I"m assuming that you will be going soon, say the next month or so, time of year counts, but I'll assume it's soon.

Your tent is a little "meh." it'll work but it might not last so long; especially take core of the poles, they beak easily. Also the cheapo tent stakes that come with the tent are going to bend and you will curse them every time you set up your tent. Pick up some like these and they will serve you well. (Personally I hate using tents; they are hassles to set up and take down, and generally not pleasant to sleep in. If you can help it try sleeping under the stars and see if that suits you.)

You might find your sleeping bag to be a bit chilly, I'd recommend a 20 degree bag with a hood. I know it won't get that cold but the degree ratings are quite exaggerated so 20 degrees is really more suitable for 50 degrees. If you don't want to spend more money on a bag, make sure you have warm clothes and a good fitting beanie.

Air mattresses are fine, just take care to feel out for thorns or anything that might puncture it. Also you might want a blanket or something in between you and the mattress because it will suck out the heat from underneath you if you don't have some insulation.

You should have a tarp or footprint to put your tent on to protect it and the air mattress from punctures, it's worth it. The tarp you have should be fine (maybe doubled over if its thin), but a footprint will be more convenient.

For $15 that stove is a great deal, buy it if it still works fine. It runs off of white gas AKA "camp fuel", which you can find at many grocery stores, gas stations, any place with a sporting goods section, and many stores near popular camping areas. Finding white gas is not really an issue.

Don't buy matches, just get 2 or 3 Bic lighters. Really you should learn to make a fire using only your lighter, make that your goal each night. In a pinch my favorite fire starter is one you can make at home before your trip. Get an old egg carton and stuff each cup with cotton balls or dryer lint. then pour melted candle wax into each cup until about 90% full. Let the carton harden then pack it away. To use it rip off one cup and light the cardboard edge, you will have a strong flame for about 15 minutes.

Don't buy a filter. Water will be easy to come by at most campsites, but not all of them have a tap so make sure to bring along a few extra gallons just in case.

Lanterns produce almost no usable light, save your money and stick with the headlamp. Also that headlamp is excellent I highly recommend it. Protip: leave it around your neck like a necklace when you sleep then it's easy to find in the middle of the night.

I have a lot of experience with wilderness medicine and those pre-made kits are mostly worthless, you are much better off making your own kit.

I Recommend:

• 2-3 Rolls Athletic Tape - This works for making bandages and splints, covering blisters, cuts, burns, ect.
  
• Small Bottle of Ibuprofen (Advil) - Pain reliever, and muscle relaxant that aids in the recovery and prevention of injuries
  
• 1-2 Ace bandages - Makes bandages, splints, and slings
  
• Duct Tape - General purpose item
  
• Roll Gauze - For major injuries with significant bleeding
  
• Individually Wrapped Antihistamine (Benadryl) Tablets - Optional if you don't have allergies
  
• Bic Lighter - Sterilizes metal instruments
  
• Mini Swiss Army Knife - Excellent scissors and tweezers for minor injuries, sterilize with a flame before each use
  
• Sunscreen - Don't want to get burned
  
• Triple Antibiotic (Neosporin) - Ward off infection of open wounds, do not apply directly to the cut but rather around like a defensive wall
  
• Alcohol Prep Pads - Cleans and sterilizes open wounds before dressing
  
• Add Any Prescription Meds / Regularly Taken Medicines - Inhaler, insulin, Epi-Pen, ect.
  
• Add Anything That Makes You Feel Better Knowing You Have It - eg snake bite kits, aspirin, SAM splint, burn gel
  
  Chair looks comfy, get one you like with at least 1 cupholder
  
  A good knife makes a great survival tool and is just generally a useful item, check here every few days for a good deal on high quality knives. Multi tools are great to have around camp but an inexpensive set of tools would be much better for your situation. If you want a true multi-tool this one is good quality and a fair price.
  
  

For (bigger) diagonal cutters/pliers, I think the most BIFL are NWS with their "Titan finish". Knipex is a fairly close second, but I like the finish on NWS better. Both can handle hard and medium hard wire (including nails and screws) without a problem, unlike most Klein, Snap-On, etc. The biggest issue is finding NWS in the US. The NWS Fantastico Plus are the best diagonal cutters I've ever laid my hands on.

For precision cutters/pliers, Xuron. They're semi-flush (Xuron call them flush, but I'd still call them semi-flush) micro sheer cutters are great but thankfully don't seem to nick up easily like (Xcelite, Snap-On, etc.) flush cutters do. I like the ones with that are ESD safe, with extra long handles, and the lead retainer best if you're going to be populating a lot of circuit boards. Otherwise, their cheaper models are just as nice.

Wiha precision screwdrivers. I've given this set as a gift before. Wera for the bigger stuff if you need it. Wiha or Wera bits (only larger sizes, I've never found precision bits I've particularly liked).

Klein to fill in gaps.

Bondhus hex keys.

Find a nice used Fluke multimeter on eBay. 89IV go for under $200 and have pretty much identical features to the 189 (believe the 189 mostly just has a bigger inductance/capacitance range). Most universities will have someone tasked with calibration/maintaining the measurement equipment. Make friends and he'll probably calibrate it for you/teach you how/just let you jump in and try. Mine was falling out of the box after UPS drop kicked it to my door, but the calibration was still super boring as nothing needed adjustment.

Hakko or Weller soldering station. Easy to find tips, especially for Weller. WESD51 dropped to $99 on Amazon a couple times in the last year, great time to scoop one up for little more than the analog version. The Stahl Tools one Amazon sells is also good for dirt cheap, but not really BIFL; good luck on finding tips. Metcal is too rich for my blood, but if you ever happen across one that is cheap.

Kester "44" solder, accept no substitute. 63/37 or 60/40, but since the spool will last you half a lifetime, I'd probably go with the 63/37.

I have a love/hate relationship with wire strippers. Something like this usually gets the job done, but sometimes you'll get wire with a strange jacket size and they'll fail. For the automatic kind, this style works ok (especially if you adjust it to what you're stripping), but I usually like this style better; again, as long as the jacket isn't too small and you wire is in the right range. Sadly, I probably most often grab for cheapies like this. The adjustment screw is great if you have to do a lot of a certain size, but I tend to free hand them. It takes quite a bit of practice, but once you get the hang of it, it's the fastest. Thermal wire strippers are just too pricey for the home user, especially if you want to do PVC, teflon, etc. jacketed wire.

I also have a love/hate relationship with crimpers. I have some crimpers I got for Anderson Powerpole connectors from West Mountain Radio (largely because I couldn't believe how cheap they are-- connector-specific crimpers are usually many times the price they charge) and they were great for the Powerpoles. I even bought some of the other die sets, but I've been less happy with those. I often end up using a similar pair to these or the die on a pair of Klein lineman's pliers for the larger crimps.

Congratulations!

• Personally I would recommend either a Remington 700 over the 783. There's nothing wrong with the 783, but the 700's fit, finish as well as the overall quality is just superior and I'm a firm believer in the "buy once, cry once" philosophy, especially with firearms. If you buy the 783, my bet is that as you get a little more serious about shooting, you'll end up buying a 700.
  
  
• With all that said, if you're not hell bent on buying a Remington, I personally would go with a Tikka T3 (there are many, many models). Overall it's about the same as a Remington 700 in terms of quality, but the bolt action is just silky smooth and the trigger pull is wonderful. I'm biased because I'm a bit of a Tikka fan, so take my advice with a grain of salt.
  
  
• In regards to the .308 calibre, again I'm a bit biased because my rifle is in .308 but regardless, I think .308 is the way to go. It's easily found, and comes in a variety of weight from (approximately) 120gr to 200gr so you have a choice of choosing a lighter bullet for smaller game or a heavier bullet for larger game.
  
  
• To pass the time while your PAL/RPAL is being processed, I strongly suggest buying high quality safety equipment You don't have to break the bank, but don't skimp. Apart from that I'd say buy a good soft case, and later down the road you can buy a hard case (my personal favourite is the Pelican 1750). Here's a little list....
  
  
• Ear protection: Howard Leight Impact Sport and Howard Leight earplugs (Personally I use both-- you only get one pair of ears!)
  
  
• Eye protection: Smith Aegis Arc (DS Tactical is a great company to deal with)
  
  
• Hard case: Pelican 1750 (Production Case is a nice Canadian company with prices way better than anywhere else and great customer service)
  
  
• Bipod: Harris Engineering (widely considered the best bang for your buck product-- I use the 9-13 inch because I'm a bit taller, but most people like the 6-9)
  
  
• Soft case: Cabela's drag bag-- great product at a great price.
  
