(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best car audio & video installation products

Thanks for the reply. that sucks about the budget, a lot of others found setups that were well within my constraints.

> First, make sure to check all your resources before popping over to your local sound shop and letting them convince you to buy some overpriced shit.

>Amazon and Ebay are your friends! Use crutchfield and sonicelectronix for info and standard >pricing, then check Amazon/Ebay for the BIG discounts. Tell crutchfield or Amazon what you're driving and they'll give you a list of parts that fit.

>Second, even with only listening to rock music, trust me you will want a small subwoofer to fill out your system. Nothing major, it doesn't have to blow your head >off or anything. Just adds a little low end to balance out your sound.

>So, if I were to build a decent budget system for your Ranger, this is what I'd do:

> Head unit (radio). Alpine, Pioneer, Kenwood, JVC are really the only brands I would consider. Here's a decent Pioneer for the money. ~ $68

> You'll also need a wiring harness for your aftermarket radio to work in your truck. Not a big deal. ~ $4

> Okay, speaker time. Crutchfield says your truck has 5 1/4" in the doors, 6 1/2" in the kick panels and some random speaker behind the seat. For our purposes, let's say you just disconnect the rear speaker as it will be completely unnecessary. Here are some Rockfords for the doors that won't break the bank. ~ $62 / And here's some 6 1/2" Alpines for the kick panels ~ $62

> Subwoofer. Okay, now you may reach this point and say, "You know, I'll be fine with just this! Listen to how much better it sounds!" Trust all of us, a woofer is a good investment. For your purposes, I've tried to leave some wiggle room as far as budget goes to allow for a decent sub, box, amp and amp kit. A lot of these people will say build your own box, and if you're handy and would like to try, then go for it! I'm just not as averse to prefab as most people around here, so I say just find a decent prefab wedge box that will fit behind your seat. A little browsing and Bam! box and woofer. That's perfect for you. ~ $109

> Amplifier. You don't need anything crazy. Keeping with the Rockford theme, here's a decent 250w amp for that sub. ~ $103

> Amp kit. ~ $33

>And the grand total is: ~ $441 ($196 without the stuff for the subwoofer)

>Now, obviously you can play around with the pieces of this system for preference and price, but this was just what I could throw together in 20 minutes or so. Research, research, research. Half of this game is finding parts you like and reading/forming opinions about brands, etc. Hope I helped.

and

>Oh I can answer this one easy. My first truck was Ranger.
>You can easily get a nice sound system going for cheap. Check out Crutchfield for getting equipment. They make >it dead simple to install most components.
>I recommend getting a CD player.head unit that has bluetooth and usb inputs. You can get a pioneer or kenwood for cheap. Or spend a little more for an Alpine.
>Replace the stock speakers with stock sized aftermarket ones. You don't even have to spend a lot of money. Honestly, you could get away with spending less than >$250 on the whole set up.
>You will have a solid system at this point. You can then research adding a sub for the bass.

>Here is some that fit your truck;

>Head Unit

>Door SPeakers

>Additional Rear Speakers - these will need boxes since there is no spot for installation.


>Total of about $220.

I'm sure there can be good setups found for my budget?

Nice! I just picked up an 06' Sedan 6 speed. These cars are pretty fucking quick haha.

Mine has 247k though. She is rust free and the previous owner took fantastic care of it.

You can swap the rear speakers for something a bit better and it takes 10 minutes. I threw in some Alpine Type S 6x9's and the system sounds fantastic. Literally all you need is the speakers and the below adapters. I love music, so this was the easiest way to add some clarity to the existing system.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BEPJY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Build quality on this gen (7.5) is very hard to beat, Honda kinda of went cheap on the 8th and newer gens from what I gather. I am more than pleased with my 1/4 million mile baby.

Have fun!

If you want it to be easy as possible, you can use one of these (and you'll need to pick up a maestro sw or rr):

https://www.amazon.com/AutoHarnessHouse-Aftermarket-Installation-compatible-2016-2019/dp/B07GD8627K/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=autoharnesshouse+brz&qid=1573219865&sr=8-1

​

That covers the steering wheel controls and camera, antenna amp, and factory amp. You'll need to add a pin and wire on the harness (it's included) to power up the factory amp and door speakers. Also, ignore the instructions included on the two 5-pin connectors - just connect the two on the harness together if it's not shipped as such. If you want to try to keep costs down and make your own, you'll need to wire in a voltage converter for the camera power feed.

You'll also need the standard Toyota harness for the rest of the speakers. You can use one of AutoHarnessHouse direct connect Pioneer ones, or just make your own a little cheaper. I believe this is the part, but please double check - I don't have the part number handy right now (You can actually get these at Best Buy, it's in their computer system):
https://www.amazon.com/Metra-70-1761-Wiring-Harness-Speaker/dp/B0002BEQJ8/ref=sr_1_1?crid=344R0OVLJ7ACT&keywords=metra+toyota+harness&qid=1573220037&sprefix=metra+toyo%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-1

​

For the 4500, I also recommend either wiring up their GPS antenna, or just using an adapter for the OEM one (I went this route just to keep things clean). This pack contains the correct adapter (it's the one with the bright green end, maybe you can find it standalone cheaper):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K03PORU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

If you don't hook up the GPS antenna, the head unit will throw up an error message every time you start up a navigation app in AndroidAuto (it'll still work, it's just annoying).

Lastly, don't forget an antenna adapter and (optionally the OEM USB port adapter cable). I opted not to use the USB port since I have a high speed charger that uses a 12v socket. Same as above, please double check this to make sure it is the right one, but here's what the antenna adapter looks like:

https://www.amazon.com/Metra-40-LX11-Antenna-Adaptor-Select/dp/B00JYHSDKO/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp?keywords=toyota+antenna+adapter&pd_rd_i=B00JYHSDKO&pd_rd_r=aae8b955-0220-497c-bcd6-480183748bd8&pd_rd_w=bmQ4P&pd_rd_wg=7ZU9O&pf_rd_p=a6d018ad-f20b-46c9-8920-433972c7d9b7&pf_rd_r=F20PSH58JCQN60PP1T5G&qid=1573220626

You'll need to wire in the blue wire to power the antenna amp. Don't hook it up to a constant 12v feed (yello), either use a switched feed, or wire it to the matching blue feed on the back of the harness (it's the one that feeds out of the two pins jumped together by a blue wire).

​

Sorry I can't be 100% on the last couple of adapters - if you have trouble confirming feel free to DM me and I will be happy to check when I get home from work, I kept the packaging for later reference, and again, Best Buy does have these in their computer, so even if your local one doesn't carry them, they should at least be able to give you the part number.

First, make sure to check all your resources before popping over to your local sound shop and letting them convince you to buy some overpriced shit.

Amazon and Ebay are your friends! Use crutchfield and sonicelectronix for info and standard pricing, then check Amazon/Ebay for the BIG discounts. Tell crutchfield or Amazon what you're driving and they'll give you a list of parts that fit.

Second, even with only listening to rock music, trust me you will want a small subwoofer to fill out your system. Nothing major, it doesn't have to blow your head off or anything. Just adds a little low end to balance out your sound.

So, if I were to build a decent budget system for your Ranger, this is what I'd do:

• Head unit (radio). Alpine, Pioneer, Kenwood, JVC are really the only brands I would consider. Here's a decent Pioneer for the money. ~ $68
  
  
• You'll also need a wiring harness for your aftermarket radio to work in your truck. Not a big deal. ~ $4
  
  
• Okay, speaker time. Crutchfield says your truck has 5 1/4" in the doors, 6 1/2" in the kick panels and some random speaker behind the seat. For our purposes, let's say you just disconnect the rear speaker as it will be completely unnecessary. Here are some Rockfords for the doors that won't break the bank. ~ $62 / And here's some 6 1/2" Alpines for the kick panels ~ $62
  
  
• Subwoofer. Okay, now you may reach this point and say, "You know, I'll be fine with just this! Listen to how much better it sounds!" Trust all of us, a woofer is a good investment. For your purposes, I've tried to leave some wiggle room as far as budget goes to allow for a decent sub, box, amp and amp kit. A lot of these people will say build your own box, and if you're handy and would like to try, then go for it! I'm just not as averse to prefab as most people around here, so I say just find a decent prefab wedge box that will fit behind your seat. A little browsing and Bam! box and woofer. That's perfect for you. ~ $109
  
  
• Amplifier. You don't need anything crazy. Keeping with the Rockford theme, here's a decent 250w amp for that sub. ~ $103
  
  
• Amp kit. ~ $33
  
  And the grand total is: ~ $441 ($196 without the stuff for the subwoofer)
  
  Now, obviously you can play around with the pieces of this system for preference and price, but this was just what I could throw together in 20 minutes or so. Research, research, research. Half of this game is finding parts you like and reading/forming opinions about brands, etc. Hope I helped.

