Reddit mentions: The best polishing & rubbing compounds

Hope this helps! This isn't an exhaustive list of the best professional products but some of the best top rated affordable and highly rated by forums and high subscriber YouTubers. I'll try to answer questions as they come. Thanks for all tye comments and positive/critical feedback. Promise is all helps in the end!

Wash/Decontamination

1. Meguiar’s Gold Class Shampoo Car Wash - $23 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071HR14SJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
2. Mothers California Gold Clay Bar System (Best out of the packaged kits compared to “professional” line expensive clays/lubes) - $16 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002U2V1Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
3. Carpro Iron X Iron Remover 500 ml with Sprayer - $19 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UM6DLE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
4. CarPro Eraser Intense Oil & Polish Cleanser (Rated a little higher than Gyeon Prep – A few options out there but this is cheap and works great compared to straight IPA spray/wipe. It’s not rough on the clear coat and doesn’t cause issues with using higher % of IPA over time) - $17 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FY0XY1S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
5. 2x Five-Gallon buckets with a dirt guard in the bottom. – Lowe’s $10-$15 with the dirt guard (already had that)
   
   Wheels/Tires
   
6. CarGuys “Premium Wheel Cleaner” - $17 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014V9GFJU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
7. Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish (Classic Product but you really won’t find a more reliable and top notch wheel polish than this – Here is Amazon link but usually you can pick this up cheaper at Walmart for about $4 or $5 I believe) - $7 - https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05101-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B0009H519Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549046381&sr=8-3&keywords=mag+and+aluminum+polish
   
8. 1x 2.5 Gallon Bucket Dedicated To Wheel Cleaning ONLY – Lowe’s $5
   
   Compounding/Polishing
   
9. Meguiar’s New m110 (Newer m105) Compound (Try To Find A 15% Coupon) - $40 - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/meguiars-m110-pro-compound.html#.XFRhIlVKhpg
   
10. Meguiar’s New m210 (Newer m205) Finishing Polish/Swirl Remover (Try To Find A 15% Coupon) - $40 - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/meguiars-m210-pro-finishing-polish.html#.XFRhIVVKhpg
    
11. 6x Pack Lake Country CCS Compounding/Polishing Pads – 3x Orange/2x White/1x Green – $60 (Try to find a usable 15% coupon) - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/ccs-pads.html#.XFRfgVVKhpg
    
12. Meguiar’s PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish (Using for rear/front light polishing – Could use your compound to polish as an alternative but I like the protection factor built into this plastic polish) - $5 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AY3SR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
13. Car Foam Drill Polishing Pad Kit - 22x Piece 3” Buffing Pads (Cheap drill adapter + pads for head/tail lights only – You could go with a legit company for 3” pads but for the cost it was a joke and they are only for head/tail lights, NOT paint) - $11 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076ZJMHB1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Finshing Wax/Protectant/Plastic & Trim Restorer
    
14. Meguiar’s Ultimate Liquid Wax - $16 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HCM9H4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
15. TriNova Plastic & Trim Restorer (Hard Pressed to find anything as affordable for the ratings) - $13 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AAZ1OAE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Interior/Glass Cleaners
    
16. 303 PROTECTANT: Interior & Exterior UV Protectant (Use it to wipe leather seats, dash, and plastics) - $10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0185PU38A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
17. Invisible Glass Premium Glass Cleaner w/ EZ Grip (Awesome stuff) - $4 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KAON5Q2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Convertible Fabric Top Cleaner/Protectant/Sealer
    
18. RaggTopp Fabric Convertible Top Cleaner/Protectant Kit (This is top in class. There aren’t really any other higher rated options. Go with kit that has cleaner/brush/protectant sealer.) - $50 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008MM5ZFI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Microfiber Cloths/Car Drying Microfiber Cloths/Buffing Microfibers/Brushes/Etc.
    
19. Zwipes Microfiber Cleaning Cloths (24-Pack) (**Found this on a couple lists online for high ratings and they are soft/Highly rated on Amazon and cheap!) - $13 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANZHG7C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
20. Chemical Guys Chenille Microfiber Premium Scratch-Free Wash Mitt (Might consider 2-3 of them for washing the top and bottom parts of car – prevent further scratching) - $7 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TTL0TE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
21. Mothers Wheel Brush - $8 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GJ3DZS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
22. Chemical Guys Microfiber Wash Cleaning Detergent Concentrate (Almost all the videos put this one as #1 compared to a couple other companies that offer dedicated microfiber wash detergent) - $10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TJXWH4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
23. Chemical Guys Woolly Mammoth Microfiber Dryer Towel (25 in. x 36 in.) - $25 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042Z0LEO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
24. Other Random buffing foam applicators and microfiber cloths that came with some of the kits listed above. Will use those for compound wiping and etc.
    
25. Plastic Containers For Organization – Hefty 1.625 (Microfiber container) & 3.75 (Other products w/o squirt triggers) Gallon Containers I believe are the ones in the picture. These are awesome considering the cheap pricing. The plastic is heavy duty and the lathes aer decent all things considered. - https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hefty-1-625-Gallon-6-5-Quart-Clear-Tote-with-Latching-Lid/1000505511
    
    

First off, it's ok. I use those car washes often, because I don't have the facilities at home to wash my car there. Here's my step by step for easy, simple car care that does the 90% solution. (I.E. NOT paying $120+ for a detail, and NOT spending 6 hours on my car every week)

Go the the car wash, at night so the sun isn't baking the soap into your car.

Initially rinse the car at a low-power setting (usually not pulling the trigger on the wand will result in a half power spray) This is so that you aren't driving contaminates into your paint.

Soap the car down with the soap setting, still just spraying it. Soap the whole car and make sure to work top-down and the contaminates are running off.

Rinse car again. Rinse the brush too, very well. Feel it with your hand and ensure there's no grit.

Soap up car with brush, don't push hard, just light swirls.

Rinse car.

Immediately pull out shammy cloth or microfiber towels and dry car.

Go home for the rest of these steps.

buy Zymol brand cleaner wax

This stuff is fantastic. Ok, start on the top, spread a small, half dollar size squirt on the paint, and rub it out to cover 2-4 sq feet, keep rubbing and then stop, let it dry. (0-30 seconds, maybe as long as a minute) Then use a second cloth (dry) and rub it off, work in small circles. The paint below should be crystal clean and most of the slight spiderwebs in paint should be filled.

Do this to the whole car.

Go back and look over the paint. You'll find some deeper scrapes and scratches that aren't totally gone. That's ok. Use this: Meguiars Scratch-X It's great, use a small ammount (dime size) and rub into the scratches, polishing them and wipeing off the dried material with a second, clean dry cloth.

Now your whole car should be shiny, and not have any spider webs! Use any simple Meguiars brand polish to make it shine a bit more, but at this step I just use the spray on stuff.

Make sure to buy many many micro fiber towels. They are cheap. If you drop one on the ground, put it in the wash and grab another. I go through 8-10 when washing/ waxing. I know it sound common sense, but only use one for wax application, one for wax removal, one for glass, etc etc.

Now for wheels, I use this: TUFF STUFF It's safe for everything, it's also what I use to remove stains in the interior and clean my floor mats. It's super cheap and works great!! Spray on a wheel, wait 30 seconds, wipe off. Removes 90% of road grime and brake dust immediately. May need to touch up a couple spots. Rinse wheel off. Spray tire foam on the tire, wipe off excess.

Your car should look great and be scratch free. I will typically go out and 3-4 days later gently wipe off my car with micro fiber towels, and then go over with the quick detail spray by meguiars. Takes 10-15 minutes and the car instantly goes back to looking like I just washed it. During the summer I'll do this 2-3 times between real serious washings, so I only have to wash fully once a month!

(but my car is silver and easier to keep clean)

For the exterior, here is a copy and paste of a previous post of mine. Everyone may give you slightly different advice as there are many valid ways to do this. This routine has worked very well for me for many years.

• Clean well with soap and water and a good microfiber cloth. (removes all dirt and oil build up.)
  
• Dry it with another cloth. I like a big cotton towel.
  
• Clean with a good oxalic acid based cleaner such as Star Bright hull cleaner, or The works tub and tile cleaner(NOT THE TOILET CLEANER) Applying with a one gallon pump up sprayer works great for me. Rinse well. This removes any rust stains.
  
• Dry again.
  
• Buff with an oxidation remover. I like this one. I apply with a 10 inch random orbital buffer and application bonnet, and remove while still slightly wet with the same buffer and a wool bonnet. In heavily oxidized areas you may need to do this more than once. If you do not have oxidation, feel free to skip this step.
  
• Next buff again with a cleaner wax. I like this one same process as above, but let it dry to a haze before removing.
  
• This will leave you with a clean hull and a nice shine, if you want an even deeper shine, make one more buffing pass with a nice marine wax. I like this one
  
  It sounds like a lot of work, but once I got the process down, I found I could do all of these steps on a entire 23' boat in less than 4 hours, and it leaves it looking like new.
  
  Edit: I forgot to mention, for the outside of the windows I like this stuff. It cleans as well as a normal glass cleaner, and causes any water that hits the windshield to bead up and run off. This is a nice bonus for many boats as they often do not have windshield wipers.

Hey guys i'm new to this detailing scene..but I do hope to learn a lot from everyone! I have an 05' white civic and the exterior isn't terrible, but there's definitely parts where there's medium oxidation and swirl marks. Just overall the paint doesn't feel glossy and smooth, just weathered and feels like metal.

Please let me know if I got the steps correct...any inputs is greatly appreciated!

1. First do a thorough wash, and dry completely.
   
2. Clay bar the entire exterior (I'm going to use http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002U2V1Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)
   
3. Here's where I don't know what I should do...do I compound or is that not necessary? I'm thinking if I skip compounding, I will use Scratch X (http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10307-Scratch-X-2-0/dp/B0002UNON8)
   
4. Then I will Polish with This: http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Ultimate-Polish-16-oz/dp/B004HCOE8Q
   
5. What do you recommend I do next? Could I follow the Mother's 3-step Ultimate Wax starting with this product? http://www.amazon.com/MOTHERS-07100-California-Gold-Polish/dp/B0002U26QE
   
   

• By the way, as you see I have attached the pictures...what do I do with the oxidation on the exterior windshield trim?
  
• Next, this paint damage, I was thinking to get a touchup paint from the dealership, but how should I apply this?
  
• Lastly, whats the most effective way to clean this part..the door jambs?
  
  Thanks so much for all your suggestions and inputs. I hope to learn a lot from all of you.
  
  PS. Extra question, I'm doing a roadtrip after the detail...(stupid i know) but what's a good product to get rid of the bug stains while I'm out on the road?
  
  THANKS!!
  

>Whistles That is one NICE looking hood, you almost have me drooling on what the truck could look like. Ok so!

>1st: Nice two bucket cleaning

>2nd: Clay the car. was thinking of ordering this. From what I picked up from that Porsche 912 video in the sub and from the sidebar, I spray the clay lubricant on, then with little to no pressure wipe back and forth with the clay in a 18"x18" area. Does that sound right?

>3rd: Acquire rubbing compound and hopefully a DA polisher. (By the way if getting a DA polisher isn't possible, is this still attainable by hand?)

>4: Nice coat of wax

>How does that sound?

Correct. A 2-bucket wash will get most of the dirt off while not marring the paint any further than it already is.

Also, that is a very good clay kit. I will pre-warn you, claying is the absolute worst part of the job. It's rewarding afterward, but such a pain. If you want, there is stuff called "nanoskin" that has pretty much the same effect as clay but it requires a lot less effort. Check Amazon for "nanoskin fine grade sponge." It's like 11 bucks. Note that you'll still need to buy a quick detailer like the one in the clay kit for general purpose spray, so you may want to go for the clay kit. Get nanoskin when you're a little more familiar with detailing.

As you rub the clay, be sure it's well lubricated so the clay just glides. You will feel resistance to the gliding until the clay picks up all the grime. Then the clay will flow smooth. That's when you knead it and move to a new section.

