I've always struggled to keep my vehicles clean because 1) they were always old, 2) I've lived in condos, 3) car washes did a terrible job / detailers charged too much, and 4) I didn't realize you could do all of this yourself pretty effectively.


When I bought a new truck at the beginnging of the year, I randomly stumbled upon an Ammo NYC video and the nerd / clean-freak was intrigued. A couple dozen videos later, and I was hooked. Shout out to Larry for your passion - thank you for the insane amount of information on your channel. (Wish I could afford all of your products, or that you had some of them on Amazon!).

Living in a condo, I have to swing by my local coin wash and take up a bay with a few buckets during off-peak hours, but I've gotten it down to 1.5 hours and looking like this every time.

I've only been doing this for a few months, but thought I'd share the products I've researched and selected based on reviews and costs. Hope this helps save someone time!

TOOLS

• McGuire-Nicholas 22015 15-Inch Collapsible Tote - https://amzn.to/2HXGsvd - I love this thing. Handle is sturdy and holds every chemical I need.
  
• Relentless Drive Ultimate Car Wash Mitt - https://amzn.to/2KJC7td - Great mitt and would strongly recommend it. I've only used the mitt for a few washes so I can't comment on durability, but if I had to guess I think it's going to hold up. My only complaint is that it's so voluminous that it's difficult to rinse / wring out the dirt when using the two-bucket method. Not a big enough problem to look for another mitt, though.
  
  BUCKETS
  
  
• Chemical Guys ACC_101 Detailing Bucket Kit - https://amzn.to/2KJb552 - a good starter bucket, but it's worth calling out how much of this stuff is BS marketing: the bucket is only 4 gallons, the gamma lid can be bought for cheaper on amazon, the citrus gloss is OK, and the wash mitt is worthless / isn't going to hold up. I barely used the mitt once and fuzz falls off constantly when handling.
  
• Adam's Grit Guard Wash Bucket with Lid - https://amzn.to/2IoSflo - Better value than chemical guys, but the bucket is just a regular bucket ($4 at Home Depot) and the gamma lid can be purchased for $10-15 on Amazon. I'm not convinced grit guards are worth it, but more on that later.
  
• Grit Guard Washboard Bucket Insert - https://amzn.to/2HW4juZ - the product is well made and does what it's intended to do, but I'm skeptical of its value. Yes, rubbing your mitt on a washboard would intuitively get dirt to fall off, but is it actually more effective than using your hands (which you do anyway to wring out the mitt)? And I'm not buying that the fins "trap dirt." Anybody who looks at their rinse bucket while washing wheels for example can plainly see the water's black. Dirt's floating everywhere.
  
  
  CHEMICALS
  
  
• Mothers 08216 California Gold Instant Detailer - https://amzn.to/2KJ2f7t - this stuff has done a pretty good job for quick wipe-downs, spot cleans, etc.
  
• Griot's Garage 11108 Window Cleaner - https://amzn.to/2Iq5CSF - The spray bottle itself is awesome and works really well. The solution also seems to work well, though I've only ever used it after washing the truck and so I'm not sure how much it helps.
  
• Meguiar's G3626 Ultimate Waterless Wash & Wax - https://amzn.to/2jFg3DJ - I used this a few times with the microfiber directional pass method after some serious pollen clouds invaded Austin, and it worked surprisingly well. Ran through 3-4 towels to do my entire truck, then spot-cleaned with an instant detailer. Even though wheel wells and a few pieces were still dirty, it was a huge improvement without the hassle of a full wash. Will definitely be using this as my in-between wash method.
  
• Chemical Guys V7 High Gloss Spray Sealant and Quick Detailer - https://amzn.to/2HXiQ9R - I'm new to detailing, but this stuff is probably the most impressive chemical of everything I've used. The combination of a damp microfiber + V7 produces the result everyone thinks about when they think about car washes: a clean car with no streaks or water spots. Wringing out my microfiber towel can get old, but the end result is just awesome.
  
• Chemical Guys Citrus Wash and Gloss - https://amzn.to/2I1knvx - I don't have the luxury of a frother right now, but from simply adding some in a bucket and using a power washer to generate suds, I get decent foam and the soap seems to work well. That said, it's not earth-shattering and I will probably try other washes when I run out.
  
  
  INTERIOR
  
  
• Mothers 06512 All-In-One Leather Care - https://amzn.to/2IlawAg - This stuff works great and smells even better.
  
  
  WHEELS
  
  
• Adam's Deep Wheel Cleaner - https://amzn.to/2K09l6f - The spray bottle is terribly difficult to press and I always end up using way more than I want. I'm not confident I need to use this instead of just using soap. Maybe it's for exceptionally dirty cars or those with tons of brake dust, but I'm rarely in either camp so I may not buy some more after I run out.
  
• Adam's Hex-Grip Pro Tire Dressing Applicator - https://amzn.to/2HYtb5y - Works well and easy to handle.
  
• Mothers Wheel Brush - https://amzn.to/2K0Ky1Y - really like how easy this is to handle and how soft the bristles are. Highly recommended.
  
• Optimum Opti-Bond Tire Gel - https://amzn.to/2KJsxGP - This is a good low-gloss gel, though I need to try additional coats to see if I can get those tire shinier.
  
• ABN Car Wheel Rim Cleaning 3-Piece Kit - https://amzn.to/2KFgSIR - Yes the big woolie has good reach and allows you to clean the inside of your rims effectively, but the handle is annoyingly difficult to hold after it becomes saturated / heavy to hold.
  
  
  TOWELS
  
  
• Chemical Guys Professional Grade Premium Microfiber Towels, Gold - https://amzn.to/2HY8Q0a - these things are outsidanding and are a great value. Definitely watch Larry's video on microfiber care, which fixed all of my annoyances with microfibers accruing fuzz in the dryer.
  
• THE RAG COMPANY EAGLE EDGELESS 500 Korean 70/30 Super Plush 500gsm Microfiber Detailing Towels - https://amzn.to/2HYVmky - very high plush and high quality, though I end up using the Chemical Guys towels more often and save these for random spot details. Probably not ideal.
  
• THE RAG COMPANY Premium Window, Glass, Mirror & Chrome Korean 70/30 Microfiber - https://amzn.to/2rrveVg - work great for cleaning windows and mirrors.
  
• Nylon Laundry Bag - https://amzn.to/2rtYOcP - I have one bag for clean and one for dirty. Has done a great job of keeping dust off the rags during storage.

/u/daniell61 is all about that detailing. Here's a recent comment from him

---

do you know if that [bike] is primarily plastic or primarily metal?

for metal polishes (non painted) I can recommend marine 31's metal polish. shit works wonders on oxidized metals!!! (its my go to for non painated)



leather? any car marketed leather cleaner would be fine. I prefer mckees37 or meguiars to be fair.

for plastics I like this. a lot

leahter cleaner here

for learning these microfibers are a good cost effective start and you wont be hurt when they die and you replace them.

I can recommend any mckees37 towels or the rag company microfibers.

this or 3D pink soap (dirt cheap but i love it) is a great soap for washing without stripping waxes!


if you're like me and dont have time to clean...

once you're done. spray this and wash it off and boom bam you're set to go and have a good quality glass silia coating! here

I like mckees products a fair bit ;)

for sake of easy ass waxing I like extender wax but I do also like meguiars quik wax. that stuffs damn cheap but good. sadly its carnuba only :(

---

here's another one

---

TLDR rinse bucket and bucket with soap. use auto products. dont drop your MF cloths.


Personally I'd pick up a shampoo/conditioner and a basic wash mit thats microfiber made (attracts dirt better and wont mar your question)

(I can recommend 3D pink shampoo. cheap AND I love it)

next up a light compound (you can use meguiars ultimate compound. cheap inexpensive and hard to mess up) this brings out that POP in paint pretty easy to use with a hand applicator which are also cheap :)

next upppp paint polish. this is VERY subjective. I prefer mckees37 stuff but its more expensive than most like. I can also recommend meguiars ultimate polish. good and inexpensive :)

after wards you'll need a wax. meguiars ultimate liquid wax is a great starter and once again inexpensive. (I prefer trademark extender/policoat form mckees37) easy on easy off if you're taking you're time.

afterwards you can call it quits and bam you're done.

or keep going and seal your paint to keep that POP lasting. I HIGHLY recommend collinite 845 as its inexpensive as hell and STUPID easy to apply!!

also Mckees 37 SIO 2 ceramic coating is even easier but $.

then theres coatings. you can use something like Cquarts or even carpro....I personally juse use SIO2 from mckees37 currently. spray on wash off bam. not as effective but beyond stupid easy.


oh and also pick up some microfiber cloths of your choice. theres no right/wrong for them other than DONT DROP EM AND KEEP EM CLEAN.


links to products named

ultimate megs wax

ultimate polish megs

sio 2 coating 10% off ad warning


trademark extender wax spray

3D pink car soap/shampoo


collinite 845

ultimate compound megs

ultimate liquid wax -bigger AG carried

megs ult polish AG carried

Autogeek also price matches to a fair extent! and IF you're local you can pick up. :D


these microfibers are damn nice but $

I personally use these and they're lit. 16 pack and heavy duty enough to last a while

wash mitt I use


even NEW I can highly recommend clay baring your paint dis or the kit if you're new


oh and IF your brake pads literally ooze brake dust....this stuff takes time but takes care of the dust easily linky smells WAY better than carpro even at a lower concentration :p

My experience, after owning a Jet Black painted car. Others have said black cars are like having another full time job, and I agree.

I've been a huge fan of P21S paste wax. It's easy to apply, and doesn't matter how long you leave on, it's easy to remove. Starts to fade after 3 washes. But the best I've found a few years ago. This is the same wax that Harley uses. Overall a fan. This one is quite fun to apply to a freshly clay-bared car, by hand. No mitt, towel, or applicator pad. You can wax until your hand sticks, then rub hands together to get it to go further. And you have more control. Highly recommend to try this once. Used to swear by P21s wax, until I tried others.

Chem Guys - Butter Wet wax is a liquid, has the BEST wet look, deep tones for black/dark cars, but does not last long. At. All. Attracts the most dust, and creates the most dust while buffing. Looks the best right away, but quickly digresses to failure. Sadness.

Chem Guys - Black Light Hybrid wax. I use this with my Griots orbital and it's sealant & wax. Then I'll use P21S over it the next morning for the ultimate shine/protection. Overall, very satisfied with this. But the only wax I've applied with my buffer thus far. And was easy to remove. Lasted a tad longer than the P21s Wax, assuming it was the sealant properties causing this.

Recently read about Collinite waxes and they have them for boats, auto, and planes. I used their paste wax on my car, and it worked better than my P21S wax. It's been 6 washes in, and the water still beads in the same pattern as when I put it on. After driving for a week, with a few rain days, you can barely tell it's been rained on. It doesn't attract much dust in the garage, nor pollen. you don't notice that lower body water spray after driving, and still feels great to wash with wash-mit.

Griots - Was really disappointed in their Best of Show wax. Went on as a liquid. But did NOT come off easily. Yes I used the least amount possible, but I didn't like this one bit. Only used it once. Bottle is just sitting on the shelf. Didn't hold up very well either. The only way to remove it was with a detailing spray or spray wax. Sucked IMO.

May sound snooty of me, but I stay away from the over-the-counter waxes. I feel most of them have colors added to them, don't have the best protectant. I'd say not to buy the same wax twice. And only use clearer pastes rather than yellowish tinted waxes. Use the kinds that forgive if you get on plastics or that you get in between cracks. But:

NuFinish/Zymol Liquids - I use these after a quick microfiber wipe down, when it's still slightly wet. And then wax/dry it up at the same time. I'd rather use the liquids as they are easier for me to apply when slightly wet, rather than drying fully, than applying carnauba by hand afterwards.

I would like to try waxes by Swissvax, Zymol and more. But over $60 then you are starting to get into dangerous territory and eventually led to something like this. But I have a feeling, for that price, it better last a lifetime, better have 2 coats of clearcoat, and ad at least 50hp to your car. But makes you wonder if it's any different compared to the ones we use.

---

I always, use a spray wax when drying my car. I don't notice much of a difference in these, as long as you have ample of it.

Here's a good link on how to properly wash your car.

Haven't tried Zaino but have heard good things. Not a huge fan of the sealants, but starting to come around to them.

Tl;DR - all wax is great after using it for the first time. But the true test is how it holds up over time and how easy it is to apply/buff. The best looking results are the ones where you wax, let it cure overnight, and then that first wash afterwords is where it usually aesthetically "pops" the most.

Hope this helps! This isn't an exhaustive list of the best professional products but some of the best top rated affordable and highly rated by forums and high subscriber YouTubers. I'll try to answer questions as they come. Thanks for all tye comments and positive/critical feedback. Promise is all helps in the end!

Wash/Decontamination

1. Meguiar’s Gold Class Shampoo Car Wash - $23 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071HR14SJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
2. Mothers California Gold Clay Bar System (Best out of the packaged kits compared to “professional” line expensive clays/lubes) - $16 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002U2V1Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
3. Carpro Iron X Iron Remover 500 ml with Sprayer - $19 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UM6DLE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
4. CarPro Eraser Intense Oil & Polish Cleanser (Rated a little higher than Gyeon Prep – A few options out there but this is cheap and works great compared to straight IPA spray/wipe. It’s not rough on the clear coat and doesn’t cause issues with using higher % of IPA over time) - $17 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FY0XY1S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
5. 2x Five-Gallon buckets with a dirt guard in the bottom. – Lowe’s $10-$15 with the dirt guard (already had that)
   
   Wheels/Tires
   
6. CarGuys “Premium Wheel Cleaner” - $17 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014V9GFJU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
7. Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish (Classic Product but you really won’t find a more reliable and top notch wheel polish than this – Here is Amazon link but usually you can pick this up cheaper at Walmart for about $4 or $5 I believe) - $7 - https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05101-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B0009H519Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549046381&sr=8-3&keywords=mag+and+aluminum+polish
   
8. 1x 2.5 Gallon Bucket Dedicated To Wheel Cleaning ONLY – Lowe’s $5
   
   Compounding/Polishing
   
9. Meguiar’s New m110 (Newer m105) Compound (Try To Find A 15% Coupon) - $40 - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/meguiars-m110-pro-compound.html#.XFRhIlVKhpg
   
10. Meguiar’s New m210 (Newer m205) Finishing Polish/Swirl Remover (Try To Find A 15% Coupon) - $40 - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/meguiars-m210-pro-finishing-polish.html#.XFRhIVVKhpg
    
11. 6x Pack Lake Country CCS Compounding/Polishing Pads – 3x Orange/2x White/1x Green – $60 (Try to find a usable 15% coupon) - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/ccs-pads.html#.XFRfgVVKhpg
    
12. Meguiar’s PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish (Using for rear/front light polishing – Could use your compound to polish as an alternative but I like the protection factor built into this plastic polish) - $5 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AY3SR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
13. Car Foam Drill Polishing Pad Kit - 22x Piece 3” Buffing Pads (Cheap drill adapter + pads for head/tail lights only – You could go with a legit company for 3” pads but for the cost it was a joke and they are only for head/tail lights, NOT paint) - $11 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076ZJMHB1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Finshing Wax/Protectant/Plastic & Trim Restorer
    
14. Meguiar’s Ultimate Liquid Wax - $16 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HCM9H4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
15. TriNova Plastic & Trim Restorer (Hard Pressed to find anything as affordable for the ratings) - $13 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AAZ1OAE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Interior/Glass Cleaners
    
16. 303 PROTECTANT: Interior & Exterior UV Protectant (Use it to wipe leather seats, dash, and plastics) - $10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0185PU38A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
17. Invisible Glass Premium Glass Cleaner w/ EZ Grip (Awesome stuff) - $4 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KAON5Q2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Convertible Fabric Top Cleaner/Protectant/Sealer
    
18. RaggTopp Fabric Convertible Top Cleaner/Protectant Kit (This is top in class. There aren’t really any other higher rated options. Go with kit that has cleaner/brush/protectant sealer.) - $50 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008MM5ZFI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Microfiber Cloths/Car Drying Microfiber Cloths/Buffing Microfibers/Brushes/Etc.
    