  
  
• Torque wrench: VERY important in my opinion, as I see way too many people over-torquing their gear (i.e. scope mount screws) and messing things up. Wheeler Torque Wrench-- this is what I use. It's reasonably priced and I use it all the time when I'm working on my rifle. I know plenty of people say they're not necessary, but they'll save you from major headaches in the future.
  
  
• Bonus: When you buy your scope, DO THIS to level it. I've tried all kinds of methods, but this by far the best (assuming your rifle is levelled first). It's so simple, but so effective.
  
  
  Anyway, I hope this helps. I'll check back in a little bit (studying for finals right now) if I think of anything else.
  

> Thanks in advance for answering my questions.

• How long have you had your Flashforge, and how much have you printed on it?
  
  I purchased it last August. (781 hours logged) It's almost litterly been printing out of the box since day one. The only issue I had out of the box is that the one screw on the build plate got bent as a result of the 2 free spools bouncing into it. I ordered a box of them from McMaster and had it fixed by the end of the week. I contacted Lisa on their google chat form and from what I understand, they now come with the screw as a result of my support ticket. This was an annoyance yes, but I've had more issues with my reprap and that costed me more than this pritner when I bought it. (I originally had a Makergear Prusa)
  
  
• What do you like the most and the least about this printer?
  
  Most: I love the fact that it prints 100% of the times I try to print something. I rarely, and I mean RARELY have a failed print. I love that I can hit print before I go to bed and wake up to a completed part in the morning.
  
  Least: This is small, and it took a while but I have since out grown the build platform (9x6x6 inches). I recently ordred an 8x12 plate from McMaster and that arrives on monday and we'll see how that works. (PSA this requires removing one of the extruders - if you want more info on this let me know)
  
  
• Have you printed with ABS?
  
  Yes, no issues. Just close up the printer with the included panels.
  
  
• If so, did you experience any problems such as curling?
  
  No, I use a glass build plate and a thin coat of purple glue stick. I then spritz water on the plate before each print. I never have a sticking issue and I never have warpage. I personally prefer PLA though since Hatchbox has come to light and makes GREAT PLA
  
  
• Have you had any problems with the metal bed warping or with leveling the bed?
  
  Like I said just above, I use a glass build plate, so I haven't had any warpage issues with the bp. Leveling the bed is a bit of a challenge but I'm fussy about it and I want it within 0.0005 or less so it takes me a while. The reason I'm fussy is because I've only had to level the bed 2 or 3 times since owning it.
  
  The first was when I got it
  
  The second was when I added the glass build plate
  
  The third was when I removed one extruder and added an aluminum carriage.
  
  That's it. It never lost it's level and it's gone through 3 moves (like I moved apartment to apartment)
  
  
• Finally, how is the customer service or community support for this printer? Thanks again!
  
  The only experience I had was with that screw initially. I contacted Lisa on their Google Chat forum and she handled it mostly. Sadly, it wasn't as 'perfect' as I wanted since their solution was to send the printer back instead of sending me a new screw. Never the less, they did try to help on the matter and told me how I could go about getting money for the screw if I so desired. In the long run, it's a screw and I just ordered them from McMaster. I have zero regrets from it and I think I know my printer a bit beter because of it.
  
  single extruder carriage (PSA: their single extruder block is not FF compatible.
  
  My Thingiverse for example prints
  
  Some things I would buy shortly after getting the printer:
  
  Spare Extruder fan : I tend to slip and put a screw drive in the path of this, shattering the blades. If you're a clutz like me, get it. I've needed 4 so far. ::hangs head in shame::
  
  Glass Build Plate : Best purchase I've made for my FF. Works great, easy to install and use. Also get thermal sheets and purple elmers glue, and print the spacer found on my Thingiverse page under "Flashforge Upgrades". Also get a spatula, and dikes
  
  Simplify3D : A lot people tend to spend $X,XXX on a printer and then try to use free software with it and complain when it doesn't print right. To me that's like buying a car without tires. A Corvette ain't shit without a decent set of tires. It's kind of pricy compared to free, I know, but at real CAM programs (which is what this basically is) cost $8,000 or more. It truely is a great printer program and I wish I had purchased it much MUCH sooner than I had.
  
  Last and most importantly, get the an active cooling fan. I originally printed this, and purchased a 12v power supply and added some fans to it. I have since moved on to the offical one from FF. It's not as good but I haven't really ran into an issue. If I had to print from my right extruder, it would be an issue though. What I liked about it, is that it's a plug and play added on. No "modifications" needed to added.
  
  TL;DR / Closing thoughts: I would buy this printer again in a heartbeat. ESPECIALLY if they came out with one similar to the Replicator 2 with the 11.9" build plate. Instead it looks like they went a different way judging by CES but oh well, there's always next year. Further more, I think this is a great entry level printer for someone looking to have a printer help with projects and not be one of them. That doesn't mean you can't mod it or upgrade or whatever, it just means you don't have to if you don't want to.
  
  
  Hope this helps and answers any questions you might have. Feel free to ask more though!
  

Greetings all!

My main suggestion to anyone wanting to get into vaping it is to skip the ego-starter kits, MVP2 (cheapish Vv or Vw boxes), non-rebuildable tanks (Protanks, Nautilus) and just drive right into the mechanical mod / box mod world. I say this because the vaping experience is so much better with rebuildables. I went with the all of the above, and I personally wished that someone would’ve told me to just dive right in, because all that stuff is sitting around not being used. The people that I’ve talked to are typically hesitant to do so because of the coil building, but there are so many YouTube tutorials, suggestions and information on /r/RBA and /r/electronic_cigarette that it’s much easier than it seems. Anyway, if I were to start all over again, these are the things which I’d buy.

Must Haves
These are the things which I consider essential to starting off the on the right foot. I’ve purchased a lot of things, and these are the things which I suggest to my friends. Most of the links are from Amazon, because it’s what I’ve primarily used.

Battery - Sony VTC5
http://www.eciggity.com/2-pc-sony-18650vtc5-2600mah-30a-battery/

These are pretty much the standard when it comes to “safe” batteries. They’re affordable, good amp limit and have been recommended many times. If you purchase from the link above, they also give you a plastic carrying case!

Charger - Nitecore i2 or Nitecore i4
http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-IntelliCharger-i4-Battery-Charger/dp/B005UAI372/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404287334&sr=8-1&keywords=nitecore

Affordable, reliable and these won’t “overcharge” your batteries. The difference between the i2 and i4 is the amount of batteries they can charge at a single time. They also have a new fancier one out, called the Digicharger D2 and Digicharger D4. Those are nice because it has a LCD panel that displays a lot more information than the i2 and i4. I personally use an just an i2.

Mechanical Mod - Stingray
http://www.vaperoyalty.com/hcigar-stingray-mod-stainless-steel/

Now, 90% of what is suggested for an actual mechanical mod is going to be of personal taste. The Stingray is the “older brother” of the Nemesis. This is what I purchased when I first started out vaping. The unit is very easy to break apart, clean, has a locking ring, has a floating 510 connection and venting holes in case of a battery leak. Almost everyone I know has a Stingray.

Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer - Magma by Infinite
http://101vape.com/rebuildable-atomizers-tanks/309-magma-atomizer-clone-by-infinite.html

One of the best purchases I’ve made. The juice wells are very deep compared to everything else on the market (that doesn’t have a tank system). Threads are nice, easy to build on, post holes are large and the air-flow is easy to manipulate. You can run this on a single coil or a dual coil. Blows almost all the other RDAs I have out of the water. This is my main RDA.

Organic Cotton - Maxim Hygiene Products Organic Cotton Balls
http://www.amazon.com/Organic-Cotton-Balls-Triple-count/dp/B00E8T2X36/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1404288337&sr=8-3&keywords=organic+cotton

I suggest using un-bleached, organic cotton. Some people take it one step further by washing them, I think thats taking it a bit far and I don’t do it. You can pick them up from any convenience store or supermarket (CVS, Walgreens, Target, Whole Foods), a 100 count will last you AGES.

Kanthal - AWG A1 26 Gauge
http://www.amazon.com/Kanthal-Gauge-100ft-0-40386-Resistance/dp/B00HALND7Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404288659&sr=8-1&keywords=kanthal+26

I like to use 26g kanthal wire for my dual coil builds. 26g is a bit thicker than what a lot of people suggest (28g), but for me, because it’s thicker, it’s easier to work with.

