(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best garage & shop products

I just built exactly what you're describing. I can share some of my experiences.

• Torquing things:
  
  
  • An AR-15 armourer's wrench is a dedicated device for AR-15 assembly and will be needed to attach the barrel, buffer tube, and flash hider. I initially got a super cheap one that couldn't take the torque and the tool's teeth snapped off while stripping a few of my barrel nut's teeth. I now use a TAPCO-brand model and it's very well made.
    
    
  • A torque wrench ensures you are tightening the barrel, flash hider, and castle nut to the correct minimum amounts using an objective indicator of applied torque. The minimum values are in the 25-35 ft.-lb range, so get a wrench that can exceed this by a healthy margin.
    
    
  • You need a vise to hold your upper and lower receiver at the individual stages where you're attaching parts, especially anything that needs to be tightened to a specified torque level. C-clamps and speed clamps are also helpful here.
    
    
  • A pair of plastic blocks clamp your upper receiver tightly to your vise. A block of magazine-shaped plastic goes into your magwell to hold your lower receiver in place on your vise. Get a combo pack of both.
    
    
  • Molybdenum-based anti-seize (greasing) compound is necessary when attaching your barrel to your receiver. It makes things easier when torquing the barrel nut and prevents the barrel from chemically bonding to the receiver. I made the mistake of attaching the barrel without it, had great difficulty tightening the nut, found that I couldn't align the gas tube properly, and then couldn't remove the nut again. Had to toss the thing into a freezer overnight to allow thermal contraction to separate the parts.
    
    
• Pushing in roll pins:
  
  
  • You want a mallet with a non-marring head for driving in roll pins without damaging your weapon's finish.
    
    
  • A roll pin starter set will save you so much trouble getting the pins aligned for the first few hammer hits. Buy it.
    
    
  • For most of my roll pins, I used a roll punch set instead of a standard punch set to drive in the pins. Roll pins are hollow and a roll punch has a small indentation that fits inside the hollow area which makes driving the pins much easier.
    
    
  • A standard punch set came in handy to keep high-tension parts aligned while I punched in roll pins from the other side.
    
    
  • A bench block is useful in holding your parts in place while hammering in roll pins, but it's not needed if you have a friend to provide spare hands at some stages of assembly. I started off using it, but a roommate's hands plus a roll of tape (to rest the work piece on) worked just as well.
    
    
• Specialty / miscellaneous
  
  
  • If you're installing a handguard that uses the standard delta ring, you will want snap ring pliers to manipulate the snap ring part of the delta ring assembly. I initially tried using improved tools. Save yourself the cursing and just get the pliers.
    
    
  • I saw a video guide to installing the front pivot pin using a clevis pin. It looks like a good technique to use and would have saved me a lot of trouble.
    
    I'm super happy with the results of my build. The process is fraught with a lot of cursing and you're probably going to lose a couple of the tiny parts (like detent pins and tension springs) but the end result will be totally worth it. You'll be intimately familiar with the insides of your AR-15 and share a sentimental connection with your firearm thanks to its DIY nature. Enjoy!

I’m an mechanic and and owner as well so I see both sides. Your intuition is right to get it out, it’s going to suck but the peace of mind is worth it.

Not sure if you already have some but some mechanical fingers will help you as it gets closer to getting it out.

The fuel will be a double edge sword, it will enable the float to float, but once it’s floating it’s going to move all over. My recommendation is once you get a visual on the float, try to grab it a bit with the fingers. If that doesn’t work get it positioned within the ribbed compartment of where the fuel cap is and drain the tank. Once the fuel is out of the compartment the float won’t be so easily moved and will be easier to grab with mechanical fingers, a bent coat hanger, what ever it takes to try to get the float close to the fuel cap.

In regards to draining the tank, obviously you can use the fuel drains but that will take forever and is kinda messy. I’d recommend purchase a siphon to speed it up. My favorite go to is the super siphon because it’s got a glass marble on the end to prime the line you just shake it up and down so there’s no drinking fuel and it has great flow once started. It comes in handy for jobs like this or say you decide to bring the extra person but your tanks are topped you can cleanly drain fuel into 5 gallon cans to shed the excess fuel. I know it says unavailable but look around the farm supply stores, home improvement stores, etc and you’ll be able to find one if you want that brand.

Not sure about the waterproof on the borescope you have. Depending on the unit it might not be waterproof but I’d check with the manufacturers specs to get an idea.

So the bad news will be if that float doesn’t float your going to have to go even deeper and remove sheet metal to find it. I imagine if your fuel tank indications were normal or at least somewhat working(at least reads full or close to it when full) it will float. This is rare but can happen.

Good luck, happy fishing!

I just ordered supplies from Amazon and would love feedback. I decided to go for a scissor jack, though that seems somewhat controversial in the DIY cider press world. The travel is amazing, they are light, cheap and I can operate it with a cordless drill.

Another big question is this 50 quart steamer basket. Cheap, but will it hold up to the strain? I guess the good news is that by going big now (12 gallons!), I can always downsize later.

I'm looking at mounting the disposal in a plastic tub, supported by a wood frame. I'm still working on the design (and will post here, with credit to you knockfer, when its done!).

Finally, instead of the very cool wood drainage platform you made, I'm opting for a simpler cutting board, and will drill a hole and attach a tube for drainage. Still figuring out that detail.