19. Zwipes Microfiber Cleaning Cloths (24-Pack) (**Found this on a couple lists online for high ratings and they are soft/Highly rated on Amazon and cheap!) - $13 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANZHG7C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
20. Chemical Guys Chenille Microfiber Premium Scratch-Free Wash Mitt (Might consider 2-3 of them for washing the top and bottom parts of car – prevent further scratching) - $7 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TTL0TE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
21. Mothers Wheel Brush - $8 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GJ3DZS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
22. Chemical Guys Microfiber Wash Cleaning Detergent Concentrate (Almost all the videos put this one as #1 compared to a couple other companies that offer dedicated microfiber wash detergent) - $10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TJXWH4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
23. Chemical Guys Woolly Mammoth Microfiber Dryer Towel (25 in. x 36 in.) - $25 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042Z0LEO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
24. Other Random buffing foam applicators and microfiber cloths that came with some of the kits listed above. Will use those for compound wiping and etc.
    
25. Plastic Containers For Organization – Hefty 1.625 (Microfiber container) & 3.75 (Other products w/o squirt triggers) Gallon Containers I believe are the ones in the picture. These are awesome considering the cheap pricing. The plastic is heavy duty and the lathes aer decent all things considered. - https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hefty-1-625-Gallon-6-5-Quart-Clear-Tote-with-Latching-Lid/1000505511
    
    

I'm reposting some suggestions I made from a previous similar thread, hope it works out for you (the last person's budget was $100; not sure what yours is, but you can pick and choose!)

 

Optimum No Rinse: Concentrated and capable of being diluted as a wash, quick detailer, clay lubricant, window cleaner, light interior cleaner, and more.

Optimum Opti-Seal: Incredibly easy to use sealant (wipe on and walk away!), can be used in place of RainX on windows, good drying aid, and useful as an interior dressing as well. Opti-seal ALL the things!

Detailing brushes: Because every detailer can use more brushes!

Nanoskin Autoscrub Sponge: Makes the process of decontaminating your paint much faster. Much longer life than clay and can be used even after dropped on the ground! Use the ONR as lubricant and you save tons of money.

The Rag Company Eagle Edgeless Towels, 4 pack: These will be the best towels he's ever used.

The total for all of this should be $97.96, just under your budget :)

 

A couple other suggestions if you want to mix and match:

Smaller Opti-Seal: Since it's the biggest budget item here and a little goes a long way, you can go with the small one to include more items in your bundle.

Adam's Wheel Cleaner: The least terrible smelling wheel cleaner, but extremely effective as well. Good if that truck throws a lot of brake dust.

CarPro PERL: For protecting exterior plastics as well as dressing them, and for use as a satin look tire dresing.

Wheel Woolies: Makes cleaning wheels a much nicer experience, and won't fling brake dust into your face like the brushes do.

Hope this helps! If you want any more specific recommendations for any category, feel free to ask! As for things to avoid, Armorall, Turtlewax and Chemical Guys in my opinion.

OK, you have a ton of questions in there, let's try to sort it out.

First off, you need to assess the paint, and not just assume you need to do all the steps you mentioned (and some you didn't mention). If the car is new, you probably won't need to clay it, as the paint is probably 'clean'. Here is how you figure out if it is clean. After it is washed, i.e. all of the loose, surface dirt is gone, simply gently rub the paint, especially on a horizontal surface like the hood. You can do this while it is wet. How does it feel? Clean paint feels soft and smooth and makes no noise when you rub it. Dirty paint feels rough, hard and makes a 'swishing' sound when you rub it. If you hear anything, it needs to be clayed. Most clays are very similar, so there is very little difference in any of them. They all do the same job about the same. Also, as to your twice a year question, it all depends on the condition of your paint. I wash my car often, so stuff doesn't get embedded in it, so I don't need to clay my car (its been over a year).

You see, paint is like skin. It has pores, and when it gets dirty and is not washed, contaminants (dirt, fallout, metallic flakes, etc) clog the pores and it loses its shine and that's when it needs to be clayed. The clay removes those embedded contaminants.

As for the wash: any good car wash soap will do. It's not rocket science. As long as it says car wash, you're good. ONR is a good alternative once you have protected the paint and it needs a very light wash, or it doesn't have much dirt or grime on it, but you want it cleaned. It is a whole process to clean your car via ONR, but get some, its good stuff. It is also good for interiors, windows, lube for claying your paint, etc. It is concentrated, so you can dilute it how you want.

Wax vs. sealant. Yes, this is confusing. To simplify: sealant is just man made wax. Wax is good stuff, but since it is a natural product (secreted by Brazilian Palm trees), it doesn't last very long (two months is great for wax to still be effective). Sealant simply does the same thing as wax, but can give you up to 8-9 months of UV protection, water beading, etc.

As for layering protection on, it's not really worth it, IMO. Is it worth it to wear two condoms? Not really. Just use the best stuff you have (best as in easiest to lay on, take off and looks good, and lasts a long time) which is personal preference. To continue, if you are going to layer, you want to put the longest lasting product on first. it would't make sense to put on a spray wax that will last a couple weeks, then sealant on top of it. The sealant is bonding with the spray wax, not the paint itself, so it will come right off. How often? As often as you want to. When it doesn't seem like you have the protection, cover it back up. Should you strip old stuff off? Only if you want to, but most products enjoy layering on top of itself (i.e. a couple of applications of the same stuff a few months apart).

Do you need a pressure washer/foam cannon, etc? Not necessary, (again this is just my opinion, but I do this for a living) but if you want to spring for it, a pressure washer makes cleaning easier. I think foam cannons are a waste of time and money. They're fun and look cool, but don't do much that a good, proper pressure washing couldn't do. To answer your last question, No, you still need to do a contact wash. A protected car should only require a light wash with suds and MF towel or mitt or whatever. If you just rinse, foam and rinse, you'll be disappointed, because it will still have dirt on it.

I'm happy to share more of my opinions, on processes, products or whatever. Answering questions is what this sub is for!

​

I would reccomend these materials for the two bucket wash method. Its probably the most common method, and one of the safest. There are plenty of youtube how to's on this. These are the materials you'll need.

• Two buckets that will be used for the two bucket wash method. They can be purchased from a local home center for relatively cheap. $10
  
• Grit Guards. Preferably two, in order to prevent grit from reentering the wash mitt. $20
  
• Wash Mitt. Something like this will be just fine. $8
  
• Car soap. This is completely up to you. Something like Meguiar's Gold Class is fine. $10
  
  
• Wheel brush. Dependent on what you type of wheels you have. A quick amazon search will give you an idea. $10-20
  
• Sealant. I use Meguiar's M21. Not the best not the worst. Im sure others will chime in an have recommendations for you. $20.
  
• Wax. I don't use a wax because my car is older, and the sealant does just fine.
  
  
• Microfibers. The Rag Company has some great starter kits.
  
  Not Necessarily essentials, but recommended.
  
  
• Wheel cleaner. Something like Sonax. $15
  
• Clay Bar. This will be used to intitially remove contaminants from the car. Plenty of youtube how to's and kits can be found easily through amazon or your local auto parts store. $20
  
  I don't think you need anything like a DA at this point. Others will have recommendations for you, and I encourage you to take their advice as well. Some great youtube channels are Ammo NYC, Larry is a master at explaining how to's. He has is own line of products but they're expensive. You can even email him with questions and he'll respond quickly and go above and beyond to explain somethingto you. Junkman, also another great channel. Chemical Guys, they have some pretty good products but their customer service is shit. Their youtube videos are pretty good but all they do is upsell their products.
  
  I'm fairly new to detailing like you. I dont have the best products, but what I use seems to work for me. There are better products out there but budgets can only be so large.
  

The answer to your first question of what makes vehicles "have that glorious-mirror almost appearance" is paint correction. There is no miracle product that will instantly turn shitty paint into 100% flawlessness in 1 application. It will take good claying, compounding, and polishing to get the results you are looking for. I'm sure that the clay, HF DA, M105 and M205, and the various pads you have will be able to get the results you are looking for. The only problem is time. It is going to take more time to get the results because the HF DA is not powerful, when compared to something like the Rupes or the Flex.

Carnauba waxes. The consensus is that they add depth and shine, but don't last long. Sealants last longer, but with less shine and depth. Both sealants and carnauba waxes will make shitty paint look less shitty, with carnauba slightly edging out sealants. But like previously stated, its all about the prep work. Sealant on flawless paint will still look better than carnauba wax over sealant on shitty paint.

Glazes. The sole purpose of glaze is to fill in scratches. No amount or type of glaze will replace correcting paint. It is unnecessary to put glaze immediately after a vehicle just had paint correction as there are no scratches for the glaze to fill in. However, sometimes it makes sense to glaze and not correct the paint. Generally, the two situations where glaze is better than correcting paint are when you don't have enough time to correct the vehicle, or the customer does not have the funds to correct the vehicle. Correcting paint takes hours and hours, while glaze (depending on vehicle size) may take up to an hour to apply and remove. Obviously, paint correction costs more than an application of glaze.

Spray on wax compared to Collinite #845 is like comparing pee wee football to the NFL. Even a shitty application of Collinite that is 4 months old will still be better than spray on wax. That said, I think it is still good to use spray wax after washing the vehicle.

One thing I didn't see you mention is wheels, tires, and trim. You also want to spend great care on these three areas because they create contrast with the paint, thus making the paint look even better. Essentially, you want all aspects of the wheel clean (face, spokes, barrel). You want the tire to be scrubbed with cleaner and then dressed with a water based dressing. You then want to clean the trim with all purpose cleaner and use either dressing or a trim restorer to give it the original look. Good wheel cleaner: Sonax Good APC for tires and trim:Meguair's D101 Good tire dressing: Adam's Super VRT

Anything I have said here is open for constructive discussion.

TL;DR Correcting paint is above everything. Glazes mostly unnecessary. Both sealants and carnauba waxes have their purposes. Look into cleaning and dressing wheels, tires, and trim.

2015 Ford Focus ST

I performed my Express Detail on this 2015 Ford Focus ST for a client. This client emailed me Thanksgiving morning hoping I could help with a gift his best friend "spilled" in his vehicle. I couldn't help him since I was on my way out of town, but I gave him instructions of how to help get the gift out. He ended up booking me to come over when I got back :)

His car is pretty new (a month + if I remember correctly), so my Express Detail was perfect for his vehicle.

This package is my most popular as I believe it's the most bang for your buck (or at least I tried to price it that way).

Products Used:

Wash

• Meg's Gold Class Shampoo
  
• Pressure Washer Foam Cannon
  
• Ryobi Pressure Washer
  
• Microfiber Chenille microfiber mitt
  
  Wheels
  
  
• APC (All Purpose Cleaner)
  
• Lug Nut Brush
  
• Wheel Master Brushes
  
  Decontamination
  
  
• IronX
  
  Clay
  
  
• Nanoskin Fine Sponge
  
• ONR (Lube Dilution)
  
  1-Step
  
  
• HD Speed
  
• Rupes Green Pad
  
  Interior
  
  
• ONR diluted for quick detailer
  
• Costco microfibers
  
• Boars hair brush
  
  Notes
  
  I found out that there is a special trick to putting this car in reverse. It involves lifting the collar below the shift knob. It's actually pretty interesting.
  
  Price: $215 + TIP
  
  Time: 4.5-5 Hours
  
  Thank you for your business fellow redditor :)

This a a copy reply to a post from yesterday with pretty much the same question. This should help. YouTube the "Garry Dean Wash method" and do it that way.
___
Look into towels from The rag Company the [Eagle Edgeless] (https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Professional-Microfiber-Detailing/dp/B00GXRG64I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465578999&sr=8-1&keywords=rag+company) , [platinum pluffle] (https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Professional-Microfiber-Detailing/dp/B01691FHKQ/ref=pd_sim_263_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=51ZnYnkDerL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=T72HWKSGJSNY28KCRR5N) and the [creature edgless] (https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Professional-Dual-Pile-Microfiber/dp/B01CW21D9U/ref=pd_sim_263_23?ie=UTF8&dpID=61mdEodibyL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=4930TCHKYCSNPB5QDMAF) are my favorite. They are just better quality then CG towels and are perfect for using the "Garry Dean" wash method which is good for apartment dwellers.

EDIT: Also look into [WolfGang Uber] (https://www.amazon.com/Wolfgang-WG-3700-Uber-Rinse-less/dp/B017KSJ5ZK/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1465579171&sr=1-1&keywords=wolfgang+uber) rinseless wash. Its more costlier but WELL WORTH it to me. I just got a gallon of it from their website. I use it for my business on some customers vehicles and they notice when I do. Its by far my favorite rinseless out there that I have used. I have tried numerous different ones. [ONRWW] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GG9FB8U/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465708329&sr=sr-1&keywords=optimum+no+rinse+wash+%26+wax) is good, don't get me wrong but I've had it streak and [ONR] (https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1465708329&sr=8-2&keywords=optimum+no+rinse+wash+%26+wax) stains my wash media. I've never had a single issue with WG Uber and it smells like cherry candy. I feel like drinking the bottle every time I use it which makes it great to work with.

