Hope this helps! This isn't an exhaustive list of the best professional products but some of the best top rated affordable and highly rated by forums and high subscriber YouTubers. I'll try to answer questions as they come. Thanks for all tye comments and positive/critical feedback. Promise is all helps in the end!

Wash/Decontamination

1. Meguiar’s Gold Class Shampoo Car Wash - $23 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071HR14SJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
2. Mothers California Gold Clay Bar System (Best out of the packaged kits compared to “professional” line expensive clays/lubes) - $16 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002U2V1Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
3. Carpro Iron X Iron Remover 500 ml with Sprayer - $19 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UM6DLE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
4. CarPro Eraser Intense Oil & Polish Cleanser (Rated a little higher than Gyeon Prep – A few options out there but this is cheap and works great compared to straight IPA spray/wipe. It’s not rough on the clear coat and doesn’t cause issues with using higher % of IPA over time) - $17 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FY0XY1S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
5. 2x Five-Gallon buckets with a dirt guard in the bottom. – Lowe’s $10-$15 with the dirt guard (already had that)
   
   Wheels/Tires
   
6. CarGuys “Premium Wheel Cleaner” - $17 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014V9GFJU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
7. Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish (Classic Product but you really won’t find a more reliable and top notch wheel polish than this – Here is Amazon link but usually you can pick this up cheaper at Walmart for about $4 or $5 I believe) - $7 - https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05101-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B0009H519Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549046381&sr=8-3&keywords=mag+and+aluminum+polish
   
8. 1x 2.5 Gallon Bucket Dedicated To Wheel Cleaning ONLY – Lowe’s $5
   
   Compounding/Polishing
   
9. Meguiar’s New m110 (Newer m105) Compound (Try To Find A 15% Coupon) - $40 - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/meguiars-m110-pro-compound.html#.XFRhIlVKhpg
   
10. Meguiar’s New m210 (Newer m205) Finishing Polish/Swirl Remover (Try To Find A 15% Coupon) - $40 - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/meguiars-m210-pro-finishing-polish.html#.XFRhIVVKhpg
    
11. 6x Pack Lake Country CCS Compounding/Polishing Pads – 3x Orange/2x White/1x Green – $60 (Try to find a usable 15% coupon) - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/ccs-pads.html#.XFRfgVVKhpg
    
12. Meguiar’s PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish (Using for rear/front light polishing – Could use your compound to polish as an alternative but I like the protection factor built into this plastic polish) - $5 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AY3SR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
13. Car Foam Drill Polishing Pad Kit - 22x Piece 3” Buffing Pads (Cheap drill adapter + pads for head/tail lights only – You could go with a legit company for 3” pads but for the cost it was a joke and they are only for head/tail lights, NOT paint) - $11 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076ZJMHB1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Finshing Wax/Protectant/Plastic & Trim Restorer
    
14. Meguiar’s Ultimate Liquid Wax - $16 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HCM9H4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
15. TriNova Plastic & Trim Restorer (Hard Pressed to find anything as affordable for the ratings) - $13 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AAZ1OAE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Interior/Glass Cleaners
    
16. 303 PROTECTANT: Interior & Exterior UV Protectant (Use it to wipe leather seats, dash, and plastics) - $10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0185PU38A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
17. Invisible Glass Premium Glass Cleaner w/ EZ Grip (Awesome stuff) - $4 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KAON5Q2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Convertible Fabric Top Cleaner/Protectant/Sealer
    
18. RaggTopp Fabric Convertible Top Cleaner/Protectant Kit (This is top in class. There aren’t really any other higher rated options. Go with kit that has cleaner/brush/protectant sealer.) - $50 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008MM5ZFI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Microfiber Cloths/Car Drying Microfiber Cloths/Buffing Microfibers/Brushes/Etc.
    
19. Zwipes Microfiber Cleaning Cloths (24-Pack) (**Found this on a couple lists online for high ratings and they are soft/Highly rated on Amazon and cheap!) - $13 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANZHG7C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
20. Chemical Guys Chenille Microfiber Premium Scratch-Free Wash Mitt (Might consider 2-3 of them for washing the top and bottom parts of car – prevent further scratching) - $7 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TTL0TE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
21. Mothers Wheel Brush - $8 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GJ3DZS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
22. Chemical Guys Microfiber Wash Cleaning Detergent Concentrate (Almost all the videos put this one as #1 compared to a couple other companies that offer dedicated microfiber wash detergent) - $10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TJXWH4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
23. Chemical Guys Woolly Mammoth Microfiber Dryer Towel (25 in. x 36 in.) - $25 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042Z0LEO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
24. Other Random buffing foam applicators and microfiber cloths that came with some of the kits listed above. Will use those for compound wiping and etc.
    
25. Plastic Containers For Organization – Hefty 1.625 (Microfiber container) & 3.75 (Other products w/o squirt triggers) Gallon Containers I believe are the ones in the picture. These are awesome considering the cheap pricing. The plastic is heavy duty and the lathes aer decent all things considered. - https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hefty-1-625-Gallon-6-5-Quart-Clear-Tote-with-Latching-Lid/1000505511
    
    

I have the dark brown calf Boots.

(I also have Black Red Wing Beckmans and some Burgundy Allen Edmonds that I will polish today or tomorrow)

I went on amazon and bought a few things --

1. Chamberlains milk leather conditioner
   Chamberlains is nice and I like it, but others recommend Saphir Medaille D'or Renovator which I might get just to see if there is a noticeable difference
   
2. Saphir Creme Surfine Get the color(s) of your shoes/boots
   
3. Saphir Pate De Luxe Again, get the color you need. There is also a Medaille D'or Pate De Luxe which people recommend which I might try later
   
4. Shoe shine cloth or some old towels/tshirts
   
5. some kind of shoe brush, preferably boarshair or some nice fine hair that won't damage the leather
   
   Basically, I've never done this (well maybe once a long time ago watching my dad shine his shoes....so like over a decade ago), so I just jumped on youtube and google to look for stuff.
   
   
6. Pretty much first you wipe of the shoes with a damp/lightly wet rag/cloth or brush it with your nice brush.
   
7. Let it dry a little bit (2-3 minutes) then apply your leather conditioner. Just do small dabs (dimesize) in the major areas and rub it in. Leave it for about 5 minutes or so.
   
8. Get the Creme Surfine (or other similar product) in the color of the shoe and apply just like you did the leather conditioner. Videos show how you wanna wrap the towel/shirt/cloth around your hand. Don't use a lot of pressure and use circular motions. Let dry about 5 minutes. You repeat this process maybe 2-3 times.
   
9. The last coat or two (or more?) use the nice shiny Pate De Luxe wax. Same process except you use even less of this than the Cream. You can also mix some water in, but I chose not to for my first time. You can put like 1-2 layers first, let it dry, then add some more. This part is up to you and how you want the shoes to look. I only put like 2 layers of polish on.
   
   Let it sit over night with your shoe trees in, then see how nice the outcome is!
   Took me like....45 minutes or so but I had to keep going back to make sure I wasn't being dumb or missing something. Overall, its pretty easy. I'm sure there are "better" ways to do it, but thats why I'm reading and looking at stuff to see what to do.
   
   If anyone has more tips or help, or if Im completely wrong, please TELL ME.
   Hope I'm not here spouting blasphemy.
   

Winter Clothing/Underwear
In the fall I would wear whatever sweater was on sale at Goodwill.
For the colder winter months I wore a heavy Carhartt jacket and layered as necessary, normally using old/retired ARMY-issued polypropylene underwear.
I bought this around 7 years ago and it's awesome to have in cold weather.

Long Sleeve
For a long sleeve I would always wear these Hanes Cool Dri T-Shirt's in the summer. They claim 50+ UPF (Ultraviolet Protection Factor) though I'm sure that high of a rating only applies to the black ones and it will slowly go down as you put it through the wash. I bought the safety green ones over a year ago and haven't noticed any change in sun protection so far. They were holding up too witch was impressive with my line of work at the time (railroad labor).

Pants
I started wearing whatever blue jeans I found at Goodwill but they would always end up having holes after a month or so. I used that saved money and waited to for a 25% off sale to buy a few pairs of Duluth Firehouse pants (the originals, not those quick-dry things). I've returned 1 pair so far after 2 years even though I staggered them every day. I suspect I may have over-washed them (weekly)?

Hats
I was required to wear a hard hat so I bought this sun shade that wrapped around the brim, it worked out very nicely because 50% of the work involved bending over, exposing the back of your neck to the sun.

Socks
I bought Darn Tough socks and haven't looked back since.

Boots
I went through a few brands of boots before I found the perfect pair of Chippewa's. All other boots I tried were uncomfortable in the toe area. I was restricted to certain boot requirements from the railroad: 8", defined heel, safety toe, laced. I also put on some KG's Boot Guard before I wore out the leather on the toe area, use masking tape to make it look good! As for boot care, I opted for Obenauf's Heavy Duty LP because of the water and chemical resistance. Any time I needed to clean my boots I used Dawn (yes, the dish soap). For a thorough (bi-yearly) cleaning I used Murphy Oil Soap (yes, the wood cleaner).

Lunch Box
As for a lunch box, a basic small cooler/ice chest will do the job just fine for storing hot or cold items (not both at once!). They're well insulated, cheap, and beat broken zippers, ripped cloth, or dented metal any day.

Canteen
COLD: I bought this Coleman 1 Gallon Jug about 5 years ago at Goodwill for $2 and it still looks brand new today.
HOT: This Stanley One Hand Vacuum Mug was the best money I ever spent. It's awesome for driving without spillage and relatively easy to use while wearing insulated gloves. Sadly my first one was ran over by a coworker but I quickly bought another.

Sunscreen
Find whatever works for you, but keep in mind that high SPF ratings are pretty much marketing. SPF 15 = 94% UVB protection and SPF 45 = 98% UVB protection. As far as I'm aware you cannot obtain 100% UVB protection from sunscreen.

Sunglasses
Again, find whatever feels most comfortable to you, everybody is different. I was required to wear safety glasses which means polycarbonate lenses, they are known to scratch easily. Because of that, I found a pair that could be cheap enough to replace when necessary. Yes, my company did provide them, but they were incredibly uncomfortable to wear for 8+ hours a day.

Other
Having a few bandanas will always come in handy.
If you need gloves, your leather choices are between grain and patched. Grain is much more expensive, takes some breaking into, is water resistant and very durable. Patched is pretty much the exact opposite of grain. My goto brand was Kinco.

I may add more if I can think of anything else.

EDIT 1 - Forgot a link..

Fellow male SoCal transplant here! First, get some flexible measuring tape, the kind used by tailors. Use this to measure your neck, chest, inseam, etc. Do this several times to make sure that you have a good set of measurements. Accurate measurements are key, since looser clothing means more heat leaving your body.

These measurements will make online shopping a hell of a lot easier. Winter clothes are expensive, so Amazon is your friend. I'll post a few of the things that I rely on for the coldest days below, all of which have been godsends. I have terrible circulation in my hands, feet, and ears so your mileage may vary, but you'd be surprised how much cold wind hurts your ears. My east coast native friends make fun of some of these things, but I'll take non-misery over judgment when it's ten degrees.

Carhartt makes some of the warmest, and cheapest, winter items. They're not fashionable, but they're durable and affordable. This hat is $8 and it's been warm enough to keep my ears and scalp toasty during walks to work. The Carhartt scarf is also a godsend. If you're anything like me, you never realized that a scarf actually served a functional purpose, but it'll make any coat significantly warmer by preventing heat loss. Carhartt and others sell wool socks that you'll be glad to have if you walk to work.

This next item is the dorkiest by far: an electric jacket. Just like an electric blanket with some added shame. There are some more high-end versions, but a few power tool companies make them for affordable prices. They're waterproof (ie snowproof), carry a charge for hours, and have different heat settings. [This Bosch one is $150] (http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-PSJ120L-12-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Softshell/dp/B00E1RWH72/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413778229&sr=8-1&keywords=electric+jacket) and has good reviews. Milwaukee sells a newer model that also includes an in-pocket USB charger, which I recently saw at a Home Depot around here. The big advantage of the electric jacket is the heat settings: because it can be off or on low/medium/high, you're essentially carrying around four jackets. I never would have made it through Inauguration without this jacket.

Also important: gloves! Don't skimp on these. You'll want a pair that are waterproof but pliable enough that they won't make it impossible to
tie your shoes or pull out your metro card. I highly recommend these smartphone gloves. The fingertips are lined with silver threads for conductivity, so you'll be able to use your phone/trackpad in the cold. These are a great value, but they'll be the least forgiving of poor measurements so be careful to get this right!

Lastly, long underwear. I've never met a suit that kept my legs warm, so these merino wool underwear are amazing. A good pair of these will keep you warm on the coldest days but be breathable and soft enough to keep on under your slacks all day (or you can remove them at work, of course).

Most of these things are for the coldest days. You won't need anything like them most of the time, but you'll be glad when you have them. You'll also want an overcoat somewhat like this, some more stylish scarves, etc. For dress shoes, just be vigilant about cleaning the salt off! I'd never run into road salt before moving here, but there will be months where it's on all the sidewalks and it just ruins leather. Get some leather conditioner (I like this stuff) and apply it to your shoes regularly to keep them in good condition. Dry leather becomes cracked leather which becomes useless leather.

I hope this helps!

Figured my routine might be useful to people looking at this kind of thing:

For the interior I highly, highly recommend using Nextzett Cockpit Premium. I ordered like 23 different interior products off of Amazon and it was the only one I liked for a true matte look inside that didn’t smell weird. I use it on everything except the screen, and it really does a great job of cleaning without leaving behind shine or residue.

I use a Sunjoe pressure washer for the outside, and a foam cannon. I use Adams Ultra Foam on my wife’s M3, and on mine I use CarPro Reset (I have Xpel Stealth). I use the two bucket method after foaming the car down. The pressure washer is super easy to use and was a great investment.