I love my SyncUP DRIVE because it is able to add a whole dimension to our SUV.

I don't know what it is about FM radio in cars, but the last couple vehicles, the signal and audio quality has been absolutely atrocious. Unless you have that HD Radio feature built-in on your car's entertainment system, it's so staticky and low quality that it's not even worth listening to.

So, I grabbed a second-gen Amazon Echo Dot on sale for $30 and plugged it in my car, with a 1A micro-USB charger and an audio cable (plus a ground loop noise isolator to remove the humming/hissing noise), and now my wife and I are able to stream our favorite FM radio stations via iHeartRadio and TuneIn, not to mention Amazon Music, Pandora, and Spotify. Granted, Amazon streams their audio through an encrypted network connection (akin to a VPN connection), so T-Mobile is not able to downsample it and therefore is not Music Freedom-eligible, so that streaming counts against my monthly data allotment.

We've got the grandfathered Mobile Internet 6GB plan with Binge On and Music Freedom for $40, with a $10 discount for having phone lines, and $5 discount for AutoPay, ultimately bringing it to $25 per month. Surprisingly, there's also another 6GB plan for $25, but T-Force says the discounts are already applied to that, and the plan is tweaked, but not for the better: throttling on these new plans specifically state that they're forced down to 2G speeds, whereas my grandfathered plan says it's just "slowed down." I've never broken the 6GB barrier in a single month, as I use up 4-5GB per month with encrypted music streaming, so I don't know what the speeds are after that. I also have 4G LTE tethering, but I hardly use that as well.

In addition, I also grabbed an Amazon Fire TV Stick for $30 and plugged it into the Rear Entertainment System's HDMI port (and USB port for power), so the kids can watch Netflix, Hulu, Amazon Video, and even the SlingPlayer app back to my Slingbox connected to my TiVo at home, so they can watch their recorded shows and live TV. All those streams are zero-rated for Binge On, so they can watch all they want to their hearts' content. No more swapping DVDs and Blu-rays, it's all on demand.

All that, plus vehicle monitoring/tracking/logging, diagnostics, and included Roadside Assistance, this is probably the coolest thing to have on my T-Mobile account.

So, I have the 2019, but these speakers are compatible with anything that supports a 3.5" speaker on the dashboard.

---

That said, the stock tweeters are shite. I got a pair of JBL CLUB 3020 to fill in some of the missing mid-high. It's like a night and day difference.

The stock speakers accepts a proprietary audio plug that's a white box with 4 cables going back into the dash. The new JBLs are just bare connectors because they are universal. I didn't want to cut the wires, so I found an adapter here.

It was very easy to install:

• Pop off the speaker grill with a credit card.
  
• Unscrew the stock speaker
  
• Unplug the stock speaker
  
• Plug the adapter into the wires coming from the car
  
• Plug the wires from the adapter into the new speakers
  
• Screw in the new speakers
  
• Replace the speaker grill
  
  Took about 10 minutes each speaker.
  
  ---
  
  I intend to rip off the doors are replace those 6.5" speakers with 4 JBL CLUB 6520 speakers.
  
  Even without an amp the better quality speaker makes a world of difference.
  
  I will probably add an amp and a sub at some point, but that's down the road. I'll post again when I replace the door speakers and I'd be happy to assist if you are doing the same with a 2019.

Some background on myself and this project, prompted by /u/TechRoss.

Preface: This was my first robot project, and the most complex thing I've done with a RasPi so far. Prior to this, I had done the standard hello-world-equivalent LED blinking, set up a button to trigger some other actions(Dim lights, change temperature, put music on -> A.K.A the Turn-up button). I host my website on one of these and built and set up a mini screen for another RasPi (since gifted this one to a coworker). All this done through tutorials, minus the networking side of things.

I wanted to do an actual robot project, but didn't really know where to start / too much more about hardware and what I'd need. After some research I ended up purchasing this^1. I liked the idea of controlling it with my smartphone so I wrote an android app to hook into the camera feed and send the signals trigger the movements on the Raspi, I then leveraged the connection to my smartwach^2 and wrote up a watchapp to signal to the app and the the Pi, which results in what you see before you. I did motion control too since the watch also has an accelerometer, but this felt more natural.

1. Great sub-100 kit. In addition to mine, I bought two of these to gift. Minus the fact that no indication is given that you should set up your RasPi and get the IP first before prior to going through the instructions it's really well done.
   
   
2. For the curious, it's a Pebble smartwach. Specifically Pebble Time Round, KS3 edition. Pebble has sadly gone out of business but I still consider it a great watch.

I just bought a '14 GT which is essentially the same internals as the 2011. I went with these Polk DB571's. Took me about an hour and a half to install, but it all went flawlessly and they sound incredibly better than the stock crap that came with it. Sync calls now sound clear and nice whereas before they were muffled and flat. They do not need an amplifier and they are so much better than stock.

Also make sure you buy 2 of these as well so you don't have to do any fancy wiring. Each pack comes with 2. And also a set of these so you don't damage anything taking the doors and trunk shelf apart.

Here is a crazy useful video on how to install them.

Total cost for two sets of speakers and tools to install them, about $130. This is of course assuming you have a ratchet set available.

This doesn't seem to be an uncommon problem. It's likely a ground loop issue related to less-than-optimal shielding. Some guy got his replaced and it came back fixed, however this tends to be a rather common issue with such thin devices, so I wouldn't get my hopes too high on a replacement being much better. I also have this problem, but got one of these and it fixed it wonderfully. While it would be nice to not need an external filter to carry around (though it's quite small), I'm perfectly happy with this solution. I've also found that turning on the 'lower headphone output' option in system settings makes it a lot less audible.

The crutchfield guy may have been trying to sell you a LOC that corrects the bass roll off some cars experience. I myself bought an LC2i converter for that reason, but you may not need it. It looks like that amp accepts speaker level inputs so you may be able to skip the LOC altogether and just tap into your rear speakers. Up to you though the LOC is so cheap you may as well use it. If you notice the bass is decreasing as you increase volume you might look into buying a more expensive LOC that fixes the signal. I would try out the bass package as is first before I did that though.


You will need RCA cables to run from the LOC to the amp. Amazon has some for like 8 bucks. For the amp wiring kit, I got one for 20 dollars on Amazon.


InstallGear 4 Gauge Complete Amp Kit Amplifier Installation Wiring Wire https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N1SS2ZA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_L1q8Ab9TTW5NK


This is 4 gauge wire which is more than enough for your amp. If you prefer 8 gauge you can find a similarly priced set on Amazon. Everything else looks fine. Any reason you went with the MTX?

Hey, no problems. Those are what I purchased, yes. Along with this wiring adapter (which is easier than easy to install and should be included with the purchase on Crutchfield).

Speakers from Amazon

Wiring adapter from Amazon

It all comes out to about the same price (about $5 cheaper on Amazon), but Amazon's got Prime shipping, so that's why I'd recommend going there.

Also it's worth noting that I had to send them back in because one of the speakers started to crackle, so watch out for that within the first couple weeks. I'll be buying them again though soon, since they sounded pretty good for the price.

Hope this helps.

I don't know too much about wires, but I bought this and I think it's of excellent quality. Nice and thick. Has a heavy feel to it yet very flexible. Plus, I don't know about that tool. I used the Klein stripper and it's very nice. That doesn't seem like the best tool imo, but I'm no an expert.

So Headunit installed, I ended up forgetting a adapter, and my friend just hardwired everything in, just took a bit longer to install. Head unit runs great, Also ran into a couple hiccups while installing. so #1 if you intend to get the scosche bezel you might have a 50/50 change of having it work. I picked up this a scosche aftermarket bezel that apparently doesnt fit. :(

On Scosche's website its lableled as compatible with the 2015 wrx, but its kinda not. The top mounting for the upper vents is different with the 2015 wrx. Works with 2015 WRX only if you have the 2016 updated upper vent. so watch out for that. The headunit itself is great and snappy, I still need to install my amp and subwoofer, but bluetooth has significantly better connection the the stock headunit. It doesn't disconnect or lag at all, nor does it have sudden stop. Steering controls were retained using the metra aswc-1. So far so good with the headunit, still gotta finetune it to my liking ;)


Bezel: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GTP74P8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It sounds like you did a bunch of research and you're totally ready for this bun!

