Couple slight adjustments of /u/onliandone great suggestion.

A big note to instantly make is that for all products from MindFactory, there is a €7,99 shipping fee calculated. Which totals the shipping cost to a whopping: €47.94.

I highly doubt that you'll have to pay that amount if you order everything at once.

Even with those shipping costs, the prices were lower compared to Amazon or other stores their offerings.

Now I will provide you with my standard list of helpful videos to help you understand why I went for these parts.

I'll also provide you with a couple of great guides to help you build the PC.

All you need to build a PC is a (preferably magnetic) Philips head screwdriver & a static free work place.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | €178.57 @ Mindfactory
CPU Cooler | Thermalright TRUE Spirit 120M(BW) Rev.A 46.2 CFM CPU Cooler | €38.93 @ Mindfactory
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-B85M-DS3H-A Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | €79.47 @ Mindfactory
Memory | Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory | €39.77 @ Amazon Deutschland
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | €87.89 @ Mindfactory
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | €52.89 @ Amazon Deutschland
Video Card | Sapphire Radeon R9 390 8GB Nitro Video Card | €348.09 @ Mindfactory
Case | Nanoxia Deep Silence 3 ATX Mid Tower Case | €77.84 @ Mindfactory
Power Supply | Super Flower Leadex Gold 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | €114.00 @ Atelco
Tools| Magnetic Philips head screwdriver| €3.50 @ Amzon Deutschland
Other| Fan splitter| €6.27 @ Amazon Deutschland
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | €1027.22
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-01-20 05:20 CET+0100 |

---

####Learn about cool technology in only a couple minutes!

---

What is overclocking?: Here - 2:32 minutes.

What is the difference between i3, i5 & i7?: Here - 4:32
What is hyperthreading?: Here - 4:47
What is Turbo boost?: Here - 4:05
CPU shopping guide: Here - 5:01
GPU shopping guide: Here - 4:11
How many cores do I need for gaming?: Here - 8:18
DDR3 vs DDR4 speeds: Here - 8:01
What are benchmarks?: Here - 5:21
Pre-built vs building your own?: Here - 6:04
Optical vs laser mouse: Here - 2:10
SSD vs HDD: Here - 4:05
What is resolution?: Here - 5:22
Different panel types: Here - 2:29
Monitor refresh-rate: Here - 5:46
What is Free-sync?: Here - 5:29
Case air pressure: Here - 5:21
Case fan orientation: Here - 3:42
What is a NAS?: Here - 5:06
Raid 0, 1 & 10: Here - 3:11
What PSU to buy?: Here - 5:12
What does 80+ mean?: Here - 3:02

Likely that TechQuickie got even more video's that you can have a look at to get answers. It's a great YouTube channel for easy, quickly explained questions about PC tech.


---

####Guides

---

Now before you have a look at all these guides. The best guide in most cases will always be your MANUAL. Some manuals are garbage, but most of them are more than good enough to be able to help figure out most problems.

How to build an Intel 115x socket PC? This is my personal favorite because it goes in depth, but still keeps the video relatively short. It also got great camera work so you are able to follow all the steps very well. I decided to skip the start of the video. The reason being that the video is posted on 17th of May 2013, he gives the rationale of his selected parts at the start. This is a very long time ago, so the parts are very old, so no need to hear this out. But building a PC is still pretty much the same. No drastic changes. I would recommend to instantly install the aftermarket cooler.
There are a lot of different build guides on the internet, but I really like this one. It's easy to follow.

How to install a 115x CPU? Very simple and easy to follow guide again.
How to install thermal compound? Now, to be clear! Every single heatsink will come with its own thermal compound. Even the intel/AMD stock heatsinks. So there is no need to buy this.
It's only recommended to buy when you either have very bad temperatures or when you want to overclock to the extreme. The temperature difference between the best and the "worst" thermal compound is a couple degrees Celsius.
Be careful though! More is not better! It needs to have enough, but too much will dramatically increase the temperatures of the CPU. Thermal compound helps with the contact of the cooler + the CPU. The CPU + heatsink both have microscopically small gaps, which the thermal compound fills up to let the heat get too the heatsink.
How to install RAM? It's very simple these days. For DDR4 it's pretty much the same.
How to install Windows 8(.1) or 10 from an USB drive? You have to download "media creation tool" which is located at the bottom of the page (blue button). Run that program with a 4GB+ USB flash drive plugged into a PC. Then follow the simple steps and the program will make the USB drive bootable. After that all you have to do is build the PC and boot from that USB drive to install Windows.
How to set up your SSD & HDD? This video is another older video, but it works pretty much the same in Win 8/10. He does talk about a few things that aren't very important, but it's good to know.
* How to use Ninite? This video explains it very well, as well as their recommendations. For security I advise to only get Avira (if you don't mind to get an add every day; if you do mind - just use Microsoft Defender) & Malwarebytes. If you want to pay for an anti-virus; Webroot! Light weight; very high detection rate.

##Hope you like it and If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.

Your upgrade looks like it will be way cheaper than mine was.

I got the Rift on sale for $350, but my PC was like 10 years old with only a new SSD in it.

Ended up getting an i5-9600K + MSI Z390 Gaming Edge for $470, 16 GB of RAM, Cooler Master 212 EVO which turned out to be huge and a huge pain in the ass to install (I recommend watching the video on that page that I didn't notice until after I installed the thing with only it's Ikea-like instructions.), but that big fan means it's far quieter than the tiny stock fans processors usually come with. The i5-9600K does not come with a fan either, so I had no choice and this was the most popular one on NewEgg.

Also got myself an MSI Gaming X GTX 1070 used on Ebay for $270. And because it only has one HDMI port, I decided to use that for the RIFT because it was less risky, and got a Displayport to HDMI cable which supports audio for my monitor which has the speakers built in and does not have a Displayport connector. Only afterward while taking my PC apart however did I realize I had the HMDI cable plugged into my old card with a DVI adapter, and the Gaming X has a DVI port as well, so I could have saved the money on the cable. :(

Also at the last minute I had to run out and grab a Corsair 750W power supply because my perfectly good Coolermaster 750W power supply did not have an 8 pin connector for my CPU. Of course, when I got it home it did not have the 4 pin connector and the motherboard has both a 4 pin and 8 pin and I assumed both would be needed, but I gave it a shot and just having the 8 pin was fine. But now I wonder if just having the 4 pin would also have been fine. The damn manual doesn't have a thing to say about it being okay to just use one of them, but being an electrical engineer I have to assume they're both tied to the same rail on the board, so I'm just gaining a bit more copper to lower the voltage drop if I were to connect a 4 pin as well, and the system seems perfectly stable, so perhaps they included the second connector to help with overclocking. I dunno.

Anyway, final tally including the Rift without a third sensor was $1,339.

And if you're wondering why I didn't go with AMD, well, I could have but when I priced it out, I wasn't actually going to save that much. And the Intel seemed like it would perform better with both games and applications and would just be less likely to have any issues like the Vive and its wireless solution do with AMD processors.

Part of the reason the AMD was not much cheaper is the same MSI motherboard would have been more expensive as an AMD variant and while the AMD included a cooler, the Cooler Master one was only $30 and had a bigger fan which meant it would likely be quieter. Though the AMD does run at a lower wattage, so it could be a toss up. All I know is my old PC sounded like a jet engine when I started doing any heavy lifting with 3D graphics, and it was still kinda noisy otherwise, but now its super quiet and even when running 3D apps that MSI card which I specifically chose because it's one of the quietest, was indeed really quiet.

Speaking of the 1070, my god that is a monster of a card! I barely fit it in my case. And my case is a full size tower. But it has extra 3.5" bays down the bottom where I have my hard drives installed and I had to move them down some more to get it to fit and it only barely slid in behind the metal frame of the drive bay.

Only other thing to mention is while I had no problem fitting my two ram sticks on the motherboard, that Cooler Master cooler's fan would probably collide with one of the ram sticks if I were to install four in there. I think the fan can slide up and down on the cooler though, so perhaps as long as you have low profile ram, you could slide it up a smidge or two to make it fit. Something to consider if you think you may eventually want 32 or 64GB of ram.

So, the cable recommended by Oculus arrived and I gave it a quick test. Just to recap, this is what I posted yesterday:


>My experience so far has been OK but not great.
>
>For reference, I'm using a R5 3600x and GTX 1660 ti, 16GB ram.
>
>This is the cable I'm using
>
>It may be the cable I'm using but I do find it blurrier compared to the Rift S. And I'm seeing compression artifacts in dark areas. For example, in Skyrim at night the mountains in the distance have artifacts. Although, I'm not seeing artifacts in the grass like I could see when using ALVR and VD. Also in the loading screens in Asgard's Wrath, which are mostly dark, I'm seeing a fair bit of artifacts. Lighter parts of the game seem fine.
>
>I've got the cable on order that Oculus suggested. I'm curious to see if it fairs any better.

I ran through the same games as yesterday with this new cable and I'm still seeing video artifacts. It may not be to the extent of the first cable, but definitely still there. The game that seemed to hold up the best was Stormland. Aside from the slight blurriness compared to the Rift S, it was a pretty good image.

Later this week I'll be testing with a RTX 2060 Super to see if there are any improvements.

So far I see the Link as a nice addition to the Quest, but it won't be replacing my Rift S. I think what Oculus has achieved is amazing, and I hope they can keep improving the image.

I currently have mine setup to boot into the NES Classic firmware, and have had it setup to boot into the Shonen Jump firmware. I found it really easy, and here are the steps (as best as I can remember) to do it.

1. Hack your SNES Classic with the newest version of Hakchi CE (I'm guessing that you already have this done)
   
2. Obtain the HSQS file for the firmware that you want to boot into. (This is the one that I use "dp_nes_release_v1.0.3__gc4c703b.hsqs" but I won't tell you how to get it)
   
3. I have the option "Separate games for multiboot" enabled under settings, this will keep the "Return to SNES Classic" from showing up in the SNES Classic side of things.
   
4. Make sure to select the right option of "Current games collection" to match the console you are using, for example I use "Super NES (Europe)" for mine.
   
5. Add the HSQS file, by either dragging it into the window or using "Add more games"
   
6. Rename the new file, if you want to.
   
7. Then click "Export games" and select you USB drive.
   
8. Now select the system that you just added from the "Current games selection", for example "NES (USA/Europe)"
   
9. Now that the new game list is shown, select "Add custom app" from the file menu.
   
10. Put the name that you want, I use "Return to SNES Classic" and click create.
    
11. Now in the new app that showed up, put this line in the "Command line (for advanced users only!) section "/bin/hsqs _nand_". This will allow you to return to the original firmware without taking up extra space.
    
12. Click "Export games" one final time, and select your USB drive.
    
    Sorry if this is kind of long, but I wanted to be as precise as possible to the steps that I used to get mine working.
    
    These are the things that I used,
    
    USB adapter www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FY9Z9GD
    
    Thumb Drive www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-Transfer-Speeds-SDCZ48-064G-UAM46/dp/B00KYK2ABI (I know that this one is overkill for what I do, and that I don't need USB3 but it is the best one that I have tried)
    
    Hakchi2-CE https://github.com/pathartl/Hakchi2-CE/releases I use the 3.5.3 version, which is the most recent as of writing this.
    
    That should be everything that is needed to get it working.
    
    I would like to shout out u/PattonPlays for he has great tutorials on how to do a lot of hacking of the Nintendo Classic systems. I wish I had found him before I started hacking my system. Here is his YouTube channel as well https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCO91Nlt9y8svZF8VjEKpkmQ there are great videos on there, and even though some of his hacking videos are older, he seems to be updating them

Man I totally agree. Oculus needs to get their crap together.

So real quick. I have experimented a lot.... Here is what is working for me:

So I bought the inatek KTU3FR-502I pci-express card to go along with Asus Maxiumus VI Formula motherboard. Use the default windows drivers that install when the card is put into the system. DO NOT USE THE latest drivers until you test it first with the defaults. I had nothing but issues with the latest until going back to the windows drivers and now it's much better. Oculus will give a warning about not having the latest drivers just ignore it.

Then I switched to 2 of these cards just as an experiment.

I also have tried 2 of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AVSN2YG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
with success. For this card you need a PCI-Express x4 slot to install it. I have two of these working just great with the default drivers. I have just installed them today and need to test more to make sure no issues crop up but so far everything is just working with no disconnects. The idea behind this USB 3.1 card versus the USB 3.0 card is that USB 3.1 is 10 Gbps versus USB 3.0's 5 Gbps. The USB 3.0 5Gbps is also being shared among multiple ports on your motherboard so taking away from the total power and bandwidth output. So now with the ORICO usb 3.1 cards I have 2 sensors plugged into one card and 1 sensor and the HMD plugged into the other card. Again currently I am using the default windows drivers and everything seems great. If I start getting disconnects I will try their latest drivers.

The idea behind these add-on USB cards is to make sure you are getting adequate power through the USB ports and eliminating cheaply implemented motherboard ports that often have severe bandwidth limitation since motherboard USB ports all tend to share the same bandwidth.

2 Sensors are attached to the ORICO add-on card with CableCreation Gold (Long 16FT) Super Speed USB 3.0 Active Extension Cables

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

as far as I can tell these are the same thing as: Monoprice 109279 that are recommended on the wiki. One of these two is in the FRONT RIGHT of my room and the other is in the LEFT REAR.
The third sensor is not using an extension and is attached the ORICO card USB 3.1 port and is in the FRONT LEFT corner of my room.

The HMD is also attached to one of the ORICO USB 3.1 ports with a AmazonBasics USB 3.0 Extension Cable - A-Male to A-Female - 9.8 Feet (3.0 Meters)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and to extend the HMD HDMI cable I am using Ultra Clarity Cables HDMI Extension Cable 10 FT Ultra Clarity 4K HDMI Extender 2.0 with Ethernet ( 10 FEET ) M / F Port Saver Cables Braided Cord - Support 3D & Audio Return Channel - Latest Version.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So sorry for the long post but I wanted to share my experience and what works for me. Hopefully it will work for you.

>why is the i7 chip cheaper than the AMD Ryzen chip? I have heard that the AMD chips are better if you look at 'speed per dollar' but that intel is going to be the more expensive and faster option.