I dry with an Adams Air Cannon and it’s amazing if you are washing your car in your garage or driveway. No messing with towels or possible scratches. It’s extremely powerful, I was pretty surprised. Plus the air is warm and filtered.

For wheels I use Griots Heavy Duty Wheel cleaner, with a Chemical Guys brush. I’ve never been a “clean your wheels” kind of guy before my Tesla, but it’s really easy to do.

For interior scent, I have tried countless products. It’s actually almost sad how many car scent products I have tried (not a smoker, just like a good smelling car). The only one that I would recommend is Ozium in the can, not aerosol. It has a light citrus smell that gets tons of compliments like “your car always smells so clean and fresh, not fake or like cologne”. The only other close contender is Dr Beasleys Leather, closely followed by their New Car Scent. It’s actually the only New Car scent I can stand. I settled on Ozium because it’s set and forget. I keep a small can in the front of my car, and a big can in the trunk.

I hate waterless washing for the most part (saving the planet aside) just because it’s never really as effective as a full wash without ten times the work. ONR is a good product though, and easy to use.

Best thing I ever did on both of our M3s is getting a professional ceramic coating put on. Washing is about ten times as easy as it was before, and drying is about 20x. Definitely recommend it, on both a wrapped or unwrapped car.

Oh man, I love when people ask stuff like this on Reddit. I bootblack, and have worked on countless leather boots! Frye boots are lovely.

First off, what kind finish do your Melissa Buttons have, or did they have when you got them? For instance, looking at the current line, Antiqued/Polished can take polish, Rugged should not be polished, and Suede will have an entirely different cleaning/care routine from the other two. I'll assume it's closer to the first two for the following.

For any leather that's not suede or nubuck, the first step is cleaning. You can pick up some saddle soap (Kiwi exists in your local drug store or grocery store and is totally fine) or use just about any mild soap - I regularly use diluted Dr. Bronners. You want to create a lather and scrub that into the leather, and then wipe the boot down with a damp, not wet, rag. Be sure to get all the suds off the boot, but don't soak it either. If it's really dirty, feel free to repeat this step!

Then, I would choose a conditioner. I'd actually stay away from an animal-based oil like neatsfoot oil or mink oil, as well as less-stable oils like olive oil, since those could go rancid with too much humidity. I'm a big fan of Obenauf's, which gives good deep conditioning with just a bit of product (seriously, a little goes a long way) and has a pretty neutral scent. Frye actually sells a conditioning cream of their own, which I imagine would also be fine. Pretty much anything with a beeswax base is also good. Apply with your fingers so you can really rub it into the leather - the heat from your hands will help work it in.

Finally, if your boot is the sort that would look better with some shine, I would wait a day or two to let the conditioner soak in and then apply a bit of cream polish - this will give your boots some shine, but it won't be like, patent-leather mirror shiny, which I feel would be the wrong style for Frye boots. Kiwi also sells these, but Meltonian is my go-to. With cream polish, you apply a light coat and then buff the boot with a shoe brush in light, fast strokes. You can use your fingers to apply the polish, but it'll dye your fingertips, so either wear gloves or use a rag or a polish brush. Buff the boot until it's shiny to your liking!

Don't worry too much, it's pretty hard to ruin a good pair of boots while taking care of them. They'll definitely be happier with a bit of TLC!

Shoes:

1. Lowa / I went with their Renegade model, but depending on your local climate, something else might make more sense.
   
   
2. I gave Vasque shoes two tries, both pairs split at the seams on the inside near the front of the foot. Total crap.
   
   
3. I think Merrell is ~okay. I haven't tried higher-end models. Their cheaper models usually last me one field season, tops, but they for sure don't break like the Vasques do.
   
   
4. If you're getting good shoes, make sure to treat them well, too. This wax worked well on my leather, and I treated with silicone afterwards.
   
   You'll have to keep re-treating, and watch out for issues like gumboot (clogged leather pores). I've also read that treating with liquid oil like mink instead of wax can weaken the leather by hydrating it and making it, yes, more supple -- but also softer.
   
   Pants:
   
   Ditch jeans. KUHL makes the best field pants I've tried. They're more durable, lighter, and are generally very good. Go to an REI to see how different versions fit. KUHL makes jeans and similar pants, too, but their lighter field pants are much better in most conditions.
   
   Socks...too many options, none of them stood out for me. As long as you have enough pairs of thick hiking socks and can cycle through clean pairs every day or so, you should be fine. Synthetic socks typically dry faster than wool. That's about the only major / consistent difference in my experience.

I have always used either Chelsea Leather Food or Lexol Leather Conditioner for my leather goods.

The Chelsea is really popular among soccer players for use on their cleats so it can be found in a reasonable number of sports stores that sell them for around 10 bucks. Make sure you get the clear stuff though.

The Lexol looks like a car care product but it was recommended to me for use on my riding boots and is extensively to keep horse tack from drying out and wearing down. Amazon is selling a liter of the stuff for 12 bucks. Because it is meant to soak in to the leather a bit, it may darken the JCP boots up some, so go with a few even, light coats first rather than just pouring the stuff on.

The Kiwi polish that you can find in drugstores everywhere is plenty good and is pretty cheap at around 3 bucks a tin. I am currently using some Brooks Brothers Shoe Cream which I got as a gift a bit ago and i love the stuff. It is a bit on the 'pricey' side at 9 bucks a jar so it is up to you.

As a last note, I would recommend getting some Saddle Soap for use after youve gone slogging through some less than clean streets and perhaps forgotten to clean your shoes for a bit. It is a great 'once and a while' product to get your shoes clean again and helps to make sure you arent polishing any dirt or grime into the shoe the next time you give them a shine.

I'm pretty new to boots as well, but I'd suggest picking up a few things if you don't have them already. This will apply to most leather shoes/boots (doesn't really apply to suede or roughout leathers... for that you'll need a suede brush)

FYI below is basically a tl;dr of this post that got me started on all of this. I recommend you read through it all and check out /r/goodyearwelt and maybe just use this post as more as a quick reference or for ideas.

• Split toe cedar shoe tree (shoe trees can be found on sale for ~$10 sometimes, but make sure they are split toe cedar shoe trees)
  
  
• Leather cleaner & conditioner (This will work great, but some people use coconut oil as a conditioner)
  
  
• Horsehair brush
  
  
• Shoe horn
  
  Once everything is acquired you'll be ready to give your boots an initial tune-up and have some daily-care tools.
  
  

1. Brush off your boots as much as you can with the horsehair brush
   
   
2. Wipe down your boots with a wet rag
   
   
3. I'm guessing you won't get everything off, so wait for them to air dry and then use the leather cleaner on them (you probably won't have to use leather cleaner every time... and you might not want to as it dries out the boot)
   
   
4. Wait for your boots to air dry
   
   
5. Condition the leather on your boots.
   
   
6. Wait for your boots to air dry
   
   
7. Repeat whenever your boots need it. On average that will probably be every 3-6 months, but the best way to tell is by feel.
   
   Daily Care
   
   

• Use a shoe horn to put your shoes on
  
  
• When you take off your shoes give them a quick brush. Ideally you'll take off the shoelaces first but it won't kill them if you don't do this every time. I'd recommend at least brushing them off once every few wears, and brush+wipedown with water/rag every 5-10 wears.
  
  
• Always put cedar shoe trees in your leather boots/shoes when you take them off and leave them in until your next wear... this is what happens if you don't. The shoe trees will help keep your boots from developing unwanted toe spring, will help control moisture inside the boot, and will keep them smelling fresh.
  
  
• Let your boots rest/dry for 24hrs in-between wears with shoe trees in. If you wear them every day you will significantly reduce their lifespan.

I decided to just go with lexol leather conditioner and it's working perfectly. It came highly recommmend in /r/goodyearwelt. Don't use Obernauf's LP unless you want to ruin your boots. Don't use waxes. Oil works well but can be a little harder to work with because of how easily it saturates the leather. If you look around this subreddit you'll see a lot of boots that are drenched when they are oiled. You don't want that. You want a healthy leather.

• Make sure your boots are dry inside and out. Don't start conditioning our boots if they are sweaty inside from you wearing them. Do it the next day after they were able to sit with cedar shoe trees in them. Also, ALWAYS USE CEDAR SHOE TREES IN YOUR BOOTS.
  
  
• Remove the laces.
  
  
• Brush out all of the dirt and dust with a horse hair brush. Any brand will do.
  
  
• Take a slightly-damp paper tower and do a once over to grab any dirt or dust hanging out. Use a damp Q-Tip and go over the welt. Do not saturate the leather with water, you are just trying to pick up the specks of dirt.
  
  
• Take a tiny bit of lexol and put it only a dry washcloth. Work it into the piece of fabric you are using. You don't want to use it like a paint brush, you want the cloth to just allow a super thin layer of conditioner to be left behind as you wipe your boots. Think like a snail-trail or something ..idk. You're not slathering the conditioner on, you're just putting a super thin coat. Like how you would season a cast-iron skillet (the right way).
  
  
• Slowly apply a thin layer over the boots, making sure to get every nook and cranny. Don't over-condition the boots. They won't be damaged, but it can weaken the leather too much and is unfavorable. Get everywhere including the tongue. Don't bother conditioning the inside, but I like to do the collar.
  
  
• I like to put them on and walk a short lap around the room to help the conditioner settle a bit. I'm not running around, just walking naturally. You'll notice that the creases created from you walking might look unconditioned now. Take the boots off. not hit that spot with a little conditioner in the same manner you've been doing.
  
  
• Take your brush and just gently go over the boot.
  
  
• Put your cedar shoe trees into them and let them sit for at least 12 hours. Don't wear them in the rain for at least 24.
  
  
• If this is your first conditioning, I would do it a month or so after you started wearing your boots. There is a lot of conversation over the frequency of conditioning, but the best thing is to do is use your judgement. If the leather looks like it is getting too dry, re-condition with a tiny bit of lexol. If they get dirty, brush off the dirt thoroughly and maybe go over with a slightly-damp paper towel and consider that dirt dries leather out. You won't need to condition weekly. Some people do it monthly. Some only twice a year. And some neglectful boot-owners never condition them. I think every other month might be a good time frame, but like I said, use your judgement.

Ya gotta be a TOUGH MANLY MAN to make it through NorthEast winters.....

Just kidding, man. It's a great question, actually. This is my experience...

You're going to need wool socks to keep your feet warm. I personally like Darn Tough socks and some from a label called Mountain View I got at Ocean State Job Lot for $4.00 (70% merino). You don't have to spend a ton of money to get wool socks. TJ Maxx and Marshalls have slightly irregulars on sale quite often around here. Not sure about California, tho. Avoid cotton socks. Run far, far away from acrylic socks. Look for socks that are mostly (>50%) wool. Nylon will give them some durability.

You're also going to need to learn how to take care of your boots! Maybe you do this already, but if not...

The simplest thing to do is wipe them off with a clean towel after you get back indoors.

You're also going to have to treat your leather boots with some kind of dressing. Frequency varies, but at least once a year. Once a month is probably overkill. So find something in-between that works for you.

This is strictly in my opinion and experience, but the two best products I've found for this are Obenauf's Leather Protector and Huberd's Shoe Grease. WARNING: Obenauf's WILL darken the leather. That's no big deal to me but for some people it's a non-starter. Huberd's doesn't seem to darken leather, but YMMV.

Lastly, Bick #4 does a real nice job of conditioning and cleaning leather shoes/boots. I only use this when I think my shoes/boots are looking a little grubby. Bick #4 does NOT darken leather at all.

I hope you get a chance to "enjoy" a "real winter" sometime soon. One of the most fun experiences I've ever had was hanging out with a buddy from India who had never experienced snow before. He thought it was glorious. It made me take a new look at it, and winter CAN be glorious if you want it to be.

Great timing on the question I'm looking to treat my Demonic Red leather seats and love the matte finish. My seats generally stay clean, so a dry soft microfiber is what I have been using. I'm looking to protect and treat the leather to keep it from cracking over time, while NOT adding shine.

​

I didn't do such a good job treating my scat pack seats and after 4 years noticed the beginning of wear and creases. Not really noticeable to the normal person, but my OCD was triggered... I had been using Turtle wax blue Ice which is great 1 step for cleaning and protecting normal leather or fake leather, but not really a good regimen for protecting soft leathers.

​

I've been researching for a while and found my 2 go to brands have products that "allegedly" work really well at cleaning and conditioning without adding shine. It's really tough to find good true reviews with all the sponsored content out there. These are the 2 products I plan to order and test.

​

• Chemical guys cleaner and conditioner $19.00
  
• Adam's cleaner and conditioner $28.89
  
  ​
  
  The basic process is to clean the leather with a proper leather cleaner first to remove any dirt and oils from your skin that build up over time, this can create issues with the leather even though you condition regularly. Once you have a clean surface you can then treat with conditioner, let soak in, then buff off. I'll be using my favorite microfiber towels 1 for cleaning 1 for conditioning and 1 for buffing off.

1. Lexol Leather Cleaner and Conditioner is very good. Usually readily available (at least here in the states), and inexpensive and effective. The cleaner is very mild, so if you need something stronger to remove stubborn dirt you can try a diluted all purpose cleaner. Megiuar's is very safe for interior and can be diluted. I've also used Megiuar's Quick Interior Detailer and it works very well, and doesn't leave any sort of residue behind.
   
   
2. Try something like 303 Aerospace protectant or Cockpit Premium. https://www.amazon.com/nextzett-92470515-Cockpit-Premium-16-9/dp/B0002Z2MZ4/ They will leave behind UV protection without any greasy residue. Very good quality premium products.
   
