Reddit mentions: The best body repair upholstery & trim tools
We found 138 Reddit comments discussing the best body repair upholstery & trim tools. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 40 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. KLTECH 4Pcs Auto Door Clip Panel Trim Removal Tool Kits for Car Dash Radio Audio Installer Pry Tool
- Unique design allows access under trim to remove piece correctly--at the fastener point
- Versatile tool set that pays for itself with just one use; saves time and frustration
- Professional-grade kit of 4 incredibly useful tools for removing auto body trim and molding
- Easily remove Trim, Molding, Door panels and Dashboards.
- Works on interior and exterior trim, wide edge remover, narrow edge remover, pull-type remover, handle remover and upholstery clip remover
Features:
Specs:
Color | orange |
Weight | 0.26 Pounds |
Size | 9.2 x 1.6 x 1 inches |
2. Tresalto Auto Trim Removal Tool Set [Non Marring and No Scratch] Auto Trim Kit for Easy Removal of Car Door Panels, Fasteners, Molding, Dashboards and Wheel Hubs, 5 PCS
- SLEEK AND DURABLE SET - Our premium grade Auto Trim Removal Tools fits in any crevices and works excellent in removing exterior & interior trim, molding, wheel hubs, door panels, fasteners, dashboards, and more without scratching or damaging your car.
- UNIVERSAL AUTO TRIM REMOVAL TOOLS - It includes 5 job specific auto trim removal tools to make internal and external automotive removals easy. It is designed with care to be universally applicable to vehicles, boats, RVs and more so you can make repairs and maintenance with ease while also protecting the aesthetic of your car with its sleek design.
- UNIQUE ERGONOMIC DESIGN - Made of sturdy and pliable nylon material with a unique ergonomic design that enables the tools to be easily handled to effectively save effort and time while working on laborious repair or maintenance tasks.
- EASY & CONVENIENT - Perfect for professionals and beginners doing any care modifications. It's also compact in size which makes it easy and convenient to carry or stash in your car so you can use it anytime, anywhere.
- 100% SATISFACTION GUARANTEE - We are confident you'd love these tools as much as we do! Get yours now and perform repair or maintenance tasks like a pro!
Features:
Specs:
Color | Blue |
Size | 5 Pack |
3. GOOACC Car Door Clip Panel Audio Video Dashboard Dismantle Kits Installer Pry Tool-4PCS
SAFE AND EFFECTIVE----For removing dashboard, door, and other panels from your car, there's no substitute for the right tools. This professional-grade kit will let you do the job efficiently without gouging and marring.INSTALLATION ASSISTANT----Perfect for do-it-yourselfers, mechanics, and audio tec...
Specs:
Height | 5.12 Inches |
Length | 7.48 Inches |
Weight | 0.04 Pounds |
Width | 0.79 Inches |
Release date | July 2018 |
Size | 4PCS Trim Removal Tool |
Number of items | 1 |
4. Lisle 35260 Plastic Fastener Remover
Removes Plastic Hold-Down Fasteners.This tool quickly removes various types of plastic fasteners that hold on weather stripping, radiator shrouds, fender linings, air dams and other plastic or rubber partsThe tool is equipped with a sliding urethane button for use when extra leverage is necessary
Specs:
Color | Factory |
Height | 0.9 Inches |
Length | 10.5 Inches |
Weight | 0.19 Pounds |
Width | 3.6 Inches |
Size | One Size |
Number of items | 1 |
5. SunplusTrade 11Pc Auto Trim Door Panel Window Molding Upholstery Fastener Clip Removal Tool Kit
- 11 Piece Auto Trim Removal Kit. Made Of High Quality Nylon Fiber That Will Not Break Or Bend Easily Like Abs Plastic Under Pressure.
- Universal Application For All Makes And Models Of Cars, Boats, And RVs.
- Comes With Thick Sturdy Pouch To Store All Of Your Tools After Use.
- Variety Of Shapes And Sizes For Hard To Reach Areas.
- Perfect For Installing Or Removing Stereo System, Door Panels, Moldings, Window Trims, Clips, Or Any Plastic Piece In Your Car Without Damaging The Car Like Metal Tools.
Features:
6. GLISTON 5pcs Auto Trim Removal Tool Car Pry Tool Kit, Door Panel Clip Removal Set for Vehicle Dash Radio Audio Installer
- MULTIPLE USE: 5 different kinds of trimming tools, excellent for trimming car audio/radio, door panel, window, interior accessories or even for bicycle tire removing
- Different sizes for chose:With 5x Plastic Panel Removal Tool, enough options to work on multiple cars internal.
- Long-time usage: Made of super durable plastic material , it has excellent abrasion resistance ,withstands fatigue resistance and high temperature even at high temperatures ,creep resistance.
- Protect your car: Don’t have to worry about damaging your paint finish as these clips are made to be gentle on surfaces unlike metal clips remover that cause scratch on surface.
- 100% SATISFACTION SERVICE: Any reason you are not completely satisfied after receiving our Clip Plier Set ,please contact our Amazon Prime Service Customer Support line and we'll offer you a free replacement or a full refund.
Features:
Specs:
Color | blue |
7. MICTUNING 8PCS Auto Trim Removal Tool Set for Car Audio Dash Door Panel Window Molding Fastener Remover Tool Kit
[A Good Helper for Car Trimming] 7 different kinds of trimming tools combination set with 1 Fastener Remover, great for car audio/radio system installing or removing, door panel, moldings, window trims or automotive interior repairing and furniture restoration[Ergonomic Design for Improving Efficien...
Specs:
Color | Red - 8Pcs |
Height | 2 Inches |
Length | 8 Inches |
Weight | 0.75 Pounds |
Width | 6 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
8. Anyyion Auto Panels Trim Removal Tool for Door Panel Removal Tools
- 【 Anyyion Paintless Dent Repair Kit】The perfect professional high-end simple suit of car repair tools for your life brings more fun.Completely Paintless Dent Removal, it’s environment friendly and will not heart the original painting of your car.
- 【 So Easy To Operate】Tools coming with detailed repair steps introduction for operate, it make the dent removal process so easy. These Car Tools not only good for professional auto repair people using in shop , but also suitable for family people DIY paintless dent repair.
- 【Save Your Money & Time】 It’s is so portable ! Most of the dents can be removed within half hour by these tools, You can use them in any time and any where, never no need pay much dollar each time in automotive repair shops. Car Tools do save your money & time.
- 【Product list】1 pcs Glue Gun;1 pcs Gold Dent Lifter; 10 pcs Glue Sticks(Yellow*5,Black*5);1 pcs Rubber hammer;5 pcs Black Pen;1 pcs Clean Cloths;5 Clip Removal Tool;24 pcs Glue Tabs ;2 pcs Mini Bag; 1pcs Alcohol Bottle (emptoy);2 pcs Plastic shovel ;1 pcs Tool Box(Length:13.8x6.7x7.0in).
- 【Amazon Returns Guarantee】 You will enjoy professional service center, 30-day full amount refunding, quality warranty and technical support. Excellent customer service brings you no worries after purchase. Please feel free to reach us if you have any question or dissatisfaction.
Features:
Specs:
Height | 1.181102361 Inches |
Length | 9.055118101 Inches |
Width | 5.118110231 Inches |
Size | 54 PCS |
9. ABN Premium Auto Trim Removal Tool Kit - 5Pc Pry Bar Set, Fastener Remover Trim Molding Interior Door Dash Panel Remover
TRIM REMOVAL AUTOMOTIVE TOOLS: The ABN Trim Puller Tool 5-Piece Car Tools Kit is an internal and external trim removal tool set that is a universal fit for all makes and models of vehicles, boats, and RVs; Use this plastic trim tool set to remove car emblems, plastic trim around windows and pads, do...
Specs:
Height | 4.8 Inches |
Length | 2.8 Inches |
Weight | 0.7 Pounds |
Width | 9 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
10. Anytime Tools 7 piece CAR DOOR PANEL TRIM & Windshield REMOVAL TOOL
- Remove auto DOOR PANELS and TRIMS quickly without damaging the connectors
- Designed to fit most makes and models. Soft comfort handles on the door panel removers.
- Square notch door panel remover, V notch door panel remover
- Curved V notch door panel remover, Window and Door handle remover, Trim pad remover
Features:
11. ABN Upholstery Trim Clip Removal Pliers
Upholstery Trim Clip Removal Pliers let you easily remove door upholstery, clips, door panel clips, and all other trim anchors and clipsSlides under most upholstery and other trim anchors quick and easy.Spring loaded design allows for great leverage while also allowing user to remove clips with a si...
