Is this your first bike?

You should really check out the beginner advice thread and the $200-600 thread in addition to this one. There's a lot of helpful advice in there including SIZING. KNOWING YOUR SIZE IS SUPER IMPORTANT SO KNOW THAT FIRST.

Also, if you're in this price bracket and you don't already have the essential bike accessories:

• A Front Brake and Lever and Cable if you're not sure what sizes you need make a post in the weekly questions thread. Some of the bikes I suggest have one already, but if they don't GET ONE.
  
  
• A Floor Pump
  
  
• A Metric Hex Set
  
  
• A 15mm wrench if your wheels require it (most do)
  
  
• A Lockring Tool 100% essential if you plan to ride fixed
  
  
• Some Grease
  
  
• Good pedals! Clips and straps, bmx straps, or clipless can all benefit greatly from a little extra cash.
  
  
• A helmet
  
  Note there are other options for all of these that could allow you to save money/space/whatever, but you won't go wrong with what I linked. I'd really suggest having these even if it means you go down a price bracket on the actual bike, they'll all come in handy.
  
  

  New Bikes
  

  
  

• An Upgraded Dolan Precursa at £Whateveryouwanttospend is just so customizable and awesome and the pricing is great and really everyone should get this if they can. I'd highly suggest opting for the front brake, miche pistard clincher wheelset (tubular if you're riding track ONLY), and sugino75 crankset options. You can even get direct drives for only £109 extra ( a $500 crankset whaaaat) so that's cool. If you really want to dive headfirst you can get clipless pedals too, but if you don't know what those are definitely make a post in the weekly questions thread.
  
  
• The Specialized Langster at $650 retail is a super solid street and track bike. They go on sale sometimes for less and for $600 or less it's really a no brainer.
  
  
• The Wabi Classic at $750 has been my go to recommendation for a long time. It's made of super high quality steel has excellent customization options, and is all around awesome. The biggest downside is the super relaxed geo. If you want something that rides more like an average road bike check out the Special or Lightning
  
  
• The PoloandBike Williamsburg at £760 is a great option for European riders. The name brand finishing kit and artchetype rims give it that custom bike feel for a good value complete bike. If you swap out the front tire and maybe upgrade the crank this bike can be truly superb.
  
  
• The All-City Big Block at $950 is easily the best looking bike on this list imo, but that aside it's a super ultra double awesome track bike. Really well rounded and could easily be the last fixed gear you buy. One thing to watch out for is the long top tubes that all city loves so much so take a close look at that geo chart.
  
  

  Used Bikes
  

  
  Another great thing about this price bracket is the used market. I daresay it is easy to find outstanding value bikes used in this price range if you know what you're doing. I helped a friend source this for $1100 and we were being choosey! Again, if you need help post in the questions thread or just PM me because I like helping people with this stuff.
  
  
  
  
  
  

There are a lot of really cool camping things! I'll be back to edit this post on my computer with some things that we like / are unique /cool

EDIT - these are things that we use that we love. These things all range in price, so hopefully you can find one or two to fit whatever budget you have.

• Collapsible Coffee Dripper : They can use this to make REAL coffee on the trail. They just have to heat water!
  
• Portable camping grill : This takes a little time to set up, but it's a very compact grill and makes it easy to cook food or even just balance your mess kit
  
• Nonstick camping mess kit : A nonstick kit is much easier to clean than a stainless steel one IMO. this set has a kettle, utensil, and scrubber which is awesome.
  
• Camp Suds : An environmentally safe soap so they can clean their gear but preserve the trail!
  
• Dry sacks : Dry sacks are just what they sound like... waterproof bags that keep your stuff dry. They can also double as a pillow if you stuff clothes in them!
  
• Portable camping stove : This little guy connects to a small fuel canister and gives you a nice little stove. These are great for heating water / soup as they provide a better heat source than a fire you'd build.
  
• Food dehydrator : This is not something they'd take camping, but it can really help them to save money on meals. If they are backpacking, they likely won't want to carry around cans of food and won't be able to carry around ingredients that would go bad. The dehydrator allows them to make their own backpacking meals that they will reconstitute with water.
  
• Pocket bellows : allows you to stoke the fire without having to get your face super close. Also this lets you target a small area.
  
• LED light bulb ; This does require a portable battery but it's really great to have this little guy. We use it in the tent at night or when we're hanging out but need a little light to chop food/etc.
  
• Pocket chain saw : Cut big pieces of wood! It takes some muscle, but it really does work and it's a lot smaller than a hatchet or actual chain saw..
  
• Literally the best backpacking chair : when you're backpacking, you have to carry EVERYTHING with you. So that means that stuff has to be light and small. These chairs are great, because (for chairs) they tick off both of those boxes. They have a back! And they are big enough to actually sit on!
  
  Other general items that are useful: Climbing/heavy duty carabiners (to clip stuff to other stuff. you can even get locking ones); water filters (if you get a Lifestraw, I recommend the water bottle. The actual Lifestraw is an interesting idea, but we've found in practice it's a little awkward); hammocks with nice straps; base layers; battery-operated lights of any kind (especially ones that clip or are hands-free); a set of waterproof cards (to pass the time on a break); nice, wicking socks; hiking poles; a camping knife.
  
  I haven't tried Cairn (the camping sub box) but they always look interesting.
  

I just bought a whole bunch of camping stuff for the bike. Basically, I focused on a two things; Pack size and weight. I'm aiming to fit everything in some hard cases, and I think I have enough space for all of this plus food and clothes for a week quite comfortably.

The thing I realised is that the tent and sleep system will cost the most. The tent you can skimp a little on if you're ok with it wearing out after a few seasons.

So, I was able to save a lot by getting a Kelty tent; they make some great 2-4 man tents that are super portable. The Salida 2 might be the most appropriate for you. I'm able to set up the Salida 4 in about 5 minutes. It's not quite as easy as the "pop-up" tents, but its pretty damn light and packs down into a manageable size. $113 and you'll want the footprint $32

Self inflating mattresses seem to take too much space. So I went for a Therm-a-rest all season mattress. There's a new model coming out I think but the one for $109 seems fine. Yes, expensive but I think it will be worth it - it improves the temperature rating of the bag and will fit inside the sleeping bag I got.

Get a warm sleeping bag. Something like this Big Agnes $179 is good. It will accept the mattress so that you don't fall off it during the night. It will back down tight and unlike a down sleeping bag it will stay dry longer and will perform well for longer. Down is "the best" but unless you need to sleep through sub freezing temps you should be ok. Can always stick one of these underneath $22 to improve things.

This is an awesome stove for $14. Fits on standard camp stove bottles and is very wide and stable. You need to buy the gas at a camping store.

You'll want other stuff:

• Cook set. Lots of single person/2 person cook sets out there that are great on a small stove.
  
• Cutlery and plates. I have a lightweight aluminium plate set and some cutlery for it.
  
• A collapsable bucket thing so you can wash your stuff when you're finished, and also so you can carry water from a water source.
  
• A water filter if you're counting on drinking water from a water source.
  
• A tool kit for your bike.
  
• A first aid kit.
  
• Paper maps of the areas you will ride through.
  
• LED rechargeable lanterns/lights etc so you can find stuff in the dark.
  
• A multitool, a nice big camping/hunting knife to cut stuff with when you're bored, a camping axe and a shovel so you can bury your excrement if needed.
  
• Some way to start a fire if needed, matches, lighter, etc.
  
• Inflatable pillow.
  
• This seems to work great for coffee.
  
• dry bags/sacks to store stuff in.
  
• Something to store food in.
  
  And you'll want some motorcycle specific luggage that fits to your bike. I'm a fan of Kriega system bags for sports bikes as you can strap a whole bunch of the bags together to store everythign you need nicely. A bit expensive but when you start looking at the options you might find it's hard to fit everything you want on the bike without investing in some good luggage for the bike.
  
  People may disagree with some of the things I've said, thats cool. I just went through all of this myself so figured it might help. YMMV etc.

I have a good eye :)

Apologies for the wall of text, but I tend to ramble on topics that I'm passionate about, hopefully some of the ramble below will help.

Which Inflatable pad do you have, I'm guessing you're a side or stomach sleeper like myself?

I have the Klymit kings static V inflatable pad, I like that it packs really small and it's very light weight, but it's not entirely comfortable for side sleeping or stomach sleeping. I did once camp with my tent on sand and this was comfortable, but on regular dirt it's not.

I then tried the REI camp bed 3.5 self inflating pad. It's a self inflating pad which is a hybrid between a foam and an inflatable. At 3.5" thick, it's incredibly comfortable for side & stomach sleeping, but the drawback is weight (~5lbs) and it does not pack down small, I have to strap it to the outside of my pack.

If you are a similar sleeper like myself, you may want to check out hammock camping. I picked up an ENO double nest for just relaxing around camp or in the back yard at home and found it to be the most comfortable naps I've taken outdoors. While I can't sleep on my stomach, side sleeping is very comfortable and I actually fall asleep on my back which is unheard of. I'm not saying to run out and buy a full hammock camping set up, but maybe at the next REI garage sale, see if there is a really cheap ENO double nest and straps and give it a try in the back yard, you may want to convert afterwards :)


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Headlamps? As in more than one? + a lantern? If I may suggest an alternative / weight savings..... This year I switched over to using a Olight S1 Mini baton because I always hike with a hat and the double clip allows it to slide right on the brim. It's also incredibly light weight and has several light levels. The back cap is also magnetic, so when tent camping, it sticks to the tent poles, for hammock camping I just hang it on the ridge line by the clip. The lowest level is 5 lumens I believe, which is dim but more than enough to see your foot placement on the trail at night. It also has the strobe setting which can come in handy if you find yourself in trouble to disorient an individual or an animal. (your post above mentions the fear of being a solo hiking woman, so this would be a good tool in conjunction with a decent knife). While it doesn't have a red filter, there are tons of youtube videos on how to make your own red filter cap for night vision savings.


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A Camelbak is always a must have for me, I get dehydrated quickly, so I carry the 3L version. I also carry a smart water bottle on the exterior side pocket of my atmos. Reason being is they are significantly lighter than a nalgene or other plastic bottles on the market and they're very very cheap to replace. Also, you can use this bottle for water enhancers such as Mio, crystal light, or a hydration powder, without risking an issue to your Camalbak. I've found having Mio on a trip is a great mental pick me up when it's hot and I'm tired.


I have not used a life straw, but for any overnight or distance trip, a must have for me is my Sawyer filter and 1 squeeze bag. I went with the Sawyer because it will allow me to refill the giant 3L Camelbak with this adapter without digging out the Camelbak, (see the 4th picture down). The squeeze bag is for dirty water only, so I do not have to worry about dirty water contamination with other items. Lastly, with this adapter I don't have to bring the syringe to clean it, this adapter's threads will fit the smart water bottle, or a coke bottle, and allow me to flush out the filter. While I've yet to have to flush it on a trip, it's a good thing to have for after the trip and cleaning things.

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I used to have a few must have items, but recently I've been weeding them out to save weight. Most of them are comfort items and I am the individual who packs with the mindset of "what if this happens.....", so I tend to pack things I rarely use. I really love having a warm meal, so my Jetboil is usually a staple. Since it is a gas burning stove, I could (in a survival situation) use it to boil water or start a fire to keep warm. However, foods can be re-hydrated with cold water, it might take longer and not be as delicious, but it saves the weight of the jetboil and I have the sawyer for clean water anyway, and a small bic lighter is a fraction of the weight, so I've done without it on the last few trips.

I've moved on to the mentality of packing items that are multi-purpose, try to cut out any redundancies to save weight. While I am no where near being considered ultralight, I've started incorporating their ideals into my packing to help out. You may want to check out their subreddit.

My buddy Scott is the one I always go to for questions related to backpacking/ hiking, he's been doing it far longer than I have, and seems to always be ahead on the new gear or techniques. He started a blog recently on his findings and tips/suggestions, it may be worth a look: Hack your pack

Hopefully this ramble helps!

Merino wool socks (Darn Tough or Farm to Feet are my go to) and the Noble Outfitters "Cold Front" muck boots. I love these boots, they're incredibly comfortable all year round and I've ridden in them hundreds of times as well. I've heard good things about the "Original Muck Boot Company" muck boots as well and I know they have an insulated variety. Basically, muck boots that neoprene based rather than just lined rubber will be way, way warmer. They have not failed me. Plus, if I'm teaching or out for more than a couple hours, I'll use the stick on toe warmers which really are lifesavers. Big bonus tip: putting on extra socks/etc. and cramming your feet into boots is a bad idea. Insulation works by trapping warm air, so you need some space for it to work. You will be infinitely warmer in one pair of socks that fit well into your boots than in two pairs that are crammed in. Some kids would wear plastic bags or bread bags over their socks, which works great but they don't breathe and once you're feet are sweaty, you're screwed.

For the rest of your body, base layers are fantastic. They come in many varieties, from Walmart dirt cheap to nice merino wool (my personal favorites, but expensive and I only invested after using them for hiking a lot). The cost doesn't matter as much, as the goal is to get sweat away from your skin to keep you toasty, but in general, stay the f*** away from cotton for socks or base layers. The instant it is wet from sweat or something else, it will suck your body heat away and it doesn't dry out. Synthetic or wool is your best bet for anything against your skin. Layers, layers. I wear my base layers (top and bottom), a pair of Kerrits winter breeches (the best I've found, one pair has lasted me two winters so far, too), a fleece athletic top of some kind (love Avalanche gear), a down vest, and then my trusty, rusty Mountain Horse winter jacket. Gloves are weird in a barn -- I've had my best success with a thin water repellent glove with good grip on the fingers and palm that I can stuff into bigger mittens after using my hands (usually complete with hand warmers). Anything thicker and I am taking them off so often to do things in the barn that it doesn't matter if I have gloves on or not, although Heritage makes an "Extreme" winter riding glove that I adore, each pair has lasted me at least three winters of constant use and are impressively mobile for their bulkiness and okay-ish to ride in.

And for when you're back, hot chocolate with whiskey/rum enjoyed in a shower really will warm you right back up. Start the shower just lukewarm or your feet/legs/hands will feel like they're on fire.

Few things. I think that most of the people here pointed out the biggies - rules, regulations, legal necessity stuff, maps, etc. I'm still newish to the city and just got a bike a few months ago. What really really helped me was joining some cycling groups. People are typically very friendly and they know their bike stuff and can help you if you have a flat, etc.

I first joined bicycling groups on www.meetup.com. The only one I've ever rode with was Social Cycling NYC though, really great folks. I also joined the 5 Borough Bike Club (5BBC); I've only been on one ride so far but, again, great people.

There are lots of rides to participate in too. The first Friday of every month, Time's up does a Moonlight Central Park ride. Really cool, I did the last one. There is also one of these for Prospect Park and I hear that one is nice too. Time's up also does a ride called Critical Mass, but I haven't personally went, just heard about it. These are free rides. Some (all? I don't know) of the 5BBC rides are free but there is a yearly membership ($20 and if you join in October, I think, you essentially are buying the 2013 membership and have the rest of 2012 free). However, I'm not sure how much free time you'll have to gallivant around!

Joining an organization like 5BBC or Transportation Alternatives also gets you discounts at bike shops as an FYI. Each organization has a list of participating shops.

Anytime I've ridden in Brooklyn, I've really enjoyed it. There are many more bike lanes than up my way in Queens. Take advantage of that and explore! A ride to Rockaway beach is nice too.

Some gear you might be interested in that I thought was helpful:

26 in one multi tool

On frame pump


Also, I don't know what sort of pedals you have or prefer. However IF you decide to get clips or clipless pedals, some of the bike folks I've met told me a few things. (I have clipless pedals btw) If you've never had clips/clipless pedals, get a pedal that has the the cleat thing on one side and a pedal platform on the other. This way, you don't have to be clipped in if you don't want to be.
I got these.

Also, for the shoes that go with said pedal: I was told for predominantly city riding that you can wear out the cleat on the bottom of the shoe faster if you have the treadless road bike shoe. Also, if you do any walking on hard surfaces with this shoe I guess it wears out quicker. If you buy a mountain bike shoe it has a perimeter of tread that goes around the sole. Keeps the cleat more protected from grinding on the pavement. It will still grind on certain types of ground or flooring though.

Since I already have Amazon open:

This Versus this

I have Pearl Izumi shoes and I really like them.

Well, here's what I've got so far.

In the spring I'm building a super simple cheap cabin. Should cost me under $1500 to get the frame, roof and walls up. Simple 4x4 pole barn like frame with an A frame roof, roughly 24x24. Metal roof with a rain water collection system.

For the walls, I'll dig a footer, put in a french drainage system(I think that's the right term), and build a short foundation over that and build an 18-24" thick cob wall around that.

An earthern clay floor sealed with linseed oil.

Inside I'll have a woodstove surrounded by cob (a cob oven at this point) with a second stove on top of it also surrounded by cob to cook in. Picture this but made with woodstoves and cobbed around.

The idea is the stove heats up the cob and that acts like a giant thermal battery/radiator.

The idea for the cabin is a 20x20 interior design with 10' ceilings and extremely space efficient usage. Everything built into the walls. Every inch of wall space used for shelving, bunk bed, storage, cabinets, counter top etc. Even the shower/bathroom built into the wall cabinet style.