   
3. Any cheap brush will do. More expensive brushes will just hold up better over time, not really worth it IMO if you are just cleaning your personal car. I use a couple of cheap brushes from Amazon and a couple of paint brushes and they work just fine. Whatever you can find locally for a good price. I have separate brushes for carpet, interior plastics, and a tire and wheel brush so I don't cross-contaminate. Also, you need a stiffer bristle for carpets than you do for plastics obviously.
   
   
4. Any microfiber from The Rag Company. I believe they just recently opened their Europe store last month. https://www.theragcompany.shop/
   
   
5. You don't need a steamer, it just makes things faster to clean. If you have dirty upholstery that needs to be cleaned, just use an all purpose cleaner diluted in a spray bottle, spray it down, let it sit for a few minutes, then blot clean with a rag. For carpets, you can do a bit of scrubbing with a brush first, and then blot dry with a rag to soak up moisture and remove the dirt. This video will show you how to do it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OiO52BU256M
   
   Also, Larry from Ammo NYC has some amazing videos that are worth watching that will teach you a lot. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R0EOb2nEWtk&t=684s
   
   Hope this helps!

I bought this exact listing from Amazon. It comes with a pad and the Lexol has instructions on the package as far as application, but it isn't too tough. Just make sure the leather is clean, and try pouring like a quarter-sized amount onto the cleaning pad. You can work up from there if you want to use more at one time. The good thing about Lexol is you can wipe off excess with a clean cloth (I use a spare washcloth) and no harm done.

Personally, I wipe down first with an old rag, then use the cleaner if needed (usually isn't). Then I brush, use the conditioner, and let it sit a while. Then I wipe clean and let it sit for a while again. It's kind of a superstitious process to be honest. If you're conditioning your leather on a schedule and using shoe trees, you're already doing way more than the average person.

Remember that the Lexol WILL darken your leather a little. I tried to show some comparisons in my original post. But the coconut oil will be more in my experience.

Edit: I actually bought the "Like New" version via an Amazon Warehouse deal to save a couple bucks. it was basically just an open box item. Neither bottle had been opened.

> wheel cleaner plus would be an infrequent use, not every time. D143 would be your every-time use.

So, should I get both or just Meguiar's D143?

> griots fast correcting cream and a microfiber cutting pad from meguiars for the cutting portion of the polishing. replaces 105 and maybe the heaviest foam pad, but i'd just get a microfiber cutting pad in addition to the others.

Would you happen to have a link to both? I am a little confused on what those are.

> Meguiar's D120 glass cleaner concentrate instead of rainx glass cleaner. a gallon will last you the rest of your life. (dilute 1:10)

Seems like a lot, but I guess it is more worth it in the long run.

> a more neutral soap like Adam's or Optimum's. Gold Class has wax additives.

These are a little more expensive (unless I am looking at the wrong one). Is Optimum Car Wash CW2006G the correct one?

> as for concerns: do not use D143 on plastics. don't spray it on the wheel wells either. wheels only. yes you can use optibond on all plastics

Should I stick with Meguiar's D101 in for the plastics, wheel wells, and wheels?

> 303 Aerospace will protect your dashboard. Leatherique has a good conditioner but really you're not going to be able to stop creases from forming.

What would be a recommended cleaner for either/both? Should I use 303 Aerospace Protectant on with the leather conditioner as well? Should I get both the Leatherique Leather Rejuvenator/Prestine Clean or just the Leatherique Prestine Clean?

I'd say no to the cover- you bought the seats so enjoy them!. What I'd do is head down to a local auto store and purchase leather interior cleaner and conditioner - something like this https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10916-Leather-Cleaner-Conditioner/dp/B0002V9IFU

Along with this get some microfiber towels to use when cleaning the seats. You can always get the cover if you destroy the seats in 10 years . I'd use the seats and leather for you, not the next owner.

For wax you can spread it however you like. Machines (dual orbital polishers) are better, but if you're happy with hand wax results don't bother spending more $$. Again, I tend to like meguiars, you can check out their liquid and paste waxes. From what I remember the liquid is easier to apply. Again, grab some more microfibers. Every 6 months should suffice

If you plan on carrying supplies keeping a blanket is a great idea. Also if you are in a in a cold climate you can keep a blanket - but I wouldn't worry about EVER getting stranded in a well-maintained corolla (key: follow the maintenance schedule and don't skip stuff!!!)

ALSO: WASH THE CAR EVERY 2 WEEKS. Even though you can't see a lot of grime its there. This will prevent it from rusting up a la monte carlo

Enjoy the new car !

I also have a David King weekender bag! Same shade, but a bit smaller in size. I've had it about 4 years and it's in similar condition to yours. It's a really lovely bag and was such a great value. I get so many compliments on it.

I just used it for a trip last week and am considering applying a leather conditioner to it. I just noticed a few areas were looking a bit drier and worn. I'm certainly not complaining about their quality-- any leather product is going to need some love to keep it looking new. Their website recommends using a leather conditioner for good measure.

I was planning on buying a bottle of Chamberlain's Leather Milk to use on it. I'll do a spot test, though I fully expect it to darken a few shades once the conditioner's applied.

Buy three buckets, one for wheels, the others for a two bucket system.

Buy something to clean the wheels as well. I have the wheel woolies but I'm going to ask for the woolly wormit for my birthday from my wife.

Get a Waterless Wash and/or Quick Detailer for the times when you don't need a wash but you want to clean stuff up.

Take a look into this new Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic Wax for a sealant. I have used the Fast Finish and it's great so this should be even better.

I also use Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Wax (D156 is the same but in a gallon jug) as a drying aid and it makes the car POP!


As a final suggestion, buy some 303 for the interior. You're going to love it. Not greasy, smells okay (not fruity), and leaves things looking great.

Kaboom with Oxiclean + tooth brush, then wipe clean with a microfiber towel has worked well for me. Be sure to give the cleaner a good minute or more of contact time to work its magic on the mildew before wiping clean.

The magic eraser suggested by others will work quicker, but it will also scour off the top layer of your vinyl which will likely weaken it and remove UV protection. If you must go the magic eraser route be as gentle as possible, and be sure to generously re-coat the vinyl with 303 protectant to protect against UV damage.

And if all else fails, vinyl can be repainted to look like new. I had great results a few years ago with this white dye followed by a few coats of this clear coat on my seats. They are still holding up great after a few years of heavy use and many cleanings.

Meguiars is a good over the counter alternative to some of the other options and has pretty solid products. That being said, its rarely best in class for any single product, but will almost certainly rank higher than black magic or Armour All in any head to head.

303 is a great product for both look and protection. It has some UV blockers that will keep your black plastic looking better for longer and is pretty cheap. Also works well on interior plastics as well and you can sometimes find it in hardware stores.

I'd also agree with Brooklyn's recommendation of the Opti-Bond as it is one of my preferred tire gels.

Though I don't use leather boots at the brewery, I'm a huge boot nerd.

One of the biggest rules of leather boot care is letting your boots rest for at least 24 hours before wearing again. This gives time for all the moisture to be wicked away, especially from accumulated sweat while working. Cedar shoe trees are also your best friend, and will help even more with taking away moisture (plus they smell awesome). Put them in immediately after use!

As for leather care itself, coconut oil or Obenauf's oil are both excellent. Brush your boots with shoe brush, or wipe them down with a damp warm cotton cloth. Let dry, then apply the oil to the leather with your fingers, working the it in naturally with the warmth from your body (you'll feel sexy). Let the boots dry overnight, and then they'll be good to go! Coconut oil or Obenauf's will darken the leather a bit, so be aware of that.

I would shoot for twice a month for conditioning - really depends on how hard you work your boots.

Hope that helps!

To understand what shoe care needs: Shoe Care Guide

To clean leather products: Saddle Soap

To condition leather products: Venetian Shoe cream (VSC) or Saphir Renovateur or [Allen Edmonds Leather Lotion] (http://www.allenedmonds.com/aeonline/cati2_ShoeCareProductss_1_40000000001_-1________subcategory#facet=&sId=216&sort=5&ps=1000&bi=0)

To "protect" leather you have 2 options:

1. "Light" protection (Not permanent) - Mink oil. (WILL DARKEN LEATHER!! - Not recommended on light leathers / dress shoes)
   
   
2. "Heavy-duty" protection - Obenauf's or Sno Seal
   
   If you're walking around in snow / rain with dress shoes: Galoshes/ Overshoes
   
   
   
   And being more specific helps. If you live in warmer climates, Mink oil and Obenauf's are most likely unnecessary, and products like VSC and Saphir would be great.
   
   Avoid products from DSW and most B&M stores (unless well reviewed and recommended!) and the likes as they aren't great in quality (personal experience) - and if you're spending hundreds on shoes, consider spending a few dollars more to taking care of them goes far.

Mink Oil is alright, but you should really check out Obenaufs leather cleaner. It's probably the best leather restorer out there right now. It will turn the leather a darker colour than the mink oil, but it won't leave a nasty white film on top like the mink oil tends to leave.
Honestly, unless you live in a very arid climate, the chances are your crepe sole will need to be replaced before you ever really even need to treat the leather.

Ok I was really debating between Obenauf's or sno seal, but I think you convinced me about Obernauf. But which Obenauf's should I use the heavy duty lp http://www.amazon.com/Obenaufs-Heavy-Duty-4oz-Preserves/dp/B003SKCARK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1382402091&sr=8-1&keywords=Obenauf%27s

The boot preservative
http://www.amazon.com/Obenaufs-LP-Boot-Preservative-Preserves/dp/B0002X520S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1382402091&sr=8-2&keywords=Obenauf%27s

Or the silicone water shield
http://www.amazon.com/Obenaufs-Silicone-Water-Shield-Environmentally/dp/B002UBLSO4/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1382402091&sr=8-6&keywords=Obenauf%27s

Or maybe a combination of the heavy duty lp and the silicone water shield? I don't want to spend more money then necessary but before I take my boots out into the world I want to make sure they're properly prepared for the elements. Oh and thanks for the help guys! All of this is very informative and helpful.

>I hear mink oil is of dubious quality and in general organic products cause the leather to more quickly deteroriate.

Mink oil and Obenauf's etc. are made for very harsh conditions - unless you're wading through the countryside, it's like putting on a scuba suit when there's a light drizzle outside. If you live in a city, you're fine. Said products will not cause a 'quick' deterioration - it's over a long period of time. They will also cause the leather to darken and lose some of its depth of color.

>What's the deal with cleaning? I'm leaning toward Saddle Soap to clean my boots. How effective is, say, using just a boot brush, regular soap, and wet paper towels to clean dirt from your boots? Can you use a clean t-shirt rag to clean?

Saddle soap dries out leather - it's soap, after all. It's overkill for regular boot care. A damp cloth or rag works fine for cleaning regular messes.

>I'm leaning toward using regular polish and no waterproofers or sealant. Do boots need polish or just shoes? Does polish protect at all? Does the polish process clean at all? I'm assumming you match the polish color to your leather. How important is this match--do you have multiple brown polishes or just one?

Waterproofers and sealant are unnecessary - leather is naturally water resistant and needs to breathe. If they get wet, dry them with a cloth then put in your cedar shoe trees (or crumpled newspaper) to absorb excess moisture. Polish isn't really essential on workboots like those Apaches (since the aesthetic is based around getting them scuffed and beaten up), but it can be used to hide scuffmarks if you want to keep them pristine (IMO missing the point). Polishing doesn't clean by itself, and will probably trap stuff underneath. The importance of the match depends on how specific you are about the boot's color. I don't remember if the Apaches are a pull-up leather, but on boots made of pull-up leather you can get rid of scuffs simply by rubbing them until they disappear.

>I am planning to buy unvarnished cedar trees and a boot brush for cleaning, as they appear to be necessary for the life of the boots. Do you have any suggestions? It seems like most are the same in quality.

Just buy split-toe shoe trees made of actual cedar (instead of plastic etc.). As long as they're in the right size, you're fine.

It appears that you're really overthinking this. Leather is naturally very strong and water-resistant, and doesn't need to be babied with a massive variety of products - at least for a workboot like the Chippewa Apache (high-end dress shoes may require more finesse).

Here's what I do:

1. Put cedar shoe trees into the boots when they are not in use.
   
   
2. Every couple days, wipe down the boots with a damp cloth or brush to get rid of accumulated crap.
   
   
3. Every ~3 months, take out the laces, clean the boots thoroughly with a damp cloth, then clean the welt with a wet Q-tip. Wait for an hour (until they dry), then condition with Lexol and an old t-shirt. Wait for four hours, then re-lace them. Ready to wear. Bam.

Most of the time I'm living in a flat so what I do it use a quick detailer (US link / UK link) and microfibre (US link / UK link) to keep things clean between proper washes. In fact I keep a bottle of quick detailer and a one of glass cleaner in the car at all times (I wrap a microfibre cloth around the spray head and put the combo in the driver/passenger door pocket).

Basically if you can catch any big, obvious dirt e.g. bird crap, early then it makes things easy.

If you manage to get some time, putting on a good coat of really hard wearing wax (US link / UK link) or sealant (US link / UK link) will be really helpful. It should last a year and make cleaning with quick detailer much easier.


As for the headlights, the yellow colour comes from the plastic oxidising. You need to scrub away that layer and then protect it. Toothpaste works quite well but there are dedicated products like (US link / UK link). Afterwards I'd apply some 303 Aerospace protectant (US link / UK link) which is also great for the interior plastic.

Lexol is a pretty easy catch-all when it comes to cleaning and conditioning, definitely the best bang-for-your-buck, and will minimally color/darken your shoes.

That being said, my new favorite conditioner for oil-tanned leathers (like most IR models) is Saphir Cuir Gras. Much more expensive, but for that you get a higher quality product with more natural ingredients like neatsfoot oil. Also has a very pleasant almond smell.

Welcome!

Since it's turning you into a car guy...If you have the space, or even if you can borrow the space from a friend, DIY your general maintenance. It's so easy on this car.