If you choose to go DA polisher, beware that there are a lot more purchases that go along with it. You'll also need a backing plate and pads. That can become pricey. Polishing is attainable by hand, but very time-consuming. I'd recommend going panel by panel, day by day with hand method. Claying an entire car, then hand polishing it will make you want to never touch a car again haha.

I recommend you wash and clay the roof, then polish and wax. On a different day, do the same to the hood. The next day, tackle a quarter-panel. This will keep you sane.

First off, the subreddit that inspired me to start cleaning cars: /r/AutoDetailing . They've got some great material there, along with resources, instructions, and more.

First, clean the windshield. If it's not been done in a while, you'll have to do it very well. Prepping the windshield is the most critical part to a good coat of RainX. My preferred method is to begin after washing the car. Get some good glass cleaner, like Stoners, spray it over the windshield, then use a razor blade, holding it at a 45 degree angle to the glass, to scrape down the windshield in and up and down and side to side pattern. This won't scratch the glass, but help remove embedded particles. After you've finished scraping the glass, wipe down the excess window cleaner with a clean microfiber towel. Then use a clay bar to go over the glass one more time. This picks up any additional leftover contaminants left in the glass. Because it's clay, it will want to stick to the glass, so you can use the Stoners as lubrication. Once done, wipe the excess off with a window with some type of glass rag. Now you can apply RainX. Using a microfiber towel folded a few times, put a small amount of RainX in a corner and begin working into the glass (I've seen AmmoNYC use foam from packaging before). Use circular motions and check it from a few angles to make sure you've covered everything. The product should form a "haze" a few seconds after application. A little bit goes a long way with RainX. Some guys recommend turning on your windshield defrosters and running them as hot as possible for a few minutes before applying the RainX, I've not noticed a huge difference. After 5-10 minutes, use a glass towel to begin buffing it off. You can sprinkle a little bit of water on the window during this process to help take it off, but I just stick to the towel. You can apply a 2nd coat immediately after for improved results, but anything beyond that doesn't help. Double check your working by looking at the glass from all angles (inside/outside) to make sure you didn't miss a spot. Enjoy driving in the rain with no need for windshield wipers above 35mph!

Hope this helps. Again, prepping the glass is the most critical part. You're creating a clean surface to put on the hydrophobic materials of RainX. If there's dirt still in the glass, that's something the water can hold on to and not bead off properly.

You can totally DIY paint correct with a dual action polisher.

Here’s a straightforward shopping list and guide. This will knock out most if not all of your swirl marks.

Shopping List:

Machine Polisher - PORTER-CABLE Variable Speed Polisher, 6-Inch (7424XP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002654I46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l7SADbKPP1Q6Q

Backing Pad - Astro 4607 5" PU Velcro Backing Pad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CH3Z8W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_T7SADbZ187WK1

Bugging Pads - Chemical Guys HEX_3KIT_5 5.5" Buffing Pad Sampler Kit (4 Items), 16. Fluid_Ounces, 4 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J588UNG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_d9SADb8WF470V

Compound - Meguiar's G17220 Ultimate Compound, 20 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W5HCZ9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_M9SADb0ADEMZJ

Finishing Polish - Meguiar's M20532 Mirror Glaze Ultra Finishing Polish, 32 Fluid Ounces, 1 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001O7PNXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_i-SADbWXADMQT

Wax - Your preference

Here’s the guide:

1 – Tool Prep

Set aside the dual-action polisher, backing pad, and foam pads. Remove the included backing plate that’s already attached to the Porter Cable polisher, use the included wrench. Re-attached using the Astro pad, secure tightly.

2 – Wash

Wash your car by hand, preferably using the two-bucket method. Afterward, move the car into your garage or shaded area. You’ll want to be out of direct sunlight, keeping the paint as cool as possible.

3 – Clay Bar

Clay bar the entire car. Make sure to wipe down the finish afterward, keeping it as clean as possible.

4 – Compound Buffing

Grab your machine polisher, the Ultimate Compound, and the orange pad. Attach the pad to the polisher using the velcro backing, make sure it’s centered. Prime the pad by dabbing 8-10 dime-sized amounts across the surface. Start working one section at a time, around 2 x 2 feet. Before you turn on the polisher, press the pad against the paint. Compound polish should be soaked within the pad, along with the paint. Press the pad against the surface, set to speed setting 2-3, and begin spreading the compound around in quick passes. Then, turn it up to 5-6 and let the fun begin. Use overlapping, slow passes. Once you’re done, wide the area clean with a microfiber towel.

5 – Inspection

Check out your results of the first section. Go over the area again if most of the swirl marks aren’t gone. If the swirls are gone, but a light haze is present, don’t worry. The finishing polish will take care of it.

6 – Polish Buffing

Use the M205 Finishing Polish with the white pad. Follow the same steps from before. Prime the pad and rub it against the paint before turning on the polisher. Use a max speed of 3-4 with medium pressure. The Finishing Polish will take care of the rest of the haze and micro scratches. Once you’re finished with the first section, wipe clean.

7 – Inspection

Again, check out the results of the M205 Finishing Polish. It’s doubtful you’ll need more than one application, but double-check all the same. If it’s looking great, move on and finish the rest of your car.

8 – Wax

Your paint is looking great. The swirl marks are gone, leaving a bright clean finish. Apply the wax using the black foam pad. Use very light pressure, letting the pad float along with the paint. You’re just coating your car’s finish, that’s all. Wipe clean with a microfiber towel.

Here's a long thing I wrote for a friend just getting started. It was an email and i don't feel like fixing links.

1. Menzerna (Now called Jescar) Power lock Sealant:
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050IQH9K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
2. Optimum Spray Wax (this is a topper wax to go on top the sealant, or touch up areas any time):
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GG9FI8I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
3. Meguiar's Drying Towels (I HIGHLY recommend these, super effective) I got 2:
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQZFM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
4. Mother's detailer kit (gives you detail spray, clay bars, and micro fiber towel as a bonus)
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Mothers-07240-California-Gold-System/dp/B0002U2V1Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1476666101&sr=8-3&keywords=mother%27s+detail+kit
   
   
5. Applicator pads
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Viking-862400-Blue-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B0051MYL8E/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1476666178&sr=8-3&keywords=wax+applicator
   
   
6. Buffing towels (for buffing in the wax or sealant)
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Detailing-Multi-Use-Microfiber-Professional-Dual-Pile/dp/B01L4L4L26/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1476666651&sr=8-17&keywords=microfiber+buffing+towel
   
   
   
7. Proper wash mitt (just a microfiber towel won't cut it) - there's also a 2 pack with prime.
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3002-Microfiber-Wash-Mitt/dp/B000RXKR6M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476667551&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+wash+mitt
   
   
8. Car wash (this can be found at any autozone like store as well, this is a big bottle)
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05664-California-Gold-Wash/dp/B0009H51B2/ref=sr_1_9?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1476668207&sr=8-9&keywords=car+wash&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011
   
   
   
   
   Do you have 2 buckets to use? Always set one bucket up with the soap water, and the other with just water. Soak up your mitt, wash the car, rinse the mitt, then soak again in the soap water. This helps reduce contaminants. If you want to go the extra mile, get these for the buckets to prevent dirt from swashing around the bucket:
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Grit-Guard-Insert-Red-Diameter/dp/B000N3W8J0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1476667750&sr=8-2&keywords=grit+guard
   
   It fits in a home depot bucket.
   
   If you have particularly pesky tar or bugs on the car, you'll need this that you can get from any autozone type store:
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Stoner-Car-Care-Tarminator-Remover/dp/B0002LBGWI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476667917&sr=8-1&keywords=tarminator
   
   WARNING **
   
   When using the power lock (or any sealant / non-liquid wax), DO NOT let it touch any black plastic or rubber parts of the car!!!!! If it does, just wipe it off with a wet micro fiber cloth. Failure to follow this will result in a white hue on the black piece. You could always painter's tape off those areas that are hard to avoid.
   
   Steps for this process:
   
   
9. wash the car, two bucket method with wash mitt.
   
   1b) Bring the car to an area with as little sun light as possible for the next steps!
   
   
10. Leave car wet. Use detail spray to keep all surfaces lubricated. Rub all surfaces down with a flat piece of the clay bar (flatten in your hand). About 2" diameter or so. Every panel or when the clay bar looks dirty, just kneed it a few times, folding it and re-flattening it. Every so often, throw out the clay and get some more. If you drop the clay on the ground, it's garbage throw it out. Each clay bar should last you multiple details of your whole car, just tear pieces off.
    
    
11. Dry the car down with the MF drying towels. Buff in any water spots, streaks, etc from the detail spray. If an area needs a little extra love, spray some detail spray on it and rub her in.
    
    
12. Use applicator pad. Apply a bit of sealant on the pad, even it out in the pad, and apply a thin layer of wax across the paint surface (NOT BLACK TRIM). You can use sealant on windows if you desire. Re-apply sealant to the applicator pad whenever you need more.
    
    
13. let the sealant dry (20-30 minutes, depending on conditions). It will haze when dry.
    
    
14. Use buffing cloths to wipe the haze out. You may need to do some hand "buffing", use different angles of sight to make sure the paint is now completely smooth and clean.
    
    
15. Let dry a bit, 20 minutes?
    
    
16. Spray VERY LIGHTLY with the optimum spray wax on paint surfaces. There are 2 settings on the bottle, make sure it is on the setting that spreads out the wax not a stream.
    
    
17. Buff in the spray wax with buffing towels.
    
    
18. ENJOY protection. Watch the beads of water fly off the car for the entire season.

Yes, agreed. 800 -> 2000 grit. You will want to alternate directions (ie. if you are doing left & right with 800 grit, then go up & down with 1000 etc) and make sure that the scratches left behind by the previous grit are all gone before moving to the next one. You'll want swirl remover like Meguire's Ultimate Compound after you finish with the 2000 grit. There are several grades of swirl remover with finer and finer grits -- if you're really anal about it, you can get a coarse and a fine, but I only used the Ultimate compound and it worked well for me. It's a lot of work, but can be a really rewarding experience if you get the result you're looking for. You might even find you enjoyed it in the end and start building/refinishing your own partscasters, which is what I do now :)

Good luck!

Hello,

I've read the wiki and its a huge resource. Thank you to all who put it together!

Some of the product reccommedations are unavailble on Amazon so I just wanted to ask a few questions with regards a brand new car I bought and see if these products are whats needed:

So firstly, washing the exterior of the car:

I have Meguiars Gold class wash, I have two buckets, and grit guards, I will do the two buckets method. Now do I dry the car with:

this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ERU0F3A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A1RKELVBY446LD&psc=1 or

this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GXRFLY4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A1RKELVBY446LD&psc=1

Once I have washed the outside and dried it with the towels, I then apply the wax, I will be using #845 - can I use these to apply it:

https://www.amazon.com/Viking-Car-Care-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B0051MYL8E/ref=pd_bxgy_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0051MYL8E&pd_rd_r=BG4S92NE1D9CH9E2J67C&pd_rd_w=HVEIG&pd_rd_wg=6EheM&psc=1&refRID=BG4S92NE1D9CH9E2J67C

I know I needs to get a clay bar or a micro sponge I'm just not sure where/how this fits into the process, what items do I need to buy

These?

https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-07240-California-Gold-System/dp/B0002U2V1Y/ref=pd_bxgy_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0002U2V1Y&pd_rd_r=BG4S92NE1D9CH9E2J67C&pd_rd_w=HVEIG&pd_rd_wg=6EheM&psc=1&refRID=BG4S92NE1D9CH9E2J67C

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CUAWJ6G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Lastly, I am buying this window cleaner -

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006SH4KU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_8?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Is it safe to use inside and out? I would imagine spray directly on outside windows and just use some microfiber towels like this - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WC5KQGE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A1RKELVBY446LD&psc=1 to clean it off? On the inside I would imagine spraying directly onto the cloth would be better.