I've been studying high efficiency, no-till, intensive gardening methods this year. The first step is compost, compost, compost and also vermiposting. All organic waste matter produced must be composted, vermiposted or burned and used in the garden eventually.

Wood ashes are 25% lime(calcium) by weight so it's good to recycle that back into your garden as well.

Table scraps, cardboard and so on get fed to worms and become worm castings (worm poop) which are extremely beneficial to gardens. Also quite valuable as well. The worms themselves sell for up to $30/lb as well.

Anything else gets composted, including human waste. Termed "Humanure".

Long story short, your bathroom is this. After using you cover/bury with sawdust or similar material. Once it's full it gets empty into the center of a compost bin and covered/buried with something like straw, old hay, more sawdust, weeds, shredded leaves etc. Once the bin is full (which takes forever) you build a new one and let the old one age for a long time to allow any potential pathogens time to die (they don't live forever).

For the long story read the Humanure Handbook or snag it off bittorrent.

Instead of buying expensive, synthetic fertilizers for your garden/farm, recycle your own home made fertilizers instead of wasting it.

Read this, this, and this.

By producing your own compost, fertilizer and worm castings you have no need to buy fertilizers, soil amendments or pesticides.

To avoid having your crops ruined by pests you don't plan a ton of one thing. You plant a large variety and rotate them each year. There's also companion planting to help them grow bigger, better, faster, healthier and to protect them from pests. Certain plants will either draw away pests or attract beneficial insects that eat pests.

The whole point of this is to grow large amounts of high quality food in a small space without a ton of work or money. All you need are some heirloom seeds and then you can propagate them on your own after that.

So after my cabin is built my next step will be to extend the walls out to the south by about 20 feet and then build a very simple frame over top of that and cover with heavy duty long lasting greenhouse roofing panels.

It'll be direct connected to the cabin and I'll be able to keep it warm in the winter via the woodstove + heat from the sun. In there I'll expand my worm farming and grow some year round vegetable and herb crops and include a small scale (under 2000 gallon) aquaponics system.

Aquaponics combines hydroponics with fish farming. I can get 300 gallon potable water tanks for $65 each. So I'll set up a series of those in line, remove the tops and connect them in a series so as one gets full to empties into the next one. Then above these have a flat shelf with a long but shallow water tank.

In the top tank I'll produce duckweed.. This stuff can double in mass every 48-72 hours and makes excellent feed for fish (herbivore or omnivore species) as well as chickens, ducks or other animals. Chickens fed a diet including duckweed have shown to have more nutritious eggs.

In the bottom tanks I'll have various aquatic creatures that will be occasionally harvested as a food source. As the animals poop and pee in the tanks, this provides nutrients for the duckweed to grow, providing a circular sustainable cycle. I'll just need to harvest half of the duck weed once every 2-3 days and feed that to the fish and crayfish and supplement that with worms as well as some types of table scraps.

As of now I've narrowed it down to marbled crayfish and Tilapia. I looked at all kinds of animals and looked for quality of meat, ease of reproduction, hardiness and variety of diet. Both critters reproduce like rabbits without needing special water temps or salinity or other bullshit. I also looked at what my local neighborhood produces as well and looked for something unique and different so I could trade what I produce for what they produce.

So by having a self sustaining cycle and producing my own feed for the animals my costs will remain low and I'll save a ton of money on my own food as well as being able to sell or trade in the local economy (neighborhood scale).

Once that is built and running my next step would be to work on a solar system to eventually go off grid in terms of electricity.

I have more info but I need to get ready, going horse back riding today :-)

Like /u/jrm2191 said, Park Tool make some... comprehensive tool sets. Those prices are enough to make me choke, though. Your son's riding a ~$400 bike - I don't know how I would wrap my head around buying an $800 tool set, or even a $300 one.

But the tool sets are a good way to think about what tools you should buy. I'd get a basic tool set, fill in gaps, and upgrade selectively. What I'd do, in no particular order, would look like...

• cheap tool set ($40) (total $40)
  
• torque wrench ($50) (total $90)
  
• chain cleaning tool ($10) (total $100)
  
• cable cutting tool ($35) (total $135)
  
• maybe chain pliers? ($10) (total $145)
  
  At this point I would start thinking about upgrading the tools that your son will use all the time. The thing that stands out for me is hex tools. He might use Torx screws, but he'll definitely use metric hex tools
  
  
• some nice metric hex tools ($15) (total $160)
  
• some torx equivalents ($11) (total $171)
  
  Then probably nice meaty tire levers to make replacing tires and tubes easier
  
  
• tire levers ($9) (total $180)
  
  If you were looking to spend $300 or that range, then you'll notice you're way under that target. Feel free to start adding on some random nice things, like a portable multi-tool, which will pay off if he has an issue while out on a ride.
  
  
• Portable multi-tool ($25) (total $210)
  
  I'm running out of things that aren't "consumable" (like brake cables, housing, etc...), so for my last recommendation, nitrile work gloves! (they'll make cleanup a breeze)
  
  
• work gloves ($20) (total $230)
  
  There are tons of other things you could get (a bike stand, for instance) but at this point I'm getting a bit out of control. and there are tools I assume you have (e.g. a good screwdriver), but at some point I need to stop.
  
  And obviously feel free to mix and match whatever components you can afford/feel comfortable spending that much money on. One thing that might help would be to talk with him about what kind of work he does on his bike. He might be in desperate need of hex tools, but not treating himself to nice hex wrenches. That could be your quick, easy, cheap answer. Or similarly he might be nervously tightening bolts without a torque wrench, even in places that call for very precise amounts of torque. Again, easy answer regarding what to prioritize.
  
  Best of luck
  
  edit: totals didn't add up right, sorry!

In the industry, you have what is referred to as a "naked roof". This makes installing a conventional roofrack tricky, but fear not there are alternatives.

One option is to get "towers" that strap under the door and are cinched tight. These work well and my brother has one for his Mazda Protege.

Once you have the towers on, you can get bars that well exceed the width of the vehicle, making transporting two yaks pretty easy.

Although you have short yaks which means they are fat. One way to make stacking boats easier on a roofrack is get a jbar, so the boat can be positioned vertically. I love my Yakima j-bars myself, but you can get cheaper knockoffs from Amazon.

When shopping for bars, there are three types. Flat (factor bars), square (thule), and round (Yakima/generic). I prefer round myself and they fit a number of common saddles and j-bars.

If you really want to save on money, here is dirt cheap tower and round bar set that I used to use on my Corolla:

http://www.prolineracks.com/proline-cb602-universal-car-roof-rack.html

40 dollars...much cheaper than a name-brand like Yakima and easy to install yourself...but the Yakima versions are much better quality.

For j-bars, you can get a dirt cheap set like this for $25...but honestly these don't fit fat kayaks well (doable though, but not ideal):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003V57NUQ/ref=oh_o00_s00_i01_details

My vote would be for a name-brand j-bar like Yakima:

For even more room you could get folding cradles.

If you call Yakima's sales support, they can give you a ton of useful information.

Definitely get a bib, not shorts. I hate the elastic in shorts, and bibs also don't shift around on you. I am a big fan of Voler and they also have some of their items on sale on their website right now.

You didn't specify which kind of pump you have. If you don't have a floor pump; get one. You will always want to top off your tires before you go out. There is a lot of debate on pumps, but I love my Joe Blow Sport.

Don't get a camelbak. I am in love with my camelbak for hiking, skiing, hunting, etc. but hate it for road cycling. It is uncomfortable in the road cycling position. I'm no expert, but it also seems to generate a lot more drag, which will slow you down. Get bottles instead.

I'm a huge fan of 24 oz Polar Bottle. They are cheap and keep your drinks pretty cold.

I would also recommend a quality energy drink if you are going on long rides (4+ hrs). I love Cytomax Tropical Fruit. Buy super cheap bottles if you are using energy powder, because they are hard to clean and get kinda gross after a while. Before I started using a good energy drink, I would tend to bonk out after 4-ish hours. Switching to an energy drink helped me keep going on longer rides.

If you bought all of these things, you would be just shy of $200. Things I'd consider but don't think are absolutely necessary are: gloves and a good jersey. Also a bike computer, but a lot of people are just using Strava on their phones. You can also buy another bib in case you want to ride multiple days in a row.

Hope this helps!

Edit: Definitely have a portable pump and/or CO2 inflator with you on your rides.

I purchased my electric scooter (first paycheck) at the start of Summer 2018, and before that, was that guy on a kick scooter. The climate for electric scooters on campus went from what I could tell was me and another dude I saw once every month, to now seeing at least 3 every day.

I fear that what was once mild amusement to people now will become hatred when millions are everywhere and half the people scooting around purchased one have no idea what common courtesy is and attempt scootihicular pedestrianslaughter on the sidewalks, souring public opinion. Worrying premonitions aside, I can not say enough about how much I love my scooter to get around. It's the perfect combination of vehicle, where you don't have to worry about storing it like a bike, or if you never gained the magical skills to not die on a longboard/skateboard, a pretty easy to use ride. I use mine everyday and it does a good job. If you can use a longboard/skateboard those are very good options for pretty cheap human propelled transportation that are very popular, although I'll always have a soft spot for the A5 Lux Kick Scooter I used to roll around with. Brakes are neat, yo!

As for which scooter to get, I'm not up with the scooter times, but I use the Segway ES1 I purchased at Sam's Club for $350. Judging by the fact I've never actually seen another one of those out on campus (If you see a dude on one of these, probably wearing flip-flops, feel free to wave hello, say hi, and not hate me, I try to be as courteous as possible to other pedestrians/cyclists!), gonna go out on a limb and say they are no longer for sale at Sam's Club. However what I have seen on campus are the Xiaomi Mi or maybe this go trax thing. Can't speak for those at all, but they sure are popular.

The electric scooter market is pretty cheap, with the prices being low, but with the quality being low as well. There was literally like two options when I got mine, with the one I did get being sold off on clearance, but now with the explosion in this segment, the skies the limit, maybe.

Overall, the utility of an electric scooter is a great value for what they cost, and I'd happily answer any questions you've got. Also, yes I am a bit of a electric scooter nut/loser, if this thesis of a post is anything to go by.

OK, I'm thinking we do this in stages.

Stage 1 which will allow you to get it riding now and will be perfectly capable of a 4-5mi round trip.

Cable Cutters ($20) stick to the better units but probably no need to go for Park Tool. BBB make a nice one, although I currently have an IceToolz cable cutter because I can't find my good ones.
For the brakes you will need a 4th hand cable stretcher like this Pedros ($17) unit which is a third the cost of a Park Tool unit.
Will also need cables, easiest way is to grab a DIY Jagwire ($24) kit which has both brake and shift cables.
These Vittoria Zaffiro tyres are a good compromise of value, durability and performance. I use these a lot and they're on my training bike. Will also need tubes, and being a commuter, flats are not your friend so these Schwalbe tubes are a good idea. ($60)
Arundel cork bar tape ($20)
A new chain for your bike is probably the only way forward, and this KMC is perfect ($6)
The brake pads on your calipers will now doubt be old, and also a 30yo pad compound, so not overly efficient. Would strongly recommend these Kool Stop Continental brake pads as a starting point before we get to Phase 2 ($10)

Grease for the Bottom Bracket and Headset (and wheel hubs) is also needed, but there's absolutely no need to buy bike-specific grease, so this Valvoline tub as an example would be ideal ($10) .
The chain needs to be lubed, and in dry conditions I like Finish Line dry lube. Others will have their own preferences, but this is a good starting point.

Also should think about replacing the saddle, but this is very subjective and not something that can be recommended in terms of which saddle to buy. Maybe scoot around Craigslist for your area and see what comes up..

In terms of learning the skills, the Park Tool video channel is surprisingly good although heavy on product placement and endorsement although this is to be expected. There are lots of alternatives to Park Tool tools though, including Pedro's, BBB and others. None of the skills associated with your era of bike are all that difficult, and refurbishing this to be usable in your context is completely feasible in your garage.

May also want to consider buying one of the entry-level bike toolkits like this tool kit as a starting point ($40) although this is just an example however is the same kit as others sell just rebranded.

So phase 1 (not including the tool kit) is about $160-ish and watching a bunch of videos.

sorry for the essay, but once I started it just sort of kept going. Phase 2 is removal of existing driveline, and upgrading to a Shimano 2x8sp indexed group with modern dual pivot calipers and modern alloy wheels. But we can cover that later.

• Pack light. It makes everything so much easier when you are not burdened by a huge backpack.
  
• Clothes that dry quickly. You'd be amazed how much of a difference this makes. When on the road the last thing you want to do is pack clothes back into your bag that are still a bit wet. Personally I like hiking kit for this property.
  
• Travel towel - They pack down much smaller than regular towels and dry much quicker, well worth the money.
  
• A pair of spare shoelaces/length of string - instant washing line as well as just being handy!
  
• Penknife. Nothing fancy needed, but a blade and bottle opener can be very helpful and having a bottle opener when others don't will sometimes get you a free beer! :-D
  
• A Drysack. These are what I am referring to. Have your most important documents in one, just in case you get drenched. A spare one can be good for keeping wet clothes/smelly socks quarantined off from stinking up a backpack!
  *A list of basic phrases for each language you expect to encounter. Even if people are likely to know some English in the areas you are going to, just being able to say 'please' and 'thank you' in the local language will be much appreciated! Also, if stuck remember that younger people are more likely to know English than older people.
  
• 1x AC adapter to local plugs and 1x 3-way adapter for US plugs to plug into it. You can charge more and plugs can be at a premium. I did this with UK/Irish plugs and it worked great, but check about voltages etc first.
  
• Split the load. Some things you will not all need to take (ie Shaving foam) so for these things just share and save space/weight. It might sound obvious, but you'd be amazed how many people don't do this!

I would not recommend this. choices differ between if you are backpacking/hiking to a camp or just driving in/car camping. Gear can be expensive or reasonable but If you are just starting out, I would not recommend buying expensive gear before you know what provides you value. Everyone's different so some questions only you will be able to answer once you go a few times. I would recommend going conservative on cost to start out until you know what you prefer (Checking out other peoples gear on camping trips/ REI browsing sessions are a gold mine)

​

Sleeping Bag depending on what the night time low temps are (based mostly on how high the elevation youre going to be sleeping at this time of year) you don't need a sleeping bag, I would instead recommend a light packable down quilt like the one from Costco or This cost: $20-$40

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pricier sleeping bag option

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XE2SKG2/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=darwionthe-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B00XE2SKG2&linkId=faa0813c08ae84dc66e192d16eef9fde

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Sleeping Pad Basic sleeping pad :https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LZWW2FD/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=darwionthe-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B01LZWW2FD&linkId=7f466defe405f13e4d8f457436a33b6c $35-$40

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I personally use the Klymit Static V, You can get them refurbished for very little on Amazon/Ebay

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Tent Lots of options here, a few of them good for a low price. Decision is if you're going to be going solo or taking company (Size) and again how light you want to go on the weight. Freestanding tents generally provide more shelter but can be hotter in the summer and generally heavier. Some people choose only a light tarp setup for ultralight backpacking. its a personal choice but I would definitely take some time to think what suits your need on this. A few options.

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(requires trekking poles) light

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J9XWJEI/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=darwionthe-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B01J9XWKHY&linkId=df511cfe28f404892810dfcda5f5560d&th=1&psc=1

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Freestanding option $112

https://www.amazon.com/Kelty-Salida-Camping-Backpacking-Tent/dp/B00NFCFO0Q/ref=sr_1_1?qid=1563337921&s=gateway&sr=8-1

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Cheaper $95

https://www.amazon.com/ALPS-Mountaineering-Lynx-1-Person-Tent/dp/B00BMKD1DU/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=1p+tent&qid=1563338006&s=gateway&sr=8-3

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For the tent I would recommend spending a little more if you are strictly buying for car camping, itll have more longevity and youll be using it for a few years. This is my car camping tent. $260

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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M87LPMU/ref=twister_B07BWCR88J?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

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I would highly recommend investing in some permethrin/bug spray, a good hat and a Head Net to go along with it.

​

Happy trails.

For me, this: https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-PH-1-2-P-Handled-Wrench/dp/B003FPONCI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1541802830&sr=8-2&keywords=park+tool+allen+key&dpID=419-T8tUMxL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

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I was too stingy to buy good allen keys for a very long time because I had a ton of really cheap ones, and the cheap ones did work. But every time I use the ones above, I think: "These were so worth it". I say that to myself every single time.

​

Not a tool, but since someone else mentioned a tire: 200 miles ago I put on some Maxis Hookworms - best commuting tires I ever had. Wow. I had Vee Chinane and then Vee Speedster before - I got flats every other week, none on the hookworms and the hookworms are much more stable on less grippy surfaces either. Every time I reach a place I think: Wow, those are the best tires I ever had.

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Other tools I use constantly:

- my bike repair stand, i use this one: https://www.amazon.com/Bikehand-Mechanic-Bicycle-Repair-Stand/dp/B00D9B7OKQ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1541802939&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=bikehand+bike+stand&psc=1

- my chain link tool: https://www.amazon.com/d/Bike-Shop-Tools/Park-Tool-Master-Pliers-MLP-1-2/B00D9NW32I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541803019&sr=8-1&keywords=park+tool+chain+link+tool

- A good portable multitool with chainbreaker: https://www.amazon.com/d/Bike-Multifunction-Tools/Topeak-Alien-31-Function-Bicycle-Tool/B000FIE4AE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1541803074&sr=8-2&keywords=alien+tool

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Looks like a lot of stuff has been covered already.