Specs:
Height | 1.79921259659 Inches |
Length | 12.99999998674 Inches |
Weight | 0.5070632026 Pounds |
Width | 4.49999999541 Inches |
Size | 13 |
Number of items | 1 |
12. KINGLAKE Panel Removal Tool - 13 Pcs Auto Trim Upholstery Removal Kit Door Trim Molding Dash Panel Car Radio Door Clip Panel Auto Body Repair Window Molding Tools Fastener Remover +Bag
Auto trim removal tool made of strong plastic,will not brake or bent easily.Versatile tool set that pays for itself with just one use; saves time and frustrationEasily remove Trim, Molding, Door panels and Dashboards without causing any damageWorks on interior and exterior trim, wide edge remover, n...
Specs:
Color | Red |
Size | 13 Pcs |
13. uxcell Auto Blue Audio Dismantle Tool Set 4 in 1
- Longer One: 18.7 x 3 x 0.4cm/5.6" x 0.9" x 0.12" (L*W*T)
- Product Name : Car Dismantle Tool;Material : Hard Plastic;Color : Blue
- Size(Approx) : Shorter One: 14.4 x 1.4 x 0.4cm/4.3" x 0.4" x 0.12" (L*W*T),
- Weight : 96g
- Package Content : 4 x Car Dismantle Tool
Features:
14. homEdge Auto Trim Removal Kits of 12 Pcs, Tool Kits for Car Radio Installation, Upholstery Removal Kit Pry Bar Scraper Set-Red
- Unique design allows you to remove different kind of trims, makes your garage working easier and more efficient.
- Buy one set, got 12 pieces different kits.
- Made from sturdy materials, not easy to break.
- The kits are anti-scratch and will be well protect the panel / trim.
- Contents: 12 Pieces of Auto Trim Removal Tools
Features:
Specs:
Color | Red |
15. Liquid Leather Professional Dashboard Repair Kit
- Brand New in box. The product ships with all relevant accessories
Features:
16. MICTUNING 3 Pcs Clip Pliers Set & Fastener Remover - Auto Upholstery Combo Repair Kit with Storage Bag for Car Door Panel Dashboard
- 2in1 Clip Pliers - Only 1-2mm thickness of the plier head, easily slide into confined areas, suitable for many types of round and square clips, fasteners and plastic rivets
- Effective Effort Saving - Adopts Labor-saving Lever and Spring loaded design of the plier with 5.5" long handle, simply get all stubborn clips removed without damage, A Real Time and Effort Saver!
- Ergonomic Design - Poly Propylene Ethylene (PPE) handle, anti-skid and no grinding to hands, comfortable handheld for a breeze removal of staples, plastic bolts, door panels, dashboard and other upholstery
- Heavy Duty Durability - Made of No.65 Manganese Steel bar, it's much tougher than common carbon steel pliers, abrasion and corrosion resistant for long lasting durability
- Multiple Uses - It's not only great for automotive interior and exterior trimming work, but also can be used as a bike tire remover and pushpin puller, Bonus a washable canvas bag for easy storage
Features:
Specs:
Color | Red - 3Pcs Clip Pliers Set |
Height | 5.91 Inches |
Length | 14.17 Inches |
Weight | 0.925 Pounds |
Width | 1.38 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
17. GLISTON 45pcs Paintless Dent Repair Tool Dent Puller Kit, Adjustable Width, Pops a Dent Car Dent Removal Kit, Golden Lifter, Bridge Puller& Glue Gun for Automobile Body Motorcycle Refrigerator
- UPGRADE DESIGN: Compared to the old version paintless dent repair kit, the new dent lifter can adjust more 1 cm height and more 3.8cm width, some glue tabs have thicker and big diameter, it will more effective and durable to puller the dent. In addition, the unique arched bridge design eliminates the chance for additional damage.
- WIDELY USE: The pops a dent bridge kit with 5 different size tabs for dents, the dent lifter can choose 16 different size tabs. Dent pullers are ideal for car dent removal, hail damage dings removal. The tool great to work for the sheet metal processing of truck, automobile, refrigerator, motorcycle body, washing machine etc.(Tip:This tool not suitable for corners or creases)
- EASY to OPERATION: The paintless dent repair kit is suitable for any person to operate, even the girl can easily repair. Most of the dent remover can be finished in half an hour, it can save your much money and time, in addition, the auto body dent puller set can be used unlimited time.
- PERFECT TOOL: 1 hot glue gun, 10pcs strong stickiness hot melted glue sticks, 1 plastic bridge dent puller, 1 golden dent lifter, 5 pry Tool. Car dent removal kit accessories are very strong and durable because all of them was meticulously inspected and certified for Rockwell Hardness.
- SAFE& GREAT SERVICE: Glue gun built-in fuse and makes it safer. Dent pullers padded rubber feet won't damage at the original paint. All material without chemicals or toxic material. If any quality-related issues with the item, please contact our Amazon prime customer service and we'll offer you a free replacement or a full refund.
Features:
Specs:
Color | golden |
Height | 4 Inches |
Length | 9.6 Inches |
Width | 8.8 Inches |
18. American Standard 7680.210.002 Floor Mount Double Pedal Valve, Polished Chrome
Self-Closing Double Pedal ValveFloor-Mounted1/2-Inch Npt Rear Intlets
Specs:
Color | Chrome |
Height | 10.25 Inches |
Length | 6.75 Inches |
Weight | 0.01 Pounds |
Width | 1 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
19. Neiko 20596B Auto Trim Panel Upholstery Removal Tool Set, 5 Piece | Ergonomic Soft Grip Handles
Safely remove clips and fasteners that secure door panels and trim pieces without damage to panel or trimSVCM satin chrome plated steel shafts for durability and ergonomically shaped handle with soft-grip coating for ultimate comfortPivot point for appropriate leverage, preventing twisting that may ...
Specs:
Height | 1.97 Inches |
Length | 16.14 Inches |
Width | 5.31 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
20. SODIAL(R) Car Van Door Trim Clip Panel Glass Upholstery Removal Remover Fastener Tool
- Brand new and high quality.
- Quickly removes plastic fasteners from door panels of most foreign and domestic cars,trucks etc and will not scratch them.
- Chrome plated for durability.
- Square mechanic's vinyl handle for sure grip.
- Material: Environmentally friendly materials
Features:
🎓 Reddit experts on body repair upholstery & trim tools
The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where body repair upholstery & trim tools are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
I swapped the factory JBL radio/cassette/CD changer for this Sony double DIN unit which is less than $250. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_158XAV1000/Sony-XAV-AX1000.html?skipvs=T
This is a basic CarPlay unit with no CD drive, no standalone navigation (but you get navigation in Carplay mode), it has Sirius XM support but not built in (has a socket on the back to plug-in the extra Sirius doodad).
Works fine for me. I think any double-DIN Carplay radio would work fine though.
I like this one because it has USB, volume knob and aux on the front and it's good value.
You can pay more and get fancier ones from various makers with features like DVD/CD drive, standalone navigation, wireless Carplay, HD radio.
I used 2 Axxess boxes recommended by the Crutchfield website to connect to the JBL factory amp and the steering wheel controls. I'm not sure retaining factory amp was worthwhile, and you may not have one. It would have worked fine with radio's built-in amp I think. Keeping the steering wheel volume buttons is nice. There is also an adaptor box that does both JBL interface and wheel controls from another maker.
I got a Metra dash kit which slots it in the dash perfectly.
I installed the radio's supplied Sony microphone instead of the Toyota one for Bluetooth calls.
I added a Pioneer backup camera :
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130NDBC8/Pioneer-ND-BC8.html
The 2005 has a factory spot for a camera (because that was a Japanese option in 2005), so I put it there.
Initially I bought the head unit from Best Buy which meant they did free installation, but their installation was so bad that I do not recommend it. After one trip back to fix things they broke I realized that every time they fixed something they broke something else, so I finished the job myself.
Things Best Buy screwed up:
They installed the Sony mic nicely at windscreen top left, ran the cable to the radio, but forgot to plug it into the back of the radio. Doh! I had to take the whole dashboard apart to fix this.
They instlalled backup camera fixed to nothing, just hanging by cable pointing in roughly the right direction (I dremeled a groove for the camera cable in the original Toyota mounting plate which they had removed, glued plate back into place, attached camera to it properly).
They didn't reconnect the dashboard dimmer switch so dash lights could not be dimmed. I took the lower left dash apart and plugged it in.
They cracked two dash vent pieces. They paid for and replaced one but I later noticed they'd cracked the other and replaced it myself. This all required used parts from EBay.
They lost half the special flanged nuts that hold the hatchback handle piece on, which I noticed when it started to fall off (I got more from Toyota dealer for like $2 a nut. That's a lot for a few nuts but cheap for a repair.).
They lost various other dashboard nuts and bolts that I haven't replaced yet but dashboard is currently holding together.
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So in short, hire a competent radio installer or do it yourself carefully. Free installation isn't free, it turns out.
If you do any work yourself you will need a car trim removal kit like this one:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L8GHB7O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1. It has various tools to take dash panels off without damaging them. I found YouTube videos to help me take the dash apart and properly remount the camera.