Screwdrivers - Stanley 6 Piece Screwdriver set
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00009OYGV/ref=oh_details_o05_s01_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The screwdrivers which come with your RDAs are short, small and crappy. I like these screw drivers because they come in a variety of sizes and you do not need to mess with a drill-bit. What I really like about these, is at the end of the drill bit is a small little ledge (can’t think of a better word), where you can push your coil and scrunch it up a bit.

Ohm meter / Multimeter - Any generic ohm reader or Innova 3300
http://101vape.com/meters/170-ohms-meter.html

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O1X65A/ref=oh_details_o02_s01_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can use a multimeter to do basically the same thing as an ohm reader. The multimeter has an added benefit of being able to read the volts are your battery as well. I have both, but I prefer to use a “regular” ohm reader. This video below can teach you how to use a multimeter for that purpose.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wgXAmPBAO5g&index=2&list=LLU7AM2JUxXCrj4TSCDQDffw

Optional items
Things that I’ve purchased that you can probably substitute with something in your house. They’re nice to have, most people have these, but I decided to link these anyway, because I didn’t have some stuff (my scissors were too large).

Scissors - Generic surgical scissors
http://www.amazon.com/Amercian-Diagnostic-Corporation-3425-Stainless/dp/B000GHIUR2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1404289491&sr=8-5&keywords=surgical+scissors

To cut your cotton. Small, sharp and gets the job done.

Tweezers - Ceramic tweezers
http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10007588/1655800-heat-resistant-stainless-steel-tweezers-for-e

Allows you to hold your coil together and torch them without heating up the tweezers.

Wire cutters - Hakko CHP-170
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPDG1K/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For cutting your kanthal off that spool!

Atomizer holder - Plano 23630-01
http://www.amazon.com/Plano-23630-01-Stowaway-Adjustable-Dividers/dp/B000E3FKVC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1404289861&sr=8-4&keywords=plano

You’re gonna buy a bunch of atomizers. Everyone buys a bunch. You’re not going to be able to help yourself. I use this plastic case to keep everything neat and separated.

Building deck - Tenderfoot Stands
https://www.facebook.com/tenderfoot.stands?fref=ts

You don’t need this. But it makes building RDAs easier. You can also place your juice filled RDAs on here.

Torch - Mini Jet Flame 503
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007A9YSPW/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This will help you get those coils nice and tight, without having to fire off your mechanical mod.

Battery Case - Bluecell
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q6PJO8/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you don’t buy the batteries from the link above, you’re gonna want a battery case. Do not keep your batteries loose in your pocket or floating around your bag. They can come in contact with something metal and potentially damage the battery.

I think the answer here may depend on what he wants to do with it. If it's for hunting the answer will be different than if it's for long-range target shooting. I'm going to assume that since you're posting here you're already pretty sure that it's for long range shooting rather than hunting.

Since I don't know how much you know about guns in general I'm going to write it all out assuming nothing, and then you can skip parts that you know. Likewise, in the future, someone who does know nothing might find this and find it useful. I'm writing this because I don't want you to think that I'm being condescending - I'm not trying to be - I just don't know what you already know.

Firstly, he's never going to complain about ammunition. To know which kind of ammunition to buy, take a photo of the writing on the barrel - it'll look something like this. What you're looking for is the part that's not describing the company that made it, or the patents that describe it. Take a photo of that on your phone. In the example photo is says ".300 WIN. MAG". .300 Win Mag is the cartridge that the rifle is chambered in - nothing else will shoot safely out of it, so it's very important to buy the right one. It may not begin with ".3" - it may begin with .2 or be something metric based like 6.5mm something or 7mm something. When it comes time to buy, use an ammunition search engine like AmmoSeek and find the longest match you can for the kind of ammunition. There's a lot of .300 <something> available, but the one that matches the most text is overwhelmingly likely to be correct. The rifle you're buying for will have some match in the list, unless it's custom and weird. If you're not certain that you've found the match then swing by any gun store with the photo and you can confirm with them. They'll likely ask you whether it's for hunting or range or target use. The difference there is in the bullet - hunting bullets peel outwards like a banana and stop in meat to transfer the most energy from the bullet to the animal, so that the animal doesn't get a chance to feel pain. Range/target bullets are designed to fly extremely predictably, but little care is given to what happens when it meets something. There is a third use case - if they ask you whether it's for "defense" or similar then either they don't know enough or they're being patronizing and assuming that you don't know anything. The next choice is the weight of the bullet. Lighter bullets fly faster, but can be blown around by the wind a bit more. The right choice here is "whatever he's already using". If you ever see any of the boxes of ammunition in the house, take photos of all sides of the box on your phone, and then later delete all the ones that don't tell you the weight. Chances are that the information will be on the end flaps that open, and what you're looking for is a number followed by either the word "grains" or its abbreviation "gr". Just for interest there's 437 grains in 1 ounce, and 15 grains in 1 gram. Chances are the number will be in the 70 to 300 range. When you buy, try to buy closest to what you took a photo of. Exact number doesn't matter, but close is good - if he's shooting .308 Win and you see a box of 167 grain bullets, then buying .308 Win with 168 grain bullets is fine (cartridge is correct, and bullet weight is close). Buying .308 Win with 175 grain bullets is okay (cartridge is right, bullet weight is a a little way off), but buying .308 Norma Mag with 168 grain bullets is wrong because the cartridge is wrong.

So, that's "how to find and choose ammo" covered. You can pad the purchase with ammunition to get to a target value.

Next, accessories - there are some accessories that depend on the specifics of the rifle - whether it's long action (LA) or short action (SA) or Magnum. These basically refer to how long the cartridge is. Armed with the knowledge of which cartridge the gun is chambered for, you stand a reasonable chance of finding out which is it by going to Magpul's page about their polymer magazines, and picking the "Remington 700" from the "Platforms" menu. This brings back some magazines. Click on each and scroll down to "Features" - the first line there has a list of example popular cartridges that fit. Make a note of which magazine it is - the length of the action is in the name. If none of them mention the cartridge, then you can also start googling for the cartridge name along with "short action" and "long action" and see what comes back. Chances are it's either pretty definitive, or people asking why you can't put short action cartridges in long action magazines.

Things that have already been mentioned are bipods, triggers and cases. None of these are bad choices, but they're worth a little time listening for, in case he expresses a preference for anything. For example, nobody thinks that buying a Harris bipod is a bad idea, but there are other less well-known choices that he may have decided to look in to - for example, I've got an Atlas bipod. In order to buy the right thing, you'll need to know how it connects to the rifle. A bipod will connect somewhere near the front, on the underside, not touching the barrel. Chances are that there's either a sling stud or a piece of Picatinny rail there, with the sling stud being much more likely. The bipod should connect to that, but since there are choices then you should pick the one that matches what's on the rifle.

With regards to triggers, there are two well-known names - Timney and Jewell (who apparently don't have a website that Google knows about). Both are great. Both require installation in the same manner - undo the two screws holding the rifle into the stock, use a small hammer and punch to a tap a couple of pins out, put the new trigger unit in place, and then tap the screws back in to place, and put screw the rifle back in to the stock. This sounds easy, but there is opportunity to screw up - the trigger has parts that are only held in by the other parts of the rifle, and the screws have to be done up to a specific tightness. If you don't think the person you're buying for would be happy doing that work, then you can pay your local gun store to do it for you for about an hour of their time. Be aware that both Timney and Jewell make triggers for other guns, too.

Someone mentioned magazines - also a great choice, if the rifle can take them. On the underside of the rifle just in front of the trigger guard will be either a plate, or a hole. If it's a hole, then it takes magazines. If it's a plate then it doesn't, yet. If you want to buy magazines, it's probably best to stick with what he's already got. You'll need to know whether you're dealing with short action, long action or magnum, and the instructions for that are above.