As far as pedals, I ride with these Faceoff 13's and they've treated me well. If you can afford a decent pair of riding shoes, you can't really go wrong with 5.10's. If you decide to go clipless later, you can get 5.10's that you can ride clipless or on flats (see the Hellcat's). I recommend a good shoe with a sturdy sole. I rode with Vans for a while and dabbed my foot to catch my balance and ended up dabbing it right into a rock. The Vans crumpled and my toe took the brunt of the force. Not fun. I couldn't walk very well for a while. Good riding socks are awesome, too just to keep your feet from getting really sweaty.

Someone mentioned the Camelbak MULE. That's what I ride with and highly recommend it.

As for a helmet, I've been riding with a Fox Flux this season and I've been really impressed with it. I wear a skullcap under it to help keep my head cool and keep sweat from dripping into my face. You'll want something well ventilated over the BMX helmet for sure.

I do highly recommend a good pair of riding shorts with a comfortable chamois. I have some shorts from Fox, Dakine and Pearl Izumi and the Fox shorts have the best chamois and fit most comfortably.

You'll definitely want to bring an extra tube or two, tire levers and a hand pump or CO2. As far as tools, I take this multi-tool. It's a bit heavy, but it's treated me well. I would also throw some zip ties in your bag as well. They're light, but when you need them, they're worth their weight in gold.

• Tent - GoLite Wolf Creek, their Imogene would be lighter but is more expensive, there is also a 3 man Wolf Creek that would give you more room. $200
  
  
• Sleeping bag - Enlightened Equipment Quilt, more comfortable than a mummy bag and way lighter. ~$200
  
  
• Sleeping pad - Therm-a-rest Z-Lite, not as comfortable as an inflatable but cheap. $40
  
  
• Backpack - GoLite Jam 50 ultralight and comfortable. $100
  
  
• Headlamp - Black Diamond Spot, bomber. $40
  
  
• Water Filtration - Sawyer Squeeze, easy to use and dependable. $35
  
  
• Water Bladder - Platypus Big Zip 3L, easy to clean. $35
  
  That adds up to about $650. With the extra I would look into:
  
  -first aid kit
  -wool socks
  -multi-tool
  -long handle spoon
  -titanium cup
  -bear bag rope
  -compas
  -gps
  -rain jacket
  -soft shell pants
  -puffy jacket
  -lighter
  -hiking poles
  -trail runner shoes
  -and something nice for your girlfriend since she is brave enough to camp/hike/backpack!

It has much of what you need (allen wrenches & screwdrivers), plus a bunch of things you might not (sockets & socket wrenches). If all you have to spend is $12, you could probably do worse, but if you want a good multi-tool that'll last you a while, you should probably skip it.

At a minimum, i think a multi-tool should have allen wrenches (3,4,5,6mm at least), a philips and a flat screwdriver, and a chain-breaker. It should also have at least one tire lever unless you carry that separately. If your bike has hex head bolts anywhere (usually 8mm, less commonly 9 and 10mm), it should also have those or you should carry them separately.

Some people carry a tool like this one that has pretty much everything. The chain-breaker on that one is outstanding; I used the same one (on a different Topeak tool) as my only chain-breaker for years and it still works perfectly.

My bike doesn't need those extra tools, so for an all-in-one, I prefer only to carry what I need. This one is the first one i bought 7 or 8 years ago and was used regularly until last spring. It has all the tools needed for bikes that only use allen bolts, and the chain-breaker is awesome if you have a separate allen wrench to turn it. The tire levers are pretty solid and will last years if you use them carefully. My only real complaint about it is that the chain-breaker is turned using a 4mm allen head glued into one of the tire levers and doesn't last, so you need to carry a separate 4mm allen wrench or plan to use the tire lever to disassemble the tool so you can use that one.

I carry this one now. I bought it to replace the other one last year after I finally broke one of the tire levers. I really like it; it's more compact than the Hexus II and weighs a bit less, and still has all of the same tools. The weakest part is probably the chain-breaker, but it seems strong enough to handle the occasional roadside emergency.

• For PIO - I got these little hand warmers. Then when I don't have time to sit on a hot pack after the PIO in the morning I can pop one of these in my pocket and go on my way. It also worries me less post-transfer when I don't want to heat up too much.
  
  
• I started wearing cloth pads/liners. My periods have always been super light so I generally can't wear tampons. During my stim cycles I had a lot of cervical mucus and wearing pantyliner all of the time was so uncomfortable. These are much better!! I haven't done suppositories, but I assume that they would be better for that as well. I got this idea from someone on this board and thought it was dumb but was willing to try it anyway. They are amazing!
  
  
• Arnica for bruises, especially the ones I get from repeat blood draws. It really helps the bruising to dissipate - I always get the blood draw from the same place and it really starts to hurt.
  
  
• I paid the extra $2.99 or whatever it is a month to have Visual Voice Mail on my cell phone. I don't have a job where I can answer my phone whenever the clinic calls and it stresses me out to not be able to talk to them or listen to the voice mail. But with the VVM I can read the message and get the gist of what's going on. It's not perfect (it doesn't get my doc's name right or 'blastocyst'...a few other things), but it's good enough. At least then I know right away whether things are OK or if there's a problem.
  
  
• I bake cookies for my clinic. I go to a satellite clinic, and on the last day that I see my RE before retrieval/transfer I bring her a plate of homemade cookies, and then I bring a plate on retrieval/transfer day to the main clinic. I find that a) it's good to feed the people who stick you with things and b) they remember it. I only see those nurses at the main clinic for procedures but they know my name and go out of their way to help out...which ended up being super important on my 4th retrieval. It's a little thing, but they all really appreciate it. Apparently this isn't super common, and I think it should be...they do so much, they can have cookies. You are all welcome to this hack as long as you don't see MY RE at MY clinic...that's my thing and she knows it!

Over the past year I've been piecing together camping gear. I ultimately plan on doing backpacking trips once I become a more experienced camper, and graduate college. Growing up, I went camping frequently but never really did any backpacking or primitive camping where you have to hike to the campsite - my dad always took us to the campsites you can drive up to. My friend, who boasts about the camping etiquette and survival skills he learned in boy scouts, justly criticizes my experience camping - which is limited to campsites that don't require you to pack light and have easy access to water (and restrooms). For example, I've never had the opportunity of digging a hole to shit in. Do I just dig a hole with my hands? Do I need to bring a shovel? How much toilet paper do I need to bring for a 2-3 day trip? I know I have to bring the used paper with me, so how do you recommend carrying trash in general?

Things like this I figure I'd learn overtime. And I do plan on pacing myself; I'm going to work my way up from 1-2 day trips to 2-3 day trips to 4-5 day trips, and ultimately something like the Appalachian Trail. My favorite place to go camping is Big Bend National Park, and there's a 2-3 day trip I'd like to do sometime this year.

I guess my main questions are:

1. How would you recommend starting off? Would a couple of 2-3 day backpacking trips, with my friend, be a good place to start?
   
2. Is my gear sufficient? Is there anything I'm missing?
   
3. Any general tips, book or gear suggestions.
   
   Here's a list of my gear:
   
   

• REI Passage 2 Tent
  
• Osprey Volt 75 Backpack w/ bladder
  
• Marmot Trestles 30 Sleeping Bag and a sleeping pad
  
• Hammock (which I think, if i'm using a tent, would make for a great pillow when it's folded up)
  
• Mess Kit and utensils
  
• Fuel Tablet Camping Stove
  
• Rechargeable flashlight
  
• A small, rechargeable lantern
  
• 2 multi-tool pliers - one big, one small
  
• 2 knifes
  
• First aid kit
  
  Also, I plan on getting a pair of hiking boots this summer. Any suggestions?
  
  edit: grammar

As long as it's not way too small or large for you, that's a good buy. I own a vintage road bicycle and enjoy it more than most modern bicycles I've ridden. That being said, my recommendations:

• Get a tune-up for sure, but don't paint it. It looks fine!
  
• Get some nice bar tape (perhaps cork?) and replace that nasty stuff
  
• Adjust your seat, it looks quite low; at the bottom of your pedal stroke your leg should be almost fully extended
  
• Since you have a quill stem, you can also easily drop your handlebars further down, or pull them further up probably
  
• Just as a word of precaution, you should invest in a nice pump with a gauge like this and check your tire pressure every few days (at least).
  
  Peugeots are definitely solid vintage road bicycles. I would have bought this if it were on my local Craigslist. As others have said, these are also great to convert to single speeds or fixies, but I'd keep it as a road bike. However if you wanted to sell it at a later date and you live near a college, it might be easier to sell it as a fixie ;).
  
  Congrats, enjoy the ride.

Disc racks can work on non-disc brake wheels. I use a Blackburn EX-1 Disc Rack on my bike. My bike does not have the eyelets by the wheel hub for pannier racks, but strangely it does have the eyelets on the seat stay for them. I found this rack works very well on my bike.

For USB rechargeable lights, I use a Cygolite Metro 500 and a Cygolite Hotshot. Both lights are easily removable so you can take them with you when you leave your bike locked up. There are cheaper versions of the Cygolite Metro which are also quite good (300, 360, 400), but not quite as bright. The Metro 300 is probably enough light for most people, and is what I used first. The only reason I switched is because my girlfriend's bike needed a better headlight, so I used that as an excuse to upgrade mine and give her my old one. Currently the 360 is cheaper than the 300 on Amazon, and is brighter. So there's no reason to get the 300 right now.

For multi tool, I like the Topeak Hexus II. Someone else on Reddit recommended it to me months ago and I'm quite satisfied.

For a full time commuter, I recommend some puncture resistant tires. I use Continental Gatorskins with Mr Tuffy liners inside them. Haven't had a single flat in several months now. Having a flat on your way to work would really suck, especially in crappy winter weather.

I use Ortlieb Front Rollers on my rear rack, as I was worried the Back Rollers would be large enough to cause heel strike. The Front Rollers are very nice. I love how easy they are to put on and take off, plus they're quite rugged and keep everything dry. The Front Rollers are just barely large enough for a 15" laptop, though I can't roll the top down well with it in there.

http://www.amazon.com/HotHands-Hand-Warmers-Pair-Value/dp/B00D7H9LIA/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1406786257&sr=1-1&keywords=hand+warmer

Im sure any handwarmer will do but here is an example. You can also get the foot warmers which are nice because one side is sticky. When I did it I would get the urine right before I head to the test and then stick a handwarmer onto the bottle immediately to keep it warm. Im not a 100% sure about this but im guessing there is a range that the temperature needs to be, probably somewhere between 80-120 degrees Fahrenheit, I never had a problem with it being too warm but I did have a friend that was using the same method and his turned out too cold, I think its because he got the urine too early. The goal of the handwarmers is just to maintain the heat that is already there not actually warm the urine. Good luck, hope everything works out for you!

Titanium Pot - 28 oz savings ($35)

Drop The mug, just use your pot - 4 oz savings (free)

Trowel instead of shovel - 16 oz savings ($20)

Drop the solar panel (doesn't really work well on the move) - 10-ish savings (free)

Sawyer Squeeze instead of Katadyn - 8 oz savings ($30)

Dance Pants instead of packed pants - 14 oz saved ($18) although you probably dont need these since you're wearing zip off pants

I would add a puffy to your clothing, it will get pretty cold - 10 oz gained (can be found on sale for $40)

Leave the extra shirts at home - 12 oz saved (free)

Just bring one extra payer of underwear and socks - 6 oz saved (free)

Leave campshoes at home - 23 oz saved (free)

I really don't know what the survival kit contains, but it can probably be paired down or eliminated

Don't know what the carabiners are for if you're hanging stuff outside your pack you're bringing too much - 4 oz saved (free)

Don't know what the tarp is for the sierras, you already have a tent

125 oz saved or almost 8 pounds. Coming in at a cost around $150.

I would start here and then look at replacing your bigger items. The easiest one to save the most weight would be your pack.

Hope this helps!

Just be careful and dont get a beach cruiser!!!!! id recommend a hybrid bike like a trek 7.1 and put a rack on it for panniers so you can carry your stuff. Also if you are over weight i highly recommend a brooks saddle i have a b17 and its wonderful on my ass. Also bike shorts 4.3 miles aint long, but it will make your life much easier. A cheap walmart bike will break often and be expensive to repair. Refer over to r/bicycling to learn more if you are strapped for cash id go with this bike its a good all rounder and bikesdirect is a good company, or a trek and the seat brooks b17 bike rack panniers shorts
Once again do not buy a bike from walmart it will make you hate bicycling. Oh also rules and sheldon brown a repository of all things cycling
Best of luck to you, safe riding and Dont buy this!!

G-shock Mudman is hard to beat. Buttons are a little harder to push but it's completely sealed from fluids/dirt so it's easy to clean.

The DW5600 is excellent if you prefer smaller watches

I also like the DW9502

The DW6900 is awesome as well, this model never needs battery changes thanks to solar cells on it. It's a classic model

I've created a short list of everything I have, linked items are the ones that I recommend.

Things for the road

Frame/ Mini pump

Saddle Bag

Patch Kit

Tire Boot (You can make your own for cheap, but these are still good)

Tire levers (See Multi-Tool, Levers Included)

Multi Tool (Super-Recommend)

Bike Lights

Spare Tubes (Optional for the road)

Bottles of choice

Sunglasses of choice

Gloves of choice (Important! For preventing impossible-to-heal palm scrapes)

Cycling compter

U Lock (no cable locks! they're garbage) <<I Have 3 of these, but then again, I live in Oakland.

Things for home

Floor pump

Tools (Pretty much covered by Multi-Tool, but there's things you may need like cassette tool, chain whip, etc)

Wet and Dry chain lube

Clothing (Optional, I only have the shoes and windbreaker)

Hi-Vis Jacket

Clipless shoes, I recommend SPD for easier walking

Jersey

Padded Shorts, or Bib shorts

Windbreaker

Leg Warmers

Most importantly, you need knowledge of cycling. Look up videos on youtube about safe riding on the road, traffic laws, hand signals, how to repair your bike on the road and at home, how to take a fall, and as much theory that you can)

EDIT: Do not let me trick you into thinking that a multi-tool is a replacement for the big-boy tools that are available on the market. Some of those tools are actually worth the investment. However, be that as it may, do your research first, because there's some overpriced crap out there ^^^Park ^^^Tools.

I've made many alcohol stoves and have found that the penny stove is the best overall design. You can pour unused fuel back into the bottle and it has pretty good heat output. If you don't mind a little more weight the Trangia stove is a good option-it's quite a bit more durable than the penny stove, and you can carry it with fuel in it without spilling.

I've made several quilts, both down and synthetic. Down is a bit of a PITA to deal with so take that into account. A climashield quilt is pretty easy on the other hand-quilt it with yarn and very easy to handle during construction. Not compressible though, unlike down. I do also have the EE Revelation in regular/regular/20 degree rating and am very happy with it. I was out with it the other night in Shenandoah-33 degrees with high humidity and was nice and warm sleeping in a base layer and underwear.

Yeah sorry I forgot about your no brazon / p-clamp requirement.

They have a lot of options. I chose the Explorer rack which was much lighter than my other two rear racks.

I am considering buying one of their Beamracks for my road bike without the side frame add-on so I can use my bag for weekend rides as well.

Some other things I considered were not as functional, were more expensive, but looked much better. They don't exactly match your requirements, but maybe they'll give you some ideas.

• Carradice Camper with the Bagman Expedition Support which meets your requirements, except for price.
  
• Sackville Saddlesacks
  
• Minnehaha Saddle Bag
  
  The one I had before the Topeak one was a Racktime Wall-it with a Snapit rack. I really like it, but I just needed to carry more stuff. The Snapit system is nice and works with the Ortlieb trunk bag as well. I got it really cheap on Sierra Trading post. You can even buy the Snapit adapter by itself to make the system work with any bag you like.
  
  Hope you find something that works well for you.

When you say "Trails", do you mean singletrack loose dirt bike paths, or more along the lines of fire roads, hard packed dirt with a bit of gravel?

If the latter, I think your "city tires" will probably do just fine. Even if they're full slicks (which I suspect they aren't), simply letting some air out of the tires will provide the control you need.

On the tire's sidewall you'll find a max PSI rating. For the road keep it near it's maximum for rolling efficiency. Probably anywhere from 60 to 85 depending on the tire they put on. Lower it to 45-50 for dirt. You'll be surprised at how well the bike handles.

But ChimpStyles, you ask, What if I want to ride 5 miles on the road to the trailhead and back? Won't that suck with the tires deflated? Get yourself a portable pump replies the ever stylish ChimpStyles. You'll want one as part of your toolkit if you get a flat. I like the Topeak Road Morph G. Ask your local bike shop for help if you don't know how to change a flat, I'm sure they'll help.
Thanks ChimpStyles, you're the best! cries monkeyfunky.

And they all lived happily ever after.

If you are going to be riding some more serious / technical / whateveryouwanttocallit trails, then some knobby, dirt-specific tires would be of benefit. In that case, if you can afford a second wheelset I would do that. Tell the shop you what you want 'em for and they'll help you pick out a good set. That will be way cheaper than buying a different bike. You can get a good wheelset with tires for ~300-400 vs. 600-tothemoon for a decent mountain bike.