First of all, here's a link with some pictures: https://imgur.com/a/DdDMX8f

I just bought this car two weekends ago and I'm stoked. I have washed it once (normal two-bucket method, no polish/wax). I'm going to plan for a more in-depth detail this coming or the following weekend, so I'm planning on making some purchases and wanted to run them by you guys! My general plan is do a foam cannon spray, rest a little bit, rinse, decontaminate w/ Griot's Speed Shine and Griot's Synthetic Clay.

After decontamination, in the long run, I would like to put a coat of CQuartz. Beforehand, obviously, I need to remove as many of the swirls/scratches as possible. I don't have any experience yet with compounding/polishing so do you think I should try it first before buying the CQuartz, or should I just go for it?

Here's what I'd like to buy:

1. Soap - Currently I have a bottle of some basic Meguiars cheap stuff that I was using on my previous old cars. After reading around some, I was going to either go with Gold Class or Optimum Car Wash. CarPro Reset is another option for me as I would like to apply CQuartz eventually so I want something without additives and waxes. Currently I have Optimum Car Wash in my cart, any reason I should go with anything else? I know everyone raves about ONR, but is that more for maintenance washes? Haven't looked into it much yet.
   
2. Snow foam - Chemical Guys Honeydew Snow Foam. I have a small bottle of this and I like the results, so I may buy a gallon unless I'm convinced otherwise!
   
3. Drying Towel - I have plenty of normal microfiber towels for touching up and interior work, but I don't have dedicated large drying towels. The Meguiar's X2000 drying towel was recommended a couple places on the sub and it seems like a good value; but I have heard Griot's is good as well. Any thoughts?
   
4. Polisher - Griot's Garage 6" DA Polisher. From what I have read, this seems to be one of the best-rated entry-level polishers. I haven't done enough research yet to know what type of pads/liquids I will need based on my specific paint, so I'll save those decisions for another day. The car was mostly well taken care of but there are a couple etched spots from what I'm assuming was bird poop or sap. There are a couple pictures in the album of this. Other than that, there seem to be an average amount of "swirl" marks but I'll need to do more research to determine what level of liquid/pads I need. I took the photos in the morning so I didn't have a good light source to show the "swirls".
   
   I already have some good stuff for cleaning wheels and I've been using Griot's Interior Detailer for the interior and it seems to be doing a good enough job. The interior isn't very dirty so just light cleaning suffices.
   
   As for CQuartz prep, before I am more confident in the paint correction process, should I apply a wax after polishing, or will that just make it more of a pain in the ass to decontaminate the paint when I decide to apply CQuartz in the next month or so? FYI, I'm going to be reading the DA polishing guides on this sub before I buy anything related to that.
   
   Any comments or suggestions on things I have selected?
   
   Thanks!

honestly, i wouldn't get either of those. yeah they're both good, but you really don't need all of that.

what i use:

griot's garage clay

meguairs soap

mothers cleaner wax

nu finish

and of course a (or a couple) 5 gallon buckets with a grit guard , which is completely not necessary, but highly recommended by professional detailers. i don't use one, and my car comes out fine. and a good, soft wash mitt. either a good sponge or a wheel brush for your wheels would be needed as well.

my once a year routine is as follows:

wash, claybar, nu polish, cleaner wax

usually wash every 2 weeks or so, and rewax every 6 weeks or so. if i did a bunch of off roading and the paint is gritty i'll clay as needed, but usually it's once a year.

also head over to /r/autodetailing for a lot of tips. beware though that they use a lot of very high end products, and circle jerk over polishing and getting perfect reflections. if all you're looking to do is keeping your paint in good condition, then what i do is just fine. if you're interested in keeping your paint better than factory, follow them.

I'll give my /r/AutoDetailing inspired rundown. I live in an apartment so a lot of this is extra hassle if you have access to water.

2 Bucket (apartment) Method Wash

• 5 gallon bucket of water (w/grit guard)
  
  
• 5 gallon bucket premixed soap and grit guard
  
  
  • Lids for transportation
    
    
• Head down to the local self service wash. The kind with the foamy brush and pressure washer. (ONLY THERE FOR THE WATER)
  
  
• I follow 2 Bucket method above but my process is a bit different since I'm paying for the water.
  
  
  • Clean wheels/wheel wells, exhaust tips, rinse, wet car and remove built up debris/bugs with remaining time
    
    
  • Clean roof, windows, hood, front, rinse
    
    
  • Clean driver side (not bottom), back, passenger side (not bottom), go back and clean bottom of sides, rinse
    
    
    • If time remaining, switch to low pressure for final rinse
      
      
• Dry car and head home!
  
  My personal favorite wax is Collonite #845. I also like Griot's Best in Show since it can be found in big box stores locally.
  
  I would also recommend a paint protection such as Cquartz as extra protection against winters and daily driving.
  
  The absolute #1 rule to keeping your car swirl free, NEVER USE AUTOMATIC CAR WASHES.

Meguiar's D101 is a really cost effective and solid product that can be diluted to interior and exterior concentrations.

Chemical Guys AllClean+ is another good option that can be diluted to interior and exterior concentrations, it also has a light almost fruity smell that I like. Some folks in /r/autodetailing have cooled a bit on Chemical Guys due to their ridiculous marketing and occasionally questionable customer service, but AllClean+ is a pretty solid product.


Ultima Interior Shampoo Gel is a nice, not dilutable product that smells amazing and does a great job on a lot of surfaces. It is less cost effective than the other 2 options but if you arent doing cars in bulk, its a good product.

thanks for the tag /u/solitudechirs

/u/CMDRHailedcaribou91 I highly doubt most car washes would be willing to do that unless its a self serve place.

do you know if that cavalcade is primarily plastic or primarily metal?

for metal polishes (non painted) I can recommend marine 31's metal polish. shit works wonders on oxidized metals!!! (its my go to for non painated)



leather? any car marketed leather cleaner would be fine. I prefer mckees37 or meguiars to be fair.

for plastics I like this. a lot

leahter cleaner here

for learning these microfibers are a good cost effective start and you wont be hurt when they die and you replace them.

I can recommend any mckees37 towels or the rag company microfibers.

this or 3D pink soap (dirt cheap but i love it) is a great soap for washing without stripping waxes!


if you're like me and dont have time to clean...

once you're done. spray this and wash it off and boom bam you're set to go and have a good quality glass silia coating! here

I like mckees products a fair bit ;)

for sake of easy ass waxing I like extender wax but I do also like meguiars quik wax. that stuffs damn cheap but good. sadly its carnuba only :(

as a general rule of thumb anything with meguiars on the label will be a reasonably priced, good mid range product to use on your car, for an average person. not the best in the world but also you cant really go wrong with it.

• i use this for leather
  
  
  
  
  if you are interested
  
  
• This is a good shampoo (Gold Class)
  
  
• this for keeping in the boot for cleaning off the bird shit (do that as soon as you see it no matter how crazy you look in the parking lot (Quick Detailer)
  
  
• this about once a month to keep the paint protected (21 Synthetic Sealant )
  
  
• This for the wash's where i cant be bothered to used the 21. (Spray wax)
  
  (tbh the spray wax and quick detailer can be interchanged, on a technical level they preform slightly different functions, but for the average person who just wants a clean reasonably shiny car it will be fine.)
  
  just make sure any microfiber cloths you use are kept clean and free from grit or you will scratch the paint.
  
  if you are really sad like me give the ammo nyc youtube channel a watch https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SLUuiMnlhc0 i find them very relaxing to watch not sure why, but also shows lot of "best practice" for keeping your car in good condition.

I apologize in advance for this long post. None of these are "must gets", but they are what I got for my 2016 Premium forester. I'm posting this for my own future reference as well as to help some people who are wondering what accessories might be good for their new forester. I highly recommend ordering from Jackie from Annapolis Subaru @ 443-837-1422 as she can get you some good prices on the subaru accessories as well as WeatherTech products! I saved on WeatherTech shipping costs (~$20) by ordering through Jackie and the warranty is the same as if I had bought them through their website.

Please note that some of these accessory links are for my specific car year, model and configuration. I have a 2016 Premium forester without eyesight (affects the Covercraft/heatshield sunshade - they also have eyesight compatible sunshades!).

Also, I personally didn't get my windows tinted, but I think that is something that you should seriously consider doing :)

Speaker kit

Tweeter kit


WeatherTech DigitalFit floorliner (1st & 2nd row)


WeatherTech cargo/trunk liner (without bumper protector)

Weather Tech TechCare floorliner and floormat Cleaner/Protector Kit

Gorilla mud flaps

Covercraft's UVS100 sunscreen - use promo code FREESHIP

Exterior Auto Dimming Mirror w/ Approach Lighting

Luggage Compartment Cover (manual rear gate)

Rear bumper cover

Auto-Dimming Mirror with Compass and HomeLink

Rear Seat Back Protector

Two Home Depot 5 gallon homer bucket

Heatshield sunshade (driver/passenger, second row, rear windshield, sunroof) - note that their website only shows only one side window (driver/passenger), you need to call in to ask them to add the second row side window ones - on my invoice it says part #1425S-A and #1425S-B

Antigravity Batteries AG-XP-10 Multi-Function Power Supply and Jump Starter (check eBay to see if priced cheaper)

Viair 77P Portable Compressor Kit (check eBay to see if priced cheaper)

Amazon stuff:

EZ Pass Holder for VA Flex

Aux cable

Stickershield (parking stickers, etc)

Dropstop seat gap filler (driver/passenger side)

Door panel removal kit (for speaker kit install)

Two grit guards

Microfiber Drying towel

Microfiber cloths (3 pack)

Car wash shampoo

Wheel brush

Resqme (window breaker/seatbelt cutter)

Wheel cleaner

Microfiber wash mitt

Reindeer costume for Christmas

Headrest coat hanger

Road reflective triangles

Duct tape

Odor eliminator

Tire air pressure gauge

OBDII Scanner (Bluetooth)

First aid kit

1. What I advise you to do the following:
   
   1. Get PPF (Paint Protection Film) full front (if you can afford it)
      
   2. After the PPF, get a ceramic coating done. there’s a lot of debate of it’s actually needed or effective but I’ve seen many many cases where either side can be “correct” in the sense you can’t go wrong diy vs. getting it done professionally. There are plenty of people here who have done it themselves but please refer to r/Autodetailing if you’re interested. I choose to get mine done professionally and I don’t regret it one bit. Helps to maintain the car very easy. Here’s a pic after getting ppf and coating done: https://i.imgur.com/v3Lpn9g.jpg
      
2. I use two bucket method (LOT of tutorials on google and youtube) Here’s a list of every single thing related I purchased for doing my own car wash:
   
   1. ONR Solution
      
   2. Chemical Guys MIC_507_06 Professional Grade Premium Microfiber Towel, Gold (16 in. x 24 in.) (Pack of 6)
      
   3. 2 of Meguiar’s X2000 Water Magnet Microfiber Drying Towel, 1 Pack
      
   4. Relentless Drive Ultimate Car Wash Mitt - 2 Pack Extra Large Size - Premium Chenille Microfiber Wash Mitt - Wash Glove - Lint Free - Scratch Free
      
   5. Chemical Guys MIC_7071 Glass and Window Waffle Weave Towel, Red (24 in. x 16 in.)
      
   6. Grit Guard (2x)
      
   7. Solo 418 One-Hand Pressure Sprayer, 1-Liter, Ergonomic Grip for Gardening, Fertilizing, Cleaning & General Use Spraying
      
   8. Windshield Window Cleaner Tool, Unbreakable Extendable Long-Reach Handle, Unique Pivoting Triangular Head, 3 Washable Reusable Microfiber Bonnets, Car & Home Inside Interior Exterior Use - Lint Free
      
   9. Buy 2 5 gallons buckets at Home Depot/Lowe’s
      
3. Tesla should do it for free but some people do end up paying $25-60 but usually free. Hope this helps!

Touchless car washes don't do shit to clean your car. I spent about $8 on that useless machine, and there was still a layer of dirt on my front/rear bumper, side skirts, and grill. Best thing to do if you're on a budget is buy one of these [microfiber wash mitt] (http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-Chenille-Microfiber-Scratch-Free/dp/B003TTL0TE/ref=lp_3020674011_1_2?srs=3020674011&ie=UTF8&qid=1454030316&sr=8-2) and the next time you head over to one of those self service car washes just pre-soak the car and the mit and scrub one panel at a time and rinse off the mitt with the pressure hose.

Edit : If you're not on a budget i would recommend doing the 2 bucket car wash method once a week or so. After about 4-6 months i would clay bar the vehicle and use ONR as a lubricant. There are many sealants out there, but only a few can last nearly 6 months. Chemical guys has some great sealants and waxes, but they have so many that it confuses the shit out of people. Save yourself the hassle and get some Jet Seal, some microfiber applicators and some microfiber towels and you're set.

Edit 2: Here is a list of tested waxes and sealants i found on the interwebs a few weeks back http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=85205

These have been shown to have lasted more than 4 months

"Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection
Chemical Guys: M-Seal, Jetseal 109, Speed Amor
Klasse AIO and Sealant Glaze
Hi Temp Paste
Zaino AIO, Z2 and Z5
Wolfgang Deep Gloss Sealant."

Most of the time I'm living in a flat so what I do it use a quick detailer (US link / UK link) and microfibre (US link / UK link) to keep things clean between proper washes. In fact I keep a bottle of quick detailer and a one of glass cleaner in the car at all times (I wrap a microfibre cloth around the spray head and put the combo in the driver/passenger door pocket).

Basically if you can catch any big, obvious dirt e.g. bird crap, early then it makes things easy.

If you manage to get some time, putting on a good coat of really hard wearing wax (US link / UK link) or sealant (US link / UK link) will be really helpful. It should last a year and make cleaning with quick detailer much easier.


As for the headlights, the yellow colour comes from the plastic oxidising. You need to scrub away that layer and then protect it. Toothpaste works quite well but there are dedicated products like (US link / UK link). Afterwards I'd apply some 303 Aerospace protectant (US link / UK link) which is also great for the interior plastic.

I dunno the science behind it, but I'm pretty sure it loosens the soap/grime easier. It also has a better "barrier", kind of like a lubricant, less contact of your pad/brush/etc on the paint, so there isnt a potential of swirls.

I dunno, its just fun!!

