used different and superior programming software, where the hardware on the N52TE is better. Folks have done a full swap too.

Just realized your username, but in general, there are lot of people that think the LGP does something "magical". There are a lot of different ways to improve lag. It just comes down to breaking down all the processes.

• Analog to Digital Conversion
  
  >You can use an external ADC like an LGP, Shuttle, or others (1, 2). Many times, the internal ADC built into the LCD screen is really poor. This the big thing about using the Wii U to play Smash, because there is no analog involved when you use HDMI.
  
  
• Image Scaling
  
  >There are external scalers like XRGB's Framemeister, but it probably best to just let your display upscale your image. There are also devices (1, 2) that upscale and do the ADC together.
  
  
• Post Processing
  
  >This is strictly limited to setting your LCD screen to Game Mode and disabling all special video effects (120hz motion, image filtering, dynamic contrast, etc).
  
  A lot of people are using the LGP just because their gaming monitor doesn't have component input. What's interesting is, technically, any gaming LCD monitor with VGA already has an internal ADC chip. The simplest (and by that logic, the cheapest) solution for these types of monitors is to get a Component (YPbPr) to VGA (RGBHV) adapter and let the gaming monitor do the ADC.
  
  LGP is just the popular solution, but it's definitely overkill if we want to move to LCD gaming.

Despite the fact that both speakers seem to be a similar price, the Inclines will considerably cheaper and closer to your budget once you account for cables and a subwoofer (provided you actually need one).

Regardless of what you buy, I suggest first trying the speakers without a subwoofer to hear whether you actually miss the last bit of low frequency sound. Both of my suggestions produce fairly low bass, JBL 305 rated at 43 Hz +/- 3 db and who knows about the Inclines as Def Tech doesn't report frequency response using the standard +/- 3 db (most likely they reach somewhere in the 50s?).

For the 305s, you are less likely to need a sub. Also, connecting a sub to the monitors can be complicated and will depend upon your overall setup. A related issue is whether you will be using an external digital-to-analog converter (DAC) - I recommend you do so for the improved sound quality and that you get one with a volume control. I think the best value approach is buy a pro audio interface - these have a DAC, volume control, and the types of cable connections that would facilitate mating your monitors and sub, plus other features that are used by recording musicians. I have the Steinberg UR22 (paid about $115 shipped new off ebay) but you can do fine with cheaper options: Lexicon Alpha has been recommended https://www.amazon.com/Lexicon-2-Channel-Desktop-Recording-Studio/dp/B000HVXMNE/ref=sr_1_6?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1472738288&sr=1-6&keywords=audio+interface or the Behringer UCA202 https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_5?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1472738288&sr=1-5&keywords=audio+interface

I went ahead and got the matching JBL LSR310S, but it is expensive ($400 usually but I got mine new on ebay for $279). It was worth it to me as I work from home and listen to some electronic music. Here are ebay listings now: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=jbl+lsr310s&_sop=15 Monoprice has a studio sub at $220 that would work (http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=115&cp_id=11504&cs_id=1150401&p_id=605999&seq=1&format=2 For cable connections it will depend on what audio interface you get (suggest you buy cables from Monoprice for their support - don't bother with Guitar Center or similar places as their cable prices are very high), however, I think you need the following: for the Behringer you have to use unbalanced connections, qty 4 TRS male x RCA male cables, a) connect the interface to your computer with the supplied USB cable, b) then connect the interface input to the sub input using two (left & right) male TRS x RCA cables, and c) then two more male TRS x RCA (one each, L&R) from the sub output to the 305s input. For the Lexicon Alpha, you would connect in a similar manner but can use balanced connections, total of 4 male TRS x male TRS.

For the Inclines and in considering your initial budget goal, you could go with any of the budget subs. My son has the Dayton SUB-800 http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sub-800-8-80-watt-powered-subwoofer--300-627 ($99 - $5 Labor Day coupon + $6.95 shipping). I'd spend another $20 and get the Dayton SUB-1000 because it supposedly goes down to 30 Hz http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sub-1000-10-100-watt-powered-subwoofer--300-628 You would need a subwoofer cable for the connection, such as https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Subwoofer-Cable-Feet/dp/B003FVYXY0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1472740255&sr=8-3&keywords=subwoofer+cable

As I mentioned before, one the nice things about the Incline is that it has a built-in DAC; however, the "manual" isn't very helpful - this review does a good job of explaining the source input hierarchy and how to engage the DAC (there isn't an input selection switch so you have to unplug cables to make sure the DAC overrides your computer onboard sound card - in any case, use the USB input or optical for DAC): http://www.audioholics.com/computer-speaker-reviews/definitive-technology-incline-desktop-speakers-review

These are the exact cables I used to extend both my rifts. Both are lossless quality; no noise, snow, nothing.

USB Extension

HDM Extension

Also in case you are interested, these are the cables I used to extend my sensor cables. Entire system works flawlessly. Some people have had to plug one or two of the sensors into a USB2.0 slot instead of 3.0 to get perfect tracked. I just split the 3.0's up between several different card. A good rule of thumb is two inputs per card. So i used the MOBO slots, the top panel slots, and my PCI-E USB slots to ensure each component was receiving sufficient power.

Hope this helps. Best of luck and enjoy (:

Bit of a long shot, but this adapter will get you a 3.5mm headphone audio out.

Now, I say it's a long shot because it's pretty worthless at $35, however, all the WalMart stores around my area have them all on clearance for $7, which makes it a much better deal. While it doesn't say anything about working on a PS3, I have tried it, and it does work, though you will want a headset or speakers with volume control.

Otherwise, use an old PlayStation composite out cable, with the red, white, and yellow connectors, and get something like this adapter to convert it to a 3.5mm headphone jack.

Best of luck, and happy hunting!

Alright, thanks! Would something like this work? (Maybe there's a better quality brand I should look into?) http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CPR203-Dual-Inch/dp/B000068O18/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1408054622&sr=1-1&keywords=TS+to+RCA

Also, if you don't mind me adding onto the question, I'd like to try my best to milk my DAC/Amp for as much as possible. Would you recommend going for something better than the Magni and/or replacing my DAC in the future if I want the most out of my sound? Thanks again.

I have been putting together a 5.1 system, and was wondering if you would be able to take a look at it! Maybe something you would recommend other than what is here. This set up is a little more than I wanted to spend, but from what I have read about each piece, it seems to be worth it. Any advice is appreciated!


Denon S500BT


BIC America F12


Micca MB42X Center


Micca MB42X BookShelf


Fluance AVBP2 Surround


A few questions I have:

• Are the Fluance dedicated rear speakers worth the extra 50 bucks over 4 of the Micca bookshelf speakers?
  
  
• Is the Micca center speaker a recommended speaker? I didn't see it listed in the OP, but I found it while searching through amazon, and figured that matching the front two speakers was a good idea.
  
  
• I was also looking into the Denon E300, but I don't see any advantages over the S500BT - any advice?
  
  
• What other things will I need to complete this system? Some speaker cable for sure, do I need a sub cord or any banana plugs? It doesn't look the S500 uses plugs, but I figured I would ask.

There's a switch on the back of the Behringer amp tl pick from stereo or mono. Set it to mono, and both channels will be driven by a single input: Same thing as a Y cable, but with fewer parts.

Your list looks pretty complete, but that XLR cable won't do you much good with a typical receiver unless it also has an XLR output (most are RCA outputs).

The Behringer amp can accept XLR or 1/4" connections. If it were me and my own system, I'd get something like this:

Hosa CPR-201 Dual 1/4" TS to Dual RCA Stereo Interconnect Cable, 1 Meter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O16/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Cfd8CbWWVZMT4

Split the pair and put half in a drawer for when you get a receiver with multiple subwoofer outputs, or decide to rent some full-range PA speakers to piss off the neighbors with.

Speaking of PA: Handles are glorious things for enormous and heavy boxes. If you can work some into your design, I think you'll be much happier when those monsters inevitably need moved.

The LS305 are nice speakers, I think they hit well above most of the 5 inch budget studio monitors out there, but that is just my opinion. Studio monitors are great for computers becasue they are designed for nearfield listening. Most studio monitors have XLR inputs, it's kind of standard. The JBL LS305 can be connected via XLR or TRS. which are just as good as RCA cables. You really need to decide wether you want an external DAC or to run off your computers Audio. The cheapest DAC route I would consider is the Behringer UCA202 At $30.00. It takes the music signal from the computer via USB cable to the DAC and provides RCA outputs. You can spend a lot more on a DAC but this will work. I bought one for my girlfriends laptop and it works well. This really comes down to your budget for the DAC. Most of them will be able to connect to your speakers and some may require an adapter cable. The Benchmark DAC1 I use has balanced outputs and RCA outputs. I have tried them both with the JBL's and can not really hear a difference.

If you have a source with rca outputs something like this cable will work to connect the JBL's.
RCA Cable to TRS

If you want to output from your computer something like this should work.
Mini jack to TRS

It would not make a difference as long as the converter does not support your monitors resolution. Only plausible solution could be an active adapter (converter) as it supports higher resolutions but the real active adapters cost 80-100$. You can buy a new monitor for that amount. And you can tell if it is real active adapter or not, is if it has an USB cable attached to it. The ones that are labled as active adapters but don't have a USB cable are actually passive adapters and you already own 2 of them, clearly they don't work.
Here is what an real active adapter looks alike: https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-002B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Dual-Link/dp/B002ISVI3U/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1467454662&sr=8-3&keywords=DisplayPort+to+DVI-D+Dual-Link+Adapter
NOTE: I can't promise that even this would work.

If you want to integrate video sources, I would recommend getting a home theater receiver. It will work fine for stereo music and offers a ton of good features.

This is a good choice: https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavrs730h/denon-avr-s730h-7.2-ch-x-75-watts-a/v-receiver-w/heos/1.html

Next you need some speakers, I’d get these Infinity R162, it’s a killer price on some great speakers. They will play loud and clear and work well for music and movies: https://www.harmanaudio.com/speakers/R162BK-Z.html

Lastly you need a sub, again Infinity has a great sale on this and i don’t think there’s anything better unless you spend quite a bit more for a RSL speedwoofer: https://www.infinityspeakers.com/reference-series-home/REFERENCE+SUB+R10.html

Speaker cables: Micca Pure Copper Speaker Wire with Gold Plated Banana Plugs, 14AWG, 6 Feet (2 Meter), Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZZ5HCTM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_n60mDbHDDC5EV

Speaker stands: Sanus BF24B 24 Inch Speaker Stands (Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006JQ5N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_M60mDb568ER14

Subwoofer cable: Mediabridge ULTRA Series Subwoofer Cable (15 Feet) - Dual Shielded with Gold Plated RCA to RCA Connectors - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003FVYXY0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_a70mDbDG54CND

I'd guess that it's not possible unless you have the music stored on your phone (not streamed). Most cars (at least from my experience) that don't have "cutting edge-ish" technology like Android Auto/Apple CarPlay don't see it as a phone, they see it as a media device to look for music on. Thus, they won't stream music playback, they will look for the files and try to play music from them. That's what it sounds like is happening with your old iPhone too.

The best shot as far as playing media that exists on device storage is looking for an option that might appear when you're charging the phone that says what it connected to your car as. It sounds like your phone might be connecting for charging only, i.e. no data connection. If you tap that notification or go into the developer settings (tap build number 7 times or so in about phone in settings), you might be able to change it to something to make your car actually recognize files on your phone.

Bluetooth is a different story, because your car treats it like an audio input like auxiliary input. Speaking of which...

Does your car have an auxiliary input (might be labeled as "aux" or "aux in")? If so, you can get a 3.5mm auxiliary cable like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Premium-Auxiliary-Headphones-iPhones/dp/B00R124LAK and just plug it in like that. If your only concern is audio quality, the cable should fix that. Just plug one end into your car, and the other into your phone's headphone jack.