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It was a pain but the end result works great. The Sony's Bluetooth is much better than the factory BT for phone calls. Now there's music streaming over Bluetooth too. Radio works fine. Backup camera is great, comes up on radio screen when you engage reverse. In Carplay mode (with iPhone plugged into USB) it does great navigation via choice of map apps, Podcast app works fine, Siri will read text messages to me, great music support.
Sure thing! It wasn't too difficult, just took some learning. I did a lot of watching tutorials on YouTube and mistakes were made. So first, the items I bought were viynl wrap and chrome edge trim. You don't have to do glossy black and silver chrome, but that's what I chose. A wood grain would look nice if you have a tan interior.
Vinyl: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007EEU58W/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Chrome trim: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0194BMZEY/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Also helpful! Trim pry tools: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00D7XNQHG/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
First, take a look on YouTube for videos on removing the radio, because that will tell you how to remove all the trim pieces. Make sure to be VERY careful, the plastic clips can break easily. For the side trim pieces, also look on YouTube or the internet on how to remove those. They'll do a much better job at explaining than I will!
Applying a wrap is fairly easy, it just takes patience and a little bit of skill. I recommend doing easy pieces first before more complex pieces like the vents and top center console panel (which was super hard!). Look on YouTube for tutorials on how to wrap, there are some great videos out there explaining the process. You'll need a heat gun or hair dryer if you want to really do a solid job, as well as a razor. For the vents, I trimmed around the small indent by the opening and carefully cut around the indentation by the wheel that opens and closes them. It's very tricky to do but if you're careful it will look pretty nice.
The Chrome edge trim is pretty easy to do, just shove it into any gaps that you want to line with trim. If you're careful with how much you use, that one pack should cover most of the car. Try not to go too excessive or it will look silly. Some panels will be really hard to force the trim into, so I recommend some sort of smooth tool like the butt of a screwdriver to press it into place.
All in all it took me about 2 days to do all the work, and I had to purchase a new piece of trim from a junkyard because I was careless. Don't rush it, take your time, and make sure you educate yourself as much as you can (YouTube videos/guides)
If you have any questions, let me know! Also, send me a picture of your car if you end up doing it, I'd love to see how it turns out!
As others have said don't mess with A/C. It's one for the professionals really.
I've recnetly started servicing/repairing my car (also a Civic - but an 04 plate). No experience. Just YouTube!
It hasn't taken much in tools. Some have just made life easier too (I bought a trolley jack for £50 for example - could have used the emergency one that came with the car). Axle stands are about £15. You can get cheaper but I wouldn't scrimp on safety. Mind you I made wheel chocks out of some fence posts I had and they work great.
So far I've done
I'd happily change brake discs and pads if they needed doing. Air filter was new, but could have just popped one in when I did the throttle body. Pollen filters are easy too. Would be a bit more nervous about changing the brake fluid though.
​
Main dealer service (just an inspection, oil and filter change and topping off washer liquid) is now £170 with a major service at a whopping £275 just for adding filters and brake fluid. You can get much cheaper at independents, but still save a packet doing it yourself.
I've paid for all the tools in year one in labour costs. An oil filter and oil change next year would only cost me about £30.
Just make sure you keep records of everything you've done.
If you want to spend a bit more on Honda parts these guys have been good
Yesterday I took some time and blacked out the chrome on my headlights and installed Diode Dynamics Switchback C-Lights on my 2015 Premium. I think it turned out pretty well, as you can see from the before / after photos above.
It was pretty warm out and - while I left the headlights in the sun for a while before opening them - I didn't bake them and thought they came apart fairly (10 minutes / side) easily. Overall, the job took about 5 hours and I'd rate it a 6/10 for difficulty.
Total cost came out to be about $155, Rallysport Direct had a 10% sale so I got the boards and retro-rubber for $150, and got a $5 can of matte black Krylon paint + primer at Lowes. I also purchased some Frog Tape but didn't end up using it.
Some thoughts...
I'm not a huge fan of the turn signal connectors on the LED boards. I would have preferred the wires to be about 12" longer, and I ended up stripping a section of my (blue) turn signal wire, soldering, and then taping them (would prefer heat shrink tubing, but it worked) instead of using the vampire taps.
I also didn't use the (i think) T-10 connector. I couldn't find anywhere in the headlights that I liked to mount the drivers, and there wasn't a good place to run the wires out, so instead I removed the socket from the light, cut / stripped / soldered the white and black wires to the driver to the red and black C-light wires. Then, I used VHB tape to stick the driver boxes to the back of the headlights, and sealed the holes with some extra retro-rubber.
I should have bought the DRL harness, because even though I disconnected my DRL resistor I couldn't confidently find the place to connect it to the new C-boards for DRLs. I'm not sure if I got a different / newer model of C lights than most sites describe, because the red wire went from the driver board to the LED board. I may buy that and connect it in the future.
It was a bit tricky putting the C-light diffuser back in over the LED boards. The little clips wanted to scratch the newly painted surface, and the LED boards didn't fit as nicely as I thought they would. I eventually got them together, but I had to take them apart and touch up once.
Fingers crossed on fogging. If I do get fogging, I have a few silica gel packets that I'm going to stuff in there for a day or two to see if that knocks down the moisture.
The stock silicon sealant is pretty gross, but cleans up easier than I expected. Regular soap washes it off, but Goo-Gone might not be a bad idea.
Pulling the bumper was pretty easy. About a dozen clips / screws, and it popped right off without too much trouble. I put a mover's blanked down (which really wasn't necessary - you aren't going to mess anything up on the bottom of the bumper) and had enough play that I didn't bother disconnecting the fog lights and turn signals.
Either have a helper, or something reflective enough that you can see the lights sitting in the car. You'll want to test all the light settings, turn signals / hazards, and test with the handbrake on and off.
I did everything myself and didn't feel like a helper would have made things any easier.
Having a set of body panel tools and spudger kit is invaluable, both for this job and in general. Just spend the $20, it'll pay for itself.
I did scare myself taking apart the headlights - I hadn't removed the stock bulbs in my c-lights, and one of them broke on me. Fortunately it didn't damage anything. Make sure you remove those c-light bulbs first if you want to avoid a sphincter tightening surprise.
If I were to do it again, I would probably get some frosting paint and paint the c-light diffusers. It looks good, but I think I would prefer the full C-light diffuser to appear a bit whiter and even out the light from the LED boards. If I end up taking them apart again I will probably do this.
I didn't replace my halogen bulbs - the extra $100 or so it would cost to switch to LEDs wasn't in my budget. I'll probably do that not too far down the line, but for now it looks fine with the orange halogens. Since I disconnected the high beam DRL resistor, it'll only matter at night anyways. I thought about doing an HID retrofit, but again - budget.
I didn't replace the amber side-marker covers with tinted ones. They darken up a bit when you paint the chrome under them, but I wouldn't mind having them a shade or two darker.
It looks pretty good, a very worthwhile mod for one person to do in 5 hours for ~$150.
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I've done it with a few monitors, pretty easy and I thought it was worth it. Granted, these were on the cheaper side (~$200ish), not sure how I'd feel doing this on an ASUS ROG or ACER Predator :)
Check youtube to see if you can find someone doing it with your model or manufacturer to help give an idea of where the connections are on the frame. I have a set of automotive tools used to remove interior trim (like this) and that worked great for getting under the plastic without fear of breaking anything.
I used Gorilla Tape to hold the back components to the display and then black duct tape around the edges to cover up the metal.
I play racing games mostly, so having a 10-12mm gap kinda took away from that experience. Now it's down to about 5mm with the way I have my sides overlapping my center panel. So for me, worth it.
One thing to watch for after removing the plastic cover and expose the metal in the back. When you set up your side panels, it's easy to scratch the panel of the center monitor if you're trying to get them overlap and close together. So just be careful there.
Best of luck!
I apologize in advance for this long post. None of these are "must gets", but they are what I got for my 2016 Premium forester. I'm posting this for my own future reference as well as to help some people who are wondering what accessories might be good for their new forester. I highly recommend ordering from Jackie from Annapolis Subaru @ 443-837-1422 as she can get you some good prices on the subaru accessories as well as WeatherTech products! I saved on WeatherTech shipping costs (~$20) by ordering through Jackie and the warranty is the same as if I had bought them through their website.
Please note that some of these accessory links are for my specific car year, model and configuration. I have a 2016 Premium forester without eyesight (affects the Covercraft/heatshield sunshade - they also have eyesight compatible sunshades!).