I used Chemical Guys Honeydew Snow Foam

First off. I totally know your feeling and it sucks. Most likely you did not ruin your paint. I would go to a real detail shop in your area and ask for a single stage polish and sealant (or ceramic coat if you can afford it) . Then hand wash or touchless from now on. Then get yourself some Optimum No Rinse and some microfiber towels from The rag company (on amazon). Happy to help with some other tips if needed but there are many great youtube videos. Good luck, it's not ruined!

My parents' neighbor has been watching as I borrow Mom and Dad's hose and he recently asked if I could take on his car and I was happy to oblige! Overall, the exterior was in okay shape - couple bugs, a few spots of tree sap and bird poo, as well as just a good amount of dirt and mud tucked in some spaces. I gave the car a two bucket wash, clay, Iron X treatment, Iron X, clay and topped it off with a sealant. Thanks for pointing out that I listed my procedure out of order, /u/Deadfable! Here's the deets:

Products Used:

• Meguiar's Gold Class Shampoo
  
• Optimum No Rinse (Quick Detailer dilution for claying)
  
• CarPro's Iron X for decontamination
  
• Nanoskin AutoScrub Fine Grade Sponge
  
• Meguiar's D101 (4:1 on tires, wheel wells - 10:1 on the interior)
  
• Aerospace 303 Protectant for interior dressing
  
• Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid Wax
  
• Harbor Freight DA Polisher w/ Buff & Shine 5.5" red pad
  
• Wheel Woolies
  
• Solo Horton Brushes
  
• Other assorted brushes
  
• Microfiber towels from The Rag Company
  

• 0000 Steel Wool from Home Depot (used with QD for the exhaust tips)
  

• Optimum Opti-Bond Tire Gel applied via foam block
  
• Stoner's Invisible Glass
  
  Overall a fun job! Got rewarded with a hearty lunch of sausage and peppers on Italian bread. Happy detailer!!

You could probably get results that approach professional work like this using a couple machines in conjunction. Obviously pro's tools are going to get things that just won't come out otherwise... but time and determination tends to make up most of the gap.

>Steam cleaner: http://www.amazon.com/HomeRight-C800880-SteamMachine-Cleaning-Wallpaper/dp/B00A1B4B58/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1395695083&sr=8-6&keywords=Wagner+steamer

-- Plus --

>Carpet/Upholstery shampoo extractor vacuum: http://www.amazon.com/BISSELL-ProHeat-Compact-Multi-Purpose-14259/dp/B002KCMH6Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395695238&sr=8-1&keywords=Bissel+little+green+machine

I'd probably start with the steam to help loosen the really gnarly spots/stains and move on to the extractor to pull all the gunk out.

Combine that with some good upholstery shampoo and some strong degreaser and some elbow grease with a semi-stiff brush and you could get anything out of your interior.

Wow. I should get into paint correction. <$250 for all the tools and polish and waxes. As a car guy, I don't mind waxing my car every 6 months (or 4 months if you're in the frigid north or are anal). I also feel it's foolish to drop $2k-4k on these nano-quartz-bullshit schemes that a lot of car guys swear by nowadays. If you want to drop $4k on paint protection, go for it, but I can get a full window-out repaint for the same price!

Here's what I learned:

Buy the equipment:

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46

https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Action-Hook-Flexible-Backing-Plate/dp/B0008G1RDK

https://www.costco.com/Kirkland-Signature-Microfiber-Towel-Case%2C-324-count.product.100341124.html

https://www.amazon.com/Collinite-Liquid-Insulator-Wax-845/dp/B000JK2D06

http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country-beveled-pad-kit.html (MIN: 2 orange, 2 white, 1 black, 1 blue -- I prefer doubling this order; Autogeek almost always has 10-25% off coupons on their mailing list)

You will also need an extension wire with the appropriate gauge (too thin/cheap cables might cause you to burn your Porter Cable motor!)


Buy the compounds (start with UC; if swirls aren't getting cut, move up to 50%/50% UC and 105 on the pads; finish with 205 regardless):

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM (medium aggressive)

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B003LMGDHI (most aggressive)

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B001O7PNXC

Wash your car with this, and the two-bucket method:

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7164-Class-Shampoo-Conditioner/dp/B0009IQXFO

https://www.amazon.com/Zwipes-Chenille-Microfiber-Premium-Scratch-Free/dp/B002J7KCOG

Claybar the car:

https://www.amazon.com/YGDZ-Quality-Detailing-Claybar-Shipping/dp/B01MF4BVVS

It took me about 5-6 relaxed hours on a Sunday with a few beers for the full correction. Now I simply top up the wax every few months (and that only takes 30 min).

The thing is, once you do the full correction and get rid of all your swirls and scuffs and whatever clearcoat damage (wash + claybar + M105/UC + M205 + wax), then you don't have to do the FULL correction ever again.

Ever again meaning, if you wash the car properly thereafter with the two-bucket method. You'll simply need to top up the wax once it stops beading -- the wax will protect the clearcoat from damage and swirls.

My wax lasted 6+ months being daily driven in the California sun with three coats of Collinite 845 -- I assume if yours will see more snow and ice and rain, perhaps it'll only last 3-4 months. But since a bottle costs <$20 and you'll get at least 36+ layers out of it, I always recommend this versus the "nano coatings" that people are shelling out $2-4k for.

Here's the Collinite fanboy thread:

https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/40243-collinite-845-definitive-how-guide-legendary-wax.html

Any other questions, feel free to ask. Good luck!

Hello beauty! She looks like a Charles to me lmao

You'll want to get a sun visor for when you leave the car so the seats don't burn your butt? I recommend one like this because it's quirky and cool

And you'll want to protect that ragtop

You'll probably want to have a blanket and umbrella in the trunk (for breakdowns/rain/cold) Keep some sunscreen in there too and wear it even on cold days!

Looks like a good list to start out with. For Meguiars APC I wasn't able to find that locally. I ended up getting AllClean+ by Chemical Guys on Amazon and it was a good concentrate and fairly cheap for 16oz for $8 (Chemical Guys CLD_101_16 All Clean+ Citrus Based All Purpose Super Cleaner (16 oz) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AN7CT4K). I dilute it 10:1 for exterior. U can go 20:1 for interior. The reason I went with it was due to the time for shipping on Meguiars APC (wasn't prime). Also I picked up Stoners Invisible Glass at target for super cheap in case you don't want an entire gallon of Meguiars.

I also did a post with my entire list of stuff I used for my maintenance wash and got most of it from Amazon (not Adams chemicals since it is not Prime). Feel free to get ideas of products and different parts from there. Would highly recommend empty spray bottles if you are buying a lot of concentrated products. Link: https://m.reddit.com/r/AutoDetailing/comments/4g96kb/my_first_maintenance_wash_w_product_list/

How to: Clean, Polish, and Protect Exhaust tips

Note: Please check what kind of metal your exhaust tips are before choosing a metal polish.

1. Gather your tools (picture 2). In my case, I am using Chemical Guys All Clean + (undiluted), a speedmaster jr. brush, 0000 steel wool, water, and the BriteMax twins from Detail Box.
   
2. Spray the APC onto the exhaust pipes and little bit on the brush (picture 3 & 4).
   
3. Agitate the pipes, inside and out (picture 5).
   
4. I like to spray a little water on before wiping away the APC (picture 7).
   
5. Wipe away with a microfiber. Use one that you don’t mind throwing away afterwards – they will be veeeery dirty (pictures 8 & 9)
   
6. Take your steel wool and dab a bit of metal polish on it. I like to rip up the steel wool into smaller more workable pieces (pictures 11 & 12).
   
7. Scrub the inside and outside of the tailpipes. You can add a little extra APC here if you want (picture 13).
   
8. After you are satisfied, protect the exhaust by adding a metal polish (picture 18).
   
   This process is a lot easier than you think. A clean and polished exhaust piece really adds a bit of pop to the car. Regular upkeep will keep future cleanings much easier as always!
   
   
   Chemical Guy's All Clean +
   
   Jr. Speedmaster Brush
   
   0000 Steel Wool can be found OTC
   
   Britemax Easy Cut
   
   Britemax Final Shine

First of all, do NOT submerge the hard drive or even soak it because it is not airtight or watertight but has some tiny holes that can let in liquids. Keep the hard drive and any optical drives dry, and just wipe off their exteriors with a damp paper towel.

To clean the case and electronics, you can use
aerosol electronic parts cleaner that's rated as safe for all plastics, something like THIS (available at hardware stores, auto parts stores, and even Walmart). Do not use other chemicals, like brake parts cleaner, which can dissolve plastics. Hold circuit boards and even the case at slight angles so the liquid will run off and not pool. Spray into the sockets -- DIMMs, PCI-E, USB. Let everything dry very, very thoroughly before applying power again, at least 24 hours. A car parked in the sun with the windows only slightly opened can bake everything at over 100-120 degrees F. Take precautions against generating static electricity, i.e., put the motherboard into a metallic bag (not on it -- those bags are usually anti-static only inside), but to let moisture escape, don't seal it.

I'd get a fine grade nanoskin mitt or something similar for decon. Maybe a foam gun or foam lance and some soap. Might want to grab an APC for interior cleaning, although I think you can dilute ONR down as an APC... I really like Optimum APC though, very safe and effective.

I saw this today on slickdeals, choose subscribe & save to get it down to $13.35: 1-Gallon Chemical Guys Maxi-Suds II Super Suds Car Wash

I typed up a reply but it seems to have disappeared. Sorry if this is a repost.

It could be anything from trash in the button to the button falling off of the circuit board or a shorted trace. Without seeing the innards, it's really hard to say.

HOWEVER, I've fixed an amazing amount of gear simply by spraying it with contact cleaner.

Take the battery out, get as close as you can to the board, if that's not possible, just spray around the edges of the button from the outside, some cleaner should get in there.

As you're spraying liberally, click the button a ton of times. Something like 50 presses. Give it a minute or two to let the cleaner evaporate (shouldn't take long) and then power it back up and give it a shot.

There's a good chance this will do the trick.

Let me know if it works :)

Rail dust from transport is very common on new cars and may or may not shot up as small orange specs. It can be removed with a clay bar as suggested, but whenever possible it's best to avoid physical contact with the paint. So in this case a chemical decon such as IronX would be your best bet. And a bonus, it has a unique smell.

• Meguiar's Gold Class Car Wash
  
• Meguiar's NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0
  
• Simple green (for the wheels)
  
  Always use a wash mitt (do not use a sponge), dry with a chamois, and always work in the shade. I also use the 2 bucket method with grit guards. Basic vid here (there are much better ones out there but it's a pretty easy method to grasp)
  
  Hope this helps!

I have never used tuff stuff, but I have had good success with Meguairs APC

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D10101-Detailer-Purpose-Cleaner/dp/B0006SH4GE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469057081&sr=8-1&keywords=d101

Another decent one is 303 multi surface cleaner/303 spot cleaner.

http://www.detailedimage.com/303-M2/Cleaner-Spot-Remover-P15/32-oz-S1/

The process is pretty much the same regardless of which cleaner, You spray it on, agitate it, then blot with a microfiber towel.

If that doesn't work you could try using a steam cleaner

I'm fairly new, myself. I've driven clunkers most of my life. Spent about five years downtown where I didn't have a car. Now I'm back in suburbia, so I've got a brand new GTI, and it's the first one I've ever cared to take good care of. Here's what I started with:

• Meguiar's D101 APC - the D103 APC+ has apparently been discontinued.
  
• Two Chemical Guys detailing bucket kits, which each have a bucket, lid, grit guard, 16oz citrus wash, and some washing pad thing I didn't really want.
  
• Two-pack of Rag Company Dry Me a River towels
  
• Five-pack of Rag Company detailing towels
  
• Bottle of Stoner Invisible Glass
  
• Two-pack of Griot's Garage microfiber wash mitts
  
• A Nanoskin wash mitt
  
• 32oz Optimum No Rinse Wash and Wax - for use as a quick detailer and easy maintenance washing.
  
• Lexol leather care kit
  
• Thee-pack of spray bottles
  
• A microfiber window towel
  
• A cheap electric blower
  
• 16oz Chemical Guys Jetseal
  
• Microfiber applicators
  
  I should have picked up some of Chemical Guys' citrus wash and clear, too, to help deal with a winter's worth of grime left by terrible touchless car washes. I've also got a tire brush, hand vacuum, and some assorted cheap microfiber towels around already.
  
  Your kit looks a lot more cost-effective, though. Throw in some cheap buckets, grit guards, wash mitts, and drying towel, and an extra stack of cheap microfibers and you're still under $100 for practically everything you would need for a proper two-bucket wash and wax.

> I do a general hand clean with a tiny bit of dish soap then throw them in the washing machine

Yikes. I've always read to never use over the counter soaps, as that will lead to what you're experiencing.

I've used this before and it works great. You may be able to save some more towels by using this. Mine come out pretty flawless. And feel brand new.

However, I do not recommend putting your MF you use on your wheels into the mix.

Only hand wash, all the time, lovingly, with microfiber everything. It's going to be your new hobby, and on a car this size, takes less time than you would think to do it right.

Here is my amazon list, a lot of stuff has subscribe and save deals, everything Chemical Guys has been top notch.

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_493-Microfiber-Scratch-Free/dp/B003TTL0TE/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225930&sr=8-10&keywords=chemical+guys

http://www.amazon.com/303-30520-Convertible-Fabric-Cleaning/dp/B000A8JNF0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226066&sr=8-1&keywords=303+aerospace+protectant+convertible

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_506_12-Professional-Microfiber/dp/B00A8MZ7IA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225930&sr=8-3&keywords=chemical+guys

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-CWS_301-Citrus-Concentrated/dp/B004K9KETY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225930&sr=8-6&keywords=chemical+guys

http://www.amazon.com/Collinite-Liquid-Insulator-Wax-845/dp/B000JK2D06/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225985&sr=8-1&keywords=collinite+insulator+wax OR http://www.amazon.com/Collinite-No-Super-Doublecoat-Auto/dp/B000AP8DZY/ref=pd_sbs_263_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=51Nde%2B7iakL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0KRY8VA4QS2RZE3XG1R5

http://www.amazon.com/Viking-862400-Blue-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B0051MYL8E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226014&sr=8-2&keywords=microfiber+applicator

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-TVD_109_16-Sprayable-Dressing/dp/B001TI1F5Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226032&sr=8-3&keywords=chemical+guys+tire+shine

http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-155700-Wheel-Brush/dp/B001GJ3DZS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226178&sr=8-1&keywords=tire+brush

Perfect job for Simple Green. For your unrelated project I would actually recommend Meguiar's D101 APC. Dilute 10:1 or 4:1 and you have an awesome cleaner for much cheaper than Simple Green. When using 10:1 you'll get 10 gallons! Its hard to beat that price.