Because the 1800X is the "flagship" of the R7 series. In reality you can buy the $320 1700 and overclock it to get the same performance as the 1800X. Plus i don't think that the AIO manufactures have AM4 brackets yet, so you won't be able to hook it up right away (the 1800X doesn't come with a stock cooler like the 1700)

The R7 series cpu's (specifically the 1700) are amazing because the they give you 8 cores / 16 threads and decent gaming performance. But I don't recommend picking one up for a pure gaming build, they're better suited for a gaming / streaming / editing build. The 7700k beats it in every gaming benchmark as you'll see in Gamers Nexus R5 series review from yesterday (He includes the R5 / R7 / 7700k and more).

>Is 32GB of RAM basically overkill? As in, the game/system wont even use it much so the performance difference will be negligible? By 'sweet spot's do you mean it's better to have 16GB of faster RAM than 32GB of slower RAM?

Yeah pretty overkill for a gaming rig. Speed doesn't matter as much on the Intel side (It affects the R5 and R7 series more because of the cpu architechture). Anything around 3000hmz is usually affordable and good. He's a screenshot of my system from a few days ago when i had to prove them wrong :p (He was saying that 32gb's should be the standard for a gaming rig lol). I had 114 Firefox tabs, Discord, A remote access to my work pc, Visual studio, Unity and Rocket League open and it was only using just over 5gb's of memory. Now there are definitely some games that will utilize more than that, but 16gb's is going to be enough for a gaming system for a while. The motherboard i picked out will allow you to add another 2x8gb kit in the future anyway (if you upgrade, get the exact same memory kit).

> What is the difference between the 2 gfx cards recommended by you and VRPC... they seem to be identical except in price.

It's the exact same card, but the one i picked is black, hence the name 'Black Edition'. And it's $20 cheaper :P .

> I am leaning towards having a multiple monitor setup, it just looks badass, I have the perfect desk for it, and I've always wanted do do it. What adapters do I need?

You'll only need adapters if you go with the cheaper Asus VP239H-P's i recommend (I'm not %100 sure if the other monitors i recommend come with a Display Port cable, you'll need one to use G-sync), in that case you'll need a Display Port to HDMI (or DVI).

> About monitors... Have you seen the 5 monitor setup with the screens orientated vertically? I think that looks incredible but It may be overkill and I think it could be pushing the gfx card too hard to render that many pixels in game. Just wanted your thoughts on that: https://i.ytimg.com/vi/eHdeEES1pms/

I wouldn't recommend it, personally i don't really like the look because of all the bezels, but more importantly you'll be powering over 10 million pixels (which is more than 4k) so you'll see a significant performance hit. I'm also not 100% sure if you can hook up 5 monitors to it (physically you can, but i don't know it they can all be used at the same time, but i know that hooking up 4 monitors to one gpu works).

So you have four corners on the recessed ceiling (higher up), and four corners on the lower ceiling. I would almost prefer to put the cameras in the corners of the lower ceiling, because it would give a more straight-on view of the player/controllers. Each camera has a narrower viewing cone at extreme close proximity. The further from the main playspace they are, the more that cone has a chance to "spread out" and cover the actual playspace. In this case, you would draw your playspace with at least (2 ft) or (0.6 m) distance from each of the four walls, so people don't bash their knuckles at the borders.

However, you might not want your cameras to be further than (12 ft) or (3.6 m) apart from each other (for best tracking quality). I don't have a big enough room to run into this limit, so you may be fine with further spaced out cameras. If the lower ceiling corners are further apart than (12 ft) or (3.6 m), then you may want to put them in the recessed ceiling anyways. You can always ignore the Oculus Rift setup's warnings about camera spacing, by the way. In fact, with larger playspaces, the Oculus setup wizard will always complain. Don't worry about it.

Also, you might want to consider using this USB card. It can handle the throughput of all four cameras in USB 3.0 mode, if desired. You can downgrade any camera to USB 2.0 by simply running a USB 2.0 cable to that camera instead of 3.0. A passive USB 2.0 cable is fine for short runs, but consider an active USB 2.0 cable (like the one that comes in the box of an extra Rift camera) for longer runs. You should put your Rift headset in one of the motherboard's USB 3.0 ports (USB 2.0 might actually be fine), and then put all four cameras (you might only need three cameras) in the USB extension card.

You can search this subreddit for discussions on whether you want/need to have the cameras/headset on 3.0 or 2.0. I prefer to run everything at USB 3.0, but it may not be necessary.

For USB 3.0 cable runs that are less than 10 feet (say, those corners nearest to your computer tower), use these passive USB 3.0 cables. You're also going to want a passive USB 3.0 extension for your Rift headset.

For USB 3.0 cable runs that are more than 10 feet away, you should use an active USB 3.0 cable. This is necessary for cameras that are further away from your tower. Note that the cable I linked has an optional barrel port for a 12V power supply. You only need to power these cables if you're daisy-chaining two or more of them in a row (for runs longer than (33 ft) or (10 m)).

These CAT6 round cable clips should work well for cable routing, especially for the slightly thicker active USB 3.0 cables. These general-purpose adhesive cable clips work fine for runs of the thinner, passive USB cables, but you may have issues with the adhesive depending on your wall.

You'll want this HDMI extension cable for your Rift headset, to make use of the extra space. I've had a good experience with bunching the HDMI and USB Rift headset extensions together by using these lightweight Velcro ties. I have about a (10 ft) or (3 m) square playspace, so you may encounter different problems than me if your playspace is larger. I only have three cameras, and it works fine. Good luck in your setup, I'm sure whatever you do will work great!

Good call on the 3.5" bays. Regardless, I think you will be fine to start out with 2 or 4 3.5" bays :). Down the line, you could expand your storage options with a NAS. There is plenty of time for that.

I think one way to get both ESXi and HyperV experience is to deploy a HyperV instance inside of a ESXi VM. That way, you get to experience both. There are a few articles about doing this out there, here is one.

ESXi is relatively easy to get started with especially since they have a slick web GUI for it now (as of ESXi 6.0 Update 2). It would probably help to get some experience with the older vSphere client (since that is still kicking around). vSphere Client is a Windows application. It is going to go away eventually, but it does not hurt to have some familiarity with it.

Starting with ESXi is not too different than other hypervisors. You can download the free hypervisor here. You can burn that ISO to a CD or put it on a USB stick. If you are going to throw it on a USB stick, I would recommend using Rufus because it makes the process of putting the ISO on a USB stick much easier. Once that is booted up, it will start the installer. Follow the prompts, and you are good to go. Since you do not have a ton of SATA ports to spare, you may want to consider putting ESXi on a USB stick of its own (not the one you use to install it). I do not know if the Z400 has an internal USB A port, but if not, you could convert a front panel header into a USB A port with something like this. Putting ESXi on a USB stick frees up a SATA port for whatever storage solution you want to have.

To manage it, you can use the slick GUI (I believe you can just navigate to https://<IP of ESXi box>/ui) or vSphere Client, available here. VM operations are very similar to what you are used to with VirtualBox. From there, you can branch out to the aspects of the hypervisor that are interesting to you. Some of the features will likely require the vSphere Appliance (which costs money), but you can cross that bridge when you get there.

Then don't get the one I linked. Search microusb otg adapter instead since you don't have USB c. There are some options I could think of.

A. Buy something like this along with a normal external hdd of whatever size. This has advantage of getting lots of storage and cheaper than the filehub. But it has downside that you have to plug the HDD into power and use a cable. So kind of bulky and inconvenient, but you get more storage

B Buy smaller USB otg like this and plug in a flash drive. This is smaller than an external hdd and no extra power needed. But a flash drive has less storage for more money. And you still need a cable

C But the wd I linked earlier. It has upside of being less bulky, more simple, and has plenty storage, but it is expensive and not great reviews. It could work great for you, maybe not. Up to you if you want to take chance. You'd also have to charge it.

D. The file hub the other guy said is good too. Less bulky. More trusted to work. You'd plug in a big flash drive or external hdd without needing extra power and can stream to your phone. But you have to buy the actual storage separately, so more expensive. You also have to charge two things.

E. You have microSD slot, so you could buy the biggest microSD card you can afford. This is by far the simplest, least bulky option as it's inside your phone and always there. But the max storage your phone supports in the slot is 200GB. If that's enough for you, you could get one for like $40. If not, I'd do the other options.

Hope I helped.

Thank you so much for the response, it is very much appreciated. Could I pick your brain on a few things if possible?

I have been researching this for quite a while and I have a few questions.

• Do you think the increase in speed for the ram is worth the ~€30 increase in price? From my research it is only minimal improvement and I doubt I would notice the difference in normal use.
  
  
• I have actually changed the motherboard since posting to the one you have selected, however, I am going with the microATX form factor to fit the case I have chosen. I have tried looking but I cant seem to find an answer, does this motherboard come with onboard WiFi or do I need to get a separate WiFi Card? I need WiFi as I currently have no broadband, and must use the WiFi hotspot on my phone.
  
  
• As you can tell from the post, the GPU is the biggest sticking point for me. If I was to spend 200 quid on a GPU I would prefer to go with the 570 for €190. But I honestly think the 1050ti is perfectly suitable for me needs right now. The only thing that is worrying me is the release of GDDR6 and Volta early next year and how that will affect the pricing of lower tier GPUs, if at all.
  
  
• Also, did you choose the 550W PSU because of the GTX1060 3GB? I was initially choosing a CXM 450W 80+Bronze, with the 1050ti, do you think that would be enough?
  
  

• Finally, do you know if mail in rebates work outside of USA?
  

  
  

  Thanks again for all your help. For reference, here is the final build:
  

  
  

  PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
  

  
  

  Type|Item|Price
  

  ----|:----|:----
  CPU | AMD - Ryzen 3 1200 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor | €94.99 @ Newegg
  Motherboard | ASRock - AB350M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | €64.99 @ Newegg
  Memory | G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2666 Memory | €69.99 @ Newegg
  Storage | Toshiba - P300 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | €68.99 @ Newegg
  Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB SC GAMING ACX 2.0 Video Card | €134.99 @ Newegg
  Case | Cooler Master - MasterBox Lite 3.1 MicroATX Mid Tower Case | €47.35 @ Amazon UK
  Power Supply | Corsair - CXM (2015) 450W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | €39.99 @ Newegg
  Fan Splitter | Akasa AK-CBFA04-15 PWM Fan Splitter Cable for 2 Fans | €3.35 @ Amazon UK
  Case Fan | Asiahorse PWM Solar Eclipse-Ultra Quiet Bearing 120mm DC Led Fan for Computer Cases, Long Life CPU Coolers 2pack(RED) | €12.71 @ Amazon UK
  | Total for Newegg (inc. shipping): €520.88 |
  | Total for Amazon UK (inc. shipping Post conversion): €68.53 |
  | Total | €589.41
  | Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-11-18 11:12 GMT+0000 |
  
  

As I do usually agree on the point of you get what you pay for, especially in this hobby, I've had great experiences with 2 different HDMI to VGA adapters that totalled $30. The TenDak and Portta respectively. Now, as they do exhibit some small loss of quality as compared to the HDFury or Sunix adapters. I still think they do a great job for the price. Not saying that they are better or even on par with the more pricier options, just that they eek out plenty of quality for the price and would be acceptable by most folks. But I'm 100% in agreement that if you want the absolute best quality then you should invest in a good adapter like an HDFury.

Here are some of the chargers that are known to perform "GOOD" or "BEST" with the Switch.

---------

Best

Charger|Price (USD)|Link|Notes
--|--|--|--
Nintendo Switch AC Adapter|$29.99|Amazon US|This is the only charger you should use with the dock but it's big and doesn't work great with any phones
Google 18W Pixel charger|$35|Google Store|More portable than Nintendo's charger, great at charging phones too, 6ft detachable cable
Google 60W USB-C charger|$59.99|Google Store|Bundled with Chromebook Pixel 2, great for laptops, very long 12ft cable
Apple 61W USB-C charger|$69|Amazon US, Apple|Bundled with 2016 13" MacBook Pro, no cable included
Apple 87W USB-C charger|$79|Amazon US, Apple|Bundled with 2016 15" MacBook Pro, no cable included
RAVPower 26800mAh USB-PD battery|$74.99|Amazon US|Might charge much slower unless you turn off the Switch before plugging it in. Avoid the included bad AC adapter.

Here are some other links for the Pixel phone charger: Best Buy, UK version

---------

Good

Charger|Price (USD)|Link|Notes
--|--|--|--
Motorola TurboPower USB-C 15|$15.99|Amazon US|Non-detachable 5ft cable
SONEic 15W USB-C|$19.99|Amazon US|Detachable 3ft cable
HORI Switch car charger|$19.99|Amazon US|Probably the best car charger for now
Google 22.5W Dual Port USB-C charger|$39.99|Google Store|Two USB-C ports, includes one detachable 6ft cable
RAVPower 20100mAh USB-C battery|$57.99|Amazon US|
Apple 12W iPad USB charger|$19.99|Amazon US, Apple|Requires a USB A-to-C cable, better than any other USB-A chargers

--------

Cables

I won't list prices here since they fluctuate a lot. Some of the chargers listed above have a non-removable cable. All the others (except the iPad charger) require a USB C-to-C cable.

USB C-to-C: For the Macbook, Google, SONEic, and battery pack chargers listed above. Here are a few on Amazon: AmazonBasics,
Anker, Cable Matters, Aukey.

USB A-to-C: The iPad charger is the only one that gives good charging speeds with these. The 5ft cable included with the Pro Controller works. Here are some others on Amazon: AmazonBasics, Anker, Cable Matters, Aukey.

No matter which charger you use, it doesn't matter whether the cable says it's USB 2.0, USB 3.0, or USB 3.1. They all charge at the same speed. Just make sure it has the correct plug shape on each end, that it has good reviews at a reputable merchant, and that it's long enough for how you want to use it.

I've used quite a few different chargers with my MacBook and MacBook Pro. Yes, a 3A charger for a phone or Chromebook will work fine to charge it overnight or keep it topped up while you work under most scenarios. If you're running VMs, software builds or video editing, the Pro will eat more than 12W and you'll be at a minor deficit but it I'll get you those extra hours. I've also used the MacBook 30W charger (with a PlugBug for travel) with the Pro.