Just a couple of specific ideas to add on to what the other commenters have suggested. This stuff is great for covering wires. If you find that the carefresh doesn't absorb odor as well, you can try a pelleted litter (I use oxbow eco-straw since it's safe for them to eat)

Congrats on your new bun!

Xenyx 802 boards are not a USB audio interface. You would need to plug in your mic into ch1 or ch2, then if you just want to send you Mic input to your PC then you will need to take cable like this one (https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-153-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068O3C) and plug it into your Main Out then the 3/4 end would plug into your microphone input on your PC.

You may want to use a ground loop isolator as well to ensure a clear and clean transfer of sound from the mixer to the PC. This is a good one (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004HJ35F2/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I1TOD2ZLXASPZE&colid=CB045PGEL00J). I hope this helps :)

Your stock radio is sorta-double DIN but you really need a dash kit like this one from scosche (https://www.amazon.com/SCOSCHE-SU2031B-2015-Up-Crosstrek-Vehicles/dp/B01GTP74P8) to blank out the dials/buttons on the sides and give a nice fit to any aftermarket double DIN car head unit. Just have to figure out the exact dash kit for your model/year

If you want to keep all the steering controls working it gets a little more complicated as you’ll need a converter box or something but unless you can get a junkyard pull it’s still going to be cheaper to get a nice aftermarket unit with all the options vs replacing with stock

Yes. I have a pioneer w4400nex in my 2018 wrx base model. Great headunit with wireless CarPlay. It’s relatively plug and play with a harness from autoharnesshouse. Here are all the links:

AutoHarnessHouse Aftermarket... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GD8627K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Direct wire harness for Pioneer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078GBDRVX?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Maestro ADS-MSW Universal Analog Steering Wheel Interface https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J4W10XG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Jg22Db6PFF6R1

Need this to connect FM radio to new Headunit:
Aftermarket Radio Antenna Adapter by Vehicle Aerial Stereo Converter Cable, DIN (Motorola Type) to Antenna Terminal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QNL9QQ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7l22DbVWFF1K2

Need this if you want to retain factory USB port:
Metra Electronics AX-SUBUSB Multicolored Subaru 2011 & Up 4-Pin USB Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JYTLW14/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_do22DbN1SNNSH

This is the dash kit to make the headunit fit properly:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_142SU2031B/Scosche-SU2031B-Dash-Kit-Gloss-Black.html

Those are all the harnesses/wires you’ll need to make it plug and play. The USB adapter might not work if your car has 2 USB ports in the center console. This shouldn’t be a problem anyways since CarPlay is wireless. The USB ports will still charge your phone regardless. If you have the base wrx, it’ll be fine. On YouTube there are plenty of install vids if you ever feel confused.
Edit: the guy from autoharnesshouse (Brian) is also very friendly if you have any questions about the harness, just email him.

I've been having a similar problem. Some research lead me to 'ground loops'. It can be a static-y hum often times. Try a Ground Loop Isolator of some kind. I have xlr and this sorta worked for me. A cheap way to test an otherwise expensive issue. If you're not using xlr, you can try more common methods for cars. There's also cutting it off at the source by using an ac jack isolator. Or if you can't afford that, try using noise reduction plug ins from other DAWs. I use isotope to remove my noise now. It's pricey, sure, but it's 10000% worth its price. A beautiful piece of software that's perfect for my processing when I'm not using Reaper or Audacity.

Dupont connectors, fittings, crimper:

http://www.amazon.com/Sunkee-Dupont-Jumper-Female-Connector/dp/B00CGWVFWW/

http://www.amazon.com/Sunkee-100PCS-Dupont-Jumper-Connector/dp/B00CGWUV6S/

http://www.amazon.com/SainSmart-Professional-Compression-Ratcheting-Insulated/dp/B00DHCRVSC/

http://www.amazon.com/Happy-Store-2-54mm-Connector-Housing/dp/B00CO86Z6Y/

http://www.amazon.com/Sunkee-100pcs-Dupont-Connector-Housing/dp/B00CGXOVM2/

Wire:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003HGHQ24/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003HGHQ2O/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

Exact products i bought. Didn't need the crimper exactly (could just use needle nose pliers), and the insulation on this wire is a little thick for the connectors (doesnt' quite fit into the black connectors when crimped around the insulation, but i wanted the heaviest gauge i could fit, 24 would probably fit better)

Some of the items shipped prime, some shipped from china, so 2 day shipping on the male connectors, and a month on the female. :-p

When looking to attach to a board make sure to measure the pitch, 2.54 is fairly standard, but there's always someone who uses 2mm or something else.

This is the drone that I have built:

Been slowly building my first quad over the past month or so. Just when I have time. I bought a cheap carbon fiber kit off amazon. I will list everything I have bought so far.

Fly Sky FS-i6 Transmitter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VE3PZ3Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fly Sky FSia6b RX (need this to run PPM instead of PWM): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VE3Q3XU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

LHI quad Kit with ESC's, Motors and Flight Controller: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010FMGUS8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Now the above kit comes with a CC3D flight controller, after some research, I decided that I would use a Naze32 rev6 board instead. I purchased that from Hobby king, I will list all hobbyking purchases after amazon.

Nylon hex nuts, screws and stand offs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EPLH08Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

XT60 connectors: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E9HM7NC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Lipo Voltage Checker: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E7UXVL8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Battery / GoPro straps: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F7MEDW6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 PS: good velcro isnt enough!

Tri-blade Props. Buy a couple of these!:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CHDNRRK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Extra arms....JUST IN CASE! https://www.amazon.com/LHI-Carbon-thick-250mm-Quadcopter/dp/B01715HGNU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1472346179&sr=8-1&keywords=LHI+arms


These are all the hobby king stuff that I bought:
Naze 32 FC ACRO: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__96841__AfroFlight_Naze32_Rev6_Flight_Controller_Acro_.html

1300 mah 3s 45-90c lipos: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18207__Turnigy_nano_tech_1300mAh_3S_45_90C_Lipo_Pack.html

Besides a lipo charger, the above will get you flying! Below is everything needed for the FPV aspect! I used to run RC cars so luckily I had a lipo charger from those days

Camera and transmitter from ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/262061528376?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Clover antennas from ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/272297376391?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Quanum Cyclops FPV Goggles from hobbyking: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__104150__Quanum_Cyclops_FPV_Goggle_w_Integrated_Monitor_and_Receiver_AR_Warehouse_.html

Now this is prolly the most basic, beginners fpv setup that you can buy... Its perfect for learning and crashing lol. I have about 3 flights with mine so far, about 4 batteries. Buy props lol, lots of props. Already had to change 1 arm too.

This is a great thread! I'm ordering parts and preparing for my own install into a 2013 Subaru Crosstrek and I've been concerned with the issues people are reporting with steering wheel controls. It sounds like bypassing the ASWC unit and going directly into the head unit and programming the buttons there did the trick for you though? Does MODE button work to change modes? Does the VOICE button work for activating Siri? Would you mind sharing which parts you used to build your custom cable?

The harness I purchased actually includes the SWC wires compared to most harnesses that don't, so maybe this puts me in a good spot for being able to make this work correctly? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D9K3L44/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

i got my wire and plugs from amazon and they work great.

wire
https://www.amazon.com/InstallGear-Gauge-100ft-Speaker-Touch/dp/B01CSZAYF0

plugs
https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Banana-Plugs-Corrosion-Resistant-Gold-Plated/dp/B00JFC9BJU

got all of my subwoofer cables from Amazon as well. cheap and easy. Cable Matters and Amazon basics brand sub cables.

other than that, R/L/C should be a simple straight forward process. have all of your sources going into your receiver and HDMI out from your receiver to your TV.

I got my Pi with the sensor kit from sunfounder there are other kits that are cheaper, but this in particular is pretty nice. Also the robotics car is a nice package

While people might snub their nose at cheap speakers I have 2 pair of these in my crew cab and they sound just as good over the road noise as speakers that cost twice as much.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R1675X2/Rockford-Fosgate-R1675X2.html

I rented a versa for a while when working 400 miles from home and driving back and forth on the weekends. They are not the quietest cars so those subtle nuances people spend extra on can get lost in the "ambiance". Thing I loved about that car is I could set the cruise on 95 and still get 33 mpg, which is triple what I would get driving 80 in my truck.

As far as subs go keep an eye on your local CL or Facebook marketplace for anything in JL Audio's W3 line. I'm going to go pick up a second 12w3v3-4 in a couple days for a bill. You have time to sit and wait until you find a good deal so just keep your eyes peeled.

NVX makes great amps for under $200, if you can't find a monoblock used before your head unit comes out (you should be able to pick a suitable one up using those same resources for $100).