Not sure where your aux jack would be, it might be inside the armrest (mine is in my '19 WRX). If not it might be next to your 12V DC out (cigarette lighter port), wherever that is, or next to your USB port.

Also, I'll add that using the aux jack is probably your best bet here, and will give you the same audio quality as if you were to plug headphones into your phone (at least, as close as your car's audio system can come to a pair of headphones, at which point it's the car, not the connection). Also those cables are super cheap.

If you somehow don't have an auxiliary port, there exists a weird gadget that plugs into your cigarette lighter port and has an auxiliary cable at the other end. You turn on your car radio and set the thing to the station you're on, and it'll play music through that. It's odd, but it does work (as long as you have a good station to use it with). Like this one, although that specific example is out of stock.

Sorry, I guess I missed the HDR support part. You are correct that the HDMI port nees to be 2.2. to allow HDR images to display. Without it, you'd get a blank screen. the 790 does support 4K with HDCP2.2 and HDR. Again, depending on how into AQ you are, soundbars do a decent job but I just don't think it's worth spending $200-300 dollars more. The Sony display is very good. I have the X800D and it looks amazing in my bedroom with both normal and HDR programs (it was last year's model but I saved $300 by buying it. The differences in the new displays weren't that important to me). As long as you connect your soundbar into an HDMI 2.2 port you should be good to go. Also, make sure your HDMI cables are certified high speed (full 18Gbps) and that the enhanced HDR settings are set to auto on you display. You probably know all this already but I read so many comments from people having problems getting HDR to work because they miss these simple points. These are what I'm using: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Certified-Premium-Speed-Cable/dp/B01GCGKI3O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499868918&sr=8-2&keywords=amazon+HDMI+certified+high+speed+cables
Hope this helps.

This is what you need

-AudioQuest - Diamond 3.3' High-Speed HDMI Cable. Hands down the absolute best HDMI cable I have ever owned. It took my CRT TV and made it in so vivid that real life looks flat and washed out in comparison.

It supercharged the X. It's now called Johnny 5

The K is so high it cannot even be measured. If I pause my VHS and zoom in I get so close that it's like looking at an X-ray.
At Best Buy in the States it's only $1,095.99 Bargain

I'm English myself and I couldn't find a 1 metre cable so I thought 5 is better than 1 and paid a very reasonable £2,299.00. It comes with free delivery too. So Reasonable

I posted this before, but there is another option without having to try and adjust to a left stick.

Still using a joystick in the right hand for yaw/pitch/roll. On the left a PC game pad like a Nostromo N52(Ignore the pricing, just a crazy Amazon seller).

A speedpad type controller has the hat for strafing vertical and horizontal. The keys in front (like W/S on a keyboard) for forward/backward thrusters. Then a throttle roller for setting fine throttle and you can easily hotkey any of the keys for % throttle jumps.

Then your hat on the joystick for view. Keys on the speedpad for menus and toggles.

That would probably be the most natural feeling 6DOF setup for most people. Moving one arm with a joystick is a change to many people because they are used to a mouse. Trying to coordinate 2 sticks would be tough.

I love Amazon but those cheap $2 ones didn't last long for me.

I've bought a Monster one (because I was feeling extra risky and felt like throwing my money away) that didn't last for 6 months.

I bought this: http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B004LTEUDO/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406677494&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=medialink+aux

and it's still running strong for over a year.

Good luck!

I bought a Vive Link Box to use as a signal/power booster in the middle, and it works great. This cured all my dropouts and audio glitches, as well as giving my system a Bluetooth radio.

This setup works great:

1. Vive Link Box
   
2. Vive Link Box Power Supply
   
3. 12 ft Power cable extension for Vive Link Box
   
4. 10 ft USB 3.0 extension cable
   
5. 10 ft Amazon Basics HDMI cable
   
6. Wire wrap to keep everything tidy
   
   Make sure you power cycle the Vive Link Box whenever you plug or unplug anything into it to for it to reinitialize and detect the headset.
   
   I really wish there was a more elegant solution, but so far this works the best for me.

Very true, but Amazon also sells AmazonBasics HDMI cables which are super cheap, pretty good quality and HDMI 2.0 spec:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014I8T0YQ/ref=twister_B016I3XG0S?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I can find only fragments of the other thread you're referring to, but the TS-to-RCA cable is legit. It's not an adapter or coupler or anything like that. It certainly won't be the best connection option, but again, it works (it wouldn't damage the audio interface or the speaker), and it would cost far less than a pair of new monitors.

I looked at those speakers you have (or had). They're these? Those are more like bookshelf speakers, not active studio monitors. And $400 for the pair? You can do better than that for less money.

The JBL 305P monitors are another popular choice. They cost $150 each, and taxes/shipping could push the cost of the pair past your $300 budget. But both the Presonus and JBL monitors are fine choices.

Two mediocre subs are better than 1 good one. I would buy two L12s right off the bat. The F12 is much better than the L12 so if you can do 2 of those then woohoo. SVS subs are a joke now because of servo tech.

Get this http://www.hlabs.com/products/crossovers/index_files/Page384.htm REMEMBER TO ORDER TWO WAY

Get some short Monoprice RCAs (on Amazon)
Remove the jumpers from the pre-outs and main in of your amp.

Pre-out> Harrison Labs > Main in (high pass output) and Subs (Low pass output)

Get some good subwoofer cable too, unlike normal RCA's it makes a difference. https://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/subwoofer/index.htm
Or
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003FVYXY0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1465602609&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=subwoofer+cable&dpPl=1&dpID=41i%2BDJgkXlL&ref=plSrch

Yep it's a pretty genius invention. Adaptable high pass and low pass. you can more finely tune the low pass on the sub.

I'm still waiting for my Rift actually, it arrives in another week, so not sure yet. But if you'd like I can report back when I get everything setup.

10m Active USB.3.0 Extensions (for front sensors)

3m USB 3.0 Extension (for HMD)

3m HDMI Extension (for HMD)

HDMI to DP Adapter (For GPU)

USB 3.0 PCI-E Card (to power the 10m active extensions)

I've read good things about all of these, with a lot of success stories. Hopefully all goes well on my end.

Hmm so RCA phono in and 3.5mm jack out.. The speakers are amped and have a volume control. So you need a phono stage cause all turntables need them to get your analog audio to line level. I assume you're trying to save money so we won't get serious. This Pyle should do the job

https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Phono-Turntable-Preamp-Preamplifier/dp/B004HJ1TTQ

From the pyle you'll want an RCA Male to 3.5mm Female cable. This should do it.

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Premium-Stereo-Female-Plated/dp/B003L14XTO

EDIT: OH looks like the Logitech speakers have an RCA input! So you don't need a converter. So this monoprice rca between the phono pre and the Logitech should work. Let me know if I'm wrong, cause if it doesn't have RCA input then you'll be going back to RCA to 3.5mm converter.

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-1-5ft-Premium-22AWG-Cable/dp/B003L1717K

If you need the RCA interconnect between the turntable and preamp.

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CRA-202DJ-Ground-Stereo-Interconnect/dp/B000PO1H80

Personally I'd get a good integrated like a yamaha, that's more in the direction of best way and hook it up to some nice floorstander towers or bookshelf speakers like Klipsch, Elac, and so on.

Just upgraded to 4K from the previous ATV model and I tried to turn on HDR mode but Apple TV does it’s check and says it’s switching to SDR.

This is from Samsung website for the KU6290:

“Our HDR Premium technology displays HDR (High Dynamic Range) content from new generation Ultra HD Blu-ray, HDR streaming content, and HDR content available on Vidity compliant storage devices. Meets CTA HDR-compatible requirements.”

Can anyone help me debug this? Or has anyone ran into similar issues? I tried switching HDMI ports and I have a Monoprice HDMI cable that supports HDR.

TIA

OK.. so I'm not sure how far you want to go. I got these two items >>

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-2-Pack-Extension-Ethernet/dp/B00JJ517VI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467169650&sr=8-1&keywords=Cable+Matters+2-Pack+High+Speed+HDMI+Extension+Cable+with+Ethernet++++++++++++10+Feet+-+3D+and+4K+Resolution+Ready
and
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467169808&sr=8-1&keywords=Cable+Matters+SuperSpeed+USB+3.0+++++++++++++Type+A+Male+to+Female+Extension+Cable+in+Black+10+Feet

and that gets me an additional 10 feet, which is cool, and I never have any problems. I DID initially, but I rolled back the USB3 Inateck Windows 10 driver, and it's been really stable since then. Not even one hiccup. Good luck to you. Hope this helps.

would you happen to know what cable will I need to buy to connect my two jbls to the BIC America F12 when i buy it? Unless the BIC already comes with the cables necessary. My monitors will already be plugged in my motherboard via y splitter

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-HOS-CPR201-Dual/dp/B000068O16 - would a wire like that be sufficient? i heard something about one of my HOSA y splitter cables going into an RCA into the subwoofer or whatever.

and yeah...im pretty sure i would've honestly been happy with any of the purchases, wheter it be an a5+ or a JBL. after all...this is merely my entry into the audiophile world. in a future upgrade i'll probably spend at least a grand on speakers.

Ok great info. I appreciate the clarification. I’ve found these cords which look right up my alley. DisplayPort Cords
I’ll check out a cheaper second monitor as well
Save some money that I can spend on the steam sale instead. Again really appreciate it!!

My headphones have adjustable volume. How would that compare to something like this though? https://www.amazon.com/Eeejumpe-inches-Stereo-Splitter-3-5mm-Adapter/dp/B0009JFF7A/ref=pd_rhf_dp_p_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=P2G1M8GC9K6E6WTK4MJC

Edit: Actually, scratch that. I'd prefer not having to keep switching the audio cables from the TV to headphones, so the Wii2HDMI converter with headphones that include an adjustable dial seems like the best solution. Appreciate the help!

I bought this 2-pack of HDMI extension cables from Amazon so that I could have one for my living room and my office - both have worked flawlessly for me at this point. I paired with the USB extension cables also linked below. Best of luck to you - it's nice to have longer cables.

Cable Matters 2-Pack High Speed HDMI Extension Cable with Ethernet 10 Feet - 3D and 4K Resolution Ready https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJ517VI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yIDxxbZPBDP76

Cable Matters 2-Pack High Speed HDMI Extension Cable with Ethernet 10 Feet - 3D and 4K Resolution Ready https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJ517VI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zHDxxbFWC62FN

"A lot better "ones" and more "zeros" in this cable!

I especially like the "ones", they are more "one" than what you normally would see in other cables. Very cheap cables tend to run out of zeros after you have been using them for too loud audio or video with a lot of blue in them. Not this cable, it has an abundance of zeros in reserve. It will keep feeding those zeros to your TV or Receiver like it's no tomorrow!

Very good cable WITH FREE SHIPPING! "

Pretty much any review on this. Though I guess they may not be in the spirit of this thread as I doubt anyone would take this seriously.

this

or

this

I'd also recommend the MDR-V6 if you can find it on sale.

Those are good choices for $50. Unfortunately you cannot plug headphones into the xbox 360 cotroller, only the xbox one. The cheapest way to connect them is to use this. You will have to plug in the audio cables to this connector and then plug your headphones into the other end.

This wont work if your friend only has an hdmi cable, there is another way to connect them but you will have to spend another $50 for an adapter. Still I bet your friend would appreciate a nice pair of headphones that they can use with all other devices.

/u/sb0k has some really good info!

To add to that... Something like a Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 would work great. It even comes with software (Pro Tools and Ableton) that would work just fine. You will need 2 RCA to 1/4" TS cables to connect the tape deck to the interface. The interface comes with the USB needed to connect to the computer. The software will recognize the inputs of the interface when you go to record. You will need to use the 2 inputs for stereo audio (L+R=2).