I'd welcome any thoughts about all this, and am so grateful for your inspiration! I'd never heard of using a garbage disposal as a chopper before. My wife is going to love this!

> I'm sure I'll have plenty more questions in the near future, but right now here's a couple.

NP hit me up as they come.

>Firstly, what are the appropriate applications for grease and oil? Is one more appropriate in different climates than the other? Would it be optimal to use a combination of both, applying each to different parts? I guess my main concern here is handling the extreme cold we get here in Minnesota (sometimes low as -35*F give or take).

So the only place grease should go is on the barrel nut and castle nut, if you intend to take them off again. For the barrel nut you will need a very specific grease so it doesn't seize, this is it.

For the rest, you just lube. There is some back and forth about dry lube in extreme particle environments, but you don't need to worry about that. There are a million lubes out there, all of which promise to be the next best thing. Most are snake oil. Slip 2000 is not, and I know for a fact their Slip 2000 EWL does work in -25f (cause I've used it personally, among other things). Here are all the proper points to put lube after cleaning. If you notice the rifle getting "sluggish" after a few hundred or thousand rounds (depends on ammo and conditions how long) just put a few more drops on the bolt lugs and bolt carrier rails, you can just drop it in from the ejection port while pulling the bolt back.

>edit: I'm wondering how this applies to pistols too as I have a p226. edit 2: And what about that EWL 30?

Same thing, I know Slip 2000 EWL works. I have not used EWL 30, nor would I in the cold as generally you want the lighter stuff for freezing temps. But you can always experiment with it and report back.


>Secondly, you mentioned a cleaning kit. Is this the one you were referring to? https://www.amazon.com/Real-Avid-223-5-56-Pack/dp/B011X9V70I


Correct, it is an excellent kit specifically for that AR. Comes with everything you'd ever need to fully clean one. I used and OTIS kit before the real avid, and a bunch of hodgepodge cleaning gear before that. The Real Avid just blows them away, and it is so small you can easily put it in a range bag or even large pocket.

The NATO Jerry cans are the way to go; they're leak proof and, more importantly, prevent oxygen and moisture from getting into the gas and spoiling it.

You can usually find NATO cans at your local Army Surplus store, but they can be in bad shape. Alternatively, you can get them new here (they say "not for fuel use" but they do have the orange fuel liner inside them--the stamp is for getting around California CARB restrictions) or here.

As for transferring fuel, I use either this (with a funnel) or a "Super Siphon" (this)

Add some Sta-bil to the fuel containers and you've got long-term fuel storage. I've stored gas (treated with Sta-bil) in my NATO cans and when cycled out a year later, the gas was good as new.

Edit: Clarified stuff.

Edit 2: I forgot to mention that with either the Super Siphon or the NATO nozzle, you can empty the 5 gallon can in about 60 seconds. The only nozzle I'd recommend is the NATO nozzle I linked above. I bought it from the same company I linked above and it's been fantastic. Be aware that it will not fit into a standard vehicle gasoline filler neck; you need a funnel for that. The other "NATO" nozzle variant floating around is awful. The black plastic tip (which will fit into a gasoline vehicle filler neck) will break after about the second or third time filling up your car.

[Edit] Just saw chip812's post. As he mentioned, you can skip the jack and stands and just get some ramps if you prefer. I have never used them though. Also, depending on how low your vehicle rides, you might not even need any lifting whatsoever to reach the oil pan drain plug and oil filter.

You will need a a jack stand(they come in pairs), such as these.

The emergency jack that came with your van for flat-tire repair will do for the lifting, but you should probably buy a regular floor jack, such as: this. Consult your van's manual to find out where the jack points are.

You can buy a catch-pan from your local auto-parts store. There are open-top ones, and then there are ones that seal with a lid, so that you can store the spent oil for a while before disposing of it. Up to you in which you prefer.

The auto-parts store will have a huge catalog next to the oil/air filters, which will tell you the type of filter from each manufacturer that fits your van. Not much difference between them, so go with what you're comfortable spending.

As for conventional vs. synthetic, I'm not terribly well-versed on the benefits. I've read that synthetic oil lasts longer before breaking down, compared to conventional oil. I know many sports cars require synthetic oil. If your van is a general commuter vehicle, then maybe save a few pennies and go conventional. Again, largely up to you. Brand doesn't matter terribly, as they're all pretty much safe/good for your particular vehicle.

Also note, use the containers that the new oil came in to store the old oil. The auto-parts store will have a recycling container in the back where they will let you dump it.

There may not really be a "best". Just different options and their pros and cons may change depending on the work you want to do, the space you have to do it in and the bike you are working on.

1. Front and rear stands sometimes refered to as race stands, paddock stands. The typically talked about versions lift on the swing arm, spools for the rear stand and the fronts typically lift off the underside of the front forks. They work well and are small to store when not in use their small size leaves a lot of room around the bike for your work area. Their drawback is that for work like you want to do the front stand is in the way of the forks and the weight is still on them.
   
   There is a version of the front stand that lifts off the center of the triple tree steering stem. This solves the problem of standard front stands supporting the weight of the bike on the forks. You do however need the steering stem to be hollow or at least drilled for the peg of the stand to fit into it. u/TacticoolCanadian links a hybrid stand that does both lifting options.
   