Now, if he doesn't have a hole for a magazine in the rifle, that's actually a thing that can be changed with two screws. That said, these are the same two screws that need tightening to a specific tightness. Remington made a few major families of the 700 rifle - the ADL, BDL and CDL. I have no idea what they stand for (if anything). The important thing here is that the ADL isn't made anymore and the BDL and CDL have the plate as part of the trigger guard that covers the hole where the magazine would go. To be more complete, it does cover a magazine, but it's internal to the rifle and you can't just swap it for a fresh, full magazine when it's empty. It's called a blind magazine. The part we're going to replace this with is called "bottom metal", because it's the piece of metal at the bottom of the rifle. Yep, that's how imaginative we are at naming things. There are two main shapes that this bottom metal comes in - BDL and M5. BDL is a straight swap with what's already there. M5 is bigger, and requires machining out some of the stock to make room for it. The process is called "inletting". Your local gunsmith would do this from a template with a router. You'll also need to know whether you're buying for a short action rifle or a long action rifle. A good brand name here is "Pacific Tool and Gauge", or Magpul (pick Remington 700 from the "Platforms" list) but there are quite a lot of choices.

Another choice might be a shooting rest bag. I don't use one, so I don't have good advice here.

Another good choice might be tools for him to make changes he wants to make to his rifle. The best advice I'd give for this one is a FAT Wrench. It's a screwdriver that stops at a tightness that you set. That's how you make sure that the screws are at the right tightness, and with long-range stuff, everything needs to be the right tightness.

Finally - where the heck do you buy from? The big names to buy from are Brownells and MidwayUSA. They both mark the outside of their boxes, though, so it's worth considering having them deliver to your office or to a friend, so that you can repackage before bringing it inside your home to avoid suspicion.


One last thing - if you do have any questions about this you can send me a private message and I'll ask for photos of the whole gun and the information about the cartridge and I'll be happy to help.

First of all, amazing. Second of all, how are you not platinum?

And I have to agree with your general thoughts on soldering. When I ended up using every io on my teensy and I didn’t have a short or cross, I almost jumped for joy. I know I at least stood up, fists in the air. It was so ugly but damn if it didn’t work.

The trick, in the end, was flux and a heavier duty mask : ) it’s like congealed magic poison but in a good way!

And, ya know, I ended up using the too large straight tip I had on my last project as well. I had just figured I’d have to use this one for something so fine. Sounds like I might like and have as much luck with a finer straight tip. I was finding that it was hard to keep those fine tips clean though. Hoping the lower temps were part of that.

And I’m absolutely going to try the hot air station. Let’s face it. I’m going to pretty much try every one of your suggestions, from leaded solder to 28 gage wire. You seem like someone who is passionate about this stuff and knows what you’re taking about. That’s a winning combo in my book. I’ve just gotta get past my fear of melting lead close to my face.

One last question: have you found any solid core 28 gage wire that is worth a damn? The best I’ve found is this 30 gage wire . It’s okay but it came in such a rats nest.

Finally, I’m going to attempt to give back a little. You’re probably already aware of this device but it has been a godsend. Are you familiar with this Irwin Vice Grip Wire Stripper. I’d used similar devices before and found them to be more trouble than they are worth. These, though, are amazing. Truly. Barely ever have to adjust. They strip most small electronics wire (10-24) in one fluid motion with zero adjustment. Sometimes I have to tighten but it’s rare. Really one of my favorite tools of all time.

And, again, thank you for taking the time to give such helpful suggestions. I’ll be referring back to this often.

Sturdy step stool ($40) - not the rickety tubular kitchen chair ones, I mean one where you can stand on the top. a Buy it for Life item, not inexpensive, but safe. https://www.amazon.com/Louisville-Ladder-AS3002-6966014-2-Foot/dp/B00182TWL2

Leatherman multi tool (around $50), which i keep in the junk bowl because I can never find a screwdriver fast enough. Pricey new, less expensive when you buy it second hand or in a pawn shop. they don't really break, but you do have to clean and oil them once a year. https://www.amazon.com/LEATHERMAN-Wingman-Multitool-Stainless-Steel/dp/B005DI0XM4/

Cordless drill (under $50), mine basically has the screw driver bit in it 90% of the time. the rest of the time I drill lots of pilot holes. pay attention to the battery... if you can get one with a battery that is shared by other tools in the line, then it is easily replaceable and if you buy another tool in that line you can swap batteries. I like to have 1 battery in the charger and one in the device. https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-Cordless-Driver-BDCDD12C/dp/B0111N8L7I/

Spirit, bubble or torpedo level. (under $10) the Hanging kit usually contains just the wires and hooks, but you need a small spirit level for hanging pictures and shelves evenly. doesn't matter the brand they all work the same https://www.amazon.com/WilFiks-Leveling-Resistant-Different-Visibility/dp/B07M62GJYP/

Small tool boxes vary in quality. I don't know if this is for you or someone else. But don't buy anything unless it's a NAME BRAND, cheap metal tools bend and can break with too much torque. Even the Stanley line that Walmart sells isn't fabulous, but it's better than a nameless brand. I don't like SETS of tools, but you need to start someplace, buy GOOD tools one at a time, I love finding $$$ tools at thrift stores. https://www.amazon.com/STANLEY-94-248-Piece-Homeowners-Tool/dp/B000UHMITE/(i bought a cheap socket set 4 years ago to replace my stolen ones and they already have rust)

Bucket organizer. (around $15) If you buy a SET of tools, take the plastic blow molded container and put it in the recycling. You will never bother putting the tools back in and when you get more tools they won't fit. Bucket Organizers are pockets that fit around a 5 gallon bucket. You shove your tools into the pockets and everything else in the middle. And keep it in the bottom of your closet and carry it to where you need the tools. https://www.amazon.com/Bucket-Boss-10030-Bucketeer-BTO/dp/B00GK4TOWK

Tack Hammer. (under $15) You won't need a big 22 oz hammer, but a smaller 16 oz one with a normal handled and then a Tack hammer, these have a narrow head and sometimes are magnetic and hold the nail in place. Tack hammers are easier to use for hanging things exactly where you want them. https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-54-304-5-Ounce-Magnetic-Hammer/dp/B00002X1XD

Stud finder.(under $20) uses a battery, and lets you know where the studs are behind drywall. BEST PURCHASE EVER. https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Stud-Finder-Wall-Detector/dp/B07VLDTVFQ/ any brand will work fine.

Digital Infared Thermometer (under $20) Non-contact Digital Laser Infrared Thermometer Temperature Gun - ALSO BEST PURCHASE EVER... works in the kitchen for food and oven temp, fridge temp, and for locating drafts and cold spots around doors and windows. https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-1080-Non-Contact-Thermometer/dp/B00DMI632G

Toilet Plunger - the sort with the extra bit on the end. https://www.amazon.com/Get-Bats-Out-Plunger-Bathroom/dp/B00ODD5MD0 you do NOT want to be waiting around for someone to unblock your toilet. It may be disgusting but scoop out some of what's in the toilet before you start plunging, it's less disgusting than having to mop it off the floor. You want the plunger that makes a seal around the bottom.

BUCKET. (under $10) mine is constantly in use, i keep it in the tub and toss wet things into it. I have gone through EVERY TYPE on offer...I was so sick of plastic buckets, that warped and stained, where the handles ripped out. But the BEST and cheapest one I have ever found is a flat back duraflex bucket for watering horses. Not kidding. Made of a hard polyethylene these things are designed to be flung around and stepped on by 2000 lb animals. https://www.amazon.com/LITTLE-GIANT-Flat-Back-Dura-Flex-Plastic/dp/B000HHLHPS/ these are cheap if you buy them in a feed store, but even with the shipping on Amazon it is WELL WORTH the money. You will need a bucket when you empty the back of the toilet tank to change the flushing flapper or gasket, and you will need it when you empty the commode itself, if you have to change out the wax seal underneath.

Blanket hangers. (6 for $27) yeah this is obscure, but when I moved I lost a LOT of storage space. These saved my sanity. I use them to hang up quilts and sleeping bags in the back of the closet OFF SEASON. I also use them to hang blankets, sheets curtains and stuff once they come out of the laundry aren't quite dry. I didn't even know there was such a thing before now I wouldn't give them up. https://www.amazon.com/Stock-Your-Home-Comforter-Organization/dp/B00EUG51JU

Flashlight. ($30-50) I've written about these before. Until I bought a GOOD one, I had no idea how bad the others were. Cheap flashlights are great to have scattered about in the cellar, or in the junk drawer. but if you really want TO SEE, get a great flashlight. I gifted myself one for christmas one year and I love it. It hangs by the door and if I am going to be out very late or the weather is bad, I shove it in my bag. It will also illuminate Well past the end of the porch and into the yard if I hear a noise. https://www.amazon.com/Pelican-Carded-SabreLite-Flashlight-Yellow/dp/B01CKAIYV4 any very good brand will do, but I found Maglites to be dangerously useless.

