(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best wrenches

Like /u/jrm2191 said, Park Tool make some... comprehensive tool sets. Those prices are enough to make me choke, though. Your son's riding a ~$400 bike - I don't know how I would wrap my head around buying an $800 tool set, or even a $300 one.

But the tool sets are a good way to think about what tools you should buy. I'd get a basic tool set, fill in gaps, and upgrade selectively. What I'd do, in no particular order, would look like...

• cheap tool set ($40) (total $40)
  
• torque wrench ($50) (total $90)
  
• chain cleaning tool ($10) (total $100)
  
• cable cutting tool ($35) (total $135)
  
• maybe chain pliers? ($10) (total $145)
  
  At this point I would start thinking about upgrading the tools that your son will use all the time. The thing that stands out for me is hex tools. He might use Torx screws, but he'll definitely use metric hex tools
  
  
• some nice metric hex tools ($15) (total $160)
  
• some torx equivalents ($11) (total $171)
  
  Then probably nice meaty tire levers to make replacing tires and tubes easier
  
  
• tire levers ($9) (total $180)
  
  If you were looking to spend $300 or that range, then you'll notice you're way under that target. Feel free to start adding on some random nice things, like a portable multi-tool, which will pay off if he has an issue while out on a ride.
  
  
• Portable multi-tool ($25) (total $210)
  
  I'm running out of things that aren't "consumable" (like brake cables, housing, etc...), so for my last recommendation, nitrile work gloves! (they'll make cleanup a breeze)
  
  
• work gloves ($20) (total $230)
  
  There are tons of other things you could get (a bike stand, for instance) but at this point I'm getting a bit out of control. and there are tools I assume you have (e.g. a good screwdriver), but at some point I need to stop.
  
  And obviously feel free to mix and match whatever components you can afford/feel comfortable spending that much money on. One thing that might help would be to talk with him about what kind of work he does on his bike. He might be in desperate need of hex tools, but not treating himself to nice hex wrenches. That could be your quick, easy, cheap answer. Or similarly he might be nervously tightening bolts without a torque wrench, even in places that call for very precise amounts of torque. Again, easy answer regarding what to prioritize.
  
  Best of luck
  
  edit: totals didn't add up right, sorry!

Sure, here goes, but its up to you to figure out what is what:

1. Pagnol M1 jacket —
   This jacket was from the first run of jackets. The quality is great, and has improved since I got mine (my buddy got one from the next production run). Pockets for armor, good for 3 season riding (with some layers) Plus my tablet fits in the back protector pocket.
   
   
2. Stylemartin Boots — They look good and provide good protection. I can wear them all day. Except the laces they come with always give out on the shifter side (at least for me) so that's been replaced with paracord.
   
   
3. Simpson Street Bandit Helmet —
   Snell & Dot rated, good airflow and visibility. Installing a sena headset onto this was a breeze. Currently covered in bugs.
   
   
4. Sena 10C —
   The camera is pretty shitty but it's better than no camera. I try to use it as a dashcam. The build quality of the device is not the greatest as one of the clips on the device has broken off and I contacted customer support with no response whatsoever. Audio quality is good though. They are releasing a new device, the Sena 10C Evo, that looks like it solves some of the issues with the 10C.
   
   
5. Earplugs —
   These are awesome and cheap. They live in the pill container on my keys. So much better than foam earplugs.
   
   
6. Keysmart — Fuck jingly & pointy keys. A usb & multitool also lives on this guy.
   
   
7. Rev'it Dirt 2 Gloves — Good airflow, not much wrist protection. They are gloves but I have an extra long left middle finger or something, cause that finger always gives out first.
   
   
8. Cruz Tool Roll — I actually have the non BMW one, but need to add the torx tools to this. I also carry an extra tool set that isn't pictured. I recommend this toolkit for everyone. It's tiny and extremely robust, but hard to find.
   
   
9. External Battery USB — has a really bright light and can charge my things forever. Did a tour of Sri Lanka and charged this instead of finding outlets and adapters. The light even has a flashing and SOS mode.
   
   
10. Slime air compressor — Haven't really needed it yet but it's there.

Built one last week:

You don't need anything but what the printer comes with. However, there are things that make it much easier:

• 2.5, 2.0, 1.5mm ball-end hex (Allen) screwdrivers for most of the screws. I have a set of Wihas, and they're awesome. You'll want a dedicated 2.5mm for your printer.
  
• 5.5mm hex nut driver for the nylock nuts (again, Wiha makes awesome tools)
  
• Small side-cutting snips for zip ties
  
• Small screw clamp or large pliers for seating captive nuts
  
• Extremely well-lit work area, headlamp, or portable light. When you get to the electronics steps, I don't think there is an orientation where the printer doesn't cast shadows into the enclosure.
  
  Once printing, there are some things you'll want:
  
  
• SD card reader (printer takes full-size cards)
  
• Extra SD cards (so you can slice and prep your next print while your other card is in the printer)
  
• Filament a little more exciting than the included silver. I recommend Hatchbox from Amazon. Everything but their Red seems to print amazing with the included "Generic PLA" profile in Slic3r PE.
  
  Some things I messed up:
  
  
• Use the online instructions
  
• The online instructions have comments at the end of each section--which are easily visible--and after each step, which requires a click to show. Read both before starting any section. Re-read those for each step before that step.
  
• Read the entire step of instructions all the way through before beginning
  
• Don't use a ball-end hex (Allen) wrench for the extruder gear set screws. The sockets aren't deep enough for a ball-end to tighten. It will feel tight, but not be tight, and you will get extrusion issues.
  
• When you finish up the hot end, all your wires need to be extremely tight to the assembly and not sticking out--especially to the left or right. The printer calibrates by "feel" and if there is any resistance caused by wires at the end of your X travel, the self-test won't pass.
  
• Seriously, just ignore the feet until it's passed a self-test. Then, make your third print a set of these: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2796596
  
• Once you pass a self-test and have a successful first print, flash the newest firmware. It has working filament detection and some other nice features.
  
  Honestly, it's going to be a long process. I suggest you plan on breaking it up over a few days if you can resist the urge to plow through. Take a 30-40 minute break after each section at least.
  
  You're also going to get more and more unsure as the process progresses. Have faith in the instructions, and comfort yourself that the printer won't do anything until a self-check is passed at the end. If you take a bit of time and have a little patience, your first print is going to feel amazing.

Additional Notes:

I hope this is the right subreddit. Putting this first because it is the important part. I am looking for a sort of project car but one for someone that has no mechanic experience. I have an engineering degree, but have never worked with automotives. My current car is good enough to last at least til december so I am looking for a car that I can work on until then and eventually have it become my daily car. I want this to be a learning experience so by the end of it all I will be somewhat efficent at basic mechanic work as well as tuning, performance upgrades, etc. I have never owned a manual car but desire this so that I learn how to drive stick as well as they seem to have the most viability when talking about upgrades and working on them. I plan on using 3k USD on the inital purchase but if I find something for less then the remainder of the 3k will go straight back into the car being purchased. I also plan on spending between 300-600 USD a month on parts to gradually upgrade performance and eventually apperance. The idea is putting roughly 6-7k into a car and make it a learning experience instead of just purchasing something I wont want to work on. I also have a mechanic that can look at the car during the initial purchase but any links that will help with identifying problems especially for specific cars will be appreciated.