Have fun on the bike.

I recently bought a Giant Escape 2 for commuting from Arlington to Downtown DC and it works great, I got the bike and lock for less than $500. If you want to look at bikes, Papillion Bicycles is the local Giant dealer and Spokes etc. is one of the local Trek and Specialized dealers. You can go and ride the bikes and see what you like, but at that price point almost all the hybrid bikes are the same.

After that I got a Topeak rear rack with this Trunk Bag and it works great, fits my computer, clothes and even lunch. It has side panniers that fold out. I would recommend that you get some cygolite front and rear lights from amazon as well.

If you're serious about commuting, something along these lines is your best bet.

[Here is my setup] (http://imgur.com/gallery/IBw0q)

Edit: Word

If you're using tubs... or tubeless (can't remember which), I can't help you much from experience, but I can tell you Lezyne makes some beautiful and well-engineered products and you'll need a shock pump to seat the tubular or tubeless tires onto the rim, so I would feel confident recommending this Lezyne floor pump.

On the other hand, if you run clinchers, I've had good luck with this Topeak Joe Blow pump, rated for up to something like 160psi

Also, you likely already know, but just in case, here's /r/triathlon

You can also get an Esbit version. They're nice because they can hold a fair bit of fuel in a pretty small package. It comes with a screw top and an O-ring, so you can fill it with fuel, put it out, and seal it back up with no wasted fuel. They're also lightweight, and you can use over the counter rubbing alcohol for fuel - although the BTUs on that sort of stuff might be inferior to other fuels. I don't know.

The only thing I WILL say about them, though, is that I'd recommend keeping it relatively warm in colder weather. I've found that my alcohol stove simply refuses to start if its too cold, and so the last time I went out I kept it in my sleeping bag with me while I slept, and it fired up without much trouble in the morning.

Also would recommend some sort of windscreen, just in case. Esbit does also make another UL stove that uses their fuel tablets, which the alcohol stove can fit into (but getting it lit requires a little extra effort either getting it into the slots, or lighting it while its in the slots).

Of course, there's also always these guys also by Esbit, which you can store the fuel cells in when its folded. The only thing I don't like about them (which take with a giant grain of salt, because I'm 100% an amateur to all of this) is that you're limited with the fuel cell and the length of burn. You don't end up wasting any excess fuel with the alcohol stove. Also, you do get the added benefit, if you're using rubbing alcohol for fuel, of having an antiseptic available in a pinch.

Finally, an option to keep the whole package on the small end, you have these little guys as pot stands. They work great to keep my pot elevated off the stove, but I will say that they do seem to get in the way of the burn a bit and inhibit some of the airflow, but not enough to be a huge issue. They fit into the Esbit alcohol stove perfectly, but again, you might be better off with something that lifts the pot up a bit more for a better burn. I think they're designed to be used with the their own brand of alcohol stove, though, so that's probably why they don't work great.

I recently picked up some SPD pedals (these specifically) and absolutely love them. Two things to make sure of from my experience:

1. Make sure you get shoes that fit you perfectly. It took me a few different types of shoes and a few sizes to find the ones that work well for me.
   
   
2. PRACTICE CLIPPING AND UNCLIPPING BEFORE YOU GO RIDING! It'll only take a few embarassing tip overs to figure out what you're doing, but you can save those by spending 10-15 minutes holding on to a fence post or something repeatedly clipping in and out.
   
   I love them, and I find that I'm more willing to take on sketchier terrain. Plus I feel like I could jump over a house now. So there's that.

Tools. Most people don't have proper bike tools, so that would be a great surprise. You can either get a decent multi-tool (get one with a chain-breaker and tire wrenches) or a variety of Park Tools. Here are some Park Tools that I find invaluable: 3-way hex, chain cleaning tools, pedal wrench, and/or a chain whip

This bar tape is amazing 3mm Fizik performance. Tape should be replaced semi-regularly, but most people don't, so it would be a great surprise gift. Black looks good on almost every bike.

You don't really say where you are and what type of riding you'll be doing but here's my $0.02 on what I've done and would recommend to others.


Clipless Pedals + Shoes --> These are the newer version to what I use on my roadie, but if you want the versatility of the dual clipless or the single+flat on the other side, you can do that. Or you can go with full-road-cleated pedals, of course. For the shoes, try some out at a store, the internet hasn't replaced this step.

Saddle bag -- I err.. duct taped a tube to my seatpost and carry the rest of my crap in my jersey pockets.

Water bottle -- If you ride in extreme weather, consider an insulated bottle, it's sooo nice to fill with iced water and have cool water to dring on 100F+ days

Pump -- I have one that came with a bracket to bolt under the water cages, maybe look for one like it (can't remember the brand of mine)

??? (I have no idea what else I will need) -- you'll need/want:

• a multitool to adjust or fix anything that can come up. I have the park multitool and I don't really recommend it as there's probably better tools out there for road bike use, just make sure that it has a chain tool included.
  
• Tire levers, if they aren't included somehow in the multitool. I always carry one extra so I can have 3 leverage points if I get a flat.
  
• With a new bike you might need bottle cages.
  
• Get some chain lube if you don't have any.
  
• Depending on chain brand, a power link or quick link
  
• For patch kits, the park one is pretty much OK but do stay away from the self-adhering ones, they're garbage!

If you're on the road you need shit that is all utility. I've put together a list that I think fits that bill. No Kershaw Cryo fashion knives here. I love a good looking blade but if you pull that out and lay it next to you far from being threatening someone will probably just steal it.

You need to buy a hobo knife to be a proper hobo.

For a self defense blade I would look at the Cold Steel GI Tanto. To be honest it is best used as a deterrent, it is menacing enough that it should serve that purpose. It's tough steel too so you can use it to pry and chop too. Prepping firewood with it by batoning is going to be easy.

A coarse diamond sharpening key chain is also nice to have.

Here is a waterproof jacket for $11 from Eddie Bauer.

Some inexpensive dry stuff sacks would be good too.

A stainless water bottle that you can also use for cooking is good too.

Everyone has a favorite chain lube. I use Finish Line. Honestly, it doesn't make too much difference which lube you use, as long as it's one specially formulated for chains. Some are designed for wet conditions, which is good for some people.

For cleaning, pick up some automotive degreaser. Bike-specific degreaser is expensive and isn't really much better.

To clean the chain, you can usually just use a rag and some degreaser. A chain cleaning tool (the ones with three internal brushes) is handy, but not required. Always lube after cleaning, which should be done every 100-200 miles.

If you really want a clean drivetrain, I highly recommend an ultrasonic cleaner. Very effective at cleaning the cassette and chain, with almost no effort. Just remember to relube the chain really, really well after cleaning it.

I transitioned into working on my bikes almost entirely by myself (Wheel building/suspension service/bearings excluded) and this is the exact path I went down as well. Here is everything I bought from Amazon:

The same $50 tool kit

Torque wrench

Cable/housing/wire cutter

Chain/quick link pliers


Wet/Dry Chain lubes

Park Tool grease

Degreaser

Blue Loctite

Carbon grip paste

And some additional small things like cables, cable end caps, ferrules, zip ties, etc. A set of needle nose pliers can be handy to help push/pull stubborn cables/housings as well.

Also, to make working on the bike 10x easier, I recommend getting a stand. I use this one because I am space constrained and it folds up nice and small, but there are probably better ones out there.

It seems like a lot of $$ to lay out at first, but it pays for itself pretty quickly compared to taking the bike to a shop every time you need to do something to it. Basically everything you need to do can be found on YouTube as well.

You may also consider the G-Shock AWGM100. It has solar power and syncs to the atomic time signal. It is a very comfortable watch too, one of my most comfortable. It has a stopwatch, count-down timer, alarms, and 24-hour time in the digital display. The light on most analog/digital g-shocks is not that great, but g-shock is a very tactical watch and will survive almost anything while providing great functionality.
If you are not opposed to going all digital, I would suggest a G-Shock GDX-6900 or a slightly smaller version that supports solar power and atomic time syncing G-Shock GW-6900.
I would definitely go with a g-shock though. People in law enforcement and the military often choose a g-shock because of their functionality and outstanding ruggedness.

I've had these kayak racks for about 4 years, so no, they are not manufacturer (which I think is Thule). I had them on a '14 Outback until last month.

I looked up the big-name brands at the time and was blown away by the price for a basic rack - not any of those with an elevator system or anything - $100+ was insane, I thought. The way I looked at it was a kayak rack is actually very simple construction. Bent steel with some foam and a mounting bracket system. So I looked on Amazon and found a pair for something like $25 shipped.

​

The shape that the camps are molded to doesn't fit the exact shape of the crossbar, but this does not hinder them from being safely tightened. When cranked tight, it has no slippage whatsoever. And I test with a few tugs every time I use them. Great price, great purchase, would recommend 100%.

​

This is the exact same product I purchased. Note the price was about $25 at the time, and has gone up. You might be able to find cheaper, or even a double set for around this same price. All the top Amazon products in the category all look to be the exact same thing.

https://www.amazon.com/TMS-J-Bar-Carrier-Mounted-Crossbar/dp/B003V57NUQ

What is your plan for going to the bathroom if there is no running water/toilets/privacy? At the least get a bucket toilet so that you have some place to put it all.

If you plan on doing some clean up, get face masks/respirators and protective eyewear appropriate for that. If you are wearing work gloves, put latex/nitrile gloves under that. There are gloves that are a bit longer than the usual wrist length. Any cut/wound becomes an opportunity for infection. Make sure you have enough first aid supplies to both thoroughly clean and bandage any cut/wound.

Have good "hand awareness" -that is be mindful of not touching your face. All the gloves and ppe in the world won't do any good if you rub your gloved hand over your eyes/nose/mouth and directly administer cooties to yourself. That is another reason for some sort of mask/eyewear -so that you don't rub gunk in places you don't want gunk.

Be careful! Stay safe! I hope your house is ok.
edit: formatting fail

I love my Topeak Alien II multitool since it has every tool I and other cyclists need. I've helped out a number of people on the bike paths who've had mechanical issues with this thing, as well as used it to do my own on the fly maintenance. If that has too many tools, go with the 19 tool Crank Brothers multi tool.

You also need a patch kit with glue (the stick on ones are garbage), one or two spare tubes, tire levers (get Pedro's since they can handle any tire without breaking), and either a mini pump or CO2 cartridge canister/ CO2 cartridge. I will say that I don't carry the latter items on me when I'm commuting, if only because I invested in some of the most puncture resistant tires out there so I almost never get a flat. On road and mtb rides, I always have these items.

To clean my various bikes' chains and gears, I have two wire brushes, some spray on engine degreaser, a rag, and all weather bike lube. I also keep a tube of marine grease on hand which helps with involved tasks (hub servicing, etc) and swapping out some parts.

GCN on YouTube is the best resource for bike maintenance if you ride a road bike. For help with hybrids and mountain bikes, check out ParkTool and GMBN on YouTube.

I've met lots of people with dragonfly stoves - it presses home though why the whisperlite is named as such. the noise THE NOISE that a dragonfly makes..
this (control) is a real problem with whisperlites though - if i want to apply less heat than the lowest working setting (will vary with fuel type and quality), i tend to just hold the pan above the flame - practical enough when frying eggs, perhaps less so with more elaborate cuisine.

an inexpensive way to have a gentle simmer - buy (or better, make your own) spirit burner; very light and inexpensive so no biggie if you decide you don't like it. they don't have the grunt that petrol or gas stoves have, but i was impressed with how good they actually are. (something like www.amazon.co.uk/Trangia-Spirit-Burner-With-Screwcap/dp/B000AR7970 or home-made - http://www.instructables.com/id/Can-Stove/ ) a spirit stove is hardly an encumbrance, so you can simmer your dinner on it, while making tea AT THE SAME TIME. (my god, the luxury)
a small bottle of ethanol is useful to have in any event, for lots of things, not least cleanly priming your whisperlite, or getting the f*cker to light at all if you're using paraffin or diesel.

I've been using a Kelty Salida 2 for about 7 years now. It's a solid tent that didn't cost an arm and a leg.

I've eyeballed other tents but honestly, I like it because it's not too heavy, and can be set up in a pinch (there are just two poles, and the tent snaps onto them).

I've used it only a couple of times in the rain and it held up well. I've used it in the snow as well and it works just fine.

https://www.amazon.com/Kelty-Salida-2-People-Grey/dp/B00NFCFO0Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522942630&sr=8-1&keywords=kelty%2Bsalida%2B2&th=1&psc=1

EDIT: I did immediately buy better stakes (the red MSR ones). It's worth the expense.

My carlight is a Skilhunt H03 - (link to review) It's currently $32 on sale from gearbest but it's also on US amazon for $45 if you want it soon. It's a right angle light that takes 18650 batteries or 2 CR123A batteries. It can be worn using the headband, or held, or attached to a part of the car using the magnet on the tail. If you get this light, use 2 CRA123As as they can sit for a decade untouched. Just be sure to loosen the tailcap before you store it, since the flashlight itself has a small amount of passive battery drain while off that is an issue when you're speaking about multiple years.

Rechargable lithium batteries don't like the cold, and non-rechargable AAs tend to leak, so for a light you're going to just toss in your glovebox, consider using non-rechargables.

Even if you don't go with the H03, you can buy lithium AA batteries in hardware stores and toss that in your car flashlight and they won't leak on you and will turn the light on just fine a decade from now.

Edit: AA sized suggestion is the Thrunite T10 II. It's around $20 and runs on AA or 14500 (3.7V rechargable lithium AA sized battery). The NW (neutral white) version is recommended as it's closest to pure white rather than a harsher blue light.

Same suggestion as before, if you're going to toss it in a car buy some lithium AAs (non-rechargable, 1.5V) and twist the tailcap a little before storage so the parasitic drain (or accidental turn-on from a feisty pothole) doesn't get you over the course of years. It has a magnet too, which I find super useful for a car light.

1. Huarache sandals. Runners and shower shoes and passable with a dress, all in one lightweight and compact package. Add wool toe socks in cold weather for an extremely fashionable 4-season look.
   
2. Evernew 2L Water Carry and Sawyer Squeeze filter. Enough storage capacity for most backpacking trips, and surprisingly durable and effective for 124g combined.
   
3. Vargo Titanium BOT 700 + neoprene cozy. Useful as a pot, water bottle, travel mug, or small item storage. It's nice when my backpacking gear isn't just dead weight.
   
4. Montbell Breeze Dry-Tec Sleeping Bag Cover. It's a basic waterproof-breathable bivy that actually performs, and allows me to have a full summer sleep system (bivy, quilt, air mattress) in a tiny package that weighs only 1.46lbs.
   
5. Aeropress + Porlex Mini grinder. Good coffee is worth it.
   
6. This hair brush/comb that came in a business class care package. Only 12 grams! I continue to be smitten by it.
   
7. Silk dress shirt. Lightweight classiness that doesn't get wrinkled.
   
8. Prana Halle Pants. Heavy, but I feel like I can do anything in these pants.
   
9. Peak Design Everyday Sling. Fits my mirrorless camera set-up and a Surface Pro in a decently small package.
   
10. Penny board. Great for cruising around town when you don't want to deal with a bike.

To narrow down your search: I purchased a Camelbak MULE last April along with a Topeak Alien II multitool. Both of these items were fantastic purchases, and I'm so glad I bought them.

If you're interested in gloves, I bought a pair of Fox Inclines a while back and am happy with that purchase as well.

Congratulations on your new bike! You are going to enjoy it.

Personally i like the M-530s better. Especially for a first time clipless rider. While they may be a tad heavier, they have more of a platform. This comes in super handy in many "oh shit" scenarios and in regular use. The 520s can flip over easily when trying to clip in, and especially getting started in a technical section or an uphill, that can be frustrating as hell. The outer platform of the 530s prevents them from rolling or flipping. Also if you, cant quite get your feet clipped in, at least you have something to stand on until you get a chance to clip in correctly. Also, when you just want to hop on your bike to go to the store, or test ride some new tweaks, in your regular shoes, you actually have a pedal and not a nubbin under your foot. Lastly, if you have weak shoes that dont have a stiff sole, you might feel a "hotspot" on your foot where the small 520 is. I had cheap flexy spd shoes and found my feet to be pretty sore after long descents.

The 520s are great but i definetely like the 530s way better for all around use. Espcially since they are under 40 bucks on amazon right now.

good luck!

Spend the extra $20 on a Kelty tent if only for their customer service. My gf, myself and our dog fit in a Grand Mesa 2 we got for $125 CDN on Amazon. It's 4lbs even and the design is smart, I have nothing but good things to say about it.

https://www.amazon.com/Kelty-Salida-Camping-Backpacking-Tent/dp/B00NFCFO0Q/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=grand+mesa+2&qid=1563807872&s=gateway&sr=8-2

There is the Salida 2, I believe the difference between it and the Grand Mesa 2 is that the door on the Mesa is by your head rather than the side, so you can slide out instead of having to crawl over your partner.

For car camping I have a cheap-o $40 Walmart 4-5 person tent that can fit a double air mattress, and a bunch of packs. It's whatever the equivalent to Ozark Trail was 7 or 8 years ago. Super simple design but it's been dry through rainstorms as long as you stake out the fly. We use it several times per year, it takes like 5 minutes to set up.