You can do a 15-20 minute oil change without getting under the car by getting a fluid extractor like this one: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben-parts/65-liter-fluid-extractor/011885sch01a/

Maintenance schedule is here: http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26312

Approved Oils are here (but just use Mobil1 0w-40, its fine and cheap): http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4017

Filter part numbers are here: http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16502

Lots of other great info/people on golfmk7 too.

Diluted Simple Green is a good all purpose cleaner you can use. Aerospace 303 Protectant can't be beat for all the plastic surfaces and dash. Use only microfibers.

You will probably want to get Gummi Pflege to lubricate your door seals. You will want to clean them with simple green or the like BEFORE you rub the Gummi on them so that you are removing the dirt and not causing the applicator of the Gummi to get gross.

https://www.amazon.com/nextzett-91480615-Gummi-Pflege-Rubber/dp/B004B8GTQG/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1522191200&sr=1-1&keywords=gummi+pflege

For your tint, with the small triangle windows by the mirrors, if the shop you go to wants to charge you extra, put vinyl on the outside of them or remove trim to tint them, walk away, they aren't good enough. None of those things are necessary. Expect to pay $250-600 depending on the tint and the area you live in.

You can fix these if you like.

Leather filler will take care of the cracking (though yours isn't bad) and a heat gun or hair dryer can be moved over the surface to shrink the leather and tighten it up in the seat and back. I'd do that before it gets much worse. There are youtube videos about it.

Also, keep the leather cleaned and conditioned regularly! I've used many different products, and this is my favorite. Leatherique is better, but much harder to use. Lexol is also quite good, but I like the Meguiar's a little better.

Edit: Forgot to mention that any leather cleaner and conditioner you use will need some agitation to really get it worked in and doing its best work.

I recently got these boots two weeks ago. I have to say after a brief break-in period of a few days after treating them with Obenauf's and leather lotion they are comfy and the leather has softened well. I've compared the build and leather to my brother's Wolverine 1000 Mile Boots and they are similar enough that you should have one or the other, not both (unless you need another color boot of course). I was deciding between the lighter brown and the cordovan, the reddish brown of the latter looks great and didn't darken or alter after leather treatment.


The sole is by Vibram and I haven't had any slipping issues where I live in NorCal. Replacement of the sole after wear shouldn't be too hard for a cobbler and I plan on caring for these boots for a lifetime.

Sizing wise, I sized a whole size down. I usually wear a 9.5D with my Nike Free Run 2, so I went down to 8.5D. Perfect fit.

I say go for it and pull the trigger, the 30% discount makes the boots worth to try out and return if not satisfied.

If I'm able to ill post pics of them.

EDIT: Had work, took pics before leaving.

Here you go.

My parents' neighbor has been watching as I borrow Mom and Dad's hose and he recently asked if I could take on his car and I was happy to oblige! Overall, the exterior was in okay shape - couple bugs, a few spots of tree sap and bird poo, as well as just a good amount of dirt and mud tucked in some spaces. I gave the car a two bucket wash, clay, Iron X treatment, Iron X, clay and topped it off with a sealant. Thanks for pointing out that I listed my procedure out of order, /u/Deadfable! Here's the deets:

Products Used:

• Meguiar's Gold Class Shampoo
  
• Optimum No Rinse (Quick Detailer dilution for claying)
  
• CarPro's Iron X for decontamination
  
• Nanoskin AutoScrub Fine Grade Sponge
  
• Meguiar's D101 (4:1 on tires, wheel wells - 10:1 on the interior)
  
• Aerospace 303 Protectant for interior dressing
  
• Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid Wax
  
• Harbor Freight DA Polisher w/ Buff & Shine 5.5" red pad
  
• Wheel Woolies
  
• Solo Horton Brushes
  
• Other assorted brushes
  
• Microfiber towels from The Rag Company
  

• 0000 Steel Wool from Home Depot (used with QD for the exhaust tips)
  

• Optimum Opti-Bond Tire Gel applied via foam block
  
• Stoner's Invisible Glass
  
  Overall a fun job! Got rewarded with a hearty lunch of sausage and peppers on Italian bread. Happy detailer!!

I had that same top on my last 72 Bronco, and I loved it more than my hard top. I was referred this stuff to clean and protect it with no issues. I would highly recommend it...

Raggtopp Convertible Top Vinyl Cleaner & Protectant Kit 16 ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KKJ1I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_82AHDbW27J6ZY

The side windows are prone to scratches, so store them flat if you can if you take them off.

The rear window rolls up into the top, and you are going to want to clean any dirt and debrit off prior to rolling it up. Any dirt left on there will rub in between the rolled layers. I used this stuff on the windows... It's like glass cleaner, but meant for plastic windows

Plexus Plastic Cleaner, Protectant and Polish (13-Ounce) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00092CKN4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_m7AHDb0STJCPP

If you take care of that top, it'll last you a long time. They're really well made.

Most winter gloves have a visor squeege on the left thumb. I've only needed to use mine 3 or 4 times, when the fog mist is significant enough to cloud my vision, but not significant enough to get blown away by the wind when I turn my head.

Don't use RainX, it may gradually make the visor plastic more brittle, meaning an explosion of sharp plastic bits in your face if you go down with a visor impact. This almost certainly isn't true of all visors, but it's nearly impossible to be certain.

Basic car wax or [Plexus plastic cleaner/protectant](http://www.amazon.com/Plexus-Plastic-Cleaner-Protectant-13-Ounce/dp/B00092CKN4/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1382548401&sr=1-1&keywords=plexus
) are your best bets when it comes to convincing the water to bead up and roll off more easily.

Be careful when using oil on shoes and boots. Most of them will darken the leather. If you plan on repeatedly using the boots in heavy snow or rain oil will help weather proof them. Otherwise there isn't any real reason to. Every couple months give the boots a good rub down with a leather conditioner. It'll help keep the leather from drying out and restore some luster.

I like Lexol; it's cheap, it works and it doesn't darken the leather. A jug this size will last you years. Of course there are plenty of options out there, feel free to do the research. There's a lot to learn. Just keep in mind that products containing oil (especially mink) or wax will darken the leather.

Equally important is to get a shoe brush if you haven't already. With five minutes, a brush and a little elbow grease you can get your boots looking great without having to use any product. You don't want to over condition leather as it can weaken it over time.

It really depends on how much work you want to do. A quick brush shine with some polish will do a lot to make them look better but if you want to rejuvenate them it will take more work.

Step 1. Clean the boot. Saddle soap works but there are good leather cleaners out there. I will link to the one I use. A damp cloth and some elbow grease will work as well, although to a lesser extent.

Step 2. Condition the leather. There are a lot of options. I use lexol with comes with a cleaner. https://www.amazon.ca/Lexol-907-Leather-Care-8-Ounce/dp/B005H7DRQA

Step 3. There are leather repair products that would help fix that tear on the left boot but since these are work boots I wouldn't bother.

Step 4. Brush shine with black shoe polish. Put a little polish on the boot with an applicator brush then brush off the excess with a horse hair brush.

I work in a technical environment in the military and this works wonders.

Some of this depends on how funky your interior is. I use APC for tougher stains (diluted). I use InnerClean by CG for removing dust and light stains, and it does smell like Pineapple, but the smell goes away very quickly.

I would try a car scent if you want to get away from fruity smells, something like New Car Smell by CG.

Cloth Seats - Give them a good vacuum and go over any spots with a cloth and cleaner.

APC has the ability to be diluted for all types of tasks, and sometimes the manufacturers are helpful and put them on the side of the bottle. It can be dialed down for interior use and use full strength for the nasties you find in your engine/wheels.

Scratches showing through the clearcoat and the paint will require touch up paint. That white color is most likely your primer. Compounding will not remove this.

EDIT: Saw the seats are cloth.

I drive a 15' BRZ and live in FL

https://www.amazon.com/303-30313-CSR-Protectant-Plastic-Fiberglass/dp/B00KN0UOEE/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1499474713&sr=8-7&keywords=interior+cleaner

I see 303 get a lot of good reviews on how nice their interiors look after applying. Is 303 a cleaner or just a UV protectant? Am I better off buying something like Chemical Guy's Interior Detailer and Protectant? or Meguiar's

https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-SPI-663-InnerClean-Protectant/dp/B008LPKV28/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499476506&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=interior+detailer&psc=1

I keep my interior pretty clean. I do a quick dust wipe with a microfiber every few days so the dust doesn't build up. And every few weeks I'm looking to wipe it down and touch it up with an interior detailer and was wondering which one is preferred.

Right off the bat I can tell you that this can cleaned up and looking good again. You might have to use some more advance techniques to get it looking brand new. But let’s try this first before we talk about more technical leather repair suggestions. I recommend watching this video on YouTube. It’s not me in the video, but it gives you a good idea of how something so dirty/damaged can look new again. Instead of Lexol, I personally use the Chemical Guys leather cleaner and conditioner combo. Nothing wrong with Lexol though. I started off on that brand when learning the ins and outs on detailing. Maybe pick up some good Microfiber (MF) towels too. Let me know if that works for you and if not, head on over to r/AutoDetailing and we’ll take care of you.

Edit: words

Obenauf makes a leather oil that is better for treating/conditioning dry leather.

Saddle Soap is a great product to clean and maintain boots without drying them out.

Red Wing also makes Mink Oil and a number of other leather treatments to weatherproof boots.

You could get him 1 of each, and a cleaning brush and put it all in a wooden cigar box. ($1-5 at a tobacco store) and it would be a great gift.

I just was looking for this two weeks ago and I couldn't find a decent answer. We have a white extremely short hair dog and my gf's car had black interior. Needless to say there was no way a shop vac was getting that hair out, it was like velcro to the cloth seats/carpet.

I went to pet stores and they tried to sell me lint rollers and other useless stuff, then I went to Meijer (a 24 supercenter here in the MI, OH area) and went to their pet section. They had a rubber bristled brush, almost exactly like this one

(http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-ACC_S06-Electrostatic-Removal/dp/B0042B4B3U/ref=sr_1_7?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1370467711&sr=1-7&keywords=rubber+brush)

It worked great, I just had to keep going. Use the brush with one hand, moving it different ways and then "sweep" the hair into a running shop vac. It'll take awhile (it took me 2 hours for a hatchback focusing on the back seats), but it will be worth it. I then re-vacuumed and used my Mytee Lite to finish the job.

Looks great.

Good luck and take your time.

Also don't waste your time with tape, it's useless.

Neighbor used bug spray to show me how great it would "restore" her headlights. I have already explained that is not a great method.


What's the best way to go about fixing what she did? I'm just planning to wash it and maybe throw some Collinite845 or PlastX on it. (I won't be going through an entire restoration process, at best I'd use the TurtleWax box kit as I've read it's the best off-the-shelf product.)

If you were curious the are removable but only lock in one position, not two like some of the other styles.

Since I used 'dye' and not paint I didn't have to do much honestly, the product was amazing.

It gave a very nice finish and kept the original texture.
I applied 3 coats, most of the time/work was in cleaning the keyboard and caps.

1. thanks for the advice, I wasnt going to return them as it will be quite a hassle, will this boot cream work
   http://www.redwingheritage.com/eu/EUR/product/care-products/boot-cream-brown-97112
   Or do you recommend something else?
   
   
2. I think the 9.5 would have fit me better or maybe too loose, anyway I live in eastern Europe so Zappos and Amazon are less generous with their shipping and returning policy.
   I was thinking about buying some ibsoles, there are no supeefeet where I live, but I found these in a store : http://www.scholl.co.uk/home/foot-care/gelactive
   I don't know if I should get them or try others
   
   3)should I buy the lexol cleaner as well? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002F9YIC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1472830931&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=lexol+cleaner&dpPl=1&dpID=41P9%2BN9cVfL&ref=plSrch
   If so then how often should I use it and shiuld I condition after if?
   How often should I clean with just a wet rag or a a shoe brush?
   And how often should I use the boot cream?
   
   Thank you very much, since they are my first pair of boot I don't want to over do it or under do it.

My first GYW pair as well, also black cherry. I picked up a Lexol Leather Care Kit that comes with leather cleaner and conditioner. I wore them a few times and then cleaned and conditioned them according to the kit instructions. After each wear I brush them down with a horse hair brush and when I'm not wearing them I put in shoe trees.

I clean/condition them after about 5-6 weeks, unless I get them really muddy or something. There are surely others on this sub with better knowledge of leather care, but this routine has been working fine for me so far. Most will recommend giving them 24 hours to rest after wearing, but, y'know, they're boots.

I have a similar car (02 540i M Package) and most likely similar leather.

I've said this in another thread a while back but I tried at least four different cleaners/conditioners from my local auto stores and found Meguiars Gold to work the best.

I used that in combination with a soft bristle nail cleaner. I guess a toothbrush would work well too. This spray is cheap enough to warrant a try I guess.

My seats are light grey but where almost brownish when I bought her from the dirt and grim. I like meguiars over the others I used because it was a thicker consistency and "ran" less. It also sprayed as a light blue color and would turn brown with grime as I worked it into the leather with the brush.

Check out Larry from Ammo on youtube he had a good video about cleaning leather that might be worth watching.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCYsa8SOy3TkoxI5D17s1u-w

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Gold-Class-Leather-Spray/dp/B0002V9IFU

Link to old post I'm referring to.
https://www.reddit.com/r/AutoDetailing/comments/2491vn/best_all_around_leather_cleanerconditioner_combo/

Good luck

The free way to perhaps help would be to clean your gaskets along the doors/hood/ and windows as well as their mating surfaces with just warm soapy water and rinsing them off. You could also buy a quality water-based gasket conditioner to treat them with after cleaning them to counteract any drying out with something like this or this!

Don't use armor all on any interior or exterior pieces of your vehicle if you care about it.
This is some of the best stuff for your dash/console. https://www.amazon.com/303-30313-CSR-Protectant-Plastic-Fiberglass/dp/B00KN0UOEE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501602370&sr=8-1&keywords=303+aerospace+protectant
Lexol is pretty good for leather, or check out chemical guys whole line of products for a good price to performance ratio.