Can you do Minor/major work on your own vehicle:

I just purchased a the following as starter mechanics tools

• Craftsman 230-Piece Mechanics toolset
  
  
• TEKTON Universal Joint Set
  
  
• Neiko 1/2 Inch drive premium Breaker Bar
  
  
• Kobalt 5-piece pliers set
  
  
• Pro-Lift F-767 Grey Low Profile Floor Jack - 2 Ton Capacity
  
  
• Torin T43002 Jack Stands: 3 Ton Lift Capacity
  
  And also a Ball Pein Hammer and Rubber Mallet
  
  
  If you have any recommendations other than what I purchased, I can still return any of these items and purchase others. Any other items I might need let me know. I plan on getting more tools as I need them.
  
  
  
  Location: USA, Texas, Rio Grande Valley Area
  
  Price range: Max 3000 USD for inital purchase
  
  New or used: Used
  
  
  Must haves: Easy to work on; Cost-Performance Efficent aftermarket parts; Ability to Upgrade
  
  
  Intended use: Project car for a couple months; Eventually Daily Use
  
  
  Vehicles you've already considered:
  
  
  
• 2000 Honda Civic EX D16Y8 Engine
  
  
• 1992 Corolla Toyota
  
  
• 1989 Honda civic ef sedan w/D15Z1 off 92-93 civic vx
  
  
• 1999 Honda Civic Coupe 1.6 vtec
  
  
• 1991 Honda Civic Hatchback
  
  
• 1997 vtec Hoonda Civic
  
  
• 1995 Honda Civic
  
  
• Civic Ex D19Y8
  
  
• 2000 Honda Civic Vtec 1.6
  
  
• 1984 vw rabbit gti
  
  
• 1999 Ecclipse
  
  
• 2000 Ranger
  
  
• 2000 Eclipse
  
  
• 1990 Mustang foxbody 5.0
  
  
• 1997 Mitsubishi Mirage
  
  
• 03 Mits Eclipse GTS Spyder
  
  
• CAMARO Z28
  
  
  I am open to suggestions but am more fond of light cars with better mpg
  
  
• Local Craigslist
  
  
• Local Craigslist 2
  
  Is this your 1st vehicle: No, currently have a 99 Toyota Corolla LE with 287k miles purchased at 170k and I put on the rest. I just had regular oil changes and minor things fized like sparkplugs. It had problem with the starter 6 months ago but banging on it made it work with no problems since then. No aftermarket parts and only problems currently is the evap cannister that I havent fixed and paint restoration as the clearcoat is gone aa I was ignorant on washing and waxing regularly as I live in a hot climate. It also has some rust on the roof and around the doors starting the develope. The corolla is okay, but being an automatic I assume there isnt much performance upgrades available. I also have the ability to purchase a 2005 Ford Escape XLT that works fine and just had a new cpu, tires and air compressor installed and has no current problems besides being Ford red in color ha
  
  
  
  Any help, opinions are greatly appreciated. If you would like to mentor me during this process as well, it would be cool to have someone in which I could ask question and get definite answers as no one in my immediate family or friends are car buffs.
  

As someone working through this but a few years ahead of you, I'll pass along the list of stuff I've bought and/or wish to buy...

Hand Tools

1. You say you have screwdrivers, but ifs worthwhile to have a full complement of them. You might consider getting a hand tool set like this one. Also, diagonals. Can't stress that enough. Eventually, you might upgrade a lot of these, but it'll get you started.
   
   
2. Ratcheting wrenches, along these lines. Conventional wrenches are functional, but these are much more so.
   
   
3. Ratcheting hex key set. In fact, this one looks good. If you have any Ikea furniture in your future, these will be worth their weight in guld.
   
   
4. Maybe a vise. That particular vice is mid-priced, but you can find well-reviewed vises at just about any price point.
   
   
5. A good range of sand paper grits: 80, 100, 120, 150, 180. You might also pick up a sanding sponge.
   
   Power Tools
   
   
6. A Dremel
   
   
7. Maybe an electric circular saw or a jigsaw. I really don't know which I'd prioritize, but you should probably have at least one of them.
   
   
8. If there's money left over in your budget, I'd suggest a random orbit sander.
   
   
9. A drill press
   
   Also, there are fluids to consider
   
   
10. Simple Green
    
    
11. Penetrating oil
    
    
12. Wood Glue
    
    
13. Mineral Spirits
    
    
14. Linseed Oil
    
    Of these, I'd focus on the hand tools, fluids, and the Dremel. You can always ask someone to buy you a saw for Christmas. If you have these things on hand, there probably won't be a job come along that you can't handle at some basic level. I'm assuming you don't need yard grooming tools, because that's an entirely different list.

Craftsman is junk; Husky is decent; Snap On is overpriced.

I re-tooled last summer from my old Williams set. Here's what I wound up with:

-Snap On GF80: 3/8" drive ratchet, got it off ebay for $50. I probably wouldn't buy again, but it is very nice.

-Pittsburgh Pro extendable 1/2" drive and flex-head 1/4" ratchets: Less than $20 each, and they are 90% as good as the Snap On. I would probably buy the 3/8" instead of the Snap On, if I had to do it over again.

-Pittsburgh Pro 1/2" drive impact sockets: These boys have taken some abuse at this point, and other than the etching having been stripped off of a couple (see abuse above), they are still in great shape. $25 for shallow, $32 for deep, Metric or SAE.

-GearWrench 3/8" drive impact sockets: $60 for a pretty complete (8mm-19mm + 21mm, 5/16"-3/4") set, and they are very thin-walled so you don't really need chrome.

-Pittsburgh Pro 3/8" chrome (shallow only): $9/set for 12-point sockets, which is the only reason I got them.

-Pittsburgh Pro 1/4" chrome sockets, shallow and deep: Overpriced, really, but I got the color-coordinated ones which are pretty cool. I might go for a cheaper set if I had to do it again. $8-9/set.

-GearWrench Long Pattern Wrench Set: I got the 22-piece Metric set (6mm-32mm with some skips) for $97; I haven't bothered to get the SAE set, I just have a handful of Pittsburgh SAE wrenches on a wrench ring.

And a big rally box to put it all in. I bet you could get all of it for under $500 if you use coupons at Harbor Freight and shop around for the GearWrench stuff.

-------------------------------------------------------------

I also got a DeWalt cased set to keep in my trunk:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-1-4-in-x-3-8-in-Drive-Polished-Chrome-Mechanics-Tool-Set-200-Piece-DWMT75000/206510555

But I had to add some wrenches (it has 10mm, 11mm, 13mm and 14mm; wtf?!) to my trunk bag to make it "complete," and even then it has some oddness to it (3/8" drive starts at 14mm, so you'd better not have any really tight 12mm bolts...) so it might not be what you are looking for, but they make a few different sets.

----------------------------------------------------

Other things I considered:

https://www.amazon.com/Williams-50614-2-Inch-Socket-146-Piece/dp/B00HR1Q5F4

$320 for a complete Williams socket set, but the wrenches are about the same...

---------

This might be the "bang for the buck" winner, simply for the completeness of the socket sets:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYZ2IJ5

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDO6L90

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OZJN3PQ

$270 ($180 for 1/2", $88 for 1/4" and 3/8") for a staggeringly complete set (10mm-32mm in 1/2" drive, shallow and deep, with no skips!) and then $42/set for the wrenches, 8mm-22mm.

---------

https://www.amazon.com/KD-Tools-KDT-80942-239-Piece/dp/B00OL2XFLO

GearWrench socket, wrench and allen key set, $210 for a whole bunch of tools, although they aren't the high-tooth-count ratchets.