As far as amp wiring kits you're not going to be pulling enough amperage pushing a 250-500w rms subwoofer to necessitate a 4ga ofc wiring kit. 8ga ofc or 4ga CCA will be fine.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N1SS2ZA?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

$80 for factory replacement speakers
$20 for wiring kit
$100 for sub
$100 for amp
$500 for head unit

The cheapest way to go would be to run this cable from the headphone jack on your PC to this amp. From there, run this wire to this subwoofer. Then use more speaker wire to connect the Hi-Level Output on the subwoofer to these bookshelves.

It will sound pretty good, and fit your budget pretty much exactly. It's stereo, but I don't know of a good 5.1 setup that would fit your budget.

Be warned: you WILL eventually want to upgrade every piece of this. But for your budget, for right now, this will sound good.

If any of you want to do this for your own computer, it's pretty simple depending on the resources you have available.

Here's what you'll need (disclaimer, I hardly know electronics. If you notice something wrong correct me, please):

• Some wire (I think it's 22 gauge? I'm not quite sure) and (optionally) heat shrink
  
• Access to a soldering iron, wire cutters, wire strippers, and solder. Optionally, a heat gun, if using heat shrink.
  
• At least 8 Female dupont connectors
  
• At least 4 housings for the dupont connectors
  
• Two switches of your choice
  
• The 3D-printed (or laser cut -- make sure your material is around 1.5mm thick!) switch holder. If you want the STL, just ask, but it's just a 1.5 mm thick plate with 14mmx14mm square holes cut out for the switches and 3mm circular holes for screws. The gap between switches is 5mm.
  
• Two 2x3x4mm rectangular LEDs (other kinds work; use what you'd use in a regular switch)
  
• Two resistors if necessary. Check the voltage your motherboard supplies to the LEDs and adjust as needed. I contacted my motherboard's manufacturer (MSI) with my motherboard ID and they responded within a day with the voltage.
  
• Two keycaps
  
  Instead of getting the wires and dupont connectors, you could also just buy a power button, cut off the wires, and solder them to the switches. This will probably be more cost effective. I recommend this power button, as it has a reset switch and both LEDs (and thus, wires for all of them).
  
  Once you have the materials, it's just a matter of soldering the wires to the pins, really. The orientation of the wires doesn't matter for the switches (i.e. you can attach them to the power button pins on your motherboard in any order), but make sure you get the right order for the LEDs (positive is the long leg, usually). I'd recommend cutting the LED legs to size as well.
  
  Also, if you need a resistor, what I did was just solder it to the LED leg and then to the wire. That's probably the worst way to go about that, but like I said, I don't know electronics well. I'm sure someone else has a better idea.
  
  EDIT:
  
  If you can't find a way to mount this on your case, you can always 3D print (or laser cut, or fashion using regular tools) a box for it, run the wires through it, and place it on your desk.

I have had very good luck with this.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LYYUJAT/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So, if you are going to use headphones, like at all I would suggest getting this.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L1NP7YI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Handy for any headphone application. I carry one in my edc.

You need:

• The Carvepower setup from your link
  
• Have to buy batteries extra from eBay
  
• Some parts to put together the CnR cable that goes from the Carvepower to your board:
  1.) XLR connector like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00067JJ8Q/
  2.) Some long enough wire, for example: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UR0N370/
  3.) One XT60 connector: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E9HM7NC/
  4.) Some sort of quick disconnect plug, example: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006ZOIJ0S/ (this is so that it can easily disconnect if you crash without damaging the cable)
  Then just solder those parts together and you're ready to go.
  
  PS: This case is optional but it perfectly fits 2 carvepower battery cases and the solar charger device + cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N6N3J8D/

We made an enclosure out of foamcore boards and duct tape...they get chewed eventually, sure...but it worked better than this:

http://www.amazon.com/Marshall-Small-Pet-Deluxe-Play/dp/B0013TT2SS/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1322368051&sr=1-1

Also, I got wire covers for everything like this:
http://www.amazon.com/American-Terminal-SL500-100-2-Inch-Tubing/dp/B0017686ZC/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1322368115&sr=8-6

For EVERYTHING...keeps the chewing down and keeps them from getting peed on. Also, every rat loves a buddy....

Cover cords with this. Distract bunny with awesome toys like this.

Most chew toys are ignored by my rabbit, but he will chew twigs like these to smithereens. This definitely helps to distract him.

Those are pretty cool, but fairly expensive. For seated experiences, a decent bass shaker and amp can be installed into most chairs for around $100.

This is everything I bought for my setup, and it's great for Driveclub, Eve, and Rigs:


Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2 x 40-Watt Amplifier and 1x68W Sub Output https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_p2hvyb1DQKT6T

AuraSound AST-2B-4 Pro Bass Shaker Tactile Transducer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ZPTBI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Z2hvybK1X2MTF

Pyle PSC1250 12-Gauge, 50 feet Spool of High Quality Speaker Zip Wire https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZX8N44/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_G3hvyb889SGZP

Belkin Speaker and Headphone Splitter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000067RC4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_b4hvybN63W7CQ

StarTech.com MU15MMS 15 feet Slim 3.5mm Stereo Audio Cable - M/M https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004G3WCNK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_z4hvyb7PS049X

I've been using one of these for broadcasting bluetooth audio from my switch. It works pretty well. If you do that and get some persistent buzzing get a ground loop isolator.

It would be ideal if the Switch just had bluetooth audio to begin with, but this has been an okay solution for me so far.

I would actually get these: (Real 18AWG 43x2pcs Strands) 10 Pairs DC Power Pigtail Cable 12V 5A Male & Female + 10 Pairs DC Power Jack Plug Adapter Connector for CCTV Home Security Surveillance by MILAPEAK (2.1mm x 5.5mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CWQPPTW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LmT0Db7G21FSE

I like them better because there are less exposed wires and they are higher quality for pretty much the same price.

To connect a single wire to two things, you split the wire. Take a higher gauge stranded wire, strip it a fair amount (a couple inches) then take half the conductors and twist them together, same with the other half. Use heat shrink so now you’ve got one wire that splits into two wires. Solder additional lengths of wire to your split ends if you need the individual split sections to be longer.

Protip: use these to make soldering wires together dead simple. Kuject 120PCS Solder Seal Wire... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073RMRCC3?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Buy yourself a heat gun if you think you’ll do this more than ~5 times, it makes soldering wires together a 30 second task, very easy.

Depends on the type of headset you have.

For example: I have a logitech g933. It is a wireless one that uses a usb bluetooth dongle. On the top of the bluetooth dongle is an aux port, and there's an aux port on my monitor that I put smash on. Now in order to get audio for me, all I have to do is use an aux cable, plug it into my dongle, and then into my monitor, however you will hear a low buzz or hum.
In order to remove this, you need to plug your aux cable into a Ground Loop Isolator
That will remove the buzz and hum, and will make it so the audio you get from your monitor (the one you are playing smash on) is clear and clean.


That's just my headset though. Someone else did a handy guide on how they set it up, with pictures. https://imgur.com/gallery/xXDXM


Hope this helps

I added an aux port to my 2006 not too long ago. A ground loop isolator is a must otherwise you'll get a lot of background noise during acceleration and when you charge your device.

I got these parts:

Goliton aux cable for Mazda

3.5mm feed-thru panel mount jack

ground loop isolator

The combination works perfectly. I drilled a hole in the center between the cigarette lighter and the passenger airbag light. There is plenty of space behind it and the part is pretty cheap (less than $20) to buy used on ebay if I must return the car to stock configuration.

it's complicated, i did it when i first bought my 16'.

and don't let just any audio installer do it, they'll just hack the shit out of the harness.

you need about $200 in parts besides the headunit to do it properly

shit and it looks like the link to the blog on how to do it is gone :(

http://roflitsowens.blogspot.com/2015/12/2016-subaru-wrx-replacing-starlink-head.html

basically you need:

dash install kit

wire to keep OEM backup camera

30pin adapter you'll cut it in half and use it for hooking all these various things together

Maestro to retain steering wheel control, there's a cheaper version though with less features

adapter to retain USB

adapter for stock antenna

adapter for radio so you don't have to cut anything


and i'm pretty sure i'm forgetting something else.

most of these things all have to be wired into the 30 pin connector, it was much easier to figure it all out on my workbench and solder it properly then install everything, took me about 2 days to do.

You can buy it here it’s like $40. You can get dual lightning or a lightning and aux like mine. Also if you charge from the car you may need one of these to keep the signal noise from the charger from going to the head unit. All in all it cost me like $150 with the mount and cables and in my opinion it’s worth it.