We wouldn't want to use the backpacking tent (or sleeping pads) when we don't have to, so it's worth it for us to carry around the extra tent and cheap $10 air mattress but YMMV.

For water filtering, check out sawyer squeeze. They also have a mini version, but I'd say the squeeze is worth the extra money & weight for increased flow rate and less clogging.

The klymit static v sleeping pad is on massdrop right now.

The brs 3000t stove is often recommended a super light canister stove.

Or if your just boiling water and not actually cooking meals on your stove then a lot of redditors love their jet boils.

Any of them are good. Knowing the model you had would be good.

My old recommendation would be anything in the 5600 line. There are many options, it isn't huge, and it fits well. That being said, for the last three months, I've been wearing the GW6900, and I love it. Little bigger than the 5600, but still very comfortable.

https://www.amazon.com/G-Shock-GW6900-1-Tough-Solar-Black/dp/B00284ADAI

You can't go wrong with any G-shock, but there are so many options that it might be best to look at their website to see what catches your eye.

Ok so if DC doesn't get a lot of snow, you might not need all these, but I went to all the trouble of typing it up so here you go.

Some tips I hope will help you: The most important parts of your body to keep warm are your head, hands and feet. Layer your torso all you want, but if those parts get cold, so will the rest of you. Get some of these for days when you might need to be outdoors longer than usual, and keep an extra set in a pocket in case of emergencies.

Spray waterproof Scotchgard (or something similar) on the outside of your coat, gloves, hat and boots. Even if they are “water resistant,” under the right conditions (sleet, heavy snow in temperatures at or just above freezing, or simply the melting of snow once you are indoors) these items can easily and quickly become waterlogged. This will also help prevent salt stains.

You should probably have a pair of actual rain boots (some folks call them galoshes) that come up to at least mid-shin and will still fit with thick, warm socks for days when it’s slushy but still cold.

Personally, I prefer a long coat that covers my knees because they get stiff and sore if they are cold, but that’s just me. You might only need a coat that covers your butt. I would definitely suggest making sure it’s at least pea coat length, if for no other reason than to avoid snow and wind.

A lot of people are going to suggest that you just build your own. It's pretty easy to do so out of a cat food tin or a soda/beer can. There's a ton of websites and YouTube videos with directions on how to do so, so a google search for instructions should easily yield results. Homemade alcohol stoves are also going to be lighter yet than any commercially produced models.

The only commercially produced brand of alcohol stove that I have any familiarity with is the Trangia Spirit Burner. They are pretty cheap (usually around $15) and while they are light, they are noticeably heavier than a soda can stove is. They are much more durable than most homemade models are, though.

The one thing that I like about the Trangia is that you can purchase it with a primer for it improves the stove's efficiency in cold weather. You could probably build one yourself to use with a homemade stove, too, though.

(Edited to add links.)

https://www.amazon.com/Kelty-Salida-Camping-Backpacking-Tent/dp/B00NFCFO0Q/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?keywords=kelty%2Bpagoda%2B2&qid=1565751951&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmr0&th=1
This is the one I have been using, not as big as my old 3, but the poles are perfect sized. In super hot, could use more mesh, perfect 3 season tent. Enough room for all my gear and vestibule for boots, and drybag.

Finally, something I can contribute to here. I recently bought Xiami M365 e-scooter (cost me 425€, here is Amazon link, not how I bought it). I think I have it for a month or two. I logged around 270 km so far. I use it from home to train station, then I use train to city I work in, and then from train station to work. Its something like 2.5 km in each city in each direction. Advantage is that it is relatively light and compact (12.5 kg and the handle folds). It goes up to 25 kmh, battery is specified as making 30 km if you are 75 kg person. It can only carry one person of up to 100 kg, but I believe that even heavier person can use it, especially if you change type of tires.

Now, my impressions, it is perfect for me. I can bring it both to my office, and to my apartment (elevator not working, still not too much hustle). I can bring charger with me anywhere to add some extra mileage from it. It can be stored in car trunk (I was able to put it in trunk of Opel Corsa D, rather small car), thou I would avoid this if it is too hot and sunny outside. It is on a cheaper side, so it does have some problems, but nothing too serious, especially if you are familiar with bikes (changing of tire and staff like that).

Also, now, my whole daily is electrified in a country that usually has 55% electricity generation from renewables, which is nice.

Video that I found to be fair review is this one.

Since I'm guessing you are from states, here are some conversions:

12.5 kg = 27.5 lbs

75 kg = 165 lbs

100 kg = 220 lbs

2.5 km = 1.5 mile

25 kmh = 15.5 mph

30 km = 18.5 miles

425 € = 480 $

If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.

I have a version of this wrench. Mine I got from Nashbar and it's Nashbar branded, but it's the same wrench. Its been a lifesaver, one of the best thing's I've bought tool wise.

https://www.amazon.com/Venzo-Bicycle-Torque-Wrench-Socket/dp/B00811WQT8

The Porta makes a good seat but emptying it is a nono. Use plastic bags and paper towels to create a virtual absorbant diaper. The end product will be about the same size as a diaper and is easily disposable with ur daily trash.

Having said that, the Porta potti is going to take up permenant space in your vehicle. It may be best to go with a handicap assist seat like this one. Or just go completely minimal with a space saving bucket that can also hold extra bags, tp, and paper towels while remaining completely innocuous.


Although, looking at it now, I don't feel comfortable with a permenant toilet seat in my rig (that I have to look at). Or anyone else for that matter. So it may be just as beneficial to go with a home depot 5gal bucket and possibly modify it with a pool noodle lol

I think , for emergencies, this is the way to go

No worries at all on the questions, i hope i can help.

​

>How much extra gear do you find yourself carrying for your little man?

Not all that much actually. Extra sleeping bag and pad, children's versions of all the normal first aid meds i carry, a little extra food, his blanket that he sleeps with, and a couple of books for bed-time stories.

>What are you guys doing for water?

Sawyer Squeeze water filter. That thing has been great. A side note that will probably not apply to you when taking a small child out: if you are going to be out in below freezing temps take special care not to let your filter freeze. When the water freezes and expands it will break the ceramic filter media and while water will still flow through it it will not necessarily be safe to drink.

> How did you prep him for the long days and potentially scary nights?

We've been on day hikes of varying lengths before and the nice thing about backpacking is its kind of self-limiting; you go as far in a day as your least capable team member then stop and set up camp. As far as scary nights i've found, for my son anyways, that as long as i'm relaxed and comfortable he will be too so it really wasn't an issue.

> What expectations do you have for your pace?

This first trip we did about 5 miles with no complaints at all. I'm planning a trip this fall and am expecting that we can make 10 miles a day. Again, though, if we get out there and find that this is too much we will just stop at the nearest site and set up camp rather than pushing on to the shelter.

> What do you expect your son to carry?

This first trip he was almost 6 years old and all he carried in his pack was his water bladder, a change of clothes, his toy binoculars, and his blanket. Probably came out to 2 or 3 pounds. Later this fall i'm hoping i can bring that up a little bit and let him carry some of the food. His little coleman backpack is very small and with as quickly as he's growing i'm not really ready to buy him a nice pack yet that will only last him a year or two.

​

Hopefully we'll see you and yours out there in a few years; happy trails!

2. Keep all of your valuables (electronics, passport, wallet, etc.) in an easy-to-remove bag. I use a small ulock and try to lock my frame to something and then run a small cable lock through the handles of panniers. My wheels have anti-theft bolts on them, so they're not easy to steal. Keep in mind that most theaves are opportunists and want something quick and easy--so don't make your bike quick and easy. For grocery stores: some stores will let you roll your bike into the entrance area or leave it leaning near the cash register.
   
   
3. Personally, I like a warm meal / coffee especially when the weather is wet. If you're on the fence, I'd suggest buying a Trangia alcohol stove ($20!) and you can always ditch it if you're not using it. I use it in conjunction with the Vargo Hexagon Wood Stove but you can get a smaller/lighter pot holder. The stove is light, runs silently and the fuel is cheap and easy to find.
   
   
4. This time of year is a good time to get apparel on sale. Check out brands like Pearl Izumi or the house-brand at Mountain Equipment Co-op (if you're Canadian.) For touring you can usually skip a proper jersey and instead do a merino t-shirt, you don't really need the pockets since you've got bags with you.

If you are camping in an area that has bears, you need to be prepared for bears.

This means hanging a good bear bag and having bear spray on you in a holster type carry.

This guy hangs the best bear bag I've ever seen and I use this style every time out now. Bears will climb a tree pretty quickly if you just hang your food from an easy branch. He hangs his in the middle of two trees where the bear will never be able to get to it. He also uses a [dry-sack](http://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Products-3-Pack-Ultimate-Sack/dp/B001AZNATC0 (example only) to hang his food to minimize the smell.

You DO NOT want to find a bear interested in your camp in the middle of the night. You should take every step to lower your scent footprint and to be prepared to run one off.

I just recently went on my first backpacking trip. It was just an overnight trip, but I used this: http://www.amazon.com/Esbit-Ultralight-Folding-Pocket-Tablets/dp/B001C1UGVO

It was the cheapest (10 dollars including enough fuel for a day or two), smallest stove I could find, it was rated well and I got free shipping. After using it, I was very happy with it. I used it to boil water for coffee, and I cooked hotdogs and chili with it as well.

I was literally just using it on the ground (and I only brought a small lantern and some glow-sticks with me for light. I was able to cook on it in the dark nonetheless. Super easy and effective.

If I decide to go on longer trips, I might get something bigger, but then again I might not. It's pretty awesome.

The only downside is that the fuel has a bad odor, and you have to wash your hands (or wear gloves) when handling it. Simple problem to fix though. Just don't sit downwind of it and keep your food covered if possible.

Honestly, get an M365 like 90% of us on here. It's a solid scooter, lightweight, foldable, and cheap. You can always upgrade, but it checks all the boxes for most of us. There are certainly faster scooters with better range. But for the price, I don't think it's worth it. I love how light the M365 is and you simply don't get additional range without additional weight/battery. If someone can point me to something that rivals the M365 at that pricepoint, I'm all ears.

Honestly, I'd say start riding, and the knowledge of common damage/ repairs will come through experience. This will also help on the customer service side of things because you will be able to relate to the customers. Sure, the LBS can train you on some more niche skills (such as installing a bottom bracket for bike build up), but 90% of the issues with bikes you will be able to see first hand (flat tire, poorly indexed gears, etc.), and how to resolve them, if you ride. As for tools, a good multi-tool (I use this one) will have the tools to be able to fix most problems, though the shop will have much better proper tools, which should be used if available.

Impressive answer, thank you. I agree that nothing is a forgone conclusion and the existing players have some advantages.

My understanding of the Kodak story is not as positive. More like this:

https://www.economist.com/node/21542796


In some ways I like other answers to the electric world with different form factors like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Electric-long-range-Fold-n-Carry-Ultra-Lightweight-electric/dp/B076KKX4BC/ref=lp_13280951_1_2_sspa?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1521006162&sr=1-2-spons&psc=1

or this:

https://www.gocartours.com/

I had shimano on both of my bikes. That's as far as I can go for recommending something. They both lasted without issue, and the shoes lasted thousands of miles as well. Shimano makes good stuff. I wouldn't spend more than like 50-60 bucks. Unless you're going for super light weight on a road bike.

[these are what I had on my mountain bike, and they were great, and would work for a commuter or road bike as well] (http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-149319-PD-M530-Mountain-Pedals/dp/B0052XXW32/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464887791&sr=8-1&keywords=Shimano+PD-M530+Trail+Mountain+Pedals)

Day One I'll have about 35 lbs (15.45 kg) of weight. This is my first time so there are probably several items in there I'll never take with me again, but I'd like to try 'em out once; I also have a shit sleeping bag that desperately needs upgraded. If you want specs, just ask and I'll happily share my spreadsheet!

Edit: The List

The Gear

• Jansport Katahdin 50L
  
• Northstar Tactical Operations Sleeping Bag
  
• Hennessy Explorer Deluxe w/ Hex Fly, Snakeskin, HH2O
  
• New Balance Hiking Boots
  
• Vibram Spyridons
  
• Playpus Big Zip Bladder, 3L
  
• Sawyer 3-Way Inline Water Filter
  
• Rain Suit
  
• Dr. Bronner's Peppermint Soap
  
• All Terrain Herbal Armor Bug Spray
  
• Wigwam Merino Wool Socks x2 pair
  
• GSI Outdoors Glacier Stainless Pot/Cup
  
• Outdoor Products Dry Sacks
  
• Energizer 3-LED Headlamp
  
• Lifeline 85-Piece First Aid Kit
  
• 100', 550lb Paracord
  
• Extra Rope
  
• Heavy Duty Trash Bag (as liner; 2 extra)
  
• Couple Books: The Tolkien Reader, J.R.R. Tolkien and Smith of Wootton Major and Farmer Giles of Ham, J.R.R. Tolkien
  
• Cell Phone
  
• Camera
  
• Flashlight
  
• Map
  
• Watertight, hard-shelled container (for electronics/map)
  
• Pocket Knife
  
• Fixed-Blade Knife
  
• Toilet Paper
  
• Stove & Fuel
  
• Hand Sanitizer
  
• Extra pair of underpants
  
• Extra shirt
  
• Several scattered lighters
  
• 2L of water (possibly less depending on availability of water)
  
• Plastic Water bottle (for mixes)
  
• Wash Cloth
  
  The Food
  
  
• Chocolate Chip and Coffee Biscotti (too delicious not to bring)
  
• Backpacker's Pantry, Beans and Rice
  
• Mountain House, Rice and Chicken
  
• Ramen Noodles
  
• Trail Mix
  
• Peanuts
  
• Country Time Lemonade Packets
  
• Snickers Bars
  
• Folgers Instant Coffee
  
• Chocolate Covered Raisins
  
• Tuna Packets
  
• Wraps
  
• Protein Bars
  
• Peanut Butter Crackers
  
• Gushers
  
• Mac & Cheese
  
• Summer Sausage
  
• Nutri-Grain Bars
  
• Hot Cocoa

The wiki has a great section on shoes n pedals.

Swapping the pedals out is pretty easy. Just be careful to not cross thread. The right and left pedals screw in opposite.

There are a couple of dual clip options in the wiki that have look on one side and spd on the other.

I personally use these and love them.
https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-149319-PD-M530-Mountain-Pedals/dp/B0052XXW32

Cat food can stove, denatured alcohol and ramen. Cost a fraction and provides sufficient calories. Add a few snickers in there for variation.


This is the best suggestion. Ramen can be eaten without cooking too. Throw in a few sauce packs from restaurants like soya, chili sauce, mayo, Vary up the Snickers with Tiger bars, granola bars, Cliff bars etc. A few packs of tuna and chicken in the foil packs. A few tins of Vienna sausage. 20-30 dollars should get you an awesome and compact 72 hour food kit. People tend to over think this.

Here is a better stove for 15 bucks ( I use 90% rubbing alcohol -- available at any pharmacy -- a lot for less than five dollars):

Trangia Spirit Burner

I think there are a couple of questions you should ask yourself first.

1. How do you plan to treat water? Sawyer Squeeze (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B1OSU4W/), Aquatabs (https://www.amazon.com/Aquatabs-AQT100-Water-Purification-Tablets/dp/B077737MBN), bleach, etc.?
   
2. How do you plan to carry that much water? Does your bag and gear accommodate the space and weight?
   If you are using the Sawyer Squeeze, you could use something like 3L CNOC bags (the thread on top matches the Squeeze, unlike other bags), and the 3L CNOC bag is 3.7oz each ($23 https://www.amazon.com/Cnoc-Outdoors-Vecto-Container-Orange/dp/B07F1BBWHC). Good lightweight construction. If you plan to use Aquatabs, Aquamira, or bleach, you could use something even more lightweight like the Platypus 2L bags at 1.3oz each ($9 https://www.amazon.com/Platypus-2-Liter-Ultralight-Collapsible-Bottle/dp/B000J2KEGY/). Those do not match the Squeeze threads, but if you're not using Squeeze anyway it wouldn't matter. Both the CNOC and Platypus bags roll down to nothing when empty, and are easy to travel with. You could carry 2 of the CNOC or Platypus bags + 2 1L Smartwater bottles (again, the threading on these matches Sawyer Squeeze) for a total of 6-8oz, without using that much space, and without costing that much money. Just remember that water itself is pretty heavy, which is why most people try to camel up and drink a lot at water stops, and then not have to carry as much all day.

I picked up this Topeak Alien II but it doesn't have pliers or a knife but I do have an small leatherman which does. I figured a 26-function would cover most of things that could come up but I'm interested in what you dig up.

Edit: You're awesome. Thanks, man!

For 29$, you could get a Sawyer Squeeze water filter and save ~13oz

For ~150$ you could get a Hammock Gear Burrow Econ 30 to replace your sleeping bag and save ~24oz. A lot of people recommend the wide quilts, as Hammock Gear standards are designed for hammock sleeping.

A lot of people here will recommend not bringing a second pair of clothes. Just hike in the same clothes every day. Could save ~25oz.

If you install Gaia GPS on your phone, you could drop the delorme and save ~7oz. Not sure if its an InReach that you're using to keep in touch with people when you don't have service. Another personal call.

*Edit: Fixed weight savings for quilt.