Simple Green has a very strong chemical smell and when used on a large area the smell doesn't go away easily.

Thanks!

I'm definitely a rookie that's been watching youtube videos to learn and haven't really spend much on tools.

Foam Cannon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WPKHFA6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Pressure Washer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NBVBT3I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

As a test run I used Meguiar's Gold Class: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7164-Class-Shampoo-Conditioner/dp/B0009IQXFO/ref=sr_1_7?crid=BG425GLTKNPI&keywords=meguiars+gold+class+car+wash&qid=1555861387&s=gateway&sprefix=meguiars+gold+c%2Clawngarden%2C144&sr=8-7

​

Honestly, the result vs effort in this method is really good. It's not a spot on wash but it was a quick wash and cleaned up nicely overall. I will definitely keep working this method in the future.

I bought a new 50th Anniversary Camaro, which has a Matte section on the hood. I've been searching and reading the wiki, and just want to verify or get better recommendations than what I think I've found.

I first need to wash the car with a matte wash, so I don't get any glossifiers or waxes on the matte section. I found Chemical Guys CWS_995_16 Meticulous Matte Auto Wash, but wasn't sure if there were other recommendations.
After that, I should use a matte sealant like Chemical Guys WAC_203_16 Blue JetSeal Matte Sealant and Paint Protectant.
Then for touch-ups use Chemical Guys SPI_995_16 Meticulous Matte Detailer and Spray Sealant.
With that done, I should tape off the matte section, and care for the rest of the car with regular wax, clay, and sealant as covered in various threads and the wiki here. For the tape, I see some recommend 3M 233+ painter's tape, while others say CarPro Masking Tape. Is there a significant difference between them?

Does that sound correct?

Simple Green is your friend.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017D1GG6?ref_=wms_ohs_product&redirect=true&psc=1&pldnSite=1

This ^ will last you a long time. I clean my discs with it to remove the squeak also.

This http://www.amazon.com/Park-CM-5-2-Cyclone-Chain-Scrubber/dp/B007HDNOT2/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1398709921&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=park+tool+chain+cleaner plus simple green = a super chain cleaning.




Also a little car paint detailer keeps it shiny shiny.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQXAE?ref_=sr_1_cc_2&s=aps&qid=1398709624&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=meguires%20detailer&pldnSite=1

Just spray it into a rag and not directly onto the frame to prevent over spray on the discs/pads.

As others have mentioned, a good lube (Boeshield T9 for example) should be matched to your riding conditions and applied.

http://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1398709998&sr=1-1&keywords=boeshield+t-9

Yep, that's exactly it. Get a 32oz bottle of it and just dilute it at 1:16 with distilled water. You can use it to clean the wheel, as well as the other interior parts. It works great on the faux carbon fiber because other interior cleaners with UV protectants leave streaks that are hard to get off the shiny plastic. The ONR works great, you can use it to quickly wipe off the outside of your car too.

Have you ever tried rinse-less carwash? I live in an apartment complex without a car washing bay and it has saved my life. Super easy to use and all you need is a bucket of water and a good amount of microfiber towels!


https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1A5MPFJXPB92&keywords=rinseless+car+wash&qid=1567781917&s=gateway&sprefix=Rinseless+car%2Caps%2C217&sr=8-4

I would check with r/autodetailing first, but I think they like automotive specific all purpose cleaner and an interior brush. I use this https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D10101-Detailer-Purpose-Cleaner/dp/B0006SH4GE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1505776624&sr=8-3&keywords=Car+all+purpose+cleaner I don't know if it's the best, but autodetailing recommended it and I got it. It seems to work. You can wet dry vac it out.

You want a non-rinse all-purpose cleaner/surfactant. Folex is one, Meguiars D101 is another.

Apply a bit, agitate with a soft upholstery brush, wipe up with a microfiber cloth.

Note: The D101 is a professional product which you dilute for use. If you want a ready-to-use version, try this, but you've just given up your ability to alter the dilution ratio. At 4:1, this stuff is a good tire cleaner and all around "clean anything that's not paint" cleaner. At 10:1 it's an interior cleaner. That big bottle will last you a long time.

Am I on the right track? I am currently looking for all the products I need to completely detail my car. I know there is no way I could purchase all of these at once, so I am planning on purchasing the major ones first and adding the others over time. I have spent almost two weeks researching on everything I need to do. There is so much information and so many opinions that it is hard to find a definitive answer on what I need.

> Wheel

Wheel soap:

• Meguiar's Non-Acid Wheel & Tire Cleaner D143
  
  Wheel cleaner:
  
  
• Sonax Wheel Cleaner Plus
  
  Tire dressing:
  
  
• Optimum Opti-Bond Tire Gel
  
  Wheel wax:
  
  
• Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax #845
  
  > Paint
  
  Paint soap:
  
  
• Meguiar's Gold Class Car Wash Shampoo & Conditioner
  
  Paint soap addition:
  
  
• Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine
  
  Leaf blower:
  
  
• Worx Turbine WG520
  
  Clay bar:
  
  
• YGDZ Auto Detailing Magic Claybar
  
  Dual action polisher:
  
  
• Heavy Duty Dual Action Variable Speed Polisher from Harbor Freight
  
  Backing plate:
  
  
• Astro 5" PU Velcro Backing Pad
  
  Pad:
  
  
• Lake Country 5.5" CCS Orange Polishing Pad
  
  
• Lake Country 5.5" CCS White Smart Pad
  
  
• Lake Country 5.5" CCS Black Finessing Pad
  
  Compound:
  
  
• Meguiar's M105 Mirror Glaze Ultra-Cut Compound
  
  Polish:
  
  
• Meguiar's M205 Mirror Glaze Ultra Finishing Polish
  
  Sealant/wax:
  
  
• Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax #845
  
  > Interior
  
  Carpet cleaner:
  
  
• Adam's Carpet & Upholstery Cleaner
  
  Dashboard cleaner:
  
  
• Nextzett Cockpit Premium or Meguiar's Ultimate Interior Detailer
  
  Leather cleaner:
  
  
• Nextzett Cockpit Premium or Meguiar's Ultimate Interior Detailer
  
  Leather conditioner:
  
  
• Lexol Leather Deep Conditioner
  
  Glass cleaner:
  
  
• Rain-X Glass Cleaner
  
  There are a bunch of other tools not listed here, but the ones listed above are the areas I am most concerned about.
  
  > Other Concerns
  
  I am still anxious about spraying water in my engine bay, so I decided to use a spray bottle with soap and water and a microfiber towel to wipe down the engine bay while it is still decently clean. Can I use diluted Meguiar's D143 or will I have to purchase Meguiar's D101 instead? Can the Optimum Tire Gel be used on the black plastics of the engine bay, as well as the other black trims of my car?
  
  I want to protect my interior, in addition to cleaning it. I am very confused on what product I need to use to protect my dashboard from the sun. The same goes for the leather seats, where the creases are forming. I have been using a conditioner (although I am unsure of the exact name) to slow down the crease formation. Should I use the same product for both the dashboard and leather seats (with Lexol Conditioner on top of that)? I have heard of Leatherique Leather Rejuvenator/Prestine Clean, but I am unsure of when I should use that.

To be perfectly honest, I just started getting into the whole detailing community and have been learning a ton over the past week!

I just purchased my essential supplies and chemicals for a nice starter kit. See my thread.

I still need to get a number of items to complete my basic kit:

• Foam Gun
  
• Clay Kit
  
• Sealant
  
• Wax
  
• Leather Cleaner / Conditioner
  
  I am looking at the Chemical Guys Black Light sealant/finish and Collinite #845 as a sealant/wax hybrid.
  
  I received good recommendations for both of these products. I will use the Chemical Guys Ultra Plush MF (1024_3) for buffing. I will probably get some Meguiar's MF applicator pads for actual product application.

Okay. First off, I'm a newb so take my advice with a grain of salt.

Basic detailing goes like this

1. Wash / Dry car
   
2. Clay bar
   
3. Polish [multi-step = (Cutting -> Polishing -> Finishing)]
   
4. Wax (remove)
   
   You can google / youtube for detailed instructions on each step.
   
   I use a Porter Cable for application / removal
   
   For polishing, it can be a multiple levels of polish. Think of polish as a really fine sand paper in a liquid. Wipe immediately any that you get on plastic / rubber.
   
   They make different applicator pads and compound for different levels.
   
   They make buff pads for removing wax
   
   For black plastic /rubber you can use [Mother's Back to Black](http://www.amazon.com/MOTHERS-6112--Black-
   Plastic-Restorer/dp/B00GZLMEN4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417395899&sr=8-2&keywords=back+to+black)
   
   Buy a shitload of microfiber towels.
   
   You can get 99% of what you need at Autozone. Once you start getting professional, then maybe you need to go online to get the good stuff. I don't know.
   
   
   What you can do is experiment. Wash / Dry / Clay only the hood. Then use painter's tape and divide the hood into four sections. Experiment with the different levels of polish in each quadrant so you can see the different. Experiment with different application removal styles etc until you're happy with the results then repeat on the whole car.

Got an easy detailing guide for beginners? I know /r/AutoDetailing exists, but there's a lot of info to get through there. I just got some of this stuff and it seems to work pretty well, but don't know much about waxing/clay baring or anything like that.

I would pick up the following, if you are ready for machine polishing, you will need to pick up a DA polisher and pads as well.

• Nanoskin Wash Mitt - Clay alternative
  
  
• Grit Guards - 2 of them for each 5 gallon bucket. This will keep the swirls from coming back after you correct them.
  
  
• Meguiar's D101 APC Gallon - This is a great wallet friendly APC which can be diluted for different tasks.
  
  

If you're looking to do a long term value purchase, here's a great setup I can recommend! You may even already have some of these products reducing from the investment cost!
Electric Pressure Washer - $89

Snow Foam Cannon Attachment - $17.88

Shammy / Chamois Towel of Your Choice* - $8.25

Shammy / Chamois help you remove the water off a car so you can go ahead and start waxing once its dry.

1 Gallon of Snow Foam - $29.99

22 Oz Spray Wax Bottle - $12.99

Any pack of microfiber towels, spray like 2 sprays of wax on the microfiber, wipe around, take another microfiber to wipe away wax. $4

1 Gallon Acid / Non-Acid Based Wheel Cleaner (This one is acidic) - $18.99
Dilute the wheel cleaner, spray on the wheels and tires, let it sit for a little bit, then pressure wash off.

Add a clay bar if you want to get embedded dirt / brake dust off your paint! It's easy to do, costs a little, but the results are worth it.


THESE ARE MOSTLY PREMIUM CLEANING PRODUCTS! You can cut a few dollars off by going with more generic products. Why go with Gallons? You dilute all of these (except wax of course), so they will last you a looooooooooooooooong time if used correctly.

The investment is worth it if you ask me, instead of going through your local 1 minute wash for $10 or whatever, you can do a more thorough job yourself!

Definitely give Sonax Full Effect Wheel Cleaner a try. I have had amazing success with this stuff. It will turn from green to red as it is working and breaking down iron particles and break dust.


Also, you can give either CarPro's Iron-X or TRIX (Tar and Iron Remover) a try.

Honestly, by looking at the picture, the Sonax should clean up the break dust and those streaks. Just let it sit on the wheel for a couple minutes and agitate it with a brush. I use this brush to get in behind the spokes as well.

As far as keeping brake dust from accumulating as quick, I'm not sure if there's really a remedy. You can wax your rims, there is stuff out there specifically made for rims, but I've never used it, so I'll let someone with experience speak on that. However, I read the other day someone used Collinite #845 Insulator Wax on their rims (same wax I use). I may give this a try next time I wash the car and see if it helps control the brake dust.

I love Larry's videos from AMMO NYC & DRIVE Clean and have always followed his recommendations for detailing/washing.

• 2 Home Depot buckets with grit guards, microfiber cloths & wash mitt, waffle drying cloth
  
• soap -> [Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine](https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=pd_sim_263_2? (you can u_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00D8DR0AO&pd_rd_r=FM515CNNWHKECR3HGYQ8&pd_rd_w=L1qpT&pd_rd_wg=YSRMs&psc=1&refRID=FM515CNNWHKECR3HGYQ8) (I dilute this and use it as the "clay" lubricant as well)
  
• "clay" -> Nanoskin Autoscrub (works well enough, more cost effective than real clay)
  
• seal -> Chemical Guys Jet Seal
  
• wax -> Meguiar's
  
  
  

I love it. Spray it on, rub it in with my spoke brush, and power wash it off. The wheels come out perfectly clean.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004UM6DLE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482198400&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=carpro+iron+x&dpPl=1&dpID=31Fqwzjw6oL&ref=plSrch

If anyone has lots of scratches/defects in their paint, here are a couple steps that really make a huge difference for a total of ~$25:

• Wash car with Meguiar's Gold Car Wash ($7)
  
• Apply Meguiar's Ultimate Compound ($14) which will clean and polish your paint job and remove scratches/oxidation.
  
• Wax paint with Turtle Wax ($6) to get a clean shine and protection against the elements
  
• Buy some Mother's Back-to-Black Plastic & Trim Restorer ($8) and use to restore plastic trim to something closer to its original condition.

They have a good selection and reasonable prices. The TTX brand controllers there are pretty good, not quite as nice as the Sony controllers but they worked with my stuff so far if you want new ones instead of used again. Try taking the controller apart though and cleaning it... http://www.instructables.com/id/Clean-Your-DualShock-Controller/?ALLSTEPS be sure to put the R2 L2 buttons back in after assembly and they will work with out having to try multiple times, they just snap back in after cleaning. Sometimes this works.