So, first I have to say, that's the proper color for a guitar in that finish.

That said, it's your guitar, you can do with it as you see fit. It's yellowed because the outermost layer of the polyurethane finish it's coated with is yellowed. Your best best would be something like this to polish up and remove the yellowing from that outmost layer.

Definitely check in an inconspicuous area first though, it's not exactly a standardized process.

I just toothpasted my car over the weekend. It does indeed work. Just buy some simple Crest toothpaste with whitener in it. I doubt the chemical compounds of the toothpaste do anything, but what you are getting is a very mild abrasive compound.

Take a spray bottle of water, slather up some toothpaste on a rag and cover the head light and buff and buff and buff. When you think you've ground down the surface layer enough, spray more water on and rinse and wipe clean.

If this doesnt do it, you can step up to something like Bar Keeper's Friend mixed with water for more abrasion. You can also try 1000 & 2000 grit wet sanding, however you have to be careful sanding them as you could make the surface even more rough and cause it to cloud up again more quickly.

Follow it up with some Meguiars Plastic X polish and you should be good to go. http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-PlastX-Plastic-Cleaner-Polish/dp/B0000AY3SR

Pick up some chain lube, a can of plexus, and a microfiber towel. These are really simple things that are easy to overlook, but make a difference.

It's pretty easy to roll the bike a couple feet and spray the chain in sections every few hundred miles even without a stand.

I'm always surprised at how much less fatiguing a long ride is with a clean visor. Just less things for your brain to process if there aren't as many bugs in your vision.

http://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Teflon-Chain-Saver-Self-Cleaning-Lubricant/dp/B00KMMFE8Y

http://www.amazon.com/Plexus-Plastic-Cleaner-Protectant-13-Ounce/dp/B00092CKN4/

I'm fairly new, myself. I've driven clunkers most of my life. Spent about five years downtown where I didn't have a car. Now I'm back in suburbia, so I've got a brand new GTI, and it's the first one I've ever cared to take good care of. Here's what I started with:

• Meguiar's D101 APC - the D103 APC+ has apparently been discontinued.
  
• Two Chemical Guys detailing bucket kits, which each have a bucket, lid, grit guard, 16oz citrus wash, and some washing pad thing I didn't really want.
  
• Two-pack of Rag Company Dry Me a River towels
  
• Five-pack of Rag Company detailing towels
  
• Bottle of Stoner Invisible Glass
  
• Two-pack of Griot's Garage microfiber wash mitts
  
• A Nanoskin wash mitt
  
• 32oz Optimum No Rinse Wash and Wax - for use as a quick detailer and easy maintenance washing.
  
• Lexol leather care kit
  
• Thee-pack of spray bottles
  
• A microfiber window towel
  
• A cheap electric blower
  
• 16oz Chemical Guys Jetseal
  
• Microfiber applicators
  
  I should have picked up some of Chemical Guys' citrus wash and clear, too, to help deal with a winter's worth of grime left by terrible touchless car washes. I've also got a tire brush, hand vacuum, and some assorted cheap microfiber towels around already.
  
  Your kit looks a lot more cost-effective, though. Throw in some cheap buckets, grit guards, wash mitts, and drying towel, and an extra stack of cheap microfibers and you're still under $100 for practically everything you would need for a proper two-bucket wash and wax.

I love love love leather dye it really is so easy. I have dyed coats, purses, boots, and a pair of pants so far. I use Fiebings Leather Dye amazon link. There are lots of tutorials out there but I'll tell you what works for me. This is for boots because I wanted them to last, purses coats etc were a lot less steps but anyway!

0-I didn't do this step because the chemical is illegal to buy in California but if you have a coated leather piece, something that's really shiny is usually how you would tell I gather, you would use a leather stripper here. But again I never did this.


1-Wash with Fiebings Saddle Soap


2-After it dries paint on your leather dye. I always did two coats although a lot of times it didn't need it.


3-After that dries buff the item to remove excess dye. If you forget to do that (like I do sometimes) dye will rub off on stuff.


4-Coat the item with something to perseve leather. I use either Obenauf's LP Boot Preservative or Obenauf's Leather Oil


That's it! And I definitely find the item looks a lot better after dye. The Obenaufs makes leather look amazing. And it's not animal oil so I like it a lot more than mink oil say.

I've been lurking for a while but finally made an account to ask this:

I decided to go with Red Wing Beckmans (9023) as my first high-quality footwear purchase. I also purchased a Kiwi 100% Horsehair Shine Brush, a Lexol 907 Leather Care Kit, and Woodlore Adjustable Men's Shoe Tree (Cedar).

My first question is: how should the shoe trees fit into my Beckmans? I went to a Red Wing store and got sized. They said I have wide feet and recommended I get 8.5 (I usually wear 8.5s in regular footwear like Van's and Nike). I purchased the 8.5 Beckmans and I've worn them about 8 times now. Out of paranoia, I double checked with the Red Wing store to see if the boots were creasing properly (as I have a lot of toe space and was worried that it might be too big). They assured me that It was fine. I ordered size medium (8-9.5 size) and They arrived yesterday. I inserted them into the boots but noticed that it was pretty difficult to get them in there and the heel of the shoe tree scratches against the heel of the boot when inserting. I notice if I wiggle the front of the shoe trees in a bit more before inserting the heel, it doesn't scratch the heel of the boot. I apologize if the picture quality is poor , I only have my phone at this time. Is this okay for my Beckmans? Or should I return these for a different shoe trees? I'm worried about them being stretched improperly. If I should get different ones, can someone direct me to a specific shoe tree? Here are some pictures of my 9023s with the shoe trees.

My second question is, do I need any other care products than the ones I listed above? My care regime currently will be to brush after each use, shoe trees for a minimum of 1 day before next wear, Lexol clean and condition once a month and/or after they get really dirty.

Yes. The BLO should be good enough for a working tool. I replace the finish on all my hammers and axes with BLO and they hold up well. The BLO/beeswax can feel nicer in the hand but I'm not sure that it is tougher. Though the leather will do a better job of absorbing the melted wax then wood does.

For leather I prefer obenauf over generic mink oil. I think it does a better job but I haven't run a side by side test. I put that on all leather products so I would put that on first out of habit.

Beautiful colored Subie. I use a spray on sealant by Meguiars to keep my headlights from fading, lasts well over a year.

Also, this stuff called gummi pflege stift is great for restoring and protecting old rubber door seals:

nextzett 91480615 'Gummi Pflege Stift' Rubber Care Stick - 3.4 fl. oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004B8GTQG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_r1WIAbZ52QG3J

Please don't sno-seal them, it will dull the colour so much and not be worth it at all.

I don't know where you reside, but unless you're literally walking through ankle deep wet-slush every day for kilometers, sno-seal is not needed. Just keep them well oiled with Obanauf's Leather Oil, repeating every couple weeks or so, and the leather will take care of itself. Clean salt off them with a damp paper towel as needed.

I have two pairs of Wolverine 1000 Mile boots, and it's winter/wet/slushy for 6 months of the year where I live. If the boots are conditioned with normal boot oil as above, the chromexcel has pretty good water-resisting properties already. I've walked through bouts of ankle deep water, slush, mud and snow, and never have had a problem with getting my feet wet.

Sno-Seal and Obanauf's HDLP will completely dull the colour of your boots, and obscure most of the "pull-up" and patina that makes those 1k miles you have right now look so great. It took me 2 years to wear off most of the HDLP I soaked my rust coloured 1k's in, and they look far better now that the coating has worn off and are no less water resistant.

Thanks! I'll answer your questions with some depth.

1. The maille is actually the most affordable flat ring I could find - it's the 44" haubergeon from GDFB. I got it through Kult of Athena here: http://kultofathena.com/product.asp?item=AB2462. The maille is gorgeous, it stuns people when they see it up close.
   
   

• Couple of fair warnings - I am only 5'6" and 140 lbs. so I am on the small side. Maille is interesting in that it form-fits as the rings space themselves closely. So this could fit someone slightly larger than me, but if you're big I would advise giving yourself some space.
  
  
• Next warning - the maille comes absolutely drenched in nasty oil. While it prevents rust, it will soil your clothes. I put the maille in a little bit of soapy water in a bucket, sloshed it around, and dried off just to remove some of that excess oil. But the shirt I wear is 100% dedicated to the maille as it's now quite nasty looking. Even the pants got really nasty which made me pretty sad. So buy a shirt or gambeson to use solely with your maille.
  
  
• Final warning - this stuff is heavy. The shirt weighs 19 pounds. I mean it genuinely feels dense when you pick it up. That said, when it's on you it distributes the weight fairly well. Enough that I can jump around and stuff. But god, what a pain on the shoulders. You may consider padding your shoulders if you intend to wear it for hours on end. And be prepared to test your endurance. That weight will catch up with you after a few hours.
  
  

2. The boots are a now discontinued Slavic design from Armstreet, custom to my measurements. I highly recommend their garb department! Everything I've ever got from them has been nothing short of amazing. I've used these boots heavily for 2 years and they look almost new. All I use is a bit of Bickmore leather lotion every 6 - 12 months and make sure to wipe the boots down when you get home from an event.
   
   
3. The garb is all purchased. The shirt is a linen piece by GDFB from Kult of Athena. Great quality, but it looks like a modern Indian shirt if you don't cover it up.
   
   Pants are the Flax Norman trousers from Armstreet in wine red. Custom made to my size, beautiful through and through.
   
   The mantle is actually the first piece of costume I ever bought. It's a leather hood from the Colorado Renaissance Festival. I get a lot of compliments for it!
   
   
4. I'll definitely see about shooting some photos. Right now all my stuff is dirty and needs washed though. It's nothing special - suit up in your soft kit from head to toe, boots included. Then put on the chainmail according to this video. Once the maille is on, belt it tight enough that it takes some of the weight off your shoulders. Then put on the baldric, attach the sword. Put the hood on and put the gauntlets on. Then the helmet. Et VOILA!
   
   There's no pointing of armor here, no padding, nothing special. I am looking to get some steel demi-greaves for my upper legs and knees. I got one too many wooden swords to the patella when fighting the kids. And I think a little more steel would really up the 'knight' look.
   
   Let me know if you have any other specific questions, happy to answer!

I haven't tried it on mine, but I've read that an Alcantara cleaner like the below works well:

Sonax (206141) Upholstery and Alcantara Cleaner - 8.45 fl. oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BBWJ16U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rVU1CbDKNY8RP

There's others, and if you read reviews you'll find people who've used it on their Alcantara Surfaces with success. The only reservation I would have is with later versions of Alcantara (ie. Surface Laptop) which supposedly have a different protective layer than the Alcantara Touch Cover, which I have.

Sure! Essentially I bought this lexol set and followed their instructions.

http://www.amazon.com/Lexol-907-Leather-Care-Kit/dp/B005H7DRQA/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1395626153&sr=1-4

I used several different rags and probably cleaned each boot with the cleaner for a minimum of 30 minutes each, probably more. Basically just scrubbing and scrubbing until little to no brown coloring would show up on the white rag when I scrubbed it.

After that, I let it dry for a few minutes and then applied the lexol leather conditioner, because the cleaner pretty much strips all of the good oils and stuff out of the leather (disclaimer, I really don't know all that much). I conditioned it again a couple of weeks later just to make sure it wasn't drying out if I hadn't conditioned it enough the first time. That's pretty much it!

Hey!

I also have a GTI as well and I use the Chemical Guys InnerClean and I really like it. It smells really good, it cleans and protects your interior(Dashboard, center council, doors etc). It also have a matte finish(OEM look) when you wipe it off, I think it's really ugly when the dashboard is all shiny like it does with armorall products.

For your plaid seats, it doesn't really matter if your seats are heated or not. My first suggestion would be to do steam cleaning if possible and if it's really dirty. If not, you can buy AMMONYC Shag Fabric cleaner. In this video, Larry(AMMONYC owner) shows multiple methods on how to clean cloth seats.

For your salt stains the solution is very cheap, again follow our leader Larry's video. After using the vinegar solution, I would let it dry for few days and then I would clean the seats after that with the product I mentioned above for your seats.

Spot this guide. I've learned that /u/a_robot_with_dreams is a god with GYW.

Interesting enough, only a few hours ago was I reading about shoe care today. So basically, unless you are trudging through the depths of hell, stick with just leather conditioner. That can be [Venetian shoe cream] (http://www.foresupplyco.com/productDetail.asp_Q_catID_E_48_A_subCatID_E_55_A_productID_E_703_A_strSession_E_11CDE680EB31BEC5B749AC768C51E5CDB07E9B03), Obernauf's leather oil cleaner, or whatever. You will not need all those waxes and such, as mixed in with Obernauf's Heavy Duty LP. Do your best to not use too much conditioner.

Seems like the steps are, when you do your monthly or biannual or whatever schedule conditioning you choose...:

1. Clean that shit up. Wet rag and also a horse brush to clean barnacles off the shoes. If you get a really bad stain or some shitty residue, use leather cleaner.
   
   
2. Allow to dry.
   
   
3. Use a rag or cloth and apply a small amount of conditioner everywhere (not soles obviously...). Do your best not to use too much. Pea shape? IDK, spot another guide. So like at most pea shape.
   
   
4. Dry.
   
   
5. GGEZ
   
   5a. Optional: Polish or wax if you're a clean mofo or likes to get down and dirty like mentioned above. Re: Polishing (and wax?)...seems like it's mostly on dress shoes and formal footwear. Since we're talking about boots, skip
   
   Repeat every blue moon or something.

I'm new to the Mazda club as well ('16 CX-5 GT), and I've read on other forums that 303 is very popular for cleaning and protecting vinyl and leather on car interiors.