   
2. The lift you have labeled as "1" in your image. These lift the bike from the bottom. You need a fairly flat lifting point under the bike and that point has to be designed to take the weight of the bike. So for example 2 parallel frame tubes. Some shimming is often needed to clear the engine and trans case. People use rubber pads, plastic blocks or wood often bolted to the lift to sort it out. The bike should be ratchet strapped down to make it stable. The big pros here they are usually pretty inexpensive and can be found often on craigslist. They get the bike up higher allowing you to sit on a stool. Both wheels can be in the air at the same time and the bike "can" be rolled around out of the way when not being worked on if one take some care and goes slow. Cons, stability. They can straight up seem sketchy as hell as the bike is supported on the narrow footprint, strapped down it isn't much of a worry but it will get most first time users worried.
   
   
3. Lift tables. The obvious pro is that it gets the bike up to a higher working level where you can stand. However this is really just raising the ground, you still need a way to lift the bike to get the wheels off the table. The industry standard is a flat jack. Plug for the K&L, they are very durable and will out last 2 of the cheaper knock offs. The knock offs don't feel as solid but at 1/4 the price last about 1/3-1/2 as long if cared for by greasing the screw threads. Both options have adapters to allow one to come up with ways to get lifting points under various bikes.
   
   Strap the bike down appropriately for the end you need to lift. I'm not a wheel chock or wheel vise fan(the one on the Harbor Frieght table in your image is next to useless). I find them annoying and in the way anytime you need to work on the front wheel/suspension. Most all of the mechanics I have worked with over the years have eventually gone to just a angle iron/aluminum stop held in with 2 nuts and bolts finger tight. When I need to pull the front wheel I slide a section of angle under the rear wheel as a stop, add some tie downs to the rear of the bike and slowly release the front tie downs. To save on jacking the front wheel over the height of the stop on the table, remove one of the 2 bolts holding it and pivot it out of the way.
   
   Tables take up a lot of room and can make life easy. In 25 years I've never lost a bike on a table. I know guys who have when mistakes were made. It's much can cause much more damage than a low to the ground tip over off a set of stands. Most DIY home users I see have the most trouble with loading a bike on a table and getting it strapped down trying to do it single handedly. They go for the slow walk up trying to keep the bike vertical and loose too much momentum and can't get the bikes back wheel up the ramp and will try to power through it sometimes getting off balance and the bike falling away from them. Both are easily solved by letting the bike lean into you so it doesn't go over center and pull away from you. The other time is once they get the bike up on it they have to fumble around with holding the bike and strapping it down. This is where some like the self supporting wheel chocks to roll the bike into. Being alone I've found the easiest is to just have a place to set the bike down on the side stand or get it up on the center stand if it has one. I use a platform of two 4x6s and a 2x14 as a table next to the lift to set the bike on the side stand. If you have a Handy lift or the like with wing extensions you don't likely need anything. From there it's just like strapping it down in a trailer.
   
   
   There are a ton of options for DIY jacks, lifts and tables out there too.
   
   Take a look at www.homemadetools.net/site/search?q=Motorcycle+Lifts&Search=
   
   One of my favorite that can be done cheap is to simply extend one of the motorcycle lift jacks to turn it into a table. I've thought about doing this to add a 2nd part time lift in the garage here at home.

When you camp like this you typically cook/clean/meal prep on your open tailgate so having a level surface is ideal. Also helps to not sleep on an incline. Many campsites are sloped and uneven, so aligning your vehicle for the easiest access and best views can be a challenge.

Camping trailers and RVs typically have scissor jacks on the corners for this reason. The more common method to level your vehicle is to use these lego style blocks. However that involves trial and error and can take a while and you are limited in the adjustments to the thickness of the blocks.

https://www.amazon.com/Tri-Lynx-00015-Lynx-Levelers-Pack/dp/B0028PJ10K

This design allows for finer adjustments, depending on how good you are using the gas and brake pedals simultaneously. 😎👍

I ended up using a friend's motorcycle jack, similar to this.

It worked out great, as we could strap it down using one of the arms of the jack to help keep it from wobbling and tipping around when pushing the new engine back under. The guide also suggests using a furniture dolly, which I imagine would work just as well, if not a bit better since the supports on it are probably a bit wider, helping to balance it better.

My personal favorite review: the Blitz 11849 Dispos-Oil. It's a jug for used oil. I quote the review below:

>I have always tried to save money. I buy the cheapest oil and filter for the family vehicles, and I always change it myself. However, I started experiencing the ill effects that all people must deal with from being a "home mechanic", the inevitable dead spots of grass in the backyard.
>
>After some time, the 40-50 qts a year being dumped into the backyard starts to take its toll. I noticed less wildlife, the well water was starting to have an icky taste, and I accidentally started the dirt on fire when my lawn mower hit a rock and made sparks.
>
>I had enough, and I wanted to start helping the environment.
>
>I purchased 24 blitz oil containers from amazon, and I could not be more happy. They are easy to bury, and look great in the ground.
>
>Now to my review of the product:
>
>It is sturdy and lightweight, something I look for in underground burial containers. It easily holds the rated 12 qts of oil, and doesn't appear to leak.
>
>Why not 5 stars?? My only complaint is the width of the product. If blitz would have made it slightly shorter, but also fatter, it would be much easier to put in the ground. I currently have to dig a 22" deep hole which seems kind of silly to me. I have also busted a cap when I was back filling around the container. Blitz should have thought ahead with this design and realized that shovel to cap contact would happen for most people.
>
>I do suggest this for the "tree huggers" and "greenies" out there, as it will make you feel like you're really doing something good for the earth.