I've tried those, but have had...less-than desirable results. Apparently I lack the sort of coordination needed to use one without peeing all over myself. 😆

So I did the next best thing and created my very own Whiz Palace! It's essentially a large bucket with a toilet seat on top; I secure a small trash bag inside and fill with cedar shavings (like you'd put in a small pet cage), to mitigate any noise or smell. The toilet is then placed inside a pop-up shower tent and voila! I also include toilet paper and other accouterments. I change the bag and cedar daily. It's not pretty, but it beats the heck out of stumbling to a porta-potty at 5am.

That's definitely a steal. Have heard good things about these Tubus racks.

However, anyone have experience with an Ibera PakRak:

http://www.amazon.com/Ibera-Bicycle-Touring-IB-RA4-Frame-mounted/dp/B002T5H8MW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1458744660&sr=8-4&keywords=tubus+rack

Looks like a good deal. I'm looking for a rear rack that can accept panniers.

Right now, I have this Topeak Explorer rack on my Schwinn Varsity:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FIE3WI?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01

My bike is a commuter but I am planning on taking it on some short weekend / week-long tours this summer, hopefully going for a month long tour at the tail end of summer.

Thanks for any insight, everyone! Cheers!

Hey sorry for the very late reply /u/gbchk! I have been really busy with a lot of stuff these last 2 weeks, and hence haven't gotten the chance to properly reply to you.

With regards to a good dry lube, I mentioned in my build log that a Dry PTFE lube should be good for the ALPS switch. I personally used the WD-40 PTFE lube, though any other Dry PTFE lube should work as well. As you can see from the build log, I referenced a [youtube comment] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=msOYzgb1IT4) that mentioned another dry lube that you might be able to try, the Finish Line dry film PTFE lube: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002IDZXRM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

Also, I have updated my main comment with the link to the album which showcases how I lubed my ALPS. Hopefully this will serve you well as a guide.

Sorry again for the late reply, and have fun with whatever project you may have now!

If you plan on commuting year round, I would consider keeping the Giant. Maybe look into getting new tires that are narrower. Kenda makes some 26x1.5" 100 PSI tires that are popular that the shop I worked at. The shifting is probably better than that Schwinn and should have a lower end gearing for any hills or heavier loads. Tires and tubes should be well under $100 if not $80.

From my experience, Crank Brothers pedals are great, other parts or accessories not so much. This Topeak tool is awesome and has everything you should need including tire levers.

Lump it with the Giant for a while until you save and find a bike that is within your price range and that fits you and your style of riding well.

You can still do GA and have flushable toilets, but it depends where you camp. There’s a “Jon condo” between the amp and meadow stages at the heart of the venue, for when you’re enjoying the shows. If you (arrive early enough to) camp near the bath house by Spirit Lake or the Grand Hall you can have access to flushing toilets, but there will be lines at peak times.

I fest and camp with my 8 year old daughter and we have one of these for just in case. Dudes piss innawoods but that’s not always possible for womenfolk, so we travel with one of these. #1 only.

/u/SpartanUp247 , I'm breaking this up so it's not a mega post.

Insofar as other as other supplies go... well, I could write on that for way longer than I'm going to tonight. I'll try to give a short essential list though.

• Flashlights and ample batteries. Preferably including some headlamps and lantern style lights. Candles as well.
  
  
• An emergency radio, preferably with a hand crank + solar rechargeable battery.
  
  
• Some FRS radio's in the event that cell phones die or coverage is sparse.
  
  
• Propane tanks and the ability to use them for cooking. Usually that will mean a portable burner and high pressure hose. There are other cooking options out there as well, such as Sterno, so grab whatever your situation/funding allows for.
  
  
• Appropriate weather gear. That means cold weather sleeping bags for winter and methods to cope with heat like an Arctic Tie. Maybe a propane heater as well.
  
  
• Don't forget sanitation. A 5 gallon toilet bucket is a good investment. Then stock up on thick garbage bags, baking soda/cat litter, and a mega sized bottle of hand sanitizer.
  
  
• Make sure you have the basics of first aid supplies covered. Enough stuff to treat and wrap wounds, protect blisters, protect from the sun, things like that.
  
  
• Have whatever tools you think you might need for whatever you're prepping for. Things like a wrench to turn off the gas in your house that lives near the gas meter. For people in hurricane areas, an axe to chop through a roof to evade rising waters. Definitely multiple fire extinguishers/fire blankets. Things of that nature.
  
  
• And of course, a gun and training on how to use it is always a smart call.
  
  --------------------------------
  
  Bug out bags are cool and a good idea/place to get started, but realistically if you are forced to sincerely grab that bag and run out of the door with nothing else because things are just that screwed, you are likely pretty hosed. Chances are you'll have time to pack the car in most situations, so the best way to go is to plan on bugging in first and foremost. No point in turning yourself into a refugee if you don't need to. If you're still wanting to start with a bugout bag... see the next post for my recommendation for a cheap startup kit.

This is a tough bike. I have one that's about forty years old. It doesn't take much care.

Besides tires and tubes, you also need new brake pads. Cheap but very important.

In order of increasing cost/benefit:

Clean the drive train (all the gears and the chain) with rags and a degreaser. Old toothbrushes and dish brushes can help with this. You want to remove all the black, caked grease and clean the components to the bare metal. Once they are clean, let them dry and lubricate them.

Have a LBS replace the brake and shifter cables and housings. You probably have the original ones. Replacing these greatly reduces the risk of snapping a cable or two on the road, something that can render the bike unrideable. It will also make shifting and braking much smoother.

If your LBS tells you your chain is worn out, they are probably right. This is also a cheap fix. It will make shifting smoother and protect your drive train from excessive wear. It also lowers the risk of a broken chain on the road, which again makes the bike unrideable.

Enjoy!

• [Crank Brothers multi tool] (http://www.amazon.com/Crank-Brothers-Bicycle-19-Function-Silver/dp/B0012Q41HY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418363910&sr=8-1&keywords=crank+brothers+multi+tool)
  
  
• [Topeak saddlebag] (http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Aero-Wedge-Buckle-Medium/dp/B000FIAU8O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418364745&sr=8-1&keywords=topeak+saddle+bag)
  
  
• [Cygolite Metro 400 Headlight] (http://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Metro-400-Rechargeable-Headlight/dp/B00LXTOT6I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418364255&sr=8-1&keywords=cygolite+metro+400)
  
  
• [Cygolite Hotshot Taillight] (http://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Hotshot-2-Watt-Rechargeable-Taillight/dp/B005DVA57Y/ref=pd_bxgy_sg_text_y)
  
  
• [CatEye Wireless Bike Computer] (http://www.amazon.com/CatEye-Wireless-Bicycle-Computer-CC-VT220W/dp/B004RE783W/ref=sr_1_16?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1418364327&sr=1-16&keywords=cateye)
  
  
• [Finish Line Chain Lube] (http://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Bicycle-4-Ounce-Squeeze/dp/B002IDZXRM/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting)
  
  
• [Genuine Innovations CO2 Inflator] (http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Innovations-G2628-Ultraflate-Inflator/dp/B002AGI1QW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420015344&sr=8-1&keywords=innovations+co2+inflator)
  
  If you're looking to up your riding game, everything listed above will save you from any trouble you have on the road. Cycling computer is always neat to have too!
  
  Cygolite Metro 400 and the Hotshot are brilliant. The lights definitely pack a strong punch. I'll tell you right now, unless the lighting in your town sucks ass or you go off road riding, the metro 400 is a great light and you don't really need to go much higher than that.
  

Then go with the MSR Whisperlite that /u/gcranston recommends. However, it doesn't use ISO-Butane as suggested. It uses white gas. It is very easy to get a hold of here in the US. I have had one for almost 20 years and it still works wonderfully.

You have to purchase the bottle separately, but they aren't that expensive. Just make sure that you use a windscreen. It improves the cooking time significantly. You can easily make one.

I've used the Esbit (http://amzn.com/B001C1UGVO) stoves before too and they work. They don't work super fast, but if you are cooking something for one, you can't really get any cheaper. If you are only cooking for yourself or just heating things up, these little stoves work well. Every time I have used one, I have had people tell me that it will never work, how silly I look with them and how cheap I am, but they are small and cheap. Again, you need a windscreen for these to work.

Yeah, it is like someone should invent an inexpensive, durable waterproof bag that floats in water and can be tied down.

This is obviously not a personal attack, I get persnickety about this stuff because I spent a large chunk of my childhood camping, hiking and canoing out in the pines. Nothing takes you out of the "I am alone with nature" feeling quicker than an empty case of beers or floating plastic chip bags. If they were dumped on purpose or through negligence makes no difference to me.

It only takes a tiny bit of care and preparation to avoid mucking up a natural treasure for others (like erogenous_war_zone) who wish to enjoy its beauty.

In hopes of encouraging people to do what you said, just a little push to make it even easier... $6 for 10 pairs, prime eligible! http://www.amazon.com/HotHands-Hand-Warmers-Pair-Value/dp/B00D7H9LIA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416406520&sr=8-1&keywords=hand+warmers

Thanks for the awesome idea<3

This is the best advice here. As for a pump, if you're going to go with a regular pump this one is what seemed to come up the most when I searched this sub and it's served me pretty well. It does kinda rattle a bit when riding, though. Down the line you'll probably want to get a regular floor pump, too, something like this maybe.

I'd also agree that gloves aren't necessary. Also agree with two cages and two water bottles. I started with just one bottle but quickly realized that I need two. Any old cage will do, and Camelbak Podium bottles are a popular choice. I got the clear one so I can tell at a glance how much water I have left.

whenever my friend snowboards she brings these with her. it'll warm you up for a bit!! good luck surviving! brace yourself!

Here are a couple options with brands that have a bit better of a reputation. Ultimately it’s your choice, but I would recommend going for a company that has a bit more of a following:

Kelty Salida 2:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NFCFO0Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PhXyCb0V6QC8Y


Kelty Acadia 2:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JBSFI1M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RiXyCbT3QEMH0


Alps Mountaineering Lynx 1 (also has a 2 person available):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BMKD1DU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pdXyCb85G6NR9


I don’t personally own these tents, but I know the quality should be there and the price point is in line with what you were thinking. Hope this helps ✌🏻

I'm guessing you're in the US since you're referencing FFR. What's your current scooter? I don't normally join circlejerks, but the Xiaomi M365 is a pretty good value and it's below your budget at $379 right now on Amazon. Pneumatic tires will provide better grip and ride quality than solid tires, and if you keep the pressure up high enough (depends on your weight, but around 50 PSI), flats are not that big of an issue. The stem wobble is also better in recently produced units, and if it ever gets bad you can buy cheap rubber dampers to tighten it back up.

> Fancy Feast stove

That's what Andrew Skurka uses. He says that he has tried various other builds, but none of them saved him enough fuel (vs the FF stove) to be worth the bother.

Personally, I like my Trangia, but I'm not an ultra-lighter. It's still pretty damn light, though, and very strong, since it's made of brass.

Wow. Yea I can see that.

Someone should write a book; a street survival nutrition guide. It's not easy to buy the kind of food that works best in those situations from regular grocery stores.

Edit: we've been fly fishing out in the middle of nowhere for so long I can cook a surprising amount of stuff on this little stove the size of a pack of cigarettes, called an Esbit stove. Once you have the little stove, moreover, which costs about $10, the solid fuel pellets are really cheap. I could write an Esbit stove healthy field cooking cookbook.

I came here to post a similar question. I hope you don't mind if I piggyback with my questions since I am looking for very similar specs.

I've been looking at the featherstone, TNH, and the Kelty Salida 2-person tents. I've gone though a lot of the reviews on amazon's site, but I'm hoping reddit can point me in the best direction of these (or if there's another that is superior).

Got these ones. Definitely nothing fancy, but they are getting the job done. Had to put some rubber spacers in to make it fit the rack, but that was really simple. Super secure front to back and came with some nice tie-downs. Wobbles a tiny bit side-to-side with the flex of the rack when you hit bumps, but no problems so far.

All in all, two thumbs up.

http://www.amazon.com/TMS-KAYAK-RK-J-1BOX-Universal-Carrier/dp/B003V57NUQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405359817&sr=8-1&keywords=kayak+mount#productDetails

I have a similar pump, and I've been very happy with it. I really like the flexible hose; it makes the pump easier to use. Depending on what kind of bike you have, you might want the high pressure one (120 psi "pressure drive" vs. 90 psi "alloy drive").

I also have this multitool, which I've also been happy with, except the large hex wrench that fits over the smaller one isn't as secure as I think it should be (it's never fallen off though).

Until you acclimate, try putting some [toe warmers] (https://www.amazon.com/HotHands-Toe-Warmers-Odorless-Activated/dp/B0007ZF4PE) on top of your toes to keep you warm. CVS, Walgreens, Costco, REI, Scheels - they all carry some brand variation of the one I linked.

Also +1 for one pair of wool socks (I don't double layers on my feet until single digits.)

and +1 for a good pair of Sorels. My husband's are going on 20 years old and just as good as new. Mine are almost 10 years old and I love them.

Rather than standard tire levers, I prefer to use a speed lever for changing my tubes/tires. Though I think I want to pick up one of their speedier levers, because that knuckle protection looks pretty sweet.

For a pump, I'm a huge fan of the Topeak Road Morph G. Though on one of my bikes I forgo the pump and just ride with CO2 and a chuck since I flat so rarely and it fit is my seat bag (though I still always carry two tubes).

And as others have said I try to never go for a ride without my multi-tool an ID some cash, a bank or credit card, and my phone.

I don't use a folding J-style rack but I do use J-style racks for my kayaks (2 of them) and they barely fit on the X cross bars. They attach nice and snug.

As for securing the kayaks down, I use the quick straps that came with my racks and make sure to tie them off to prevent slippage.

The farthest I've traveled with this setup is about an hour of highway driving (75 mph).

Edit: The racks I have: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003V57NUQ/ref=sxl1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467757196&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65

This kelty is great if you are backpacking. If you are car camping and weight isn’t a factor most name brand tent will do.

Like other have said the tent protects you from the elements it doesn’t keep you warm. A warm sleeping bag and pad is what will keep you warm. I usually do 2-4 very cold (0°F to 10°F) trips a year in a hammock and tarp.

Be prepared to be told to not wear a watch during basic but I'd get a decent solar/atomic G-Shock: http://www.amazon.com/Casio-GW6900-1-G-Shock-Atomic-Digital/dp/B00284ADAI they're indestructible and really are perfect watches for military use. Just don't be that weirdo who shows up with a huge Suunto.

Last week, I bought the XT Trail PD-M785, which is about half the price ($80 vs $161) of the XTR and only like 10 grams heavier (398 vs 408) and I absolutely adore them. I've been riding clipless for a couple years now and I've used Time's and Crank Brothers mostly and these Shimano's are in a whole different league.

The platform is big enough to give you something to stand on if you want to clip out going down some techy stuff or if you need to do an uphill start. The tension adjust is also a really nice feature so that you can leave them loose when you're just starting out and then tighten the engagement as needed. Those pedals and my dropping seatpost are absolutely the best upgrades I've done to my bike recently.

EDIT: If you're looking for something even more reasonably priced, there are the Shimano PD-M530, which is the same style of pedal, just $40. I'm looking into a pair of these for my girlfriend right now. I haven't ridden them personally, but people say really good things about them.

I've been using this one for quite a few years, and I love it! Really awesome small solution with great replacement parts for the whole unit. It's another pump that a lot of people swear by (including myself, but I am fallible like the rest)
http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Road-Morph-Bike-Gauge/dp/B000FI6YOS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395611696&sr=8-1&keywords=topeak+road+morph

If you're looking for something a little bigger with a more modern design that also has solar and atomic, then I would recommend the GW6900-1. I'm pretty certain this is the best price I've ever seen it at: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00284ADAI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Honestly, you have a lot of possibilities.
If the 5600s are too small for you (that would be my choice), you can go with these:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0084EF9BO/ref=pd_aw_sims_1?pi=SL500_SR86%2C115&refRID=1MQ54A8QEEYDJFMD614W
Really nice and legible.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00791YWWA/ref=pd_aw_sims_4?pi=SL500_SR86%2C115&refRID=1MQ54A8QEEYDJFMD614W
All black.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00284ADAI/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1414039523&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
This or any other of the 6900 line.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BU6TXEC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1414039600&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40
Personally, I would go with this. It has a vibrating alarm. Nice size and solid. (Also available in black and other colors.)


Any of these should be a good for your needs.

Honestly it takes more time to patch a tube than it does to install a new one, it's the same amount of work. I'd highly caution you that you should learn some basic bicycle maintenance before taking off on a weekend trip because that list isn't overkill...it's bare minimum. It takes one time being stranded to really wish you had learned to replace the simple little things like a spoke or chain link on your bike.

Everything I mentioned can be fixed with a simple pocket tool like THIS

It's not the distance - you're right, 100 miles isn't much in a weekend. It's just generally making the decision to put yourself at risk for being stranded. Loaded touring will put stress and weight on bike parts that normal city riding won't.

But again, if you think it's overkill just go do whatever. Eventually on a trip you'll break something and be far enough out that you'll learn to fix your bike when you get back. I'm trying to help you safely enjoy this trip, if you want to go about it your way go for it....there's just no reason to take the risks you're about to take.