--------

https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/hand-tool-sets/301-pc-mechanics-tool-set-63464.html

Then there's this thing. It is actually quite well reviewed, and surprisingly complete on the socket side, if a little short on wrenches. It's usually on sale for $160.

---------

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0056E11QW

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BT0AYG0

...and then there's the dream: If I could get away with having this stripped-down of a set... $600 for a very nice, but fairly bare-bones set. No deep-well, no 3/8" drive at all (hello, super-tight 12mm bolts!), and only great big long extensions... if you never need to get into really tight spaces, maybe. The 3/8" drive set is another $260 on top of this, and still doesn't have short extensions or deep-well sockets.

I agree, I have the 17 and the 19; definitely an essential road tool for quick on the fly stuff, but not so good for the actual "building" side of things.

To the OP, you may already have a set of allen wrenches, but I would suggest getting something like the Bondus T-Handle Balldrivers to really torque things down.

FYI, Pedros had a huge cash-and-carry warehouse sale a few years ago when they restructured. If you are patient, you can still find great deals on new-in-box Pedros tools through various resellers. I picked up a Vise-whip for $20 from a flipper on Amazon. While Park seems to be the LBS favorite, Pedros still offers a great product for the price.

If you have about $60 you could just buy them and have some tools that will serve you well as a renter and then you could help out your friends (and maybe get free beers or food off them).

I think you mean a stud finder.

https://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/

It's less than ten bucks.

An adjustable wrench is about the same price.

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-23002-6-Inch-Adjustable-Wrench/dp/B00FFUPS98/

For a cordless rechargeable you're talking about $40 for this one.

https://www.amazon.com/Cordless-Variable-Position-Masterworks-MW316/dp/B07CR1GPBQ/


I know you said borrow, but if you're renting it's good to have some basic tools for stuff like this and it's an investment to be honest. If you honestly can't get anyone to help, I already have the stud finder (metal detector), and wrench. It would be an excuse for me to finally get a drill. Let me know if nothing else works out.

Here are several of my favorite special tools made by Ridgid

Amazon This tool is really handy for faucets and drains.

$30 on amazon

Amazon Every one needs a few extra 6 in 1's laying around, may as well get a good one.

$12 on amazon

Amazon This two part wrench is perfect for water stops.

$30 on Amazon

Amazon This is the bees knees for cutting the tubular plastic used for traps and waste lines under sinks and lavs.

$20 on Amazon

You can probably get all of that and be just over the $100 limit with taxes and shipping. I've used all of these in the field and now sell them since i moved to the other side of the parts counter, they make good stuff. Do a Ridgid Tool search on Amazon so you can see if any of there more expensive tools would make sense. Like if he does gas work with copper, they have great flairing tools.

The Jeep KL is great!

https://streamable.com/660c3

But that case could be reworked.

Replace the shovel with this: heavy duty shovel

Leave one of those "tow only straps" in there and replace the other with 2 of these 2"x30' recovery strap or a 20' and a 30'

Add one or two of these: soft shackles

One of these in there too. 4-Ton come along

Move the flashlight and the knife into the jeep, seriously, that needs to be close to you to be helpful.

If you have any questions about offroad recovery please feel free to pm me.

Most importantly Enjoy the great outdoors!

If you're not hurting for money, I would recommend buying a set of coilovers instead of springs. You can adjust the ride height of your car to exactly what you want, and allow you to run a wider wheel, should you go that route in the future (the physical diameter of a coilover is smaller than that of the stock strut). That said, a set of good springs is probably better than some cheap coilovers, like some $500 ones from Raceland.

Regardless, install is something you can probably do yourself. It's actually simpler with coilovers, but if you do go with springs, get yourself a set of spring compressors (can be rented from places like AutoZone - return them and it costs you nothing), and some kind of socket with an open back, such as a spark plug socket or something like this because you'll need it.

As with all suspension modifications, it's a good idea to get an alignment afterwards as well.

So you didn't mention if you've tried any steps yet, so ignore this comment if you have.

My friend did the same thing, and it can sometimes be an easy fix.

A couple of quick things to check. This should take like 30 seconds, is not messy, and saves you from the "oh, I feel so stupid" moment. If it doesn't work, then you know you've tried the basics, and it's time to call professionals!

1. Make sure the blades can spin freely. On the bottom of the garbage disposal in the center there is a little opening with a hex shape. There will usually be a matching wrench somewhere nearby (maybe under the sink, maybe in that junk drawer in the kitchen that has all the manuals and stuff you never know what to do with). It would look like this:
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000BQ7WE0/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_eIwxDbFYFCVX7
   
   It should be able to freely turn (or you may still hear glass crunching or preventing it from spinning. Sometimes manually spinning the blades can clear them.
   
   
2. Is the disposal not making any noise at all when you turn it on? The fuse may be blown. There is a reset button on the bottom of the disposal that can be reset when the disposal has been overloaded by accident. You can press it to make sure that it is set and the disposal tries to turn on.
   
   Here's a video of the whole clearing process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0OByRuoYM0

You'll probably want a park tools repair stand (i have that one, it's cheap and it gets the job done), and the big blue book.

You'll also probably need a bottom bracket tool depends on your type of bottom bracket though. You might want to get a breaker bar as well (leverage is very important when removing these bottom brackets).

You'll need a chain whip and lockring spanner.

If you are going threaded fork, you'll need the relevant spanner wrenches.

Make sure you have a good multi-tool/allen wrench set. A nice tube of waterproof grease, and some triflow or other chain lube, and a degreaser. Also a good pedal wrench is good to have.

A 4th hand tool is really good to have if you are running your own brakes, plus you'll need a good housing/cable cutter.

If i can think of anything else, i'll get back to you, but that should pretty much cover it.

Checkout Tekton, can get all their stuff on Amazon and I've been very pleased with the stuff I have from them. Best part is for the most part they don't skip sizes in their sets like other cheap stuff.

Check out, TEKTON Combination Wrench Set with Store and Go Keeper, Metric, 8 mm - 22 mm, 15-Piece | 18792 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OZJN3PQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YfpWAbSSBGA74

I have this set and a couple others. They have been awesome.

Much better. The rest of your stuff looks pretty well chosen.

How long is that adjustable wrench? It looks big and heavy. I'd recommend a 6" one: https://www.amazon.ca/TEKTON-23002-6-Inch-Adjustable-Wrench/dp/B00FFUPS98

I'd also recommend a compressible down jacket if you don't have one already. They add a lot of warmth without much weight.

Haha, yes! I personally like the DeWalt stuff (I like their drills/bit too). Something like this would probably work very well. Comes with a handle too if you don't have a drill.

It would probably be cheaper to think about the tools you're going to definitely need and buy them individually as cheap as you can or in smaller sets.

90% of the tools i've used to do a lot of work on multiple bikes is with this £9 box of sockets and this £9 set of spanners.. The socket set has been amazing with its ratchet and spanner that clips into each other. So useful.

Also get a large torque wrench. I got this one which has been great: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000LFTSG6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

All that is less than £40 and will cover almost everything the average person is going to do with a bike.

Bit slip is most of the reason for rounded Allen (hex) wrenches.

I pretty much scrap using regular Allen wrenches for driver bits, and use an adapter for a 1/4” ratchet like this. Bonus is I can use my cordless Milwaukee ratchet and zip off a bottle holder or a seat really quick, or bolts for a rack, and your hand puts pressure on the bit to keep it seated in the bolt.

I usually have luck making a flat edge on a rounded bit with a bench grinder.

I highly recommend an electronic torque wrench.
The mechanical ones are very inaccurate at the bottom end of range. Head bolts are often at the bottom or below what they can even be set to.