My favorite chargers now, though, are the Anker USB bricks with a type C port on them for travel and home. I use the 40W for travel. It only drives the 3A/12W on the C port but it is nice to have the other ports to charge a phone, headphones, watch and spare battery. Then I keep the 60W version at my nightstand. The USB port on that drives 30W (verified with the System Information app). I use their USB C cable as well. It doesn't do 3.0 transfer speeds but for charging it is perfectly fine and super durable.

Here are some accessories I use and love.

Cables:

[6' long USB A to C](http://www.Anker.com/ PowerLine+ USB-C to USB 3.0 cable (6ft), High Durability, for USB Type-C Devices Including the new MacBook, ChromeBook Pixel, Nexus 5X, Nexus 6P, Nokia N1 Tablet, OnePlus 2 and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LNAAEJ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_SD1PybKFCP918)

[6' long USB C to C cable](http://www.Anker.com/ PowerLine+ C to C 2.0 cable (6ft), High Durability, for USB Type-C Devices Including the new MacBook, ChromeBook Pixel, Nexus 5X, Nexus 6P, OnePlus 2 and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LNA0XCU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mG1Pyb59S4SK0)

Charger:

[5 port (1 C and 4 A) charger](http://www.Anker.com/ USB Type-C 40W 5-Port USB Wall Charger, PowerPort 5 for iPhone 7 / 6s / Plus, iPad Pro / Air 2 / mini, Galaxy S7 / S6 / Edge / Plus, Note 5 / 4, LG, Nexus, HTC and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196JFWXK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JH1PybWXH9ZMT)

That 5 port charger has been amazing. It is routinely use to charge a combination of my daughter's tablet, my Pixel, my wife's iPhone 7 Plus, my Xbox One Controller, mine and my wife's Kindles, and random devices from visitors with no problem. It has charged tablet and both phones simultaneously without any issue and at a very normal rate. I also use my OEM wall charger in the bedroom and the OEM Nexus 6P charger for travel.

Cases:

[Caseology Paralac](http://www.Google.com/ Pixel Case, Caseology [Parallax Series] Modern Slim Geometric Design [Black] [Textured Grip] for Google Pixel (2016) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M4HN5XV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_iL1Pyb58J56Y8). This is my work case ( I work 7 days on and 7 days off so I use it every other week) and feels and looks great but isn't as thin as I'd prefer. I generally prefer no case or just a dBrand skin.

This is my home/out and about case. [The Spigen Ultra Hybrid clear.](http://www.Spigen.com/ Ultra Hybrid Google Pixel Case with Air Cushion Technology and Hybrid Drop Protection for Google Pixel 2016 - Crystal Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LX6CDHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6M1Pyb6KC420F)

Honorable mention if you want the thinnest case (note: This case won't fit over a dBrand skin.) [Niilken Nature series. ](http://www.Google.com/ Pixel Case, Nillkin Nature Series Clear Soft TPU Case Back Cover [Ultra Thin] [Slim Fit] for Google Pixel - Grey https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N8VGLYK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DO1PybYSP36XD)

I also found these [Yootech glass screen protectors](http://www.Google.com/ Pixel Screen Protector [5.0"] [2-Pack] [Update Version],Yootech Google Pixel Tempered Glass Screen Protector for Google Pixel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MPY1RPC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oP1Pyb5Y22PEZ) to be more than good enough but they cover screen only and not full front (supposedly due to the subtle curvature of the fines edge).


Of course you can never go wrong with a nice dBrand skin for that finishing touch.


Hope this helps.

Assuming you have a phone with a USB-C port (unlike OP), the answer is... probably.

Make sure you find a quality, thick cable. I bought a well reviewed Spigen one that worked great, but it was only 1m. You'll have to look more carefully for a longer cable, since the increase in length leads to an increase in amperage resistance, which results in slower charging.

That's why phones usually come with shorter cables in the box.

Edit: This one looks like it'd work great, seems to put out the maximum 2.4a that USB A is capable of.

Try to see if it charges your phone. Make sure you're using at least a 2A power supply my first one didn't provide power and I contacted Inateck directly and they sent me a second one for free--I didn't even have to return the old one (hell, I could have just lied but honest to god it didn't work). The OTG worked great, so I can still use it for my phone if I don't need to simultaneously charge it. So I'd try to contact them directly. Through their site you can find a link to contact them on Facebook Messenger.
I've had two and neither charge my phone or provide power to the PSC (used a 2.0A power supply). I know it has worked for plenty of people here so it leads me to believe something about their design has changed. It makes me wonder why the support person from Inateck believed it should work too. Maybe it's supposed to but they've fudged something up in their design; or maybe it actually changed considering on Amazon it says it doesn't provide power. Either way, I've been using this https://www.amazon.com/AuviPal-Micro-USB-Cable-Power/dp/B07FY9Z9GD and it works perfect. I hadn't tested the second Inateck when I first wrote this comment; I thought I had but I just double checked now and indeed it doesn't work either.

Yeah it was between the front intake and the GPU. So was very much in the way. I had 2 free fan slots so I just picked up 2 inexpensive 120 mm fans from the local store and installed them.

What case do you have? The manual or the manufactures website will almost certainly tell you what size fans it takes.

If you have any free fan slots then filling those would be the easiest to do. Check if your mobo has enough free connectors for plugging in the fans. Otherwise a fan splitter or molex adapter could be an option.



If you have no free slots avalible, then upgrading them with a better/newer fan might be the way to go. I am however not the guy to give you advise on what fans to get.

I've used similar converters, but never with a CRT. It looks like the monitor doesn't quite like the sync coming off of the converter.
 
For CRT monitor use, I've had good luck with this little Tendak one and I know a few other people that have used them with good results. And as a bonus, the design of it makes it easy to leave attached to the monitor.

I recently got set up and will do my best to pay forward the help I received

otg cable - this provides power and a usb flash drive connection

flash drive - likely a better one but this is the one i got

bleemsync installation steps See section "How in install from fresh (Including OTG setup)"

autobleem download - I used autobleem-0.6.0-B3-RetroBoot.zip

you'll wanna start with getting OTG support using bleemsync, then save your backup folder in a secure location off your flash drive, re-format your flash drive, then copy over the autobleem files


then add games to games folder and roms to roms folder :)

As explained elsewhere in the thread, USB ports do have a bandwidth limit - you can't just use hubs to run an infinite number of devices simultaneously off a single port. Think of how much video data needs to flow through that single cable at the base of the Christmas tree every second...

Anyway, in response to your edit: yes, running a cable from the motherboard header may indeed help. You need more actual USB host controllers, not just more sockets, and the unused headers on your motherboard may provide that. No point installing additional USB controllers on a PCIe slot if you aren't making full use of the controllers on the motherboard.

Now, I don't know the internal configuration of your motherboard; there might be whole controllers you aren't using and there might just be an on-board hub. lsusb -t can help with that, as it will show you if there are any totally empty buses.

In case you didn't know, the header on the motherboard will use a different type of connector, and you'll need an adaptor a bit like this, or this if you want to make it neat. I'm not necessarily recommending those specific products, just showing you what they should look like. Note the different styles of header connector for USB2 and USB3.

Each header should support two USB ports without using any hubs, so with your motherboard you can gain six extra ports beyond those on the rear IO panel.

However, is there any chance of you telling us what you are ultimately trying to achieve here? I'm getting the feeling there might be an easier way...

You can go cheap on the opening tools without being penalized.
Laptops and the like aren't cars - they don't require tons of force but you DO need the right bits and/or shims to get them open without stripping heads or damaging plastics.
Something similar to this which has a bunch of bits, magnetized pickup, and "guitar" style plastic pry tools should do fine.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073ZWY386/ref=twister_B07FMWPBKN

A portable multimeter is always useful, I like the ones that fold in on themselves so you can throw them in a bag.
https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Multimeter-Ranging-Pocket-Tester/dp/B06Y4RZY45

Get some Cat5e clips, put them in a ziploc, and throw them in your bag along with a crimping tool, needle nose pliers, and wire stripper. You will be surprised how often you need to re-crimp a cable or make a new one on-site.
Note - if you don't know how to make a cable, definitely practice that first!

Get an ethernet/phone continuity tester. You don't need a Fluke CableIQ (they're nice though!) but a basic continuity tester will let you (laboriously) trace any ethernet jacks that need tracing. And you can test those cables you just made or just fixed.
I have one basically identical to this and I've used it for over 10 years now I think. Money well spent.
https://www.amazon.com/Tonor-RJ45-Network-Cable-Tester/dp/B00OUFX38W

As mentioned before, something to read a drive(s).
Any multi sd-card reader will do but instead of a dock you may want something like this since it is more portable. Yet another thing I've had for over 5 years and used countless times.
https://www.amazon.com/AGPtek-Drive-Adapter-Converter-External/dp/B00BIE996S

I actually used the USB cable that was attached to my Razer Blackwidow Keyboard LOL, I’m pretty sure it was USB 2.0 and it worked totally fine. I could not seem to find 3.0 options when I was searching to purchase one a few days ago so I ordered a 2.0 one from Amazon. The keyboard cable was the only USB to Mini-B cable I had in the house.

This is the best one I could find (and surely better than my keyboard cable which worked without issue):

AmazonBasics USB 2.0 Cable - A-Male to Mini-B Cord - 6 Feet (1.8 Meters) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11N5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_t9j5CbWWYGVSN

You need an A-Male to Mini-B USB cable like this.

As far as sims, here's ones I've personally tried, in order from favorite to least favorite.


DRL - Free

Velocidrone - Free trial

FPV Freerider/FPV Freerider Recharged - Think there's a free trial, but it's like $10-15

Liftoff - $14

There's plenty others. Hotprops looks nice, but I wasn't able to get my Taranis working with it. I haven't had a lot of time with Velocidrone, but it could easily take my #1 spot since it incorporates Betaflight's logic. There's also several other non-free sims that I haven't had a chance to try. If anyone else has input, feel free to continue the thread.

> Thank you again for the reply and the feedback.

No problem, glad I could help!

> I have two follow up questions: 1: How much would changing from a HDD to a SSD disk contribute to a less noisy computer?

It depends; in a case like this, it may help. However, I'd buy an SSD just for the massively decreased boot/load times for anything loaded on it.

> 2: How difficult is it to replace the already included fans?

Very easy, all you have to do is unplug them from the motherboard and unscrew the old ones, then reverse the process to install new ones. You'll need a splitter like this one, though, to be able to use both pre-installed case fans with your motherboard, and you won't be able to use more than two fans (even with the splitter), unless you replace the splitter with a fan hub (like this).

Hope this helps, and feel free to ask any more questions!

I ordered some Tendak converters on amazon a couple weeks ago, they've been working out nicely for me setting up my wii U to a monitor via VGA. I actually ordered two different models, one can stick to the console and connect via vga cable and the other can stock to the monitor and connect via hdmi cable. Both seem to work fine but cannot do 1080p, only 720p. There's some horizontal fuzziness but it is not noticeable from a distance or when actively playing something.

Tendak Active 1080P Female HDMI to VGA Male Converter Adapter Dongle with 3.5mm Stereo Audio portable HDMI Connector for Laptop PC PS3 Xbox STB Blu-ra https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B7CEOVK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_yJgMJoLLNjfuP

Tendak Gold-Plated Active HD 1080P HDMI to VGA Converter Adapter Dongle with 3.5mm Audio for Laptop PC Projector HDTV PS3 Xbox STB Blu-ray DVD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VTJVJ3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_XUVOnGwkhLvOD

I would say if the picture quality is more important, then you would be ahead to get an hdmi switch. I ordered these for other reasons - I wanted to be able to use some extra monitors for Halo 3/reach LAN parties, not as primary/solo gaming displays.

I assume you're referring to the USB Type-C connector. I can imagine that if your last phone was a few years old that this is new, but it's been around for quite a while. There are tons of places online to order these cables from.

I always recommend Anker branded cables, they have been giving me the most consistent and high quality experience for a while now.

I order them from Amazon, and they come in different lengths. You said you'd like a longer cable, so here are the 6 ft cables and 10 ft cables (respectively) that I myself use.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01E9W8KYC/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1518313196&sr=8-12&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=anker+usb+c+cable

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MZIPYPY/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1518313196&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=anker+usb+c+cable&psc=1

Hopefully this helps, if you have any questions I'd be glad to answer them.

Either an HDMI->VGA DAC or a DP->VGA DAC is what you'd be after.

The former are cheaper for the most part, but not really capable of more than 1080p60(and it's 4:3 equivalent) to 1200p60(more so it's 4:3 equivalent UXGA). You'd need to move to a displayport based offering such as certain offerings from Sunix or Delock to go higher than that. Admittedly, that monitor won't be able to max out the latter, but is in the weird middle ground of "capable of more than the HDMI adapters but not quite high end enough to heavily justify the DP options".

This is the HDMI->VGA I usually recommend; https://www.amazon.com/Portta-3-5mm-Audio-Converter-support/dp/B003O55U8K/

I like it specifically because of the option to use an external power supply, which will allow it to work with devices which might not supply enough power over HDMI to run it that way; Stuff like Raspberry Pi and such especially.

https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Converter-Adapter-Portable-Connector/dp/B01B7CEOVK/

This is also another well recommended offering, especially if you don't need the external power option.

As for DP, this would be the go to for "I just need the higher spec'd DAC": https://www.ebay.com/itm/Delock-Adapter-DisplayPort-1-2-Stecker-VGA-Buchse-Adapter-Cable-Delock-NEU/133139481368

There are DisplayPort MST boxes that do more along with this, but if you just need something for your tube, it's not worth bothering with.

has a few "bubbles" in it? what does that mean?

OP wouldnt cover the cables, especially since you bought it secondhand, but good usb cables are pretty cheap. A cable like this would work great for your phone: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerLine-Resistor-Including-ChromeBook/dp/B01E9W8KYC/

> The motherboard only has DVI-D and not DVI-I, meaning I can't just plug in a DVI to VGA adapter on it and use two analog-only displays (which is becoming a less and less common occurrence, but still happens)

Add one of these?

> The G3250 iGPU is newer but has a much lower clock speed than what the G2020 had, not sure how that will impact performances (the TDP is an improvement over the G2020 still, which is a great thing for this compact machine)

You might be able to find a cheap, used, T-Series i3 which will be a great improvement in TDP and be a iGPU upgrade over both.