Really? Like this:
https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Ground-Loop-Noise-Isolator-Stereo-Systems-Audio-Systems-Included/dp/B01L1NP7YI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1505104449&sr=8-4&keywords=ground+loop+isolator

Definitely worth a try! Thanks for the tip.

They are all over Amazon and work surprisingly well. I was skeptical at first, but as long as you make a decent mechanical connection with the wires first they work great.

You can also get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JUOWB2Q

I actually spent a fair amount of time looking for a grounded USB charger like the one you linked, but didn't come across it. Thanks for linking it; I'll give it a shot with another Dot and speaker combo.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GD8627K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 this is the harness i used, has the reverse 6v signal already to go. all you need us usb retention https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DJ4KVQ6/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

then the speaker harness. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BEQJ8/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and lastly the antenna harness https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VYWSES/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

these were all the things i used to wire in my kenwood. besides the tool to keep steering wheel buttons https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J4W10XG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

the autoharnesshouse harness makes it easy to use the maestro by the way. hope this helped. i have a 2017 wrx by the way so i dont know if there is a difference with 2015 and the new 2018+s

speaker adapter rings $12 pair x2

speaker wiring adapters pair $6 x2

radio harness with amp bypass $35

JBL P660c 6.5" component set for font doors $130

rockford punch coaxial for rear fill $60

knu konceptz 4awg amp kit $35
usually i wouldn't recommend copper clad aluminum but in your case it'll be fine

dash kit $40

sony headunit $110
several options for this, but this is a decent unit.

precision power sub amp $110

soundqubed hds210 10" sub dual 4ohm $105

belva .77cuft sealed 10" prefab enclosure $37

I am over budget here, but this was quick and dirty. there are a couple areas to save money. biggest being buying a sub and amp use on craigslist. if that is possible and gets you under budget, id recommend just about everything else as is.

Connecting all of your devices to the same circuit may eliminate or lessen the problem. A ground loop isolator may solve the problem. https://www.amazon.com/REIIE-Ground-Isolator-Bluetooth-System/dp/B01JUOWB2Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494183344&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=ground+loop+isolator&psc=1 Connecting your devices optically if possible is a pretty fool-proof way of solving the issue. Here's a good video to help you understand what's happening. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GS-6jBk9YPM

I have had amazing luck with the Sony XAV-AX100. It is a very stable head unit running AA and sounds way better than the stock stereo. It also looks like it could be stock as opposed to the obnoxious ones that have a million green blinky lights. It doesn't support wireless but you can retain steering wheel controls and center console USB, just by using this custom wiring harness. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D9K3L44/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used this thread for install questions.

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2815667

I actually think this is a common issue.
You need something like this: https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Ground-Loop-Noise-Isolator-Stereo-Systems-Audio-Systems-Included/dp/B01L1NP7YI


EDIT: yeah, we posted the same product. lol

Thanks for the detailed response! I have the headset powered through the TV which has a USB port. The controller is plugged into the Xbox. I have tried plugging in the headset through different power sources, USB, my laptop, the wall, etc. There is still a humming that comes from the headset being plugged into the controller. I am going to purchase this. Do you think it will help?

Yes. I've had this problem.

You may need to buy a specific device to solve this issue.

Here is more info:
https://www.reddit.com/r/NintendoSwitch/comments/5yhpfl/switch_making_unbearable_buzzing_noise_through/

I bought the cable it recommends and it solved the problem entirely. :)

1. You'll need more than 5' of wire as you'll have to get some for both side and 5' is really not that much even if that it comes in a pair. Get something like this speaker wire spool $10
   
2. I think you're fine with that amp as long as you're using analog sources. If not you'll need to add in a DAC. What are you sources going to be? I also like an amp with some tone controls.

Hi, thank you for the tutorial. I would like change speaker but I can't find adapter in amazon Italy. They have specific technical name because in your amazon link I didn't found?

I purchased this tubing from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0017686ZC?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title It worked great for my cat. It’s fairly inexpensive and you receive a large amount.

I just replaced mine in my 06 without the Bose system. The removal and reinstallation is pretty straight forward. I do want to go back with some sound deadening material or a foam baffel to see if there is any better bass response.

I went with these "Rockford R168X2 Prime 6 x 8 Inches Full Range Coaxial Speaker, Set of 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HVGY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_bCSfTbRya1zVA "
I also used​ these so I wouldn't have to cut the stock harness
" Metra 72-5600 Ford Speaker Harness 1998-UP https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OAB6BW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_HhPhN5qVTdyWy "
You will need to crimp on new connectors for the speakers as the POS and neg are on the wrong sides.

Over all the speakers are on par with stock imo. They are a 50 rms speaker and the stock ones are 25 rms.

Thanks. It didnt seem right that it was doing that. These are what I ordered I've used them many times before with no issue. The heater heats up super fast compared to the old one. Like atleast twice as fast which is nice but has me wondering.

To add to what paxtana said, if you plan on riding in wet conditions I'd recommend using some waterproof heat shrink connectors like these. In my experience, the silicone covers that come preinstalled on those connectors don't really hold up long term in wet conditions and can sometimes vibrate loose to expose the metal they're supposed to protect. I've personally used these on all of my builds and have never had them fail.

I also linked this to you as a cheaper alternative. Works great for most cords!

I'd suggest analyzing your purpose to wanting this. Is it because you want to learn how to start doing raspberry pi/circuitry...or do you just want a GBA-cased emulator?

If you want to start learning circuitry, soldering, and raspberry pi, I suggest first starting to learn the basics of how circuitry works. Here are some amazon links for some recommended purchases, the same things I bought to start learning.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C6Q2GSY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P2E9W30/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014KK89BW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These will teach you the basics, and from there, I'd suggest learning from people who have done the project, and can provide you with the knowledge from there.

If your goal is just to have a GBA emulation toy, I'd suggest just buying one from someone who has made them - check etsy, or similar places. Lots of people have what's called a 'retropi' for sale, prebuilt. Just look for one that catches your eye.

There's also ground loop isolators, what do you think of them?

http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PLGI35T-8-Inch-Stereo-Isolator/dp/B004HJ35F2/ref=pd_sim_auto_18?ie=UTF8&refRID=1M93G0HTVE1NX2EXVBE7

I got this awhile ago and it's works pretty well.

These worked for me. nice plug and play

RED WOLF Car Front Door Pro Tweeter Audio Speaker Wiring Harness for 2010-2019 Toyota Corolla, 2008-2013 Toyota Highlander Factory Speaker Replacement Adapter Connector 1 Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RMZ4CR6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2HkTDb29AXJEX

if it helps i have this 4 guage currently running to the sub: https://www.amazon.com/InstallGear-Complete-Amplifier-Installation-Wiring/dp/B01N1SS2ZA/ and have this 10 guage: https://www.amazon.com/InstallGear-Gauge-Black-Power-Ground/dp/B01NBE1YQ4 . wiring plan is something like this: https://i.imgur.com/SKKeeVB.png

reciever

and

speakers

wire

$470ish and an amazing deal on the ELACs right now.
to be honest you could cheap out and not get a receiver, but this would allow you to add a sub and 7.1 surround down the line for less than $500

For my setup I use a male to male 3.5mm cable to plug my Switch into my PC's line in port. That way you get both the game audio and Discord audio through the same headset. Also had to use a ground loop isolator to get rid of some noise, but now it works beautifully.

These are the the ones I bought, but there are a million to choose from:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0171PQLB8/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NO73Q84/

Personally I'd spend a few more bucks and do this:

• Clarion Mobile Electronics CZ CD/MP3/WMA Receiver : http://amzn.com/B006WVX9R2
  
• Rockford Fosgate Prime Full Range 3-Way Coaxial Speaker - Set of 2: http://amzn.com/B00BF6HVGY
  
  I just figure if you're pulling your stock head unit out you might as well have bluetooth and other modern functions in it.
  
  Heck, you'll probably see a good change in sound just switching the speakers out. If they are the stock speakers in there they are cheap 16 year old cones. To make the speaker install a snap, just use these:
  
  
• Metra 72-5600 Speaker Adapter for Select Ford Vehicles
  http://amzn.com/B001OAB6BW

Yes I do have a cartridge copy but I am sure it is the 3.5mm cord since it only happens when I use that (I have tried a few cords) thinking about trying this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L1NP7YI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yeah, essentialy you'd use headphone or line out to a cable like this. Then use another cable like that from the mixer to the PC. You might need a ground loop isolator like this to eliminate any hum coming from the PCs.