I use this one and it works amazingly well. It can accurately go down to 3ftlb. You can set the desired torque and it has a beep alarm as you approach, reach, and go over the threshold. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004VYUKTC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I also recommend flying with a very basic set of tools. I fly with some hex keys and wrench that fits all the sizes on my paramator. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F512F74/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Siphon is nice to get fuel out of paramotor. This one works amazingly for me. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CKW15ZS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Radio chest harness. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007HJKSG8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I added a draw cord to attach my phone to. Phone then tucks into the velcro pocket and is secured by one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H4E9Z6O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It's powerful enough to draw in a medium weight phone.


Hook knife: https://superflyinc.com/products/jack-the-ripper-hook-knife


Power floats: https://glidersports.com/shop/powerfloat-2bsure/

Waste flotation: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013RLI9XS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Cut prop tape strips out of this: https://www.amazon.com/Scotchgard-Clear-Paint-Protection-60-inches/dp/B004VG8DS0/ref=sr_1_9?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1534535837&sr=1-9&keywords=3m+scotchgard


RTV silicon to put on exhaust springs to reduce vibration fatigue: https://www.amazon.com/Rutland-500%C2%B0RTV-High-Silicone-Black/dp/B000H5Y6CQ/ref=sr_1_5?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1534352404&sr=1-5&keywords=heat+resistant+silicon+rtv


Motor tachometer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GTP6ORC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Radio: I recommend the FT60 or FT65. The 60 model is tried and true and can also be modded to RX aviation band. FT65 has newer display and is cheaper having been made in China.

Plumber's apprentice here, a little overeager to talk about this. I definitely use my baby channel locks on faucet supply lines at the valve with my large ones to hold the valve steady. For the top portion where the line goes into the faucet I have a special red tool that tightens them. You put the supply line inside of it so you can still twist it to tighten, it's pretty neat! It even has another side for tightening the plastic nut that holds the faucet in place underneath so you can easily tighten what's needed in those very cramped quarters

https://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-57003-Change-Faucet-Wrench/dp/B078YYD66B

(Check out the 4th pic for context of putting the supply lines inside of it. The metal piece on the right comes out for tightening of the supply line and plastic nut that holds the faucet down)

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Title | (Xbox One) How to fix sticky buttons on your controller - NO SOLDERING REQUIRED!
Description | This video shows you how to easily and thoroughly clean the inside of your Xbox One controller and restore it to like new condition, without having to solder anything. For this project, you'll need a T8 security torx screwdriver, as well as a T6. Don't buy a new remote, save your hard earned money and do it yourself!! Here is a link to the tool used in the video http://www.amazon.com/Titan-12710-Tamper-Proof-Star/dp/B000LQEUJ0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1414030911&sr=8-2&keywords=titan+security+torx
Length | 0:10:42






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I got this set for Christmas. So far they have been all I have needed. But I have not done anything big to my bike yet.
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/socket-sets/halfords-advanced-professional-28-piece-metric-socket-set-3-8

They have a lifetime guarantee.

Also handy to have from your local Aldi is a set of these.
https://www.aldi.co.uk/ratchet-spanners---5-piece/p/093193017782400
They Re currently in stock. You might have to buy a 12mm spanner off eBay but it's a good starter set.

Also a breaker bar is a great idea. I got one from Halfords. Bit expensive but some of those bolts won't move with just a ratchet.

Also a torque wrench.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000LFTSG6/ref=s9_top_hd_bw_b27E4n9_g60_i1?pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-2&pf_rd_r=N2SJZ5GARTMTP3EBQD3A&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=687516687&pf_rd_i=1939055031

I started out with just this and i had no issue till i started needing specialty junk. Codeblues and Dogbones are my best friends (These if you want more sizes), These + a larger set and a 11-1 w/ t25 security bit. Good razor and flush cuts of your choice. Beyond that its all climbing/rigging convenience stuff.

I've had bad luck with torque wrenches in the past, so I decided to go a different route. I gave some "Torque Adapters" a try from ACDelco, and I was really pleasantly surprised! They come in 1/2 inch and 3/8th inch flavors. They are quite easy to use as well!

quality t handle hex wrench set I got this set and love it.

Some curved jaw cable cutting pliers for cutting brake and shifter housing/cable.
This is essential for making clean cuts. Don't try to use wire cutters.

Some kind of stand. Or some way to secure the bike while you work on it. I bought the cheapest trainer I could find on craigslist for this purpose and it has worked out great.

Cant see how the truck is positioned. Is it at the bottom of the hill facing up? In the middle of the hill? Do you have another vehicle available?

Lots of ways to do this you could use a come along.

If you dont think you will use that much or want to avoid the cable and you have some good chains available you could always use a Hi lift jack (we call em trailer jacks here) as a winch as well.

It really doesnt appear that you are in a horrible situation from these pics. You could probably use that plywood there to put under the trucks oem jack and jack it up some to put more of those concrete blocks under the tires.

Not knowing exactly how the truck sits and what you have available and or are willing to purchase makes it hard to recommend things.

Good luck, be safe and check the ratings when using any type of strap/cable/chain under these circumstances!

Here's what I would personally recommend for a decent minimum starter set, assuming you're just looking for general homeowner/handywork tools:

• 5-in-1 screwdriver
  
• 16 oz. claw hammer
  
• 6 in. adjustable wrench
  
• Measuring tape
  
• Allen wrenches
  
• Pliers
  
  Those are all solid quality tools that I've personally used in the past. There's obviously tons of other stuff you'll need along the way if you're into fixing things but that's a great starting point.

Not a split beam style one. Never have to reset those when putting them away.

This one is a stellar buy - non branded snap on for a fraction of the cost. I love my hf stuff but this torque wrench is the best one I’ve ever had

Precision Instruments PREC3FR250F Silver 1/2" Drive Split Beam Torque Wrench with Flex Head https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XMSFIM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_M4aPCbFEZ9X3H

Ta da, happy wheeling, stay safe and always use a tree saver and proper safety strap wise.

Thanks for the reply. Your links got me on the trail to find this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004DYKIH4/

I think this will do nicely with the existing bits I have :)

Yes, get a better allen key set. I have a few of these and they are high quality and fits the screws perfectly. (No spinning or stripping)

Though about something like this? I can't personally vouch for it, but it gets great reviews and has a very broad range.

To go along with the allen keys that you will definitely need I highly recommend some Bondhus Allen Keys. A lot of people on the internet like them a lot, especially for cycling needs.

There's the colored set I linked and also a silver/gold/black set. Really high quality and relatively cheap. I think individual keys are much more handy when working with a bike. There's a imperial set on Amazon too, most bike happen to be in metric though and that's what I linked.

I bought this ACDelco digital torque wrench. Pricey but amazing. For chassis work, just get a $12 harbor freight torque wrench in 1/2" and you should be fine. The only time you'll need a 1/4" drive is if you're doing inch/pounds.

I have the bigger brother of the tekton you mentioned: https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24340-2-Inch-ft-lb-33-9-338-9/dp/B00C5ZL1NS

Since I drive an F150 with lug nuts that need 150ft/#. And as with most precision devices, they don't operate their best at either extreme.

The thing is solid, and all my tekton tools have been a pleasure to use. But I have read online as I am sure you have that spring types like the tekton can lose calibration A) over time, B) if you do not return to the lowest setting.