Steel is steel mate. You can go with the expensive stuff, or with the cheap stuff - We're talking expensive at several hundred and cheap as under 20-50. I've seen 20 dollars knives made just as well as the 600 dollar knives, they just dont have the name brand. It's a chunk of steel, treated so it stands up to specific conditions and holds an edge better. It looks to be full tang - not sure what is up with the holes in the blade, or the design near the MT-5 logo. I found pictures online, looks like the steel comes out a bunch there? No idea what this design is or what purpose it could have - looks sketchy. And the holes in the blade...I mean I've seen the 5 dollar walmart knives with holes so you can create a makeshift spear but..Other then that, no idea why they are on this knife, and they cause more harm then good. You can use it for basic bushcrafting tasks but I'd be careful batoning, I've personally never heard of the brand - it could be name brand and be great, but it has some weird designs.

​

Really, steel is steel - all the fancy features cause more harm than good.

https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Companion-Stainless-4-1-Inch-Military/dp/B004ZAIXSC/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=morakniv&qid=1571462370&s=sporting-goods&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sr=1-4

That is a 12 dollar knife, and you really won't ever need more, but there are better options. The 12 dollar knife has a thinner blade and isn't suitable to as heavy duty work, but is a great beater knife for doing anything.

https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Bushcraft-Survival-Starter-4-3-Inch/dp/B00BFI8TOA/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=morakniv&qid=1571462370&s=sporting-goods&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sr=1-7

And their top of the line knives are

https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Garberg-Carbon-Leather-Sheath/dp/B07B8SP4G9/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&keywords=morakniv&qid=1571462370&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-10

https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-M-12642-Stainless-Compatible-4-3-inch/dp/B01I1GITMA/ref=sr_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=morakniv&qid=1571462370&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-12

There's a carbon version and stainless steel version. I'm gonna be honest...for the most part, they all do the same thing, but people want different things and fancier things - the garberg is the only full tang out of the bunch, but even their half tang knives are bulletproof, they hold up incredibly well and I've batoned with him countless times without issue. Mora, IMO makes the best knives - I have several other brands, and there are some I like better for ergonomics - but that's not the point, the point is any knife will work, steel is steel. Just find what you think looks and feels good, learn how to sharpen it and what you like, it depends on the what materials/types of trees you are working with, and what type of work you do. I prefer convex and Scandinavian grind (V Grind) knives, the Cudeman MT-5 looks to be a full flat grind - which I mean..AFIAK is mostly used in like chef knives and stuff, it's incredibly sharp but it's not durable, hitting hard objects is gonna cause knicks and it's gonna be brittle. This is all from experience, it's not like im an expert - but to be fair, I'd just keep trying different ones and see how you like it, but I wouldn't go spending crazy money, the $300 knives you see all the fancy bushcrafters use...these are what I call wall knives..They use them in the videos cause they look good but most people would just keep them at home and keep using their beater knives, because we are hard on our equipment and honestly, they work just as wall, all the fancy scalings and what not make them expensive, but they don't make them better.

TL;DR: Steel is steel. Get a cheap knife, in a better grind suited for the work your doing. All depends on what work you do, and what tress you have, soft woods, hard woods ETC.

​

Edit: Definately don't have to go with Mora, I've just always used them and they've done me well.

Well, If filmmaking and video is your goal with these cameras I wouldn't recommend either.

If you're just starting and serious about video production here's a pretty effective starter kit that's just a tad over your $400 budget.

[Camera: Canon Vixia HF R400] (http://www.amazon.com/Canon-VIXIA-R400-Advanced-Camcorder/dp/B00AWZFJ22/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395594961&sr=8-1&keywords=canon+vixia+hf+r400)
This is a decent starter camera. It's got a decent range of focal lengths, optical stabilization, microphone input, progressive frame-rates and most of all designed with video in mind. You'll need a SD Card

I noticed the cameras you picked resembles DSLRs but keep in mind that these in particular are not and with fixed lenses which defeats the purpose of having DSLR for video. Trust me, learn how to be effective with a camcorder first! Then, when your skill requires more artistic control you can upgrade.

Audio:
[Microphone:] (http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR-6550-Condenser-Shotgun-Microphone/dp/B002GYPS3M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395595673&sr=8-1&keywords=shotgun+microphone)
Having clean audio is probably the most important part filmmaking! The key is to get the mic as close to your subject as possible and away from your camera. You'll need a cable. If you need to mount it to your camera use this [bracket.] (http://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Photography-Bracket-Standard-Mounts/dp/B005Z4ROIW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395595189&sr=8-1&keywords=flash+bracket) This bracket will also help keep the camera stabilized when you go handheld.

Keep in mind this won't deliver perfect audio but it will be a MASSIVE improvement to the on board microphone and learning how to record with decent audio in mind is your first step into becoming a pro.

[Lighting:] (http://www.amazon.com/Bayco-SL-300-Clamp-Aluminum-Reflector/dp/B007RKKEHA/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1395595354&sr=8-17&keywords=can+lights)
Lighting is EXTREMELY important. A couple of these can lights will not only help with your image quality but put in you in the right direction for learning how to properly light your scene. You could start with daylight equivalent CFL bulbs.

[Tripod:] (http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-60-Inch-Lightweight-Tripod-Bag/dp/B005KP473Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1395595413&sr=8-3&keywords=tripod)
You NEED a tripod. This one is cheap and cheerful. Looping the ends of a couple rubber brands around the pan handle and the other end around your finger will help deliver some smoother pans!

Total: $425/£258

Some things to keep in mind:

• These are far from pro tools but if all used in conjuncture you can deliver a much more effective production than just merely using a camera on a tripod.
  
  
• Build a crew of friends. Although you can "one man band" it I don't recommend it because one of coolest things about film is that it's almost always a group effort towards an artistic goal!
  
  
• Most importantly, the equipment are just tools. They don't tell the story; you do! Your film/video is only as powerful as the story you want to tell!
  
  Best of luck to you!
  
  edit: formatting
  

Youtube I guess. Here's some info about rebuilding in general, feel free to skip what you already know. Make sure you get an ohm reader first thing. You can buy wire and an ohm reader at lightningvapes.com with coupon code LV20 for 20% off. I think most people recommend 26g wire. I went with 24 and it's awesome for subohming, if you're planning to build higher, 28g would be the best. I'm not sure how well 30g will work out but the link below will let you know!

Also check out this website: http://steam-engine.org/coil.asp

On there you input your gauge wire, single/dual/etc coil, your target resistance and what the diameter of your coil is (you'll know this by which drill bit you wrap your wire around. It'll tell you how many wraps to do to get the resistance you want. After you build you'll want to throw the atty on the ohm reader to check for shorts (it won't show a regular reading if it's shorting) and also to check if you're near what your target resistance was. Don't be worried if it's not exact, the 510 ohm reader boxes aren't known for accuracy. If you're within 0.05 ohms you're good. Also some people like to build on their ohm reader, it's nice.

As far as other tools for rebuilding. I would recommend this screwdriver set: http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-052-6-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00009OYGV/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1420044741&sr=1-2&keywords=stanley+6+piece+precision+screwdriver+set

It's great, I use it everytime I touch my mod for maintenance. Not sure what other people use but since I got that I never looked for anything else! The bits are awesome for wrapping coils around and the phillips will fit your post screws for sure.

That's about all you need really. Other than wire cutters and pliers/tweezers. You can get these awesome ceramic tipped tweezers from that first site. The ceramic won't get hot so you can squeeze your coils tighter with them while the coils are hot.

As far as preventing shorts, well I've never had a short so I can only tell you what I do. Don't let your coils' excess legs be hanging out and flying around all willy-nilly. Cut them nice and close and if you can't get close enough, bend them upward. That's about it as far as I know.

Let me know if you have any questions, sorry I couldn't teach you to build!

People own homes without knowing how to do shit all the time. It's fine. A willingness to learn is more important than a brain full of knowledge for your average homeowner.

In my opinion, short of taking a class at a place, the best way to learn is by doing.

Find a project that you want to do. Google and Youtube how to do it. Do it.

I have zero interest in automotive, but I have some interest in carpentry, so that's what I'll address.

Figure out something that you want but don't have. Start simple - rectangles and squares are easy to make. Maybe you'd like an end-table? Or a coffee table? Do you need a bookshelf? All of those are made using only rectangles and squares.