I realize now this may have been what you were talking about before. I was up super late and my reading comprehension may have been suffering. For some reason I thought you were going to run both PCs into a splitter and then into the mixer. TL;DR I'm dumb.

https://www.amazon.com/Finware-Female-Bullet-Connectors-Battery/dp/B01E9HM7NC/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1480295788&sr=8-6&keywords=XT60+connector

This is what you're talking about, right? Get a multiple pack, always good to have excess!

That should be fine. It's possible to find it as a single cable too:

http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Pro-PCBL43FT6-Stereo-Y-Cable-Adapter/dp/B004G87FLY/ref=sr_1_16?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1369358512&sr=1-16

You may find you get a lot of hum or buzz, more than you do listening to the PC alone. This is probably caused by a difference in the ground between the PC and mixer. These sorts of devices can then be a very helpful addition:

http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PLGI35T-8-Inch-Stereo-Isolator/dp/B004HJ35F2/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1369358835&sr=1-8&keywords=ground+loop+isolator

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-HEM-462-Eliminator-Audio-Integration/dp/B0042ZVZZ8/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1369358647&sr=1-1&keywords=ground+loop+isolator

Maybe a grounding issue? Every time I've had buzzing issues it was fixed by a Ground Loop Noise Isolator. They sell them on amazon for like 10$

​

EDIT: I have this one Ground Loop Noise Isolator

I don't know, IIRC you can pretty much just hook up a plug straight to your radio with no further electronics or anything because your older radio supports that, but you'll probably still want one of these

I wanted to give an update.

• ROCKFORD FOSGATE 500x1
  
  
• 2 pairs of these speakers [KICKER 6.5" CS65]
  (http://www.bestbuy.com/site/kicker-cs65-6-1-2-coaxial-speakers-with-polypropylene-woofer-cones-pair-black/7708042.p?skuId=7708042)
  
  
• KICKER COMPS 10" SUB 4OHM
  
  
• 4 GA WIRING KIT
  
  
• PAC THING TO NOT HAVE TO SPLICE
  
  I'll be running the stock radio so I'm assuming everything installation related should be pretty self explanatory.
  
  Am I missing anything?

I went and bought a ground loop isolator for 15 on Amazon and it works perfectly fine. Here is what I bought https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L1NP7YI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_kWKVj3VWRUdgk


Edit: It gets a lot worse if you are using the 3.5mm as an input into a pc through line it. That's why I needed the ground loop isolator.

Yes it will work.

You will need this harness:

https://www.amazon.com/20-pin-Subaru-Headunit-Harness-Steering/dp/B01D9K3L44

and this adapter box:

https://www.amazon.com/Axxess-ASWC-1-Universal-Steering-Interface/dp/B00B4PJC9K/

If you get the Metra 70-7552 wiring harness (what crutchfield.com recommends), you won't have the steering wheel control wires and you'd have to tap in to your factory wires.

If you're convinced that the cable is introducing noise, consider an opto-isolator, close to the receiver/amplifier end if possible:

https://www.amazon.com/REIIE-Ground-Isolator-Bluetooth-System/dp/B01JUOWB2Q

It's also possible that your different cables have different pinouts and TRS spacings.

These things might help: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004HJ35F2/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?qid=1404586418&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

This happens to me too, but only when I’m plugged into aux and charging at the same time. You could try a ground loop isolator, which supposedly solves this problem but I haven’t confirmed myself.

Thank you for the more detailed information. A lot of the explanations that say what to do are always AFTER it's failed, not before. And since I don't know a lot about electrical or boards in general it's all Greek to me.

Before I go breaking my board:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/y6d8at28o7njnjf/2016-09-12%2007.53.17.jpg?dl=0

The issue is with the connector to the left of the one labeled "Power" in my picture above. I need to break the green plastic connector (directly connected to the board) and leave the pins. Then Solder these pins to the posts sticking out the bottom of the XT60 female connectors. Something like: https://www.amazon.com/Finware-Female-Bullet-Connectors-Battery/dp/B01E9HM7NC/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1484342494&sr=8-6&keywords=XT60+connector

Then solder the wires to the pins of the male XT60 connector, plug, set it and forget it. Correct?

I can't imagine there being a lot of room from the board to the XT60 connector pins. That's going to be rough for a novice solderer like me. Pre-tinning the pins on the female side will be VERY necessary.

https://www.amazon.com/Scosche-Harness-1986-1997-speaker-connector/dp/B0003NFJKA

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Metra-Radio-Install-Kit-for-85-and-Up-Ford-Mercury-Jeep/21015883?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=299&adid=22222222227015208742&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=53852898191&wl4=aud-273067695102:pla-88029148631&wl5=9011349&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=111830355&wl11=online&wl12=21015883&wl13=&veh=sem

wire new radio wiring harness to the scochse one, plug and play

Looks like the guy in this post was having the same problem, and he fixed it with one of these.

Last thing you could try is plugging the switch and PC into the same outlet/power bar.

If that doesn't work, and there's no 3.5mm output on your TV, that noise isolator would probably be the easiest solution.

This is a very common problem. It actually happens nearly every time in a car when you hook the charger and the AUX cable up to the same device. I'm not sure why your post doesn't have the answer yet given that there are already 9 comments, but the easiest way to fix this is with an optoisolator. Here's one for the car. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0031U1ATQ/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0015G2EZ2&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=19ZBRBAAJVPRFV1VREQ5
Just search for something similar with RCA jacks at the other end.

Here's another one that you could just put inline: http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PLGI35T-8-Inch-Stereo-Isolator/dp/B004HJ35F2/ref=dp_cp_ob_e_title_4

And, if you feel like wasting a bunch of money, here's a monster branded one (note the 3rd review, BTW): http://www.amazon.com/Monster-MPC-ISM-201-XLN/dp/B0009RWKKM/ref=pd_cp_e_3

I have one from [Aukey] (https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Ground-Isolator-Systems-Included/dp/B01L1NP7YI)

Edit: apparently the 14.50 dollar isolator from Kript is better at handling bass according to the top review, but it's also more expensive.

Yes, but only in hindsight!

You might also want to pick up spare pins, female ends, a crimper, and spare headers while you're at it.

Some Ribbon cable can also be useful...

I went through so many pins and headers trying to figure out the right way to crimp those bastards so they stayed put... "crimp" it.. put it in the header... give it a slight tug... cable comes out... grab a pin to lever the catch allowing the pin and female end to be removed, break catch in process, curse.. try again...

Oh well, they're cheap, and I bought a lot expecting to screw up. :)

You need a ground loop isolator, like this one

Be aware that in a lot of situations you may hear a humming/buzzing noise caused by ground loop issue. You can fix this(as i have) by getting a ground isolator like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L1NP7YI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

you need an audio filter. I run one of these with all my docks. it's because of a lack of EMF shielding or electromagnetic field shielding. see, when electricity runs through a circuit it inherently 'leaks' an EMF field. This field is then absorbed by other components (if they're unshielded) and those components absorb the field and this creates what's called 'noise' on the channel. this noise can manifest itself as hissing, cracking, or popping when heard by human ears.

most EMF noise is harmlessly absorbed and accounted for by components when doing day to day operations. but audio chips and ethernet cables are most impact by this. that's why ethernet cables are shielded. but cheap audio chips aren't unfortunately. getting a 'filter' will remove the 'noise' off of the audio 'line'. can't recommend them enough.

There's hundreds of these on Amazon but you could start here: https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Ground-Isolator-Systems-Included/dp/B01L1NP7YI/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1537908837&sr=8-13&keywords=3.5mm+noise+filter

I ran a 3.5 mm cable from the headphone port of my Switch to the audio in on my motherboard with a ground loop noise isolator in between the two. You don't need the ground loop noise isolator if the Switch is in handheld mode but if it's docked, you'll get some wicked buzzing and potentially mess up your motherboard if you don't have the isolator. Works like a charm but I'm not sure how you'd accomplish that with the PS4.

Pick you up some ground loop noise isolators for your 3.5mm connections. I had the same issue and these completely solved my issue.


https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Ground-Isolator-Systems-Included/dp/B01L1NP7YI/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=ground+loop+noise+isolator&qid=1573793214&sprefix=ground+loo&sr=8-7

This may be worth a shot

https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Ground-Isolator-Systems-Included/dp/B01L1NP7YI

It can either be two things:

1- a ground loop issue, which should be fixed with a ground loop isolator, like this one

2- an internal interference to your sound card caused by electro static interference when plugin the HOTAS. If so, maybe you'll need an external DAC to avoid such interference. Does maters where you plug your HOTAS (any USB port, through a USB hub, etc)?