The Tekton would be fine probably forever, but if you bite the bullet now you can get the generic version of the snap-on for about 3X: https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Instruments-PREC3FR250F-Silver-Torque/dp/B002XMSFIM/

I came across this link on this subreddit about who actually makes the tools for snap-on, and you can find it here: http://www.toolchat.net/

Since most snap-on are just re-branded. The 2nd wrench I linked is a split-beam and does not have the associated accuracy-over-time issues of the spring type ones.

That said, with the Tekton you can spend that other 100$ on more needed tools, then graduate to higher quality over time. Having a spare around is awesome.

2011 Xterra, I don't really off-road, but I do get stuck a good amount. I live in northern Michigan.

• 20ft 20,000lb tow strap
  
• Cable winch- http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NPPBHO?keywords=cable%20winch&qid=1454268116&ref_=sr_1_2&sr=8-2
  
• Jumper cables
  
• 2 machetes
  
• 1 hand chainsaw - http://www.amazon.com/SHARPEST-Survival-Chainsaw-Highest-Quality/dp/B00HHLBFX6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1454267405&sr=8-3&keywords=hand+chainsaw
  
• If I am in it, then a 9mm S&W M&P9c
  
• First aid kit
  
• A few flashlights, LED lantern, and a couple lighters
  
• Adjustable wrench
  
• Leatherman
  
• 4x 15ft 500lb ratchet straps
  
• Utility Shovel - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BE6QDW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Best thing about these wrenches is you don't have to crank them back down to 20 ft/lbs after each use like you do with spring based torque wrenches.

https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Instruments-PREC3FR250F-Silver-Torque/dp/B002XMSFIM/ref=sr_1_10?crid=3TMDK1QRGU9I&keywords=torque+beam+wrench&qid=1564321191&s=gateway&sprefix=torque+beam%2Caps%2C129&sr=8-10

This is the generic version of that wrench.

I just got a pack of allen keys from amazon and 1.3 is the perfect fit. The pack had a .9 which is to small, fyi

If you want to go all out you can get the wadsworth set. We use these to get into tight spaces taking apart stamping dies. You can put a pipe on it. I think it can take like 400lbs of torque. They are awesome.

Get a ratcheting T-handle with allen bits and then you can also use a drill to assemble things much faster. I've put together bed frames, chairs, etc. So much faster and easier. And then you'll also have a nice case for the bits so you won't have to tape them to anything to find them. :-)

For a bicycle, get a torque key and call it a day.

I personally use a [Ritchey Torque Key](Ritchey Torque Key Bike Torque Wrench - 6-Bit Set, 5Nm Preset Max Torque https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SU86GCK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kNfWDbPHT1AFQ). Works Great for all the smaller bolts. Anything requiring more torque, like bottom brackets and cassettes, just wing it.

Esun filament is easy to get. If you get the powder coated sheet prints come off easy. If not then I recommend a scraper and 99% iso alcohol. I also recommend the following.


Micro Cutter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPDG1K


Wiha 26491 5-Piece Ball Metric End Hex Driver Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NZ5QE2

Most of the tools included with atomizers are cheap crap. Do yourself a huge favor and buy a good set of hex keys, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001ATKWJY

I don't know if this is what you're talking about, but I have these and they're great for long bolts and stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/Crescent-CX6PT20-Pass-Through-Ratchet-20-Piece/dp/B009L8GEPM

Probably. could be wrong though. Regardless it's pretty cheap.

Here is a relatively cheap supply list:

Loctite Blue 242:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I1RSNS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9tS9yb9QJHK9R

Nano-Oil 10 weight:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002C9RGA4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EwS9yb10KF8P2

Torques:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LQEUJ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yvS9ybNJ3JZ9A

There are probably better torques but l think these will work. I have a $45 set so I didn't think that is really cheap lol

For 3/8 impact sockets go with the Sunex 3342 master set. It has both SAE and Metric and comes with both short and deep well for $68 and they're made from Cr-Mo instead of Cr-V like the Tekton ones are.

Edit: For wrenches check out the Tekton 18772 and 18792 sets, I own both of these sets and like them a lot and just now noticed that they're on sale right now.

I use this when I’m changing a faucet. I’m not sure what yours looks like underneath but this has been my money maker.

Ridgid 57003 EZ Change Faucet Tool, Sink Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078YYD66B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fAx5BbRJYNJYY

>Actually, I ended up getting a "pass thru" wrench set which I think should work, but haven't had a chance to try yet.

Interesting, I wasn't aware of this one. Indeed could be really useful.

The only downside that I see is that you'll most likely have to remove the rear motor cable connectors, because you'll need to remove the rubber nut cap. When I was changing my rear brake disc last week, I managed to do that without removing the connectors.

Front motor cable connectors though have to be removed every time - otherwise it's just fucking impossible to pull it through those tight holes of the front suspension.

Lowe's has the same item for the same price.

Yes, $9 for a little wrenchette is definitely overpriced. Even amazon's price of $6 is too high, IMHO. I guess the lesson is "don't lose it" and if you do, just use a regular 1/4 inch hex wrench (aka an allen key).

If you want to build an AR on your own (grown man legos ftw) I suggest you build one. You can build a quality AR on the cheap. There is a barrier to entry from the tools you will need but from there on out you can use those tools for multiple builds. At a minimum you will need:

• AR Armorer's Tool
  
• https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1007352657/tapco-multi-tool-ar-15 <- I got this one
  
• https://www.midwayusa.com/product/925925/magpul-ar-15-armorers-wrench-multi-tool-steel-black <- the best one and most $$$
  
• http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/wrenches/ar-15-armorer-s-wrench-prod80294.aspx <- decent trade off
  
• 1/2 inch torque wrench
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL0RU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• 1/2 inch breaker bar
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-00206A-Premium-Breaker-Length/dp/B001222378/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1505016107&sr=8-3&keywords=breaker+bar
  
• torque screwdriver
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012AXR4S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• vice
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Yost-LV-4-Home-Vise-4-1/dp/B00YS401X0/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1505016377&sr=1-2&keywords=vise <- bolt to workbench type
  
• https://www.amazon.com/SE-8436MVC-Universal-Table-Vise/dp/B0013E2AQY/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1505016377&sr=1-7&keywords=vise <- clamp on type
  
• upper vice block
  
• https://www.midwayusa.com/product/210021/wheeler-engineering-delta-series-upper-receiver-ar-15-action-vise-block-clamp
  
• lower vice block
  
• https://www.midwayusa.com/product/855360/magpul-bev-block-ar-15-action-block
  
• moly lithium grease/aeroshell 33 MS grease
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BJ3HE0K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• loctite 242 (blue) and 271 (red)
  
• roll pin punch set
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Engineering-Delta-Roll-Install/dp/B01B3NWDIE
  
• You will also likely need some basic tools, like a hammer, screwdriver set, hex tool set, etc.
  
• OPTIONAL: scope bubble level; for use if you mount a scope
  
• https://www.midwayusa.com/product/529349/wheeler-engineering-level-level-level-scope-crosshair-leveling-tool <- basic version, will work
  
• https://www.midwayusa.com/product/189016/wheeler-engineering-professional-reticle-leveling-system <- fancier version. easier to use
  
• OPTIONAL: gun vice
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Tipton-181181-Best-Gun-Vise/dp/B001AT3SCC/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1505017850&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=gun+vice <- I like this one but there are cheaper options out there. Also, no you cannot replace an actual vice with this. This is more of a "holder" and won't be able to stand up to the torque you'll have to apply to some barrel nuts (30-80 ft lbs).
  