Edit:
You could also try contact cleaner with the unit unplugged, spay it into the controller port and controller plug http://www.amazon.com/CRC-05101-QD-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000CCMLD0

So Try,
Cleaning controllers, new controller, cleaning ports, and if those all fail, then its then most likely the system but they are pretty robust as others have stated

I've posted my list before:

Car Wash Shampoo: Chemical Guys Maxi Suds II Amazon link

Quick Detailer: Chemical Guys High Gloss Spray Sealant & Quick Detailer Amazon Link

Wax/Sealant (every 6 months): Blackfire Pro Paint Protection (previously Blackfire Wet Diamond All Paint Protection) Amazon Link

Clay Bar (every 12 months): Simoniz S57 Perfect Finish Detailing Clay Amazon Link

Clear Plastics (head/tail lights): Plexus Plastic Cleaner & Protectant Amazon Link

Plastic/Vinyl/Rubber/Leather: 303 Aerospace Protectant Amazon Link

Door/Trunk/Frunk Seals: 303 (above) or Nextzett Gummi Pflege Rubber Conditioner Amazon Link

Glass: Stoner Invisible Glass Amazon Link


Wheels: Griot's Garage Wheel Cleaner Amazon Link

Tires: Aero Low Shine Rubber Care Amazon Link

Go to Amazon and order this (I like Meg's products),

• Harbor Freight DA
  
  
• Meg's Endurance Tire Gel
  
  
• Meg's Ultimate Protectant
  
  
• Meg's Ultimate Liquid Wax
  
  
• Meg's APC
  
  
• Rag Company's Borderless Blonde
  
  
• Rag Company's Waffle Weave
  
  
• Hex Logic White Pad (3)
  
  
• Hex Logic Orange Pad (2)
  
  
• Hex Logic Red Pad (2)
  
  
• M105
  
  
• M205
  
  
• 3M Auto Tape
  
  
• Mother's Wheel Brush
  
  
• ABN Woolies
  
  
• Trim Brush
  
  
• Chem Guys Wash Mitt (2)
  
  
• Mother's Clay Bar Kit
  
  This should run you about $345 for everything and have you setup to take care of your car for a long time. You can find a 20% discount code online for harbor freight to bring the price down $55 for the DA. Go to home depot and buy a couple buckets and you will be good to go.
  
  Edit: To add, I went to Lowes and bought a cheap inline sprayer for my hose and it works fine for foaming up the vehicle, plus it only costs $5.
  
  Edit2: If you are going to downvote me please post why you don't like my recommendation.

This is great advice. The one step I'd add would be, if at all possible, to use a purpose made contact/PCB cleaning spray on the PCB before reassembly. This will safely and effectively remove any conductive deposits left from the water and drive out any remaining moisture. You may find after disassembly that the rubber membrane kept any crap from getting on the PCB, in which case you might be ok without, but you've gotten this far so....

It's not terribly expensive. Amazon is a good example. You can find the same kind of thing locally at a car parts place or maybe even a radioshack.

Depends on your budget. I use CarPro Reset shampoo as it cleans extremely well. However, you can also use Meguiars Gold Class and it does quite well. For wax, I would stay away from paste waxes. Find a good liquid wax as it spreads thinner which makes removal easier. Alternatively, if you want the same protection, if you do order from CarPro, pick up their Hydr02 Lite, which is a spray sealant that lasts just as long as wax. Just spray it on while wet, and rinse with high pressure. Protection for 3-4 months. Links below:

Reset - https://www.carpro-us.com/wash/carpro-reset-car-wash-500ml-17oz/

Hydr02 - https://www.carpro-us.com/coatings-sealants-spray-wax/carpro-hydro2-lite-1-liter/

Meguiars Gold Class - https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7164-Class-Shampoo-Conditioner/dp/B0009IQXFO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1549208569&sr=8-5&keywords=meguiars+gold+class+car+wash

You can get CarPro from Amazon but its more expensive. Hope this helps!

Pick up some of this

It smells absolutely awful but it will remove the iron deposits in the paint and wheels and leave a cleaner surface to work with. I would clay bar the paint after as well. It sprays on clear and turns purple when it is working. Well worth the price especially since you can use it to remove brake dust from your wheels during washes.

The shininess of wet tumbling seems to be largely contingent on which cleaning agents you put in the water. I've had excellent luck with good car wash soap - https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7164-Class-Shampoo-Conditioner/dp/B0009IQXFO. After 3 hours in my FA tumbler, the brass comes out extremely shiny inside and out, even the primer pockets are shiny.

If you're not crashing, you're not flying fast enough ;-)

For those of us who crash often into dust/dirt/sand/grass, I recommend the following:

• Bring a can of compressed air with you when you fly. This will be the first step for removing debris from your mini motors.
  
  
• I REALLY like this plastic-safe electronics cleaner, and it seems to do an excellent job of removing sand [errr, what?] from my motors after I've thoroughly sprayed them out with the compressed air. Most bearings are sealed so you won't need to worry about degrading the bearing lubricant. That being said I try to use as little spray as possible.
  
  Hope this helps!

Been going back and forth on the coating. I did watch some youtube before started and did the two bucket method. From my research it looks like if you just wax it every 3-4 months it should have near the same protection as ceramic. I do have the stuff to diy cermaic coating saved in my Amazon cart though. Was thinking about giving it a go.

Used this wash and wax from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D8DR0AO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O7PNS2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

What do you mean by air blower/sheeting? I have tried an air compressor and the pressure is just too high and breaks up the beads of water bit doesn't really blow them off. But yeah I need to get the buckets and grit guards and the sheepskin wash mitt. I have been using a microfiber sponge thing kind of like this. What kind of cloth do you recommend for applying wax and what brand wax? I have been using some wax that came with the vehicle but I'm just about out and I've been applying it with some microfiber wax applicator towels from O'Reill. Also how often should I wash the wax applicators and how?

I was just at Walmart and picket up some of this, not sure if it's recommended or not. I also got one of these but I'm not really sure of the purpose of it, I just keep hearing people talking about using "clay bar"¿?.

Sorry for the wall of questions, but like I said I'm really new to this and would greatly appreciate of you could answer most of them (if not all)

Sure thing. This is the stuff I used. You can probably pick up something similar at Radio Shack, Best Buy or better yet a local electronics store.

I recommend not starring the car at all. All those little stickers can be pretty hard to get off, and may cause slight damage.

Also, I doubt that your paint is swirl free. If you are asking a no0b question (which is fine), you probably aren't looking correctly. The dealership yo-yo that washed your car probably caused a bit of swirling. Your white car will be exceptionally good at covering it, and that one guy can't do that much damage.

You don't need this porter thing. Check out the DetailedImage link over there ( I would not buy directly from them as they charge way, way too much. Find the products on Amazon or something).--->

You only need the power tools if you're going to polish/compound (which are exclusively for removing paint imperfections). But don't get too excited about not spending money, as you have sealant and wax to get.

The pads you need are applicator pads (not pads used on power tools). They are pads used to apply sealant and wax. Applying sealant, and then wax is what you do to protect your paint. Keep in mind that you'll need enough microfibers to dry your car AND wipe off excess sealant/wax. Also keep in mind washing the microfibers in such a way that won't destroy them (Never use fabric softener.).

Suggestions if you have no idea where to start: great sealant, pr0saws 1337 haxzorz wax, good clay bar, sweet clay lube, Microfiber detergent

All this advice comes at a price, of course: posting your before washing and after pics

Don't use a carwash was that uses those rubbery bands that slide across your car. Those cause micro scratches that can easily be seen on a black car. Take your car to a carwash that hand washes the car or you can use the two-bucket method to wash the car yourself.

Between washes (black cars get dusty quick!) I take my car to an automatic carwash that uses just a water spray and dry it down carefully with quick detailer and good quality microfiber cloth.

This stuff is pretty good at cleaning electronic connections. Also very useful for old stereo pots

Because of the Prime Day deals I decided to pick up a few different products without knowing too much. I bought: Optimum No Rinse, Mothers Clay Bar System, Microfiber Clothes, Liquid Wax Paint Sealant, and Hybrid Wax.

My quick understanding is that the recommended process is: wash > clay > wash > wax. In terms of these products, does that mean:

ONR wash > Mothers Clay (should I use their lube or just the ONR water?) > ONR wash > Liquid Wax > Hybrid Wax

Just want to make sure I follow the right order so I can start to keep my car in good shape. How often should I clay? What about the sealant and the wax?

Thanks!

Link for anyone looking. Can confirm this stuff is awesome. I like that it allows me to wash my car in the garage out of the sun. It can also be mixed stronger to make a quick detailer.

Yes!

I am reminded by your post to share this stuff as well: Optimum No Rinse

It's for the outside of your car, but it requires no water and works WONDERS. Every time I use it I'm like, "I need to spread the word on this shit!!!" (It's also highly concentrated, and a single teaspoon makes a GALLON.)

I put it in a spray bottle and mostly use it for touch-ups, and it's better than Windex for windows.

This seems like the best bet..Unfortunately I can't find the Klima cleaner on Amazon anymore.. it says "Currently unavailable.
We don't know when or if this item will be back in stock."

I guess this is the same thing:
Lubegard 96030 Kool-It Evaporator and Heater Foam Cleaner

This stuff should do the job. It's an amazing degreaser, and doesn't leave a mess and won't ruin your flooring. It's entirely clear.

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05101-QD-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000CCMLD0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1479920047&sr=8-2&keywords=electro+contact+cleaner

Ditch the Shamois and get a microfiber drying towel, like a waffle weave texture. Huge difference.

For hard water, try adding a cap full of Optimum No Rinse Wash and Shine to your bucket of soap. If helps soften the water. https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO/

When you dry, add a single spray of a quick detailer or instant wax to each panel, and use that as a drying aid. Helps a lot.

I'd also recommend to dry as much as you can first with an air compressor or leaf blower, just remove as much water as possible first before you get it with a towel.

I think it’s a pretty affordable way to maintain your car. I use the Optimum ONR - No Rinse Wash
And some basic supplies

• Wash mit
  
• microfiber towels for drying
  
• 2 buckets of water (one for the solution the other to rinse out the mit)
  
  I can provide a full list of anyone interested.
  
  Tons of videos online to help you along.

I totally get what you mean. For bird poop removal I use ONR diluted to 2oz to a gallon in a spray bottle. Or just do a regular wash and when the mf towel touches the poop I put it in the dirty towel bucket and grab a new one.

For claying I use ONR diluted the same as before and what ever clay I have on hand most of the time it is the meguiars you can buy at the auto store.

For regular soap I use Adam's car shampoo (the blue one) I love this stuff in a bucket or foamer it works amazing for both.

Interior I mostly use onr in what ever dilution I have the most of at that time.

For cleaning glass I use the method Larry for AmmoNYC uses. Invisible glass works wonders for me but if it does not work for you don't be afraid to try other products. fine tuning your process will be trial and error of new products.

If you don't have a bottle of ONR already I would pick one up I use it every time I detail vehicle. You can find it on amazon here
https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=onr&qid=1569990842&sr=8-1

But the biggest tip I can give anyone that is starting out is to drink water during detailing.

Hope this helps.

Interesting, so I guess I will save the bays for actual dirt and grime then.

So I will need a bucket, some ONR wash (Is this diluted with water?), a drying aid, and a drying towel. What exactly is a drying aid, is that like a product?

Will these works?

ONR

NO.1 Wash mitts

NO.1 Drying Towels

Also, you said you do a quick 10 minute wipe down, is that the process you use? Or do you have another touch up product or something?

Thank you by the way!

Looks great! I've been using [Optimum No Rinse] (https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1526843835&sr=1-1&keywords=onr) and am very happy with it. Saw it on this [Like Tesla] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ANVHPOL-rI) video.

I’m not blindly defending anything. I’ve had numerous problems with my Model 3, all fixed with mobile service, none of which I had with previous vehicles.

It’s a first generation car. Issues, big and small, come with the territory. Escalating something like mildew and dirty cabin air filters into calling it a design flaw, note the italics for extra out of proportion emphasis, per previous posts, is pretty minor, grand scheme.

Sounds like you’re more twisted about paying for it. If that’s the case, I get it. They should fix it for free due to their beta testing on customers. But they haven’t. If it’s totally un-drivable (blown out of relative aforementioned proportion), sell it. If it’s a minor nuisance, you can get a kit for $99 USD (or piece meal it yourself, $16) and do it yourself. It can’t be that hard.

Anyway, downvote as needed, it doesn’t change my view.

edit: links

I use the two bucket method and Optimum No-Rinse(ONR). It does a fantastic job, doesn't scratch, doesn't pull the wax off.

Of course, if your car is really gritty make sure to go and power-wash it at Lynn's first. Just go in, and do a quick and dirty there for $5 and then finish up at home with ONR and take your time.

Make sure you have a grit guard installed in your rinse bucket and use a good quality wash mitt and plenty of microfiber towels.

This picture is very flattering. At the moment the trim is faded a little bit.

I've had good luck woth Mothers brand "back to black" you have to reapply every 3-6 months though

Edit: Mothers 06112 Back-to-Black Plastic and Trim Restorer - 12 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GZLMEN4/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_NrbLxb0MWADR6

Mist the spots with a 50:50 blend of distilled white vinegar and DISTILLED water.

Wipe with a clean dry MF towel.

If you have hard water from your taps, I’d recommend switching to a rinseless wash with Optimum No Rinse Wash and Shine.

If you’re only washing 1 vehicle, you just need 1 gallon of distilled water in a bucket and .5oz of ONR and either the Optimum Big Red Sponge, or a fair number of decent MF towels (google the Garry Dean method).

https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO

ONR is all I use to wash my VW, my wife’s 4Runner, and my Dad’s Lexus.

Rinseless is the way to go. Saves time, saves water, better for the environment.

r/autodetailing if you want to learn more (read the wikis before posting questions)

Nice ride. I myself have a 2015 Mazda 3 GT. I use Lexol for cleaning and conditiong (protecting) leather. Just use some TRC microfiber towels to clean the leather and the rest of the interior. For the dash, I just use Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer and D101 APC. It doesn't leave a shiny residue on the dash. I use those two for almost everything on the interior.

For washing the non-greasy parts, I use a diluted solution of Optimum No Rinse (aka ONR, link here) and it works well. I use a waffle-weave microfiber and a bucket of water along with a spray bottle of ONR.

For windows, microfiber cloth plus Plexus or Clear View acrylic cleaner. Agree with what's stated below about don't drop your microfiber.

I used Optimum No Rinse during the winter time, because it allows for small parts of the car at a time, without requiring rinse.

But invest is a Waffle Weave Drying Towel, a couple bucket's from wal-mart (like $2.50 a bucket) and some Grit Guards for each bucket and your in business. You can use any soft wash mitt, and there are a lot of different brands and styles out there, and I also recommend a Detailer or Wax (I prefer quick detailer during winter-times so I can just spray and wipe and it keeps the snow and crap off for a good amount of time.)

I personally like Meguiar's Ultimate Quick Detailer. Just spray it on your clean spot, rub it in all over, then single wipe it off with the dry side of the terry cloth, and you get some bead action next time it rains!

MOTHERS Back to Black

I've used it for years with great results. Be sure and shake it up well before using.