This is the cable I just bought while I'm waiting for the official to be released.
It's an A to C 3m cable

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07D7NNJ61?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details

I paired it with this 90° adapter so it's not sticking out of the headset sideways.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B078YRKTKM?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details

The only difference between this cable and a C to C besides the connection lol .. is the fact that the USB A port can't supply as much power as the USB C can.

The one I bought can supply a max of 1.5A where the other can supply 3A which is what the quest mains plug supplies .. basically means the 1.5A cable will extend the battery life but won't supply enough to keep it charged .

Also C to C cables start to ramp up in price once you hit 2m for a good quality one and I didn't want to spend a huge amount if I'm getting the official one later.

Here is a 1.8m C to C cable but I thought that was a little too short , anything after that size either didn't charge or was costly.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07D7RWPWF/?coliid=I17IZSS4765L7&colid=10E26L74TZCMS&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Hope that at least helps you a little 😁

Get Touch. It'll be the best $99 you ever spent.

Touch actually comes with $50 of free games (Robo Recall + Dead and Buried) and $60 of free creativity apps (Oculus Medium + Quill) - so it's incredibly good value!

---

No, you can't use a splitter with the Rift. Get a DisplayPort to HDMI cable for your 2nd monitor and have the Rift plugged directly into the HDMI

I'm still waiting for my Rift actually, it arrives in another week, so not sure yet. But if you'd like I can report back when I get everything setup.

10m Active USB.3.0 Extensions (for front sensors)

3m USB 3.0 Extension (for HMD)

3m HDMI Extension (for HMD)

HDMI to DP Adapter (For GPU)

USB 3.0 PCI-E Card (to power the 10m active extensions)

I've read good things about all of these, with a lot of success stories. Hopefully all goes well on my end.

I don't think you necessarily need a powered extension cable (within a certain distance) for the Link to work.

I have the recommended 10ft variant of the Anker cable and I attempted to use an active 3.0 extension cable 10 meters in length (the older version of this cable, which I was previously using to extend the reach of my CV1) with it... and it worked just fine. Actually, it worked better because I finally got audio after I added the extension.

If you attempt a 3.0 extension cable, just find one that's active or, even better, one that's active and has the ability to be powered and you should be fine! (I have a feeling that WalMart cable wouldn't be compatible)

I agree, for many reasons. OP, if you go this route make sure you get a good component to VGA transcoder that doesn't add lag or degrade the signal horribly. I would highly recommend you get the Open Source Scan Converter (OSSC) and this Tendak HDMI-to-VGA stick (it's the best known HDMI-to-VGA for OSSC users), and then try to find a good VGA CRT. This is a really fantastic way of doing the VGA CRT thing. I can give you more info on this route if you are interested OP.

So your longest cable is the one between the pc and coupler I’m guessing? Whatever the 25 ft one is I would replace with active. The others should be fine if passive. I use the 4K cable I linked for my projector and is a good option but the redmere cable is what I used for my Vive.

I didn’t use the camera so USB 2 was fine for me and the USB 3 couplers were all pretty crappy at the time. I didn’t need to plug any external power into the USB cable but got that one just in case I needed the extra juice.

4K/60 HDMI

HDMI I used with OG Vive

Active USB Cable

You may want to start with new couplers first. I’ve had good luck with Monoprice and you could buy a HDMI, usb 2 and usb 3 one all for under 10 dollars off Amazon.

I'm told this is a good converter, I don't have it yet: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B7CEOVK

I used to LOVE my ViewSonic monitor back in the day.

Copied a bit from a prior post: Now get a Component to VGA transcoder and hook up your 480p+ systems as well (Xbox, Wii, etc). 360 does VGA. Dreamcast does VGA. They look great.

Another nice trick is to go at 120hz x 320x240 on emulators at the (native resolutions, double refresh) - it's a 31khz signal, so you'll get scanlines and all sorts of goodness.

Oh man, i had the same question for weeks. I decided to buy the Google Pixel charger and with no doubt in my mind is the absolutely best charger for the Switch. Get it!.

The other "problem" was the USB C cable. I ordered 2, one from Amazon Basics and one from Anker. Those are the best. I really really like the Amazon Basics cable, is the one im using with my Google Pixel. The Anker cable has better quality (well, not really. Is just sturdier) but is double the cost (I bought it so i can have one to use with my Power Bank). If you only need it for the Pixel then get the Amazon Basics cable.

Hope that helps!

Thanks. FYI I think this is the officially recommended one:

https://www.amazon.ca/Anker-PowerLine-Pull-up-Resistor-Samsung/dp/B01MZIPYPY/ref=sr_1_3

Although your braided one might be a little nicer for flexibility. Also FYI, active extensions are working so you could probably use one of those to set up your ceiling suspension. You might need to tape the two cables together to make sure they don't come unplugged.

• Item Name: Logitech MX Anywhere 2 Wireless Mobile Mouse / Logitech Bluetooth Illuminated Keyboard K810
  
• Manufacturer: Logitech
  
• Surface Model: SP4
  
• Price: $59.99 / $80.43
  
• Why you like/dislike it: Small form factor, no extra receiver needed since both are bluetooth, reasonable battery life. Only issue I have faced so far is sometimes the keyboard/mouse doesn't get detected when the device wakes up. Probably a Windows issue. Resolved after reboot.
  
• Can we read you Reddit handle on show: Y
  ____
  
  
• Item Name: Microsoft Wireless Display Adapter v2
  
• Manufacturer: Microsoft
  
• Surface Model: SP4
  
• Price: $49.95
  
• Why you like/dislike it: Likes it because of the wireless display capability. Works reliably almost all the time. There were a few cases when it didn't connect in the first attempt.
  
• Can we read you Reddit handle on show: Y
  ____
  
  
• Item Name: Stickerboy Skin
  
• Manufacturer: Stickerboy
  
• Surface Model: SP4
  
• Price: $39.95
  
• Why you like/dislike it: Easy to apply. Protects the device from scratches. No cons so far.
  
• Can we read you Reddit handle on show: Y
  ____
  
  
• Item Name: Truman Sleeve
  
• Manufacturer: Incipio
  
• Surface Model: SP4
  
• Price: $39.99
  
• Why you like/dislike it: Seems to offer a reasonable protection during traveling. Not too bulky. No cons so far.
  
• Can we read you Reddit handle on show: Y
  ____
  
  
• Item Name: Cable Matters DisplayPort to HDMI Adapter
  
• Manufacturer: Cable Matters
  
• Surface Model: SP4
  
• Price: $19.99
  
• Why you like/dislike it: Nothing in particular except that it works reliably with my monitor and Surface dock.
  
• Can we read you Reddit handle on show: Y
  ____
  
  
• Item Name: Creative Sound Blaster Roar v1
  
• Manufacturer: Creative
  
• Surface Model: SP4
  
• Price: $99.99
  
• Why you like/dislike it: Good sound, bluetooth, small size, reasonable battery life
  
• Can we read you Reddit handle on show: Y
  _____
  
  I regularly use my Surface with the display adapter, BT keyboard/mouse/speaker to watch videos on my TV. Truly wireless!

Yeah, the cable is way too short for my situation. The Vive's cable is 5m... after the 1m of cables to the link box. My desktop sits a few feet behind me on the floor and my play area is off to the side. When I first plugged in my Odyssey I could barely even do room setup. Cable length is a big weak spot in MR for cases like mine.

I bought the 10m version of this USB 3.0 extension and used a female-to-female HDMI coupler with a 15' HDMI cable. I haven't tested extensively but so far it seems to work pretty well.

[EDIT] To directly answer your question: no, there are no proprietary cables. There's not even a power cable, which is pretty great!

Is working great with this Amazon Basics 3m cable. Am really impressed by the quality of Link!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07D7NNJ61

Update: I tried adding a 1m USB3 extension cable into the mix and that didn't work.

Update to my update, I tried it with an active 5m extention cable and it worked. It isn't on Amazon UK any more, but the description was:
CableCreation Gold (Long 16FT) Super Speed USB 3.0 Active Extension Cable, USB 3.0 Extender USB A-Male to A-Female Cable, 5Meter/16ft, Black

It sounds like all you really need are a USB and HDMI extension cable. These would be for the monitor and peripherals in your office.

30ft kinda pushes the limits for USB and HDMI. Regular cables can work, but not always, and you might get signal dropout or other issues.

I would recommend spending a bit more on "active" cables that will boost signals and enable reliable longer runs.

30ft Active USB cable:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00DMFFL2W

30ft Active HDMI cable:

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=12959

You should probably also get a powered USB hub so that you have multiple USB ports to work with in your office:

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Charging-Storage-Devices/dp/B014ZQ07NE/

Sorry for the late reply - work.

Bleemsync 1.1 with OTG capability added using USB loaded directly into controller port 2.

I use this USB:

Samsung MUF-128AB/AM FIT Plus... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D7PDLXC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Plug USB into PC and format into FAT32, name it SONY. Move Bleemsync files to USB. Unplug, plug into UNPLUGGED PSC controller port 2. Plug in PSC and allow it to update the console. It will backup the console details and update kernel data. Once done, unplug PSC, remove USB and plug into PC again. SAVE ALL OF THIS SOMEWHERE, MULTIPLE PLACES. Move 1 specific file over to USB, plug back into port 2 on unplugged PSC, plug in PSC, allow it to update. When it shuts down in like 60 seconds it’s all done.

The above takes all of like 10 minutes for this entire process. Then you can plug your USB into this:

AuviPal 2-in-1 Micro USB Cable... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FY9Z9GD?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

No power mod required. Just a pass through.

I deleted Bleemsync after and added Autobleem 0.6b3 which now includes Retroarch, now I boot into Autobleem directly.

https://i.imgur.com/NKU13TY.jpg


This is probably the “best” tutorial. If you need help, let me know.

https://youtu.be/uyy7HRNHVz4

Finally, here’s the (current) setup, it’ll change I’m sure (don’t mind the yelling kid in the background or the potato quality, I’m no streamer...)

https://youtu.be/cllOdquuKR0

I'm a strong advocate for DeX sort of setups. I honestly the future will be like this. Microsoft started with Continuum, which I enjoyed with Lumias 950 back then. But DeX is another level.

You can do so much with it really. I even tried playing games with a small bluetooth controller, all works superb.

 

My setup is a Dex station at work, connected to a HP 24" monitor.

I am using a bluetooth keyboard and mouse and this adapter:
This is the one I got: https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Samsung-Station-Experience-Nintendo/dp/B078W4RXGR/

Note: Ensure you have the fast charging ac adaptor or any high power charger really, otherwise it won't work.

 

For the road & travel,

I got myself a HP X3 Lap Dock, sort of a dumb terminal you can plug your Note9 and use the screen and keyboard
LapDock -

 

this video also explains it better:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M2NHeUVX_EI

Honestly the whole "apple supported" shtick is just a marketing thing to get u to buy their 100$ cable. Regardless, their specs sheet doesn't say you need their adapter, just a adapter (sold separately). An active adapter is usually all you need to remedy situations like this.

However you're using quite the many adapters so Instead of going thru all the prerequisites for each fail point, and because you're going to have to buy a new adapter or cable either way. The easiest no hassle solution would be to eliminate DVI and everything in between to achive DVI and to just do a straight run via mini DP to HDMI via an active adapter.

Active mini DP to HDMI female

Then all you need is an HDMI 1.3 cable to go from the adapter to the ultrawide monitor, which should have been included with the monitor. :)

My gf revealed that I'm getting an early birthday present and that it's a vive. That's good because now I'm doing research on how I'm going to set mine up. I'm looking at getting a long USB and HDMI cable to run downstairs from my main PC since my HTPC isn't powerful enough. The distance is approximately 9 meters (~30 feet). Seems like an active USB extender and Active HDMI cable would be fine for that distance. Unless USB over Ethernet would be better.

Another question is: if I take the mini display port on the link box and plug it into a TV (with an HDMI adapter or something) would it display anything? Would like my TV to show what the Vive is seeing so people can watch. But if that doesn't work I'll just use the steam streaming.

Edit: list of products I'm looking at, if anyone has opinions on it.
USB extender https://amzn.com/B00DMFFL2W
HDMI Cable https://amzn.com/B0186H2JMA
USB over Ethernet https://amzn.com/B01FHTCH68

Which cooler do you have? I'm using the H100i V2 and it has a fan cable coming out of the cpu block, i connect my two fans using the splitter that came with it, like one of these [here] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Akasa-AK-CBFA04-15-Splitter-Cable-Fans/dp/B005FWXWPS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1491068202&sr=8-2&keywords=fan+splitter)

So just like the stock fans are already connected to the block to the CPU FAN connector, you just do the same with the new fans, really really simple. - When you disconnect your two current stock fans, just put the new fan cables into the same place you disconnected them from.

If the back fan is the exhaust fan I would say go for the AF ones, which is what they're or very high airflow over a large area. Good luck!

If you want DIY, that's fine. If you want a readymade solution, I think you have two options:

I have one of those suckers: Works fine. If you want a neatly put together HAT, I recommend the Google AIY voice kit you can get from Target that comes with a very good DAC and it comes with a Pi 0 WH as well.

OTG Adapters for the NES/SNES Classic:
Inateck:
https://www.rakuten.com/shop/inateck/product/HB3001G/
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Inateck-3-Port-USB-2-0-OTG-Hub-Adapter-Cable-SD-Card-Reader-for-Smartphone/602986265
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00OCBXIY8?tag=echo10-20
Note: Only the USB 2.0 version is compatible with the NES/SNES Classic out of the box. You would need an adapter for the USB-C version to connect to the NESC/SNESC, and whether it actually would work is currently unknown.

Also, be aware that it uses its own power cable instead of the NES/SNES Classic's USB cable, and it is very short (roughly 12-14 inches long).Consider getting an extension USB cable or using an extension cord.

TUSITA ("octopus" style): https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LTHBCNM?tag=echo10-20
This one has been reported as working for many people, but can also reportedly break easily.

Simpler OTGs:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FY9Z9GD?tag=echo10-20
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JCZ2FQQ?tag=echo10-20
OTGs like these have only one port for USB. A simple choice if you only want to use USB and not wifi...or vice versa.

We do not recommend the small angled adapter featured on snesclassicmods.com and elsewhere. It looks great, but easily loses data connection at the slightest nudge.