I use a Big Red motorcycle jack that I also use to jack the wife's car for oil changes (with jack stands, of course). Got it on sale from Harbor Freight for about $49 years ago, they go for around $89 now.

Once you get the plastic off you can simply jack the bike using almost any jack, pivoting on rear wheel and sidestand (making sure bike is in gear so it doesn't roll). Then remove calipers, axle, and take wheel off. If you can manage to lift it without taking plastic off (as in the video below) that would be good as well.

You'll get told not to let the calipers hang by the hoses... so don't let calipers hang by the hoses.

This video shows front/rear removal, front starts about 3:45.

If you have the stock took kit it might provide what you need. Allen/hex wrench for the axle pinch bolts and the plug socket might fit the axle. Otherwise the guy in the video gives advice on a tool to get the axle out.

If you don't have much in the way of automotive tools, it's going to be an allen wrench set (for the pinch bolts), 22 or 24mm axle tool (or plug socket the appropriate mm end), valve core tool (some valve stem caps have a core remover end), bead breaker, and spoons.

If you have a gearhead friend they'd almost certainly have everything you need except maybe the axle tool (a correct plug socket possibly) and spoons. Walmart has a spoon set for about $19.

When you get to the actual tire removal/install, it's all about technique. The tire can be a bear to get off unless you keep the bead opposite from the side you're working on in the center well. Same is true when installing the new tire. I use a big C-clamp to keep the opposite beads together and it keeps the bead in the center of the wheel. Also, it might help to lay the new tire out in the sun as you begin the project. Warming it helps make it flexible.

Air... you're going to need to air the new tire enough to seat the beads. This can be about 60psi or more so prepare for that. If the new tire beads won't seat while you're airing it up, you may have to bounce the wheel/tire to get the beads to contact the side of the rim long enough to contain air. This can get very frustrating. A compressor helps because with a large volume of air it doesn't require the bead to contact very long, it almost immediately seals the tire and begins to seat the bead.

My tire change from a couple of days ago.

edit: all that and I forgot, most tires are directional. One of the tire change photos points that out. Having done this many times, like anything else trying to tell someone how it's done, many steps get left out because after so many iterations much of it is done unconsciously. Make sure you have a tire gauge handy. Some people get crazy about balancing, I don't balance but do line the yellow dot (if there's a dot) with the valve stem.

Remember that you only get the lesser of 50% or $500 for both the charger and the installation/ESA inspection for a maximum total of $1,000 incentive.

Some suitable alternatives:

Super economical charger that delivers near 5kw of power. Not hardwired but has a weird sized plug. Good for the Volt, but maybe not a future vehicle and also on the list of eligible chargers:
https://www.amazon.ca/Leviton-EVBL2-P18-Evr-Green-Electrical-Charging/dp/B0173JGZNQ

Another economical charger that gives you a little bit of future-proofing as it delivers 9.6kw of power and on the list of eligible chargers. Hardwired though so tougher to take with you if you're going to move:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01MY70I8N

ChargePoint chargers - good for future proofing, wi-fi connected, but a little more on the expensive side. Comes in both hardwired and plug versions. 10% off right now helps, but discount expires July 9:
https://www.chargepoint.com/en-ca/products/home/summersale/

Which is a good design and it protects from the oil pan from road debris. On most, three small torx bits and it bends enough to drain the oil easily.

Regardless, VAG recommends suction from the top as more oil is captured than with a drain only as a slight vacuum with get everything in the TSI oil cooler, whereas a drain won't necessarily. I get more out of the system (volume nearing fill capacity) with a vacuum than without.

A decent pump works wonders.

https://www.amazon.de/SEALEY-Vacuum-Extractor-Manuelle-6-5ltr/dp/B000RA16CO/ref=sr_1_2?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&keywords=Sealey+TP69&qid=1570201757&sr=8-2

or

https://www.drapertools.com/product/77057/Expert-Manual-or-Pneumatic-Oil-Extractor

edit: youtube example (not me, I'm much more handsome.)

6l with the pump recovered. 150ml left.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLo6HuGv8iI

I'm more than OK with that ratio.

It uses two types of oil. One you mix directly with the gasoline to lubricate your cylinder( like a weed eater or chainsaw). And the other type is transmission oil, like a car and exactly like your CBR600 you put it in your transmission and you have a small oil filter as well.



When I had a YZ250 I would run "Rotella-T 15W-40 (non-synthetic)" in my transmission, and I would use "Lucas Oil Semi-Synthetic 2-Cycle Engine Oil" in my gasoline and I mixed it 38:1 sometimes 40:1.



edit: keep in mind that as a new two-stroke rider you really need to make sure you're mixing the oil in your gasoline correctly. I would go pick up a Two-stroke measuring cup and a nice 5gallon(18.9L) Gas can that won't spill while mixing.


http://www.amazon.com/Ratio-Premix-Mixing-2-Stroke-Measuring/dp/B0088PR5BQ


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AVQCCCW/ref=s9_simh_hm_b13uKb_d0_g263_i1

I live in a 1br in a walk up as well. KangarooCornchips pretty well covered it although I just stick with one good torque wrench, a big adjustable, a cheap Stanley socket set, vice grip, and a flip out hex and torx set. A good JIS screwdriver would be useful too.
Don’t forget there should be a cheap oem toolkit stashed somewhere on the bike, not that it’s enough.