A surprising amount of home carpentry projects can be made with "Dimensional Lumber" aka "what you can buy a home depot" and a minimum amount of tools. Just be aware that a 2x4 isn't actually 2 inches by 4 inches when drawing up your plans! (and yes, you need to draw up your plans and develop a 'cut list' so you can get all the cutting out of the way before you start with assembly rather than jumping back and forth)

While things can be done with hand tools, if you have the capability of working outdoors or 'dirty' indoor spaces like a garage, I'd suggest getting at least a circular saw. They're relatively inexpensive and easy to use for short straight cuts - but be prepared to sacrifice a board or two to the learning gods. But if you're going to have to work indoors inside your living spaces, a tarp and hand saws can address 90% of the mess. Either way, though, get a decent drill and a bit set.

-----------------

The only real tools that I would say are 'must haves' before owning a home is a generic tool kit and a studfinder. There's lots of prebundled toolkits that have the basics. At the very least, make sure you want a hammer, a screwdriver with interchangeable bits, a set of allen wrenches (both metric and standard), a measuring tape (at least 10 feet long, but longer is better up to a point), a set of wrenches (ratchet is nice, but not alwyas needed), and a spirit level. Basically this but look around, there's lots of inexpensive but decent tool kits out there. Those will be the tools you need the most for non-specialized tasks. You won't be renovating a bathroom with it, but you can certainly install a new toiletpaper roll holder, tighten up a loose cabinet door, hang a picture, and assemble most anything that doesn't come with it's own tools with it.

Oh, and get 3-in-1 household oil. WD-40 isn't a long term lubricant.

You're so generous for doing this! I've always wanted a nice multitool but I don't generally have a huge amount to spend on knives and cool gear like this. I really hope I can win! I would love to put a leatherman into my daily carry.

Thanks again and good luck with your website! It seems to be pretty well set up.

I would love this one!
https://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-Sidekick/dp/B005DI2QTC/?tag=parametrek-20

Knives.

I feel some sort of a utility-blade knife is great for fine / small / delicate work, and pair it with a nice medium - large, solid fixed blade knife is a good idea.

This is a ridiculously nice knife for the price:

SOG Tactical Knife with Sheath - “Field Knife” Fixed Blade Knives FK1001-CP 4” Fixed Blade Knife with Full Tang Sharp Knife Blade + Survival Knife Grip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUJBTBO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_.n2YBb2XANXSB



Also I’ve found that Schrade knives seem to provide an exceptionally good value. I bought this one for my bag when it was closer to I think $22/23.00....can’t beat that! Honestly I’m prob going to start collecting them. They’re super inexpensive yet pretty good quality / pretty well rated.

As much as I truly love and used to only go for the best, most expensive stuff, I’d rather have several less expensive knives stashed around instead of one super expensive one that I’m afraid to use, lose, break.

Schrade by BTI Tools SCHF36CP Frontier, 5" High Carbon Steel Blade, Full Tang, Clam https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019RSXGYM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_Dq2YBb8BG9BV0


I did some research (of course....all my suggestions here are very well researched) and for the price, the 2 knives above are very good values. Don’t get me wrong; I love super high-quality, expensive things - especially knives - but;

• I have around 20-ish knives and literally the only knife I ever use is my Gerger EAB utility knife and I only use it to open packages. :-|
  
  
• As these are dedicated for car kits, there’s a chance they’ll get lost or stolen so I certainly don’t want a $200+ knife to play that role.
  
  
  
  Gerber EAB Pocket Knife [22-41830] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016KHW2W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_px2YBb0W6VBGD
  
  These things are ridiculously small and useful. Great for EDC or VEDC. Been carrying one for years & use it all the time. Get the one I linked, NOT the fancy-looking new “upgraded” model - it is a POS. I bought 2-3 and the clip broke off on EACH of them almost immediately. It is also much larger than the original EAB.
  
  OR you can get something like this because you have spare blades + larger handle / better grip.
  
  Folding Utility Knife, Heavy Duty, Triple Ground Blades Stay Sharp, Pocket Clip Klein Tools 44131 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A9GGGYY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_wy2YBbA03MMH6
  
  
  
  
  Also a crowbar of some sort so that you aren’t tempted to use any of your knives as a crowbar.

Get good wrenches, socket wrenches and sockets because these are what you will be using the vast majority of the time. Make sure you get a set of short AND deep sockets too. I might honestly get deep socket first if you have to pick. Also get a 3/4" torque wrench and don't get the harbor freight ones of those. Amazon has good options here. If you spent all of your money on the above items and then added other stuff later you'd be well served. Buying a big kit seems attractive but really putting your money where you will use it the most is a better long term plan. Gearwrench makes good ratcheting wrenches for the price if you want that, but if you aren't willing to spend at least that on wrenches amount get non-ratcheting wrenches instead. Also this thing is one of the handiest tools I own. It's very well built and a very clever design.

Harbor freight does make some OK stuff but it's better to buy less critical things there. I have a set of allen wrenches that have been fine, and their impact sockets are actually pretty good, but you probably won't have an impact for awhile (which is good tbh).

Left to Right, mostly:



Green Cards - I switch this out with other cards pretty regularly, but it matched today. ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ESWPAKU/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_R-0TDbZEN6C0N )



Slim Wallet - It's super thin and it attaches to my phone. ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P4J55NV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9msGDb54PTKM2 )



Watch - It's durable and in my opinion doesn't look too bad for the price. ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009KYJAJY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BosGDbN06048V )



Wireless Earbuds - They are dated so they aren't the best anymore, but they are still pretty good. ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07582VVJR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QnCDDbV5X5EQY )



Multitool - It doesn't have a knife so I take this to school. It's not the best, but it does small things great. ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058RX9NU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_Rc1TDbRPMMDB0 )



Flashlight - For the size, it is really bright. It doesn't last forever, but it is rechargeable. I recommend it for something small. ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GQRJLDP/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_6g1TDb65T465P )



Knife - This sub knows this knife. ( https://www.bladehq.com/item--Benchmade-Bugout-AXIS-Lock-Knife--98607 )



Necklace - Totally normal carbon fiber dog tag. ( https://www.bladehq.com/item--Spyderco-Panchenko-Dog-Tag-Folder--29966 )


If anyone has any questions about any of this stuff, leave a comment and I'll do my best to respond. To clarify, the knife goes in my pocket and I put on the necklace after school. 

Thanks for taking the time to check out my post! Have a good rest of your day everyone!

This is my first EDC post, hope you all enjoy

1. Samsung Galaxy S5, Black 16GB
   
2. Samsung earbuds
   
3. My Knives that I rotate every now and then.
   Kershaw 1830 OSO Sweet Pocket Knife
   Kershaw 1304BW blackwash: this came in the kershaw walmart gift set (2015)
   
4. My flashlights that I rotate as well
   Streamlight 66318 MicroStream C4 LED Pen Flashlight
   ThorFire PF01 Tactical LED Flashlight Pen Light
   
5. My Watches
   Pebble Smartwatch Black I wear this one the most, as I love being able to control my music with it
   Invicta Signature model 7376 This is my Fancy watch. I bought it on a cruise a couple years ago, I only wear it for special occasions.
   
6. Kindle PaperWhite 5th gen I’ve been reading lots of programing books lately
   
7. Victorinox Swiss Army Huntsman with Free Pouch
   
8. Quick Info Cards with wake turbulence separation, and mandatory advisories, handed out by my Air traffic Control Professor. I’m a ATC Major.
   
9. Kershaw keychain tool, Also included in in the kershaw walmart gift set (2015)
   
10. 8gb Key flash drive
    
11. Sony VAIO® E Series Laptop Model # SVE14A27CXH, great laptop I grabbed before college. Has a I7 and 8gb of Ram. Good for games and school work.
    
12. Mophie Juice Pack Charger I love this thing, I waste so much battery browsing Reddit on my phone when I have free time in-between classes or when I have down time at work.
    
13. Handmade wallet from Dollywood, theme park, TN. Not shown in the Picture
    That’s it.
    

What type of list would you be looking for? I have a spreadsheet with all the Knipex tools I own, and my wish list of tools I'm looking to buy when I find them at the right price, but I don't think that spreadsheet would be that useful to most people.


I work with shielded cable all the time at work. The Knipex Snips are great at stripping them. You can get the Knipex snips for about $20 if you look around. Check out the design on them and you'll see the little indention at the base of them which makes them really good at stripping stuff like shielded cable and Cat5/6.


for 18/2 or 22/4 shielded cable the #12 stripper slot on a regular pair of Klein strippers works really well. The Knipex automatic wire strippers are only designed for individual conductors, but they do a really good job of stripping every wire the exact same length which is really handy for terminating panels.