Do I clean the outside windows after the car has been cleaned and waxed?

I understand the basic process and with this being a new car I want to be 100% I'm doing the right thing, I fully intend on washing it every other week and taking great care of it!

Thanks

Tim

You can buy everything online, though it's easier to go to a harbor freight with a coupon if you have one. There are plenty of polishers you can buy online of course, but none are as cheap (at least with decent quality) as the harbor freight model. You can of course buy a much better polisher at your local lowes / home depot however unless you have a lot more use for it it's probably not worth it over the harbor freight one (a good polisher will cost you $200+). Everything else you can find at any auto parts store, or maybe even walmart.

Here's some links

• Polisher - http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-variable-speed-dual-action-polisher-69924.html (no matter what you want a dual action polisher, as other kinds require more skill to avoid damaging your paint)
  
• Cutting pad - http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-compoundcutting-foam-pad-60311.html
  
• Polishing pad - http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-polishing-foam-pad-60309.html
  
• Ultimate compound - http://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM?sa-no-redirect=1 (you can skip if your paint isn't bad, no bad swirl marks or scratches)
  
• Ultimate polish - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HCOE8Q/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687402&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B001O7PNNM&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1P9X3VP7TVA943BYC6C7
  
• Sanding block - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQYZ8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (if you're going to use touch up paint)
  
• Microfiber rags - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANZHG7C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Wax applicator pads - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051MYL8E/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1
  
• Duragloss - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002W0ZNIU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Color matched touch up paint (if needed) - http://www.automotivetouchup.com/
  
• Detail clay - http://smile.amazon.com/Simoniz-S57-Perfect-Finish-Detailing/dp/B0081OSRQQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1414207600&sr=1-2&keywords=clay+bar
  
• Foam applicator pads - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQZPW/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1
  
  Basic steps:
  
  

1. Start with touch ups if needed. Apply touchup paint to chips with a toothpick, in small amounts. Let it dry and do another one, build it up until it's above the level of the surrounding paint (may take many coats). Let it dry at least several days and make sure it hasn't sunk in. After it's dried for several days, use some water and the sanding block to gently sand them down flush with the rest of the paint. It will look bad, don't worry. Give the paint a few weeks to cure before moving on.
   
2. Wash the whole car with dawn dish soap and let it dry. Mix up some dish soap (maybe 1 tablespoon) with water in a spray bottle. Spray a section with the soapy water and then rub it down with the clay. This is a very mild abrasive which will remove contaminates, tar, bugs, etc and give you smooth clean paint. Wash car after.
   
3. Use the rubbing compound with the cutting pad everywhere you can. Don't try to get into tight areas or spots where you can't put the pad flush, because you'll shred the foam pad. Do the tough spots by hand with foam pads. Wash the car to remove any residue.
   
4. Repeat with the polish pad and polish, same technique as with cutting.
   
5. Apply the duragloss to a clean car by hand with the cloth applicators. Use sparingly, then wipe off with microfiber rags.
   
   You are done! In most environments the duragloss will last 6+ months. If you keep your car protected with it, you won't need to do the cutting/polishing again (or at least, not for a while).
   
   The trickiest part of the whole process is the compounding and polishing. Here are some helpful videos.
   
   

• How to use a dual action polisher - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xrse_DBaUbc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5MYqiBLIU9c
  
• How to touch up paint - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=15T08rfuTSg
  
• How to clay your car - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fqW1nzgyMNA
  
  And that's about it! It's easier if you don't do touch ups, but I figure if I'm going to put this much work in it, might as well get them. And if you do it right (with careful application and then sanding) the touch ups look nearly flawless (most look terrible because people don't bother to sand them flush).
  
  edit: two other tips...
  
  

1. If you have black rubber trim, say around the windows, mirrors, door handles, etc you either need to keep the polisher away from it or put masking tape on top of it. The rubbing compound and polisher will scuff up softer materials like rubber and it will look bad.
   
2. When working with the polisher, always turn it off while still on the surface of the car (preferably still moving it) and let it slow down before lifting it off. If you life the polisher off at full speed it might send the polishing pad flying (it's held on with sturdy velcro). When this happens the velcro is basically shot and you're going to need to get a new pad. If you make sure you always turn it off while still in contact with the car, and you don't try to put it on any sharp corners or narrow areas where you can't get good flat pressure across the whole pad, you should be able to do the entire car with a single pad.

You want to use a cutting compound, then a polisher, then a wax and polisher mix, then a wax. It can be done by hand but it'll be tedious work, a polisher is recommended. you can get a 6 inch polisher on Amazon for cheap

[Cutting compound] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B001O7PNW8/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2X258V2JG0MWL&keywords=cutting+compound&qid=1570408658&sprefix=cutting+compound%2Caps%2C213&sr=8-3)

[Polisher compound] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Clear-Coat-Polishing-Compound/dp/B006FUT154/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2GPHAWV9X86T2&keywords=polishing+compound&qid=1570408671&sprefix=polish%2Caps%2C203&sr=8-5)

[Wax] (https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-Polishing-Compound-Scratch/dp/B0009JKGJ2/ref=sr_1_7?crid=1QLIV2CDVRQM8&keywords=wax+compound+for+cars&qid=1570408763&sprefix=wax+compo%2Caps%2C190&sr=8-7)

[Orbital Polisher] (https://www.amazon.com/DECKER-WP900-6-Inch-Random-Polisher/dp/B000077CPT/ref=sr_1_5?crid=PM4UWG6DWJ5C&keywords=polisher+machine+for+car&qid=1570408680&sprefix=polisher%2Caps%2C196&sr=8-5)

I also recommend you completely clean the spot with a clay bar as well so you don't scratch the paint more with crud that's already imbedded in the paint.

[Clay bar] (https://www.amazon.com/IPELY-Detailing-Magic-Cleaner-Clean/dp/B0753FSQN6?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_5)

Good luck!

Hey you can try hand buffing it with Meguiar's ScratchX. http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10307-ScratchX-2-0-oz/dp/B0002UNON8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404933405&sr=8-1&keywords=scratchX

It will take a lot of work, but you should be able to visibly improve it with a lot of elbow grease. Wash car, use clay bar, wash car again, scratch x the scratch, apply polish, apply wax. When using scratchX, work in a shaded area, work a 6 inch area of the car at a time, spread the product evenly and work it in circles for about a couple minutes. Repeat 5-10 times. Then cover with a wax protectant / sealant.

Products I recommend:

Meguiar's Scratch X, Meguiar's Soft Foam "4 applicator pads, Meguiar's Supreme shine microfiber, Gold Class wax.

This kit has everything you need, but I recommend picking up some extra foam applicator pads and supreme shine microfiber towels: http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G55032-Complete-Car-Care/dp/B0012ZEZ8A/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1404932960&sr=8-7&keywords=scratchX

Here are a couple videos that'll help with the use of products.

clay bar

everything clay bar, compound, and polish

As for the products I use/like I personally like the Meguiar's Ultimate compound and polish. However there are a ton of other options that do as well/or better. For clay I use a range of products, but for your use I would say Chemical Guys clay bar kit would probably do what you need.

Just an FYI you don't need to invest in a dual action polisher to compound and polish, it can be done by hand and save more than a couple dollars...but it'll take a while. I'd say start with clay and see where you're at afterwords. If you still have a bunch of paint transfer then go from there. Another thing I've heard will remove paint transfer (i've never tried it personally) is a carnauba wax, so if you have some around you can give that a go first.

If you do need paint work (it probably won't be as severe as a key) but this video will probably help if you want to try and tackle it yourself.

>This caused a around 1mm mark on my car. Would you guys think this is a scratch?

You may be able to buff it out if it's minor.

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10307-Scratch-X-2-0/dp/B0002UNON8

>I know some people really recommend using the parking brake on manual cars, but should I be using it on my car? My car is automatic and not manual, but if it is recommended and safer, I may just give it a try.

Yes, use the parking brake. When you park an automatic, there is a small dowel about the size of your pinky that snaps out of one part of the transmission into another. That is all that holds your car in place when you shut it off.

>Any other tips would be great, I am just completely excited to be driving, it is quite fun!

Check fluids and tire pressures weekly. Oil, coolant, brake fluid.

Always address any new sights, sounds, or smells immediately before they can snowball into big bills.

Look wwwaaaaaayyyy down the road whenever possible. You can often avoid troubles if you see them in advance. The same goes for using your mirrors.

Enjoy!

Cool, so if you want to do it yourself, the basic things you need will be a clay bar (often sold as a kit with the "quick detailer" you need as a lubricant- see here). You will need a good number of microfiber cloths throughout the process. And then the main thing, is you need a dual-action polisher.

Popular options for the polisher include Harbor Freight, Porter-Cable, and Meguiar's. A lot of people have good results with the Harbor Freight polisher which you can pick up for, off the top of my head, something like $70. The porter-cable 7424XP is like $120ish, and the Meguiar's MT300 is about $200. Of course, if you wanted to spend more, there's Flex and Rupes, but you don't need any of that for personal use.

With the polisher, you will need pads- in your case, some pretty aggressive cutting pads along with finer polishing and finishing pads. There are a ton of options here. I would recommend at least two of each level of aggressiveness.

And with that, you will need compound and polish. Again, lots of options here, but at the very least you will want one more aggressive type of compound and then a finer type of polish.

You'll also want a couple other things, like a brush and soap to clean your pads with, and I recommend looking into using a diluted alcohol solution to clean between compounding and polishing steps.

I personally am a fan of Meguiar's, and in my opinion their lineup makes thing fairly simple. If you want to go the most cost-effective route, you could still buy the Harbor Freight polisher, and then use meguiar's pads and product (many people say the Harbor Freight pads are garbage, I have never used them so I don't really know).

As an example, you could use the Harbor Freight polisher, with Meguiar's microfiber cutting pads and M105 compound, then Meguiar's foam polishing pad and M205 polish.

There are so many options it's easy to get lost and confused, overall I think as long as you do enough research to understand the process of

washing->decontaminating->compounding->polishing

it won't make that much of a difference what products you use.

Look up Junkman's series of videos! In one set he stands up and dances on the hood of his car and then shows you how to fix the damage.

certainly.

1. wash bike from to to bottom, after that use a clay bar on the paint! cant stress that enough. It removes all the embedded contaminants that the wash doesn't remove.https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Smooth-Surface-Clay-Kit/dp/B00063X7KG
   
   
2. grab your buffing wheel (witch I used) or apply by hand some compound this is what I used https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM?th=1 use medium pressure with this, its super easy to put on and off. Just follow the instructions.
   
   
3. after your done compounding the paint apply a polish, let it dry to a haze and wipe off. I used something like this https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-GAP-106-16-Polish-Sealant/dp/B004LPAP2I/ref=sr_1_10?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1486936548&sr=1-10&keywords=car+polish
   
   
4. and final step, apply your wax to protect all your hard work, same application as the polish https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Ultimate-Liquid-Wax-oz/dp/B004HCM9H4/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1486936678&sr=1-4&keywords=car+wax
   
   
5. also clay bar your wheels if they have a clear coat on them then apply a wax, don't get too crazy on them, but get the protection on so they stay shiny
   
   
6. in between washings/ waxings use a quick detail spray
   
   also see r/AutoDetailing for the noob questions/ info. Its a huge help. so is Youtube! hope that points you in the right direction!
   

If you have a free weekend and really feel like getting your car clean, get a claybar kit like this, and after that's done, give it a nice wax. You will be pretty amazed at how smooth and slick the paint is after this.

Wow. I should get into paint correction. <$250 for all the tools and polish and waxes. As a car guy, I don't mind waxing my car every 6 months (or 4 months if you're in the frigid north or are anal). I also feel it's foolish to drop $2k-4k on these nano-quartz-bullshit schemes that a lot of car guys swear by nowadays. If you want to drop $4k on paint protection, go for it, but I can get a full window-out repaint for the same price!