Edit: please, have in mind that ground loop isolator can have an impact in audio quality, although, if you are using skullcandy headphones, you would probably not notice it too much.

Here's some that ship via Amazon Prime: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E9HM7NC/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_3?pf_rd_p=1944687442&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B005FAPYXS&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=QGZ6F6JXSQ8DRTGM8ADM

Yikes, never mind. Found them by searching, not sure why I couldn't find it til I made the post. For anyone who follows, I've found these on amazon :

housing : https://www.amazon.com/Phantom-2-54mm-Dupont-Connector-Housing/dp/B00CO87S7O/ref=lp_14034876011_1_1?srs=14034876011&ie=UTF8&qid=1485323427&sr=8-1

female connector: https://www.amazon.com/SUNKEE-Dupont-Jumper-Female-Connector/dp/B00CGWVFWW/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=02SBMEQQZTNX8JAX34V3&ref_=pd_aw_fbt_328_img_2

Is your phone plugged in for recharging? In my car, I'll get buzzing through my speakers if my phone is plugged in the aux port while charging off the car's power. A ground loop noise isolator (less than $10 on amazon) resolves this issue. This may help your problem, too.

I don't know about a video, I did my research on google, but I'll try to explain. Here's the setup:

Switch > aux > ground loop isolator > aux > PC (line-in, the blue one on the back)

Windows machines (and I assume Linux and Mac can do it to), allow you to listen to a recording device (such as a microphone, or line-in) on your speakers/headphones so you can hear what is coming through. In this case, if we're using Discord or Switch App emulated, we need to be able to hear game audio. This link tells you how to enable it.

There are a few problems with this however:

• Firstly, we have a ground loop if the Switch is docked, which causes a buzzing noise. This is caused by a loop of electricity due to the Switch and Computer being powered on the same grid (in this case, the cables in your home). To fix this, we get a ground loop isolator, which removes the extra voltage causing the buzzing.
  
  
• Secondly, I had to turn off audio enhancements on the line-in device, not sure why. I wasn't able to hear the line-in audio otherwise.
  
  
• Thirdly: Using line-in rather than microphone (this works with a microphone/redpink port also) helps avoid confusion when setting up voice chat in Discord. However, if you have a laptop (or even an older motherboard in your desktop pc) you may not have enough audio ports (or the necessary line-in port), especially if you have a headset that uses 3.5mm jacks and not usb. This can be easily solved with a USB sound card for your headset (which will also help with sound quality). Oftentimes, when you plug an audio device into a laptop, you'll get a screen like this, in which case we want to select line-in.
  
  Might I ask exactly what your setup is? This way I could tell you exactly what you need to get, and what to plug in where.

Just buy a wiring harness adapter and replace it with whatever tweeter you want.

https://www.amazon.com/Metra-72-7800-Connector-Harnesses-Vehicles/dp/B0002BEPJY/ref=asc_df_B0002BEPJY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309807586683&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=402812035962977768&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007783&hvtargid=pla-434101762016&psc=1

Assuming the cable hasn't been damaged, plug it into the motherboard (not the case, those cables are poorly shielded) and use one of these:

AUKEY Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Stereo Systems and Home Audio Systems, 3.5mm Audio Cable Included https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L1NP7YI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pNF.AbX24XD8K

If you're talking about that weird static noise, you can solve it by picking up a ground loop isolator, which gets rid of the noise.

Finally on PC...

So here is what i Use:
Cable
and
Ground Loop Isolator

Try this:

https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Ground-Isolator-Systems-Included/dp/B01L1NP7YI/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1518727416&sr=1-4&keywords=ground+loop+isolator&dpID=41ExfY%252BETVL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I use it and it really cleaned up the noise.

[these] (http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PLGI35T-8-Inch-Stereo-Isolator/dp/B004HJ35F2/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1405986076&sr=1-6&keywords=ground+loop+isolator) are what I got. They're very cheaply made, but they worked for me. Bought two... one for the left channel and another for the right channel.

I used some from a motorola 26 pin connector. They look very similar to this.

Edit: Found some on amazon for a cheaper price

I usually use the wire that comes with the battery pack --- if I need more or longer runs... I have a spool of this

I used a ground loop isolator*when I had issues with my headset and microphone and it fixed them.

Perhaps wire loom? You should be able to buy it for a LOT less at your local Home Depot, Menards, Lowes, or auto parts store.

https://www.amazon.com/20-pin-Subaru-Headunit-Harness-Steering/dp/B01D9K3L44

Was your phone connected to a charger? (or anything that is electrically connected to the aircraft in any way) If so, you'll need a ground isolator to get rid of the buzz.

Hey KyleDavies,

Something similar to this one.

https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Ground-Isolator-Systems-Included/dp/B01L1NP7YI/ref=sr_1_5?crid=19RGM3D3Q8J49&keywords=3.5mm+ground+loop+isolator&qid=1567713334&s=gateway&sprefix=3.5mm+ground+loop%2Caps%2C210&sr=8-5

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CSZAYF0/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_qgaCCb792MQ21

$16.00 plus shipping
Your done ✅

Ramps 1.4 Board - $19.99:

http://www.microcenter.com/product/442967/RAMPS_14_RepRapp_Arduino_Mega_Pololu_Shield_For_3D_printer_RepRap_Prusa_Mendel

Arduino Mega - $9.99:

http://www.microcenter.com/product/431995/Arduino_Mega_2560

4 Stepper Drivers - $12.99:

http://www.amazon.com/3D-CAM-StepStick-Electronics-Robotics/dp/B010MZ8SWO/ref=sr_1_1?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1459314924&sr=8-1&keywords=a4988&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011

15 Jumpers (included with some ramps 1.4 boards) -

http://www.amazon.com/2-54mm-Standard-Computer-Jumper-100pack/dp/B00N552DWK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1459314985&sr=8-3&keywords=2.54mm+jumper

5 2 Pin Dupont Connectors -

http://www.amazon.com/Happy-Store-2-54mm-Connector-Housing/dp/B00CO86Z6Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1459315118&sr=8-3&keywords=dupont+connectors

2 4 Pin Dupont Connectors
http://www.amazon.com/Happy-Store-2-54mm-Connector-Housing/dp/B00CO87S7O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459315201&sr=8-1&keywords=dupont+connector++1x4p

Dupont Pins:

http://www.amazon.com/Sunkee-Dupont-Jumper-Female-Connector/dp/B00CGWVFWW/ref=pd_bxgy_23_img_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=1Q5X8BG6ZJG846F7B4D1

Here are the DuPonts

Here are the Female Connectors

and if you were making wires for breadboards, you'd need the Male Connectors

You can also do it through your PC. That way you don't have to use the xbox controller. I have it set up so the HDMI is connected from my switch to the display, then I use this ground loop noise isolator and an aux cord to run the sound through my PC into my wireless headphones.

Eleac cinema 5 speaker package originally retailed for 400.00 now sells for $199

https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/onktxsr383/onkyo-tx-sr383-7.2-ch-x-80-watts-bluetooth-a/v-receiver/1.html

https://www.amazon.com/Impact-Mounts-Universal-Surround-Satellite/dp/B07RLY5TV5

https://www.amazon.com/InstallGear-Gauge-100ft-Speaker-Touch/dp/B01CSZAYF0

20-pin Subaru/Nissan Headunit/Radio Wiring Harness with Steering Wheel Switch wires

That's because it isn't grounded properly and you need an aux cable that specifically grounds the signal.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L1NP7YI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Try this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01L1NP7YI/ref=sxts_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1517562621&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65

It reduced my noise issue a LOT.

I got this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0171PQLB8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

for my video game setup but people in the reviews say they use it for their car aux to eliminate white noise. They say it negatively affects bass tho.

People have fixed it by using one of these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L1NP7YI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You might get a buzzing noise (ground loop hum) but you can eliminate that with a ground loop noise isolater.

I run the 3.5mm through one of those and into my PC's line-in so I don't have to move plugs around or change headsets, and I haven't had any issues.

Probably a ground loop issue. Check that you've got a good ground connection on both the audio lead and the power connections. If possible, have the amp and PC connected to the same power bar or double socket. If that doesn't help, isolate the systems by using digital audio out if your amp has that, or use an optical ADC powered off a separate supply, or use an audio isolation transformer https://www.amazon.com/Smof-Ground-Isolator-System-Stereo/dp/B0171PQLB8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483921456&sr=8-1&keywords=3.5mm+isolation+transformer

Do you get any noise when using that setup? I've been plugging my switch into my computer sound card input line and had buzzing until I bought a ground loop noise isolator for it.

This one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JUOWB2Q, it elminates the buzzing but makes the overall sound quieter.