The interface is capable or recording at over 3x the resolution of CD audio. This will be more than you would ever need in terms of file quality. The actual sound quality will be dictated by whatever tape deck you find. But for the most part, you shouldn't have a problem finding something that will work well.

Great! So, the Cable Matters USB3 10ft cable you linked seems to work for others.

But, the AmazonBasics HDMI 10ft cable sounds fishy in the reviews. A long with a bunch of other HDMI cables (10ft). One review said the 15ft cable worked great (amazonbasics).

Based on youtube, this one does not work at all.
Ultra Clarity Cables
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Someone is also saying it all depends on your motherboard?

My computer has a USB 3.0 port with the [battery]+ symbol, so I'm going to take a leap of faith and purchase the cables matter 10ft usb3 cable and the 10ft amazonbasics hdmi cable.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/?th=1
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-Female-Extension-Cable/dp/B01D5H91KE/


Should arrive a day before my Odyssey+

The Cloudlifter would be a complete waste of money here and many people use them where they aren't needed.

The bad news here is that Behringer's classic mixers are just plain garbage. End of story. Good for seeing how high it will bounce when being thrown off the roof of a building though.

I would go so far as to say you shouldn't even look at mixers at all unless you're playing an instrument like a guitar in addition to using the mic. You mix where your sources are, so on a gaming PC you need to mix in software on the PC, not in some external box that you need to setup loopback on. The type of software mixer you're looking for is Voicemeeter.

Behringer's "HD" audio interfaces, however, are pretty decent on the cheap. I just wouldn't touch anything less than the $60 UMC202HD though.

At the end of the day, a 2-input/2-output USB audio interface like the Behringer UMC202HD is all you need. I wouldn't bother with an external hardware mixer at all. It's just not needed. If you want to spend a bit more on a nicer interface, Tascam, Roland, and Zoom are worth looking at. Just don't buy Focusrite Scarlett as their Windows 10 drivers are straight-up broken and won't be fixed any time soon.

Get a decent mic arm like the On Stage MBS5000, plug one end of the XLR cable into the SM58, then the other end into your audio interface, e.g. UMC202HD. Plug your speakers and headphone into the interface. Done. That's all you need. You don't even need a foam ball as a vocal dynamic like that SM58 has a built-in pop filter foam behind it's screw-on head. You can stop using your motherboard's onboard audio entirely too. Maybe do an isolation mic clip if you're feeling fancy.

Remember you need a mic arm as putting your mic on the desk is too far away from your mouth and the mic will pick up more keyboard, mouse, and room noise than it will of your voice.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BWM5E8C

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ZO60I

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QHURUBE

Some adapters you might need, maybe, depending on how your PC speakers are setup:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010D0HO0

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O3S

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O18

I had some serious trouble finding a back-facing shot, and the specifications on tascam's website arent very specific, but according to this image: http://forum.ixbt.com/post.cgi?id=attach:90:1520:0:1 it looks like a RCA output (I have one on my behringer) and if so, the cheapest would be something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CPR-203-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O18 I got a similar product at guitar center and it works fine. There are also boxes you can get to balance the signal from the unbalanced RCA, but if you're on a budget, it should be fine.

Edit: also. This http://estaticos2.milanuncios.com/fg/1975/16/otros-instrumentos-musicales/Tarjeta-sonido-TASCAM-US-144-197516878_4.jpg definitely looks like an RCA

A full setup that will record four local mics, max, or two local mics and a Skype caller. A choice of mics.

Behringer UMC404HD interface for $100 (needs a USB cable I think)

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UMC404HD-BEHRINGER-U-PHORIA/dp/B00QHURLHM/

Behringer HA400 headphone amp for $25

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HA400-BEHRINGER-MICROAMP/dp/B000KIPT30/

Needs two TRS 1/4" stereo cables, one for the headphone amp and one for Skype. $10

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CSS-105-Balanced-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068NYF/

Behringer XM1800S three pack of good enough mics for $40

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-XM1800S-BEHRINGER-ULTRAVOICE/dp/B000NJ2TIE/

or a slightly better Behringer XM8500 at $20 each

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Ultravoice-Dynamic-Microphone-Cardioid/dp/B0002KZAKS/

or a very nice Blue enCORE 100 at $60

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Microphones-enCORE-100-Studio-Grade/dp/B002SQJL9U/

A couple 9-foot XLR cables for $12 or vary as you see fit

https://www.amazon.com/2-Pack-Cable-Male-Female-Microphone/dp/B074KYQ66J/

On-Stage, desk stand for $13 (lots of options)

https://www.amazon.com/Stage-DS7200-Adjustable-Microphone-Stand/dp/B0002M3OVI/

You need some RCA to 1/4" TS cables. Technically two though there are reasons up to four and this six pack is cheap at $8. Wish they were shorter.

https://www.amazon.com/GLS-Audio-Patch-Cable-Cords/dp/B0010XVYGA/

or you can get by with one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CPR-201-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O16/

and my personal favorite, the UCA202 for $30

https://www.amazon.com/BEHRINGER-U-Control-Low-Latency-Interface-Digital/dp/B000KW2YEI/

This gives you full Skype access to the other rig for Two local mics.

!

There are ways to do it. I don't know if your using an xbox or a ps3, but either way if you are using the red/white/yellow analog connectors, just slap one of these onto the console's output and then plug in your headphones. that should work for anything using the three red/white/yellow hookups.

However, if your Xbox360 is plugged in via HDMI, you will instead need one of these which plugs in to the component port on the back, and one of these to make it work with the headphones. Note that the xbox adapter comes with an optical port which you will use should you upgrade to high-quality headphones ;)
With this setup you will get audio out to headphones. To get chat in the headphones, go to the preferences, select chat, and output to speakers.

Note that this system doesn't allow for a microphone. You can go ahead and leave the microsoft headset around your neck, or you could get the ever-popular zalman clip-on and this adapter to plug it in to your controller.
They really make this harder than it ought to be :/

Also consider audio extension cables of varying lengths because you'll notice that the adapter cables are not very long.


The easiest way to hook up your favorite headphones is to use an Astro Mixamp. It will include all the needed cables and included a swanky volume knob and a balance knob to adjust game sound and voice levels. Much more expensive, though! At the price for the mixamp, you may as well just buy the whole system which includes a headset as well.

I would link stuff for PS3 using an hdmi cable as well to make an all-inclusive guide, but I simply don't own a PS3 so I can't be certain.

You could get away with using an HDMI only device if you wanted to do that by converting the analog signal to a digital one. I have the Elgato HD 60, which only has the HDMI input so to capture something like Xbox 360 games, I have to convert the signal.

This is exactly what I bought for the 360 and have had great success with it. For composite you would need this as well.

I honestly don't know of any capture cards outside of the Blackmagic Intensity Shuttle that have legacy inputs and I've had no luck getting the Intensity Shuttle to capture any sub-480p resolutions. I would convert the analog signals to digital and buy a modern capture card.

It's okay man, you are just starting out and that's all part of getting better sound. Upgrading is my favorite part because then you can really hear the difference!

Just so that I have it right in my head, the back of your subwoofer has an input for speakers? Does it have an LFE port? How many speaker inputs does it have? What this does is bypass the receiver to manage the sound levels to the "mids" and provide an amplifier to them, then the subwoofer connects to the receiver correct?

Your subwoofer has what are called speaker level inputs. It powers the speakers with the subwoofers amplifier. Most newer receivers (like the one you bought) have line level inputs, which are used to run self-powered subwoofers (which is what I'm assuming you have).

You should really connect the speakers you have directly to the receiver and buy a subwoofer cable that has RCA to RCA Connectors and then connect it to the AVR (receiver) to the subwoofer input. It will sound a lot better.

-Edit- (Depends on if your sub has an LFE output from searching the web for "Canton Subwoofer" it doesn't look like it has one, shit. It might though)

The best thing to do is take a picture of the back of the subwoofer and if possible how you have it hooked up to the receiver.

Nice set up all around though!

The LSR305's can be a bit tricky to get the best out of them. The ideal cheap way to connect them is to use a cheap DAC like this plugged into your USB on the PC, and then a cable like this going from the DAC to the speakers.

Otherwise, you can use a cable like this and go straight from your PC to the speakers. Just know that on-board audio from PC's tend to have noisy analog connections. If something is playing it probably wont be noticeable, but expect a little more hiss/noise this route. A little might be unavoidable, do to the high power built in amplifier.

Try not to let all this scare you off though, they really are a fantastic desktop setup.

I haven't had any issues, even on games that don't have native WMR support. My only issue was the short cable with the Odyssey, but I picked up these three items to extend the cable and stick them to my desk and it's working perfectly and now has the same range as my vive did.

Something I should add, the og vive with wireless and a das would cost less than a vive pro, but you'd have wireless, which improves immersion drastically. Not to add another thing for you to consider and further complicate your decision making process.

Sorry to spam you, but are these the same as the one you linked? amazon I prefer to order from amazon since I get free next day, but there’s a few low quality reviews up top and just wanted to double check. I know those could just be defective or just idiots using them but I want to make sure before I order them. I have until like 10pm tonight to order and I’lol still get them tomorrow. Gotta love that convenience

Amplifier

PA horn

CB to Amp cable (standard 3.5mm aux cable)

You’ll need speaker wire to run from the Amp to the PA and you’ll need to power the amp somehow. They sell an AC to DC power supply but if installing in a 12VDC vehicle you can run 12v to it directly but you’ll just need the barrel connector / plug end. You can buy those on amazon as well or if you have access to electronic scraps or spare laptop power supplies you can hack one off there and wire it to your system.

To use the speaker without the amplifier, not sure how loud it would be, probably not very because the CB can only put out like 12-15 Watts on PA, you can use this cable to hook the speaker to the CB

Hope that helps.

idk about the PYST cable. how long is it? I bought this for my setup and it works great: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003L1717K/

And yes the valhalla 2 is a great pair with the 650

edit: oh and I just looked. At 6 inches I don't think the Schiit PYST cable would reach. I can take a pic of my setup when I get home so you can see what the spacing is like if you want.

Unless you get a higher end AVR with ADC which will cost more, there are some adapters for cheap on Amazon but the reviews are pretty mixed such as this.

That said, it is relatively cheap and Amazon has a good return policy so may be worth a shot.

Yes this is possible, you will need a headphone/microphone & headphone splitter as well as an aux cord. Here are links to both. I'm sure this can be done with a different splitter, but this is what I use and it works great! If you are looking for a cheaper one, make sure it is headphone/microphone & headphone splitter, because regular ones will not do the job.

http://www.amazon.com/Extrasensory-Devices-ESDHW010-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B006T637G8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

http://www.amazon.com/Anker-Premium-Auxiliary-Headphones-iPhones/dp/B00R124LAK?ie=UTF8&keywords=aux%20cord&qid=1465280604&ref_=sr_1_4&s=electronics&sr=1-4

Super stylish.

Then you can bring along your camera, film some sweet video, take some nice selfies, then go home and watch it on your sweet TV and hooking the camera up with you diamond HDMI camble

Depends on what your budget is. I'd suggest, within your budget, a Modi Multibit + Magni Uber and you'll have yourself equipment that can power future headphones. If not, you can't go wrong with a Modi 2 + Magni 2 Uber and it's one of the best bang for your buck stack. It'll be a nice improvement over your motherboard's sound card which can carry noise from your video card/power supply/fans.

You'll have to purchase a USB A to B cable as well as as an RCA male to male cable.

USB A to B I purchased:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH11KIK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

RCA Cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003L1717K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can also purchase the 6" PYST cable from Schiit for $20. -_-

I just got this and this and run the phone without turning it's screen off. Gets the job done perfectly, also got a free GPS app that works great (Waze).

Carabiners are useful. Clip one to a back belt loop on a pair of jeans/etc, then loop the cable through it. It goes a long way towards keeping the cable out of the way of your feet. It also cuts down on the amount of "tugging" you feel on your head as you pull the cable along behind you, which makes it feel a little less immersion-breaking.