Honestly I'd say look for a 1TB drive... I've purchased a lot of games (I think I've got maybe one free page on my menu before folders came out), and I'm no where close to filling my 1TB drive. After installing Xenoblade Chronicles X I dipped under 700GB free for the first time, so I'm sure I'll be fine with any other games that come out having space.

I've got an older Toshiba USB drive, and I'm using a Y-Cable to get power to it when I tote it around. Otherwise I've got it plugged into a USB hub so I've got free room in the back for my USB NIC, using a hub works just fine and I've not noticed any issues with it. (Also gives me something to have the gamecube adapter plugged into and tucked away easily)

Here's a cheap 1TB drive from Amazon (Any other drive you can find should work fine too) :
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R4O9M4A

And the Y-cable needed for power with no USB hub:
http://www.amazon.com/Insten-Micro-B-USB-Cable-Black/dp/B005M0ICG2

You can get a 50' active USB cable from Amazon for $20. I've had mind for three years now, and am currently using it with my Vive. Granted, it is only USB 2.0, but still. $65 is pretty steep.

Edit - looks like active USB 3.0 cables are around $35 for a 33' cable.

*RESPONSE: I tried it, and video and audio work 100% beautifully using the HDMI port on my 360 with a Cable Matters Active HDMI to VGA adapter, and a VGA cable AND a 1/8" stereo audio cable plugged into my TV. 1920x1080 auto-detected and it looks really good. That's a win.

Not in my experience, but we've all got brand preferences. If you're worried about an Asus, I'm sure there are other comparably priced and powered laptops out there from other brands (probably even Dell) that have a VGA port.

And really? A VGA port? Do you really need one? You can't carry one of these if that's one of your requirement?

Because if you don't need a VGA port, here's a Dell for $649 that has the previous generation processor, but comes with 8GB of RAM and a a 256GB SSD, EACH of which will individually make a MUCH bigger performance difference than the processor will. And that's what I found when I limited myself to Dell computers only and was still unwilling to put more than 2 minutes in to the search.

Including the $175 for a 3 year accident protection plan/extended warranty and the $10 for the adapter, we're still only at $834 for a significantly better machine with a significantly better warranty. On a corporate level though, the extended warranty probably doesn't make sense. Since we're (presumably) buying a whole bunch of these, we should just make sure we're putting it on one of our corporate credit cards that doubles the one year warranty that comes with it, and for the few that break between years 2 and 3 in ways that we can't easily fix in house, we just call it a loss and buy a newer nicer machine with the money we saved on all of those 3-year warranties we didn't buy.

Depending on your computer placement you might need a usb3 extension cable for one of your sensors, your 3rd sensor you purchased comes with one but I needed a second one for my other sensor due to placments. This is also option but I grabbed a 10ft HDMI and 10FT usb3 extension cable fro my headset as well to help give me better range with more slack. Also some camera mounts for mounting your sensors on the walls helps alot.

For referance these are what I ordered, im in Canada so these are all Canadian links so you may need to find your local equivalent

10ft USB 3 extension cables (I use two of them, one to extend a sensor and oen for my hmd)
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

10ft HDMI extension for my hmd
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B004C4SECG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wall mounts for my sensors
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B072KGHX8X/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And because I had a lack of proper USB 3 ports on my computer I needed a PCI to usb 3 expansion card
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00ME7454O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Minor issue at first with my DP to HDMI adaptor, but swiftly sorted. (https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00Z05JMKO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

I was getting frustrated with doing all my planning on the laptop's display, so I thought I'd treat myself. Massively happy with £170 for this.

Cheers to the sub for providing the inspiration!

Sounds like the drive isn't always getting enough power (USB 2 power < USB 3 power) - because compatibility issues between the 2 basically shouldn't happen unless the device has extra drivers it needs.

I haven't read you mention the size of the passport, but I see this regularly with any external drive over 1TB.

Sometimes, the issue is the USB cable itself, not passing on the power as efficiently as before. Often the drive will still seem to start up and spin, but simply doesn't get all the juice it needs to "boot up" all the way.

When a drive isn't getting enough power, a common occurrence is a soft clicking sound because the plates' headers keep alternating between "Read mode" and "idle mode".

Possible solutions:

• Replace the USB cable. If you only have "cheap ones", try buying a higher quality name brand cable. This might give the drive enough power over USB 2
  
  
• Ezramore made a good suggestion with the USB Y cable, which lets you plug in 2 USB's into the computer for some extra power. I would not suggest trying to make one yourself, you'll easily run into the same "lack of power" issue (unless you're just really good with wiring)
  
  
• It could be the contacts of the enclosure not passing the power through properly (when it's on an underpowered USB 2 port) - You could consider removing the bare drive from the passport enclosure and installing it into an empty enclosure. At this point you could also consider getting an enclosure with its own PSU since it might be the drive itself trying to pull too much power

I also bought a 3m amazon basics USB A 3.01 - C cable (UK), and it seems to work pretty well from half an hour in Vader Immortal last night. The only issue I came across was crackly sound sometimes when using force powers. And the 3D audio from the headset speakers seemed... off...

I'm not sure if those audio issues are down to the cable or something software/PC hardware side. Has anyone else had a similar issue?

Everything else seemed great though :)

I read that the GTX 1070 is the first card with a DVI port that doesn't also output analog video. With all previous generations, you can convert DVI to VGA with a cheap adapter. But with the new NVidia cards, you'll need a different adapter. I haven't used one of these, but surely it's worth a shot. It certainly ought to perform better than integrated graphics.

Looks good! The only thing I noticed is that your motherboard only has 2 case fan connectors, but the 500R comes with 4 fans.
You'll need two of these splitters if you want to use all of the fans.

A fan controller like this works too.

Also, many people find 27" to be too large of a screen for 1080p. I would recommend 24" unless you have reasons otherwise.

I'm really confused on which cables to buy. I looked at the wiki and thread and I'm not even sure if I need USB 2 or 3.

So far in my cart:

Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Active Extension Cable 10 Meters/32.8 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMFFL2W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Bmkqxb9XQSP4J

Monoprice Active Select Series High-Speed HDMI Cable 30 Feet with RedMere Technology Supports Ethernet, 3D, 4K and Audio Return - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008D5EU6E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ankqxb5E49AJS

Will these work? So many conflicting success / failure posts.

Also do you extend from the PC to the breakout box? Or extend from the breakout box?

I wish HTC / Valve would bless what cables are compatible.


Thanks.

or you could've just copied the list here...

OTG Adapters for the NES/SNES Classic: Inateck:
https://www.rakuten.com/shop/inateck/product/HB3001G/
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Inateck-3-Port-USB-2-0-OTG-Hub-Adapter-Cable-SD-Card-Reader-for-Smartphone/602986265
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OCBXIY8
Note: Only the USB 2.0 version is compatible with the NES/SNES Classic out of the box. You would need an adapter for the USB-C version to connect to the NESC/SNESC, and whether it actually would work is currently unknown.

Also, be aware that it uses its own power cable instead of the NES/SNES Classic's USB cable, and it is very short (roughly 12-14 inches long).Consider getting an extension USB cable or using an extension cord.

TUSITA ("octopus" style): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LTHBCNM
This one has been reported as working for many people, but can also reportedly break easily.

Simpler OTGs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FY9Z9GD
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JCZ2FQQ
OTGs like these have only one port for USB. A simple choice if you only want to use USB and not wifi...or vice versa.

We do not recommend the small angled adapter featured on snesclassicmods.com and elsewhere. It looks great, but easily loses data connection at the slightest nudge.

If I observed correctly; you are trying to connect a vga monitor to a laptop with only hdmi. If that’s the case then you’ll need an adaptor “VGA female / HDMI male” and they are usually cheap.
I have one myself, which I bought on Amazon for 8 USdlls a year ago and still works pretty good. It’s easy to use and small enough to let me connect stuff on the sides (USB and Ethernet)

This is the adaptor I bought
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016HL4CAY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_e-DgDbJN2PG6V

(Sry if the link doesn’t works, that’s the one Amazon gave me for sharing, here’s the name of the adapter: “VicTsing HDMI to VGA Adapter Converter Gold-Plated for PC, Laptop, DVD, Desktop and Other HDMI Input Devices - Black”)

Sorry for taco English, not my main language and also I’m on mobile, sry sry

SCART cables can carry either a composite video signal, or RGB signals plus a combined horizontal+vertical sync signal (typically a composite video signal is used for sync). VGA is always RGB, and uses separate horizontal and vertical sync signals. Provided your SCART devices are using RGB and not just composite video, there's no fundamental difference in quality between that and VGA. They're both RGB, just in slightly different formats.

The practical difference is in resolution support. Most SCART devices only support a horizontal scan rate of 15.7 kHz, which means 240p60/288p50 or 480i60/576i50. Most VGA monitors only support horizontal scan rates of 31 kHz and above, so 480p60/576p50/400p70 and higher. Exceptions can be found on both sides, however.

For HDMI-to-VGA adapters, I'd recommend either this one or this one. I've used both, and they both seem to work just as well in most cases, with good picture quality and zero latency.

Here is a budget setup
1x HDMI Cable - https://amzn.com/B014I8TC4E
1x Logitech camera that will sit on top of your TV - https://amzn.com/B0040508OY
1x USB hub https://amzn.com/B00XMD7KPU that will plug into users PC
1x USB cable extension for Camera to USB hub - https://amzn.com/B00NH12O5I
1x Yeti microphone - https://amzn.com/B00N1YPXW2
1x USB Cable extension for Yeti microphone to USB hub - https://amzn.com/B00NH12O5I

Might have to get some stuff for cable management and get some cheap video adapters on Amazon, but this setup is like $300 max. Also, I would write up some good documentation and have it available in the room at all times. You will have to create some kind of documentation either way with any expensive solutions you find (Polycom trio, Logitech etc..).

Shoot that was my fault - I didnt check what connectors your psu had before recommending the gpu


Obviously the best way is to get a new psu, the evga 550/650 g2's come straight to mind, the corsair rmi/x (not plain rm) are also quite good.


Or otherwise you could just get an adapter, which although isn't as nice, will still work. http://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-PCIEX68ADAP-Express-6-Pin-Adapter/dp/B001TK3TJY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449531060&sr=8-1&keywords=8+pin+pcie+adapter

Something like this would work. Other companies sell this type of adapter, but I chose amazon because their shipping is fast :P


Or you could also just try, plug the 6 pin into the 8 pin, leaving the two other pins free (make sure you plug it in the right pins, do not force). If you cant boot, it doesnt have enough power and you'll have to either get the adapter or psu..

Had sorta this problem, 1070 has only one HDMI and my monitor only accepts HDMI. I bought a cord that was display port on one end and HDMI on the other and it worked perfectly for my monitor. Now the WMR headset stays plugged into the HDMI.

This is the one I got, I've always had better luck with these as opposed to traditional adapters - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Z05JMKO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fyh8BbRRV3VB6

Your MIL is a bitch, but you know that part.

On to the important part. Buy a new laptop. Then buy this: https://www.amazon.com/AGPtek-Drive-Adapter-Converter-External/dp/B00BIE996S/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1542401955&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=hard+drive+to+usb&dpPl=1&dpID=51ap6s9o3qL&ref=plSrch

These are amazing and super easy. Remove the old hard drive from the broken laptop. Plug it in. Pull all desired files onto new laptop. Lost files recovered. TADA!!!

Wow, BIG thanks for that bit of keyboard science! Depicting the disassembly is also really useful and complements the write-up in your review. I was actually wondering about this when I found out about the RK's internal port 1-2 months ago but this being such a niche within a niche, I never thought I'd get an answer, haha.

That USB connector looks similar to those that you would find on motherboards for the front panel USB ports, but with one row instead of two. Were the wire assignments labelled? Or would any adaptor work as long as it has 5 pins with matching colours? This one from Amazon only has 4 pins though I'm not sure how necessary that 5th pin is.

Only issue now is how to route the adaptor through that rear cable shield. From the pics, it looks like the shield is just slotted into place and can be lifted up? Otherwise I'd probably have to drill a hole through.

Suddenly ABKO has become a very viable option for me as it ticks so many boxes, except my preferred 75% layout and bluetooth (my endgame doesn't exist). Hopefully Topre steps up their game and starts offering more features. Not sure if I still want to wait for the V2 in 55g though, as now that I've tried the 660C and HHKB, I can say that the heavier Topre on the 660C isn't always preferable.

Not all power supplies are made the same power supply brands can put any label on any power supply regardless of what the guts are capable of.


I needed to know what exact power supply you have to make a call that wouldn't burn your house down


It's like saying your car with 4 wheels is making a funny sound from the left ,yeah so how do I help you if I don't know the details of what you have



Would you rather provide as much detail to your problem so you can be helped or not


Fsp ain't too bad so you can get this adapter


https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Express-Power-Adapter-PCIEX68ADAP/dp/B001TK3TJY


The extra 2 pins on a 6+2 cable are just extra ground pins you'll see on most 6+2 cables the +2 piece cables extend from 2 pins on the 6 pin side

I would like to share my experience with Link.

My motherboard has a both USB 3.1 gen 1 and USB 3.1 gen 2 port. I've tested Link with Anker PowerLine USB-A to USB-C (3m, 3.1 gen 2) that Oculus recommended and the CableCreation Active USB-A extension cable (5m,male to female USB-A).

When I tried Link with the Anker cable alone plugged into USB 3.1 gen 2 port, it worked well.

However when I used the CableCreation + Anker combo plugged into USB 3.1 gen 2 port, audio did not work properly.

Then I tried the above combo plugged into USB3.1 gen 1 port, they worked properly without problem.

Anker Powerline (Amazon JP), CableCreation Active Extension Cable (Amazon JP)

My PC:

MSI X470 Gaming Pro

Ryzen 7 3700X

nVidia Geforce RTX 2080

(I've filled in the survey.)

Got this working great with an amazon basics cable https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07D7NNJ61/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Works so well. My GPU is a 1070 and all is good thus far. what a great boost to the Quest to have access to full PC VR.

I actually just bought this LED strip off of Amazon. It isn't anything spectacular, but it fit my needs length wise and color. I only really wanted white in the beginning anyway. I just have it plugged into my motherboard with one of these. It works well and was much cheaper.