Here's what I learned:

Buy the equipment:

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46

https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Action-Hook-Flexible-Backing-Plate/dp/B0008G1RDK

https://www.costco.com/Kirkland-Signature-Microfiber-Towel-Case%2C-324-count.product.100341124.html

https://www.amazon.com/Collinite-Liquid-Insulator-Wax-845/dp/B000JK2D06

http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country-beveled-pad-kit.html (MIN: 2 orange, 2 white, 1 black, 1 blue -- I prefer doubling this order; Autogeek almost always has 10-25% off coupons on their mailing list)

You will also need an extension wire with the appropriate gauge (too thin/cheap cables might cause you to burn your Porter Cable motor!)


Buy the compounds (start with UC; if swirls aren't getting cut, move up to 50%/50% UC and 105 on the pads; finish with 205 regardless):

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM (medium aggressive)

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B003LMGDHI (most aggressive)

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B001O7PNXC

Wash your car with this, and the two-bucket method:

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7164-Class-Shampoo-Conditioner/dp/B0009IQXFO

https://www.amazon.com/Zwipes-Chenille-Microfiber-Premium-Scratch-Free/dp/B002J7KCOG

Claybar the car:

https://www.amazon.com/YGDZ-Quality-Detailing-Claybar-Shipping/dp/B01MF4BVVS

It took me about 5-6 relaxed hours on a Sunday with a few beers for the full correction. Now I simply top up the wax every few months (and that only takes 30 min).

The thing is, once you do the full correction and get rid of all your swirls and scuffs and whatever clearcoat damage (wash + claybar + M105/UC + M205 + wax), then you don't have to do the FULL correction ever again.

Ever again meaning, if you wash the car properly thereafter with the two-bucket method. You'll simply need to top up the wax once it stops beading -- the wax will protect the clearcoat from damage and swirls.

My wax lasted 6+ months being daily driven in the California sun with three coats of Collinite 845 -- I assume if yours will see more snow and ice and rain, perhaps it'll only last 3-4 months. But since a bottle costs <$20 and you'll get at least 36+ layers out of it, I always recommend this versus the "nano coatings" that people are shelling out $2-4k for.

Here's the Collinite fanboy thread:

https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/40243-collinite-845-definitive-how-guide-legendary-wax.html

Any other questions, feel free to ask. Good luck!

The first thing I would try is this:

Meguiar's Ultimate Compound

Meguiar's X3070 Soft Foam 4" Applicator Pads

Meguiar's X2020 Supreme Shine Microfiber Towels

All 3 of those together is under $20 (need to spend $25 since one is an add on item). This stuff is amazing for scratches and paint in general. While it won't make your car showroom ready, it will make it look much better and is totally worth the $20.

Essentially what you do is first make sure the area is clean, then apply the compound to the pad and rub the compound on your car using circular motions. After you do that for a minute or two, use the towel to remove the compound form the car.

Most of the clay out there is very similar, but there are different grades of clay (read: aggressiveness). Nanoskin is great for the "average Joe" who has a reasonably clean car but needs to decontaminate it, and clay is great for a 100% decontamination job like a very dirty or neglected car.

If you're new to claying... I'd suggest getting this kit, or something similar. It has everything you need as a beginner. I used these all the time when I first started detailing. I finally needed more so I bought in bulk and gallons of lube at a time.

The second thing I'd recommend is getting a small, fine nanoskin sponge. You can try it without dropping $45 for a mitt or pad and see if you like it and the results you get when working with it.

you may need the iron remover eventually but you can wait to buy it until you actually need it.

FCC and Microfiber cutting pads

yeah, compare 10 gallons at $19 vs 10 gallons of invisible glass or whatever which is almost $200.

they are more expensive but you will have a better surface for waxing when you don't have a soap that has wax in it.

d101 may not be strong enough to get the wheels totally clean, that's where d143 will come in. d101 will be good on plastics though.

cleaner for the plastics would be d101. leather you could do leatheriques pristine clean for cleaning and the rejuvinator for protecting. they're expensive though, you might look into optimum leather conditioner or adams

Clay bar is so much work but definitely worth the trouble, I try to do it once a year. 2-3 times a year I'll give it a really good wash, use klasse all in one followed by klasse sealant. Dirt/spots buff off with a microfiber, and I can wash the car very quickly once this is done. It does such a great job of creating that protective layer. It's on the expensive side but you use so little of each product that they will last you quite awhile.

Edit: doh, forgot my claybar brand...mother's

WOW. That's a savings of $30. Thank-you.

This will complement the Meguiar's quick detailer I already have.

I've bought stuff off eBay before, but never Amazon. Am I buying from Amazon (store) or an individual?

EDIT: OMG. I've made a huge mistake Watch from 1:50 -2:00.

I've actually waxed my car atleast 3-4 times before the end of last year. Got my car painted (Pearl White) in summer of 2011.

EDIT 2: What is the difference: 7, 20 and 21

EDIT 3: Please note I have a Pearl White car.

EDIT 4: Haha sorry bud. I just realized how frustrating it must be trying to explain it someone inexperienced like me. I thank you for your patience.

Interesting, I'll have to give the Mother's QD and clay bar a shot then. This seems like it?.

Thanks! I love it so far, definitely want to keep it looking as good as I can.

Are you talking about getting a DA polisher or just washing, cleaning, and sealing? If you're not getting a DA machine and polishing, you can get everything you need to detail your car for about $100 imo.

Get two $5 five gallons n buckets at Home Depot.

Here's a good car wash kit for $60:

TriNova Car Care Kit

If you want to decontaminate the paint ($15):

Mother's Clay Bar Kit

Here's a super-easy to apply sealant that should last 4-6 months, depending on weather and driving habits ($18 with coupon):

Meguiar's Ultimate Fast Finish

And get a bunch of good quality MF towels ($18 for 12):

12 Pack Microfiber Towels

That's plenty to get started and should be enough product to get you through 10 washes/details.

If you get addicted, be sure to check out The Rag Company for some great drying towels, and look into Optimum No Rinse wash to make maintenance washes a lot easier.

All right popeye, get yourself a hand applicator, something like Orange Light Cutting CCS Euro Foam Hand Polish Applicator. Then pick up some Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and some Meguiar's Ultimate Polish. You should only need like 16 oz bottles which is probably still more than you need.

The auto store will have the compound and polish if you pick it up from there. They might carry a hand applicator.

You should also pick up a clay bar kit, something like Mothers California Gold Clay Bar Paint Saving System to get rid of the contaminants before you start rubbing more swirls into your paint while your polishing.

Looks like delaminating clear coat. I highly recommend using McGuire's to polish just about anything with paint on it. Beautiful product that works wonders. Lovely bike it seems!

There is a product (I use meguiar's brand) called compound that you can use to minimize the appearance of swirls if applied by hand, and if done with a dual action polisher will remove them completely. It is also great for removing shallow scratches in clear coat and general clear coat issues (aside from flaking and scratches that are deep). Check out /r/AutoDetailing for more info :)

Only my second time doing it, so I'm no expert.

I bought the Mequires clay kit.

Washed the car thoroughly.

Dried with a chamois.

Started with the roof because it's the hardest part, it had tree sap and would require additional work, and I'm putting a roof rack on soon.

You want to do this in the shade for many reasons, but the biggest reason is you want the panels cool so the spray solution stays on the panel longer. It's a lubricant of sorts so the clay slides easier.

Work the clay over the entire panel, spraying more solution as needed. I recommend doing small sections at a time.

Periodically wipe the section down with the supplied microfiber cloth and inspect your work. You should feel an obvious difference between a clayed area and an untouched area.

Once you've completed the job, apply wax so the paint is protected. I have always used carnauba paste waxes so I stuck with Meguiar's Gold Class. Paste is more difficult to apply but I feel I get better application than liquid.

I also mask off the edges of the plastic and trim because wax is a PITA to remove from them. And I can be a little sloppy with the application.

I'll try and get some before and after close-up pictures when I do another panel.

i think those scratches will come out. they dont seem so bad. you can confirm this by running your nail around them and seeing if it catches your fingernail. youll be better off if they dont really catch.

i think i would go with this car kit from meguiars

as well as ultimate compound

and some polish

i would then wash the car, clay the car, scratchx the scratches, plastx the headlights, compound the car, polish the car, then wax the car.

that will definitely do you. if you have more money, check out a bunch of the sidebar lists for more stuff. maximus's pretty much has it all.

edit: and maybe a couple of these mf applicators. i think they are easier to use and spread the product and work it in really well.

DA is a electronically operated polisher

Some people call them "MOPS" or "Machine operated polishing system"

Harbor Freight sometimes has them on sale for ~$50, or you can use a 20% super coupon.

a Medium cut cleaner is typically a liquid compound that has a lightly abrasive solid material in it, its like liquid sand paper, medium cut is typically close to about a 3000 grit sand paper.

if you feel brave you could wet sand in stead, even this has very little risk, use 2000 grit sandpaper, spray a soapy water over the paint and start sanding till you get a uniform solid matte color, then you would ned a fine or extra fine clearcoat safe rubbing compound, turtle wax is perfectly fine for this this will restore the shine that gets taken away by the 2000 grit sandpaper. You can polish by hand with a microfiber or a waxing pad, but its super slow and boring work, the aforementioned DA makes it 1000x easer.

DO NOT USE A MAGIC ERASER

Get yourself a clay bar kit, you can get them at pretty much any auto parts store. My favorite is this Meguiars one. It's designed specifically for things like this and will clearly and safely remove the contamination.

I'm honestly a little shocked a shop would give you the car back like that. When I was detailing for a living, there were very few cars I detailed that I couldn't get all the water spots off of, but even those never looked as bad as that when I was done. I hope you didn't have to pay much for that.


Having said that, [Meguiar's Ultimate Compound] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM/) is what I would use. It's probably the most newbie friendly cutting compound that I've used, but there is still the chance of burning through the paint with it. I would probably go to another detail shop and see what they could do.

Brand new to auto detailing. I'm a little overwhelmed, but I think I'm ready to start.

My plan is to wash, decon, wash, clay, and finally seal.

• Wash - Meguiar's G7101FFP Gold Class Car Wash - 1 gallon
  
  
• Decon - CarPro Iron X Lemon Scent - 500ml
  
  
• Wash again
  
  
• Clay - Meguiar's G10240 Smooth Surface XL Clay Kit, 240 grams
  
  
• Seal - Jescar Power Lock Polymer Paint Sealant 16 oz
  
  I've decided to not get into polishing right now. I do have some scratches and blemishes that I'm trying to ignore for now. Can I address these down the road or will I be making a mistake by sealing before polishing? I know of a good polisher, there are just so many choices for cutting/polishing solutions and pads that I want to avoid polishing for now.
  
  Please tell me where I'm wrong/what I can do to improve.
  
  Thanks!

i used this on recommendation from some people over at tdpri. i absolutely love the way it feels, and i put it on all of my satin-necked guitars. it's actually nicer than regular poly, IMO. here are some pics i took just now. (not the greatest, apologies.)

Whistles That is one NICE looking hood, you almost have me drooling on what the truck could look like. Ok so!

1st: Nice two bucket cleaning

2nd: Clay the car. was thinking of ordering this. From what I picked up from that Porsche 912 video in the sub and from the sidebar, I spray the clay lubricant on, then with little to no pressure wipe back and forth with the clay in a 18"x18" area. Does that sound right?

3rd: Acquire rubbing compound and hopefully a DA polisher. (By the way if getting a DA polisher isn't possible, is this still attainable by hand?)

4: Nice coat of wax

How does that sound?

I have only used plasti-dip with a spray can. So did you use a clear can (like this? https://www.amazon.com/Performix-12219-Plasti-Dip-Clear/dp/B00I9SK8WK/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1500577977&sr=8-7&keywords=plasti-dip) and dip the entire ball bearing all the way down to the peg?

The GIF looks great though, looks like it holds really well.