The only thing directly motorcycle related I’ve needed was a cheap jack similar to this
https://www.amazon.com/LiftMaster-Motorcycle-Center-Scissor-Hoist/dp/B01NCT4IKW/
It’s not too heavy to haul downstairs although it is annoying

I’ve been able to do everything from valve clearances to swingarm replacements in my complex’s covered parking lot. The only problem is running back and forth for all the bulky peripheral things like cans of penetrating fluid or degreaser or an oil jug.

I got one of these from Amazon for about $6 USD; works great and the tape that came with it is still holding up beautifully after 1.5 years.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EDUUIA/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

But I have an old laser light from an aquarium lighting unit that I found while cleaning up the basement the other day and after reading this thread I might have found a new use for it!

Great! I bet if you look under the car, behind the front wheel or in front of the rear wheel, inside of the side skirts or other plastic moulding, right near the pinch welds, you'll see some triangle arrows stamped/marked/notched out.

Also, you may be interested in something like this for your jack:

https://www.amazon.com/DEDC-Universal-Slotted-Rubber-Medium/dp/B01MA232WY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1510856163&sr=8-3&keywords=pinch+weld+jack+pad

I love seeing the GXs out there.

Pick up a set of these to make leveling SO much easier. Most smartphones have a level on them too...

https://www.amazon.com/Tri-Lynx-00015-Lynx-Levelers-Pack/dp/B0028PJ10K/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1537759070&sr=1-4&keywords=rv+leveling+blocks&dpID=51jMjecwppL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I'm about 3 miles from a station. Do you just use something like this? http://www.amazon.com/VP-Gallon-Square-Racing-Deluxe/dp/B00AVQCCCW/ref=lp_15707861_1_7?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1395344426&sr=1-7 - Never used one before, I assume the hose makes it pretty easy to fill up the car? I am talking w/ EQ tuning

Go to a coin op wash bay with heated sprayers and do a wash with your own soap, bucket, and mitt when you can. Dry with a water magnet towel before driving off and shouldn't be a problem.

Pro tip, bring your own water for filling the bucket to save time and money; I carry mine in a clean jug like this.

Here's a good resource: http://m.wikihow.com/Siphon-Gas. I personally have this device which makes it very easy: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D2QL0DU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_J9D.yb7A80KC5. Either way, wear safety goggles in case there's a splash, and dispose of the old gas appropriately.

Looking around on harbor freight I found this which I also found on amazon http://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-10803-FloTool-Transfer-Pump/dp/B00D2QL0DU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1450393738&sr=8-2&keywords=transfer+pump

This might be perfect, thanks!

The issue is, really, that the P30 chassis was built to a spec... and then the motor-home/coach builders said 'fuck that spec' and just built whatever they wanted on top of it. Extra axles, lengthening the frame to absurd levels, not changing specs on brakes, etc. I had a 97 fleetwood that was 3000lbs heavier than the chassis rating, and 1000lbs heavier than what it's own label said it was (empty!)

One thing I see a lot on P30s is the front sway-bar bushings are completely gone. Enough so that the sway-bar is completely disconnected (only the bushings hold it on!) Take a look underneath, make sure that the swaybar is even there... without it in place and with solid bushings, that rig will be absurdly difficult to control, and a white knuckle ride all along. I like Energy Suspensions poly, super firm, makes the vehicle feel totally different. Check the rear sway as well.

Front steering bellcranks are commonly worn too. Give em a wiggle, if they move at all, they are worn out and the vehicle will just kind of have a bit of a mind of its own. Give it a good brake check. The ABS system sometimes goes awry and it's pucker factor 9.0 when you're rolling that fat bitch down a hill and the pedal sinks. At the very least, bleed and inspect the brakes and their pads, pretty much assured to not have ever been done.

Look at how low the front of the frame is to the ground. If you get a flat, do you have a jack onboard that will fit under there? Probably not. P30s are 'heavy' enough that you'll be calling a heavy wrecker for a tow, or paying for heavy-duty roadside, which can be spendy. Find a jack that will fit under there with a flat tire, and make sure you have a nice long lugwrench to get those lugs off. Keep em onboard. Also some 2x6's or Lynx Levelers so you can roll a flat up onto them to get some clearance. Also handy for leveling the rig on when camping!

Your tires most likely will be aged out, and dryrotted, before they wear tread down. If the tires are over 3 years old, or over 5 if they were covered, consider replacing them. Also, duals have a tendency to go low on air and cover it up thanks to it's neighbor, especially insides. Get a proper air gauge, and make it a point to verify all 6 tires PSI every time you stop for fuel. At the very least, when you start a trip.

Parking brake is almost assuredly crap, doubly so if it's an auto-parking brake. Get chocks, read up on how it works now (there are a few versions, and you can end up locked up and stuck if some versions fail.)

Another tip: If you are going somewhere with water, dont fill up. If you are going somewhere without water, fillup as close as you can to the destination. Lugging around 100 gallons of water (around 850lbs) adds a lot of annoying mass to your machine. Learn about the plumbing, water pumps, one way valves, water heaters, and pex pipes are very common failures that can end your trip!