Noob detailer. Please help to check my rinseless wash process for mistakes and/or advise on existing paint damage.

Started following this sub when I got a nice enough car to care for. It's a Mazda with soul red paint though and seems like every little thing is super visible and the clear coat scuffs when you look at it wrong. I street park in Brooklyn, dust, leaves, pollen, bird bombs and all, every day. Was recommended to adopt ONR rinseless 2 bucket method, researched and tried to follow to the best of my ability.

First, the list of equipment I obtained thus far:

• 2x buckets + grit guards
  
• ONR concentrate (1 Gal. bottle)
  
• Big Red Sponge
  
• Mother's 07240 Calif. gold clay bar + instant detailer bottle kit
  
• Opti-Seal (20239) 8oz. bottle with applicator sponge
  
• Costco MF towels
  
• Aliexpress stuff: few MF sponges, couple of high gsm/edgeless mf towels to try out.
  
  Below is the workflow I had going today, so much new stuff to use and new methods, I did not feel in the least bit confident that I did it right. Asking for folks here to review it and point out any mistakes I have made along the way as well as tips to optimize the process for the future:
  
  I went out to the car with two buckets, each with grit guards, one with 256:1 ONR solution, the other just warm water for rinsing. I started applying ONR solution in straight line motions with BRS one panel at a time starting with the roof>rear window/trunk gate>windshield>hood>front fenders>rear fenders>rear doors>front doors. I do not aim to detail interior or wheels much tbh, but i did dedicate about 6 costco towels to wheel duty by cleaning up the nooks and crannies of the wheels and wheel wells, rinsing them in rinse bucket and never dipping them back into the ONR bucket after first use. Following that, I cleaned and refilled rinse bucket and went back to repeat the panels. Why? Well, the car was very dirty with BRS quickly becoming black with dirt and me switching to costco MF towels to make another two passes over each panel, discarding towels that get visibly dirty on all quarters into laundry pile. I tried folding dirty halves/quarters away and using the Ammo NYC sweep and rotate style to minimize contaminants dragging across paint. Eventually, I felt ready to move onto claying because costco towels and BRS were no longer looking dirty as I passed them across.
  
  Here is where my confidence and excitement of a new auto detailing convert took a big hit. First of all, I had a superficial but long scratch across the right side which I expected to be possible to mask down with claying>using opti seal, since I could not actually feel it with my fingers. That didn't work at all, although I could tell by doing the ziploc bag drag test that the clayed areas were much smoother than the untreated ones. I used Mother's detailer spray bottle to lubricate, half panel at a time, then slide the pancake shaped clay sideways with no inward pressure until i stopped feeling drag resistance. I added lubricant if I felt clay stop on dry areas.
  
  I wanted to change pace after failing with masking the scratch, so I started on the inside of the windshield. I made a 10:1 ONR solution in a spray bottle, sprayed it direct onto a high gsm fluffy mf towel from aliexpress and started wiping away at the inside. I then used the flat looking towel (also from aliexpress) to wipe down streaking. I was pretty happy with the results, but unsure if I did something wrong or missed a step. Still, I moved on.
  
  I then wiped the entire exterior with a clean towel and soaked up the Opti seal applicator, proceeding to apply the stuff one panel at a time and following up with another clean mf towel to wipe off the excess wherever i saw streaking (which was almost everywhere as it was my first time and I wanted to lay a generous protective coating). I got rid of streaking easily, but....
  
  The result was clean, silky smooth paint, but upon closer inspection, it was covered in etchings from leaves, bird bombs and whatnot. The ONR>instant detailer>clay>opti-seal did not remove it. I did not apply pressure onto paint in affected areas during any of the above procedures, as I was afraid of damaging clear coat even further. Did I need to apply more inward force and scrub down the etched areas once it was cleaned from contaminants? Or the only solution to these spots now is to polish? Here is a picture of one of many etchings. some others are bigger in size, some area smaller, one is shaped like an outline of a small leaf -( . The hood also has some tiny black dots that seem to have a white halo of discolored paint around them ~1mm wide.
  
  
• scratch close up (https://i.imgur.com/glgivGd.jpg?1) (taken with 1:1 macro lens, so looks rather thick, it really isn't)
  
• Bird bomb #1 (https://i.imgur.com/wlK9j7J.jpg?1)
  
• Bird bomb #2 (https://i.imgur.com/FsUQBm4.jpg)
  
• Bird bomb #3 (https://i.imgur.com/vE5j9IM.jpg?1)
  
• Leaf etching (https://i.imgur.com/wIm1I2v.jpg?1)
  
• black dot with white 'halo' discoloration (https://i.imgur.com/oj9Tili.jpg?1)
  
  What would be recommendations for me at this point, and what ballpark cost to fix if I am not skilled/dedicated enough to get into polishing myself if that's the route I have to take? I did look over the field guide link for paint damage in the sub wiki section, says etching removal can require up to polishing depending on severity, but I couldn't tell what severity etching I got going tbh.
  
  Finally, are there any parts of this process that were done wrong or could be done better? Are the instant detailer spray and 10:1 ONR spray different in what they can do, or do they more or less perform same function to lubricate and suspend contaminants on the clear coat? Do I need to somehow strip opti-seal layer every few months to re-clay and re-seal, or just ONR on top and instant detailer spray>spot clay>reapply opti-seal in trouble spots from here on out?

Gallon of Blue ONR is on sale for $35 on amazon right now.

Picked up a bottle two days ago when it dropped to this price momentarily as well. Good deal according to camelcamelcamel where the last lowest price was $34. It's free shipping even without prime b/c it's over $25.

Edit: If you buy it remember to use "www.smile.amazon.com"!

I'd go with this much more economical size:

https://smile.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO/

I haven't used the chemical guys version, but ONR seems to be loved by detailer nerds the most out of any of the products.

I use a meguiar's microfiber wash mitt or the ONR sponge make ( https://smile.amazon.com/Optimum-22516-Big-Wash-Sponge/dp/B078DPCYFV )

One bucket method if car isn't that dirty. If really dirty, I'd use two. I do full washes about 60% of the time because my ceramic coating has degraded down to where a lot of dirt remains behind if I drive through rain and I like using my power washer. When I do that I use the same wash mitt or red sponge. The wash mitt is much easier to clean (laundry) than the big red sponge (hand wash usually), but the big red sponge is maybe a bit more mar preventative.

Don't use just water.

You can pickup blue ONR https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510851008&sr=8-1&keywords=optimum+no+rinse which you can use as clay lube, detailer, rinseless wash depending on the dilution with your distilled water.

Clay lube: ratio 1:64 or 2 oz/1 gallon



Those types of clay do the job and some people perfer it to traditional clay. I haven't heard of that brand, but i'm sure its the same stuff. I personally have little sponge from Nanoskin. https://www.amazon.com/Nanoskin-AS-019-AutoScrub-Grade-Sponge/dp/B00CUAWJ6G/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1510851254&sr=8-3&keywords=nanoskin
I like this better than that "towel" since this has a nice grip.

Well I've just started getting together my own kit and felt I HAD to get these:

1. Meguiar's Clay bars and quik detail spray
   
   
2. Butt-load of microfiber towels
   
   
3. Waffle-weave drying towel
   
   
4. Grit-guards
   
   
5. Iron X wheel cleaner
   
   
6. Industrial Spray bottles
   
   
7. Meguiar's Gold Class car wash soap
   
   
8. Meguiar's Gold Class Wax
   
   
9. Purple Power
   
   
10. Proper wash mitt
    
    I still feel like there are atleast ten other products that I NEED!
    
    -Pressure Washer
    
    -Foam Cannon
    
    -Detailing brushes
    
    -Sealants/Compounds combined with a proper rotor drill
    
    -ETC
    
    

I don't know if I'd trust any kind of 'sealant' on matte paint or powder coat. Anything that makes the finish stain resistant is also going to change the appearance. Chemical Guys makes a matte finish cleaner that I might try if it looks like Simple Green isn't doing the job for me. I have a few Chemical Guys' products for my car and they haven't let me down yet.

QD electric cleaner. That stuff will high pressure blast that stuff out. Toth burshwill help dislodge and mix the paste with it. I love this stuff.

http://www.amazon.com/CRC-05101-QD-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000CCMLD0

I am also hose-less and garage-less, so I've been using this rinseless wash, good microfiber cloths (about 5 to do the whole car), and a large chemical guys microfiber towel to dry. If the car is pretty dirty you're going to want to spray it off at a car wash to prevent swirling of the paint. I've been using 303 to finish off the interior and black magic to clean the tires/wheels when i go to spray the car off at the car wash.

For chain jobs, oil changes, etc just put a cardboard underneath like cappa mentioned. But for cleaning the exterior I use Meguires Quick Detailer and a couple of microfiber cloths. This way I won't need water. I'm also in an apartment so this is what I do:

1- With the first microfiber I wipe down the entire bike (dust, etc) from top to bottom and every little corner I can squeeze my finger in.

2- Spray the Meguires product above and wipe clean with the second microfiber.

That's it! This will make your bike spick and span without any water.

U can wash them in washer and dryer, just only with other Microfiber's. Then dry in dryer but DONT use a dryer sheet. You can use detergent, but you are better off getting a Microfiber cleaner. Such as this or this.

Your new best friend for garage washes in the winter.

Optimum (NR2010Q) No Rinse Wash & Shine - 32 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vZ.1Ab3S50G2X

I've never heard of ONR, is this the kind of thing you use?

https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO

Would you recommend it? Thanks!

Do yourself a favor and pick up some Chemical Guys matte wash and detailer. I have a 2015 Gunner with the matte green finish and that stuff works wonders. Don't need a lot of the wash either to get the job done. Also, don't go cheap on some good quality microfiber clothes, with the matte finish, don't have a whole lot of protective coating so can easily be scratched.

I buy some expensive yet cheap overall for the soap needed no rinse car wash. It's really great stuff and highly recommend it.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00GG9FK2M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Usually a decent sized hardware store should carry that, at least in the US where I live they do. I know this one works perfectly for it that is on Amazon CA.

I somehow didn't run notice any of those...just got the regular one. Can't imagine how cherry or lemon could help the scent lol.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UM6DLE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And just think, some of the suds dripped off BEFORE I got this shot. Here are the links to the Foam Gun/Cannon and the soap:

Foam Gun/Cannon

Soap - Chemical Guys Honeydew Snow Foam

I also grabbed the mitt that was offered with it from Amazon.

I added some soap to the canister with the water to dilute it. I just poured in what I thought was good. My pressure washer is a gas powered Troy from Lowes rated at 2900 PSI.

Hope this helps you out.

QD Electronic Cleaner. If its safe for the tiny piece of platinum that makes up the MAF sensor of your vehicle, it should be safe for your iPhone.

As long as it doesn't have a screen on it, a can of this will work quite well, it's like keyboard air but better because it's also a solvent (but doesn't dissolve plastic like Brakleen). Don't use it near backlit screens though, it dissolves the glue holding them together and you'll never quite get it looking right again.

What equipment and supplies do you have already? If any.

Off the top of my head here are a few of the basics.

Meguiars D101 APC

Good Wet/Dry Shop Vac.

Stoner Invisible Glass

Adam's Polishes Interior Mitt

The Rag Company Edgeless 300

The Rag Company Glass Towels

Pressure washer or Strong hose spray. (For cleaning Carpets outside of vehicle.)

Bissell Spot Clean Auto

That is more than enough to get you started. Ill add more as I have time.

Let me know if you have any questions.

For my rarer waxings, i use McGuires Cleaner Wax with a radial buffer. However, for just week to week touch ups I use McGuires Quick Detailer ( http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Quik-Detailer-Mist-Spray/dp/B0009IQXAE) which basically keeps the paint clean and shiny in between washes and waxes, and it smells kinda nice.

Edit: with that said, you could really ONLY use quick detailer spray in lieu of waxing, it would more or less give you the same effect from a visual stand point (but in the long run may not not protect the clear coat as well).

Personally, I use Meguiar's D101 though if you don't want to buy a whole gallon of concentrate Chemical Guys All Clean + is also good. The AC+ is a concentrate too, even though it comes in a spray bottle.

white is one of the easiest to keep clean.

get some iron and fallout remover https://www.amazon.com/Carpro-Iron-Remover-500-Ml/dp/B004UM6DLE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475084116&sr=8-1&keywords=carpro+iron+x

and go visit r/autodetailing and get acquainted with the two bucket wash method.

Thanks, maybe I'll just get something like this then: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Meguiars-D10101-Detailer-Purpose-Cleaner/dp/B0006SH4GE

I have found that Optimum works really well. Also, the last coat works really, really well for me.

First off, all automated car wash locations in Seattle recycle their water. These systems end up being poorly maintained and cause the wash systems to spray grit and dirt onto your paintwork at high pressure. Even the self wash bays suffer from this. If you care about marring in your paint finish don't use them.

You have 2 options, depending on how dirty you let your car get.

Best option:

1. Use a No-Rinse solution like Optimum
   
   
2. Use a biodegradable detergent like all the stuff Chemical Guys makes.
   
   DM me if you want more specifics.

As a follow up to my own post, after doing some additional research on the smell thing, I went on Amazon and grabbed a bottle of this stuff with next day shipping. Maybe all it needs is a good AC flush.

Lubegard 96030 Kool-It Evaporator and Heater Foam Cleaner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007PHD0S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5NkGzbNJC1EYP

Here is a schedule and product list I've compiled. The first sheet is my routine and the other tabs are products with links to (mostly) Amazon pages.
This has been built over several years of detailing with some recent additions specifically for the Sub (namely the Menzerna Micro Polish 4500 which is better for the softer paint).
I use 1Z shampoo and wax only because I don't pay for it. If I were buying those myself, I'd use Meguiar's Gold Class and Collinite 845 for wax.

As lifetrees mentioned, check out /r/autodetailing, read the links to the right for product reviews and how-to's, learn the 2 bucket method, and check out some videos on things like polishing and waxing as these can be difficult to do properly on a dark color vehicle as they show every imperfection in the paint.

So I am looking into buying some detailing supplies for doing wheels and was hoping someone could look over this list. It is probably overkill, but I would rather have everything I need I think.

Brushes

ABN Wheel Whoolies

Boars Hair Detail Brush Set

Mothers Wheel Brush

Cleaners

Iron X

Meguiars Hot Shine Gloss Tire Spray

Meguiars D101 APC

The total comes out to $113 but I figured I would only be buying most of these items once so it will be worth it. Also this list doesnt even have any sort of sealant so not sure if I should buy one of those also?