I just bought some, and plan to test it on the wife's car first to make sure everything checks out :) I'll be interested to hear what others recommend.

Hey, guys! A girl I went to high school with's boyfriend had her take him to get his 2 German Shepards from the vet. This horror was the result.....
In all honestly, it wasn't that annoying to clean at all. [This guy] (https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-ACC_S06-Professional-Removal/dp/B0042B4B3U) was my go-to for this entire detail. It actually made it so easy, even when I wasn't dealing with hair. It's great for getting to dirt that your vacuum head can't get to. You can just "sweep" everything underneath the seats into a more accessible location and it's cake.

Quick process for those of you that wanna know (it's pretty much new, so I didn't have to be aggressive with anything):

1. Steam door panel/seat and wipe dry with mf towel, hit areas that weren't clean with 10:1 APC and a Solo Horton brush.
   
   
2. Blew out tight areas with compressed air (this is a great technique)
   
   
3. Spot cleaned carpet with APC and steamer
   
   
4. Cleaned mats by spraying 4:1 APC, scrubbing with carpet brush, then extracting with my Bissel Little Green.
   
   
5. Glass cleaned with Stoner's Invisible glass
   
   
6. Everything was protected with Aerospace 303
   
   

Disclaimer -- I have never done this with bumper plates.

I have used a product called vinyl dye. It comes in a spray can, just like spray paint. I used it a million years ago on plastic when I was building custom PC's. Easy to use, no sanding or prep needed, just have to make sure the surface is super clean. It sprays on thinner and more watery than spray paint, so you have to use thin coats.

Not sure if this is the one I used, but something similar to this https://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP942-Vinyl-Black-Satin/dp/B000CPIN9S?th=1&psc=1

Again, I've never tried to do this with bumper plates. But if you want to be the guinnea pig, I would love to hear how it goes!

Looks like you can clean it. Copper should be pretty easy. Plenty of info on that. Acrylic can be a biatch though. I use Meguiar's PlasticX and a microfiber cloth (and in your case a toothbrush). Just be sure to rinse it really well with DW. The question really is "is at block worth the time to clean?" as it will take quite a bit of elbow grease.

1. I use Meguiar's Gold Class 3 in 1 Leather Cleaner + Conditioner + Protectant. I got it at Walmart. Couldn't find link for Amazon, but this is what I used before, just doesn't have the protectant in it.
   
   
2. I use Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer. Since you don't want that "greasy" look and feel make sure you don't get the Meguiar's Ultimate Interior Detailer - I bought that once and I still have it, just not good, smells kind of funky too. After you use Quik Interior Detailer, just like lanmansa said, put some 303 Aerospace on it to protect the vinyl, plastic, etc. It has a matte finish, no greasy look or feel.
   
   
3. Brushes - I bought this make up brush at icing, it's called "Expert Brush". I might get shot down for this, but it works good. I don't really use it unless I have to.
   
   
4. I bought these. They're pack of 50 for $20. I only use them for interior or engine bay. However, DO NOT use them on your paint.
   
   
5. I don't have a steam machine, but lanmansa posted a good link referring Larry.
   
   Hope this helps :)
   
   Edit: If some things are really tough to remove, use diluted isopropyl alcohol down to 10-20%. Should be able to get rid of anything you encounter that isn't getting cleaned or removed.
   
   Edit2: Fixed brackets for links.

I see that you've already solved your problem, but for the future, rubber brushes like these are super helpful for getting cat hair off of fabric.

Not leather specific, but I use this on everything interior with great results and a wonderful smell!

https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-SPI_663_16-InnerClean-Protectant/dp/B008LPEZ6Q

I used Lexol for my brand new glove last year and then, play catch a lot. I saw a video on YouTube about it and give it a chance.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005H7DRQA/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687662&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000637TNM&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=00WTQ71RB2S53X1ZGBDE

This product is great, you can even use it regularly to clean the glove.

I highly recommend it.

First, you should check /r/autodetailing

There's lots of options and everyone will have their favorites based on experience. One thing's for sure though, stop wiping down with ONLY water as that is probably making things worse other than getting some dirt and grime off. It makes the leather dry and prone to even more cracks. You need some sort of leather-specific PH-balanced cleaner and a conditioner to follow it.

My favorite value option that's easily sourced from your local Advance Auto/AutoZone is Lexol. Amazon has a kit that's pretty cheap for you to see if you like the results:
http://www.amazon.com/Lexol-907-Leather-Care-Kit/dp/B005H7DRQA

Gliptone is also another well-liked value option:
http://www.amazon.com/Gliptone-Leather-Care-Combination-Kit/dp/B003VV423G

There are other higher end brands like Leatherique and Leather Master, but the results just didn't feel it was worth the price difference.

As for the dashboard, avoid junk like Armor All. Go with something like Einszett Cockpit Premium: http://www.amazon.com/einszett-Cockpit-Premium-16-9-fl/dp/B0002Z2MZ4

Basic mineral oil or beeswax or a combo.

You can gently melt down some beeswax IN mineral oil and then rub it all in, let it dry, and then wipe off excess.

Even simpler is to get some Howard's Butcher Block Conditioner at Lowes or Home Depot. It is just beeswax and mineral oil pre-mixed. It works best if gently heated or if you apply it to your handle and then use a hair dryer to gently heat the handle. That way the wax and oil get deep down in the leather.

You could also use Obenauf's to condition and protect.

Hello fellow Camaro, I like einszett products for my interior. link 1 link 2

I drive my car year round and these products work really well. The deep cleaner is of course the stronger of the two, but I've had good luck with it on my door sill plastic and my weathertech floor mats.

I have also heard good things about Griot's Garage and Lexol for leather products.

Lexol has a combo kit that is pretty good for interiors. I know a buddy that uses it.

Which of the CG leather care products do you use? Sometimes they have so many similar products that it can be hard to find the right one.

In general for leather seats, after you get the mold remediated and the seats dry, I'd use a good quality leather cleaner and then a leather conditioner. This stuff from Chemical Guys is pretty good and it is leather scented if you want to boost the leather smell too.

I used a 5,000 grit sandpaper from the auto parts and headlamp polishing. You need to be patient and do a few applications. I feel like I am not done but it sure looks a lot better than when I picked it up :)

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G12310-PlastX-Plastic-Cleaner/dp/B0000AY3SR

Not a prob. I think they're all pretty much the same formula but this is the popular one. Great stuff

Most new tents do come with a waterproof coating. But over the years they can lose the coating, allowing the water to "wet" through the material. There are various ways you can reapply a coating, but Camp Dry is generally the cheapest and easiest... but from reports I've seen Atsko Silicone Guard works much better and I'll give that a try once my current can of Camp Dry runs out.

For shoes... it depends on the material. Camp Dry is silicone based and uses petroleum product as a thinner; it's OK for materials like tents, but it's not great for natural materials like leather, nubuck or suede. For good leather boots, I use Obenauf's Leather Protector. For nubuck or suede, they have water-based sprays, Nikwax has one and Uggs has their own which is what my wife uses on hers. Have to be careful with leather and suede since products can damage them and/or cause discoloration.

I use Camp Dry on tents, tarps and umbrellas, but don't bother with backpacks or any other camping gear.

I was a wildland firefighter for a few seasons, and we had to use full leather boots (any flammable/metal materials were too much of a liability when running through fire) and to take care of my stupidly expensive boots i used Obenauf's LP and it worked wonders. Made from beeswax and absorbed quite quickly it kept my leathers supple and durable. I still keep a tin of it around to massage into wear areas on my leather jackets and riding pants. Knees and elbows love this shit.

In regards to general care I wish I had more advice for you but this stuff makes leather happy, that I do know.

Well these don't take to snow/rain too well. I recommend to get some obenauf's LP to somewhat waterproof it. It won't make it a rain boot but it will make it water resistant.

Clean off salt stains on the thing and you should be fine for light snow and small amounts of rain. Of course, let it dry if you were soaking in some rain/snow. Applying the obenauf's also darkens the leather to make it look more like a darker version beeswax on the desert boot (which is the crepe sole with a slightly darker leather , see here for comparison).

The leather will lighten up over time after applying obenauf and I actually have pictures here of only the after shots with about 3 months of wear after obenaufs LP (I also applied obenauf's oil though so it is actually darker than it should be).

I left mine at airport security check and the airport had to mail it to my house. The person put tape on alacantra keyboard backside, and wrote my name on the tape in pen. The pen marked past the tape and resulted in an inch long pen stain on the alacantra keyboard that I use on my surface pro 3. I successfully removed the blue ink line with the product link below. Just follow instructions. I highly recommend using the brush that is recommended under the "frequently bought together".
I will add that I used a high power stand fan to dry the alacantra area after I have finished cleaning it with the brush.



Sonax (206141) Upholstery and Alcantara Cleaner - 8.45 fl. oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BBWJ16U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_i67-Ab6P2VNY1

These boots are seriously worth every penny you spent.

White's boots or Nicks boots are the industry standard for forestry workers and wildland firefighters. I would guess that 75% or more of the field going employees and firefighters and the US Forest Service have at least one pair of White's or Nicks.

It looks like you take good care of the leather, but for people who do not have boots or may be looking into getting a pair, make sure you are using Obenauf's Leather Oil . These boots could last another 10 if you rebuild them a few more times and continue to care for the leather.

Meguiars PlastX works like a charm. It's easier than toothpaste or any of these 5 step sandpaper-polishing compound kits, you just wipe it on, wipe it off and your headlights look great.

There are lots of ways to clean the boots, using saddle soap is probably your best bet. Obenauf's is your best bet for protecting them.

Step one, fully disassemble. Take out everything you don't want painted (keys, electronics, mouse sensor, etc).

Step two, clean with alcohol and let dry, to get off any oil/grease from your skin. Don't touch with bare skin again, use a paper towel or wear gloves.

Step three, don't paint it, dye it. Get vinyl dye, it's available at almost any hardware store or automotive store (or, Amazon, which I linked). Paint goes on the surface and can chip/wear/scratch off, dye soaks into the plastic and won't rub off. This matters a lot for things like a mouse that you'll be touching all day. It's still going to be a spray can and applied like paint, it's just going to last a whole lot longer.

Step four, follow the directions for dying. Usually, that means 3-5 thin layers of dye. Dye the entire piece, not just the part you want to color, in order to have a consistent finish.

Step five, re-assemble and enjoy.

I just use a wet wash cloth. I don't really like shiny seats. Whatever you do, do not use any foaming cleaners or glass cleaner, it ruins leather.

Edit: Chemical Guys VRP is good stuff as well, or you can use their leather cleaner and conditioner. It doesn't usually leave an oily slippery surface.

Chemical Guys Leather Cleaner and Conditioner Complete Leather Care Kit (16 oz) (2 Items) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TJ3HUG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0nbwDbFHCQCMQ

Chemical Guys TVD_107_16 V.R.P. Vinyl, Rubber and Plastic Non-Greasy Dry-to-the-Touch Long Lasting Super Shine Dressing for Tires, Trim and More (16 oz) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FJIT9BO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LobwDbE8K7AHH

Leather honey is pretty great stuff. I also like lexol leather cleaner if it's really dirty.

In any case, you should clean it and then lubricate it soon afterwards.

That looks like an older coach bag. If it is, that'll last a lifetime, or longer--I inherited a couple of my grandma's vintage coach bags from the 70s when she passed.

Temporary fixes are fairly simple.

Just about any rubbing compound will knock off the layer of oxidation.

For example, wheel-polish. For a very good fix, either buy a full headlight restore kit. Or put together your own.

I've had very good luck with Meguiars's PlastX followed by Klasse Sealant Glaze

Leather just takes a bit of work (and extra maintenance), to be honest. The best brief leather harness guidelines I've found: "Leather can be cleaned with soap and water, with leather cleaner or saddle soap. Allow to air dry for at least 24 hours. Use leather conditioner to keep the leather soft and supple. Never soak leather."

You might check out a leather-specific cleaner plus conditioner pack. Works best with a microfiber cloth. The conditioner is only necessary occasionally.

Chemical guys interior cleaner. It’s yellow and smells like bananas/ pina colada and it gets all the dust and grime right off, doesn’t leave a slick film like armorall does

Chemical Guys SPI_663_16 InnerClean Interior Quick Detailer and Protectant (16 oz) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008LPEZ6Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gpHUBb09ET6CM


Their stain remover is also amazing too. Really anything they make is super high quality

I just bought my very first pair of Timberland Original Yellow boots. I want to protect them while keeping the same soft and matte texture/look of the boots. My plan is to put mink oil or Obenauf's Heavy Duty Beeswax on the boots and brush them with a soft brush to make it soft and matte.

The guy in this video used mink oil and brushed them off using a soft brush to restore the original look and feel of the boots.

I know mink oil and beeswax will darken the leather. I don't mind that at all. How to protect my first pair of Timberland?

A good place to start is with some conditioner. Every 2 or 3 months or so it is good to condition your boots, lexol works well: http://www.amazon.com/Lexol-907-Leather-Care-Kit/dp/B005H7DRQA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422498360&sr=8-1&keywords=lexol+leather
Visit /r/goodyearwelt for more care info

i use rain-x wipers but my real secret is this stuff

http://www.amazon.com/einszett-914806-Gummi-Pflege-Rubber/dp/B004B8GTQG


it reinvigorates all rubber, from window and door seals, to wiper blades. It's awesome!

I’ve used a couple (from Lexol to Turtle Wax), but right now I really like this one! It also helps with developing a faux patina if you don’t like how light the vachetta appears at first.