No kidding. I was amazed when I found out that you can get one of these for like $40.
http://www.amazon.com/Powerzone-380033-Steel-Floor-Jack/dp/B003UM42J0/ref=sr_1_6/191-5799343-8330658?ie=UTF8&qid=1406656029&sr=8-6&keywords=car+jack

Or you can do things the easy way and get a couple of these if you just want under the car...not so great for changing a tire.

http://www.amazon.com/RhinoGear-11909-RhinoRamps-Vehicle-Capacity/dp/B006EGAIII/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406656071&sr=8-1&keywords=wheel+ramps

Are you getting a 32a to future proof for other EVs/PHEVs?

How important is having a 240v charger right now to you? Can you get away with 120v?

If you're looking at getting a full EV in the next few years, I'd suggest something a little more reputable. The one you linked doesn't have a UL safety listing. Since you already have a 50a breaker (or at least you should, please double check that and the wiring gauge), if you're planning on buying something to use for years to come I'd suggest a Clippercreek with 6-50 plug. CC 40a - $660 or the CC 32a - $590

Or there are a whole plethora of EVSEs out there if you're willing to change the plug type (probably need to reduce the breaker to match the plug using the 80% rule?). They're pretty easy to change if you're handy. You could also pay $55 for an adapter.

If you don't plan on having more than a PHEV with 12a anytime soon, I'd suggest getting something a little cheaper, lower amp rating, and high quality (from what I can tell, don't own one.) The AmazingE would be plenty for you. It's cheaper, UL listed, a lot of internals are made by clippercreek and is very similar to some of the Chevy (IIRC) EVSEs. If my wife changes jobs, the AmazingE will probably be what I buy for her to charge our LEAF at work.


Full disclosure, I don't own a Niro and I'm not an electrician by trade. Check your local codes as needed.

Get one of these:

http://smile.amazon.com/Hopkins-FloTool-11849-Dispos-Oil-Recycle/dp/B0014FKI1Q

and one of these:

http://smile.amazon.com/Hopkins-FloTool-10709-Spill-Funnel/dp/B000EH4V18/

Read and learn this guide:

http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Bio-Diesel

Buy one of these:

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/vw-jetta-tdi

Pour in your tank.

Profit.

Also, since you are on the 2nd floor and above, you probably want to learn to take the stairs or something to even out the deep fried candy.


Edit: Forgot, be sure to put an Apple sticker and/or a Linux Fish on the back of your VW for full credit.

Here are 4 options, and the electrical is pretty basic and can be very cheap if your power box is near your driveway. It is like putting in another stove plug or less. I'm building my own house and I've set up for when I buy an EV. My guess is if things are right you can get it in for $1,500 and then get the rebate back for 75%.

https://www.amazon.ca/EVoCharge-Certified-Connector-Hardwire-Warranty/dp/B00FVE9Z6U

https://www.amazon.ca/AeroVironment-Charger-240V-Amp-Cable/dp/B00AAKQWKM

https://www.amazon.ca/ChargePoint-Connected-Electric-Vehicle-Hardwired/dp/B071YDGJYZ/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_263_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=97V0HEZGHG41RQ4A7YW6 and a wifi one.

https://www.amazon.ca/Leviton-EVR30-B18-Evr-Green-208-240Vac-Hardwired/dp/B01MY70I8N/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_263_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=NMF82DPMY2RXV7WPCJG1

I know you're not looking for a siphon but I'd recommend one of these for transferring gas.
Just put it in the can shake up and down and you're good to go

https://www.amazon.com/Super-Siphon-Hose-Pack/dp/B000ZORJ1E

This is way better, albeit $65, it makes life easy. raise it up until its just below your bike frame, slide it under, crank it 10 times, and you're off the ground. easy peasy.

I bought this one off amazon and it has worked great. It’s compact and inexpensive.
Zeny 1100 LB Motorcycle Center Scissor Lift Jack Hoist Stand Bikes ATVs (#01) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01860HLCU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_Vo3KRPVWIXCJz

Is there a good wall bracket/holder for the Gen2 mobile charger? Something like this thing that isn't overpriced?

Where did you find this pic? Cause googling "topside creeper" gave me an Amazon link to this exact product with this exact pic as it's first image.

https://www.amazon.com/Traxion-3-100-Foldable-Topside-Creeper/dp/B00QGXSODA

Thanks for letting me know this is a thing, I've wanted something like this for a while. Even at 6'2" it doesn't feel too nice having battery terminals or whathaveyou ground into my gut.

Cheap and works perfectly.

Bastens mobile charger wall... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079RL6XL4?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I bought a jiggler siphon just for this reason. It works great for transferring fuel. Every other siphon I've ever used does not even compare.

Buy a vacuum oil extractor and don't worry about either. You stick the tube down inside the dip stick tube and give the tank a few pumps and let the vacuum do all the work. They'll extract as much, if not more, oil than letting gravity pull it out of the sump plug, and you won't have to worry about messing up the sump plug or getting under the car. You also won't have a chance to get oil all over you or your driveway.

Apparently these are very good.