If anyone has lots of scratches/defects in their paint, here are a couple steps that really make a huge difference for a total of ~$25:

• Wash car with Meguiar's Gold Car Wash ($7)
  
• Apply Meguiar's Ultimate Compound ($14) which will clean and polish your paint job and remove scratches/oxidation.
  
• Wax paint with Turtle Wax ($6) to get a clean shine and protection against the elements
  
• Buy some Mother's Back-to-Black Plastic & Trim Restorer ($8) and use to restore plastic trim to something closer to its original condition.

I've gotta say, that's less than encouraging. The only folks I know that regularly use both a rotary and 3M products are body shops or car dealers. And they are not generally known for being great detailers. 3M products actually kind of suck compared to more modern options.

As someone else mentioned, the Meguiar's M105 and M205 would both be good products (M105 is a first-step, more abrasive polish, M205 a finishing polish to take out any marring left by M105). You can get 8oz bottles on Amazon for about $10/ea. They're easier to work with, dust SIGNIFICANTLY less, and work better than the 3M products. Plus, you can get them in 8oz bottles vs. 32oz bottles.

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B001O7PNW8/

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B003LMJP4Q/

I've posted my list before:

Car Wash Shampoo: Chemical Guys Maxi Suds II Amazon link

Quick Detailer: Chemical Guys High Gloss Spray Sealant & Quick Detailer Amazon Link

Wax/Sealant (every 6 months): Blackfire Pro Paint Protection (previously Blackfire Wet Diamond All Paint Protection) Amazon Link

Clay Bar (every 12 months): Simoniz S57 Perfect Finish Detailing Clay Amazon Link

Clear Plastics (head/tail lights): Plexus Plastic Cleaner & Protectant Amazon Link

Plastic/Vinyl/Rubber/Leather: 303 Aerospace Protectant Amazon Link

Door/Trunk/Frunk Seals: 303 (above) or Nextzett Gummi Pflege Rubber Conditioner Amazon Link

Glass: Stoner Invisible Glass Amazon Link


Wheels: Griot's Garage Wheel Cleaner Amazon Link

Tires: Aero Low Shine Rubber Care Amazon Link

Go to Amazon and order this (I like Meg's products),

• Harbor Freight DA
  
  
• Meg's Endurance Tire Gel
  
  
• Meg's Ultimate Protectant
  
  
• Meg's Ultimate Liquid Wax
  
  
• Meg's APC
  
  
• Rag Company's Borderless Blonde
  
  
• Rag Company's Waffle Weave
  
  
• Hex Logic White Pad (3)
  
  
• Hex Logic Orange Pad (2)
  
  
• Hex Logic Red Pad (2)
  
  
• M105
  
  
• M205
  
  
• 3M Auto Tape
  
  
• Mother's Wheel Brush
  
  
• ABN Woolies
  
  
• Trim Brush
  
  
• Chem Guys Wash Mitt (2)
  
  
• Mother's Clay Bar Kit
  
  This should run you about $345 for everything and have you setup to take care of your car for a long time. You can find a 20% discount code online for harbor freight to bring the price down $55 for the DA. Go to home depot and buy a couple buckets and you will be good to go.
  
  Edit: To add, I went to Lowes and bought a cheap inline sprayer for my hose and it works fine for foaming up the vehicle, plus it only costs $5.
  
  Edit2: If you are going to downvote me please post why you don't like my recommendation.

My local shop quoted me $300 to fix the paint and $250 to replace the plastic piece. I told them it was a lease and surprisingly they told me I should wait until I am about to turn the car in since more damage will happen. I also have $5K of lease damage insurance so even if I get dinged (ha!) for this, it will be covered by that insurance.

Being a perfectionist, I still wanted to clean things up so I turned to Amazon and bought about $40 worth of supplies:

• ACDelco WA636R Touchup Paint
  
• 1.5mm Touchup Brushes
  
• Novus 2oz Plastic Polish Kit
  
• Novus Polish Mate
  
• Meguiars ScratchX 2.0
  
  I was able to fix the damage to the plastic piece entirely, it looks as good as new. I used an ample amount of Novus 2 and 3. I wasn't expecting Novus to be able to tackle such a big scratch and I was just hoping to get rid of some minor scuffs but I was pleasantly surprised, there is a slight dip in the plastic that is visible if you are about 3 inches away and looking from an extreme angle but I don't even feel a bump anymore.
  
  I also did a few more rounds of Scratch X on the paint scratch and got rid of about 50% of it, I painted the deep chip but I didn't want to risk making it worse so it's still visible from about a foot away. I'm going to practice on another car with some filler and see if I can master the art of filling in deep chips and painting them but for now the metal under the chip is safe from rust.

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Amazon Smile Link: Amazon


|Country|Link|Charity Links|
|:-----------|:------------|:------------|
|USA|smile.amazon.com|EFF|
|Canada|www.amazon.ca||




To help add charity links, please have a look at this thread.

This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.

Meguiar's smooth surface clay kit. First time claying for me so take what I say with several grains of salt haha. Seemed to work pretty well, I did have to really focus on certain spots though (I think I had some sort of adhesive or glue from the dealership days)

This is what my husband uses to get sap off our cars, works beautifully.
MEGUIAR'S Smooth Surface Clay Kit - Safe and Easy Car Claying for Smooth as Glass Finish - G1016 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00063X7KG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3tpqDbY6KDCB6

What do you mean by air blower/sheeting? I have tried an air compressor and the pressure is just too high and breaks up the beads of water bit doesn't really blow them off. But yeah I need to get the buckets and grit guards and the sheepskin wash mitt. I have been using a microfiber sponge thing kind of like this. What kind of cloth do you recommend for applying wax and what brand wax? I have been using some wax that came with the vehicle but I'm just about out and I've been applying it with some microfiber wax applicator towels from O'Reill. Also how often should I wash the wax applicators and how?

I was just at Walmart and picket up some of this, not sure if it's recommended or not. I also got one of these but I'm not really sure of the purpose of it, I just keep hearing people talking about using "clay bar"¿?.

Sorry for the wall of questions, but like I said I'm really new to this and would greatly appreciate of you could answer most of them (if not all)

You can try either bug and tar remover by turtle wax (the only product ID ever buy from them), 90% isopropyl alcohol will work too, as it works great for tree sap and it's safe for clear coats, or if all else fails, you can try a clay bar with some quick detailer as lube. Mothers has a quick detailer and clay bar kit you can buy at any auto parts store like AutoZone/Advanced Auto.

Because of the Prime Day deals I decided to pick up a few different products without knowing too much. I bought: Optimum No Rinse, Mothers Clay Bar System, Microfiber Clothes, Liquid Wax Paint Sealant, and Hybrid Wax.

My quick understanding is that the recommended process is: wash > clay > wash > wax. In terms of these products, does that mean:

ONR wash > Mothers Clay (should I use their lube or just the ONR water?) > ONR wash > Liquid Wax > Hybrid Wax

Just want to make sure I follow the right order so I can start to keep my car in good shape. How often should I clay? What about the sealant and the wax?

Thanks!

Anyone around here got a lot of experience with detailing cars? My Model 3 got covered in thousands of flecks of tree sap a few weeks ago, and while clay barring it over the weekend removed most of it (and finally made my windshield non-dangerous when facing the sun), it didn't quite remove all of the sap. There are still very slight flecks visible in the windshield when looking through it from the inside directly at a light source. It looks like this, but much less pronounced (that photo was taken before the clay bar).

I would love to remove the last of these flecks and bring my windshield back to its pristine transparency from when I got it delivered 2 months ago, but I just don't have a clue what to do. This was the very first time I've ever done clay bar, and I used this product. Maybe a different product would get rid of the last remnants of that sap?

Detailing noob looking to give my truck some TLC. Would a sealant like this be used instead of a wax? I recently washed it, then clay bar'd it. After the clay, I used this buffer to wax it with chem guys butter wet wax

After reading this popular thread my suspisions that the wax was over-priced and over-smelly were confirmed and have been looking for better options.

Thanks for your feedback - I've read the wikki but I like interaction on these kinds of questions

I used this recently on a small clear coat scratch and it worked great. I think your scratch there is deeper however.

Honestly, I would just clean up the cladding and forget about it. It's a really small nick that I doubt anyone would notice walking past the car.

What has happened is that the minerals from the water have etched their way into the paint. The best way to remove that is with a very light polish that will clean the paint and completely even out the surface using a very light abraisive compound. Using a machine polisher is the most effective way of doing the job.

Here's the recommended tools, they aren't too expensive:

Porter Cable 7424xp polishing kit: https://www.autogeek.net/porter-cable-buffer-value-kit.html

Meguiar's m205 (their lightest polish): https://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-205-polish-8oz.html

Clay bar kit: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G1016-Smooth-Surface-Clay/dp/B00063X7KG

Wax, Meguiar's Ultimate Wax, or other kind of sealant (perhaps Chemical Guy's Jet Seal). And a decent set of microfiber towels.

Wash the car, then use the clay bar to pick up the rest of the contaminants sticking to the paint. Then use the Porter Cable DA polisher. Depending on what condition the paint is determines which pad you need. The finishing pad might be enough to handle light contaminants, but if you need to step up to the cutting pad it is safe to do so. Same for the polishing compound, if m205 isn't enough, then step up the aggressiveness to Meguiar's Ultimate Compound, which is more abraisive. Be aware, after the pad is wet and saturated with polish it won't do any more work, and you'll have to take time to clean the pad with a detergent and water, so its advisable to get a stack of Lake Country green pads for doing a large job.

Here's the polishing tutorial by Mike Phillips: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUHRnHsSXZU

I'm not sure what other people use but 3M Automotive Rubbing Compound can help sometimes. I would recommend trying it out on something cheaper first but it's worth a shot.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-03900-Rubbing-Compound-oz/dp/B000AR7KVA?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

Ever tried a clay bar? Takes a little elbow grease but works like a charm and won't damage your paint. I usually spot wax over any spot I clay bar though, just for the extra protection.
Mothers 07240 California Gold Clay Bar System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002U2V1Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uQxKDbQHE12KR

How do I get the paint on the right side of this picture looking like the left?

https://imgur.com/tL3kCaW

I bought the car used, neglected and abused. I've patched up the mechanical bits and I want to get my paint looking nicer, and hopefully uniform. My issue is that on certain parts of the vehicle the paint doesn't have much depth to it, but if I look on the inside of the doors, the paint is a deep beautiful color.

Would this be a good kit for it?

Mother's Clay Bar + Meguiar's Compound, Polish, and Wax

I'll look at the product tomorrow morning and post a link to it or something. I have used it several times on my car and it's done an amazing job of just clearing small scratches away. As long as it's not a deep scratch it usually covers it up really well. I do know what I'm talking about, like I've said I've used it a few times and have had good results.

Edit: decided to just go ahead and Google it real quick. Here's a link to the product. Look at the comments, in some people post pictures. Don't have to get all rude before you even attempt to look for anything.

I used Griots clay and used Griots Speed Shine as clay lube.

Meguiars makes a great clay kit though that you can find at any autoparts store.

I should mention that I did also polish the car earlier this summer. So, it has had some extra care.

In the automotive world, scratch removers can get rid of scratches such as these very well. My favorite is the Meguiar brand, and I have a feeling it might work for these cases as well

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10307-Scratch-X-2-0/dp/B0002UNON8/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM

​

i have good luck with that stuff - wallyworld has it as well as every auto parts place

Thanks! I started off with Mother's California Gold clay bar and waxed with Meguiers Ultimate Liquid Wax.

Honestly I'm not sure when the scratches came out. I didn't notice them after I used the clay bar, but I didn't think to actually look for them. Definitely not visible after the wax, though!

Yea I'm being serious haha. Car cleaning clay seems like it works similarly in picking up contaminants without leaving a residue. Something like this. There are videos on YouTube showing how it works. It's damn simple and effective. You just wipe the surface with the clay and the clay picks up the bits. It can be reused a bunch just by kneading it. I think one bar is good for like 20 cars, so a ton of records. I'd probably try it with a less loved record first though to see what happens but I suspect nothing bad would.