I've posted my list before:

Car Wash Shampoo: Chemical Guys Maxi Suds II Amazon link

Quick Detailer: Chemical Guys High Gloss Spray Sealant & Quick Detailer Amazon Link

Wax/Sealant (every 6 months): Blackfire Pro Paint Protection (previously Blackfire Wet Diamond All Paint Protection) Amazon Link

Clay Bar (every 12 months): Simoniz S57 Perfect Finish Detailing Clay Amazon Link

Clear Plastics (head/tail lights): Plexus Plastic Cleaner & Protectant Amazon Link

Plastic/Vinyl/Rubber/Leather: 303 Aerospace Protectant Amazon Link

Door/Trunk/Frunk Seals: 303 (above) or Nextzett Gummi Pflege Rubber Conditioner Amazon Link

Glass: Stoner Invisible Glass Amazon Link


Wheels: Griot's Garage Wheel Cleaner Amazon Link

Tires: Aero Low Shine Rubber Care Amazon Link

Paper is a fabric too, why not compare it?

> good luck getting it fully out without damaging your device.

This is where you're wrong, an alcantara cleaner can easily clean stains/dirt (read the reviews, people even mention cleaning their SP4 alcantara keyboards effectively which isn't coated like the surface laptop).

okay so like the comment below 303 is simple and easy. I don"t use it much as its not readily available here in Toronto.

Things i do use:

For the dash board and any plastic inside the car i use:

https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05324-Protectant-24-oz/dp/B0007RDVGG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487704916&sr=8-1&keywords=mothers+interior

OR

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G13616-Interior-Detailer-Cleaner/dp/B000AMLWH8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487705281&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars%2Binterior%2Bcleaner&th=1

For the carpets i do 2 thing when i am in a hurry ill use:

https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-50572-Rubber-Cleaner/dp/B00PKE6NNY/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1487704985&sr=8-12&keywords=turtle+wax+interior+cleaner

Just spray some on the carpet and after a quick vacuum then do a good vacuum job this can take like 30 mins once you get the hang of it.

when i have time i use:

https://www.amazon.com/BISSELL-1400B-Multi-Purpose-Portable-Cleaner/dp/B0016HF5GK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487705069&sr=8-2&keywords=bissell+little+green

The second method is simple just follow the instructions it came with and this item usually goes on sale there are better ones that keep the water heated.

They also both give the car a nice smell after cleaning i don't have leather seats so i can say much about it.

as for windows there 2 steps i do as well:

I use

https://www.amazon.com/Invisible-Glass-Premium-Cleaner-91164/dp/B0007OWD2M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487705440&sr=8-2&keywords=invisible+glass

Then polish the exterior and where is no tint with

https://www.amazon.com/3M-800002242-RAIN-X-WINDSHIELD-TREATMENT-3-5/dp/B000WNED08/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1487705503&sr=8-13&keywords=rain+x+glass+cleaner

The second step is a bit tedious so if you are not comfortable stick with step 1.

The thing that also really good to have is good clothes for cleaning the more the better Micro fibre cloth's are the best.

https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Professional-Microfiber-POLISHING/dp/B0166U4PVC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487705636&sr=8-1&keywords=micro+fiber+rag+company

and for glass:

https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Microfiber-Professional-STREAK-FREE/dp/B00WC5KQGE/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1487705755&sr=8-5&keywords=rag+company+glass

After wiping the class with step one and then its dry i usually just follow up with a dry microfiber cloth to pick up any little dirt i left behind.

If i left anything behind let me know ill make a full post once summer comes around with maybe a video of sorts but there is alot of information also to r/autodetailing wiki post and sorry for the format if its not up to standards this is my first long post.

Great job! Hope you used something other than Armor All otherwise he’s going to have a nice haze on the inside of his windshield.

Aerospace 303 is a really great product that is similar to armor all but doesn’t leave the super greasy feel or oily haze.

303 (30313-CSR) UV Protectant Spray for Vinyl, Plastic, Rubber, Fiberglass, Leather & More – Dust and Dirt Repellant - Non-Toxic, Matte Finish, 32 Fl. oz.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KN0UOEE

Was this what you used?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002X520S?pc_redir=1404739595&robot_redir=1

I really love the way they turned out in your photos and I think I want to get them and apply the same wax. Great review btw.

This is an awesome boot/leather shoe care kit. Good price and has everything you need.

Ammo is a boutique brand. His products are very well made and do the job just fine, but can be a bit pricey. I save them for my personal vehicle.

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10916-Leather-Cleaner-Conditioner/dp/B0002V9IFU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413976074&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+leather+cleaner

This is what I use on leather surfaces have had no issues with it. Smells great, cleans well, and leaves behind no greasy feel. The leather feels very smooth afterwards.

Me too!!!! It's so annoying. It doesn't take it all out, but I have good luck with this product.

Thanks for the video! It was very helpful. He kept referencing an "interior cleaner." What brand of cleaner do you recommend? Lexol 907?

I just got a pair of Johnston & Murphy dark brown oxfords and they are made out of sheepskin leather. Can I use my usual boot leather conditioner/protector (listed here) on these, combined with a damp rag wipe when necessary?

I was reading around and the only info I could find was on this site stating "To protect your sheepskin from cracking or drying out, a leather conditioner specifically for sheepskin is essential." Is this true? I would rather not have to go back to the store and buy their shoe cream if I don't have to. Or if anyone knows of an alternative on Amazon that would be cool.

Thanks!!!

Get some Plexus to keep the plastic protected and supple, and some more abrasive cleaner to clear it up every now and then (Jeep should sell something appropriate).

Source: My 2002 Boxster had a plastic window in it, and I used a combination of the Porsche cleaner to keep it clear (used sparingly) and Plexus to keep it supple (used religiously).

Some Lexol leather conditioner will do wonders for the general dryness. Nothing lasts forever, but keep high-quality leather properly conditioned (for skates, I'd say condition every 3-6 months or so) and it'll last a long long time.

Any cobbler should be able to fix little things like a broken strap. I live in a northern city so it's easy to find shops that specialize in hockey boots, but anyone who works on boots regularly would be a good choice. You could also contact the manufacturer (if they still are in business) to see if they offer a recrafting service - they usually love to see their well-worn boots come in for a little TLC.

Definitely check out /r/AutoDetailing. I use nextzett on my interior. Way better than Armorall, no greasy feel or shine and seems to keep the dust away. Wow, I sound like a shill...

r/autodetailing will have more information on specifics here.

What I would try is to let it dry completely, then go pick up some of this Lexol cleaner, and then some of their conditioner and use both to get it cleaned up and conditioned. This gets my seats like new pretty consistently and makes the inside of your car smell fantastic.

Wow, wonderful find. Seriously envious. Honestly, I would not worry about the damage much, its hardly noticeable. If they were my boots, I'd clean them with warm water, let dry, and condition/protect with Obenauf's. In fact, this is what I do with my boots in northern Vermont.

Griot's Garage would be my go to general interior cleaner. Virtually no odor, no residue and cleans phenomenally.

Chemical Guys make a decent product as well. I wouldn't say it's an as effective cleaner as Griot's but does offer UV protection. CG's cleaner does have a fruity smell (fades after a few hours) and is colored as well.

Haven't had to use it in the BRZ (thankfully) but in past cars and friends, for the suuuuper filthy or large stains, Tuff Stuff's Foam Cleaner is a go to.

Other than that, compressed air for the nooks and crannies.

So excited to be joining the Tesla family today (delivery in Costa Mesa this afternoon!)

I’m getting a TM3 with black interior. Does anyone know if those seats are also vegan leather, or are they real leather? Any idea if this is safe to clean the seats?

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002V9IFU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Are armorall wipes safe for the dashboard?

FWIW, I'm planning on using Lexol as well. I too recently got the 8119's and after reading hours of guides and opinions on leather conditioning, it seems that Lexol is the best for what I want, which sounds like what you want too - moisturize the leather without fucking up the color too much.

Amazon's got a good kit for $12 Prime.

I don't have Lexol at the moment but will buy some since it's not too expensive. I also have this product which I use to clean and condition my car's leather seats. You think it would do any harm? I currently have coconut oil at my disposal as well, I might apply a really thin layer to test it out.

I actually don't mind the darkened color since I do like the color of Amber Harness too. However, I went with copper because it looks better to me and If i want it dark I can always oil it to achieve a darker shade (based on what I've read). Since it will fade over time, I don't have any issues with the coloring :).

Ooph, good purchase! Hopefully you were able to try some on before ordering. I had to buy about a full size down from my usual shoe size. And in case you missed my other comment/haven't considered what/how to care for them here's this copy/pasta: At the suggestion of multiple reddit users, I use this cleaner/conditioner and this brush, which have worked well enough for me.

SQ: Is there anything I else I should be doing to care for my 1ks?

Sorry the pictures might not be the best to judge. Got these as 2nds from STP a while back.

Shortly after purchase, had a local cobbler add half soles.. for some reason he dressed the edges using black polish or something, which eventually wore away.

I'm wondering if he also tried to buff and polish the uppers or something, because I feel like the wear around the toe showed up shortly thereafter and I don't really beat things things up as much as they look like I do.

Half soles started coming off not too long after, definitely not using that cobbler again, haha. Not too worried about the soles though, at some point I'll probably hit up B.Nelson or something for a proper fix.

I'm much more worried about the uppers, so far I've given them the occasional cleaning and conditioning with this basic lexol kit which I mainly got for my Beckmans (which are holding up much better, haha). Should I grab VSC or Pure Neatsfoot or something instead?

I'm thinking I might like something to darken the leather, right now they're a little chalky looking.

Any advice? I've been doing a lot of lurking and searching over the past year but I still feel pretty clueless.

> I kind of agree but honestly ours is looking pretty faded considering it's only been a year.

We have a black plastic mailbox (something purchased off-the-shelf from Home Depot). I've discovered that regular applications of 303 Aerospace Protectant work wonders to keep my mailbox from fading from the sun.

Hi, beginner here. The dash on my '08 Sonata is looking a bit sad and faded (pic here, ignore shadows and camera artifacts), and I was hoping to clean and restore it.

Would a combination of Megs Quick Interior Detailer (which I already have), plus 303 Aerospace work well? I also have Simple Green if that's better, but not sure what dilution ratio would work well. Thanks!

I use Meguiars Quik Interior Detailer and it does an amazing job. Plus you can buy it at Walmart, at least around me.

Edit: I always follow up with Meguiars Natural Shine on the plastic. I find it helps it not look so shitty. I hate that plastidip finish they used for the plastic.

If its leather then any sort of leather conditioner should age it nicely. One of the best ones to use is Obenauf's Leather Preserve. It darkens up the leather and seals it real well.

Obenauf's Leather Preserver. I've used it for a while now on all my leather boots. It will darken but damn does it work well. Beeswax for waterproofing and oils to hydrate and protect the leather. Great stuff.

gone are the days of payless.

If you're walking that much, on a budget, I'd enjoy seeing how much wear and tear you'd put on a some Chippewa Boots or Chippewa Apache The vibram sole lugged or sans lugged should do wonders in regards to comfort and durability.

with the 20% off $100+ Amazon Coupon and it's a solid frugal purchase. Code SPSHOEI4 at checkout may work as well for 20% off.

Throw some sno-seal or Obenauf's and you're set for most all terrains.

I clean my shield with plexus I just use a small towel to wipe it off, works great!

When I park on any kind of hill I usually leave my bike in gear, perpendicular with the curb. With your kickstand down and it in gear it should be ok, just let it roll for a second so it stops.

Meguiars is cheap and very effective. Smells great, too!

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10916-Leather-Cleaner-Conditioner/dp/B0002V9IFU

• I love clean things and I want to pickup the CX-5 branded all weather floor mats and cargo tray. Is there a better option?
  
  I have the Weather Tech mats and they're awesome.
  
  
  
• When cleaning the inside I planned to only use a microfiber cloth and/or a slightly damp with warm water microfiber. Is there a better way?
  
  I keep a microfiber towel in the glove box for quick wipe downs, but every few weeks or so, I'll use Meguiar's to clean the interior.
  
  
  
• Are there any accessories I might not know about that are must haves?
  
  I have a jump starter just in case anything went wrong! Beyond that, hmm... I'm not entirely sure. I have done some light modding to my CX-5, but nothing that are like, "OH MAN, GET THIS!"

I've been testing out 303 Aerospace Protectant. I've heard good things and so far it seems to be working great.

Might be worth checking out /r/AutoDetailing .

Get yourself some Lexol leather cleaner and condition. Link

This stuff is absolute magic and used for car interiors, shoes, bags, or anything leather. I use it on my Plycraft replica (real leather) as well as my Red Wing shoes. A lot of the leather cleaners/conditioners or Internet Knowledge is extremely overboard for leather care. The users at /r/goodyearwelt and /r/malefashionadvice swear by this stuff for leather care.

You will not harm or discolor the leather on the chair at all. There's some kind of magic sauce in it. From the Amazon link

• Lexol pH-balanced Cleaner is purely a cleaner. NO silicones, alcohols, waxes, oil, or additives to interfere with its cleaning action or to cause dirt to be trapped in the leather.
  
  
• Lexol Conditioner leaves no greasy residue and it contains no harmful silicon ingredients which dry out leather over time. Lexol Conditioner results in supple, strong, and beautiful leather.

This Lexol pack look any good? Or should I just stick to the conditioner? What is "leather cleaner"? Just like a more mild saddle soap or like Saphir Renomat?

I like the AMMO Plum wheel cleaner. Also a set of wheel woolies.

I really like this stuff in the interior. And a set of these brushes for detailing in and out. Stock up on microfiber.

Also, AMMO makes a spray called hydrate that is used when drying the car. I like the stuff.

My 6 has so much creek. So what I did was...

1/4th inch drip tube in the inner seal atop my doors

That worked for a bit but the squeaky noises returned.

Next I used Gummi Pflege on the inside of every single seal within the door. So what I mean is. On the ones that attach to the body, but more importantly I spread open every one on the door and put a generous coating

Lastly,

I put Sailkote all over a rag, I mean soaked it, then rubbed it all over the felt side of the upper door seal that touches the body.