This one seems more comfortable: https://www.amazon.com/Traxion-3-100-FFP-Foldable-Topside-Creeper/dp/B00QGXSODA

Yes, this has been a law for 10 or 15 years I think.

It seems like I always end up spilling more gas trying to get these caps to work than I do with the old normal gas cans.

I use one of these little siphons most of the time now. You shake it and the ball bearing in the end gets the siphon started.
http://www.amazon.com/Super-Siphon-Hose-Pack/dp/B000ZORJ1E

Something like this would do fine: https://www.amazon.com/Torin-T10152-Scissor-Jack-1-5/dp/B004PX8BC2

Did not realize model S is almost the same length as honda odyssey. Got this block installed and it give good tatile feedback. Might need to invest in some foams

The gas station is in front of the grocery store. That's the station I use since my grocery-store rewards card gets me a ~$0.30/gal discount.

So if I'm around 1/4 tank or less, then the next time I need to go to the grocery store I pull into the station first. Fill up. Then I park, which takes maybe another minute since it's 100' away.

It's definitely possible. I don't see how it would be possible for daily plugging/unplugging to only take me 10 seconds unless I was literally just throwing the wire/plug on the floor. But here, I can tell you exactly how long it took my wife this morning since I've got a camera on the driveway...

She puts her hand on the plug, unplugs, walks it back to the garage, whips the cable in to clear the garage door when it closes and plugs it on the dummy-plug on the wall next to the EVSE, then walks back to the driver's door. 16 seconds.

She didn't roll the cable. She didn't have to get the wind out of it (to be fair that doesn't really happen with our 3.8kW EVSE she was plugged into, but the 7.2kW EVSE is another story. And that time obviously doesn't include her plugging it in tonight.

I'd have to be literally racing to plug/unplug to do both in 10 seconds, and I'm still not sure it's possible.

Complaining about either is really meaningless. And like I said, I prefer plugging-in. But time-saving? Not IME.

We have Leviton 240 charging stations at work. They look like this. The cars with disconnect alarms enabled definitely go off if unplugged.

I bought this off of Amazon... works nicely.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079RL6XL4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OpIkDbVP6TFCJ

Actually, they do make adapters that will fit onto the pinch welds. Link: https://www.amazon.com/Saddle-Adapter-Rocker-DP-Company/dp/B01N1ID2KZ or https://www.amazon.com/DEDC-Universal-Slotted-Rubber-Protector/dp/B01MA232WY/ref=pd_bxgy_2/139-4332485-1348812?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01MA232WY&pd_rd_r=73a3427b-60bf-11e9-b2ef-bb2ae37525d6&pd_rd_w=X1N83&pd_rd_wg=tRvUY&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=C93C6VH3BXPWX027P1JQ&psc=1&refRID=C93C6VH3BXPWX027P1JQ Lexus/Toyota write their manuals assuming that you will take your car to a mechanic. I have a Corolla myself and I do all of my own work.

That said, I do have a jack (actually 3), jack stands, and wheel chocks (My car is a manual transmission). I will never work on a car with just the scissor jack.

Edit: One additional line.

I've been surprised how much I like/use leveling blocks. I got this kind, but they are all basically chunks of plastic.

OP: They take up a lot of space so I wouldn't make them a gift unless I knew the recipient was interested them.

These work really well and pretty fast. You would just need some empty gasoline jugs to hold it.

Something like this works fairly well... it's basically a 3/4" hex wrench that fits snugly over the jack:

https://www.amazon.ca/Camco-57363-Leveling-Scissor-Socket/dp/B001V8U12M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511197626&sr=8-1&keywords=scissor+jack+socket

https://www.amazon.com/Traxion-3-100-FFP-Foldable-Topside-Creeper/dp/B00QGXSODA All ready on the market.

probably fell out of a siphon tube like this one https://www.amazon.com/Safety-Siphon-Safe-Multi-Purpose-Priming/dp/B000BG1X54

Bastens Mobile Charger Wall Holder for The Tesla Model S 3 X Y to Relieve Stress on Wall Plug in Addition a Clean Look w/Ease of Quick Removal from Wall https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079RL6XL4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EBa1CbEHT3M88

Yup. They pop off and then the jack can get to the pinch weld. Make sure to use a pinch weld adapter if you are using a normal floor jack.

The lugs are the same size(21mm) and the jack will work, the Prius hasn't gotten much heavier in the past few years. So any tire iron that's 21mm will work, and any jack that is rated to lift 3100lb will work.

However if I had a chance, I would get an aftermarket jack that will be more reliable than the stock ones. This looks like a good option. Hell, put that together with this wrench and you'll be set. Can't get much cheaper than $30 for this stuff.

I was about to do something similar then it struck me : I could just put something on the ground to stop the wheels.

$10 at amazon : best investment ever :
http://amzn.com/B000EDUUIA

My front bumper stops at around 1.5in from the wall so I can walk around the back of the car with the door closed. Works A1

There are plenty of cheap EVSEs.

The off-brand 16A "AmazingE" is only $221 USD.

The necessary safety components such as built-in GCFI for high-wattage and subsequent certifications adds to the cost. (The AmazingE is not UL/CSA/etc. certified).

Risking one's $20K+ EV/PHEV over a few hundred extra dollars is foolish.

You're probably okay to do as you describe. You may wish to get a rubber piece or some wood to prevent damage to the pinch weld though.