  ---
  
  As for AR parts you can go pretty basic with an Anderson lower (~$45 not including paperwork). Or you can get a "better" lower that has build in ambi mag release, that tab that prevents rattling (can't remember what it's called atm), etc. The lower will last you through multiple builds. I'm still rocking the Anderson lower on this ~$4,500 build so it's definitely versatile.
  
  From there you can also go basic with the upper, where I suggest an Aero Precision (~$65). From there you'll need a BCG, barrel, handguard, buffer tube (technical term is receiver extension), stock, pistol grip, trigger, and lower and uppers parts kits.
  
  If you want something you can just go and shoot and don't care to modify, then buy a pre-built AR. If you want to build one to custom fit your needs then I suggest you put down the money on the tools. Best part about the tools is that you can fix and replace most issues that comes up with your or your friends ARs.
  
  Also don't forget to buy some liquid blue and aluminium black just in case.

From Tekton Tools

1. Get a large fixed weight (such as a 45 lb. steel plate) and a way of hanging it on the end of your torque wrench (such as a rope). Add up the weight of the objects you’ll be hanging on the torque wrench (for example, total weight = 46 lb. if the steel plate weighs 45 lb. and the rope weighs 1 lb.)
   
   ​
   
   
2. Measure the distance in inches from the center of the torque wrench handle to the drive tang. Divide by 12 to get the number of feet—for example, 21 in. = 1.75 ft.
   
   ​
   
   
3. Set the torque wrench to the total weight of the objects you will hang on it multiplied by the number of feet. In this example, 46 lb. * 1.75 ft. = 80.5 ft-lb. of torque.
   
   ​
   
   
4. Fix the drive end on a fastener or other object that won’t move so that the torque wrench is parallel to level ground. You can use a level to make sure the wrench is really parallel.
   
   ​
   
   
5. Hang the weight from the center of the handle. Don’t let the weight touch the ground.
   
   ​
   
   
6. Your torque wrench is accurate if it clicks when set to the same torque as you are generating, as long as it doesn't click when less torque is applied. You can check this last part by moving the weight in slightly toward the drive, which will reduce the torque. The torque wrench shouldn’t click when the weight is moved closer. If it does, it is under-measuring the torque, meaning that your fastener won't be tight enough.
   
   ​
   
   ​
   
   Or just use a torque adapter like this.

It honestly wasn't bad at all. Took me about 10 minutes and would be much quicker now that I know what to do.

You have to remove 5 screws from the exterier and once you're inside another 3 screws I think.

You'll needa Torx 10 and Torx 20 screwdriver. Something like this would work and give you both and you'll need something to pry off the rubber feet with. I bought one of these but you can probably find something around the house to use.

Here's a good set of instructions for taking apart the Xbox:
https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Xbox+Teardown/1308

And this video shows someone taking one apart and removing the capacitor: https://youtu.be/9cdR8Ryn4wE

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

quality t handle hex wrench set

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

this is the best tool you'll ever buy
I wouldn't use it to mount the TV though

They look cool, hope they work well for you.
I use Wiha precision stuff at home and at work... Hex drivers, nut drivers and screwdrivers. A bit pricey but you can't go wrong with them. 👍

https://www.amazon.ca/Wiha-26491-5-Piece-Metric-Driver/dp/B000NZ5QE2

Try searching for a 1/4 Square Drive Bit Holder

https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Tools-4935070-Square-Magnetic/dp/B0040UBLO0/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Square+Drive+Bit+Holder+1%2F4%22&qid=1556205744&s=hi&sr=1-3

Edit: This one looks even better, has a quick change and is fairly cheap with lots of reviews on amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Bit-Adapter-Ratchet-Driver-Quick-Change/dp/B004DYKIH4/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp?keywords=Square+Drive+Bit+Holder+1%2F4%22&pd_rd_i=B004DYKIH4&pd_rd_r=4898ea1f-1cdc-4e75-8143-41fd0c0672cd&pd_rd_w=rhvM7&pd_rd_wg=drd7x&pf_rd_p=5c5ea0d7-2437-4d8a-88a7-ea6f32aeac11&pf_rd_r=5RV4QAAKZMRAF10V6EM6&qid=1556205744&s=hi

Just get a $5 disposal wrench. It sticks in the bottom of the disposal and unjams it. Super simple to do.

InSinkErator WRN-00 JamBuster Wrenchette https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQ7WE0/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_4oLkyb7VQXCG8

They do make one that has a more reasonable torque range for bikes. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004VYUKTC

It's nice in that it measures torque for left-handed threads as well. I use it for pedals and bottom brackets mostly.

Here are a few examples at amazon. They should have at least one at the local big box home improvement store too

http://www.amazon.com/Bit-Adapter-Ratchet-Driver-Quick-Change/dp/B004DYKIH4/

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Proto-J6925-4-Inch-Holder/dp/B001HW898K

http://www.amazon.com/SK-Hand-Tool-44498-4-Inch/dp/B000X1PBXC

I've used this thing with decent success. https://www.amazon.com/Ritchey-5Nm-6-Bit-Torque-Key/dp/B00SU86GCK

Get a Wiha 35392 metric Allen key set for $10 and forevermore have peace of mind.

My breaker bar is probably the most useful tool I have. It's only $25: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001222378?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s02

Yes metric hex and nut drivers. Nut drivers Hex Drivers

So I should get something like this?

These sick colored hex keys. I've worked as a bike mechanic and we used the black version so I can personally vouch for the quality being pretty good.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FBFI53S/ref=ox_sc_act_image_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

This will make assembly and maintenance much easier.

Bit Adapter - 1/4" to 1/4" - Turn Any Ratchet Into a Driver! Now with Quick-Change By Pro Tools https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004DYKIH4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_P6GsDb0GQ5R1V something like this should work just search 1/4 ratchet to 1/4 drill or impact adapter

Update:

After reading a bunch of reviews and looking at all the recommendations, I decided to go with the ritchey 5Nm 6-bit set given that I need to use this only a couple of times a year, if that.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SU86GCK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thank you all for your input!

This could help you in the future

Chain breaker is for removing chain pins. When you get a new chain it probably will have more links then you need.

While I have no problem with them making them, I flat out refuse to purchase Shimano chains because there are many times when I need to take a chain off and I can't because I've run out of replacement pins. Sram 9 speed chains have a reusable/rebreakable link. Sram 10/11/12 speed chains have a locked permanently after the first time link. I do not purchase those either. I exclusively use KMC chains because they come with a reusable link for breaking the chain in that location. I also keep 2 of the links in my saddle bag. Ya never know when a link will get buggered 15 miles from the trailhead.

If you have carbon, then get one of these preset torque wrenches: Ritchey 5Nm 6-Bit Torque Key https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SU86GCK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0gHWCbBB8T426 (Park, Ice, Bontrager, etc all make them too). I like the ones where you can replace the bit. Don't use it to loosen the bolts, use a hex/Allen key for that.

DIY hanger tool: https://youtu.be/sWdO4dnu18g

Truing zip ties: https://youtu.be/fQ4g1QNg4dU

Good luck!

Hex bit socket like this

Well, I know I'm a bit late to the party, but I always forget my questions when it comes to Wednesday.

Anyway, I've finally managed to buy the sought-after torque wrench!. It's not too fancy, but I won't be using it a lot for now, so it should to the job.

I also bought 4 spark plugs, a feeler gauge and silicon grease. I'll be attempting to replace my own plugs this Christmas. I've got the torque settings from my manual, but I'm not sure whether this wrench can go so low (25 Nm are required). Anyway, my question is, as someone who'll be doing this for the first time, could you give me a any tips?