This can be purchased for a lot less with some hunting. I paid 12.99 at a local marina store

Pretty much the same as regular cloth. Alcantara requires special cleaning products though and to be a little more gentle when rubbing the product in. I feel that stains stick to alcantara more compared to regular cloth, so you will have to repeat product applciation a few times, which can be time consuming. Product

Obenaufs is what I use on both pair of my leather boots (Red Wing Iron Rangers and my upland field boots [that see way more beating]). Does a great job for both. I put it on the Iron Rangers right when I got them and apply it semi-regularly.

edit: This stuff. No experience with the Dr. Marten branded stuff, but Obenaufs has been great.

Yeah, you'll be fine. It looks like the suede cleaner just stripped all the natural oils out of the leather. Get this or this.

Yeah, you probably need a good cleaning with saddle soap. You can get it on Amazon.

Then get a good polishing in with obenauf.


http://www.amazon.com/Obenaufs-Leather-Oil-16oz-Restores/dp/B003EAW57E

The most you will probably hear here is don't use Armor All cleaners for the surfaces (do more harm than good and leave a bright sheen) and visit /r/autodetailing.

These are just items I have used personally and would recommend:
Best interior cleaner I have found is Meguiar's Interior Cleaner with some microfiber towels.

Haven't had to deal with anything for anti-fogging, but for windows I use Stoner's Invisible Glass. It's a little too good in my opinion, now I have to figure out how to fix 6 little nicks in my windshield I wouldn't have noticed otherwise...

I recommend the Red Wing Beckman. Good semi-lugged sole that works indoors and out, and can definitely handle the elements once you add some Obenauf's. Also, email Revolve once that this is your first order with them and they'll give you 30% off, which gives these a damn good price/quality ratio.

This stuff works better than snoseal. It's breathable, body heat melts it into the gloves, smells good, and darkens the leather a few shades. Highly recommend it for kincos.

I have had zero repairs on the top and the only maintenance I've done is to put some Gummi Pflege on the seals every 6 months ( https://www.amazon.com/nextzett-91480615-Gummi-Pflege-Rubber/dp/B004B8GTQG/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1IXM3TJ577A2&keywords=gummi+pflege+rubber+protection&qid=1563411869&s=gateway&sprefix=gummi+pf%2Caps%2C191&sr=8-1 ). The top works great and has never given me a problem. I live in Arizona and put it down A LOT.

Call me crazy, but I really like Chemical Guys Inner Clean and I use it whenever I detail a car. It gives off a matte, factory finish. Do not order from their site, order on Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-SPI_663_16-InnerClean-Protectant/dp/B008LPEZ6Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409425318&sr=8-1&keywords=Inner+Clean

Also one more thing. Buy this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004B8GTQG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is what they use on the rubber trim on the hardtop convertible tops on bmws. Put it all around the rubber seal on the T tops. It refreshes the rubber and prevents leaks. This shit works like a charm. brought my rubber seals back to life.

I use a leather conditioner and some sort of light waterproofing. Kiwi Leather Lotion is pretty basic and cheap and is a nice entry-level leather conditioner. As for waterproofing, you can use a silicone waterproofing spray, or something like Obenauf's or Sno-Seal, or for very light protection, you can use a wax polish.

There are dozens of sprays you can buy actually designed for protecting fabrics and vinyls from the sun. 303 Spray comes to mind. I've used it on convertible tops for many years with great results.

Nice ride. I myself have a 2015 Mazda 3 GT. I use Lexol for cleaning and conditiong (protecting) leather. Just use some TRC microfiber towels to clean the leather and the rest of the interior. For the dash, I just use Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer and D101 APC. It doesn't leave a shiny residue on the dash. I use those two for almost everything on the interior.

I absolutely love inner clear from CHEMICAL Guys..

Chemical Guys SPI_663_16 InnerClean Interior Quick Detailer and Protectant (16 oz) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008LPEZ6Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JDcDCbYWZEGWV

Just got the Red Wing Iron Ranger 8083 the other day. Would something like this work for leather care? What kind of brush should I get? What else do I need to know?

Thanks!

303 makes a great product for both.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KN0UOEE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fkNIDbFJ17NC1

I use Adam's and chemical guys stuff for most everything else. There's better stuff out there, but I find these to be easy to use and get ahold of.

I would want No More Trouble Zones because I love Jillian's workouts and I use them to keep the "trouble zones" managed. plus, my sister is being a meanie and taking her copy of it to college with her this fall...brat lol
I would really enjoy either this or this!
Thanks for the contest!
Edit: Twinsies

I'm a fan of Obenauf's Leather Oil, doesn't wax the pores like the LP (too heavy for even most footwear, IMO) but will soak in nicely. Wipe down your jacket of excess, and leave to proof somewhere warm for a while.

1. I'd try this brush with some Nextzett Cockpit Premium
   
2. Like Beast said, Badgeskins sells a sticker to cover that.
   
3. For the steering wheel, I'd recommend Lexol. I also use that to clean my leather seats, followed by their leather conditioner every now and then.

If you want something simple and easy to use, try Meguiar's Leather Cleaner & Conditioner. Can be found on Amazon (which I linked), or at Target/Walmart.

No, it's not as dedicated or strong in cleaning or protection as other products, but because it's a simple spray + wipe cleaner, you can easily clean/condition the entire interior within minutes.

I use it on my White Parchment Leather in my Mazda3 weekly.

Maaaan I just got done ogling this car over at /r/Ford and now you gotta make me jelly over here...

Again, Dad just got one of these, too. We've been treating the leather with this stuff, and it's looking pretty sharp. Congrats again on the truck!!

More line than you think you need. Double the line. You can never have enough line.

Waterproof, powerful flashlight my recommendation

Plastic bag with a lanyard for valuables/wallets/phones/licenses. Alternatively, a pelican case.

A pair of vice grip pliers ("The wrong tool to get every job done right")

A knife, as others said. I work professionally on the water as well as boating recreationally. The Myerchin Rigging Knife is the best all purpose knife to have on board. It might be a little overkill, but when you need a line cut fifteen seconds ago, you'll be glad you have it.

A VHF handheld radio and a knowledge of what channels are monitored by the USCG (13, 16, 22A), Commercial traffic (13/16) and local police/fire departments

Spare fuses, bulbs, plugs

A Towboat US membership

A bigger, heavier anchor if you're anywhere with a decent amount of current (rivers, oceans). I'm very much a proponent of overkill when it comes to anchoring. I use an anchor way bigger than my 20' pontoon needs, and it's a tad pricey, but once I drop it and pay out the scope, I rarely worry about dragging.

Bag of cleaning supplies. Rags, paper towels, and the holy trinity of vinyl care: melamine pads, CLR Mold & Mildew, and 303 protectant

Most important item of all: A bleach bottle with the bottom cut off

If you have a cordless drill purchase the 3M lens cleaner: http://www.amazon.com/3M-39008-Headlight-Restoration-System/dp/B001AIZ5HY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1396048236&sr=8-2&keywords=3m+lens+cleaner

There are more than enough pads in there for 2 headlights. Take off your front bumper and put up your hood, this will make the task so much easier. Triple painters tape the paint around top and sides. Get a squirt bottle from Autozone, Homedepot, etc and fill it with water. Take your time, it should take around 45 minutes to do both.

Also do them at the same time, each step. Don't complete one and move to the other.

Afterwords protect and clean with: http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-PlastX-Plastic-Cleaner-Polish/dp/B0000AY3SR/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1396048450&sr=8-5&keywords=3m+lens+cleaner

Eu folosesc Kiwi 100% Horsehair Shine Brush.

Nu știu dacă e cea mai bună, dar asta folosesc eu și sunt mulțumit. A, da, și mă interesează foarte mult încălțămintea de calitate și am grijă de ea deci nu-s doar un noob care nu știe ce recomandă. Peria asta își face treaba și e ieftină.

Și dacă tot veni vorba, pentru bocanci recomand Fiebing's Yellow Saddle Soap și pentru bocanci negri recomand Obenauf's LP Boot Preservative și/sau Obenauf's Leather Oil.

Săpun doar pentru bocanci, nu pantofi, și Obenauf's stuff doar pentru piele neagră, o să schimbe culoarea altfel. Pentru pantofi sau bocanci la care nu vrei să se schimbe culoarea recomand refined coconut oil.

De evitat orice fel de cremă colorată. Aia e moartea pielii.

I asked a similar question a while back, and it seems you clean it with leather cleaner and then treat it with a leather conditioner. Leather is treated animal skin, so you want to use a 'lotion' of sorts to keep it supple after you clean it.

This is the best stuff out there for plastics.

Used it in the military for helicopter canopies. Started using it on my motorcycle visor and it worked GREAT. Should be useful here too.

I've had great luck removing cat hair with either of these items:

Pet Rock

Rubber Pet Hair Remover Brush

If you follow the brush or the rock with a vacuum it makes really quick work of pet hair.

Get a Kiwi leather care kit and some leather conditioner

• Brush off your shoes with the brush
  
  
• Use a damp sponge to wipe off any remaining dirt (if they are exceptionally dirty you can use saddle soap)
  
  
• Dry off with a rag
  
  
• Apply the leather conditioner, let dry/absorb and buff with the chimois
  
  
• Apply polish with the sponge applicator, let dry for like an hour
  
  
• Brush shoes again, then buff again with the chimois.
  
  Also it looks like your toes are starting to separate, in which case I'd use some Shoe Goo or just some super glue to readhere

Thanks again, I'll probably head down to a shoe store and try to match colors like you said.

One last question, is something like Bick 4 Leather conditioner better or worse than Lexol leather conditioner?

It's why I sold mine. I had to be too precious about it. Constantly cleaning and wiping it - and terrified of scratches.

That said, the Alcantara cleaner from Amazon is good stuff indeed and should help remove sweaty palm stains. https://www.amazon.com/Sonax-206141-Upholstery-Alcantara-Cleaner/dp/B00BBWJ16U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1536091047&sr=8-2&keywords=alcantara+cleaner

Would some like this be good to condition natural OSB trenches? I don't want anything to darken them up. I just want to prevent any water damage/ take care of the leather. Should I even bother conditioning them?

What spray cleaner do you guys use to clean the alcantara?

I was wondering if this $20 Sonax cleaner was worth it: https://www.amazon.com/Sonax-206141-Upholstery-Alcantara-Cleaner/dp/B00BBWJ16U/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494953995&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=alcnatara+cleaner

or can I get away with a $3 bottle of Tuff Stuff? https://www.amazon.com/Tuff-Stuff-Purpose-Cleaner-Cleaning/dp/B0009PCPNQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1494953867&sr=8-4&keywords=fabric+cleaner

edit: or can I even get away with just vacuuming and using a damp microfiber cloth?

Is it permanently fogged (plastic damaged) or is this just condensation a.k.a. does it get better with time? If it's the first one you might be able to remove the instrument cluster window and use plastic polish on both sides of the plastic. If it's condensation check to see if gaskets, o-rings, etc that create a seal are in good condition. That's where I'd start at least...

https://www.amazon.com/nextzett-91480615-Gummi-Pflege-Rubber/dp/B004B8GTQG

This stuff is great to keep your rubber nice and supple, and does add a little "blackness"

My team has a few hundred Surface Laptops that they support. I can attest that the link below works great. Spray it on, brush it in a bit (soft tooth brush, dry rough fingers that we are too manly to put lotion on, etc.), wait 20 minutes, wipe it off.

https://smile.amazon.com/Sonax-206141-Upholstery-Alcantara-Cleaner/dp/B00BBWJ16U?sa-no-redirect=1



Copy of my response from a previous post.

I got those boots from this image in one of the sidebar guides, where they are in the "cool, mostly dry" weather category.

I don't know exactly what that means, but it doesn't really sound like enough for what I'm hoping my next pair of shoes can endure -- I live in Michigan, and park outside during the winter. I don't need to be able to do shoveling in these or anything, but I do have to sometimes walk through foot-deep snow.

I suppose that this is what you guys are referring to? It looks good to me.

Lexol leather cleaner (orange bottle) is available at auto parts stores, walmart, amazon-Lexol Cleaner

Once its clean, it wouldn't hurt to have some conditioner around. There are many but lexol's a good product. Lexol Conditioner brown bottle.

I use Bick 1 cleaner and Bick 4 conditioner, nothing fancy; lexol would also work perfectly fine. I prefer the Woodlore 'Epic' trees.

I would recommend using Bickmore Bick 4 leather conditioner . Its the best stuff out there and doesn't darken leather.

Lexol makes some really good stuff. I like their cleaner and conditioner.

head over to /r/goodyearwelt for the skinny on shoecare regimen and products. I wouldn't use Kiwi stuff myself, but that's mostly for other reasons. Lexol is a great neutral conditioner (not that you'd need this much).

Not OP but I bought this for my Apaches based on recommendations here, works great:

https://www.amazon.com/Obenaufs-LP-Boot-Preservative-Preserves/dp/B003SKCARK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1509973628&sr=8-3&keywords=obenaufs%2Bheavy%2Bduty%2Blp&th=1

I just cleaned the interior of my new 6 with products/techniques from /r/autodetailing. Its a great sub.

For the dash/panels/screen, I brushed dust gently with a horsehair brush (I bought a new shoeshine brush). Spray a little 1z Cockpit Premium on a microfiber cloth and wiped down. Then I wiped again with a dry cloth. Nice clean matte finish, not the super slick & shiny Armor All look. I used Lexol leather cleaner on my leather seats, after brushing the dust off.

Here's the interior cleaner I used, but there are others. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002Z2MZ4?pc_redir=1395735928&robot_redir=1

They make rubber pet hair removal brushes specifically for this purpose. They can be had for around 6-10 dollars, and I can attest: will even remove husky hair from carpet. The stone is also good, the sponge not so much. I've never tried the baking soda method. That sounds like it's totally worth a shot. Everyone has baking soda around.

I use this one