Not sure if this is where I should ask. I'm in Mexico and on amazon.com.mx this is cable I find which is only 6 feet and it costs around $35 usd so it's too pricey, I found this other one, would it work? It's still not ideal as it's only 6.6 feet but the price is only around $11 usd. Or someone that could help me find one that would work better.

Thanks.

That was it! I am able to use resolutions higher than 1920x1080 with an active mini display port to HDMI adapter, hope this helps. For reference, this is the adapter I purchased though I am sure any active adapter should be fine.

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Supporting-Technology/dp/B00PJ3LSIG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463459327&sr=8-1&keywords=active+minidisplayport+to+hdmi

HMD extension https://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-9-vr-extension-cable-black/5706844.p?skuId=5706844
Constellation sensor Active 3.0 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMFFL2W/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
These worked for me and my friend.
Edit: I run 4 constellation sensor and two will always say USB 2.0 connection though. The two connected as usb 3.0 is one without extension and one running on active 3.0. The ones running at usb 2.0 is extended with monoprice provided with the extra sensor and an active usb 2.0 extension.

Thanks for the input. I'm looking for something to replace my laptop so it being super tiny is really important.

I'm actually thinking of wiring up an internal USB WiFi module using a cable like this...

StarTech.com 6in USB 2.0 Cable - USB A Female to USB Motherboard 4 Pin Header F/F https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000IV6S9S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DIfdAb3RBGBWF

I don't know where you live so I'll just assume the best place you can buy from is Amazon. Just look for one HDMI->VGA converter like this, they tend to be cheaper than DVI->VGA.

Don't mistakenly buy VGA->HDMI because you are always looking for a converter and they are in the form of input->output.

This one should serve you good: https://www.amazon.com/VicTsing-Gold-Plated-Converter-Adapter-Desktop/dp/B016HL4CAY/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B016HL4CAY&pd_rd_r=GHWRZVY818CNSTSKZ9X4&pd_rd_w=T5yXg&pd_rd_wg=WVqE8&psc=1&refRID=GHWRZVY818CNSTSKZ9X4

Supposedly using this extension cable in combination with this A to C cable works according to one user. There's a very good chance these will be too thick to be comfortable to use while using the headset though.

I really would just recommend sticking with the 10 ft cable that Oculus recommend until they release their propietary 5m cable that's supposedly quite thin.

Here's a good USB Type-A to USB Type-C cable that supports USB 3.0 speeds: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01MZIPYPY

If you don't care about data and just care about charging, you can get by with a thinner/more flexible USB 2.0 cable that charges just as well, like this: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B019Q6Y2MK

I don't know if you have any local stores by you, but our local repair shops usually carry adapters. for instance, 1 6pin to 1 8pin adapter like this: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Express-Power-Adapter-PCIEX68ADAP/dp/B001TK3TJY

But depends on the PSU, if they are strong enough to power the card as well

HDMI via a booster and standard cable

Signal Booster (prevents picture dropout and headset screen going black)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01E14L5YA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Amazon Basics 3m HDMI Cable

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B014I8T0YQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB Via USB 3 3m passive extender . Can't remember the brand I bought but amazon basics ones are amazing quality. If they had been available when I ordered I would have got one of these. (3m passive cables are unreliable for sensors, but seem to work fine with my headset, prob because of the lower bandwidth required).

https://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-Male-Female-Extension-Cable/dp/B00NH12O5I/ref=sr_1_2?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1493135898&sr=1-2&keywords=3m+usb+3+extension+cable

I have been using this charger and yes, it does rapid charge the Pixel. It is pretty heavy for its size and seems to be very top quality: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G5B069C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use these cables with that charger and yes, the cables matter when it comes to rapid charging: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LNA0XCU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

CRT monitors likes this one will not accept any 240P input. You could plug in a dreamcast with VGA, but besides that you won't be able to hook much of anything into without an upscaler. The RetroTink 2X will line double 240p to 480p, which would work on that monitor. I would personally recommend getting an OSSC. The OSSC can line 2-5x up to 1080p which this monitor supports. If you run your consoles through the OSSC and then into this monitor via a tendak hdmi to vga adapter, all of your games would look amazing.

You can transfer saves, although you might need a PC and a couple cheap adapters to do it.

You need a card reader capable of reading the SD cards. Pretty much all laptops already have that built in, but for a desktop PC you'll want something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Transcend-Super-Multi-Card-Reader-TS-RDF8K/dp/B0056TYRMW/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1450062474&sr=1-6&keywords=card+reader

PSP memory sticks generally come with an SD card adapter as well, which you'll also need.

You insert the PSP memory stick into the SD card adapter, then insert that into the card reader on your PC. From there, your PC should automatically detect the memory stick as if it's an SD card, and you can copy the saves for any game to your PC. Once the saves are copied on to your PC, you can copy them to anything you want later, including a different PSP memory stick.

Alternatively, you may be able to simply plug in the whole PSP to your PC using this kind of USB cord and copy the saves that way. It'd be simpler if it works, but I also don't have firsthand experience with it.
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable--Male/dp/B00NH11N5A/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1450062806&sr=1-1&keywords=mini+usb+cord

will this fan splitter work with the two case fans on a Fractal Design Define Mini C? Probably a dumb question but yeah thanks for the help.

I agree completely. This dongle apparently works with the switch as long as you use the official adapter.

I don't see why nintendo doesn't release the same form factor but first party as to avoid any chance of bricking. That would be perfect.

well. i can safely say this has made the CV1 obsolete for me. it will be relegated to the "backup" role incase i accidentally break my quest. had absolutely no issues whatsoever for a good hr of play. using a 12ft usb 3.0 extender and a 10 foot type usb 3.0 A-C cable for a total cable length of 22ft connected directly to my Asus Prime X570-p motherboard's usb 3.2 port. my 1080ti is pretty solid so far :D

​

For those curious these are the exact cables i'm using:-extender:- https://www.amazon.com/Insignia-USB-Charge-Cable-NS-MCAB10/dp/B01MYZDG3T

A-C cable:- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZIPYPY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Full Rig:-

Ryzen 3900X

32 Gb Gskil Trident-z rgb ram

GTX 1080Ti

Asus Prime X570-p motherboard.

So it looks like an old laptop PATA connector.

Option 1: if your desktop motherboard has a connector and you have a ribbon cable for it, go ahead and hook it up directly.

Option 2: Get an adapter example and hook up the drive to a USB connector on a machine you want to review the data on.

Complication 1: while unlikely, if the drive is encrypted you may have some challenges accessing the data.

Complication 2: The drive may be degraded to the point where reading data is dicey.

Complication 3: Infection. Make sure your host system's anti virus is up-to-date, and run MalwareBytes in parallel prior to initial connection if you're feeling paranoid.

For extra credit, wipe the drive when you're done. It might have personal information that's still relevant and frankly it's good practice. Check sourceforge for a good wipe utility like DBAN.

It would be a pain, but there should be a way. If a HDMI (M) --> DisplayPort (F) adapter to the Moshi isn't feasible, the following setup would work.

HDMI --> DisplayPort cable --> Sunix DisplayPort to USB-C --> USB-C cable --> LG Ultrafine 4k

HDMI to DisplayPort Cable:
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Gold-Plated-DisplayPort/dp/B004C9P9TM
Sunix USB 3.1 DisplayPort PCIe card
http://www.sunix.com/en/product_detail.php?cid=1&kid=2&gid=11&pid=1909
Some form of USB to PCIe riser for power
https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Extension-Connector-Litecoin-Colorcoin/dp/B017VBE7X6
A USB-C cable with displayport alt mode support.

^ In theory the above setup should work. I never went this route as both my PCs have Thunderbolt 3, but entertained this idea for a while. The PC people have successfully run the Sunix externally with just power and let the card perform the video conversion. Not a cost-effective solution, but it should work!

For your problem I would recommend a new powersupply. The first problem is you physically don't have the correct plugs to support your new GPU, also if you look at the specs for your PSU

>+3.3V@25A; +5V@25A; +12V1@25A; +12V2@25A; -12V@0.3A; +5VSB@2.5A

Your current powersupply unfortunatley doesn't have a single dedicated 12V rail and EVGA recommends a PSU that has:

>(Minimum recommended power supply with +12 Volt current rating of 42 Amps.)

My advice, get a new quality powersupply that has the appropriate connectors along with a single dedicated 12V rail that offers 42 amps or more. Technically you should be able to use adapters without problems, but I'm always a bit cautious when it comes to power supplies. Since you already have an 6+2 pin you can buy an adapter for the 6-pin to make it 8-pin and see if it works. It would be smart to test this adapter before buying a new PSU which would save you money.

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Express-Power-Adapter-PCIEX68ADAP/dp/B001TK3TJY

I would suggest you go the other route on this one. When messing with power it's usually best to stick with approved or licensed products. HDMI to VGA adapter is the better route here. http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Active-Adapter-Support/dp/B008O7RH5C Keep the charger plugged in and use the HDMI Out port on the laptop.

Which version of the Dex did you buy? There's the round collapsible model or the rectangular one. The rectangular one is a little more flexible but I don't think you're going to be able to get one to easily work with the bulky Otterbox case. I use slim silicon style cases and have to take those off as well. You may be able to find a better USB C extension cable that won't have the same problem. I've also used this HDMI Adapter in place of a DeX and it worked really well (although I didn't use it for extended periods).

Buy active Mini display to HDMI adapters like this one Cable Matters Active Mini DisplayPort to HDMI Adapter Supporting 4K 60Hz Display & Eyefinity Technology https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PJ3LSIG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AdUFybKM776V0

/u/SurfaceDockGuy! That dock is cool!

Out of curiosity, did the upgrade to Creator's update cause flickers to your external monitors?

Since the update, my 4K monitor will occasionally flicker. This flicker will occur every few minutes when the CPU is under some load. The dock seems to exacerbate this 1 frame drop to maybe a full second, so I am bypassing the dock for now.

I am using this adapter which worked great before the update: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PJ3LSIG. I ordered a second one to see if maybe mine had worn out or become defective, but the second one behaves the same.

As a Surface + Dock + Microsoft insider, I thought perhaps you might have an idea for me. Either way, thanks for sharing the video.

The channel I linked actually has a comparison video of the Dell and the Lenovo, check that out too.

I prefer the Dell ones because they tend to last longer and I also like the carbon fiber / metal design. I know people who are more into keyboards and so prefer Lenovos. The Aero is a gaming laptop with matching dimensions, not the best for portability.

If you can, have a look at them in person, see which one you like best.

For a charger, you can look at something like these:

• brick: https://smile.amazon.com/AUKEY-Charger-Dynamic-MacBook-Nintendo/dp/B07W8M7T5W/
  
• cable: https://smile.amazon.com/Anker-PowerLine-Durability-Including-Matebook/dp/B01LNA0XCU/

I have some old hard drives, and I want to see what they have on them before I get rid of them. I don't know what connectors they use, and I'm hoping to find something for relatively cheap if possible. I don't think I have anything for them already. They are 2 Seagate Barracuda 7200.7 160 GB and 1 Western Digital Protege 20 GB. Any help is appreciated!


Here is a link to images of the HD's and their connections: http://imgur.com/a/voGHU

This item was suggested but I want to either confirm that this will work or get other suggestions. Thanks!

Ah well I believe this will work http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O7RH5C/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

If you have amazon prime you can easily return it. And if it does and you one day upgrade your monitor it won't be a bad thing to have around.(just make sure your monitor supports a resolution that it supports)

First you will need an otg, this one works like a charm, in comes in a pack of two

https://www.amazon.com/AuviPal-Micro-USB-Cable-Power/dp/B07FY9Z9GD/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=auvipal+otg&qid=1563328564&s=gateway&sr=8-2

Then watch this tutorial to prepare your classic for otg support (you will need a 2.0 usb for this)

https://youtu.be/Os1jbfc8H14

Then, download autobleem and retroarch, add yor pbp’s to any usb you want and you are set to go

This way you don’t need to modify the hardware and you cam play two player games

The good thing about the FanVision cables is that it uses a regular Mini USB plug that can be picked up at a place like Best Buy or online

Trying again. My previous attempt was removed by mods, not sure which link was in violation but I changed one of them:

Wow. Good going.

How about:

1. One of these: https://www.amazon.com/IYSHOUGONG-1-44MB-Floppy-Connector-Adapter/dp/B07QYYF36N
   
2. Paired with: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Motherboard-4-Pin-Header-USBMBADAPT/dp/B000IV6S9S
   
   BTW I have NO IDEA if that would work. But in theory you would think it would.
   
   Power cable into the adapter at #1 above is separate, but seems like that would be a legacy standard.
   
   Also, there is this:
   
   https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Olimex-Ltd/ARM-JTAG-20-10?qs=DUTFWDROaMbVQp3WoAdijQ%3D%3D&gclid=CjwKCAjwibzsBRAMEiwA1pHZrlxfq0xcms8HD_Vkh7lJCE2a9WGWQwkaVUBkFDo8g9iZXoZaFDNKKBoCQF0QAvD_BwE
   
   Datasheet PDF on that page is super-vague, so very much in the theme of 1995 All-Over-Again.
   
   If you get both 3.5" drives up and running, you should stripe them together into a RAID 0 !!!

You're going to need an active DP adapter. Really no way around it, AFAIK. There's plenty of cheap options out there well below $40 unless you're not living in the States. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Supporting-Technology/dp/B00PJ3LSIG

But looking at my Cintiq Pro 16 right now, I'm not sure if I would want to use it as a portable monitor. It's a pretty big size and has no protection like a closed laptop. You're going to have to use a protective sleeve and still be very careful with it. Lugging all the additional cables, link adapter, DP adapter, and power brick also seems cumbersome. Not to mention the connectivity issues that occurs from time to time. I also believe that it has major input lag that's not obvious until you use it as an entertainment monitor.

https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Converter-Adapter-Portable-Connector/dp/B01B7CEOVK/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

This works for me pretty well. It supports HDMI 1.4 so it should handle up to 1080p@120hz. I've only used it up to 1080p@75hz. The black levels are great and I've gotten 0 lag when testing it with 240p test suite through VGA out on a second monitor.