I dont know. But this...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B000LFTSG6/ref=pd_aw_sbs_263_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=89V5N6R58908M5H0CQVT

... is #1 best seller in the category. Its cheaper and it goes up to 210Nm.

I dont know if thats good or bad because the lower range is also higher.

I really need to buy one too though so id like to see what more experienced people have to say

Well definitely get this as you'll never regret having a nice set of hex keys and every fixed gear owner needs a Lockring Tool.

Grease and chain oil are also missing from that set and mission critical if you don't already have them.

For the crankset that kit should have you covered

Samething happened with one of my Craftman torque wrenches, actually. Now I check my torque wrenches with this prior to use (and calibrate them when needed). Totally worth the money.

Why not something like this? It goes on a normal ratchet between the socket and the wrench. Could probably make it work with the right sized spanner as well.

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-ARM602-4-Digital-Adapter-4-147-6/dp/B004VYURT0/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=Ratchet+Torque+Wrench&qid=1566286754&s=gateway&sr=8-13

A quick search on Amazon found 3 pass thru socket sets:

GearWrench

Craftsman

Bostitch

edit to add more:

Crescent

ChannelLock

Home Depot, Lowes, and Harbor Freight, all have house brand pass thru sets (husky, kobalt, pittsburgh).

Part 2; Amazon link

Crescent CX6PT20 X6 Pass-Through Ratchet and Sockets, 20-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009L8GEPM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mQi4DbSZ6XYDY

first result in search...

every set I see on amazon has both T8 and T9. Most are around $15-20 though.

Of course it wouldn't be /r/tools if I didn't recommend a Wera set

Those are nice torque wrenches. The split beam ones don't need to be zeroed out after each use so it's my go to for lug nuts usually. I have what is essentially the same wrench, just direct from the manufacturer Snap On uses, Precision. Precision Instruments PREC3FR250F Silver 1/2" Drive Split Beam Torque Wrench with Flex Head https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XMSFIM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_I.-PDb81XF0CP

For a situation where one or two people could push your vehicle out of being stuck yes it would probably work, for being actually stuck no. For cheap you're better off with a 25ft chain and a hi-lift with winching kit or a dual gear comealong.

The only suggestion I have is to buy a high quality extension in the shortest length you can and still reach the socket. Also, don't use your ratchet on this you may break it. You should be using a breaker bar

Respectfully, I have to disagree. While the Chapman set may be much more common, the Wadsworth mini ratchet is the king. The Chapman has its place, but this is a superior tool on every level, except price.

https://www.amazon.com/Wadsworth-Ratchet-Super-Deluxe-Tools/dp/B0000WTWZ2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473656504&sr=8-1&keywords=wadsworth+ratchet+set

TEKTON 5547 4-Ton Dual Gear Power Puller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPBHO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GQaGyb6K9N6GF

https://www.amazon.com/Bit-Adapter-Ratchet-Driver-Quick-Change/dp/B004DYKIH4

Crescent makes a set: https://www.amazon.com/Crescent-CX6PT20-Pass-Through-Ratchet-20-Piece/dp/B009L8GEPM

I have it, and haven't had any issues with it, though I rarely use it.

Dude...

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001222378/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1464108450&sr=1&keywords=Breaker+bar


Buy real tools man.

https://www.amazon.com/Titan-12710-Tamper-Proof-Star/dp/B000LQEUJ0/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1517581060&sr=1-4&keywords=tamper+proof+torx

Tamper-Proof Torx, Tamper-Star, Tamper-Torx, I've heard them called all sorts of things. Lots of bits available for this sort of fastener now...

http://www.amazon.com/Titan-12710-Tamper-Proof-Star/dp/B000LQEUJ0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1413995910&sr=8-2&keywords=tamper+torx

I use the AC-Delco electronic ones. They come with calibration results that show they are very accurate at their minimum reading.

As others have said, gauges typically aren't accurate at low/high readings.

http://www.amazon.com/Titan-12710-Tamper-Proof-Star/dp/B000LQEUJ0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420597060&sr=8-1&keywords=security+torx+set

should have what you need.

http://www.amazon.com/Ritchey-5Nm-6-Bit-Torque-Key/dp/B00SU86GCK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450646968&sr=8-1&keywords=ritchey+torque+key

https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Instruments-PREC3FR250F-Silver-Torque/dp/B002XMSFIM

InSinkErator tool can be found in most hardware stores for around $5:

http://www.amazon.com/InSinkErator-WRN-00-JamBuster-Wrenchette/dp/B000BQ7WE0

Wiha metric and/or inch sets in BIFL quality and guaranteed.

Comes with a holder, and I find I don't misplace quality tools.

Get one of those pass through socket sets maybe? https://www.amazon.com/Crescent-CX6PT20-Pass-Through-Ratchet-20-Piece/dp/B009L8GEPM%3Fpsc%3D1%26SubscriptionId%3DAKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q%26tag%3Dduckduckgo-ffcm-20%26linkCode%3Dxm2%26camp%3D2025%26creative%3D165953%26creativeASIN%3DB009L8GEPM

Try one of these?

https://www.amazon.ca/TEKTON-5547-4-Ton-Power-Puller/dp/B000NPPBHO?th=1&psc=1&source=googleshopping&locale=en-CA&tag=googcana-20&ref=pd_sl_9pvhzuqrji_e

I think I’m leaning towards this one, but I’ve never owned a split beam torque wrench. Any downsides other than clockwise only?

torque wrench

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001222378/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

just a heads up, if you put a word in [ ] and the link in () immediately after it makes a hyper link. For example cable winch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004VYURT0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I don't know... taping the garbage disposal "key" to the side of it has really come in handy.

(if you don't know what I mean: see this)

I also keep one of these, a little less awkward but I find it handy to have both

Get yourself one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Titan-12710-Tamper-Proof-Star/dp/B000LQEUJ0/ref=sr_1_6?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1539364509&sr=1-6&keywords=torx+screwdriver+set&dpID=51AakW0eVNL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Very handy for opening all sorts of electronics devices. If you don't want to wait for shipping, I found one at my local hardware store for a little more money.

Get one of these to start: https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-00206A-Drive-Premium-Breaker/dp/B001222378

And this or the big air compressor equivalent and high volume connectors if you're serious. Impact wrenches are less likely to break things as their hammer action is more uniform and breaks up rust. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008PN5JAU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474751492&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=electric+impact+wrench+1+2&dpPl=1&dpID=41rm-gKmKBL&ref=plSrch

I don't know where you're located, so I did some superficial searching in a few English-speaking parts of the world.

In the UK, this can be had for ~$45:http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-633567-Torque-Wrench-2-inch/dp/B000LFTSG6

In Canada, this one is $36.99: http://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/Torque-Wrenches/1-2-in-dr-Click-Type-Torque-Wrench/2919389.p

Not sure about Australia

I believe you actually need a tool like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQ7WE0/ to get in there properly.. either that or you've ruined the motor. Either way though I would not be putting rice, pasta or starchy things down your garbage disposal it's a nightmare waiting to happen.

Gearwrench. https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-81919-44-Piece-Non-Ratcheting-Combination/dp/B00H2W7LVK/ref=sr_1_24?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1540036597&sr=1-24&keywords=wrench+set

Tekton. https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-Combination-Wrench-Keeper-Metric/dp/B00OZJN3PQ/ref=sr_1_5?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1540036468&sr=1-5&keywords=wrench+set&dpID=51%252BDoXrWhZL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I don't like a raised panel wrench. You could also keep an eye out for craigslist snap ons or Mac.

one thing.. if you have an autozone.. go look for one of these https://www.amazon.com/Titan-12710-Tamper-Proof-Star/dp/B000LQEUJ0

how is your air dam below the radiator.. that is used like a bulldozer blade to build air pressure in front of the radiator ..

which engine.. LT1. with optispark? examine the ignition coil.. its on the front of the cylinder head.. if you have a 305 TBI.. examine the coil on the back of the intake for signs of high voltage leakage.
little white circular marks indicate leakage..

lightly squeeze the upper and lower radiator hoses.. do the same with the heater hoses.. extra soft hoses get replaced.