A ground loop isolator, this is the one I bought

https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Ground-Isolator-Systems-Included/dp/B01L1NP7YI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1519603050&sr=8-4&keywords=ground+loop+isolator

First, try plugging the power for your computer and Receiver in the same power outlet. If that doesn't work, then get a ground loop isolator. Here is an example:

http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PLGI35T-8-Inch-Stereo-Isolator/dp/B004HJ35F2

You can get these with different types of connectors (RCA, 3.5mm, etc.).

I have the ground loop isolator connected between my switch and microphone jack on my laptop

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0171PQLB8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Best of luck! I'm not sure about '06s, but mine required these adapters. Ford used some kind of plug for the factory speakers, and I needed that in order to avoid cutting the door harness.

I did this mod yesterday on my Monoprice Maker Select V2.1

I bought this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E9HM7NC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Disassembled printer

Used needle-nose pliers to pull the entire connector (while still plugged in) directly away from the board. It takes a little wiggling but the green and orange parts of the plug should eventually work their way off the metal posts still attached to one-another. (note, no heat was required to do this)

Solder on the female end of the plug to the board in it's place. Solder wires to the male plug.

Repeat (power & hotbed connectors)

Total of 8 solder locations.

Done in about 30 minutes with very minimal soldering skills and minimal disassembly.

Edit: Also worth noting that the listing for X60 connectors I linked came with red and black heat shrink tubing.

Analog is the cheapest, fastest, and easiest.

Get a 3.5mm to RCA (stereo) Y adapter in the length you need:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-iXCC-Shielded-Gold-Plated-Stereo/dp/B019D048XC/

Problem is, you may get buzzing from poor grounding, in which case you'll need to "lift" (isolate) the ground loop -

Plug something like this in-line, after the Y adapter, before the stereo AUX RCA inputs -

https://www.amazon.com/InstallGear-Ground-Isolator-Noise-Filter/dp/B077Y5DLBB/

or a newer type (plug this into the computer first, then that Y adapter):

https://www.amazon.com/REIIE-Ground-Isolator-Bluetooth-System/dp/B01JUOWB2Q/

Just gonna leave a link here to the one I got to solve this problem a while back in case anyone needs it. $8.50 and no more noise.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0171PQLB8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Are you using the line in on your PC? You need a ground loop isolator. It'll do this with any headset you try.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L1NP7YI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Keep in mind that you might have electrical/ignition-noise related whine. If so, this will take care of it, putting it inline with the aux jack:

https://smile.amazon.com/AUKEY-Ground-Loop-Noise-Isolator-Stereo-Systems-Audio-Systems-Included/dp/B01L1NP7YI

I use the Anker bluetooth-to-aux adapter and had to get one of these to get rid of the whine in the background when I hit the gas, etc.

Buy a $10 ground loop isolator and most likely your problem will be solved. It beats having to constantly replace your units.

Piling on to agree. I play mostly docked through a monitor with no audio output, so I've always got headphones in while docked. Definitely got some buzzing/feedback, but solved it with this isolator and have had no problems since.

You need an AuKey ground loop hum remover. They are real cheap and will totally handle this problem.

Recent USB stuff causes this issue a LOT.

All my synths with USB connections cause it. I had to get one for each synth before it stopped.

It works tho!

This lil fella: AUKEY Ground Loop Noise Isolator... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L1NP7YI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I had the same problem in my 06 sr5, I ordered a ground loop isolator and it made a huge difference. This is the one I used.

AUKEY Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Stereo Systems and Home Audio Systems, 3.5mm Audio Cable Included https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L1NP7YI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_k8aKBbE70D60J

Important to note that if you DO do this method you might have some crackle from the Switch. That's because Nintendo is incompetent and doesn't use high quality parts for their headphone connector.


If you do have that crackle/static, you can get around it by using one of these.

Welcome to noisy grounds, hissing and spitting since 1969.

Buy an RCA or 1/4" TRS ground loop isolator, run it between your sound device and the input of the monitors. Problem solved.
For TRS

For RCA

They are about $15. It breaks the ground over the RCA connection which will instantly stop the noise from your computer and DAC. Switching USB ports, and using USB filters are not the best solution and might not even resolve it. Isolation is a common thing to do when running 2vRCA between any 2 pieces of equipment (or using xlr)

The ground the speakers amplifiers have, the ground on the audio cable connected to that amp, the ground of your audio device whether USB DAC or pc, all of these grounds are different, they carry different stray currents and noise, and since they are not a common ground, they act like an antenna rather than a noise blocker.

By isolating the ground over the speaker cables you break the antenna in half and remove the noise.

You've actually just ran into the real reason why XLR connections are preferred in pro-audio. Because the out of phase wiring, allows a signal wire summation that cancels out the noise. RCA and TR don't do that though. TRS (can) do that as it's 3 conductor just like XLR, but it would need to be 3 conductor TRS on both sides of the cable. I know the 305's are TRS, but what you're plugging into probably isn't unless it's a mixing deck.

I have a 2011 C250, does the C250 you are looking at have the aux jack in the glovebox?

I have a USB powered Bluetooth-to-aux streamer, got it from amazon for $20 or so, and it lives plugged in to a cigarette-to-USB adapter in the cigarette/12v plug also in the glovebox. I also have a line filter, because tehre was some whine when nothing was playing.

This is the bluetooth adapter: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0140QCYNU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the line filter: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B004HJ35F2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You could employ an audio isolation transformer between the NUC audio jack and your amplifier. For example : https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Ground-Isolator-Systems-Included/dp/B01L1NP7YI/ref=sr_1_13?crid=23LV06AA5GLO4&keywords=audio+isolation+transformer&qid=1564415768&s=gateway&sprefix=audio+iso%2Caps%2C175&sr=8-13

I had a similar problem going from the line out of my Fiio E10k into a power amp. Put this in the 3.5mm run and it fixed it.

https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Ground-Isolator-Systems-Included/dp/B01L1NP7YI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa

I purchased a similar cable harness online for my 2006 3 hatchback, and it works really well. However, old 3's and 6's produce a lot of EM feedback, so you're going to need a ground loop isolator with 3.5mm jacks like this on Amazon. . Otherwise, if you're charging a phone or accelerating hard, the noise will be beyond irritating! I got one with a long cable so the people in the back seat can connect their devices.

You need a ground loop isolator likely because when charging the speaker(s) there’s a ac/dc conversion happening. Check this out. It has helped others with same problem. https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Ground-Isolator-Systems-Included/dp/B01L1NP7YI. Some say this ones better https://www.amazon.com/Isolator-Audiophile-Frequency-Without-Distortion/dp/B01N10AQ76/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=3RV5RXTNPJ09E&keywords=krypt+ground+loop+isolator&qid=1555458843&s=gateway&sprefix=krypt+g&sr=8-3&utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app

There are audio filters (mostly made for cars) that electrically isolate the input and output at a small loss of fidelity. Example: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01JUOWB2Q/

Could be hardware issues in your setup. Higher end motherboards usually account for this, but some lower end models have the audio power on the same loop as the rest of the motherboard (from the 20/24 pin). If you don't have a high rated PSU, you could be getting "dirty power" which is known for giving whining sounds or buzzing sounds. A very simple fix is to feed a ground loop isolator, they're like 5 dollars or so I'll link you one, they basically just are low end filters for that unstable power coming out of a headphone jack.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0171PQLB8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7SFFzb5QMXFK3

Basically plug the included cable into your motherboard audio out port and one end of the isolator. Plug the Sennheisers into the ground loop isolators other port and it's like having a lil filter. Hoping this cheap solution helps, it helped my brothers problem when I build his PC from my old parts.

You might want to look at a ground loop isolator, I had to get one when doing the same as you. Without it, there was bad static, You plug the aux cable into it then into the aux in on the transmitter.

​

This is what I have used, I also use one to run sound From one PC to the Line-In on another PC.

​

https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Ground-Isolator-Systems-Included/dp/B01L1NP7YI/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1P34HN84BXN9D&keywords=anker+ground+loop+noise+isolator&qid=1551128533&s=gateway&sprefix=anker+ground+%2Caps%2C235&sr=8-5

ah hah... No I'm just a shitty american. We get weak 120/60hz.

What I can tell you though, in my car I get a feedback loop. I have to use a ground noise isolated to filter out the crap. But this should only occur when you have the phone and speakers powered by the same power source. I doubt it will work in your case since your headphones aren't powered, but it's worth a look I suppose https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01JUOWB2Q/. But if it's not changing with volume then I would think that it is a floating ground more than it's some sort of short in your phone.