> Do I need to get some extension cables to allow more freedom of movement further away from my PC? If so, which ones?

I think so, assuming you have the play space. Oculus has some recommended cables. I bought these 10ft extensions on Amazon and they have served me well with quite a few different headsets with no issues - HDMI and USB

Just because people have already suggested steam controller etc. There are vertical mice and such that look like this http://www.clickwithyourmac.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/VM4R-med-300x241.jpg, that might be a superior option. AND something like a speedpad might work over a keyboard eg. http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-F8GFPC100-Nostromo-Speedpad-n52/dp/B0000DC643/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1462120318&sr=1-3keywords=speedpad

EDIT: There are also foot pedal systems you could get if you wanted to assign certain functions to your feet to make it easier. eg. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=computer+foot+pedal

Well, not really.

Accessories normally have a higher margin but even those are somewhat competitive. For example Best Buy sells house brand USB extension cables for $4.99. http://www.bestbuy.com/site/dynex-6-usb-a-to-usb-a-extension-cable-black/8610285.p?skuId=8610285

The $300 cables are audiophile snake oil that no reasonable person would even consider. Like this one: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/audioquest-carbon-9-8-hdmi-cable-black-dark-gray/9892524.p?skuId=9892524

And that's nothing compared to what you can find at Amazon, like these $2700 HDMI cables from the same manufacturer:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CT2A6I/ref=s9_dcacsd_dcoop_bw_c_x_4_r

I do not work for Best Buy, nor have I purchased anything from them in the past 2 years. I used to work for one of their vendors though.

That cable looks pretty plasticy. I had a pretty bulky and plasticy cable like that hooked up the SHP9500 and it was uncomfortable when hitting my shoulder. It also passed a bunch of vibrations to the headphones which wasn't pleasant.

Most will recommend VMODA: https://www.amazon.com/V-MODA-Extended-Audio-Cable-Black/dp/B00MYTR7KQ/

I have the aux cord from ANKER and it's pretty decent. Should come in a longer length as well: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Premium-Auxiliary-Headphones-iPhones/dp/B00R124LAK/

I'll also point you to the aux cord from status audio: https://www.amazon.com/Status-Audio-Headphone-Universal-one-button/dp/B01F2NT3TS/

Just use a single RCA cable for your sub. I recommend [this one.](Mediabridge ULTRA Series Subwoofer Cable (15 Feet) - Dual Shielded with Gold Plated RCA to RCA Connectors - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003FVYXY0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GS1Syb04D5C47) Your receiver will pull the subwoofer frequency out of the audio information and feed it to your sub, not your tiny bookshelfs. You need to set your front speakers to SMALL on the receiver and the crossover to 120 Htz. This should be done automatically when you set the speakers to small, but just double check. Turn your subwoofers crossover to the highest setting possible, as the receiver is doing the work here. Don't do it twice. Then listen to something, and adjust the sub's volume knob until you can barely hear/feel it. Then you know the volume is correct.

Enjoy!


EDIT: Why are you spending almost twice as much on your sub as you are your speakers? The speakers is where you'll notice the biggest improvement in sound. Start there with your budget, then improve other areas as you see fit. It'd be a shame to see you pay over $300 for a subwoofer and receiver that are fed to $80 speakers.

I thought about that ....lol.

Yes his recommendation was 1 or 2 8' subs. Way too small.

Regarding wiring will this be ok for the sub and for the speakers?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006LW0W5Y/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003FVYXY0/ref=ox_sc_act_image_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1DCPNQKKEISZB

Do you know the best place that I could try and sell my soundbar other then eBay or craigslist. I would love to get this system going.

Sorry if this is a silly question but would upgrading the Modi just allow it to do the same thing as my current modi but also act as a pre amp? Can you recommend a decent set of speaker stands?

I ordered the pre amp so we got that down.
Now I just want to make sure I've got it straight.
I need these cables for the speakers and these cables for the pre amp

One last question is how do I connect the stack to each other as the Modi 2 and Magni 2 only have one spot where you can plug in RCA cables and they run into each other. Would I just unplug the amp when I want to use my speakers?

yes a very good vaporize, what is your point? if you knew anything about how they are made you would know how silly you sound shit the most expensive part is the wood and what's there is like a dollars worth, according to you this must be the best HDMI ever http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Ethernet-Connection-meters/dp/B003CT2A6I/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top/179-9757774-1567653 sometimes people pay too much for a product and believe because they paid more they are getting a better product even it's the same thing it's called the Price Placebo Effect look it up.

Ok, so I understand the intention of that rule, and agree with it that we should try to eliminate unfair advantages for people.

But when it comes to things like this that are entirely clientside and completely undetectable, it's probably a good idea to just let them be. I could play with a nostromo pad, or a programable keyboard, or a Dvorak keyboard, and as fas as the client knows I just pressed the "9" key, regardless of what my mapping is.

It's like making a rule that says "All players must wear pants while logged into the server". You can't detect it, and you can't enforce it

I needed the exact same thing. This is what I went with from amazon. They work great. One is the set of the tripods and the other is the mini ball head you will need for each lighthouse with the tripod.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012FTXOW4/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001WB02Z4/

I would also recommend extending the triple cable an extra 10 feet. You won't be able to keep the cable and HMD in the box after adding the cables, but it doesn't get tangled as easy and just works better when having other people try it for the first time.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FT9VW0O/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0008JHB14/

Yes there is! Buy DisplayPort 1.4 cables. Here's an Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/ivanky-DisplayPort-Braided-Display-Compatible/dp/B078HVDMW2/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=displayport+1.4&qid=1556579585&s=gateway&sr=8-5
I wish you the best gaming experience!

After several months and hundreds of dollars I think I'm complete!

Turntable:
Kenwood KD-40R. One day I asked my dad if he had a turntable and this is what started it all. We found it in the attic, original box and in great shape. Replaced the needle and I was good to go. (Minus not having anything else, of course)

Speakers:

• Polk TSi 100 Bookshelf Speakers (Ebay, $100)
  
  Sub:
  
  
• Polk PSW10 (Newegg shell shocker, $80)
  
  Stands:
  
  
• Sanus Systems Wood Speaker Stands
  
  Receiver (hidden behind tv):
  
  
• Onkyo TX-NR509 Network Receiver. This thing is freaking awesome. I got it on sale from Amazon for $150. I control it with my phone, stream music from my phone, run the computer/turntable/game consoles through it.
  
  Cables:
  
  
• Dayton Audio SCP-6 6 Feet Speaker Cable Pair with Bananas.
  
  
• Mediabridge Sub Cable
  
  Preamp:
  
  
• Behringer PP400
  
  

Only DVI-I supports analog, DVI-D is digital only. And DP also supports analog signals natively.

As for converting component RGB signal, HDMI might actually be your best bet, as this conversion is done in a lot of AV/Home Theater setups, so there's a lot of support/hardware for it.

So something like this - https://www.amazon.com/Portta-YPbPr-Component-Converter-support/dp/B003VJ9RP6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid

yeah, that's about the only thing I'm not a fan of. I have a pair of Audio Technica M50s and the plug-in jack is too wide to fit in the headphone jack, but I don't really use those with my phone too often anyway.

The thing that did cause an issue was trying to use the AUX jack in my car, to listen to my music. I owned 3 male-to-male audio cables and all of them had really wide jacks just like the headphones. I had to buy a specific cable to fit the case properly.

This is the cable I bought from Amazon and it fits perfectly. In case anyone else has a similar problem.

While I agree that an XLR microphone is a better all-around choice to a USB one unless you need a direct connection to your computer, since you've already got the microphones, I would also point out that the mic you're using has a headphone port. It may be worth getting a mixer (most XLR mixers will also support 1/4" jacks, so if you upgrade to an XLR mic in the future you won't need a new mixer) and pick up something like this to patch it through.

You could try if you have a straight male-male 1/8" cable lying around to record it through your computer's line-in or microphone jack to see if the quality is still good first.

Have you considered getting a G13 or N52?

I have a first edition G15 + G13 right now (and have been using them for years). Though in the past I have used an N52 (original one, not any of the newer ones). I really like the ergonomics of having a gamepad off to the side and being able to map the keys with specific settings per game. I'd try them both (N52/G13) since they each have a slightly different shape/layout and see which is more comfortable for you.

On the LCDs that Logitech puts on some of their products: What type of games do you play? Do you use voice comm software like ventrilo/mumble/teamspeak? Depending on what I'm playing the LCD has been extremely useful. My primary uses are secondary score/stat screen, clock for timing spawns, and knowing who the hell is talking in voice chat (getting around the ubiquitous I need help! Who is I? calls that go out from time to time).

oh. yep, male to male RCA and some speaker wire will be needed.

dont get tricked into expensive "fancy" rca's either. for a small distance there wont be much difference.

something like this would be perfect https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-1-5ft-Premium-22AWG-Cable/dp/B003L1717K/ref=lp_597546_1_8?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1468903801&sr=1-8

edit: same with speaker wire, dont need expensive stuff just get decent 14 gauge or whatever fits your speaker terminals. and i always put some of these on my speaker wire, cause it makes things much easier if you have to unplug anything. https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Banana-Plugs-Corrosion-Resistant-Gold-Plated/dp/B00JFC9ALE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468903981&sr=8-1&keywords=speaker+plugs

So for those of you who wanted a parts list and a cost breakdown here it is...some of these costs might be a little rough but I'll get close.

• Parts Express Overnight Sensations Kit---$138.00
  
• Sonic Barrier Sound Dampening Foam---$13.25
  
• SMSL Q5 Amp---$129.99
  
• C8 Power Inlet---$10.16
  
• C7 Power Cord---$4.61
  
• 3.5 mm Cable---$4.99
  
• USB Cable---$8.99 (for 2)
  
• RCA Cables-need two---$9.18
  
• Digital Audio Cable---$1.69
  
• M3 by 30 mm Bolts---$9.65
  
• #6 Wood Screws---$8.37
  
• High Density Foam Tape---$5.60
  
• 24 AWG Red Wire---$9.55
  
• M6 by 40 mm Hex Bolts---$4.66
  
• Threaded Inserts---$4.55
  
• RiteAV Custom Wallplate---$26.33
  
• 1/4 inch Plywood---$5.77
  
  I don't think I missed anything, so that should be about it. I already had the glue, stain, Deft and tools to complete the project which was pretty great. Not to mention free wood so for any of your projects factor those things in. For those of you asking about the crossovers and those component they are included in the Parts Express kit along with detailed instructions. The total came to $395.34 but I had some materials left over for use on future projects so I would actually say its a little less. Additionally, I found the SMSL Q5 on sale from Parts Express so it came out to only $84.00 so that cut costs a lot I just couldn't find a link with that price, this build happened about a month ago.

Okay so since this thread is just gaining traction, I'll post my review:

I had a benq xl2411.

Ordered one of these from costco

First one came in looking like someone had either literally kicked a hole into the box or it had eaten the corner of a bench or something during shipping. The monitor faces outward in the packaging, and you could tell on the cloth-type styrofoam pad around the monitor that something had come into contact with it (there was an indentation and slight rip in the styrofoam cloth), it had a mark on it when I turned it on that almost looked like a nail pressing. Guessing it ate the corner of a bench.

Returned it, got another one shipped to me very quickly (only a couple days shipping). New one also has issues that i'll discuss in a sec.

Colors are amazing, especially if you follow this guy's guide


Very bright, very vibrant colors. Coming from the benq xl2411 it felt like day and night difference, what I expect some people describe is the difference between a TN and IPS panel is. Like some games that used to be dull and boring to look at were suddenly vivid and interesting.