Love me some Meguiar's.

This is the best product I've used for cleaning brake dust from wheels.

Spray some of this on them, and I kid you not... the dirt just slides right off.

It. Is. Amazing.

I use it to clean every single thing inside my car, including the weathertechs. And it can be used as an engine detailer.

What is your opinion of Meguiar's products?

I've been using their shampoo and quick detailer on my white car since I got it about 4 months ago. I don't know much about auto detailing, but I planned on using those two to keep the car clean until I learn more or decide to take it to a professional detailer.

Rag Company Starter Kit - $30 - Includes wash mitt and other assorted towels needed to get started.

2 buckets from Home Depot - $6

2 Grit Guards - $18

Megs Gold Class Soap - $9

Megs Gold Class Carnauba - $11

einszett Cockpit Premium - $10

Stoner Invisible Glass Cleaner - $4

Chemical Guy's APC - $10

Optibond Tire Gel - $11


Grand Total of $109

There are obviously some nicer products you could get, but this is a great start for a beginner I think.

You can wash it yourself using one 2 gallon bucket with 2 ounces of optimum no rinse and shine and some microfiber towels. Much cheaper, easy to do in a parking lot and environmentally friendly.

Rain X, always

A gallon of car wash soap to last you a few years: https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-CWS_301-Citrus-Concentrated/dp/B004K9KETY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1509988980&sr=8-3&keywords=chemical+guys+wash+and+gloss

A gallon of spray wax to last you a few years:
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D15601-Synthetic-X-Press-Spray/dp/B005JPJMI2

Gallon of leather cleaner: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D18001-Leather-Cleaner-Conditioner/dp/B0006SH4PU

A 36-pack of microfiber towels to last you maybe a year.. depending on how many kids you're carrying (is it bad I assume you're carring kids in this daycare limosine?) , keep all towels separate for duty: https://www.amazon.com/Kirkland-Signature-Premium-Microfiber-36-Pack/dp/B00GARQKII/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1509988902&sr=8-1&keywords=kirkland+microfiber

Gallon sized products are the way to go for general cleaning. Glass cleaner concentrates that dilute 10:1, Wheel cleaners (dilute), all purpose cleaners (dilute), Leather cleaners, spray waxes, etc.



Maintenance:

Buy a 5 or 10 pack of oil filters on amazon. Also funnel, oil rags, and every type of oil filter wrench.

Buy full synthetic oil at walmart or on amazon.

Install a fumoto oil drain valve for easy oil changes.

Rhino ramps to drive up on.

I thought about having the whole car repainted or trying to do the clear myself. I know if I reclear it, it wont look right. Its that Night Hawk Black from honda with the blue flake in it. Super pretty color :( I live in Ohio, but this car has ZERO rust other than one fender that got bent up from a blowout. Most rust is on edges in the underside and on brackets under the hood.

http://www.amazon.com/Carpro-Iron-Remover-500-Ml/dp/B004UM6DLE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377626808&sr=8-1&keywords=ironx

This is the stuff right?

/r/AutoDetailing would be a good place to ask too, I would for see some answers would be what /u/LexusBrian400 has already said, plus;

Dub

Iron X

That's just off the top of my head.

1. Hand wash with a quality microfiber mitt using Optimum No Rinse Wash.
   
   
2. Dry with quality microfiber towels using a small amount of Opti-Seal as a drying aid. (I cheat and use an absorber shammy instead of microfiber towels, but technically they can cause microabrasions.)
   
   
3. Clean your wheels and shine tires however you want.
   
   I don't recommend a car wash at all, but do not use a car wash that touches the car. I summarized so just ask if you want more details.

Buy yourself a can of this stuff and spray the inside of your connectors. You don't need to get it from amazon, walmart and auto parts stores have it. Let it air dry, should only take a couple minutes. Also check to see if all the pins in the connectors are in good shape.

Spray it with a small squirt of QD Electronics cleaner. It's safe and designed for electrical components and you can buy it just about anywhere.

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05101-QD-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000CCMLD0

https://www.amazon.com/OPT-Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO

Buy a bottle of Optimum No Rinse (abbreviated ONR). you only need 1/2oz per gallon, so you are looking at 64 gallons of detail spray per 32oz bottle. Just take a brand new gallon of distilled water, put a capfull of ONR in it, then transfer some to a spray bottle and go to town.

you can spray a panel and wipe with a microfiber cloth to do a quick waterless wash or touch-up. And since ONR is a water softener, if you miss some when drying, it wont leave any spots.

ONR is pretty much a miracle product in the detailing industry and i wouldnt trust any detailer that doesnt have atleast a gallon of the stuff onhand at all times.

Highly recommend a gallon of Megs APC. It's cheap and it will last forever. It's great for tires/wheels, exhaust tips, engine bay, interior, etc.

Also, remember to cancel the Prime trial before it ends if you don't want to keep it. They automatically charge you at the end of the trial.

It was a long day, but I'll try to get all the steps:

1. Pressure wash rinse
   
2. Foam Cannon with this soap: Meguiar's D11101 Shampoo Plus, 1 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EZICII/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oxzpDb7HHDC15
   
3. Rinse soap with pressure washer
   
4. Foam Cannon a second time
   
5. Hand wash
   
6. Rinse with pressure washer
   
7. Clay bar entire car using this as lubricant for claybar: Meguiar's A3332 Quik Detailer Mist & Wipe https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IQXAE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TzzpDbE2QMHHC
   
8. Pressure wash rinse.
   
9. Mist car if necessary to make whole thing wet again
   
10. Hand dry
    
11. Pull car into garage
    
12. Use this soap for all black components (grill, fog light area, side mirrors, rear near exhaust, louvers): MEGUIAR'S D16001 All Season Dressing - 1 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006SH4NW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xBzpDbQMV3FRF
    
13. Using dual action buffer, apply this to whole car (then wipe off) : Meguiar's G17220 Ultimate Compound, 20 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W5HCZ9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aEzpDbQP8ACGE
    
14. After compound do the same with this: Meguiar's G19220 Ultimate Polish, 20 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X413M7J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DEzpDbMMQPD91
    
15. After the polish do the same with this: Meguiar'S Liquid Wax 16 Oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FVFF8ZK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iFzpDbTP1418C
    
16. Remove carpets and vaccuum
    
17. Shampoo and vaccum footwells and carpets. (I forget what product we used but it wasn't meguiars lol)
    
18. Apply the following to whole car by hand then wipe off: Meguiar's G18309 Ultimate Fast Finish, 8.5 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WP6PXT7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QHzpDbPFJ8HMD
    
19. Polished the exhaust with this: California Custom Purple Metal Polish 12 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MNKM9A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1IzpDbTHWF6B9
    
    
    I feel obligated to say that I'm not associated with Meguiar's at all. I was doing all this with my brother who's a detailing enthusiast and he's a bit of a fan boy.
    
    Also I don't have a ton of details on the rest of the interior because my brother started that before I arrived.
    
    All in all it was about 5 hours, with some time spent on the interior before I arrived we also spent some time fixing up some stuff like mounting the window louvres and making the exhaust hang even in the back.

Grab some Iron-X. While you're at it, clean that chain (you can use chain cleaner or kerosene) to get a few more miles out of it.

Eraser is a fantastic product but it's expensive. For your needs I would rather purchase this gallon of APC. It can be used diluted 4:1 for your wheels and tires and it can be used on any stubborn areas on the paint as well. It can also be diluted 10:1 for your interior. To use it to strip wax, put a few ounces of it in your soap bucket with your soap and wash as usual.

Your order of operations would be this:

1. Wash - wheels and tires first, then body
   
   
2. Clay bar - you can use your soap in your soap bucket for this as well provided it is not overly contaminated. Be sure to use grit guards in both buckets
   
   
3. Polish (if you would like) - after you polish use a dilution of Isopropyl alcohol and water to strip the polishing oils off the paint with a microfiber cloth.
   
   
4. Apply your last step products, sealants, waxes....

Last question, which one is better?
This:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GG9FB8U

Or this one:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D8DR0AO

And would both work while using clay for decontamination?

You'd have to open up the mouse, and clean the switch with some contact cleaner spray.

Something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/CRC-05101-QD-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000CCMLD0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1411762940&sr=8-3&keywords=electronic+contact+cleaner

OR if you're skilled with electronics enough you can just replace the switch itself.

Unfortunately it's pretty common for nagas to fail this way. Buddy of mine had it happen to him too.

There exist products that are specifically designed to clean contacts. It's called contact cleaner and it's what I use to clean both cartridges and consoles. Just spray it in the former and insert it into the latter a few times. Dries quickly and leaves no residue.

Hello! I bought a new car a little over a month ago and I wanted to do some basic cleaning with it, stuff that can be done maybe a couple times a month, since I never personally did that with my previous car.

Anyways, I live in SoCal so I'm trying to keep water usage to a minimum. This is my current "to-purchase" list that I'd like to buy soon;

ONR

iK Sprayer

Iron X

TRC Creature Edgeless 10pack

Mother's Tire Brush

ABN Wheel Woolies

Stoner's Reach Tool

Already have: Stoner's Invisible Glass, Costco multipack MF towels.

Will I still want to get a clay bar + wax for after washing, or is just washing every so often enough?

You clean it with a can of Kool-it :

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007PHD0S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_YekzDbBP26MQT

The “fix” will likely involve a software solution to dry off the evaporator after you get out of the car on a trip. Some people will turn off the AC and let the fan blow for the last few miles, but I would rather having AC the entire drive.

I am using the Simple Chuck-Double Chuck from CR Spotless for deionized water. Pricing in links below.
I used to use bottled distilled water when I was using ONR in a bucket. Not workable in a pressure washer with Snow Foam .

All the product links used in the video below: (copied links from YouTube description)
Tesla Car Wash !!! https://youtu.be/ucPdDJuQ8AQ

EQUIPMENT:
Sun Joe SPX4001 2030 PSI 1.76 GPM 14.5 Amp Electric Pressure Washer w/ Pressure Select Technology & Hose Reel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBV3LPV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_h74uCbXEB81HB

Sun Joe SPX-UQC Universal Brass/Aluminum Pressure Washer Garden Hose Quick-Connect Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HH3V1Z0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.74uCbWV6TH05

McKillans Foam Cannon Professional Grade Adjustable Lance Pressure Washer Jet Wash with 1/4” Quick Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D6KPV3G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GN5uCbG88X0C2

Extra Bonus! Includes 3 Additional Filters - Metro Vac Revolution W/ 30 Ft Hose - Model MB-3CD SWB - 30 - Air Force Master Blaster Car & Motorcycle Air Dryer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0711L4Y6F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IS5uCbZ4QRY1C

https://simplechuck.com/

Amazon:
Double Chuck https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072QRNWY8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5m5uCbRTN1SPV

https://www.autogeek.net/ps-beadmaker-sprayer.html?productid=ps-beadmaker-sprayer&channelid=FROOG&utm_source=CSEs&utm_medium=GoogleProductSearch&utm_campaign=CSE&utm_campaign=1504990722&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_content=287205172222&utm_term=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzafHqKCb4AIVARx9Ch2RlwD6EAQYByABEgJcZvD_BwE


CHEMICALS:
Chemical Guys CWS_110 Honeydew Snow Foam Car Wash Soap and Cleanser (1 Gal) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009OTW646/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_594uCbGY470D2

https://www.theragcompany.com/p-s-bead-maker-paint-protectant-gallon-128-oz/

Optimum (NR2010G) No Rinse Wash & Shine - 1 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GG9FK2M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RE5uCbVH68G0R

Hope's Perfect Glass Cleaner, 2 Piece, 32 Oz. Spray Bottle and 64 Oz. Refill Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ALK3I52/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bI5uCbW6A0HWF

Chemical Guys CWS_201 Microfiber Wash Cleaning Detergent Concentrate (1 Gal) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001W91J8K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9K5uCbQSX7V7A

OTHER SUPPLIES:
https://www.theragcompany.com/value-bundle-cyclone-wash-mitt-premium-korean-microfiber-2-pack/

https://www.theragcompany.com/value-bundle-eagle-edgeless-600-16-x-16-towel-grey-5-pack/

https://www.theragcompany.com/value-bundle-16-x-16-creature-edgeless-dual-pile-towel-5-pack/

https://www.theragcompany.com/value-bundle-16-x-24-eagle-edgeless-500-microfiber-towels-3-pack/

Similar Wheel Brush
AmazonBasics Wheel Brush, Long Handle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073P7FSW5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ml5uCb5R63RHP

Quik Shot - 16 Ounce Plastic Flask with a Built-in 1 Ounce Shot Glass Chamber https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RM5FI5I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_STjvCb7H18HTF

Meguiar's APC seems to be everyone's favorite around here.

You can get this today with prime. They make a sealant too. My motorcycle is matte and will probably just use their matte sealant. I've never found it necessary to use a dedicated matte soap.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BUFWN5E/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1457706985&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=chemical+guys+matte+soap&dpPl=1&dpID=41a7viP7s6L&ref=plSrch

What I used:

Mothers Microfiber Performance Drying Towel.

AmazonBasics Microfiber Cleaning Cloth, (Pack of 24).

Chemical Guys MIC_701_01 - Glass and Window Waffle Weave Towel.

Stoner 92164 Invisible Glass for Window, Windshield and Mirror Cleaner.

Rain-X 800002243 Glass Treatment.

Griot's Garage 10268 Micro Fiber Wash Mitt.

Optimum (NR2010Q) No Rinse Wash & Shine.

Eagle One 665854 All Wheel and Tire Cleaner.

Mothers Wheel Brush.

Mothers 10324 Reflections Tire Care.

Chemical Guys ACC_300_2 - Durafoam Contoured Large Tire Dressing Applicator Pad.

Meguiar's G14422 Ultimate Quik Detailer.

303 Products 30350 Aerospace Protectant.

Black & Decker CHV1510 Dustbuster 15.6-Volt Cordless Cyclonic Hand Vacuum.

(I live in an apartment complex... otherwise I'd probably get a shop vac).

Two 5 gallon buckets.

2 of The Grit Guard Inserts.

I'm not an expert by any means, but from /r/AutoDetailing I ended up getting this: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7164-Class-Shampoo-Conditioner/dp/B0009IQXFO

I just rinse the car down, mix that together in a bucket, use a microfiber mitt to apply it, then rinse it off and dry with a microfiber towel. I'm sure there are better/more specific products you could buy, though. Check /r/AutoDetailing for more.

That points to the motor. You can try hosing it out with Plastic safe contact cleaner to see if there is an improvement but you might need a new motor.