I use hand warmers to remove and prevent due. Don't wipe the due off, you will only make it worse. I use an ace bandage to hold a hand warmer like these on. They will clear and prevent due https://www.amazon.com/HotHands-Hand-Warmers-Pair-Value/dp/B00D7H9LIA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1473213251&sr=8-3&keywords=hand+warmer

I have one of these mil surplus sets, the stand works perfectly as a windscreen & pot holder, I use it with a trangia burner and this snow peak cookset. I bought an extra silicon bowl and a few cups and can stuff 2 bowls and 4 cups in the cookset & it still fits in the nylon mesh bag it comes with.

For the trangia stove, it boils water quite fast with this setup, you can adjust the flame, and it has a screw on lid so you can save unused fuel, well worth the $15.

They look exactly like this product on amazon (which you get 3 different sizes included):

http://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Products-3-Pack-Ultimate-Sack/dp/B001AZNATC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1342450734&sr=8-1&keywords=dry+bag

I actually own this set myself, they work great! :)

On Amazon.com the Most helpful Customer Comment for the Topeak Joe Blow Sport II Floor Pump at the top of the page has only two stars:

>186 of 191 people found the following review helpful

>cheapo materials

>By iiigoiii on June 17, 2011

>there's a couple of problems with these pumps, as other reviewers have pointed out for this pump and the original sport.

>- the head can be difficult to get a seal with, especially on the presta side. it may take several tries before being able to get air to flow,

>- the dual head is large, making it difficult to get onto smaller wheels with closer spokes,

>- the hose material is a cheap plastic, not rubber - it quickly starts to crack wherever it's bent (near the outlet and where it's stored over the handle) and soon blows out.

>their support company, todson, refuses to warranty the hose even though it's a material defect. instead of paying them a third to half the cost of a new pump, get 3/16" fuel line from your local auto parts store. fits perfectly, will last a lifetime, and only costs about two bucks!

This review, and the 186 people who agree with it, gives me cause for concern, particularly with the small Brompton wheels, hence why I am on here looking for input. :-)

Then you'll lose the lubricant again, unfortunately :) There are dry lubricants that can help, while avoiding attracting dust/grit.

There is a bike lube that I like for stuff like this, Finish Line Dry Lubricant. It goes on as a clear liquid, and dries dry, which is really nice. It's handy for a range of things around the house, it doesn't leave a mess like oil, and it doesn't attract grit.

This is the liquid version, there is also an aerosol can type:
Finish Line Dry Bicycle Chain Lube with Teflon - 4oz Squeeze Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002IDZXRM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vivxDbKQY3FYN

A lot of hand pumps are tough to get skinny tire pressures, but I've had really good luck with the Road Morph. The nice little hose lets you put the thing on the ground and pump against the ground like a little floor pump. 110psi no problem.

Got this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00811WQT8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 from amazon. It's a bit cloudy today, I will try to upload better photos tommorow!

Thanks for the help!!

I use these

They are NOT waterproof and are cheap for a reason, but I've been happy with them as a way to organize and save space.

On Amazon US, this seems to be the best deal. I own it and it works pretty fine. It's also a must if you ever want to build a frame up from scratch.

I use toe warmers inside my boots on particularly cold sessions. https://www.amazon.com/HotHands-Toe-Warmers-Odorless-Activated/dp/B0007ZF4PE

I know a few people who love their boot gloves. https://www.northerniceanddance.com/boot-gloves-lights-boot-covers-p-928.html

You might be surprised what a difference something like simple leg warmers can make.

If you can find zip off or snap off warmup pants, it’s an extra layer you can shed when you get warm or add when you get chilly. I wouldn’t wanna wear them the whole time, but they’re nice for beginning and end of the session

I know some might disagree with me, but I bought this: https://www.amazon.com/VENZO-Bicycle-Torque-Wrench-Socket/dp/B00811WQT8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493642589&sr=8-1&keywords=venzo+torque

It seems to do a great job. I am not sure of its accuracy, but even if it is slightly off I am okay with that. If I torque something to 5nm, and it is actually 4 or 6 I think thats okay. My main concern before getting it was that I was torquing things that should be 5nm to 15nm because of not having a way to gauge how hard I was pushing. I think it only "clicks" in one direction so it is not perfect for torquing lets say my BB on the drive side that threads opposite. But for daily use it seems to be great and not super expensive. But if you have the disposable income to spend, get the park tools version.

No information included about your desired price range so I'll just throw out a few suggestions. G-Shock is a solid choice - my favorite is the GW6900 as it is 5 buttons (dedicated light button), solar powered, and sets itself every night to the atomic clock. A slimmer option is the GWM-5610 with the same features except for the dedicated light button. These also have non-atomic non-solar versions for about half the price DW6900 and DW5600 which both come in around $45. These are classic models and won't draw unwanted attention.

If you're looking for something analog, while I hate to recommend another Casio, the MDV-106 dive watch is really hard to beat for 40-50 bucks. Water resistant to 200 meters, real functioning diver's timing bezel, applied indices, rubber strap... it's highly regarded at this price point. Good luck!

I have one of these little wedge bags that goes under my seat, like this one:
http://www.rei.com/product/722362/topeak-micro-wedge-seat-pack

In it, I keep one of these little tools: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0037N32VG

It has a lot of things you might need for a quick repair, including a chain-breaker.

I also keep a 3-set of tire levers and the same little patches that mnorri recommends (I think), like these: http://www.rei.com/product/742967/slime-skabs-pre-glued-patch-kit

I also have a couple zipties because you never know when you might need one.

My commute is only 3 miles, so I don't carry a tube, but I probably should consider it for longer rides.

And I had one of these on my last bike. I never had to use it, but it was small and fitted on the back side of my seat tube, just in front of the tire, so it didn't get in the way of anything: http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Update-Survival-Holding-Clamp/dp/B004ZDL2O6

For my general riding, I actually have a trunk bag on my rack and keep things like a first aid kit, eyeglass case and cleaner, sun block, spare batteries (for my lights), and now that the weather's turning, a rain jacket, and such. But the trunk bag slides of easily so I can take it in stores with me. The little wedge bag just stays on my bike.

Edit: I also carry a small pump, mounted on my downtube: http://www.rei.com/product/784569/topeak-peak-master-blaster-dx-ii-mini-pump

Clearly I'm not one of those riders trying to have the lightest ride possible.

Depende sa temperature. Kung naglalaro lang sa 0 C, yes. Otherwise, consider something yung may insulation.

However kung di ka naman masyado sa labas (and kung may car kayo), okay na siguro yun, just buy warm socks like yung Heat Holders or yung mga foot warmers which can provide heat up to 8 hours. Ang problem kasi with insulated boots is that it can be really warm pag nasa loob ka ng building, papawisan talaga paa mo, especially yung mga Sorel which are made for -20 C and below.

Though Timbs and Dr. Marten aren't really good at gripping slippery surfaces. For that, just buy cleats.

Source: I live in the Great White North.

Naproxen sodium, weed, masturbation. Also heat water bottles/heated pads/ect. Oh, LPT: if you live in a cold place, you can probably get these and put em near your uterus area (I stuffed em down the front of my leggings lmao) for days where you need relief fast and you're at work or out and can't do the aforementioned remedies. I was a bit desperate one day, and these brought me sweet, sweet relief.

• what to wear: I assume that you'd only commute in fair weather. Anything that you can ride comfortably. Rain gear is a whole different discussion depending on the season.
  
• what to pack for work/commute: Learn to fix flat. Spare tube, Topeak Hexus II. Topeak Mini Morph pump.
  
• how to pack... backpack? : No backpack. Look for DeTour or Timbktu panniers. Etsy is another source to get a decent lookin' pannier. Ortlieb is boring but the gold standard, however.
  
• should I avoid music/headphones : This is somewhat debatable. I have a Be Headware Bluetooh speaker on my helment. I don't listen to music but podcast, and keep the volume to the level which is like someone riding next to me is talking to me. The goal is to not block or suppress the sound around me. Also, I can pick up the phone call easier.
  
• what to look out for: Idiots
  
• what to be cautious of: Idiots
  
• anything else you can think of!:
  
  --
  
  > BTW on Google Maps, it looks like it's going to be about a 35 minute ride to work
  
  It's usually overestimates time, so you can probably go faster.
  

G-Shock 100%. There are a couple military ones with blacked out reverse dials, however they can be more difficult to see in certain light conditions than the normal dials. Here are a few models that military personnel use and some others:

GD-120

DW6900BB-1

DW6900-1V: This one is similar to a very popular G-shock used by a lot of US military, the DW-6600. I don't think they make it anymore though, but this is pretty close.

GW6900-1

GD100-1BCR

GD-120CM

GD-400

GD350-1B: This one has a yellowish tint to the digits so it's one of the easier reverse dials to read.

Mudman

Rangeman

DW5600MS-1CR: For this one there is a really cool mod you can do for about $35 more to make it look really tactial and military.

Edit Added some stuff

Here is from the budget backpacker:

Stove: esbit is 6.3 oz with 6 fuel cubes (weight includes fuel) for <$11.00: http://www.amazon.com/Esbit-Ultralight-Folding-Pocket-Tablets/dp/B001C1UGVO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462135828&sr=8-1&keywords=esbit+stove

Pot: GSI stainless weighs 5 oz for <$10.50 http://www.amazon.com/GSI-Outdoors-Glacier-Stainless-Bottle/dp/B001LF3IB6/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1453225574&sr=8-6&keywords=backpacking+pot

Utensil: I use a standard aluminum fork and spoon because they weigh less than an ounce each, but you can also look at this:

Toaks titanium spork weighs 0.6 oz for <$9.00 http://www.amazon.com/TOAKS-SLV-01-Titanium-Spork/dp/B009AO19MK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462136083&sr=8-1&keywords=toaks+titanium+spork

Once again, not 100% ultralight, but pretty light weight and a good starting place for a beginner.

I didn't get this exact brand but you should look at some dry sacks like these: https://smile.amazon.com/Outdoor-Products-3-Pack-Ultimate-Sack/dp/B001AZNATC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1491536484&sr=8-3&keywords=dry+bags


Great way to separate your dirty and clean clothes, keep everything dry and keep smells from spreading throughout your pack.

Thank you for this giveaway and all the support on this subreddit and the forums.

I’d like the Skilhunt H03 if I’m selected, thanks.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HGHIAD8

thanks! these are the cheapest J Racks on Amazon and they work pretty good!

What kind of pumps did you have trouble with? Stem mounted ones I presume?

If you're still interested in a pump, I'd recommend you get one with a hose. I have a Topeak Road Morph G and it works great. It functions like a floor pump so you can use your body weight when pumping.

I recommend the GWM-5610.

I wear it every day.

-Positive LCD screen with bold numbers is very easy to read in all lighting settings including close to darkness

-Auto illumination feature - turn your wrist to look at your watch and it will light up for you automatically if the solar panel senses darkness (can be turned off)

-Multiband 6 automatically sets the time by radio signal once a day so your watch is accurate down to the second at all times

-Solar powered rechargeable battery

-Low profile

The only things I do not like about it is that it is a little small on my wrist, the buttons are small, and I wish it displayed the current time in stopwatch and timer modes.

https://www.amazon.com/Casio-G-Shock-GWM5610-1-Tough-Solar/dp/B007RWZHXO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=gw5610&qid=1557195028&s=gateway&sr=8-1

You can also go with a GWM-6900. Generally the same feature set with a light button on the front of the watch. Bigger buttons , much larger and bulkier than the 5610.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00284ADAI/ref=cts_wa_3_vtp?ie=UTF8&pi=SL110&dpPl=1&dpID=51WYe0C0%2BqL

https://www.amazon.com/Skilhunt-Flashlight-Waterproof-Headlight-FloodLight/dp/B01HGHIAD8/

Thanks Para! Good luck all!

Yes and no. Denatured alcohol from the paint section is your best bet. Rubbing alcohol has too much water in it usually, unless you find some 99%. It will work, but not as well. A quart of denatured is $5. Rubbing alcohol is about twice that price.

Heet costs more and there's little difference. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oOLoLx5lF6U

Here's the one I use. (fixed, thanks breadpad) You can put it out and it screws closed to save the fuel. In practice, this sounds better than it works. Just don't overfill, and burn it till it's dry. Comes with a simmer ring. I fooled around with the can ones. My friend's monster can stove is nice. Soda can stoves don't hold enough fuel.

First thought: seems a lot like the Topeak Explorer series of bike racks. The QuickLock system works great; I have a bag that uses it. Hopefully this succeeds, so Topeak releases more QuickLock-compatible stuff and also brings costs down.

Well we PC guys sometimes have to just make do with what we have on hand while we save up money for what we need, but, if you really want to get efficient I'd suggest one of these maybe on some sort of custom wooden platform. Desk height and all that.

I’m a runner. I really like the skilhunt h03. It’s an 18650 right angle light. It’s pretty small and has a lot of mode spacing.

It’s comfortable and it does NOT bounce around on your head with each stride.

Skilhunt H03 LED Headlamp 18650 EDC Flashlight Max 1200 LED Lumens Waterproof Cree LED Headlight for Outdoor Sports Camping Light FloodLight(Neutral Light) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HGHIAD8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zXc0DbC0X74TX

> I naively thought that tighter was always better, it isn't.

Yep, about 5-8 NM is good. Seatposts are hollow tubes, and those crush. It's worth getting a torque wrench just so you can get used to torque ratings. Amazon has a nice bike specific one for $60:

http://www.amazon.com/VENZO-Bicycle-Torque-Wrench-Socket/dp/B00811WQT8

$100 tent is hard to come by, especially a backpacking size one, especially one that will be used daily for over a month.

I would check REI garage, classifieds/craigslist, /r/geartrade, ebay, etc. Otherwise your money won't go far.

This is about all I can recommend, but I'm not necessarily recommending it.. Kind of the lesser of all evils

https://www.amazon.com/Kelty-Salida-2-People-Grey/dp/B00NFCFO0Q

I have a Kelty tent and it's fine, but the stitching has come out in places, the fabric can rip more easily than a nicer tent, and it isn't my favorite thing to set up. The price can hardly be beat for a new tent though.

what should you know about saddle bags? Buy a topeak MTX quicktrack rack and the expandable EXP bag This system is too amazing to describe. Small bag for short trips, unfolds into full pannier setup. Securely fastening it to your bike in under 10 seconds is a dream compared to conventional veclro/bungee systems. Both of these together will be over your $80 budget for your helmet/lock/bag but it's well worth it. I'll never use another bag/rack again. The rack is also lighter than the cheaper rack I was using before.

99% sure they’re the same model, which was also available on Amazon for $500 a while back before they sold out

Edit: looks like they’re back on Amazon for $600 now:

Xiaomi Mi Electric Scooter, 18.6 Miles Long-range Battery, Up to 15.5 MPH, Easy Fold-n-Carry Design, Ultra-Lightweight Adult Electric Scooter (US Version with Warranty) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076KKX4BC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LroYBb3A01TBS

I ended up buying one of the models that Bird uses (M365 here) and have been in love with it. I use it as my main source of transportation now, and it gets me anywhere I need to go in the city.

I think with time the Public opinion on these will change as they're so much cheaper and energy efficient than cars for small trips.

Check out the Sawyer Squeeze. I had a lifestraw at first, but found the Sawyer Squeeze to be infinitely more useful. You can attach it to smartwater bottles and filter as you go. It is better in both day to day use and emergencies.

Purchases so far:

• Esbit stove. Haven't had a chance to use it yet.
  
  
• Solar 5 Battery/Charger First use last weekend. Really love it so far.
  
  
• LMF "Spork"
  
  On the to-buy list, I'm hoping to get into ultralight + hammock camping for the summer:
  
  
• Exos 48 Pack
  
  
• Hennessy Hammock Expedition
  
  Also do you guys have any recommendations for a warm-weather sleeping bag? I live in GA so past April, the lows only get into the 60-70 range on a "cold" night. I'm almost leaning towards Hammock + just a warm camp blanket. Any thoughts?

Yeah a good rack and panniers will go a long way. I picked one of these up on sale for $20 bucks, and matched it with one of the MTX bags. Super convenient for commuting, since you barely notice the weight when it's over your back wheel.

Recommend checking out the vintage section at bikeforums. Some tricks:

An oxalic acid bath for a day or so works well for removing rust from steel (but don't use it on aluminum). Flitz polish, which I used for a lot, requires a lot of "elbow grease" but gets a good shine on things – including paint (make sure the decals are below the clearcoat!), but it does strip the satin anodizing off of aluminum. WD-40 removes a lot of dried-on crud that mere soap and water fail to solvate. If a brake bolt is rusted into the frame, drip WD-40 onto it, use a block of wood as a buffer and smash it with a hammer. If the quill stem is stuck/rusted, unscrew the stem bolt a few mm, use a buffer and smash it with a hammer. - this will loosen the expander wedge. Turning the seatpost (keep the saddle attached) in one constant direction while pulling up is the best way to gradually remove it if it's stuck - twisting it back and forth will gouge it in a particularly ugly fashion. Um... get an adjustable (aka "crescent") wrench, I don't think a single nut on this bike worked with my normal wrenches.

That's all I can think of at the moment. Basic bike stuff also applies, like greasing the threads of every bolt and (almost) every metal-metal contact point (the cranks are supposed to be a dry press fit, though!), and lubing all the pivots & springs & whatnot. I like synthetic SuperLube with PTFE for grease, and a dry chain lube with Teflon for lubricant.