Extremely smooth framerate. I went from using Lightboost on the benq (which capped it to 120hz) to using this with 240hz and its a huge difference imo, as big as 60 to 120 was, for me, at least. I also have a rig that can handle 240 on ultra on most games now.

The cables it comes with are kind of short, and it only comes with an HDMI cable. For the full bandwidth of 1080p 240hz gaming, you need a displayport 1.2 cable that has been tested and received VESA certification. I got this one

The stand it actually nice, at least for my desk setup. And the color of it goes well with my white Yamaha HS8's.

The legs are almost as wide as the monitor though, this might not work for those of you who have cramped desk space.

Anyway, so this panel started doing this weird flickering thing for me, similar to the picture that this person took but mine is a vertical strip, 3-4 inches wide slightly to the right of the screen (so not as wide as the picture in that forum post). It would do this once every day or two very quickly for only a few frames. Then it started happening multiple times a day, sometimes lasting for a second or two, sometimes involving horizontal flickering of a similar type. It also seems to sometimes have weird flickering/color issues around certain objects that pop up quickly in a game.

The other day, the entire vertical segment that is a few inches wide became gray. It wasn't like the monitor was turned off in that area, it was just a completely gray band (but backlit), and it wouldn't render anything that was happening on my computer there, but it would still render my desktop or any program on either side of it.

Because it did that gray thing, I finally called in and decided to stop ignoring the problem and exchange for another one.

A day after I put in the return, I was playing binding of isaac windowed on the larger half of the screen that was still visible, and then it did the flickering thing again and the gray band went away. It still does the flickering thing every few hours for a split second.

I do not know what causes this, and I am hoping it is a bad panel, and getting the new one will fix the problem.

It is still a good monitor, and if the third one I get doesn't have any issues, I'll be really happy with the purchase.

Okay. So if I understand correctly your cable only has one 1/4" connector, right? Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMS-110-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O36 ?

If so, the issue is that you're trying to connect your PC's stereo output (meaning it has two channels, left and right) into a balanced input (a more advanced for of a mono one channel input. Look up balanced signal if you want to learn more). The mixer input is not designed to handle a stereo signal, so it won't process it correctly.

Ideally, you should use a cable that has two 1/4" connectors (one for the left and one for the right) like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000068O3C and plug them into 2 separate channels on your mixer.

From what I have read and what you have said that makes me feel more confident that it is the cable provided with the monitor.

Apparently for DP 1.2 the cable needs to have the removal of a certain pin that is in the free cables that come with the monitors.

My new cable comes in today I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks!



Update: Cable defiantly fixed it, I have had no issues since I switched. Gforce experience used to cause all of the problems to happen at once but now it works perfectly.

Link for anyone having similar issues:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0098HVZBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_zm1Z6gUOuHJpw

Certified Premium High Speed HDMI Cable - $6.89

The best part is, they aren't expensive. I use these and they work perfectly with Dolby Vision and HDR10.

You don't want stereo 1/4" jacks--the JBL inputs are mono. What you want is two mono RCA cables, each with an RCA-1/4" adapter on the end (most common solution), or if you want to do it without adapters, get a cable like this.

You will also find that you have a problem with volume control, since the turntable's output is fixed. The simplest solution would be a passive controller like the Schiit Sys between the turntable and the speakers. That would allow you to connect another source (e.g. phone, laptop) easily as well.

I really want to be wrong because an 80 buck adapter would suck to require, but I swear when I was researching this I read that you have to make absolute sure your adapter is an active one or it won't enable 144 hz.

Something like this:

You can tell it's an active one because it plugs into a usb for a power input to enable the 144 hz conversion.

If you are looking to make an extension cord I got one working using these:

• HDMI to DVI
  
• USB 3 extension
  
• High quality HDMI extension
  
  The HDMI to DVI is critical as DVI port gets more power allocated to it on your graphics card. It didn't work at all when I tested it without that. I do get a tiny bit of visual artifacts on all black loading screens (maybe a better hdmi cable could fix that) but all in all I am very happy with how it turned out. Now my headset cable is 5.5 meters long and I never have any problems playing room scale.

HDMI via a booster and standard cable

Signal Booster (prevents picture dropout and headset screen going black)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01E14L5YA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Amazon Basics 3m HDMI Cable

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B014I8T0YQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB Via USB 3 3m passive extender . Can't remember the brand I bought but amazon basics ones are amazing quality. If they had been available when I ordered I would have got one of these. (3m passive cables are unreliable for sensors, but seem to work fine with my headset, prob because of the lower bandwidth required).

https://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-Male-Female-Extension-Cable/dp/B00NH12O5I/ref=sr_1_2?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1493135898&sr=1-2&keywords=3m+usb+3+extension+cable

Definitely worth trying a new cable. Also, for what it's worth, not all cables are equal - this is regarded as one of the better DisplayPort cables available in case you're interested:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098HVZBE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have the simplest of simple questions! I am using a Universal Power Cable (similar to the linked one but not the same model) to connect my PC to my UPS. I lost the original that came with my PSU and picked up whatever one was lying around the house and it seems to work fine. I just want to know if they're all the same or if I could be potentially underpowering my PC (if that's even possible to do with just a cable.) Thanks in advance! It's a pretty cheap cable so I'll probably order a replacement regardless. Is the amazon one I linked a solid choice?

Looks good. You might want to consider some shorter RCA cables, if they are going to be close to each other (i.e. stacked on top):

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-1-5ft-Premium-22AWG-Cable/dp/B003L1717K

But if you are ok with the 8ft length of the Amazon Basics one, that is fine too. The Monoprice one I linked above is short, but can be quite stiff, whereas the Amazon ones are a bit more forgiving, however, you will need to contend with the extra length.

It's not risky; no. It's just the cord.

Here is a youtube demonstration:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FptCB_3DOz4

I'm running this setup right now and it works perfectly. Basically the little adapter trick is saving you however much money it costs to buy the RCA cables that will allow you to plug HDMI in at the same time. Microsoft is just trying to nickle and dime you by putting a little plastic blocker piece on the RCA cable that comes standard with the Xbox. I use this method instead of plugging my headphones into the TV headphone jack; the audio when coming directly from the 360 is a lot higher quality than when it gets normalized/equalized through the TV.

Also, I use an adapter like this to convert the red/white audio cords into a headphone jack:

http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Splitter-Audio-Adapter/dp/B0009JFF7A/ref=sr_1_148?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1299531486&sr=1-148

Looks like you're gonna want to get an RCA cable like this (red and white on both ends). Run that from the record player to the subwoofer, then run that speaker cable from the two speakers to the subwoofer. This only works because your sub is powered.

Check out /r/zeos for more stuff like this if you need more help/diagrams and stuff. Also, look up the subwoofer crawl and speaker placement guides for getting it to sound as good as possible

I use

• a converter
  
  
• an hdmi to hdmi cable (one end into the tv and one end into the converter)
  
  
• and a 3.5mm jack to 3.5mm jack audio cable (one end to the tv, one end to the macbook)
  
  Works like a charm when I change the tv input to hdmi.
  
  edit:
  Thanks to nalc, looks like OP could use:
  
  
• Mini DVI to HDMI adaptor
  
  
• an hdmi to hdmi cable (one end into the tv and one end into the converter)
  
  
• and a 3.5mm jack to 3.5mm jack audio cable (one end to the tv, one end to the macbook)
  
  
  Depending on the devices used, the audio may or may not be transferred through HDMI. With my Macbook and tv, I need to hook up the audio cable separately (there is a jack next to the hdmi slot on my tv).
  

Thanks!

Okay in that case I would need one of these to go from the MK3 into my computer's output, right? And then this from the MK3 into my Pioneer?

I want to be able to record my computer's output into the MK3 as well as the Pioneer (for things like CDs and Tapes).

Wow you are so helpful, thank you.

So I think I've found a way that will work that involves less pieces. I cross posted this question in r/iphone here. The comments led me to this potential set up:

From my XDJ-RX's dual 1/4 TRS output, I'm going to have this male TS to male RCA cable going into the RCA input ports on the Behringer UCA202 (or UCA222), and then I will have that plug into the Apple Camera Connection Kit via USB, and then that goes into my phone. And THAT should get me a stereo signal.

Does that sound right to you? I'm like 95% sure that plugging two TS plugs into two TRS jacks (on the XDJ-RX) will only reduce the connection to unbalanced, but keep it stereo.

But it's good to know that if this setup doesn't work, the one that you suggested will. Finally this is all starting to make sense!

Please edit your post and remove the Zeos amazon affiliate links. Regular Amazon links are fine. Anything that has a "tag=" is a money-making affiliate link.

Also, I would say pick up a pair of JBL LSR305 speakers. They will sound much better and you can adjust their volume levels independently. They have amps built in already. Just purchase a pair of RCA to TRS/TS cables like these to connect them to the TV. You can use the same TV remote to control volume.

I use these 10' cables to extend the link box and have had zero issues. The Amazon basics HDMI is pretty good quality and I make sure to plug the Cable Matters USB 3.0 wire into a 2.0 port.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014I8T0YQ/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_apip_UqC38H59ci4DL

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSS9KJY/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_apip_IaA2Y3O6wb2iK

Yes, just a mini amp - pick up this - (its a clone of the original Tripath Lepai that's not made anymore, and has a great power supply)

• https://www.amazon.com/Kinter-K2020A-ORIGINAL-TA2020-020-Amplifier/dp/B077Z7DBRT
  
  and use the 3.5mm headphone output from your TV to either the RCA inputs or the 3.5mm input.
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8JW0/
  
  or
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B004LTEUDO/
  
  BOOM, you're done. It will drive those Polks just fine! I bought one just for fun and had it hooked up to both sets of my Polk floorstanding monitor 70's and monitor 60s and it had no problem!
  
  

The sound would go out and screen would black out for a second or 2 then come back on and it would be okay for a few minutes then repeat with the stock PS4 Pro cable. I switched to this cable from monoprice. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GCGKI3O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Haven't had any problems with the screen blacking out or sound issues. Another good cable I've heard people say works great is https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DI8A1NW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3L31F4KTJOMGN&coliid=I2N5CQDFP3Y2FI&psc=1

It sucks that Sony cheaped out on the cable but I'm just happy it's working correctly now.

I've had great luck with my Mediabridge cable, purchased from Amazon 2-3 years ago. It lives in my car, gets constantly pinched by the lid to my center console, and has never once crapped out. It's got pretty sturdy construction and I honestly don't know how you could destroy this.

After some more looking around I think that i have settled on getting this tv, Focusrite, digital from tv to focusrite, and these cables to the JBLs. I believe this will be a pretty solid setup, I made sure the tv is compatible and has the digital out. Unless anyone has other options or input that would be better I think ill be set with this. Based heavily on this review on amazon.

edit: after some more looking around im wondering if its worth getting the focusrite 2i2 for balanced outputs

Okay... so I just need to repeat these are probably not the best options... #1 is probably the worst option and may or may not work... and I can't guarantee you will get the best sound quality out of either but here ya go:

(1) If you only have a 1/4 or 1/8 out, you can run a cable with two male connectors from the stereo to your computer's mic input. They would either be a 1/4 to 1/8 cable or a 1/8 to 1/8 cable.

(2) For RCA output, you can a RCA to 1/8 cable into the computer mic input or run a regular RCA cord with this RCA to 1/8 adapter.

None of this is ideal, but for under $10 it might be worth giving it a try and messing around with it if you have the time and patience. Hope this helps. If none of this works... sorry...

HDMI cables only support up to 60Hz, only DVI and DP do 144Hz. I highly recommend DP's.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098HVZBE
This is probably the best one you can buy right now.

Yeah, monitor out jacks aren't going to provide significant power. Most monitors are self powered (have a built in amplifier) in fact.

Computer multimedia speakers will work, but I really feel like you'll be disappointed in and poorly served by their performance.