Also, I personally didn't get my windows tinted, but I think that is something that you should seriously consider doing :)
Speaker kit
Tweeter kit
WeatherTech DigitalFit floorliner (1st & 2nd row)
WeatherTech cargo/trunk liner (without bumper protector)
Weather Tech TechCare floorliner and floormat Cleaner/Protector Kit
Gorilla mud flaps
Covercraft's UVS100 sunscreen - use promo code FREESHIP
Exterior Auto Dimming Mirror w/ Approach Lighting
Luggage Compartment Cover (manual rear gate)
Rear bumper cover
Auto-Dimming Mirror with Compass and HomeLink
Rear Seat Back Protector
Two Home Depot 5 gallon homer bucket
Heatshield sunshade (driver/passenger, second row, rear windshield, sunroof) - note that their website only shows only one side window (driver/passenger), you need to call in to ask them to add the second row side window ones - on my invoice it says part #1425S-A and #1425S-B
Antigravity Batteries AG-XP-10 Multi-Function Power Supply and Jump Starter (check eBay to see if priced cheaper)
Viair 77P Portable Compressor Kit (check eBay to see if priced cheaper)
Amazon stuff:
EZ Pass Holder for VA Flex
Aux cable
Stickershield (parking stickers, etc)
Dropstop seat gap filler (driver/passenger side)
Door panel removal kit (for speaker kit install)
Two grit guards
Microfiber Drying towel
Microfiber cloths (3 pack)
Car wash shampoo
Wheel brush
Resqme (window breaker/seatbelt cutter)
Wheel cleaner
Microfiber wash mitt
Reindeer costume for Christmas
Headrest coat hanger
Road reflective triangles
Duct tape
Odor eliminator
Tire air pressure gauge
OBDII Scanner (Bluetooth)
First aid kit
Location: NC, USA
Device: Nexus 6P 64GB (White)
Approved: 9/27
Ordered: 9/27
Ships: 9/28
Shipped: 10/3
ETA: 9/29-10/2
New ETA: 10/5
Replacement: Pixel XL (128 GB, Very Silver)
Process: Google Support
Warranty: Out of warranty, within Nexus Protect (have replaced phone once over a year ago under NP)
Status: Shipped! (10/3)
Battery drain for me. I was going to replace it under under NP (would've been second replacement), but found this thread first. They first said "well your phone is out of warranty but fortunately is still covered by Nexus Protect" but I told them the phone had to only barely be out of warranty and I wasn't go to pay the $70 for a known problem other people were getting free replacements for (I didn't mention the Pixel). They were very nice and gave me the "one-time exception" for a 128GB Silver Pixel XL which the representative said was the only color left and 'looked very nice'. Obviously pleased with how it turned out - credit to Google for really going above and beyond to make this right in the end, even though there's a lot of headache in-between for many.
Only worry is that they'll be upset with the scratches my screen has (small, made by sand) or say something like "there's nothing wrong with your phone" if maybe the 4th factory reset before I send it in fixes it. That remains to be seen.
Note: To anyone with a bend in the casing around buttons, just buy something like this and press it back in. If you are really worried it'll scuff (didn't for me) just use a paper towel barrier. These are also super handy to just have anyways. I had a bend near the lock button and another one near the volume button. Obviously I wouldn't bother if it is going back to Google though.
It did. I had an issue where it wasn’t opening all the way after install but support was very responsive via WeChat. They sent me a software update file to load onto a micro SD and pop it in the control box and that fixed it in literally 5 seconds.
Regarding the physical installation, make sure you have everything you need if you’ve never done anything like this before. Get a set of trim removal tools and a fish tape to fish wire through. There’s cheap options on Amazon, you don’t need anything elaborate. You’ll need a metric socket set and a T45 Torx bit. My kit was missing one of the small T tap connectors so I ordered these T1 connectors which I ended up replacing the other two from the kit because I like these ones better.
I’m still not 100% sure how you’re supposed to get that wiring up through the rubber tube in the trunk. Mine got stuck half way and I had to make a cut to free it and wrap it back up in electrical tape. Taking the connectors off the end would be my best guess if I were going to try it again.
It’s quite the project, and you may find yourself launching tools across the garage at a couple points, but in the end it’s very cool. It really should’ve been included in the premium build of the car IMO, especially after you see how simple it would’ve been as a factory option.
Here’s a few pics
Crutchfield shows that you can indeed just buy a double DIN unit. I am not overly familiar with the car (even though I owned an older Grand Prix for a few months - I forget and I didn't do car audio in that one). I do not know what adapters you may or may not need as it depends on the car.
What I recommend is you buy one of the 3 standard known-good brands (Pioneer, Alpine, Kenwood) from www.crutchfield.com
Crutchfield is not a site that most of us order from because their prices are a bit higher than others. However, they generally include the accessories you need to install the gear for no additional charge. They also have a relatively good support department.
To do the installation, you can almost definitely find instructions, and most likely the only difficult part might be getting the dash trim off. The trim is often secured at least partially by clips which can be easy to break on some cars. I don't find radio trim clips to be as easy to break as door panel clips but **it happens, especially if you haven't done it before.
I generally do recommend an inexpensive set of trim tools for interior work... any brand similar to these will work (including Harbor Freight): http://www.amazon.com/Panel-Removal-Tool-Upholstery-Satisfaction/dp/B00U8RP7T4/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1450820626&sr=8-9&keywords=trim+tools - literally buy the cheapest ones you can find that look like what I linked. They are all made by the same 1-2 factories in China, anyway.
Another piece of advice - DO NOT use Amazon to look up what fits for your car. It is wrong more often than it is right. Even if you buy from Amazon, use Crutchfield to look it up.
For your purposes, this $120 Pioneer FH-X720BT should be perfect: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130X720BT/Pioneer-FH-X720BT.html?search=x720bt&skipvs=T
I use the FH-X820BS in my own truck. Very good for the price. The 820 is almost exactly the same as the 720 (it just adds support for the SiriusXM tuner should I decide to buy one later).
Awesome, good luck with it and feel free to PM me if you have any questions. If you buy from Crutchfield then I believe they'll send you a PDF with instructions on removing door panels, head unit, etc. I have one for the OB which should be the same as your Legacy and would be happy to email it or Dropbox it to you if you're not going with Crutchfield.
Definitely have some trim removal tools before you get started. You can get them for a few dollars on Amazon or Harbor Freight. Makes removing panels easier without scratching or creasing them like you might with a screwdriver.
I have had the 9500ix for 4+ years now and it's been working pretty well. It's saved me from at least 4-5 tickets. As /u/13489194 stated below though, there are newer models out there that work better and are worth a few extra bucks. What I've noticed in the past few years is a very annoying increase in false positives with all the new cars that have side radar blind spot detection.
I mounted mine up on the top of the windshield a few inches below the headliner and to the right of the rearview mirror. It doesn't obstruct my view, and only prevents the passenger sunshade from fully opening a bit.
What you want to do is get a hardwire cable, a tap-a-fuse, and a trim tool and just gently pull on the trim and use the plastic trim tool (aka bone tool) to push the wire in behind the trim, down the A-pillar, and then into the fuse box. Not sure about the S6, but on my A5, it made it easier getting it down the A pillar to remove the "Airbag" plastic cover piece that covers up a Torx screw, and slightly unscrew the cover over the pillar so you can more easily fish it in.
Hardwire that bad boy into a fuse that is only on when the car's ignition is on, such as the Homelink Garage door opening or something. I dunno about the S6, but on my A5 there are fuse panels on both the passenger and driver's side. I put mine on the driver's side so that I can mount the little mute button assembly w/ the included velcro right below the headlight switch assembly. I can easily and quickly mute it as well as see the flashing light while driving.
Some stuff I'd recommend:
Escort Max 360 Detector
Hardwire adapter unit (no need for the bluetooth one as the Max has bluetooth built into it now)
Tape a fuse
Trim tools to fish the wire in
Other common tools you'll need would be a screwdriver, Wire Crimper/Stripper, and a socket to punch down the ground connection in the fuse panel.
Also, you'll want to be running the Waze application when driving as it will notify you of police locations reported by users. That's saved me a lot, especially when they aren't using radar or are using laser.
Just realized how vague my reply was.
Weather mats - I was able to get "free" Honda ones from the dealer with my vehicle purchase. They're nice and fit well. I've heard great things about weather tech too. And don't forget one for the trunk too. Mine earned it's keep the first time a milk jug leaked. Super easy cleanup compared to carpet cleaning.
Interior leds - I used these plus this trim removal kit. Trim kit is a nice to have, you probably have something around the house to improvise with. For the actual install hit up you tube for "tenth gen Civic interior lights". It's a very easy job.
Also this was my first time having a car with a nice key fob so I got some of these to keep it from getting beat up. With auto lock, unlock, and push button start, it only leaves my pocket when I'm home anyway.
I just bought a '14 GT which is essentially the same internals as the 2011. I went with these Polk DB571's. Took me about an hour and a half to install, but it all went flawlessly and they sound incredibly better than the stock crap that came with it. Sync calls now sound clear and nice whereas before they were muffled and flat. They do not need an amplifier and they are so much better than stock.