Don't use that

I'd say go with the OEM (Samsung ones) or Anker fast charge ones

USB C Charger, Anker PowerLine USB C to USB 3.0 Cable (6ft) with 56k Ohm Pull-up Resistor for Samsung Galaxy Note 8, S8, S8+, S9, MacBook, Sony XZ, LG V20 G5 G6, HTC 10 and More https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01E9W8KYC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Z-wJBb4B3SRQ3

Btw I don't think Samsung fucked us

I'm glad we have type C it's Innovation it's the future

Usb c is better in every way except cost for now

You will not need to buy another Windows license, as the one you have is tied to the BIOS of the laptop. But, it's a good idea to link it to a MS account just in case.

To clone the HDD to the SSD you can use Macrium Reflect which is free. It's a simple straight forward process. You will need a USB to SATA adapter, or an enclosure, to do this.

Cloning is fine and seems to be the route you want to take as you mention you do not want to re-install all your programs, settings, etc. The only drawback is it's not a fresh/clean install.

My fans did not come with an adapter, I am only going to use one more fan so I don't think a splitter will burn out the fan header. Thanks for the help.

EDIT: Is this the sort of thing I should get. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Akasa-AK-CBFA04-15-Splitter-Cable-Fans/dp/B005FWXWPS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411764359&sr=8-1&keywords=fan+splitter.

the 1030 only supports dvi-d, which no longer outputs the analog signal needed for vga. Either you get a other card that supports dvi-i (analog and digital pins), or you buy a hdmi to vga adapter https://www.amazon.com/VicTsing-Gold-Plated-Converter-Adapter-Desktop/dp/B016HL4CAY/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1506186223&sr=1-3&keywords=hdmi+vga
a active dvi-d to vga adapter would also work and keep your hdmi port free, if you want to connetc a tv or a new second monitor:
https://www.amazon.com/CableDeconn-Active-FeMale-Adapter-Converter/dp/B01DW2BJWU/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1506186440&sr=1-3&keywords=dvi-d+vga

I just made the switch to all Anker cables after my Powerocker cable started acting funny. Quick charge all the time now, no issues so far. My BF also uses these on his Pixel and his USB-PD works as well.

I have both the Unicorn Beetle case and Spigen Neo Hybrid case.

Neo Hybrid is good if you're looking for a bumper with added grip on the back. I wanted something slim, but with a vertebrae since one-piece TPU cases tend to stretch out over time. Survived a couple drops with the scars to prove it. Big holes over both ports that I haven't had issues with yet. I really like this case.

Unicorn Beetle is my I-might-drop-this-on-concrete-today case. It's basically an Otterbox Defender, but half the price. Plus I carry my phone in my back pocket and after getting caught in the rain a couple times I decided I wanted a case with port covers. Also haven't had issues with port holes on this one. My only problem with this case is that my dinky little magnetic car mount (with the disk insert) sometimes has problems holding on to it. But I expected that to happen with a much denser case. (Also side note, this case comes with a built-in screen protector, like the Defender. I ripped that out before installing since they get lint stuck under them.)

All on Amazon. I'll link when I get on my PC.

So I've tested Link with an eGPU (external graphics card / dock). It eventually worked for me. Here are the specs:

• Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2070 Aorus Gaming Box connected to a Lenovo Yoga 720-15 laptop via a 2-lane Thunderbolt 3 port with Windows 10. eGPU firmware is the latest one as of Nov 2019 with the TB bandwidth and fan spin fix.
  
• Oculus Quest was connected to the PC via AmazonBasics Double Braided Nylon USB Type-C to Type-A 3.1 Gen 1 Charger Cable | 10 feet. It worked. Will test the recommended Anker cable today as well. My guess is that it will work too.
  
• The following adapter was used to test the Virtual Link port on the GPU: AmazonBasics USB Type-C to USB 3.1 Gen1 Female Adapter Cable - Black. It also worked.
  
  Here are my observations:
  
  

1. Both the onboard USB 3.1 Gen 1 port (left side) and the Virtual Link port on the external GPU (the one that's a USB-C port found on most RTX GPU's) worked fine, and showed very similar performance.
   
2. Oculus software should not run the beta version, and Oculus Quest should not have Developer mode on.
   
3. Performance is OK, but is obviously considerably lower (at least by 20 to 40%) than had the Quest been connected to a conventional desktop PC with the same specs. Without the headset on the same eGPU setup, VR Mark Orange Room scores about 6000 points. With the headset on and running the test in Oculus virtual desktop (not natively on the HMD displays, though) shows the lowest of 4700 points. Onboard GTX 1050 2GB without the headset would show about 2500 points. My Yoga 15 is downvolted a bit with TB kept on.
   
4. Image definitely looks more blurry than I'd want, but I will keep fiddling with Oculus/SteamVR settings. I have also noticed timewarp artifacts on some objects over the edges when turning my head very fast, but those are sometimes there, and sometimes are not. Not sure what's the main cause yet.
   
5. You probably do not want to have anything connected to the same USB 3 hub or controller as the one that you have you Quest connected to when you initially connect it to the PC. When I had peripherals connected to the same Corsair ST100 Headphones Stand, Quest would had kept showing a red "x" until I would disconnect the other devices first. When I reconnected those while using the headset, everything was working fine, though; that is until I re-connected the Quest again. Other stuff had to be disconnected first from that hub again then.
   
6. Performance was 5-10% lower than when running VR Mark Orange Room via the Oculus Virtual desktop than when just running it on an internal display.
   
7. Performance seems to be the same when running Link with either an external monitor connected to the eGPU or with an internal monitor of the laptop itself.
   
8. The following cable DID NOT WORK: TOPWE USB Type C Cable USB C Cable (2 Pack 10FT) Type C Charger USB 3.0 Date Sync 3A Fast Charging Cable. DO NOT BUY THIS CABLE to use with the Quest, unless otherwise confirmed for your setup.
   
   Conclusion:
   
   I knew what I was getting into, but using a Rift S with such setup instead of the Quest/Link is preferred due to TB3 limitations when feeding the signal back to the PC. Ideally, you would not use Oculus Quest or even a Rift S with an eGPU setup, but this is the setup I have, so here we are: it is confirmed to be working on a Windows machine and an RTX 2070 eGPU, as long as you have proper USB 3 ports. This depends on your laptop, though, hence Virtual Link port can save the day for some people.

To be honest, you would do well with the OSSC. Lesser devices might be too noisy scaling into a sharp PC CRT like the 2070SB.

Now, since that OSSC is HDMI out, you would need to also get an active HDMI->VGA adapter, specifically the Tendak is the one where black levels are not too disturbed.

We have been retrofitting older projectors with MS Wireless Display adapters. We have approximately 600+ installed, on our way to ~1200.

​

For projectors without HDMI we have been adding HDMI to VGA Adapters.

Female HDMI to VGA Male Convertor w/ audio

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B7CEOVK/ref=s9_acsd_simh_hd_bw_bFu3Qix_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=E8775ESYX54S32TCC4XA&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=7bdeeadd-6c3b-5ec9-8689-5551833323b8&pf_rd_i=14570285011

​

Some projectors and TVs don't output enough USB power for a MS Wireless Display Adapter to work reliabily, so get a USB extension cable and a USB power adapter also.

​

​If you want something without a client, I tried this NovoPro with the Launcher Plus before. It's pretty good. If you want to run agentless and completely device agnostic, you buy the Launcher Plus, it is USB based. It is however, an expensive solution ~$500.

http://novopro.vivitekusa.com/

​

​

I use an Anker Power line and Cable Creations. Both are great. The Anker is 6' the cable creations is 10'. I use the Google type C brick for both.

Anker PowerLine+ C to C 2.0 cable (6ft), High Durability, for USB Type-C Devices Including Samsung Galaxy Note 8 S8 S8+ S9, iPad Pro 2018, Google Pixel, Nexus 6P, Huawei Matebook, MacBook and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LNA0XCU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6hF7CbNYHEMBD

USB C Cable 10ft, CableCreation USB C to USB C Braided Data & Charging Cable (20V,3A) up to 480Mbps, Compatible with MacBook(Pro), Galaxy S10/S9/S9+, Pixel XL 2,etc (Space Gray) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D175HMO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ujF7Cb6HSQV6D

Since VGA is Analog and DP is Digital, you usually need a powered adapter. Also, all the adapters I've found have been DP to VGA, not the other way around. When dealing with VGA the direction is important. I think you could possibly do it with a VGA to HDMI adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/VicTsing-Converter-Adapter-Output-Female/dp/B00K4W62R4/

Followed by a HDMI to Displayport cable.

https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-DisplayPort-Cable-Resolution-Ready/dp/B00Z05JMKO/

The best route might be a Dreamcast to HDMI adapter

https://www.amazon.com/HD-Link-Cable-Dreamcast/dp/B07BZP7HML

followed by a female HDMI to Displayport.

https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Adapter-Benfei-Converter-Gold-Plated/dp/B017Q8ZVWK/

​

​

It's certainly possible, but it'll be a bit more work than I think you envisioned.

​

Edit - P.S. Be sure that the Displayport on your iMac is a displayport in and not a displayport out.

P.P.S. It seems the Female HDMI to Displayport might be one direction as well, DP-->HDMI

I'm pretty good at tech stuff and boy is that connection method difficult! The setup instructions walk you through the way they want you to connect through a home router which are designed to allow you to connect to things on the network easily, for example a printer. A public wifi should be preventing you from doing what you need to do, which is to see other things on that network.

Without having the camera in front of me I can't tell you if it will work but follow the instructions on page 91 for connecting to a smartphone. On step 5 instead of connecting a phone, look for the network information from step 4 on the laptop wifi and try to connect to it. Then try to run the canon software on the laptop and see if it can find the camera. It's a long shot but it might work.

Other than that, it looks like you can use a usb cable on the camera. When looking at the rear of the camera (the screen) open the door on the right side of the camera (it swings to the front). At the top there is a usb port (it uses mini B). You need a cable like this. It looks similar to the micro usb cables that phones use but it is slightly larger. Any place that sells cameras or laptops should have one.

According to the MSI GTX 970 that mostly matched the box of the one you purchased, it did say that it came with an 8-pin power connector (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16814127832). As far as whether or not yours will, its too late to change anything now if you've already ordered it, so just cross your fingers. If it does, hooray! If not, keep your old card and order a cable off Newegg or Amazon for like, $5 - $10. Like this one

Great suggestion man, thanks. I should have mentioned I'm using GTX 1070s with a 6+2 pin config, and each of the PCIe cables that comes the PSU has a little split like this thing. So I'm thinking I do the math and figure out if I can split one off to power the CPU using a similar cable to the one you just linked, this one: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-PCIEXSPLIT6-6-Inch-Express-Splitter/dp/B001TK3TJY?th=1

I currently use this one and it works a charm! https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rankie-Plated-DisplayPort-Cable-Meters/dp/B00Z05JMKO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473857306&sr=8-1&keywords=hdmi+to+displayport

Good luck!

While 500GB can be bought, only notebook drives still have platters that small. 12TB HDDs are on the way, and 500GB is what big PC makers get, to save $1 on a new PC. 1TB has been the mainstream small size for at least 3 years, now.

If you want bus-powered USB ones, WD and Toshiba tend to be good, IME.

You can buy a drive an enclosure, but a bus-powered USB 3.0 one will usually be more convenient (if it comes with a regular USB 3.0 micro cable, you can buy cables like this to get USB 2.0 compatibility).

If a notebook-sized enclosure, get one that takes bus power from USB. Full-sized enclosures almost all have their own power bricks, since USB power would be too expensive to implement.

Hey, looked into the product you linked to, but I have a quick question.

The one you linked has a microUSB (which I would have to stick into the hard drive). Thing is, my hard drive doesn't have a microUSB, it has an extended version, like the one here:
http://www.amazon.com/eForCity-dual-Micro-B-Cable-Black/dp/B005M0ICG2/ref=pd_cp_e_1#customerReviews

So the one I found LOOKs like a better choice, except that this one needs two USB 3 when I only have 2.0. Would it still get enough juice from my laptop?

I've been successful with a 10m/32ft Cablematters Active USB 3 These are branded LINDY on Amazon.co.uk and Amazon.de

However the 10m cable didn't work on my mobo's Intel USB 3.0 ports but did work on my motherboards Asmedia 3.1 port. YMMV.

MY PC is on a Desk in the left front corner of the Room. The Left Front camera is plugged straight into the PC. My front Right and back left are using Cablematters 5m/16ft Active USB 3.0 and work on the Intel USB ports. My back right camera is on the 10m USB3 cable.

3.5m x 4.5m room with a camera in all 4 corners

1. Your power consumption will be absolutely fine. No worries there. Make sure your card is a blower/reference style and not open air for better temps.
   
   
2. I'd do trial and error. I don't do any overclocking so I can't speak on what would actually work or not. Take it in increments. Overclock it a little and run a benchmark. If the computer doesn't force shut off (a telltale sign of too much power consumption) you're good. Keep going until you either reach your intended overclock or you get shutoffs. If the computer ever force shuts off during a benchmark like that, do not leave your card clocked like that. You risk damaging your system.
   
   
3. I'm seeing that the 480 allows up to 6 monitors but you might see a drop in performance when adding more monitors. You can always plug one into the on-board graphics port (located at the very top of your x51's back panel) if you won't be using all 3 for widescreen gaming.
   
   
4. Here is a cable that should fit your needs (if you want to compare prices, there's a few different ones on Amazon. This was just the first result). It only supports up to 1920x1200 so if you need it for a different resolution I'd look elsewhere.

I found this guide to get to the game or pc settings on the TV, see if it works for you.

HOME > [Setup] > [TV settings] > [Picture] > [Advanced] > [Game or computer]

Also, this is the HDMI to VGA adapter i use, super compact, cheap (you can find it cheaper, i actually bought a similar shaped one that was $5) and works like a charm.

https://www.amazon.com/VicTsing-Gold-Plated-Converter-Adapter-Desktop/dp/B016HL4CAY/

I bought great cable from Anker 6ft Grey or Red available. Quality product and works perfect

Link 1

Link 2

Sure! Here it is: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11N5A

It's called Mini USB. It went out of popularity like 6 years ago but for some applications that require extra durability, it's still quite useful in my opinion. The sockets are much harder to break than micro usb or usb C

I recently bought one of these converters for a vga monitor. Linky It has an audio out port built in and all of the cables you need. But you will need an old school VGA plug on your monitor and a vga cable.