Best exhaust polish is P21s. You can get it for cheap in Amazon. Very good stuff. P21S 15300P Polishing Soap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LOLHHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hzNMxbPJ1N3T7

Noob detailer. Please help to check my rinseless wash process for mistakes and/or advise on existing paint damage.

Started following this sub when I got a nice enough car to care for. It's a Mazda with soul red paint though and seems like every little thing is super visible and the clear coat scuffs when you look at it wrong. I street park in Brooklyn, dust, leaves, pollen, bird bombs and all, every day. Was recommended to adopt ONR rinseless 2 bucket method, researched and tried to follow to the best of my ability.

First, the list of equipment I obtained thus far:

• 2x buckets + grit guards
  
• ONR concentrate (1 Gal. bottle)
  
• Big Red Sponge
  
• Mother's 07240 Calif. gold clay bar + instant detailer bottle kit
  
• Opti-Seal (20239) 8oz. bottle with applicator sponge
  
• Costco MF towels
  
• Aliexpress stuff: few MF sponges, couple of high gsm/edgeless mf towels to try out.
  
  Below is the workflow I had going today, so much new stuff to use and new methods, I did not feel in the least bit confident that I did it right. Asking for folks here to review it and point out any mistakes I have made along the way as well as tips to optimize the process for the future:
  
  I went out to the car with two buckets, each with grit guards, one with 256:1 ONR solution, the other just warm water for rinsing. I started applying ONR solution in straight line motions with BRS one panel at a time starting with the roof>rear window/trunk gate>windshield>hood>front fenders>rear fenders>rear doors>front doors. I do not aim to detail interior or wheels much tbh, but i did dedicate about 6 costco towels to wheel duty by cleaning up the nooks and crannies of the wheels and wheel wells, rinsing them in rinse bucket and never dipping them back into the ONR bucket after first use. Following that, I cleaned and refilled rinse bucket and went back to repeat the panels. Why? Well, the car was very dirty with BRS quickly becoming black with dirt and me switching to costco MF towels to make another two passes over each panel, discarding towels that get visibly dirty on all quarters into laundry pile. I tried folding dirty halves/quarters away and using the Ammo NYC sweep and rotate style to minimize contaminants dragging across paint. Eventually, I felt ready to move onto claying because costco towels and BRS were no longer looking dirty as I passed them across.
  
  Here is where my confidence and excitement of a new auto detailing convert took a big hit. First of all, I had a superficial but long scratch across the right side which I expected to be possible to mask down with claying>using opti seal, since I could not actually feel it with my fingers. That didn't work at all, although I could tell by doing the ziploc bag drag test that the clayed areas were much smoother than the untreated ones. I used Mother's detailer spray bottle to lubricate, half panel at a time, then slide the pancake shaped clay sideways with no inward pressure until i stopped feeling drag resistance. I added lubricant if I felt clay stop on dry areas.
  
  I wanted to change pace after failing with masking the scratch, so I started on the inside of the windshield. I made a 10:1 ONR solution in a spray bottle, sprayed it direct onto a high gsm fluffy mf towel from aliexpress and started wiping away at the inside. I then used the flat looking towel (also from aliexpress) to wipe down streaking. I was pretty happy with the results, but unsure if I did something wrong or missed a step. Still, I moved on.
  
  I then wiped the entire exterior with a clean towel and soaked up the Opti seal applicator, proceeding to apply the stuff one panel at a time and following up with another clean mf towel to wipe off the excess wherever i saw streaking (which was almost everywhere as it was my first time and I wanted to lay a generous protective coating). I got rid of streaking easily, but....
  
  The result was clean, silky smooth paint, but upon closer inspection, it was covered in etchings from leaves, bird bombs and whatnot. The ONR>instant detailer>clay>opti-seal did not remove it. I did not apply pressure onto paint in affected areas during any of the above procedures, as I was afraid of damaging clear coat even further. Did I need to apply more inward force and scrub down the etched areas once it was cleaned from contaminants? Or the only solution to these spots now is to polish? Here is a picture of one of many etchings. some others are bigger in size, some area smaller, one is shaped like an outline of a small leaf -( . The hood also has some tiny black dots that seem to have a white halo of discolored paint around them ~1mm wide.
  
  
• scratch close up (https://i.imgur.com/glgivGd.jpg?1) (taken with 1:1 macro lens, so looks rather thick, it really isn't)
  
• Bird bomb #1 (https://i.imgur.com/wlK9j7J.jpg?1)
  
• Bird bomb #2 (https://i.imgur.com/FsUQBm4.jpg)
  
• Bird bomb #3 (https://i.imgur.com/vE5j9IM.jpg?1)
  
• Leaf etching (https://i.imgur.com/wIm1I2v.jpg?1)
  
• black dot with white 'halo' discoloration (https://i.imgur.com/oj9Tili.jpg?1)
  
  What would be recommendations for me at this point, and what ballpark cost to fix if I am not skilled/dedicated enough to get into polishing myself if that's the route I have to take? I did look over the field guide link for paint damage in the sub wiki section, says etching removal can require up to polishing depending on severity, but I couldn't tell what severity etching I got going tbh.
  
  Finally, are there any parts of this process that were done wrong or could be done better? Are the instant detailer spray and 10:1 ONR spray different in what they can do, or do they more or less perform same function to lubricate and suspend contaminants on the clear coat? Do I need to somehow strip opti-seal layer every few months to re-clay and re-seal, or just ONR on top and instant detailer spray>spot clay>reapply opti-seal in trouble spots from here on out?

Gritty toothpaste works best or some rubbing compound like this
https://www.amazon.com/3M-03900-Rubbing-Compound-oz/dp/B000AR7KVA/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1525981048&sr=1-8&keywords=3m+rubbing

Try scratchX 2.0! I found this in another thread for getting scratches out of old 3DS's. I actually used it on my top screen and I'm incredibly happy with the results. Two major gashes and a lot of microscratches from stupidly using a CD cleaner on it effectively gone.

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10307-ScratchX-2-0-oz/dp/B0002UNON8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425917884&sr=8-1&keywords=scratchx+2.0

Well I've just started getting together my own kit and felt I HAD to get these:

1. Meguiar's Clay bars and quik detail spray
   
   
2. Butt-load of microfiber towels
   
   
3. Waffle-weave drying towel
   
   
4. Grit-guards
   
   
5. Iron X wheel cleaner
   
   
6. Industrial Spray bottles
   
   
7. Meguiar's Gold Class car wash soap
   
   
8. Meguiar's Gold Class Wax
   
   
9. Purple Power
   
   
10. Proper wash mitt
    
    I still feel like there are atleast ten other products that I NEED!
    
    -Pressure Washer
    
    -Foam Cannon
    
    -Detailing brushes
    
    -Sealants/Compounds combined with a proper rotor drill
    
    -ETC
    
    

What product do you recommend for shining a chrome exhaust tip? I bought this : P21S 15300P Polishing Soap. This was recommended to use with a wool 0000 but i feel like I'm gonna scratch the tip (Giggity). Is this setup ok to use? Any recommended product beside this and how to apply it.

Pics will help.

I have had a lot of success with this product: http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G-10307-G10307-ScratchX/dp/B0002UNON8

If you live in North America you can find it at any auto store.

PM me for more info.

1.) Washed the entire car using a large bucket of water and Meguiar's Gold Class Wash Shampoo with a large grout sponge.

2.) Rinsed the car with clean water from a hose and spray nozzle.

3.) Dried the car using The Supreme Guzzler Waffle Weave by Cobra

4.) Clayed the car using Meguiar's Smooth Surface Clay Kit

5.) Buffed the car with a microfiber towel as I went over it with the clay.

6.) Waxed the car using a dual action polisher and Meguiar's NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0

7.) Buffed again with a microfiber towel as I went over each panel.

I'm planning on getting this clay kit to get some surface rust spots off of my car. Does the Quik Detailer work as a wax/sealant or is it just for lubrication while claying? If it's just for lube what wax/sealant/applicators would you guys recommend? I'm not looking to spend a lot. Thanks!

Try this stuff:

Chemical Guys CLY_KIT_2 Medium Duty Clay Bar and Luber Synthetic Lubricant Kit (16 oz) (2 Items) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A8MZ7EY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3sr0BbTSP3QB6

I’ve used a variation of it for overspray removal on vehicle finishes.

Good luck to you! 👍🏻

The actual tool I used was Porter Cable's DA Polisher


With that I did:

• Simple microfiber mitt wash
  
• Microfiber towel dry
  
• Full body clay bar using this kit
  
  
• All-in-one wax & polish with this, applying with these.
  
  If you go this route, you'll also need a [hook&loop attachment]
  (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BQVF8J0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) for the polisher. I did a lot of research before landing on what would get me good results with very minimal time. I did the whole thing in about 4 hours, after not having done anything but a normal wash for 3.5 years. about 9 months later, I'm ready for (need) another detailing.

You'd be surprised, I really didn't use a wide variety, and what I used didn't cost too much. This was a while ago, and I buy so many random cleaning products I don't even remember what all of it was exactly, but:
Wax;
Claybar.
Really nothing particularly fancy you couldn't pick up at target. That said, I did spend a long time claybarring and waxing. Pretty much went over the entire car twice.

Avoid ammonia based products, like Windex or other home glass cleaners. They contain chemicals that can possibly damage plastics or make them cloudy. Soapy water is the safest and most effective cleaning solution. Air dry or use a non scratching microfiber towel.

If soap and water is not getting it clean enough, Novus Plastic Clean & Shine. $5 NOVUS PC-10 Plastic Clean & Shine - 8 oz.

>Gently cleans all plastics without scratching. Leaves a lustrous shine that resists fogging, repels dust, and eliminates static.
>
>Resists finger marking
>
>Contains no abrasives or harsh chemicals
>
>Leaves a smooth, clean, greaseless shine
>
>If the surface is extremely dirty, apply NOVUS No. 1 liberally and wipe using long, sweeping strokes. Do not use pressure at this time or large dirt particles may scratch the plastic.
>
>Re-apply NOVUS No. 1. Polish using short, circular strokes with a clean portion of the cloth.
>
>When surface is thoroughly clean and uniformly covered, buff to a slippery glaze with a clean portion of the cloth. Surfaces buffed to a high glaze are more resistant to dust and future scratching.
>
>Reapply NOVUS No. 1 regularly to maintain the antistatic, smudge and scratch resistant properties.

Novus #2 for scratches.

I replaced the junky ancient thermal compound on a prebuilt, and the temperatures were a little better. The thermal compound was dried out anyway. My 6970 ran much hotter with brake lube (nearly 95C vs 60C during gaming) than with the Noctua NT-H1 I have on it now and I think it was destroying the pcb. The compound was almost clear when I put it on and greenish when I took it off.

I would recommend it as a cheap fix for cpus, but not for gpus.

I used NAPA Sil Glyde, and since it is meant for brakes it doesn't liquify at high temperatures. It's really cheap too, so it might be good for a repair shop.

https://www.amazon.com/Napa-7651346-Silicone-Lubricating-Compound/dp/B0054DWS1W

really? I don't need to have it repainted or anything? You're 100% sure clay bar will work? I need to find out what that is. And are you talking about something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-07240-California-Gold-System/dp/B0002U2V1Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478497153&sr=8-1&keywords=clay+bar+car

Yes, it's most likely made of a plastic that attracts dust. I used to have a PC case where the window did the same thing. Got this spray (linked below) applied a little bit every 6 months or so, and never saw the dust again.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UD0GFE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks. Like this one? It's a very shallow scratch
https://smile.amazon.com/Carfidant-Scratch-Swirl-Remover-Scratches/dp/B07HNHC828/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=scratch+removal+for+cars&qid=1564033636&s=gateway&sprefix=scratch+rem&sr=8-3

Something like this? If so that would be able to remove the other paint around the car from two other dings the car got well before my ownership. I was planning to polish the whole thing eventually as well

I like sil glyde https://www.amazon.com/Napa-7651346-Silicone-Lubricating-Compound/dp/B0054DWS1W

It wont damage the rubber boots like someothers such as permatex purple w/ceramic in it.