Also make sure you buy 2 of these as well so you don't have to do any fancy wiring. Each pack comes with 2. And also a set of these so you don't damage anything taking the doors and trunk shelf apart.
Here is a crazy useful video on how to install them.
Total cost for two sets of speakers and tools to install them, about $130. This is of course assuming you have a ratchet set available.
I replaced mine last week on my 2011 Speed and it was a learning experience. And yes the new part cured the false alarm issue. Here's a video on how to remove the door panel but not the actuator. Thanks to Ally at Everything DIY:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C9wlWCF3LrA
I didn't read the service manual beforehand but I wish that I had. If you have questions feel free to ask.
Edit: Take lots of pics as you disassemble the inner door panel. Ally's video does a great job documenting the outer door panel.
Edit 2: A set of door panel removal tools are nice to have in your tool arsenal. I bought a set at Harbor Freight but these are very similar:
https://www.amazon.com/Tresalto-Auto-Trim-Removal-Tool/dp/B01L8GHB7O/ref=pd_cp_263_1?pd_rd_w=szsGV&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=KTHPKPSDHKF8K2Z5E9V0&pd_rd_r=6d79417f-a761-11e9-ba93-c31e6dacbe46&pd_rd_wg=8imSE&pd_rd_i=B01L8GHB7O&psc=1&refRID=KTHPKPSDHKF8K2Z5E9V0
A hook and pick set is a must have as well:
https://www.amazon.com/GreatNeck-621-Piece-Hook-Carde/dp/B000CMDQ4S/ref=sr_1_25?crid=26BXJMU79EZG9&keywords=hook+and+pick+set&qid=1563237505&s=automotive&sprefix=hook+and+%2Cautomotive%2C191&sr=1-25
This guy is perfect for your setup. Gets you the 100w for your speakers and a respectable 350w for your sub.
Make sure you set your gains correctly. I'd leave some headroom on the speakers (target 90w) to avoid clipping.
This amp has fuses on it but you still need to fuse the power wire. Don't skimp on wiring!
This is a simple, clean, respectable little setup. I like it.
Oh yeah one last thing! I'd highly, highly suggest putting these on the shopping list if you don't have anything.
http://car-part.com/
You just have to find a junkyard that's willing to sell you one.
Basically you need the following:
APIM
GPS Antenna (Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R6NL5G6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
USB Port Replacement (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HC84V8D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
The USB Port isn't REALLY necessary for Android Auto, but it's cheap and easy to change, the 2016 doesn't actually need an adapter like the older fusions, it's just drop in and the new ports also enable CarPlay. if you decide to keep the old one, it will throw an error on the screen every time it starts but will still work with Android Auto.
Pry Tools - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7XNQHG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
A 7mm Socket Wrench
A ForScan Compatible ODB2 Programmer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PHNX57D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And you'll have to reprogram the Car Computer. You can google that and there's a dude out there that will give you a ready made programming file for $50.
The APIM you can find by looking for a model number xxxx-14G370-xxx
There are also 14G371 Modules, and I believe those are the Navigation enabled ones but I'm not 100% sure. I don't particularly care since I just use Android Auto anyway and that just uses the Phone GPS.
Once you have all the parts it's honestly not too hard of a swap. I was scared of doing it but I think it was definetly worth it. the Sync 3 system is SOOOO much better than Sync 2 just because the way it interacts with the phone is excellent.
Also one thing I DID notice is that while all Fusions from 2017 onwards have Sync 3, it looks like the 2017 APIMs (and 2018 too maybe) are stuck on Sync 3 version 3.0 where as the newest one is 3.2 or so. It doesn't matter for Android auto strictly since that's updated on the Phone, but if Ford does decide to add features, we likely won't get them. Not without an APIM swap, and there are some reported issues with swapping newer APIMs.
It's car specific, but they generally have a few trim pieces that need to be removed, and then a couple screws. After that you just have to pop the clips that hold the panel in place around the outer perimeter. I'm sure you can find a video or tutorial on your specific car. That's what I did, just hit up YouTube.
For tools, you'll need panel removal tools, like these. You can also grab these for helping with popping those clips. It's not necessary though. The first time I did it I just used a flat head screwdriver and torque xD Definitely not the easiest though.
I use this one because it records forwards and backwards. They’re super easy to install if you’re just plugging into the 12V outlet. I mounted it on the passenger side of the rear view mirror, so it’s hidden from my view. The cord is fully tucked away under the ceiling, run down the door under the weather stripping, looped under the glove box, and finally plugged in. Completely invisible except at the outlet. Do yourself a favor and get a nice plastic tool like the second link.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0742J69SQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
https://www.amazon.com/GOOACC-Dashboard-Dismantle-Installer-Tool-4PCS/dp/B00D7XNQHG/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=car+pry+tool&qid=1565954709&s=gateway&sprefix=car+pry&sr=8-4
I used Goo Gone because it's gentle and I didn't want to risk stripping the clear coat or anything. Soaked it real good, waited 30 seconds or so and used one of THESE with a flat tip as a scraper. There were some very fine scratches afterwards. I could only see them with a flashlight and they came out easily with maguiers scratchx 2.0.
Since yours is newer the adhesive will probably come off easier than mine did.
Here is the link!
VLand
The music in the video is my favourite part.
If you’re using this video to install the vland tails, know that you don’t have to go to the lengths of removing the hatch light or upper- quarter panels all the way off. You can very easily pry the trim all around he hatch opening, just enough to fish the sequential twindicator cable through with a stiff wire such as a coat hanger or a grabber tool.
Also if you don’t already own one, pick up a trim removal kit on amazon from $7-$50 depending on brand and quality I did mine with an $16 one, super handy.
Good luck!
amazon trim kit
SV is the lowest trim of the 2014-2015 Mazda 3s https://www.cars.com/research/mazda-mazda3-2015/trims/
For OP, can't say for certain about the fog lights (or anything else really), but it's super easy to remove the covers and check to see if the fog light wiring is there - either something like a panel pry tool or a screwdriver with electrical tape wrapped around to prevent scratching.
I have replaced two regulators in my WJ and can tell you this tip. when you buy the parts for the regulator also buy all of the clips that hold your door panel on and the tools to do it right too.
Here is a removal toolset that I wish I had when I did this work
Here are two tutorials that walks you through the process
Good
Better
Here is a listing on Ebay for the clips themselves
It's a very straightforward process, you'll be in and out in a couple of hours if you take your time and sort all of your parts like me, or less than an hour - with practice like CDN_Conductor says.
Come check out /r/grandcherokee in addition to this sub if you have additional questions specific to the WJ, like /r/cartalk we are a community of enthusiasts CRAZY about cars, only focused on the Grand Choerokee.
Sure. You're going to be running a power wire from the radar, across the top of your windshield, under the top part of your A-pillar, into the rubber trim, down to the side access, and into the fuse box. You're going to put an add-a-circuit in to put two fuses in one slot and share a fuse that turns on when the car is in accessory mode so the radar is only on when the car is on. These are the steps I took:
Step 1:
Mount the radar where you want it to be. I have mine above my mirror so it doesn't obstruct my windshield view at all and isn't visible from outside the car.
Step 2:
Plug the power wire into the radar.
Step 3:
Feel the top of the windshield where the headliner meets it. There's a roughly 1/4" gap there. Tuck the power wire into this gap, working your way towards the driver's side door. The red line is the path your wire will be taking.
Step 4:
When you get to the edge of the windshield, use one of the trim tools to gently pry the A-pillar cover just enough to allow you to tuck the wire into it. Get the wire flat and then push the cover back into place.
Step 5:
Tuck the wire in between the rubber trim on the door, working towards the dash.
Step 6:
Use the trim tool to pry off the side cover. It has 3 clips and should come out fairly easily.
Step 7:
Remove dash drawer by opening it and then squeezing the sides towards the back.
Step 8:
Pull out a fuse, put it in your add-a-circuit, then put the add-a-circuit plug where you pulled the fuse from. The red arrow points to the fuse I chose.
Step 9:
Turn on the car and verify that the radar powers up and down with the car.
Step 10:
Velcro strap the excess power wire and tuck it out of the way.