I have a pair of Irwin automatic strippers, and they do OK with stripping the jackets off cables, but overall I wasn't impressed with them and stopped carrying them at work. You might have good luck with them - they have good reviews.

The cheaper route and the best temporary setup would be 55 watt CFL bulbs in a work lamp reflector (they label cfls on equivalent to incandescent bulbs and actual watts used just pay attention to the actual watts used). I use this setup for my succulents and they work great but they don't have enough power for fruiting or flowering plants they are great for the growing stages. The CFLs need to be very close to the plants but far enough where the light doesn't burn them and you need multiple bulbs or one of these kind of florescent lights if you need to cover a lot of area. The 55 watt bulbs can cover about a 1.5'X1.5' area if they are smaller plants.

You can get the big 55 watt bulbs and the reflectors at Walmart. The smaller 25 watt cfls work great too but they need to be very close like 2 inches away close and you need multiples you can fit 4 of them on a power strip with adapters.

The LEDs cost a lot more even the smaller ones but you can find them here for pretty cheap they are the most power efficient option out of the two but they don't come cheap. You get what you pay for when it comes to grow lights.

Edit: they also sell 6500k 55 watt CFLs that have a bit better color for growing.

Are you open to suggestions?

If you haven't already ripped the packaging off of it, my personal recommendation is to not use the Klein non-contact voltage tester (ticker). My experience with it was not good. It was unreliable and the on/off button is junk so the damn thing would never turn off, then it would sit and beep at me constantly while it was in my tool pouch. I finally got rid of it and bought the Santronics ticker. Easily one of the best purchases I've made as an electrician. It's always on, silent, and extremely reliable.

Also, for your hammer I would recommend one with a longer head on it like this one. The reason for this is because you will be doing a lot of work with deep 1900 boxes and 11bs (don't worry if you don't know what those are yet, you will find out soon) and if you're using fasteners that require pounding in with a hammer, you will need a different hammer than the one you have. If you're doing residential work and need to pound staples inbetween studs, you can just use the side of your hammer.

You can probably just return those gloves. You will (or should) be provided with work gloves (many, many pairs of them) at every jobsite you ever work at. You'll never have to buy another pair of work gloves in your life, I can promise you that.

As others have said, get the Klein multi-tool. The 32500 model is the one I use, along with some other commenters in this thread. They are cheap, you'll probably lose the tips every now and then, but it will easily be your most used tool, especially if you're doing a lot of devicing.

Another personal recommendation of mine would be the Ideal Tool Backpack for hauling your stuff around. Sometimes there's a lot of walking involved in getting to and from jobsites, and being able to carry your tools on your back is a lot nicer than carrying them in your hands. It's also nice having your hands free for carrying your lunch box around!

Congratulations on getting in! Keep up a good attitude and you'll do fine. Don't let anyone get on your nerves. 8 hours is 8 hours, make the best of it at all times.

Well, ShitOnYourMom, the best way to get a start in whittling is to start. That may seem silly, but you'll need practice, and the acceptance that it will take a bit to get comfortable understanding the grain and learning to work with it. You'll need wood (I prefer green, unseasoned wood - as in directly from a living tree) and some basic tools. I'll give examples for someone on a budget, so that this will be relevant advice for anyone who may read it. Any small axe with a narrow profile and a blade you can choke up on will work. like this: http://www.knifecenter.com/item/CN4052C15/Condor-Tool-and-Knife-Woodworker-Axe-5-12-inch-Carbon-Steel-Head-American-Hickory-Handle-Leather-Sheath
I use this one (A Hans Karlsson sloyd axe):
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KoKxz2rDEAE/UfiKUo8EhhI/AAAAAAAAAK8/UMz87UUUEII/s1600/axe2.jpeg
And you'll need a knife or two. I suggest a Mora 120 or 106. The difference is the 106 has a longer blade. The longer blade allows you to take longer continuous cuts, while the shorter allows you to choke up and get finer detail work. Example: http://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Carving-Knife-Laminated-1-9-Inch/dp/B004GATX62/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1396873922&sr=8-2&keywords=mora+carving
I suggest the Mora knives because they're quite decent for the money.
You'll also want a hook knife if you'll be making spoons, cups, etc. You want to make sure you go quality on this one. A poorly designed and executed hook knife is unpleasant and ineffective to use.
I have one of these, and I enjoy it very much: http://www.deepwoodsventures.com/301spooncarver.html
Lastly, you'll need something for sharpening. I just went the route of buying decent tools that arrived razor sharp, and then used a leather strop to keep them sharp. Like this: http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/8-Leather-Bench-Strop-P263C11.aspx
The strop should have some honing compound rubbed on it. I use jeweler's rouge. You can easily make a strop from some tanned leather. Now that I've listed all of that, you just need some inspiration, some knowledge, and some patience. You can find the first two of these in this giant list:

Good luck, and feel free to PM me or post more questions. The reason I share photos of my work (and the work in person) is to inspire others to pursue crafts. The world needs as much art and craft as possible.
-Adam

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Title | Vaping Coil Winding Jig Tool
Description | Fasttech Vaping Coil Winding Jig Tool for Rebuildable Atomizers https://www.fasttech.com/p/1926001 stainless steel / 1.5mm + 2.0mm + 2.5mm + 3.0mm + 3.5mm sections SKU 1926001
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Title | UD Coil Jig V3 - Demonstration
Description | UD Coil Jig V3 http://www.vapetime.co.uk This is a quick demonstration of the Coil Jig V3 by Youde Technology. For more information please visit: http://www.vapetime.co.uk/ud-coil-jig-v3/ If you have any questions please do not hesitate to call, contact us or leave a comment. We are always happy to help :)
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Title | Quick and Effective coil build for RDA atomizers
Description | ::EDIT:: It's a good idea to check your resistance ( ohms ) BEFORE you attempt to glow and fiddle with your coils. The resistance will change as your coils get more even. So check before, then check again after. Thanks. Hey everyone! If i'm being 100% honest. I mostly shot this video for my brother who recently got into the world of rebuilding. He was really struggling with it. Rebuilding has become such second nature to me that I often forget how it feels to be building for the first time and that sense of frustration that sets in quickly. So hopefully some other people will find this video helpful. Rebuilding honestly just takes practice and patience. ANYONE can do a solid simple build that will produce both great flavor and large clouds ( if you want ) The build in this video came out to 0.3ohms, which will work great on a mech mod, or on a higher wattage regulated device like the Sigelei 150w or iStick 50w I used 24g Kanthal, 6 wraps around a 2.5mm screwdriver. Below I have links to most everything I used in this video. Including some "beginner friendly" RDA atomizers. Precision screw drivers http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-052-6-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00009OYGV/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1435336275&sr=8-1&keywords=precision+screwdriver+set&pebp=1435336344707&perid=1M11EBNKQ3Z63A7B0VQ8 Wire Clippers http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Stand-off-Construction-21-Degree/dp/B00FZPDG1K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1435336368&sr=8-1&keywords=Wire+Clippers 24g Kanthal http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Lightning-Vapes-Kanthal-Resistance/dp/B00JWYIHLY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1435336391&sr=8-1&keywords=Kanthal&pebp=1435336399204&perid=0Q2SHF5N87Q64YJT5F9E Organic Japanese Cotton http://www.amazon.com/Japanese-Organic-Cotton-Organic-unbleached-Largest/dp/B00P219C5Q Unfortunately the VapeKit has been discontinued. They are doing a V2 kit, but in the meantime check this one out http://www.coil-master.net/product/diy-kit Some good RDA's for new builders IMO Mutation X V4 http://www.vapordna.com/Project-Sub-Ohm-Designed-Mutation-X-V4-RDA-p/psmxv4.htm The Mako http://www.beyondvape.com/store/import-cat-c-1_2/beyond-vape-mako-rda-p-1927.html The IMP http://www.empiremods.com/product_p/youdimp.htm Thanks so much for watching everyone! hope this is helpful. Feel free to follow me on Instagram http://instagram.com/grimmgreen/ Twitter https://twitter.com/GrimmGreen Facebook https://www.facebook.com/GrimmGreen Also please remember that unless you make it so I can reply to you. I will be un-able to reply to your comments.
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The Mora carving knife is an absolute classic and works wonderfully. It's not the prettiest thing but it really works.