I'm sorry it doesn't save you much cabling, but the very least expensive but reasonable sound you can get would be an inexpensive tripath amp (Lepai 2020a+ can occasionally be found for ~20$) and a pair of inexpensive speakers, like the Dayton B652-airs (around 60$, sometimes a little less).

Though I guess since you're legitimately considering a portable mono-speaker, you really won't mind, so I'll redeem my post by linking what I believe to be the kind of adapter need if you want to stick with the computer speakers: http://smile.amazon.com/Hosa-YMP-434-Female-8-Inch-Breakout/dp/B0010D0HO0

And here's the one that's best if you end up getting an amp: http://smile.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CPR203-Dual-Inch/dp/B000068O18

You'll need 2 or 3 things to do this cheaply.

Most importantly is an optical S/PDIF DAC, the Fiio D3 is among the cheapest and smallest packages available.

http://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420920775&sr=8-1&keywords=optical+DAC

That unit comes with the optical Toslink cable you'll need. You also need a stereo RCA cable. Length will depend on your setup, but you probably won't need anything long. Monoprice is a good inexpensive cable supplier.

http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-1-5ft-Premium-22AWG-Cable/dp/B003L1717K/ref=pd_sim_e_9?ie=UTF8&refRID=0D43HPKDVJ2NTMMRYPE0

Now some TVs use a mini-toslink jack for Digital Audio out, it'll have the same size connector as a ⅛" headphone connector. The standard toslink is a pentagon shaped connector usually with a shutter to protect it from dust. If you have the ⅛" mini-toslink you'll also need an adapter such as this, if you have standard the included cable with the Fiio will work.

http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-102671-Toslink-Female-Adapter/dp/B001V5HQAU/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1420921060&sr=1-2&keywords=mini-toslink

Just need your stamp of approval on this finalised list. I figured get more items and overhaul the whole desk audio setup instead of investing into one single thing.

• Micca MB42x + SA36 Pro2 + Behringer UCA202 + cables ~ Monoprice RCA-RCA + Sewell Banana plug wires (2 of those)
  
  
• SHP 9500 + V-Moda cable
  
  For a grand total of: $304.63 ~= $305
  Good to go?
  

I’ve been working on my display and wiring setup for a while now and I’m finally happy with it so I thought I would share it with r/mini. Any suggestions or comments would be greatly appreciated. This is one of my first posts so if I messed up, that’s why.

Links:

Ultragauge: http://www.ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/

Aluminum GPS Mount: http://www.cravenspeed.com/mini-gps-mounting-kits/

AUX in: http://www.minicarparts.net/Instructions/M3367_Instructions.cfm

Phone/ipod holder: http://amzn.com/B009GMKT0Y

Charging cable: http://amzn.com/B000EFVGV8

gold plated AUX cable: http://amzn.com/B004LTEUDO

Antenna: http://www.cravenspeed.com/products/The-Stubby-Antenna.html

Inverter: http://amzn.com/B004MDXS0U

Lights: I don’t remember exactly, but if someone want the link then I can look more. They were like $25 total.

It depends on the mixer, but generally the outputs on offer are XLR, 1/4", and RCA. I'm not sure if the H4N Pro is any different, but I'm fairly sure the XLR input on the H4N is a mic level input and you're better off connecting to the H4N with a 1/4" connector into the combo port. Buy a selection of cables that have XLR, 1/4", and RCA at one end and 1/4" at the other for your Zoom.

For example, and RCA cable to 1/4" might look like this.

This would give you two 1/4" connections to connect your Zoom and potentially have two different input levels, though from memory, the H4N has decent auto-levels.

When I first got my BenQ XL2730Z (144hz 1440p) monitor it flickered like that, like it kept dropping the signal for some reason. I did some research and people recommended getting a better quality DP cable, which I did and it fixed it, and it's been smooth sailing ever since. It's sad that the cable the monitor came with wasn't able to handle the highest resolution + highest refresh rate, but oh well. I'm just glad it works now.

http://www.displayport.org/cables/how-to-choose-a-displayport-cable-and-not-get-a-bad-one/

The DP cable I have now...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098HVZBE

I recently bought a new monitor, and from what I understand, DisplayPort cables that are packed with them aren't often high quality, which would explain some of the issues I'm having with Freesync (blurriness and discoloration when scrolling, mostly). I'm looking at the Accell cables that seem to be suggested by a lot of users on here, but I wanted to make sure that buying the DP 1.2 cables instead of the newer 1.4 cables would be fine. I'm using an RX 480, if that matters. Thanks!

The following works with the HMD+ with none of the audio screeching I had on the original Samsung. I have 20 hours VR play since the headset arrived from Microsoft last Friday.

Gigabyte X99 G1 USB 3.0 port to:
Cable Matters Active USB 3.0 Extension Cable (USB 3 Extension Cable/USB Extension Cable Male to Female) 16.4 Feet
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMFB5OK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
to
Sabrent 4-Port USB 3.0 Hub with Individual Power Switches and LEDs included 5V/2.5A power adapter (HB-UMP3)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TPMEOYM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
to Odyssey HMD+.

Nvidia 980 HDMI Port
to
AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to Female HDMI Extension Cable - 10 Feet
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
to Odyssey HMD+

The cable that comes with the Pro is actually not premium certified. It doesn't come with the QR code that verifies premium certification.

http://www.hdmi.org/manufacturer/premiumcable/Premium_HDMI_Cable_Certification_Program.aspx

It certainly may be good enough for most people, but unlike premium certified cables, it wasn't tested to guarantee full 4K bandwidth in every situation. So yes if you get signal dropout or it drops down from 4K to 1080p I'd recommend getting an actual premium certified cable, such as this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GCGKI3O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Gw18ybHCMF9NN

If you're able to use the full 10x10, I'd recommend hanging your headset cable from the ceiling with: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073P7GJNP/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You'll need to extend your headset cable which I can confirm these work perfectly for that:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XM1WE0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G9VOKIQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought a 5x1 4K switch just for this purpose and it's been great. That way I have a single input to my 4K tv, but can switch between the sources with the remote that comes with the switch.

This is the one I got:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WV5YJ6H

Make sure you get good high-speed HDMI cables for each connection, too:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GCGKI3O

​

Order a Monoprice certified premium high speed cable. It’s just over $6 for 6 ft. That’s long enough for most installations. There are better made cables out there but these are more than good enough.

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-115428-Certified-Premium-18Gbps/dp/B01GCGKI3O

They’re cheaper if you buy them from Monoprice but end up costing the same or more after tax and shipping especially if you have Amazon Prime. If you have Prime order from Amazon.

You could bind it elsewhere. I'd also recommend a left-hand gamepad, if you're having issues with your left hand cramping up. I'm using a Belkin Nostromo Speedpad n52 from over a decade ago, and it still feels great. Stops my wrist from crapping out on me. I know Belkin and Razer are still developing them. Check one out.

I have this sound bar, but the X900F tv, and both Dolby Vision and Atmos work with my AppleTV 4K so your setup should work. I’m using the AmazonBasics High-Speed 4K HDMI Cable.

Other than trying different cables, ensure that the cable plugged into the tv is going into a port that supports all features. On the X900F this is HDMI 3, it might be similar on the 950.

Edit: I should mention that I’m also using ARC and pass through on the sound bar (i.e. the same configuration that I believe you’re using).

You still got the AV cable that came with your PS3? The one that goes to yellow, white and red?

You'll need a female stereo RCA to female 3.5 mil. Something like this. (should be easy to find dirt cheap).

Connect your AV cable to the AV port, and connect the red and white cable to the red and white ends on the adaptor, and connect your headset's 3.5 mil to the adaptor. If needed, connect your headset to one of the USB ports for power. Then set your PS3 to output audio via the AV port. You can still output video seperatly via HDMI or whatever. If your headset is smart, it'll even mix the game audio and chat audio together, and you'll get the proper PS3 headset experience.

Before you do this though, just double check that your TV/monitor doesn't have a 3.5 mil port you can use. A lot of them will pass whatever audio input out that port and silence the speakers when you connect something. That's probably easier.

I had to dust off the old Nostromo from my early WoW days.

I love being able to strafe/move with one finger using the thumbpad... plus there's enough keybinds/combinations for anyone.

I love it. I personally have the black pair. Be prepared for that cable to break though. Here is a link to a good one just in case. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LTEUDO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is a good option to get DV at a good price. There is also a belkin cable food for DV. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GCGKI3O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
For best DV results, stuck to 2m/6ft cables.

Thanks for the help!

Anything like this or this would work then, I assume?

Hey n00b...hit me up when you're ready to step up your game. You haven't lived until you step up to a $13,500 AudioQuest Diamond braided HDMI cable, wrapped around some $12,500 Naturelle Plus Maxi Pads with Wings. Be sure to get the ones with wings, as they add flavor. Us "pros" call them "flavor wings".

You're not really a serious vaper until you've stepped up your vape game like the rest of us adults.

yes im doing this on my Turnigy 9x tx: https://www.reddit.com/r/Multicopter/comments/3kaul2/anyone_know_of_a_us_shop_that_sells_the_rc_usb/

All you need is a headphone cable plugged into your 9x(http://www.amazon.com/Premium-Auxiliary-Headphones-iPhones-Stereos/dp/B00R124LAK), and then into the mic/line-in port on your computer. And then some fancy, free software that converts that into a controller that simulators can use!

What does the adapter look like? I'm not sure what civilian plane jacks mean - do you mean the ones you plug into on regular flights for the in-seat entertainment?

If you can get another adapter to a stereo 1/4" plug, at $25 this would be in your price range with change:

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Ultra-Compact-4-Channel-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B000KIPT30/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1482162286&sr=8-4&keywords=headphone+amplifier

The stereo 1/4" plug would look like this (the one on top, the smaller one on the bottom is your regular headphone plug for scale): https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMS-110-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O36

You need an amp to run between passive (non self-powered) speakers and the output source (controller). You didn't specify the speakers, but I would imagine they are passive since they have 1/4" TS connections... usually active speakers (self powered) have XLR inputs and sometimes additionally, have RCA and a mic input.

If, somehow, your speakers are active you'll just need this cord or this adapter, but I really would expect you need an amp. Having no idea what speakers you have, but knowing the next question will probably be what amp should you get, I'll just go ahead and put this here: Behringer Inuke. This is a budget amp, but it does a fairly good job. I have one running some subs and have zero complaints. If you end up needing more power, just look for the bigger versions.

The JBL LSR305 expects line level inputs via balanced XLR or 1/4" TRS connector.

The SVS SB12-NSD expects line level inputs via stereo RCA connectors, and can pass through line-level and high-pass outputs via stereo RCA connectors.

The AT-LP60 has phono and line outs through stereo RCA connectors.

Your laptop probably has a 1/8" stereo TRS connector.

Working backwards from your JBL, you can use a stereo 1/4" TS to RCA cable to connect the speakers to the line or low-pass RCA outputs on the SVS. Check your JBL manual to ensure that a 1/4" TS cable will not cause issues in its TRS jack. An alternative is to use an RCA to TRS cable.

In order to switch your signal source between your computer and your turntable, you'll need an RCA source selector. You can also use stereo receiver or pre-amplifier with source selection.

In order to get your computer's audio output from its line out to the splitter or receiver, you'll need a 3.5mm to RCA splitter cable. That cable will also work for a Coaxial SPDIF digital signal if you go with a receiver, and both the receiver and computer support Coaxial SPDIF. Your computer and the receiver may also support a SPDIF over TOSLINK, for which you'll need a TOSLINK cable. Note that TOSLINK cables and jacks come in two physically incompatible connectors.

The turntable can plug directly into the source selector.

The above Amazon links are to examples of cables and devices you could use with the relevant connectors. You could spend a lot more or less on each cable or device with different brands, colors, etc.