Step 11:
Replace the drawer and side panel
Stuff to buy:
Power wire:
https://www.amazon.com/Escort-Direct-Power-Radar-Detectors/dp/B0003NN83U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497974491&sr=8-2&keywords=9500ix+hardwire
Add a circuit:
https://www.amazon.com/Radar-Mount-Detector-Fusebox-Circuit/dp/B00UB9W92C/ref=pd_sim_107_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00UB9W92C&pd_rd_r=0K76S4T52SJB4ACR9V8M&pd_rd_w=AupqD&pd_rd_wg=ZwoBH&psc=1&refRID=0K76S4T52SJB4ACR9V8M
Fuse puller:
https://www.amazon.com/RoadPro-RPFP2-Fuse-Puller-Pack/dp/B00CSBUFOU/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1497975152&sr=8-5&keywords=fuse+puller
Trim tools:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNMLQAG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
those crimpers work but they are actually for non insulated only and tend to punch through insulation, doesn't look like there is an insulated hole on them. For quick work use my trusty old klein but I also have a ratcheting crimper with a few different die sets, the insulated die is a double crimp and works fantastic. This works almost as well for a lot less $$$(I bought the cheap one when I thought I loaned my palidin then realized it was in another toolbox). I'm usually too lazy to solder stuff under the dash(proof of laziness), but anything outside of the cabin I solder and use glue lined heatshrink to make sure the union is not compromised. When I do use butt splices or crimp caps, I make sure to use the right crimper.
I also consider my test light as a must have, computer AND airbag safe. It make signal chasing much easier using the piercing probe and the headlight is handy. Keep the bandaids handy using it though, I've tested the voltage in my fingers quite a few times.
While the plastic trim tools come in handy, I find something like this very handy when you need a bit more nut behind the prying, although I haven't't used the window crank clip remover in a LONG time lol.
https://mazda3revolution.com/forums/2408051-post15.html
With a trim tool set and the proper wrench it was pretty easy.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B0Q5M7Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XF1F3CS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Good luck!
I don't believe you can downgrade the firmware. Installing the version 70 first is a requirement for the "official" android auto. I paid $162 for the USB cables and dock ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KRPSRKH ), and $10 for the trim kit ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L8GHB7O )
I found the instructions to follow here: https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=679114
There's a link to an 'hdrive' site, find the NA firmware, put them on a USB key (16gb or smaller) and follow the instructions to the letter. It's easy.
Then find the folder for the videos of the cable install, find the closest match to yours. Also easy.
Firmware took an hour (mostly sitting and waiting). Cables took an hour in my 2018 CX-5.
Both were easy as far as anything technical I've ever done. Very easy. Just take your time, follow each step carefully.
I went OEM because some of the aftermarket installs can have weird gremlins. The downside is that it’s limited to the range of your existing keyfobs. That and the fact that if you have the limited with the smart key the car shuts off when you open the door. I totally get why it works that way, it’s a feature not a bug and it’s not big deal, but some people are annoyed by that.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00OBVU92I/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I know that fits the 2014-2017 models, there is a similar part number (search PT398-891X0) for earlier 5th gen models.
I had to do some googling and digging in the 4Runner forums to find the install documentation, but I think it was this thread. The instructions covered everything, it was really very straightforward and was 100% plug and play. I have a limited and factory security so I didn’t have to install the hood switch, but that doesn’t look too hard either. If those aren’t the correct instructions let me know and I’ll dig it off of my hard drive.
You’ll want to get some plastic panel popping tools off of amazon, I got these. Other than that you’ll just need some common hand tools for the bolts, a screw or two, and cutting the tails off of the zip ties you install. Oh, they recommend a torque wrench for the knee airbag you have to take out (it’s less scary than it sounds, I promise). I had a cheap harbor freight one and it worked fine, but I don’t think it would be the end of the world if you just tightened them with your socket wrench by feel to what they were when you removed it, they don’t seem like they would be mission critical for the airbag to still work, they just hold it in place.
To get it to work with your keys, they have to be programmed. While there are apparently ECU programming tools one can buy, they seemed sketch and getting the techstream software to work was a fucking nightmare (I had to run a VM with Windows XP, and that’s before the driver nightmares) so I recommend just taking all the keys into a Toyota dealer, mine programmed them for the remote start for ~$60. It might even be cheaper if you time it with a maintenance visit. In the end my dealer wanted $750 to install the factory remote start but buying it myself and only paying them for the keys I spent half of that and 90 minutes of my time.
Oh, and the little barrel shaped plastic screw-head cover on the passenger kickplate in the bottom right of the passenger floorboard waaaay up in the back? It unscrews, it doesn’t pull off. Remember that, it took me like 10 minutes to figure that out. That was probably the toughest part other than getting the wiring harness actually plugged in, it was a tight fucking fit with all the wires.
I did it the hard way. It really wasn't that hard. You will need a set of trim removal tools like these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HNMLQAG
and a drill bit and I think that was it. I don't even remember a screwdriver but you might have needed one. I followed a youtube video. I did it on a blazing hot day and get it done in 20 minutes. I remember my sweat dripping onto the rear cover thingy and evaporating as I looked down... I recommend doing it on a cool day because you will be under a big window :)
Here's Mopar's instructions for removing the front fascia. Just disregard the part of the instruction about removing the chrome grill surrounds (that has nothing to do with what you're doing)
Tool for putting in plastic pop rivets
plastic pop rivets
replaceable rivet clips - not really necessary as you can re-use the ones you take out. But good to have handy.
Trim removal tool - not completely necessary, but helps to have them and prevents scratching things
at 10mm deep socket - this is necessary to get 2 nuts that are stuffed up in the fender. You'll also need a long extension to get to those
It took me about 5 hours to do start to finish, by myself in my garage. Only help I had was lifting the front fascia off (my wife helped) because you really need 2 people lifting (one on each end) to get it off without breaking anything. If you have someone to help you, you can get it done in much less time
Hahha thanks man, you too! I'm VERY nervous... I've never done this before LOL good luck with yours too if you end up opting in to doing it yourself.
I bought this tool to help me remove some of the pieces.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XF1F3CS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Yes, and easy enough to do yourself. It helps to have a trim tool to help pull panels and tuck wires in.
Just did this over the weekend. As the others have stated, if you're not forceful, you shouldn't be breaking any clips. I could probably tear the dash apart again in about 15-20 mins if I had to do it again.
I do highly recommend purchasing a plastic auto trim remover kit. They made popping the panels and clips ALOT easier. I purchased this one: https://www.amazon.com/Tresalto-Auto-Trim-Removal-Tool/dp/B01L8GHB7O/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1539017376&sr=8-4&keywords=auto+trim+removal
The trim remover comes in handy when you're trying to pop the clips to loosen the old AUX hub unit. You can find details instructions on how to remove the TRIM panel in the TRIM PDFs here: https://my.hidrive.com/share/hsodpqja.l#$/Mazda_Firmware/1%20CarPlay-AndroidAuto%20INSTALL
​
IMO, I was more nervous about the software update than the physical labor of running the cables. I spent more time doing the software update because I needed a FAT32 formatted USB stick. That was a challenge since most of my memory sticks are 64gb+ and can only be formatted in exFAT/NTFS on Windows 10. Partitioning the 64gb drives to <32GB didn't really help me either, so I had to go purchase a <32GB usb stick and formatted to FAT32. Other than that, I was nervous about the installation failing, but it was also pretty straight forward. You need to complete the update ahead of the physical installation, so I'd recommend just getting that out of your way first.
I'm glad I did the installation myself, I don't know how neat the dealers would be in terms of dampening and tidying up the new cables.
They're really easy, just look up how your door panel comes apart so you don't have to pull on things and guess.
Buy this tool, or one like it. It makes the job really easy:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-35260-Plastic-Fastener-Remover/dp/B0002SRCMO/ref=sr_1_41?keywords=door+panel+clip+tool&qid=1556081230&s=gateway&sr=8-41
You can try something like this or this (also search the similar products there, might find one with better reviews or better prices, that was just first thing that popped up.)
It's hard to tell from the picture, it doesn't look like the vinyl is scratched through, just roughed up, so before you do anything try taking a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser to it and see what it does first.
They are just autobody push pins. You can get the tool at most any auto parts stores.
MICTUNING 3 Pcs Clip Pliers Set & Fastener Remover - Auto Upholstery Combo Repair Kit with Storage Bag for Car Door Panel Dashboard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071XVLWZV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NnbJBbFV4W2XY
The pins come in a variety of sizes so some tools work better than others. But the above link will give you an idea.
That style of pin is usually only good for a couple of uses before they are junk and won't hold. Buy a few to have on hand for when you need them.
Get a piece of plastic (or a knife, with caution), stick it in a crevice, and just pry it off carefully. They pop off easily. These things are pretty useful.
Yes, get a kit from Amazon (KINGLAKE Auto Door Clip Panel Trim Removal Tool Kits for Car Dash Radio Audio Installer Pry Tool 4Pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HNMLQAG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf) or wrap a flat head screw driver with electrical tape. Start from the front clip on the left and work you way towards the back. The right side also has a front clip near the windshield and you have to work your way from back to front.
Also- get 3M clear auto tape to put under the mount feet(3M Clear Scotchgard Paint Protector Vinyl Wrap .5" Wide Tape Roll (.5" x 48") https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072KF647X?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf) to prevent scratching the paint.
I want to say I used a 3/8”bit to drill through the roof gutters. Bought new bits so they were very sharp.