It was my first time driving with the kayaks loaded and strapped down so I took it easy. About 30 miles at 60mph. When I got off the freeway I checked how secure the straps were and everything held nicely.

I bought these kayak racks.

replace the shovel with this trowel to save weight:
http://www.rei.com/product/799009/gsi-outdoors-cathole-sanitation-trowel

carrying the hatchet is a bit much too I think. and then you are looking for a hatchet? That's a lot of hardware to carry. I'd replace it with one of these to cover some concerns, but I usually find ways around cutting wood:
http://www.amazon.com/ProForce-Commando-Wire-Ideal-Survival/dp/B0018VCJTA

A nice headlamp will probably run you about $35-40, but they are worth it.

I think I paid 9.99 at walmart for these, important for sealing odors to keep away critters:
http://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Products-3-Pack-Ultimate-Sack/dp/B001AZNATC

I know the pros use hand warmers during tournaments. Though, that's probably not the most cost efficient way to keep your hands warm playing every day throughout the winter lol

I use this one and it has been great:

http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Blow-Sport-Floor-Pump/dp/B002B7LTBY/ref=sr_1_2/182-7405441-5301903?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1419998243&sr=1-2

My last pump was a POS and didn't have a built in gauge. I'm much happier with this one.

Gloves/mittens plus hand warmers. You can buy them at any sporting goods store or on amazon I'm sure. They last a long time. They also make ones for feet and toes. Here's a link!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00D7H9LIA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421242514&sr=1-1

A good U-lock is kind of the gold standard for security. Chain locks and cable locks have to be super hefty for me to trust them. Also, learn to lock it properly. Wheels can also be stolen. Getting skewers that are not quick-release isn't foolproof but it does add some security.

You likely won't need the socket wrench combo, unless your wheels are bolted on with hex nuts. Otherwise, a patch kit and a bike multitool will cover 95% of your on-the-road needs, plus a pump. It's not the smallest option but I'm a big fan of the topeak road morph. I also carry tire levers and a normal (non-combo set) 5mm allen wrench, since it's the size I use most.

One of the tricks to winter riding is to ride through the shoulder season so you can gradually work your way down into lower temperatures and figure out your layering. Much easier than going from summer riding to commuting at 5 below zero.

Foot warmers are awesome since they have an adhesive on one side, allowing it to stay in place in your boot/glove/wherever. Also, what winter wish list is complete without a multicolored assortment of fuzzy socks!

Brace yourself.

• Tubes: anything you find will work
  
• Patch kit: I like Einstein's patch kit because the patches are small, thin, and have feathered edges. Rema patches work too, but they're larger. I prefer small patches because the vast majority of tube failures are small punctures and the patch is already a zillion times larger than the hole. I dislike sticker patches and I don't trust them.
  
• Bike pump: The Lezyne pressure drive is small and dependable. Get the carbon fiber one if you want to save grams. I don't use a CO2 inflater because I think they are wasteful and of limited utility.
  
• Seat post bag: Really, anything will work
  
• Water bottle: Whatever you have lying around.
  
• Multitool: I like the Topeak Hexus II. It is compact, and has most of the tools you'll need for on-the-road fixes, including a chain tool.
  
• Pliers: There is NOTHING on your bike that you should use pliers on. Use the proper tools for the job.
  
• Tire levers: Any will work, but my favorites are the Soma steel core.
  
• Rear light: Anything will do. I like the Planet Bike Superflash.
  
• Front light: This totally depends on how often you commute in the dark, and what your environment is like. If you're riding on well-lit city streets, your needs will differ a lot from someone riding on rural roads or unlit trails. I use a SON generator hub with the Lumotec IQ Cyo and the combination is awesome. But not everyone needs that kind of setup.

Nah, it was quite the opposite. I previously used some of the spray on lube, Tri-Flow, too much of it, and it attracted a bunch of grit that required a good degreasing to get rid of. I found it difficult to put the appropriate amount of lube on the chain with the aerosol spray can. After this eventful ride I used Brake Parts Cleaner to degrease the chain and components and the soapy water and a host to get the excess out. Once it was clean and dry I used Finish Line bike lube as directed and it's much better now.

There are a ton of channels. But instead of directing you to one specific channel, I'm going to recommend you just run a search on youtube for the specific task you want to do. Like:

Installing handlebars on a bike.

or

Replacing a bike seat.

For tools, I recommend just buying the Alien II multi-tool. It's affordable and has every tool you'll need for basic bike maintenance.

thanks for doing another great giveaway! https://www.amazon.com/Skilhunt-Flashlight-Waterproof-Headlight-FloodLight/dp/B01HGHIAD8/

I like these a bit better for this. You can build one out of a soda can too. My thought here is that you can run it on bottles of yellow HEET (fuel line defroster) which you can get at any gas station, hardware store or grocery store. For someone living on the streets it's a bit easier to get a hold of than a canister of fuel for a stove.

1. Let your Mavic sit out in the cold (without a battery) for a few minutes (at least 5) before you pop in a warm battery and take off.
   
   This helps reduce condensation frost from forming in your barometer. The barometer is the most sensitive instrument in your Mavic to moisture.
   
   
2. Slap Adhesive toe warmers on the back of your phone or tablet to extend its battery life in the cold. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0007ZF4PE/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1485609578&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=Little+Hotties+Adhesive+Toe+Warmers
   
   
3. The batteries warm themselves up in flight, but in extreme cold (-5 or colder) the same adhesive toe warmers could be used on the Mavic Battery. They don't add much weight. Disclaimer: I haven't tested this on the Mavic, but we've used this trick for years on DIY built drones with "naked lipos" (a lipo without a plastic case).

A hand warmer attached to the lens barrel should help with keeping any condensation on the glass at bay.

http://www.amazon.com/HotHands-Hand-Warmers-Pair-Value/dp/B00D7H9LIA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395087929&sr=8-1&keywords=hand+warmers

I always wanted a good angle light, and this fits the price perfectly when you include shipping.

I ride a road bike and use the Topeak Road Morph G. It is compatible with presta and schrader valves and has a built-in psi gauge. It's a bit heavy, but I love it!

Dual-sided pedals with toe cages on one side usually have toothy flats or SPD on the other. SPD pedals will have small jaws that face and resemble each other--see the pedal at this link for an example. It's hard to recommend shoes (as fit and feel is a matter of subjective experience) so I recommend visiting your LBS and trying some on, or ordering a few different types from a seller who offers free return shipping.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0052XXW32/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_JUNiDbKB8SBJG

After consulting with this subreddit I went with a topeak rear rack and a wald wire basket. I secured the basket to the rack with four Nite Ize gear ties and it feels really secure.

I was looking for a cheaper option than buying all of the matching baskets and panniers that go with the topeak rear rack. I have a limited budget to spend on new bike gear each paycheck, so i'm slowly buying new items.

Today was the first ride without my backpack on my back. It was definitely an interesting feeling. I felt super light, but the back of the bike was weighed down.

Any comments or suggestions?

My wife and I started with a Trangia alcohol stove. It is great because you can store unused alcohol in the screw lid container, and it's very robust. The "simmer ring" isn't all that useful-except as a good way to snuff out your stove. The cons are it is heavier than other alcohol stoves.

Generally, alcohol stoves take longer to boil water than a canister stove. There is also the added risk of open fuel that is quite flammable. I've seen many a fireball happen from people with more than questionable alcohol stoves.

Ultimately we changed to a MicroRocket canister stove. The convenience of the canister stove just outweighed any additional weight (honestly, after a 1000 miles of hiking, the tiny difference in weight really doesn't matter). It cooked so much faster, was way quicker to set up, and we were not nearly as leery about cooking in our vestibule on some crappy days. At the end of long days all I want is to shovel as much food into my mouth as fast as possible.

Availability of canisters is abundant. Canister stoves are extremely popular on the trail and the outfitters know that. Practically all of the outfitters carry canisters. Finding denatured alcohol is quite easy as well. Either outfitters give it away, sell it by the ounce, or there is a local store to get a bottle of HEET (yellow bottle).

You will have to refuel more frequently with an alcohol stove. Probably on the order of once a week you will be looking for resupply. With a canister it's more like once a month (8oz.). We went ~500 miles on one canister, cooking 1 meal a day for 2 people. Others I know completed the entire trail in 4-5 canisters.

Some people have had canisters mail-dropped in, because they found cheap deals on the canisters. They are supposed to be packaged accordingly to USPS hazardous material standards, but I have seen people receive them in their regular mail drops. Do so at your own risk and all that.

In my opinion, I would recommend a canister stove. If I were to thru hike again I would take my canister stove, hands down.

I have used the universal kayak racks for 30 bucks on Amazon and I have also just laid it across the bar. Both work fine. The OB has flat bars though and the bought racks have a round bracket but just tightening them down really made it secure. I have not used them since they got replaced (a tree ripped them off during the hurricanes) but even when they were used, they held up to some pretty rigorous kayak hauling.


Here's the link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003V57NUQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6UcKAb1JFHDBC

I have a 2 small drysacks, which I can just stuff things into, which is pretty nice. and a specific case for my phone or ipod

Edit: Also, I have a raincover for my backpack. keeps the water out. and you dont have to worry about anyone unzipping your backpack in a busy place.

• http://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Products-3-Pack-Ultimate-Sack/dp/B001AZNATC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1369243924&sr=8-1&keywords=drysack
  
• http://www.amazon.com/Osprey-UL-Raincover-Titanium-Medium/dp/B000MNLDP6/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1369243977&sr=1-1&keywords=osprey+rain+cover

Not sure if this is the one you’re looking for but when it was in stock I think it was like $600?

Xiaomi Mi Electric Scooter, 18.6 Miles Long-Range Battery, Up to 15.5 MPH, Easy Fold-n-Carry Design, Ultra-Lightweight Adult Electric Scooter (US Version with Warranty) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B076KKX4BC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fssVCbX0HVC6V

http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-60102538-Hexus-II-Multi-tool/dp/B0037N32VG/ref=sr_1_5?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1422413167&sr=1-5
Definitely the best one I have used. It's got a built in chain tool, spoke wrenches, and tire levers that pop out of the handle. It even has a allen key in the tire lever to tighten the bolts on each end that hold the whole multi tool together.

So, I have that same pump but I've never used it on any tire that already had air, it's always been as part of a flat repair on the road. It might actually be normal, my floor pump doesn't register anything until I give it enough air pressure to get the presta valve to open.

I might suggest that you get a floor pump for your regular tire maintenance. Your arms will thank you. I've been very happy with my Topeak Joe Blow 2.

I bike year round in the prairies in Canada. I've tried different footwear and sock combos and nothing worked. I just have bad circulation I guess. The only thing that works for me is winter boots with these.

There are battery powered heated insoles that I will hopefully get for Christmas. That's the real solution I think.

Gloves don't cut it when it gets cold. I bought some good mitts for the cold days (my idea of cold is -25C/-13F). I haven't had problems with my hands getting cold.

I'm getting really excited to try my newish Farley in the snow. None yet though.

http://imgur.com/a/9UNfK

You do, but if you have a bike specific multi-tool it probably has one. Basically it's a little pin-pusher that you use to drive out the pin that holds the links together. It's the arm that is on the far left of this pic. It holds the chain while you turn a screw and drive the pin out. If you don't have a bike tool like this, I would recommend getting one. Cheap, portable, and useful.

Once the chain is the right length, you use a quick link to make it back into a circle.
The quick link serves in place of one "wide" length and joins 2 "narrow" sections together.

Topeak Alien II - Just got it a few weeks ago and it feels pretty sturdy and well made plus I like the fact that it breaks jn two plus comes with a carrying pouch. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000FIE4AE/

Here are a couple options. Alps Mountaineering 2P or the Kelty Salida 2P I have a featherlight FL version of the Seirra Designs Lightning 2P and its an awesome tent but the budget version.. maybe not so much at 4.5 lbs. For a little more money you can get nice weights and features.

Shaving 20 minutes off that time should be no problem, you only need to average 4 more miles and hour. Stick with it. I started commuting to work 6 miles each way about 3 weeks ago and it's awesome. Here's some stuff that'll make your ride more pleasant, if your bike doesn't already have these:

• $28 for a rack.
  
• $25 for panniers to go on the rack.
  
• Fenders to keep you drier
  
  Also, I'll vouch that cycling is possible in any weather, if you dress for it. I've gone mountain biking in December in Denver, and not just once.
  
  
  Also also - don't think of it as taking 20 more minutes, think of it as an hour workout that only takes you 20 minutes :)

If you have a $500 budget, you might want to go ahead and get a roof rack. Then you can get a couple of J racks. The bars might come in hand for other stuff (car top carrier, skis, etc) as well.

Have you tried a water filter? I use my Sawyer for water pretty much anywhere that isn't the town in which I live. They're small and pretty cheap.

For cooking issues in a real crisis, I made one of these burns very little wood, small sticks/twigs/woodchips. I made mine out of an old computer case, but any sturdy sheet metal will do. I also have a trangia which runs on alcohol. And a dutch oven which can be used over a campfire or buried with coals. For home heat, I have built a rocket mass heater before, they work great and stay warm long after the fire is out, but I rent now, so I have a small woodstove I can quickly hook up to the chimney if need be. Not that you asked about any of that =]

Your fingers are what you really want to be worried about.

My suggestion would be to have some hand warmers in your sporran, and possibly have a pair of fingerless gloves on, if it's within uniform regulation in your band.

By tunic, do you mean a doublet? Because those are quite warm. When you're playing your body warms you up in your core, so mostly you just need to be worried about your extremities - feet and hands mainly. Thermal socks can help under your hose.

Also if it's below freezing I'd avoid playing pipes entirely.

> if motorists, cyclists, & scooter people knew & obeyed the laws of their own conveyance & respected those of the others', we'd be safe & content.

Can I have some of what you're on? Belgium might be run by sane people, but Australia certainly isn't, and I won't mention the current US administration, as transport is a state issue.

Obedience to laws only makes sense when the laws do.

The rules are frequently written by people who are only interested in pandering to the whims of large voting groups. And if that happens to result in the deaths of an "out" group, those large voting groups are perfectly OK with that. The laws in Australia, for example, with its shitty the bicycle infrastructure, will kill you if you follow the rules. This is why they are broken all the time. The infrastructure and to a smaller degree good social norms, are vastly more important.

Personally, I'm not a fan of electric scooters and I really loathe these sorry excuses for transport. I have come to the conclusion that I hate them not because they are particularly dangerous, but because they are just so amazingly uncool. Like someone wearing a a bright pink jacket and green velvet pants. It's not harming me, but, oh god, please, just... stop....

Pretty sure this is a portable camp stove. You would maybe soak that pad in alcohol and set a pot on top. Something similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/Esbit-Ultralight-Folding-Pocket-Tablets/dp/B001C1UGVO/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1539965937&sr=8-14&keywords=camp+stove+folding

I got this rack off of amazon, and used some old panniers that my dad had.

As for fenders, just go to your LBS and they will set you up. I honestly don't know what kind of fenders that I have, but hey, they work.

My commute is pretty short, a little over 2 miles each way, and I have never had any issues with it.

Thanks so much for all of the feedback!

I ended up purchasing VENZO Bicycle Bike Torque Wrench Allen Key Tool Socket Set and BIKEHAND Bike Bicycle Repair Tool Kit with the addition of cable cutters.

Last night I watched this guy assemble a bike which allowed me to see which tools were needed:

How to Build a Bike Series

I will keep everyone posted on my progress. All the necessary parts and tools should be delivered by March, 20th! Stay tuned.

Have you tried toe warmers, by any chance?

In the future, if you're in the market for some lined boots, give these a look. I have a pair, and easily they're my warmest boots. They frequently go on sale, too.

Mi Electric Scooter, 18.6 miles long-range battery, Up to 15.5 mph, Easy Fold-n-Carry Design, Ultra-Lightweight adult electric scooter (US Version with Warranty) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076KKX4BC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jnpVAb29RB8XZ

If you live in California they rent them for 10 an hour up in Venice Beach.

I'm happy with it

The Rangeman is really nice but it's also very large and thick so it can interfere a lot with daily tasks. Slimmer profile watches are better for not getting in the way. I would check out the 5600 or 6900 series watches:

http://www.amazon.com/Casio-GWM5610-1-G-Shock-Solar-Watch/dp/B007RWZHXO/ref=swr_wa_1_ses

http://www.amazon.com/Casio-GW6900-1-G-Shock-Tough-Digital/dp/B00284ADAI

There's also a really cool military concept theme product line that has low visuals and red back lights:

http://www.amazon.com/Casio-DW5600MS-1CR-G-Force-Military-Concept/dp/B001QFYDEC

http://www.amazon.com/Casio-G-Shock-Military-Concept-DW6900MS-1CR/dp/B001QFYDEM

Here's a few things I've bought off Amazon that I've been really happy with:

Minus33 Merino Wool Day Hiker Sock

Magnesium Fire Starter

Bahco 396-LAP Laplander Folding Saw

Sawyer Products Mini Water Filtration System

Morakniv Companion Fixed Blade Outdoor Knife with Carbon Steel Blade

Nalgene Translucent Wide Mouth Bottle With Blue Lid

Outdoor Products 3-Pack Ultimate Dry Sack

Rayovac Sportsman 22 Lumen 1AAA Headlight

Adventure Medical Kits Adventure First Aid 2.0

Suunto M-3 D/L Compass