The two I am looking at right now are this dell and this hp. I am swining more towards the dell, but the hp does come with 3 drives and has slightly better ram. I think I will still go with the dell since it has double the drive bays plus 2 psus vs one. But I do have a question: would they be using this power cable or the ones with horizontal prongs? Edit: it looks like dell takes the vertical ones that I listed

Have you tried to use Display Driver Uninstaller to remove and reinstall drivers? First thing you should do when you upgrade your GPU and have issues with video output.
https://www.wagnardsoft.com/

I run the coween adapter
a 10ft Amazon Basics High Speed HDMI Cable
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-Cable-1-Pack/dp/B014I8T0YQ?th=1
and an amazon basics 10ft USB 3.0 Extension (not active) plugged into my front USB 3.0 port to get rid of the static.
All goes well.
GPU: EVGA 1080 FTW Hybrid.

Sorry for pic quality! There's a light in the way XD. I used a 10ft cable extension, command strip hooks, zip ties, and a dog leash to make my Oculus cord retractable!

Purchased items(US):

• Dog leash (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LCECNES/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• command strips (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0084M696K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• 10ft passive HDMI (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8T0YQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• HDMI repeater (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GHL72XS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• 10ft usb3.0 cable (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  Total: ~40$
  
  

In theory most cables will work, but if something is slightly out of tolerance high refresh/resolution can be problematic.

If you want a high-quality AV grade cable I recommend Accell: https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B142C-007B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Locking/dp/B0098HVZBE/

Comprehensive is good too: https://www.amazon.com/Comprehensive-Cable-DISP-HD-3ST-Standard-DisplayPort/dp/B006X0OBAQ/

1.) Buy some:

• cheap wall/ceiling mounts - https://www.amazon.co.uk/sourcingmap-Metal-Bracket-Security-Camera/dp/B00UVCKZZ2/ref=pd_sim_107_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YWPFSDBSZ19JTXY8JFYZ
  
  
• and extension cables - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• or https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 if you need something longer.
  
  
• Mount sensors to the ceiling.
  
  
• Profit.
  
  You might want to extend Rift's cables. I use:
  
  
• amazon basic 3 meter USB 3.0 extender -
  https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• amazon basic 3 meter HDMI extender - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• cable management system - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06XT2XLZ5 (thank you, u/Mugendon! - https://www.reddit.com/r/oculus/comments/65ibit/finally_an_out_of_the_box_working_oculus_rift/)
  
  
  2.) My Rift lays on the table. I cover it with a towel (with a moomin on it xD)

Edit: Not sure if these support 144hz properly, but works for 60hz. If anyone knows, please chime in.

Edit2: After some research, you need an active adapter, which are very pricey for proper 144hz output.

https://www.amazon.com/BuyCheapCables%C2%AE-Plated-Quality-DisplayPort-DVI-D/dp/B00H8CAOYK/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1466162692&sr=1-3&keywords=dual+dvi+to+displayport

The SMSL M3 is a good, clean DAC. Warmer & brighter sound than the FiiO E10k, and with RCA full line out instead of 3.5mm, it makes connecting to a speaker amp a breeze. I have it running entirely on USB input right now, volume at 50%, front 1/4" output running to the LyxPro 4-channel headphone amp you see there & back output going to the SA60. My only gripe with the M3 is that its front output is controlled by an analog volume knob, which means enough turning and you'll get channel imbalance eventually. To avoid this, I use the LyxPro 100% of the time when using headphones, as it's much cheaper to replace and doesn't degrade audio quality as far as I can tell (just dulls the highs a little, a personal plus).

The SMSL SA60 is great, powers my Micca MB42s (unpowered speakers, of course) very nicely. As far as I can tell, it's nice and clean, and has enough features for most users. Bear in mind this does not have a sub out, so in my opinion it's best for light setups like the one you see pictured (2.0 setups, as opposed to 2.1 setups).

Things I like about the SA60:

• Bass boost (called "volume compensation" or something, if I remember correctly) can be enabled by pressing in on the volume knob, turning even bass-light music into wubby goodness.
  
• The volume knob is digital, meaning no channel imbalance. It remembers your volume when the unit is powered off as well (by pressing the Input button once).
  
• The banana plugs I have in the back are secured very tightly, as well as the RCA cables I use. One less thing to worry about.
  
  Things I dislike about the SA60:
  
• When plugging it in, it may spark. Just Chinese manufacturing, I suppose. I plugged mine into its power strip first then the unit (sparked at the unit), and has been running fine since.
  
• The front input (switched by holding the Input button to the left of it) hugs cables tightly. You have to hold onto the unit and tug before the cable comes out. To circumvent this, I have that right-angle connector in there instead, which easily rotates in the port and cables can plug in/out of that easily. Adapter found here.
  
  My headphone cable of choice is this 1/4" to 3.5mm cable by Hosa (the 3ft version). No gold plating, but the quality is comparable to other high-end 3.5mm cables (I've compared it to this Anker cable, for example). I have a personal vendetta against adapters, which is why I use this cable and not a 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable with adapter -- I like my sound to be as clean as I can get it, and adapters only run the risk of degrading that AND adding more points of failure should something go wrong. The only adapter I use is the one connecting my M3 to the LyxPro, as for some reason its TRS input switches left and right channels… but not the RCA input. The TRS cable I use is very high quality, and the RCA adapter has gold plating on either end, so hopefully it should be fine. I haven't noticed any quality loss when using it.

Better to eat diamonds than buy Diamond HDMI Cables that cost more than 4 top of the line laptops, a top of the line desktop, and all the peripherals combined.

Oooopsies, I think I may have accidentally exposed a few people to a new magnitude of stupidity separate from TiA norms. Well hey, at least these reviews are funny.

Amazon Basics do huge HDMI cables and they work great.
Standard
Braided
Both under $10.
I run a Pro with 4K HDR with one of these.

Hey, so I looked into it a bit more to try to remember how I had everything set up when I was using my monitor. All the digital video converters I am seeing online are more expensive than I remember them being.

Anyway, this is the one that I got. Of course vga only puts out the video, so you need something else to get your sound going. For the sound part, I used something like this. One side accepts the SNES red/white cables and the other I plugged my computer speakers into whenever I played my SNES.


You may be able to find video converters cheaper than the one I linked but I didn't look very much this time around to see. Let me know if you have any luck.

Just return the monitor, or get a different 1080 Ti. In order to achieve the 144hz on your monitor, you're going to need a TRUE Active Displayport to DVI-D converter. That shit is not cheap and for the cost difference, you could get a better monitor.

If you do decide to keep both, this is what you're gonna need. I think you're better off returning the monitor though and investing those funds into a newer model with DP.

https://www.amazon.com/Accell-UltraAV-B087B-002B-DisplayPort-Dual-Link/dp/B002ISVI3U

Yeah this is normal I have the Same one does the same thing for me...

your best bet for Converting to HDMI and Upscaleing are these 2 items or just get a Used Wii U since it plays Wii Games in 1080p.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VJ9RP6/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003L14Y9I/

Okay, just making sure. All hdmi cables are pretty much the same as far as personal use goes. Unless something broken with the cable, it won't affect performance.

And this is the super crazy expensive HDMI cable on Amazon (I guess they felt that stretching it to 16m was worth the extra $15,000) : http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1415383294&sr=8-2&keywords=diamond+hdmi

It really depends what you are connecting to. The newer GoPros ONLY record audio through the USB interface. That makes it pretty much impossible unless you buy an expensive cable. If no GoPro or an older GoPro you can use any cable like this...

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CMS110-inch-Adapter/dp/B000068O36/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449143682&sr=8-1&keywords=3mm+to+1%2F4+inch+adapter

I also suggest getting a splitter if you don't want to take up a jack just for audio recording. It will allow you to plug in a headset along with it.

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YPP118-Dual-Female-Cable/dp/B000068O56/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449143815&sr=8-1&keywords=1%2F4+splitter

All in all yes its very cheap. The link Haykinson posted is a little overpriced although it contains everything you need.

Get yourself a nice little Amp like an SMSL SA-50, a 3.5mm aux cable to connect your TV's headphone out to the amp, and some 16 gauge speaker wire to connect amp to speakers. Bob's your uncle.

IF money is type, you can go with a cheaper amp, but the first one I mentioned is nicer unit that you can keep when you upgrade to a TV with an optical out.

Get rid of those cables- they are garbage. The ones that i used are these:
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-1-5ft-Premium-22AWG-Cable/dp/B003L1717K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1499780378&sr=8-3&keywords=monoprice+rca

Of course choose the proper length. With these i have zero noise n my table. I tried swapping in the original cables and its atrocious. These cables are super cheap and well insulated/shielded. This would be the first thing i would do in your case.

I'd recommend looking for a component to HDMI adapter instead of buying a new display. Plus Monitor are generally better than TVs especially when using a PC.

I just found one https://www.amazon.com/Portta-N3CVRHP-Component-Converter-support/dp/B003VJ9RP6

hope this helps.

While these cables are impressive, they are just cheap knock off's of the original.

You want quality, you go with AudioQuest. Diamond infused HDMI cables are where it's at.

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ

I know most people are saying any modern HDMI cable will work, but this is not entirely correct.


There was a test done that I’ll have to look up regarding HDMI cables ability to transmit full 4K and HDR content. Only a few of like 20 cables were able to consistently deliver the content correctly, even though all advertised they could.


I’ve had issues trying to get full 4K HDR content to work correctly on both my appletv and Xbox One x. After going through a dozen or so different “high speed” cable brands that all promised 18gbps and HDR compatibility, the only ones I found to consistently work were the Monoprice premium cables. Interestingly, this was also consistent with the previously mentioned results.


My other cables would work intermittently and drop out, leading to some major issues trying to figure out what was wrong. After hours of messing around and them buying a ton of cables, I came to this conclusion.


My suggestion, buy this cable either through amazon or monoprice.com and be done with it:
Monoprice Certified Premium HDMI Cable: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GCGKI3O?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

the Power cord for the PC is generic. Check the shape of the plug on your power supply and make sure its this kind:

https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-Universal-IEC320C13-Compliant/dp/B00005113L/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524500651&sr=8-3&keywords=atx+power+cord

You can find these cables for $5-10 at pretty much any electronics store or online retailers

(very high wattage power supplies, usually 1000w or higher sometimes have their own special power cords, so make sure to check the shape of the plug)

Hahahaha dirty peasant,

My [diamond coated HDMI Cable] (http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Ethernet-Connection-meters/dp/B003CT2A6I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1376520150&sr=8-2&keywords=diamond+hdmi) has greatly enhanced my tv experience! It's amazing how vivid the picture looks. I mean it's so crystal clear that I actually jumped into my tv like mario does in Super mario 64. Next thing you know im in the middle of the Gobi desert being chased by Mongolian death worms. Luckily I managed to catch a breath of air and called out to my Diamond HDMI Cable. The cable in all it's magnificent Diamond Coated glory killed the Death worms with ease and pulled me out of the tv and back into my living room. I'm telling you these cables are worth it, I can't wait for Call of Puppies, I mean call of duty ghost to come out. Then I can finally live my dream of running around with a bunch of dogs, shooting down terrorist.

Hard. Like the diamonds used in the best HDMI cable ever! Only $13499.75! Shipping only $3.99! Get yours now at https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ

You really want to use a braided diamond filament HDMI cable or you're going to get a serious bottleneck in your cognitive transmission. Trust me, these are a real solid value for the money, although if you really want to cut down on the latency you're going to have to go with something a little more high end.

My booting issue is that it crashes the second before I reach my desktop, like it becomes completely unresponsive and the image is frozen. It crashes at exact the same point every single time.
I can give it a try though, will have find out how to make that work.