I have a piece like this: https://www.amazon.com/DEDC-Universal-Slotted-rubber-MEDIUM/dp/B01MA232WY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497976672&sr=8-1&keywords=jack++pinch+weld

In practice though I use my jack for the front cross member without issue. It scrapes the plastic skirts a bit getting under there but it goes.

You could use a siphon, this one is nice, but it's up to you.

https://www.amazon.com/Safety-Siphon-Safe-Multi-Purpose-Priming/dp/B000BG1X54/ref=pd_sbs_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000BG1X54&pd_rd_r=XWCVJD41NX5A5PW7R86W&pd_rd_w=DNCYy&pd_rd_wg=c1NOC&psc=1&refRID=XWCVJD41NX5A5PW7R86W

Remember, they are just stabilizers, not jacks. They just help take out some of the bounce. You can pick up a bit for your drill so you can use a cordless drill for raising and lowering.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Leveling-Scissor-Adapter-57363/dp/B001V8U12M/

I picked up this one from Amazon for $100 w/prime shipping

It's pretty clear that you can buy one of the adapter cables I showed from Amazon and never realize that you're doing something “wrong”. Buying an extension cable is not really “electrical work”.

But for those who worry, please do provide a link to some of these “cheap” UL-certified adapters. The Amazing-e is $257, which isn't nearly as cheap as getting an adapter cable.

(Buying a non-UL certified cheap adapter may be worse for risking your house burning down than the adapter-cable on stock-EVSE approach.)

I am a 5'5" woman. My husband didn't believe there was such a thing when I told him I wanted a topside creeper for my birthday, so I'm still standing atop a Yeti cooler to reach the plugs on my Chevy truck.

Topside creeper for all my shorties out there.

They stack up kind of like legos. I carry a set of ten. they come in handy.

https://www.amazon.com/Tri-Lynx-00015-Lynx-Levelers-Pack/dp/B0028PJ10K

Use this:
https://www.amazon.com/Safety-Siphon-Safe-Multi-Purpose-Priming/dp/B000BG1X54

I bought these for this eventuality, but I haven't had to use them yet: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0028PJ10K

https://www.amazon.com/Traxion-3-100-FFP-Foldable-Topside-Creeper/dp/B00QGXSODA

Traxion 3-100 Foldable Topside Creeper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QGXSODA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YwOsDb885ZBXN

Edit: I should mention I've not used that brand just wanted to show you the concept.

I prefer the topside creeper.

https://www.amazon.com/Traxion-3-100-FFP-Foldable-Topside-Creeper/dp/B00QGXSODA

You could siphon it out. It would take a while but there would be much less work involved.

http://www.amazon.com/Super-Siphon-Hose-Pack/dp/B000ZORJ1E

Floor jack + tire skates = relocating his car to the very furthest parking space in the lot in less than 5 minutes.

I use on of these.

A topside creeper is your answer.

Torin T10152 Big Red Steel Scissor Jack, 1.5 Ton Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004PX8BC2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_W5puzbYSS6Q5W


This'll'do'er

uh what did i just find??

You can if you want.

It was designed for working on pick-up trucks.

Not sure, it’s this one

These guys. Mixed results for me, they do much better on asphalt but gravel sometimes they becone damaged. I still like em though

Tri-Lynx 00015 Lynx Levelers - 10 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028PJ10K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_McYADbZF2238R

Get one of these to transport it to the store. I just walk into the back of any advanced or autozone and dump it in their tank.

Even the siphon hoses are out of stock at Amazon Canada :/

https://www.amazon.ca/Super-Siphon-Hose-Pack/dp/B000ZORJ1E

If you have Amazon Prime, theres a bunch of options on there for small little containers of 33ms, no need for a large tube, and you'll get it in 2-days with Prime.

I got this one, in the 1/4oz version. I've used it for 3 builds so far, and i still have a lot of it.

I bought a sealable plastic container from Autozone . Drain the oil into a pan, then pour the pan into the container. Any auto parts store will have an oil dump where you can empty the container.

What kind of bike needs a lift for an oil change?

Poor people can use Lynx levelers. Blows your stealth, tho'.

> I wouldn't sweat an extra 150 lbs primarily because you won't be carrying that 150 lbs during landing when the weight could work against you impacting stall speeds, maneuvering, etc.

1. Ramp check
   
2. Emergency issue and has to land
   
3. Minor issue, but SHOULD land
   
   Not going to say I never had some "taxi fuel" in the plane when I started a flight. But there are several reasons why it could be a bad idea. Even a slight accident landing at his destination that involves the FAA and they calculate he was over MTOGW when he departed is enough to make them want to jump on him an MAYBE make his insurance company claim they don't owe him anything.
   
   Personally I would, and have, drained some fuel from the plane. I have three five gallon plastic fuel cans at my hangar (actually four, but I use one for old oil). I have a piece of rubber tubing that fits over the quick drains. It is pretty simple to put one end of the tube into the jug, and one over the quick drain and open the drain.
   
   Or you can buy one of these https://www.amazon.com/Super-Siphon-Hose-Pack/dp/B000ZORJ1E
   
   I also have one of those. I use it on my SeaRey.
   
   As for the fears of fire.... Take precautions. But it is better to have a fire on the ground because of fueling issues than a fire because you had an incident (of course the chance of an incident is pretty small...... But it is small in either case).