Hopefully that's just plastic from the scrapper. You can use Magic Eraser as already mentioned, or you could try with some cutting compound like this: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17220-Ultimate-Compound-fluid_ounces/dp/B06W5HCZ9M

If you don't have a buffing tool, but do have a power drill, you can get buffing pads like these: https://www.amazon.com/TCP-Global-Buffing-Polishing-Backing/dp/B0021KZFCA/

Yes, I can attest to Meguiers ultimate solution. It works wonders on your clearcoat after a rough winter. My paint is now baby-ass smooth.

Link:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001O7PNNM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1426609971&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+ultimate&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

So after writing all of this, I realized scratches seem to be your main concern, not overall paint correction. I'll leave all this info here just in case though.

For the scratches specifically, grab the basic Dr. Colorchip kit, and you won't need to worry about polishing! Otherwise doing it by hand is going to be way too much work.


If your budget is $300 you can easily afford an entire budget kit, all the way up to a DA poilsher! This is if you avoid the Meguiar's starter pack, of course.

 

Washing and claying:

1. Optimum No Rinse ($20)
   
   
2. Nanoskin Autoscrub sponge ($12)
   
   
3. 2 Home Depot Buckets ($10)
   
   
4. 2 grit guards ($20)
   
   
5. The Rag Company starter kit ($30)
   
    
   
   Polishing:
   
   
6. Harbor Freight DA Polisher ($50 with coupon)
   
   
7. 3 orange, 3 black 5.5 inch pads ($24)
   
   
8. Meguiar's M205 ($12)
   
   
9. Griot's Garage BOSS FCC ($20)
   
   
10. Isopropyl alcohol ($5)
    
     
    
    Total: $203
    
    And that's assuming you start from absolutely nothing!

This is correct. I'd start with Clay like this though:

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G1016-Smooth-Surface-Clay/dp/B00063X7KG

You can also find it at local auto parts stores. It will help remove any above-surface damage, and will do a good job of showing you what you're working with.

I do this once every 2 weeks. It's super simple, get the sponge wet, squeeze out all the water, rub it in the stuff, then use on the pipes. Takes me 5 minutes. Then wipe off residue water.

this stuff works amazing:

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10307-ScratchX-2-0-oz/dp/B0002UNON8

edit: you should be able to find it at your local auto parts store.

This stuff is amazing: http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10307-ScratchX-2-0-oz/dp/B0002UNON8

Clay bar it, go to walmart or your auto store and get this then get a decent pack of microfiber towels and a good wax. (Be prepared to spend an entire day detailing if you go this route)

The easiest answer is to avoid spots by hand-drying glassware after washing and thoroughly rinsing them.

For a quick shine before setting the table, a barely/partially damp lint-free cloth should work. Something similar to a car chamois/shammy, perhaps.

If, like me, you have awful hard water leaving heavy deposits on your glassware, it's a bit more involved. I've used a clay-bar kit (mostly out of curiosity) with great results; nothing short of that seems to work, however.

It says it "Fills and hides scratches, swirl marks and spiderwebbing" meaning once the polish evaporates (from sun exposure eventually) the swirls will re-appear, it doesn't seem to be a permanent cure.

I.e. to REMOVE the swirls you will need to use an abrasive enough compound to remove enough clear coat to get to the base of the swirls. For super-light swirls Meguiars Ultimate Compound shouldwork, even by hand, but if they are significant swirls, use Meguiars swirl remover with a polisher and light pad.

I'm not expert in the physics of paint and materials, but the Mothers bars wouldn't have moved very much without much force, and shearing against the dry paint.

I'd suggest the mothers kit:

http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-07240-California-Gold-System/dp/B0002U2V1Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397154469&sr=8-1&keywords=mothers+clay+bar

I just followed the instructions and took my time. It went well. I've done 3 cars since purchasing. Still have 3/4 life left in the 2nd bar. No more spray way left, but I had another brand's spray wax on hand. Seems to work just as well as the spray contained in the kit. I assume most spray waxes are lubricating enough to let the bar slide over the paint and remove dirt etc...

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM

it’s essentially a micro abrasive compound, which is used to buff out scratches, hazing and whatnot. it needs to be used after wet sanding to get rid of the hazing left behind from the 3000 grit. then you polish after the compound to get an extremely clean, haze-free result. it’s best to use a buffer to apply them but can also be done by simply rubbing with a microfiber pad.

basically you can get all of these products in a simple 3m headlight restoration kit instead of buying a bigger amounts of each separately. if you only need to hit the two spots left from removing your mudguards, i’d suggest just getting a kit instead:

https://www.amazon.com/3M-39008-Headlight-Restoration-System/dp/B001AIZ5HY

If you think they were there at delivery, you could just complain to Tesla to have them fix and hopefully that works. Though they may send it to a body shop.

According to this thread, the paint correction kit is more for chips, not scratches. However, you could try some rubbing compound and a microfiber cloth. If they are as light as they appear, it shouldn't be too hard to take care of.

Here's an example: https://www.amazon.com/3M-03900-Rubbing-Compound-oz/dp/B000AR7KVA

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G1016-Smooth-Surface-Clay/dp/B00063X7KG

Also, you might want to check out this video, it pretty much covers the whole process, using the same products in the Blackfire kit:

https://youtu.be/-YIYfAS9vR4

I've had good success with this stuff when I've gotten paint scuffs. Should be able to get most of it off with that, and depending on how badly you rubbed against it, some touch up paint might be needed.

hey thanks for the advice i took into consideration what you suggested and ended with this stuff,

http://www.ebay.com/itm/170694956256?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

http://www.ebay.com/itm/190381853105?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

and maybe this?

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Ultimate-Polish-16-oz/dp/B004HCOE8Q/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_text_y

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound/dp/B001O7PNNM/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_text_y

It was a long day, but I'll try to get all the steps:

1. Pressure wash rinse
   
2. Foam Cannon with this soap: Meguiar's D11101 Shampoo Plus, 1 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EZICII/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oxzpDb7HHDC15
   
3. Rinse soap with pressure washer
   
4. Foam Cannon a second time
   
5. Hand wash
   
6. Rinse with pressure washer
   
7. Clay bar entire car using this as lubricant for claybar: Meguiar's A3332 Quik Detailer Mist & Wipe https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IQXAE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TzzpDbE2QMHHC
   
8. Pressure wash rinse.
   
9. Mist car if necessary to make whole thing wet again
   
10. Hand dry
    
11. Pull car into garage
    
12. Use this soap for all black components (grill, fog light area, side mirrors, rear near exhaust, louvers): MEGUIAR'S D16001 All Season Dressing - 1 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006SH4NW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xBzpDbQMV3FRF
    
13. Using dual action buffer, apply this to whole car (then wipe off) : Meguiar's G17220 Ultimate Compound, 20 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W5HCZ9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aEzpDbQP8ACGE
    
14. After compound do the same with this: Meguiar's G19220 Ultimate Polish, 20 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X413M7J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DEzpDbMMQPD91
    
15. After the polish do the same with this: Meguiar'S Liquid Wax 16 Oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FVFF8ZK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iFzpDbTP1418C
    
16. Remove carpets and vaccuum
    
17. Shampoo and vaccum footwells and carpets. (I forget what product we used but it wasn't meguiars lol)
    
18. Apply the following to whole car by hand then wipe off: Meguiar's G18309 Ultimate Fast Finish, 8.5 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WP6PXT7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QHzpDbPFJ8HMD
    
19. Polished the exhaust with this: California Custom Purple Metal Polish 12 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MNKM9A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1IzpDbTHWF6B9
    
    
    I feel obligated to say that I'm not associated with Meguiar's at all. I was doing all this with my brother who's a detailing enthusiast and he's a bit of a fan boy.
    
    Also I don't have a ton of details on the rest of the interior because my brother started that before I arrived.
    
    All in all it was about 5 hours, with some time spent on the interior before I arrived we also spent some time fixing up some stuff like mounting the window louvres and making the exhaust hang even in the back.

honestly, buy one of those temporary scratch removers & just buff that in. If that doesn't work, bring the car in for trade late at night/in the rain.

This stuff works wonders: https://www.amazon.com/Carfidant-Scratch-Swirl-Remover-Scratches/dp/B07HNHC828/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1Q2VT96X020LP&keywords=carfidant+scratch+and+swirl+remover&qid=1573010556&sprefix=carfidan%2Caps%2C175&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExVk1WOU5IRzdLS1kwJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTI1NzM1MVFXN1VHNzVYWTU1TSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMDQzNjkzR0YzVk5PQjdSUUIxJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

Its a clay bar. You can lightly drag it across your paint with the help of lubrication and remove surface contaminates like overspray, tar, iron, etc.

Here is a tutorial.

Try this first:
http://amzn.com/B0002UNON8

If that doesn't work try this:
http://amzn.com/B003NS5NK8

Check out these forums for more information on paint care etc...

http://www.autopia.org/

Hello! I bought a new car a little over a month ago and I wanted to do some basic cleaning with it, stuff that can be done maybe a couple times a month, since I never personally did that with my previous car.

Anyways, I live in SoCal so I'm trying to keep water usage to a minimum. This is my current "to-purchase" list that I'd like to buy soon;

ONR

iK Sprayer

Iron X

TRC Creature Edgeless 10pack

Mother's Tire Brush

ABN Wheel Woolies

Stoner's Reach Tool

Already have: Stoner's Invisible Glass, Costco multipack MF towels.

Will I still want to get a clay bar + wax for after washing, or is just washing every so often enough?

You can use the original plasti-dip (bucket, not spray) which was designed to give tools more grip. Literally dip your lever ends in this stuff. Should do the trick and it's kinda cool to have around.

SECTION | CONTENT

--|:--
Title | How to Remove Paint Scuffs On Your Car (Paint Transfer)
Description | How to remove paint scuffs from your car. Learn how to safely remove paint transfer from your car's paintwork without causing any damage to the paint underneath. Foam Abrasive: http://amzn.to/1r4wgDj Dash Camera I use: http://amzn.to/22BezJu WD40: http://amzn.to/1X1Expk Clay Bar: http://amzn.to/1XUcwiN Wax I recommend: http://amzn.to/1XUdviU Compound: http://amzn.to/1TYJpIw Remove Scratches from Wheels: https://youtu.be/9WQiqYlpxoY?list=PLDD611CFB36FC65F2 Top 10 Car Cleaning Mistakes: https:/...
Length | 0:06:05






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I used Meguiar's polish and Compound along with a Chemical guys medium clay bar with lots of wet sanding. Its a tad bit greasy but it turned out nice. Whoever owned it before me must of parked under a tree or something because something ate through a lot of the clear on the top half of the car. I stripped and repainted the hood since that was by far the worst but the rest is factory.

/r/detailing will tell you to use a clay bar. I've had good results using this one from Mother's. There are tons of videos out there that will tell you how to properly use it.

Would this be ok to use? Is there a specific brand you recommend?

Turtle Wax T-415 Premium Grade Rubbing Compound - 18 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NMDFNY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_zSOHDb3BC48SH

> some compound

Are you taking about something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM/ref=smi_www_rco2_go_smi_g2609328962?_encoding=UTF8&%2AVersion%2A=1&%2Aentries%2A=0&ie=UTF8?

Use clay bar http://www.amazon.com/Simoniz-S57-Perfect-Finish-Detailing/dp/B0081OSRQQ/ref=pd_sim_misc_6?ie=UTF8 and water to get the white scratches out. You can ask some repair shop to pop the dent out, they will heat it and push with metal bar from the inside. May not look as good as new, though, but fairly close. If you want it perfect the insurance can get you a new bumper, but it will cost them around $1500 and add an accident to your Carfax, so it wont be clean anymore. And repainted bumper will never be as good as factory paint. For example if a repainted bumper was hit like that the paint would just crack and peel/fall off.