Not at all, you do want to get a trim removal tool for the headliner portion. It's not required, but does make it much easier.
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/GLISTON-Removal-Panel-Vehicle-Installer/dp/B07JVP1MRS/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=trim+panel+tool&qid=1568436223&s=automotive&sr=1-5
Just installed mine yesterday and here's some tips:
Pay attention to the 2 different sized plugs when removing the bumper cover so you try putting right plug in the right hole.
Pay attention to which piece goes over/under when looking at the wheel well area so you are confident how to put the cover back on. I say this because I had one part going UNDER another and it made snapping the bumper cover back on difficult. One clip was not snapping back in until I realized I had the cover going under another piece when it should have been OVER top.
I bought some cheap auto trim piece kit that helps pulling plugs out and also plastic tools that help pop clips without scratching the paint. Here's the link to what I bought: Tresalto Auto Trim Removal Tool Kit, Set of 5 Pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8GHB7O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kpJaBb0EEWNQ9
This: http://www.amazon.com/BMW-82-11-149-389/dp/B000PA00XM
Hook your iphone/ipod into the aux input.
You might need these: http://www.amazon.com/Leegoal-Panel-Dashboard-Dismantle-Installer/dp/B00D7XNQHG/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452048112&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=panel+removal+tool
And watch this for how to install it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0qmXdnFdjwk
I found this job to be pretty easy. I installed in the back of pocket below the radio. I can tuck the wire away that way.
Everyone is right about the maintenance. Stay on top of it or it will get out of control.
I bought a Lisle tool that helps a ton with lifting them.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-35260-Plastic-Fastener-Remover/dp/B0002SRCMO
It's glorious. I have used it a bunch of times now on several cars.
The above... Use these.
Long Guide
https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Threader-Cable-Running-Pulling/dp/B00NQ0N5D0
Short and Stiff guide
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002LE8CQM
Body tools: (I credit this as one of my best purchases ever)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNMLQAG/
Hey guys I ordered them online from a parts place in Texas. Link here:
https://www.nissaninfinitiparts.com
I did both sides in the front. $58 each. I think about $13 to ship. The guys were really friendly and helpful, called me after I placed the order to confirm the parts and they showed up on time. The parts and shipping were cheaper getting them from Texas than getting them here in Chicago.
I also used these tools:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HNMLQAG/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Plenty of videos on popping the old ones out on YouTube. Took about 10 minutes.
Bought this one:
Anyyion Auto Panels Trim Removal Tool for Door Panel Removal Tools 8PCS(Red) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XF1F3CS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6iG6BbXWCZRED
Seems like there are a bunch of similar ones on amazon. Any with decent reviews seem like they will do fine.
‘Kick plate’ or ‘sill trim’.
It’s usually just held down with some clips and comes off fairly easily with a small, thin plastic pry bar or trim removal pliers . Just be sure to find the clips before you lift it up and position your tool as close as possible to the clip.
It looks like you’ll also have to remove the rubber seal before the sill trim.
Car interior panel tools, like this: https://www.amazon.com/KINGLAKE-Panel-Removal-Radio-Installer/dp/B00HNMLQAGBrain fart. I meant one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Jakemy-Professional-Opening-Electronics-JM-OP06/dp/B00ZWEAOSW/
I've also used plastic bicycle tire levers with some success, it'll depend how flush the knob is with the panel.
I bought a cheap automotive pry tool set from Amazon for a couple of bucks. These are the ones I purchased: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNMLQAG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
To take the driver's side panel off, I shimmied one pry tool at each end of the panel that runs perpendicular to the door, and they popped out. After that, you need to pull the window switches out. I couldn't get the clips with my fingers, so I popped them out with a pry tool.
The passenger is a little easier IMO. You need to pry out the aluminum finisher on the door handle first, then there's two 10mm bolts that you need to unbolt, then the door handle will come out. After that, you should be able to get the passenger switch cover by hand. The clips to get the switches out are the same.
After I dipped mine and put them back in the car, I found a good tutorial on it (figures, lol) by someone on Youtube named AnthonyJ350. I painted mine a fair bit differently, but dissablemly is mostly the same.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6vopxhHPTGA
He also has a lot of other tutorials for our cars, so he might have a video on the center console. I've put in and taken out an aftermarket head unit in mine so I've done it, but I can't remember exactly what's in there.
i replaced both of mine on my 05. they're like $40 shipped on ebay and amazon. you need to buy a pry kit like this to pop it off and then it slides right in.
https://www.amazon.com/KINGLAKE-Panel-Removal-Radio-Installer/dp/B00HNMLQAG/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=pry+kit&amp;qid=1549632120&amp;sr=8-4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r5_-pebbIwk
Dent puller.
I’m not sure if that’s what they’re called exactly, but they’ll pull up on Amazon if you search for it by that term.
There’s also dent pullers that you can find that look like this one. I’ve seen them in the automotive section at Walmart.
Edit: I wouldn’t recommend the exact one from the second link (due to the low rating), but that’s how the one at Walmart looks.
If you don't have one of the kits to pull stuff apart I highly recommend one. It made my life a lot easier when I was working on some Tuesday. This is the one I have: Tresalto Auto Trim Removal Tool Kit, Set of 5 Pcs https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01L8GHB7O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0DpQDbP1B7G8X
Shouldn't be too hard. Be sure to acquire new fasteners for the door panel before you take it apart and get yourself a panel tool like this to make it easier on yourself: http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-35260-Plastic-Fastener-Remover/dp/B0002SRCMO/
When taking the panel off the door take your time and make sure you disconnect wiring harness in there as you go so you don't accidentally overextend any of them. Once that's off it is usually a couple nuts/screws to remove the mirror. Then install the new one by putting the nuts/screws back on. Put new door panel fasteners on your door panel. Connect wires back up and press it back on. Be careful around the door locks if you have the pin type that pops up and down as the linkage can become bent; on some cars you can remove the pin by unscrewing it before you start but for other styles you can't remove it because it's square.
Subwoofer, Amp, 8 gauge cable kit, trim removal set, Fuse taps, and T-Taps
As for a guide, I just used other guides online and pieced them together. Really should have made a well-documented one when I did it, but I installed mine 6 months ago. Already forgot certain things. Just remember to look up the speaker wire colors for the back speakers before you tap into them and know that putting the power cord through your firewall from your battery is going to be a total bitch :)
Also just to clarify, the fuse taps are for the remote wire going into the amp. I tapped the sunroof fuse as it shuts on/off with the ignition (I don't have a sunroof, but it shouldn't matter if you do or not). Also also, that black cable going into my amp on the left side is a bass knob that came with the amp. That's wired all the way up into my glove box, so it can be adjusted easily if it becomes too much. The wires with kit and everything are long enough that you shouldn't need anything else, and everything tucks away in the door seem guides so nothing is showing at all.
It looks like the new one you linked to purports to be a direct swap-in replacement for the stock unit.
However, they also say to send them a picture of your existing unit so they can confirm compatibility; so maybe do that.
Edit: with Amazon's return policies being so good, you could also just give it a shot.
Edit 2: I just realized you might have been asking about the actual install process. It shouldn't be too bad. Here's a video I found detailing the process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M-UEH_RkRTA
You'll want to get a set of trim removal tools like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Tresalto-Auto-Trim-Removal-Tool/dp/B01L8GHB7O/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2A3H5I2OJVFU6&keywords=trim+removal+tool&qid=1565547229&s=gateway&sprefix=trim+remo%2Caps%2C165&sr=8-5
The only tool you should need aside from that is a #2 Philips (maybe JIS? but Philips should work) screwdriver.
If you like to work in your car, get these tools, they are inexpensive and useful for removing door panels, interior/exterior trims, bumper clips and more without scratching or marrring anything.
I have this on a utility sink And love it
http://www.webstaurantstore.com/ts-b-0502-double-pedal-valve-floor-mounted/510B0502.html?utm_source=Google&amp;utm_medium=cpc&amp;utm_campaign=GoogleShopping&amp;gclid=Cj0KEQjwx96-BRDyzY3GqcqZgcgBEiQANHd-ngkDnrfGVFwCwXR88cHuo4mHfXk7HXRTCfL9hlKEKMAaAnSe8P8HAQ
American Standard 7680.110.002 Floor Mount Single Pedal Valve, Polished Chrome https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002MUZP8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KFl2xb209N5HB
Those would work if just cold
This for both
American Standard 7680.210.002 Floor Mount Double Pedal Valve, Polished Chrome https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002U5E1K8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PGl2xbCAST572
I ran the control wire (just 4-wire phone cord with RJ11 connectors) back to the trunk of the vehicle when I ran my 4-gauge amp wire (this video helped a lot). I used trim removal tools to pull all the panels for that initial run.