The issue with these is that accuracy is really bad below about 20% of the maximum torque it can do. So the first one you posted, the 3/8ths drive 10-80 ft. lb. one, is probably not really useful below 16 ft. lbs. The 1/2 inch drive one that goes up to 150 ft. lbs. will be not so useful below 30 ft. lbs. (which is most fasteners under 3/8" diameter SAE or 10mm diameter metric).

I have a complete collection of beam type and click type ones. Actually, I have at least two of every size in the click type, including a "matched set" from Harbor Freight that I paid $30 for the entire set (with coupons for $9.99 each). If you keep them calibrated, they all seem to work well, and honestly, the harbor freight ones seem to stay calibrated as good as (or better than) the $100+ Matco and Snap On units I also own.

Now for the wrinkle, have you looked at the "digital torque adapters" on Amazon? Something like this amzn.com/B004VYURT0

I've got a 1/2" drive one of those (not that exact unit) and a 3/8" drive one. The 1/4" drive one is on my wish list right now. The one I linked is good from ~4 ft. lbs. to ~150 ft. lbs. They also are known to be slighlty less accurate at low torque settings (below 10% of the maximum), but they operate across a wider range than the click type torque wrenches. That 1/2 inch drive unit would cover most of what a less expensive 3/8 and 1/2 click type would cover. It's comparable to one of my high end 3/8" drive units that covers from 15 ft. lbs. to 150 ft. lbs., but without the difficulty to use it below 30 ft. lbs. Click types have hardly any "click" to them at low torque settings, and can be very difficult to use on the low end of their scales.

HA! My grandfather gave me an oscilloscope. The cobalt gets me through the little stuff, but if I ever have a "real" job, or I'm going to get into something in a fairly intense fashion, I need a real set. IT also helps getting into tighter spots that the cobalt can't get into, however I also have three or four of these things however I actually prefer the cheaper home depot off brand version. Which is less than 5 bucks? Shit, that's a no brainer if you can spare the space. Comes in a case and everything.

Anyway, you stroke the screwdriver with the magnet a few times and, that's about it. Makes it easier to pick up bits, but then again this was common practise before taking your laptop into the shop.

Wrapping them with electrical tape is so they don't conduct electricity or arc if you're working on live wires (even electronics with capacitors).

Unfortunately this method only works with proper screw drivers.

I have a Sealey one for the lower digits and a Silverline for the higher digits and found them both to be accurate and reliable and you can get them both for around £50 at the moment

Not much you can do. Penetrating oil, heat, and if you can unscrew it a bit, try working it back and forth. Might need more pressure on the bolt too if you're using a screw driver, a bit to 1/4" drive adapter works so you can get lots of torque with a ratchet while pressing the bit into the bolt with your palm

https://www.amazon.com/Bit-Adapter-Ratchet-Driver-Quick-Change/dp/B004DYKIH4

Torx < 6 point < 12 point

I use this one professionally:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002XMSFIM/ref=mp_s_a_1_19?ie=UTF8&qid=1506293827&sr=8-19&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=torque+wrench&dpPl=1&dpID=31dgKjt4U%2BL&ref=plSrch

Snap-On has this exact model with their name on it (plus a reversing head I think) and I've been using this one on every. Single. Wheel. Nut. On every car I take the wheels off of for the last 6 or 7 years and it is still calibrated.

I also torque axle nuts up to 242 ft-lbs and there are no issues so far

The difference between pro and cheap is that professional holds their calibration and can be re-calibrated and repaired. Cheap ones lose their calibration quickly and most service shops won't recalibrate them. Given their cost, it's cheaper to toss them and buy new when they lose calibration. You can buy adigital adapter to check calibration or just use the digital adapter with a regular ratchet

> Yep, get those BGS flare nut spanners

Actually, I ended up getting a "pass thru" wrench set which I think should work, but haven't had a chance to try yet.

> The screws holding the caliper bracket however might as well be welded in - those were a son of a bitch to loosen up.

Fuck me -- mine was in so tight I stripped the head right off and ended up having to dremel the damn thing out and go buy replacements. That was before I had the fire insight -- after which things went much better.

Before I start this list I am going to say none of these are affiliate links. I'm googling amazon to give OP ideas. None of these specific products that are recommended but it's a "WTF is that?" answer to some things I'm going to bring up.

I'm going to say a plunger is the first thing I buy for a new home (and learn to use it. The "innie flap" has a purpose.)

When it comes to tools that I think are common but by friends apparently don't own until things go wonky?

Wonderbar

A back up sump pump. (I've had to dig one out at 3 am during a power surge that fried my sump pump in the basement)

If there is no power - some way to manually remove the water. There are hand-cranked pumps available that I don't think people think about needing.

A refrigerator dolly. (Apparently it's called an appliance truck and you can find them for a LOT less than this)

Tarps. Just have 3 more
than you think you'd need. If a tree fell on your house and your "old lady neighbor 3 houses up" can you help? (I have a tarp issue. I will admit it. Once they start Tarp Hoarders Anonymous? I'll join)

A basic understanding of electricity and a labeled chart in your fuse box of what switches control what in the house. Let's pretend you're not home and there is some event that causes 2 foot of water in your basement. You need an idiot proof chart that says - TURN OFF THIS THIS AND THAT if Frosty has a meltdown near the dryer.

A clamp style volt meter. Becuase you never want to "think" a wire is not live and find out the hard way.

Tiny little screwdrivers that you think you'll never need unless you loose a nose pad off your glasses.

Spare garden hose that you're not attached to incase you need to use it reroute the run off from an ice dam or syphon out something crazy. (I call him the tribute hose... he just hangs out waiting for the day he's going to get cut up for parts)

Quikcrete. - Story time. My SO got annoyed at the siding on this little part of the house that stuck out about 14" and decided the day before an ice storm was the PERFECT time to redo the siding. That couldn't take more than an hour, right? NO! We found out that there wasn't a full wall behind the siding and about 2 hours before icepocalypse hit we were trying to find a way to pour a new footing for a structural support that apparently had never supported the structure. Long story short - sometimes you need stuff NOW and the hardware store is closed. fast drying concrete can be stored pretty much forever if you keep it away from humidity)

A come-along. Straighten out or pull what ever you want.

My shop vac is a popular item when things go wrong. I think that baby has spent more time in other people's houses than I have.

Vinegar. Lots of vinegar. It's hard for vinegar to go bad and too many people I know have had "OH - ICK" issues to not have several gallons on hand at a time. You can use it to kill a bunch of nastys. (and weeds if you decide having a pretty lawn is important)

A Bow. I consider this a tool. Some people think it's a weapon. I think it's a tool. You can take down supper or shoot a guideline up over the roof of a 2 story house if need be.

Chicken wire.

Ugh... I can't remember the name of this stuff - there is a tape that only sticks to itself. It's rubber. You can use it to seal leaks or fix your couch (I will circle back and see if I can rememeber what it's called if no one jumps in)

I think that's the list for the moment.

This will be an intersting post to follow. Thanks for making us think about things differently.