I doubt the USB speakers will work with the ouya, but maybe someone else has experience with this.

I think it looks great on smaller displays, in fact I find some games just too huge in my home theater.

Here is a list of them, http://junkerhq.net/xrgb/index.php?title=Analogue_video_output_options_for_OSSC

I am using the "Tendak". As far as I can tell it works perfectly, and I am quite picky :)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B7CEOVK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Or a Brand Flash Drive 128gb ~ $25 - $50 amazon and ebay
EDIT: For $56.99 you can get a 1TB (~960gb) HDD but you need a Y cable which is $6 more ($63 semi-total for HDD)
Have a great day!
Links:
Y-Cable, HDD
and the FlashDrive

My current solution was to route a USB Mini-B to USB-A cable from the Kraken pump out the back of the case to a USB port on the back of my motherboard's IO.

You can see the cable connected to the pump going out the case here It goes down and out near the GPU.

This will have to be the best solution for now until a USB 3.1 Gen 2 header to USB 2.0 header adapter is made; if ever.

I use a USB lightstrip inside my case and use a USB A to USB Motherboard 4-Pin Header to connect it. All for under $15. The led strip has a control to set color and mode (blink, color cycle, etc). Cheap and effective solution for case lighting. I really didn't want to add molex connectors to my PSU so this was the best solution. Just to note, the LEDs will stay on if connected to the USB header. If you want it to turn off when computer is off, you may need to set USB power in your BIOS. I keep it on off the hell of it, it looks cool just cycling colors.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015R44RZC
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IV6S9S

To be honest, just about any external hard drive you get should be fine. The price difference between a 1TB and a 2TB is so small that it shouldn't be a factor.

I got one of the WD Passports and it works great. It doesn't use external power, just a USB 3.0 cable, but I got a USB Y-adaptor from Amazon and haven't had any issues.

There are plenty on amazon in the uk both in amazon basics and popular brands like anker and belkin

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker-PowerLine-USB-IF-Certified-MacBook/dp/B07213D35X/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb+c+3.1&qid=1569912315&s=computers&sr=1-3

https://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-Double-Braided-Nylon-Type-C/dp/B07D7NNJ61/ref=sr_1_14?keywords=usb%2Bc%2B3.1&qid=1569912342&s=computers&sr=1-14&th=1

I bought a few things. Happy with all of it! Sorry for the Canadian amazon links. I'm sure it's all cheaper if you're in the US.

Carrying case: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00NEG896Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cords: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01E9W8KYC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
&
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01EMIIFCU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Usb C Hub:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B06WWRDMKP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Car Charger:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01M7RS21N/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you have an extra USB 3.0 port on a different USB controller than your other two sensors, I recommend using USB 3.0 instead. I've found it especially makes a difference in larger play areas.

But, if you're buying a third sensor, it will come with a 16 ft active USB 2.0 extension cable in the box.

If you want to extend further or go with USB 3.0 extension instead, I've used this cablematters 32.8 ft extension.

Lots have used them and reported working on here:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1pjMerZPmJgkqwMKeYzvy4yGzWu2bu_1T_6m3nNmJkBU/edit#gid=0

mine will be delivered today (I'll be testing it tonight), I will report back once I find out if it works or not.

These are the cables I purchased, both are confirmed to be working from others, if it works I will have a total of 26 feet for my Quest to PC setup. I will be testing them in about 5 hours from now:

Cable (10 ft version, which is sold out): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZIPYPY/

Extension: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8

​

Edit: these both worked great for Link on the quest. I now have a 26 ft setup for only $24 total! The Anker cable even came with a Velcro cable tie i'm using to secure the cable to the headstrap so it doesn't yank out of the USB port on the Quest while playing a game.

Hello my glorious friends,

My R9 390 Nitro needs 2x 8pin power cable.
My PSU is Seasonic Seasonic S12II-620 620W.
(https://seasonic.com/product/s12ii-620/)

The thing is, this PSU has only one 6+2 pin PCIE connector and one PCIE 6pin.

Can I use, with no danger, a 6 to 8 pin reduction cable to make this work?

Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Express-Power-Adapter-PCIEX68ADAP/dp/B001TK3TJY

Thank you in advance my friends!

Sorry for pic quality! There's a light in the way XD. I used a 10ft cable extension, command strip hooks, zip ties, and a dog leash to make my Oculus cord retractable!

Purchased items(US):

• Dog leash (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LCECNES/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• command strips (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0084M696K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• 10ft passive HDMI (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8T0YQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• HDMI repeater (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GHL72XS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• 10ft usb3.0 cable (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  Total: ~40$
  
  

1.) Buy some:

• cheap wall/ceiling mounts - https://www.amazon.co.uk/sourcingmap-Metal-Bracket-Security-Camera/dp/B00UVCKZZ2/ref=pd_sim_107_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YWPFSDBSZ19JTXY8JFYZ
  
  
• and extension cables - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• or https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 if you need something longer.
  
  
• Mount sensors to the ceiling.
  
  
• Profit.
  
  You might want to extend Rift's cables. I use:
  
  
• amazon basic 3 meter USB 3.0 extender -
  https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• amazon basic 3 meter HDMI extender - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• cable management system - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06XT2XLZ5 (thank you, u/Mugendon! - https://www.reddit.com/r/oculus/comments/65ibit/finally_an_out_of_the_box_working_oculus_rift/)
  
  
  2.) My Rift lays on the table. I cover it with a towel (with a moomin on it xD)

Welcome to the Vive club, fellow Viver!

Is your monitor using an HDMI cable? If so, you may want to opt for this cable to free up the HDMI port for your Vive.

The two popular recommendations are the screw in tendak, https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Converter-Adapter-Portable-Connector/dp/B01B7CEOVK/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=tendak+hdmi+vga&qid=1557200798&s=gateway&sr=8-3, good for up to ~165MHz pixel clock, or if you need higher than that the Sunix DPU3000, good for 300+, although not sure where to still buy them, gone from Amazon now.

Something like this would work. Though, if the monitor you bought is relatively new, there's a good chance it has an HDMI port on it as well, in which case all you'd need is this

...and you've likely solved the issue. This is the cable that I bought: http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters%C2%AE-Gold-Plated-DisplayPort/dp/B004C9P9TM

On the Amazon description page, it says "Connect up to 2 monitors using AMD Eyefinity Multi-Display technology (one cable per monitor); An active cable is required to support more monitors". It sounds like what you were describing above. I had no idea that connecting a third monitor would take anything other than an extra cable. This must be why I can have the TV and one other monitor connected without any issues.

I put together a machine just a couple of months ago to replace my little consumer-grade router at home. I look at all of the options (the various ARM families, Atom, etc.) and wound up deciding that the best option was to go for the low end of the current generation of Intel x86 parts.

Here's what I threw together:

| Category | Part Name | Price Paid | Current Price |
|---------------|-----------------|-----------------|-----------------------|
| Motherboard | GA-H61M-HD2 | $49.99 | $54.99 |
| CPU | Celeron G1610 | $42.99 | $42.99 |
| Memory | 2x2GiB DDR3-1333 DIMMs | $30.78 | -- |
| Power Supply | Solid Gear Mini ITX 180W PSU | $26.78 | $26.78 |

At this point you've spent $150.54 and you have a small (9" by 9" or so) system (minus a hard drive) that will blow any of the more exotic options out of the water... and that runs your favorite OS just fine. It's got a gigabit network adapter onboard, as well as onboard video, which is at least a nice fallback if you have any trouble getting it set up as a server.

I spent $3.77 on a motherboard-header-to-female-USB adapter and $6.99 on a well-reviewed 8 GiB thumb drive and called it quits, since my usage (as a router) doesn't really need any storage.

Then I splurged for a passive CPU cooler; it's made by Supermicro for their 1U servers, installed very easily, and was all of $24.23. Now the only fan around is the tiny one in the PSU!

I added some of these network cards which add two gigabit ports for $30 each, but since it has the onboard gigabit port, you don't need to do that unless you need more than one port.

I had intended to put it in one of these cases, which comes with a questionable PSU, but it showed up broken and I never got around to re-ordering. It sits very happily on a little cardboard tray without a case. (Also, even the smallest cases are much larger than just the board, since they assume you might want to mount hard drives or optical drives.) One of these days I'll bust out the woodworking tools and build a teeny little case for it.

As a tiny little finishing touch, I spent $2 or $3 on a power button (and reset button, power LED, and hard drive LED; they came as a set) from someone on eBay.

By my count, my configuration was a total of $150.54 + $38.00 = $188.54 before the extra network adapters. If you like, add about $20 (for a total of ~$205) to remove the PSU and add a cheap case that comes with a PSU. (You can also skip buying the buttons and LEDs if you do this.)

I don't know how much power the machine itself uses, but the whole power strip (with Roku, Raspberry Pi, DSL gateway, a dual-band wireless access point, and probably some other things) uses about 100 watts.

An HDMI to VGA adapter will give you DB15 output, from which you can use a regular DB15 (VGA) cable to go to the RGB interface. A very good and cheap adapter is this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B7CEOVK/

If you're willing to spend more for extra quality, the HD Fury 3 is most likely the best adapter to get this job done. I also recommend using an HDMI switch or splitter with audio extractor to get digital audio out, instead of having to use the analog audio from the adapter.

Depending on the signal you may need to use the DDSP and SERR switches on the Interface.

It may sound like a bit of a hassle but it's not that bad honestly, and it's totally worth it. BTW don't even bother with HD-SDI to get HD stuff into your D24, the results are considerably inferior. Even the component route is better.

Nevermind, missed the SB[2]. Depending on the monitor, 3.0 to HDMI Video Graphics Adapter with Audio for Multiple Monitors up to 2560x1440 for around $20.


Depending on the monitor, the most you might need is an mDP to HDMI (preferably active) adapter for about $18 or maybe a Mini DP to DP Cable for $9 if your monitor supports it. If you start to think multi-monitor (screen real estate) I'm a fan of the Microsoft Dock, which gives you two mDP and other nice features like 4 full-powered USB 3.0 ports.

This is what I got. It works in the sense that I get video output on my other monitor, it just doesn't allow me to move my mouse over to it, and even when I click extend my second montior has a start button and stuff. My LG is an ultra wide so the normal resolution is like 2560x1080 or something like that. I don't know why the resolution blows up all huge when I extend the displays.

Right, I'd be very interested to see that compared to the OSSC. Hopefully FirebrandX will test that too. Personally I'd probably get this Tendak one that people on the shmups forum really like:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B7CEOVK

These are all ok solutions if you just want screen mirroring. I have one too.... Then I learned about DEX. I picked up this guy and love it:

USB C to HDMI Adapter for Samsung DeX Station Desktop Experience for Galaxy Note8/ S8/ S8+, Nintendo Switch, MacBook Pro 2016 2017 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078W4RXGR?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

So hdmi to vga would be better to get?

This is amazons best seller hdmi to vga

https://www.amazon.com/VicTsing-Gold-Plated-Converter-Adapter-Desktop/dp/B016HL4CAY/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1485278011&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=hdmi+to+vga&psc=1

My 360 setup works great with just 2 cameras, my space is 2.5 x 1.8 meters. Both my cameras are up high near the ceiling pointing down in opposite corners of the room. I had problems when I tried running both cameras and the rift through my USB 3 card, but running the rift on USB 3, and the cameras on USB 2 ports works great. I use this extension cable on one of the cameras: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just bought these three items to expand my Wii U storage. It works great! Load times are marginally faster in Smash
Internal memory 37.7sec load time
SSD 35.6sec load time

External drive enclosure

SSD

USB Y-cable

In that case:

http://amzn.com/B004C9P9TM If you want to transmit audio.

http://amzn.com/B001TH7T2U If you don't need audio and want to save a few bucks.

Both are digital and will have the same video quality. Cheers!

In anticipation for the Link beta launch, what software should we download if any, Oculus Rift S ? Or will there be a separate Link software from Oculus's website that we'll have to download in order to use Oculus Link? Also, to confirm, we should be able to purchase any Rift S supported game from Steam, e.g. Asgard's Wrath, etc. and then be able to run it via Link when it's released correct? Also if anyone is sidequesting Asgards Wrath how's the quality? Also to help anyone I could never get Windows 10 to show the Oculus Quest on PC until I purchased a high quality cable that is recommended for using Link, see link below, after trying everything. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZIPYPY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For the cable, I've be using this one from Amazon with great results https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D7NNJ61?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
From what I've seen, you mostly just need to make sure it's usb3.

you cant do that. using a DVI-I to VGA adapter still counts as VGA.

cant use two VGA on new graphics cards.

you need an HDMI to VGA active converter. or DVI-D to VGA active converter. or Display port to VGA active converter.

http://www.amazon.com/LinkS-DVI-D-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00Q8SZ0JO/

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Video-Adapter-Converter/dp/B003V4TV8O/

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Active-Female-Adapter/dp/B008O7RH5C/

Thank you guys. I have a LG-49UJ6500 that has HDMI 2.0 and I use it for my desktop outputting 4k @ 60hz 4:4:4, was just looking to setup my surface pro so I can bring it home from work to get stuff done on the weekends. I ended up getting this adapter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PJ3LSIG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I use the full displayport version to output from my 1080ti to the LG tv and it works perfectly. For the HDMI cable I went with Monoprice premium, never had an issue with Monoprice stuff.

I have one of these at home and keep one in my bag for on-the-go usage:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078W4RXGR

​

Works flawlessly for the Note 9 and Nintendo Switch with a good power supply; My LG 42" multi-client monitor powers the Note 9 and Switch from USB-C: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824025629

​

Also, I'm typing this in Linux for Dex right now :)

Are you using one of the controller ports to run the USB drive? If so then there is a chance your data got corrupted since they is a power limiter installed on the ports. It's best to use an OTG adapter to avoid issues like this after you have bleem. An OTG adapter plugs into the rear of the PSC and allows you to connect both power and an additional USB device.


Here is an example of a simple OTG adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/AuviPal-Micro-USB-Cable-Power/dp/B07FY9Z9GD/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3GB6R2V3BMI6K&keywords=otg+adapter&qid=1565670320&s=gateway&sprefix=otg+ada%2Caps%2C205&sr=8-3