For the control knob, I first removed the side panel to the left of the headlight switch that's only visible when the driver's door is open, then opened and dropped the small storage box above the driver's knee area by pinching the sides and pulling down. Once those are open you can route the wire up under the steering column and over to the gas pedal. I then followed the install manual for the Apex garage door button which were great. Just one note - when you get the shift boot off, all you need to do is push up from the underside of the buttons to dislodge them - don't try to remove the whole piece around the shifter, as it appears to be bolted somewhere to the rest of the console, contrary to their instructions. Here are pics of the final installand customization of the button module to accommodate the ACR1 control knob.
I installed the parts myself over the weekend and it took me around 2.5 hrs. Grab a set of trim removal tools (around 10USD) , follow the service manuals closely and it's really not that hard.
You can get the parts today from Med Center Mazda on Ebay for $166.94USD - 15% off = $144.50USD (with coupon PICKFAST on EBay App ONLY), shipping free anywhere in the US.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mazda-Apple-CarPlay-and-Android-Auto-Retrofit-Kit-00008FZ34/192679403436?epid=11023459215&amp;hash=item2cdc965fac:g:Qb4AAOSwz6pbtnlR:rk:1:pf:0
https://www.amazon.com/Tresalto-Auto-Trim-Removal-Tool/dp/B01L8GHB7O/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_bs_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=PSYC82VRJR5KKEY3Z4EH
https://pages.ebay.com/promo/2018/1121/70319.html?_trkparms=%26clkid%3D8318549494442163000
Do yourself a favor and buy some non-marring panel tools you can get them local for cheap from harbor freight, slightly better quality and slightly more expensive from Menards (if you have one near you), and more expensive from any auto parts store. They will significantly lower the chances of fucking your trim up with a butter knife.
Yeah along the floor and interior panels. Get those plastic pry tools to help you get it behind the panel:
https://www.amazon.com/GLISTON-Removal-Panel-Vehicle-Installer/dp/B07JVP1MRS/
Those clips look similar to the ones that hold the door panels down. They were also super flush. I was able to get them off by using a flat head screw driver to lift them just enough to slide in a trim tool under the flathead, remove the flathead, and pry the clip with the tool. The tool I used came in a set. You could also probably get them at an auto parts store. I bought mine online.
Tresalto Auto Trim Removal Tool Kit, Set of 5 Pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8GHB7O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XWD4Db6B3XYBG
My lee classic turret works great, only gotcha is to put some loctite on the bolts holding the handle assembly, or they back out causing a bad time.
Also, if you want to use the RCBS pocket swager, you'll need to find a way to pop the cases off as the included thing doesnt bottom out on that press. I use an automotive plastic tab puller tool for this as it has the perfect cutout to pop them off with no effort ([similar to this guy] (https://www.amazon.ca/SODIAL-Upholstery-Removal-Remover-Fastener/dp/B00K69GDQK/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1506086862&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=trim+clip+tool))
From what I can see you're going to want to get a tool like this https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-Drake-Off-Road-Tools/dp/B0002SRCMO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518368702&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=clip+tool
at least if you plan on doing this a lot. Otherwise, a flat had screwdriver should be able to pry up the center section and then pull them out.
I used something like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNMLQAG
An old credit card will probably work fine... I'd cut it to make it narrower.
The key to pulling the door panel is to use the right tool.
You just slide it under the panel and slide it left or right to find the fastener. Then use it as a lever to pop the fastener loose. Works like a charm.
You can find it at any auto parts store for less than $10. A million uses beyond pulling door panels too.
From one Subaru owner to another. Hope this helps.
Lisle 35260 Plastic Fastener Remover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRCMO/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_6WpMyb4EWP6PR
Clipsandfasteners Inc 15 Subaru Bumper Engine Cover Fender And Grille Clips https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00588T81Q/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_IYpMybKHCF30R
found it. thank you!
You got to use like this-
Auto Trim Panel Upholstery Removal Tool Set, 5 Piece- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LE66RM/
You can also find them in auto parts stores
I found some plastic pry tools on Amazon that say they are for removing trim and panels in car interiors. Is that what you’re referring to? like this?
Headlights (you only need one pair. the cutoff is outstanding)
Map lights, license plate lights, running tail lights, and side marker lights
Reverse lights
Front turn signals (accessible from under the vehicle - pin remover and 10mm socket needed)
Rear turn signals (requires tail light disassembly)
Turn signal resistors (required to prevent hyperflashing; soldering is recommended)
Brake lights (requires tail light disassembly)
Daytime-running lights (pliers needed)
Trunk light and dome light
Something like Neiko 20596B Auto Trim Panel Removal Tool Set with Soft Grip (5-Piece) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B004LE66RM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8iKxDbG8K4JZ4
They have cheap plastic ones but they’re cheap for a reason. These will do for an amateur and needs something decent.
I literally installed this on my 2019 4 days ago. Took about 20 minutes. Invest in a proper trim removal tool kit so you dont mess anything up
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8GHB7O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_wjVDDbG0Z2MHG
Rivets - Ginsco 102pcs 6.3mm 8mm 9mm 10mm Nylon Bumper Push Fasteners Rivet Clips Expansion Screws Replacement Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076BMVZ8R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_aEMXCb5GHH8S3
Trim removal tools (good to have) - KINGLAKE 4Pcs Auto Door Clip Panel Trim Removal Tool Kits for Car Dash Radio Audio Installer Pry Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HNMLQAG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_LEMXCbFPMGXH9
As for the rivets I ended up replacing the “permanent” ones with the skinniest ones in the linked set. In the future I can reuse these if I want to.
Here's a decent video on removing the front bumper - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pUNlKmHgp9k
I watched and read as much as I could before diving into this. Let me tell you: it's fairly common sense once you do it. You almost could just go figure it out. I think I could have the bumper off in 15 minutes now that I've done it. Here's the main thing to know: once all fasteners are removed unclip the sides of the bumper outwards, the top upwards, and lastly the whole assembly forwards.
I saw the backs of the mesh grills and filed away the idea to change them some time later.
Tresalto Auto Trim Removal Tool Kit, Set of 5 Pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8GHB7O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HoxDDbF7E3FPH
You should be able to pop the panel off with a panel popper tool. Car stereo shops do it all the time.
one of these.
When I removed mine I used of these plastic trim tools.
I instated mine myself with this and powered it from the OBD by hotwiring with this. Never did it before. Just shove the wires into the gaps.
This has always helped me out.
Lisle 35260 Plastic Fastener Remover
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRCMO/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_RlSQwbH88JRR5
Links to everything I used for my installation:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G8HUTCW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNMLQAG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076F1WXRC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I got this tool
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-35260-Plastic-Fastener-Remover/dp/B0002SRCMO/ref=pd_bxgy_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0002SRCMO&pd_rd_r=81107e06-b9de-11e8-87eb-1be919d0e38f&pd_rd_w=vEvK5&pd_rd_wg=wuK8R&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3f9889ac-6c45-46e8-b515-3af650557207&pf_rd_r=W8JF6K0MS0R6C9Y470QQ&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=W8JF6K0MS0R6C9Y470QQ
Do you use this to pry the whole thing or just the center piece. I can't reach underneath the center piece to pry it out...
Dude, it is not hard to take off the plastic.
Get a trim puller and a set of trim tools ...
eg
https://www.amazon.com/KINGLAKE-Panel-Removal-Radio-Installer/dp/B00HNMLQAG/
https://www.amazon.com/Ninth-City-Steel-Upholstery-Removal-Pliers/dp/B01LZQM1BB/
No kit.
Wrap
Tools
And a heat gun I already had. The only issue I'm having is that there's air slowly forming in the corners like where the vents are, if I had to do it again id probably put some glue on those spots.
No contex. Self install, pretty normal post in the sub reddit.
Tresalto Auto Trim Removal Tool Kit, Set of 5 Pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8GHB7O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_j0A9BbCR2Y5GC
Your just a moron bud, this is pretty BASIC knowledge
If you follow the instructions in the initial post (which indicates for each part where to apply pressure and in which sequence) and get a trim kit (ex: Tresalto Auto Trim Removal Tool Kit, Set of 5 Pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8GHB7O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nspyCbJVYTMH4), you will not break anything.
Taking the door apart with the right tools, usually panel or trim removal tools (this is what I got) can be less difficult than you might think.
https://www.amazon.com/KINGLAKE-Panel-Removal-Radio-Installer/dp/B00HNMLQAG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520380837&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=panel+remover+tool
And personally I would try to do steering wheel controls, I doubt its $$$ just the labor of finding the right module and wiring it up.
A set of trim removal tools make removing the gauge cluster so much easier. I've removed the gauge shroud a few times on my '92 and those flexible pry tools helped avoid cracking it.
I need to replace my speedometer cable too. The first time I did an LED swap in the gauge cluster I damaged the flexible circuit board and killed my idiot lights and tach. When I do the speedo cable, I'll remove the cluster just to avoid damaging this one's board.