The displayport that was provided with the monitor is a 1.2 I think, pretty sure it is exactly this model: https://www.amazon.com/Accell-DisplayPort-Cable-Locking-Latches/dp/B0098HVZBE/

Purchasing an extra sensor comes with a Monoprice USB extension cable, but other than that, These worked for me:

Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Active Extension Cable 5 Meters/16.4 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMFB5OK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_Fw8SCFQE4HwKp

Cable Matters 2-Pack High Speed HDMI Extension Cable with Ethernet 10 Feet - 3D and 4K Resolution Ready https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJ517VI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_n4vo6UArwEca1

Thank you!

So it looks like something like this is what I'm looking for:

https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-03134-Universal-IEC320C13/dp/B00005113L/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1485910814&sr=8-2&keywords=pc%2Bpower%2Bsupply%2Bcable&th=1

I'll give this a try and update.

Most hdmi cables can’t support that so I would recommend getting another display port here is the one that I use and works great while still being relatively cheap
ivanky DisplayPort Cable 6.6ft DP Cable Nylon Braided [2K@165Hz, 2K@144Hz, 4K@60Hz] Display Port Cable High Speed DisplayPort to DisplayPort Cable Compatible PC, Laptop, TV - Slim Aluminum Shell, Grey https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078HVDMW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nOjqDbV5PKJQA

That's because high speed cables have at minimum 10.2 gbps bandwidth (this is the full bandwidth of the old HDMI 1.4 spec) and are not capable of the full 18gbps bandwidth of the HDMI 2.0 spec, required for 4k60.
Just like the port on your TV and on your source device need to be "4k60" the cable does as well.

When buying HDMI cables always look for the two keywords before buying:
18gbps (18 gigabytes per second), and 4k@60 (or just 4k60).
If you want to be extra sure, HDMI has a certification program, and cables that have passed are marketed as "Premium High Speed HDMI Cable". These certified cable will be able to handle everything that HDMI 2.0 could possibly throw at them. More on that, including how to ensure you are buying a genuine cable that was actually certified, here: https://www.hdmi.org/manufacturer/premiumcable/faq.aspx
Even if you are buying a certified cable still make sure it has the two keywords 18gbps and 4k@60.
These certified cables aren't even expensive, for example here is a 6ft monoprice premium certified cable i found with a 30 second Amazon search for $5.
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-115428-Certified-Premium-18Gbps/dp/B01GCGKI3O/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1543465057&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=premium+high+speed+hdmi+cable&dpPl=1&dpID=31vnewgtCfL&ref=plSrch

You can skip the rest of this comment if you want, it's just about why you should never buy expensive HDMI cables, bandwidth is only thing that matters.

(And by the way expensive HDMI cables are stupid. Since it's an error corrected digital signal, if you are getting a picture at all it is identical to what the source device sent out, same with audio. Bandwidth (18 gbps!) is the only thing that actually matters when buying HDMI cable, as that will dictate what features you can send down the cable (4k60, HDR, ect.) And if the cable actually gives you a picture and audio at all, rest assured it is bit for bit identical to what the source device sent. (Although there is an EXTREMELY RARE and EXTREMELY OBVIOUS issue, occasionally seen in cheap or damaged cables, that causes many pixels to be pure 255,255,255 white. You'd know if this was happening. If it looks normal, it's bit perfect signal.
And there is no audio version of this, if there is any issue with the audio at all it will not be played and you will hear nothing.
So don't let anyone tell you that more expensive HDMI cables have superior picture or audio, it's not true, the bandwidth is the only thing that will actually affect anything.)

Sorry for any typographical errors, I typed all this on a Razer Phone 2.

So that speaker system has 3 inputs: 1 RCA (red/white) and 2 headphone jack. With your three devices, assuming your TV has no audio out, you can connect each device via RCA cable, headphone cable, or an adapter for one to the other, to those three inputs on the speaker system, for your cheapest possible solution. So a mix of these cables should do, hopefully? Let us know what you think:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00NO73MUQ/ref=zg_bs_597566_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=77XCX74SBHRRD7D85Q1V

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105597-3-Feet-Premium-Stereo/dp/B0094A1F3S/ref=zg_bs_597566_6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=77XCX74SBHRRD7D85Q1V

https://www.amazon.com/MOCREO-Splitter-1-Mini-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B015J4OKZW/ref=zg_bs_597546_11?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2Q1JZS2CEWWGYGWWCR6R

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-1-5ft-Premium-22AWG-Cable/dp/B003L1717K/ref=zg_bs_597546_19?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2Q1JZS2CEWWGYGWWCR6R

EDIT: and here's some extensions also, in case you grab any of the above and they're too short:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Female-Stereo-Audio/dp/B01CNAUYBY/ref=sr_1_3?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1481742465&sr=1-3&keywords=headphone+extension

https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesale-6-Feet-Cblwhl-Extension-10R1-02206/dp/B000I1GZ0U/ref=sr_1_1?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1481742502&sr=1-1&keywords=rca+extension

EDIT 2: Can you send us the brand/model # of your TV so we can check out the inputs/outputs? Thanks!

I know it’s sucks on Nintendo’s part, but luckily Amazon basics solve so many of these issues cheaply:

AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable, 10 Feet, 1-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014I8T0YQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4CW4Bb68B25H6

But maybe it is not a Noobish binding setup. You don't know what hardware he/she is using. Back when I played WOW I used a Nostromo Speedpad and bound all the numbered keys to the keys around what would be WASD. My main spells (Fire Mage)1,2,3,4,5 were bound to the D-pad and that big orange button.

Then you'll need active Displayport to DVI-D adapters, two of them, that support 144Hz at 1080p.

I have this one, I haven't found a cheaper one that supports 144Hz.

https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-002B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Dual-Link/dp/B002ISVI3U/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1481571274&sr=8-4&keywords=dvi+displayport+144hz

Yes there are component to HDMI converters, like this one:

Portta PETRHP V1.3 Component RGB Plus R/L to HDMI Converter Support 1080p for DVD PS3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VJ9RP6/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_6YNGub1BPK617

This is the one I use. Works great. I got lucky and got it for about about $10 on eBay though. https://www.amazon.com/Portta-N3CVRHP-Component-Converter-support/dp/B003VJ9RP6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1521116497&sr=1-1&keywords=portta+component+to+hdmi&dpID=41mr9xhIDBL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Ah I see what you're saying. Xbox One HS an option to play to both headphones and TV speakers. If PS4 doesn't have that option (an assumption on my part, I apologize), then a splitter is what you need. This one will do. You'll also need a 3.5mm cable. These are not brand recommendations, but will give you an idea with how the setup would work. Make sure the headphone splitter supports voice.

The Ivanky one on amazon has great reviews and has served me well for the past few weeks that I've had it. It also comes with a lifetime warranty, which I was informed of by email after the package arrived.
https://www.amazon.com/ivanky-DisplayPort-Braided-Display-Compatible/dp/B078HVDMW2

It will work fine in that configuration, the card can drive 2 different things at different refresh rates and resolutions without issue. Get a good DP cable though like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B142C-007B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Locking/dp/B0098HVZBE

Dell makes expensive shit. It looks nice ad works but I feel its overpriced for what it is. I have 2 Dell monitors here and I love the aesthetics but they aren't worth what I paid for them IMO. Don't know about AOC.

I did some pretty extensive research when trying to find a way to transmit audio from 2 separate sources into a single bluetooth headset without interruption... Plenty of headsets connect to multiple sources simultaneously, but none will play audio from 2 sources at once. I ended up having to kludge together three things to make this happen:


BT Receiver/Transmitter
3.5mm Splitter
2x 3.5 mm cables


I'm not sure if this would help you... Maybe each of you carry a similar bluetooth receiver/transmitter connected to some standard 3.5mm headphones. Or, a combination of a couple of the receiver transmitters... But that's a lot to carry on a run...


Bottom line, I was kinda shocked to see the lack of multi-device implementations with bluetooth in 2018. I feel like there should be more of a variety for this type of thing..


Now, after reading your post, I did a quick search for a 'bluetooth splitter' and came across this. Looks like it only works with iphone...


BT Splitter


Hope any of this conglomerate of info helps you.

Thanks so would something like this displayport work fine for me?

I have a set of Logitech speakers as well with this set-up. Search eBay for USB 5.1 and you'll find what you need to use it with a computer that plugs into a standard USB port. If you are using an iPod or other similar device, you can use the green plug and it work great as stereo speakers (some can combine front and rear to get a "surround" sound, YMMV.) If you are using it for your TV/video game, you'll need an RCA to 3.5mm converter...which has also been posted in this thread...hope this helps!

Yeah unlike many other cables, Display Port cables can be pretty sensitive, and quality matters. Get the shortest cable length and highest quality you can. Accel cables are the most highly recommended. This is the one I have https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0098HVZBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qVaGzb5NG3HRX

Most PCs have a 3.5mm microphone input like this, and it looks like the Nintendo Switch has a 3.5mm audio jack, so you should be able to connect the two with any 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable, like this.

You'll have to go into the audio mixer/sound settings on your computer (I think this is done by right clicking the volume icon in the bottom right of the task bar) and configure the audio input (coming from the Nintendo Switch) so it will be played back live.

I suggest using the volume buttons on the Switch to turn it's volume down very low at first, then slowly increasing it until it's loud enough. It shouldn't have to be turned up very much, because the audio input is meant for a low power microphone.

Then, you should be able to plug your headset's usb connector into your computer and have audio from both the computer and Nintendo Switch played through your headset.

You will need one of these cables

A little pricey but you will have the best AD4K experience.

One example of some pretty good trolling on Amazon are the reviews for Amazon's most expensive HDMI cable.

> I later find out from very very few sources that it requires phantom power to operate

This is not true at all. Phantom Power is only used with Condenser Microphones operating between 9 and 48 Volt. The ModMic 4 is rated at a maximum operating Voltage of 1-10V and will work flawlessly with any high quality motherboard.

> Schiit Modi 2 and Magni 2

Are purely designed to output sound, they do not have the capability to accept microphone input. You cannot connect the ModMic.

What you should do:

• Get rid of of the ModMic 4
  
• Buy a Scarlet solo + ATH 2035
  
• Do not buy a Modi 2
  
• Connect the Line output of the solo to the Magni 2 via RCA
  
• ??????
  
• Profit

As kschange suggested. Something like this plugged into your phone and stereo aux port is probably best idea.

Have you tried a game pad? Something like https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-F8GFPC100-Nostromo-Speedpad-n52/dp/B0000DC643. I have it and love it. Thumb rests on the arrows for movement and you've got all those keys resting under your fingers to bind to your quick bars.

You need to get an [AudioQuest Diamond Braided HDMI Cable] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=s9_dcacsd_dcoop_bw_c_x_1_w). And get a long one so you can move your printer around. Free shipping on Amazon!

It's unlikely Hsu would put his subs on sale. They're what he's known for. You can call and ask him. He answers his own phone, and he's a really nice guy. He might even cut you a deal, if you're buying a sub and bookshelves together. He might not, too. But, hey...might as well ask!

So you're using your phone? If you're using your phone as a source, connecting through bluetooth to your integrated amp or amp/DAC combo, then you won't need anything else. I believe the Elac integrated amp has full bluetooth support. The Emotiva TA-100 has the firmware to support bluetooth, but you have to buy a dongle for it...so, there's another $15 or so.

That should be all you need, though, to get started. There's no end to the money you can spend on audio equipment, once you've decided to develop the habit. But to make music, all you need is something to take the signal from your phone and turn it into an analog signal, something to amplify that analog signal, and something to turn the analog signal into sound.

Oh, you'll need speaker wire. At least 16 gauge...lower numbers mean thicker wire, which means better transmission, generally. But don't go crazy with super-expensive speaker wire. And you'll need a cable to run from your pre-amp out to your subwoofer.

https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-16AWG-Speaker-Plated-Banana/dp/B00I52I2PU

You'll need 2 of those.

https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Subwoofer-Cable-Feet/dp/B003FVYXY0

You'll need one of those.