I used Meguiar's cleaner wax about a month ago, after washing and clay baring. Today I just used the quick detailer that came with the clay bar kit, after washing of course!

Meguiar's A1214 Cleaner Wax - Paste - 11 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IQX0E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6SmnzbV4JRVER

Mothers 07240 California Gold Clay Bar System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002U2V1Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WTmnzb8AET2XB

You could also try a few chemical polishes. I did a quick search on this sub and someone polished some caps with 99% isopropyl alcohol, and my Google search found this Novus Plastic Polish that might work (i don't think anyone has used in on keycaps but it should work just as well as alcohol)

Auto clay. It comes in a kit with a lubricant. Spray it on and rub the clay on the window and it takes all of it off. Very cool stuff.cleaned off my car windows that were covered in spots, even after washing and trying several products. Runs about 20 bucks.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W58TRBG/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_api_Hn4IBbQMDTM2E

It looks like whatever spilled oxidized the aluminum. You can find an oxidation remover at any Marine supply store, probably some hardware stores too.

Try something that's made to be used on paint, like Stoner Tarminator, or a clay bar kit before you go to gasoline. Start gentle, use the harsh stuff only as a last resort.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17220-Ultimate-Compound-fluid_ounces/dp/B06W5HCZ9M/?tag=car-scratch-removers-pcr-20#aw-udpv3-customer-reviews_feature_div

I have one in my garage and I know a lot of people use that one as well.

Sweet collection, but maybe give them a little love back?

I go to swap meets here in SoCal and find these [Meguiars Clay Bar Kits] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G1016-Smooth-Surface-Clay/dp/B00063X7KG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464801627&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+clay+bar+kit) all the time. I usually pay $5-$8 depending on the vendor. Right now on Amazon its CHEAP for $13.58. The lowest price since 2011 on Amazon according to CCC. There are two clay bars in each package. I use a nanoskin sponge but have these laying around and buy them any chance I get. They are always brand new and never used. They normally have some sort of return labels taped to them so I am not sure where they come from. I've never asked. You can also look into buying in bulk from [ali express] (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/4pcs-lot-180g-Magic-Car-truck-Clean-Clay-Bar-Auto-Detailing-Cleaner-Car-Washer-Blue-3M/32267681185.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.11.4uwzZl&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_10,searchweb201602_1_10017_10021_507_10022_10020_10009_401_10008_10018_10019_101,searchweb201603_2&btsid=3e5d4cc5-bc83-48b4-96c3-ff72028dd53c) from china.

Clay bar also works without damaging paint: https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-07240-California-Gold-System/dp/B0002U2V1Y/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1487455346&sr=1-4&keywords=clay+bar

So you would recommend This Griot's Garage B110P Boss Fast Correcting Cream, in lieu of the M105? and then follow up with the M205.

​

This is for a personal vehicle as I am just a hobbiest. I looked into their new version of the M105 (called the M110), and its $32 for 32oz, which is a little bit out of my price range, as I doubt I will ever use 32 oz of it.

I use this : http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-M4916-Marine-Oxidation-Remover/dp/B0000AY4YX

https://smile.amazon.com/Mothers-07240-California-Gold-System/dp/B0002U2V1Y

That or a different brand.

Mothers 07240 California Gold Clay Bar System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002U2V1Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AY3oDb2RBHAN3

Mothers 07251 NuLens Headlight Renewal Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GZLMEPM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2Y3oDbMHSKTCV

What do you guys think of Mother's Gold? Specifically this package.

https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-07240-California-Gold-System/dp/B0002U2V1Y

I wax about every three months. You'll be able to feel when you need a new coat. I also claybar every spring

Never clayed car before. Is this ok?

Mothers 07240 California Gold Clay Bar System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002U2V1Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bQmUDbVM3CXDP

Wash, then clay, then wax?

You need to clay bar the paint and then wax/seal it. If you park your car outside, this will need to be done regularly.

https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-07240-California-Gold-System/dp/B0002U2V1Y

https://www.reddit.com/r/AutoDetailing/

Clay bar http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002U2V1Y?pc_redir=1407450846&robot_redir=1

Mothers 07240 California Gold Clay Bar System. Anybody need a car/airplane/battleship detailed?

This'll fix ya right up:

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10307-ScratchX-2-0-oz/dp/B0002UNON8

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G1016-Smooth-Surface-Clay/dp/B00063X7KG?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G1016-Smooth-Surface-Clay/dp/B00063X7KG


https://detailingconnect.com/products/griots-garage-bug-smudge-remover?variant=51995413191&utm_campaign=gs-2018-08-16&utm_source=google&utm_medium=smart_campaign&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIg-utvoPo3QIVDLjACh0PHwIvEAQYAiABEgJCEPD_BwE


Do these products ( Griots big and smudge remover/ McGuire’s Quick detailer) remove Collonite 845 / powerlock

Specifically this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NMDFNY/

And this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00068OL1A/

Meguiar's Ultimate

This + a buffer has worked wonders for me:

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM

If you have enough coat built up, sand with 400, 800, and maybe 1500. Then use a buffing compound with some water and a pad on a ROS sander. If that doesn't add a glossy finish...Idk what will.

Yup. See if you can pick up some Meguiar's Plastx or Ultimate Compound or Ultimate Polish. Depending on the severity of the haze, you may need to start with Ultimate Compound first.

Novus 1 is what I use for the windshield. I am trying 50% hydrogen peroxide / water mix on a tip for bug pre cleaning the next time I get covered. (breaks down the bug proteins supposedly)

http://www.amazon.com/NOVUS-PC-10-Plastic-Clean-Shine/dp/B002UD0GFE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370975895&sr=8-1&keywords=novus+1

https://www.amazon.com/Napa-7651346-Silicone-Lubricating-Compound/dp/B0054DWS1W That stuff

Silicone grease as to not break down the rubber. Officially its this: https://www.amazon.com/Honda-Genuine-Shin-Etsu-Grease/dp/B006Z9TZ9M

This is more for your money: https://www.amazon.com/3M-08946-Clear-Silicone-Paste/dp/B005RNEH5O

Or local napa has https://www.amazon.com/Napa-7651346-Sil-Glyde-Silicone-Lubricating/dp/B0054DWS1W

Napa Sil-glyde

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Lubricant-Multi-Purpose-Sil-Glyde-Lubricates-Prevents-Sticking-On-Rubber-Metal-Wood-Plastic/_/R-BK_7651351_0361142439

http://www.amazon.com/Napa-7651346-Sil-Glyde-Silicone-Lubricating/dp/B0054DWS1W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453322685&sr=8-1&keywords=sil+glyde

It’s very straightforward but time consuming. This is similar to what I used.

Meguiar's G10240 Smooth Surface XL Clay Kit, 240 grams https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W58TRBG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PAFBDbYPFTB2T

they don't look deep and I wouldn't be surprised if scratch x would take em right out (or make them nearly invisible).

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10307-ScratchX-2-0-Scratch/dp/B0002UNON8

For the scuffing try Meguiars scratch fix 2.0. I've had pretty bad scratching that it's removed for me in the past.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002UNON8/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485032368&sr=8-1-fkmr0&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=meguiars+scratch+fix

Novus works good. A little water (distilled if you have it) and a microfiber should work. You can add a drop of dish soap if needed. Just avoid using anything with alcohol or ammonia, paper towels, etc.

That will buff out.

But seriously, it will buff out. It looks like paint transfer.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10307-ScratchX-2--oz/dp/B0002UNON8

A product like this should remove it no problem.

Is this what you're referring to by clay bar?

I'll give the Windex/409 a shot first, since I have that lying around.

Thanks for the advice!

Maybe try using a very light cutting Polish or Compound and buffing it out with a Dual action buffer.

I use this with a micro fiber cloth. Lots of small circles with firm pressure. Take the lid off and set it down on a towel so it doesnt move around.

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10307-ScratchX-2-0-oz/dp/B0002UNON8/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406911488&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=extreme+scratch+remover

Chemical Guys Microfiber Applicators

Griots Garage Microfiber Speed Shine Cloth

Royal Auto Shop & Car wash towels 36 pack

Gummi Pflege Stift

Shurhold Buff Magic Compounding Pad 2 pack

Yacoto Microfiber Chenille Wash Mitt 2 pack

303 Fabric Guard

Invisible Glass 32 Oz - 6 pack

Griots Garage Microfiber and Foam Pad Cleaner

Chemical Guys Foam Cannon and Honeydew cleaner

Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine 32 oz

Mothers Clay Bar Kit

Sonax Wheel Cleaner Full Effect 169 oz

Griots Garage Microfiber Drying Towel

303 Stain Guard

303 Speed Detailer

Detailer's Choice Leather Chamois

Natural Boar Hair Detail Brush Pack

303 Spray Wax

MATCC 5Pcs White Flannelette Polishing Wheel Cone-Shaped Wheel Grinding Head

Chemical Guys Premium Microfiber Applicators

My fault forgot to reply to this.

So this is the final polishing boat wax I used. In addition to this I also used this and this. For the clay bar I used Meguirs. For the tire shine I used this.

No, you should only use Nanoskin Glide, Nanoshock or Bubble Bath. I have tried it myself and had far less marring and marking using Nanoskin Glide with the pads and sponges, and Bubble Bath for the wash mitt. If I used a different brand lubricant or soap I had problems marring similar to what you described.

Bubble Bath:

Amazon

Autogeek


Glide:


Autogeek.net

Amazon

Nano Shock:

Autogeek

Amazon

Those are the best places, in my opinion to start looking. It should be noted that Glide is a concentrate so it dilutes out to around 3.5 quarts of useable product.

Thanks for the advice. I did a test spot where the decal was dark blue and once removed had underlying spider cracks (very small but noticeable). I used 1500 grit with a very slow speed on the DA polisher with light pressure and lots of water. The cracks were gone when I finished (it did not take long). After sanding I used Meguiar's Ultimate Compound with an orange pad rated at 3000 grit. I had a reasonable starting point to polish and wax from there, I believe. The surface looked quite smooth to me. The only spots getting sanded are where the spider cracks are from the deep blue/dark color decals. I have read where I could do a full wet sand starting with 1000 up through 3000 and then you would not be able to tell where the decals started and ended. I am not that good nor do I want to spend that amount of time.

I will post some before and after pictures of each stage. I am going to finish up with Ultimate Polish and Ultimate Wax.

I also have a white BMW and my car has similar spots, but they are orange. From what I read online, they're bits of brake dust that have rusted. So your spots might be brake dust that haven't rusted yet.

In any case, I use a clay bar to get rid of the spots. There are many tutorials and videos on how to use a clay bar, but the gist of it is you lubricate the spot with a spray detailer and then rub the clay over it. It pulls off crap that isn't paint.

You fix this with a clay bar. It removes overspray. I oversprayed two vehicles - oops - and half an hour with a clay bar from McGuire's got it cleanly off. It's about $20. "Totalled", my effing ass.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Smooth-Surface-Clay-Kit/dp/B00063X7KG

Your first mistake was not keeping your car waxed in the first place! If you had done that, water would have been all you would've needed! SHAME! SHAME! SHA-

Okay, I'm done.

It'll polish out easily. A shop should take care of this for $15 with a cordless polisher in the parking lot in a matter of 3 minutes. But, some shops don't work like that because of capitalism and "time is money", in which case you could get that out with a small bottle of polish and an application sponge. I'd suggest this:
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10307-ScratchX-2-0-oz/dp/B0002UNON8/ref=sr_1_11?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1527550086&sr=1-11&keywords=meguiars+polish
and
https://www.amazon.com/SPTA-Finishing-Hand-Applicator-Polishing/dp/B01M0GRIGS/ref=sr_1_7?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1527549955&sr=1-7&keywords=hand+polishing+pad