I do a lot of carving and frequently use:

Basically any Mora (the red, wood handled classic is a great option too)

Helle: Odel (not a traditional carver but I love using it)

Kellam: Puukko

Enzo: Trapper (a bit beefier than a usual carving knife choice but works quite well)

Bark River: Bravo EDC (again not a traditional option but I really love carving with this thing)

A small Ahti puukko

A small and medium Wood Jewel puukko


Another idea that might be fun is get him a couple of the small Lauri puukko blades and he can carve his own handle, drill a hole and epoxy it on. Just a thought. The Lauri blades are wildly affordable and the smaller thinner ones make amazing little carving knives.

Down the line you might want to consider a small model drill for drilling out gun barrels with if you plan to do a lot of armor models. This isn't a necessity, but adds to the look of a finished model:

https://www.amazon.com/tool-home-Precision-Model-Drill-Twist/dp/B010BV7190/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482606813&sr=8-1&keywords=model+drill

Painting is a big part of model making as well, and weathering is the cherry on top. Vallejo's AFV system is a good place to start for basic weathering. These kits give you the basic washes and pigments with instructions for getting a pretty nice result.

https://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-Weathering-Yellow-Grey-Vehicles/dp/B00BATBLRG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482607023&sr=8-1&keywords=Vallejo+AFV+Weathering

Welcome to the hobby! I visit my local hobby shop on a regular basis and every time Im there I end up picking up a small bottle of paint or pigments to add to the arsenal. As you get into it you will see what you need and dont need according to your style, but with what you have posted and what has been suggested, you are pretty much ready to go! Have fun and don't forget to post what you do here on reddit! We wanna see!

Every job I've had has been blue collar, or at least a mix of field and office work. Currently, I'm a woodworker, so I'm sure you can imagine how often things like splinters are a thing. I first started carrying the emergency knife when I worked at a climbing wall. It was there to cut a harness or potentially even a rope in the event of extreme emergency, but it was/is also good to have in case of a car accident or something (window breaker and seat belt cutter). I'm thankful that I've never had to use it. And that's what a lot of my gear is for. Things I want to have ready to use, while hoping I never do.

Emergency knife This isn't the one I actually have, but it's similar enough. You can find this same design in a multitude of places, at all different price points.

Normal use I also have a cheap little $6 Ozark Trail one that I've used for around 12 years or so. Long as you care for your knife, it will last and serve you well. You don't have to have a top-of-the-line one. I do greatly prefer the single-hand operation ones, though. They have the little pin near the base of the blade so that you can just slide it open with your thumb. And I usually prefer the liner lock, which allows you to unlock the blade with your thumb, and close it with your forefinger. With enough regular use, it all becomes one swift motion that you don't even think about

Swiss army knife I was gifted mine and likely wouldn't have bought it on my own, but I found myself very appreciative of it and think it's worth the money. If mine gets lost, broken, or whatever, I'll likely buy a replacement.

Bonus! Gerber multitool This has been on my key ring for 6 years. I use it almost daily, and think it is probably one of the best EDC purchases I have ever made.

A good pen is a must. Something solid and comfortable that fits you, and you like the way it writes. A flashlight is always useful-I would recommend something like a Thrunite Ti4 or Ti5. After that, I would suggest some kind of pocket knife/multitool if you can-in my area I could carry multiple and noone would bat an eye, but if you are in an area where knives are a not allowed, try something along the lines of a SOG Powerlock or Leatherman Style

Those are what I would consider the basics, after that its really up to you. A nice watch would not be remiss, or a decent wallet. When I was in highschool, I carried a dry-erase marker that got used a lot. Another thing would be a nice high capacity USB drive, to store files on, or programs. Make sure you back it up though if you are going to use it for any school projects.

If you have training(or even if you dont) it would be a good idea to get a first aid kit, and maybe pocket mask to through in your backpack, along with a roll of duct tape.

Lastly, The one thing that I would suggest would be a good book. You never know when you might be waiting awhile, done work, in a boring assembly, etc. where a good book is nice to have. I always had one in a cargo pocket all through school.

I have the Compact Milwaukee and am not a fan; the blade comes loose all the time, especially when doing things like cutting drywall or removing wire insulation. I have used the Fastback Milwaukee though with good results, it’s just a lot bigger and doesn’t feel as good in the hands. I’ve owned 1 of the Compact, 0 of the Fastback.

The Klein pocket knife looking one is garbage for doing actual work with. I’ve owned 1 of these.

I have a SOG Flash 2 w/ serrations that I love but it’s my EDC and doesn’t live in my tool bag. Super sharp and the serrations slice though sheathing like hot butter. I’ve owned 4 of these.

I have a smaller one, a skelotonized Gerber w/ Lenox blades that I love as well. That one does live in my tool bag and is used all the time. The Lenox gold blades are amazing. I’ve owned 1 of these.

Milwaukee Compact

Milwaukee Fastback

Klein Electricians Knife

Sog Flash II

Gerber EAB Lite

Not 'cheap' but these are the cheapest one's I'd get. You won't regret having decent steel and they'll last you a lifetime (even if you 'upgrade' later).
https://smile.amazon.com/Stanley-16-791-Sweetheart-Socket-Chisel/dp/B004TK0IG8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483251855&sr=8-1&keywords=stanley+sweetheart+chisels

Good luck.

If they're too expensive, I'd second the Narex stuff. I have a set of their mortising chisels...while they don't hold a candle to the Lie-Nielsen stuff...they do work well and are cheap. Personally, I'd rather have (1) 1/2" Lie Nielsen mortising chisel instead of the Narex set. Unfortunately you need at least 2-3 bench chisels.

Really, the most important thing with chisels (cheap and/or fancy) is to sharpen them regularly. . . yes it's a chore but your work will be better. Get good sharpening stones (shapton or a reputable waterstone set) and you'll be set with even the cheapest chisels (just have to sharpen a bit more often).

Happy New Year!

$150 is plenty of budget for a good knife. This one is just slightly over that budget but will last you the rest of your life. It's kind of my dream survival knife.

The Fallkniven F1 is very popular as well and right in your price range.

Currently I use this knife which is also very good.

If you want to go a little less expensive still, Becker makes some good ones such as the Bk16. I know the Becker doesn't look anything like "hand made", but I have the BK2- I used paint remover to take the black coating off the blade, replaced the plastic handles with micarta and stained it to look more like wood, and built a leather sheath for it. It's a beautiful knife now. Too bad it's so goddamn heavy.

You could also go with something like the Mora bushcraft. I have that one also, very decent knife.

You could even just get a regular Mora or a Condor bushlore which are even more economical options.

I had acceptable but less than ideal performance with WiFi too. I had range issues on 5 GHZ wireless N and interference issues on 2.4 N (which I couldn't really attribute to anything in particular - it's just a crowded frequency). My house isn't all that big either (1750 sq ft).

I ran Cat5E. It was pretty easy even though it was my first time. I just watched a couple YouTube videos on making Cat5E and bought a crimper, RJ45 connectors, and a big box of cable from Amazon (they have different sizes so just determine how much you would need). I ran and terminated speaker wire, coax for my antenna in the attic, and the networking cable all in one afternoon. If you're considering going that route I would encourage you to do it, it isn't difficult with a decent crimper. Just watch a couple people do it on YouTube and print out a wiring diagram when you're terminating the cables. Make a couple short practice cables before trying to terminate on the cable you ran in the attic.

Before my computer and router were at opposite sides of the house and I was getting speed tests of ~20 MBit down; now with the cable I get ~120 MBit down. I have an Asus router on each side of the house so wireless coverage is excellent as well.

First off, many of these things are intentionally cheap, because I do tend to break and/or lose things, so... Here goes.
All have Amazon links, because that was what was easiest.


Jewelry:

• Elder Scrolls Imperial symbol arrowhead necklace - I made this from scrap a while ago for a basic metal-arts class.
  
  
• Kris knife necklace - Got this at a Renaissance Fest last year, and I also like wearing it.
  
  
• UP by Jawbone (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A17IAO0) - Really great sleep tracker, plug-and-sync
  
• Fitbit Flex (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BGO0Q9O) - The de-facto fitness tracker, wireless sync
  
  
• Pebble watch (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BKEQBI0) - Simple smartwatch
  
  
  Right front pocket:
  
  
• Frame-lock box cutter (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0016KHW2W) - Was using a frame-lock knife, to open boxes. Replaced it with this, been happy since.
  
  
• Precise V5 RT (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E6A9M8) - My favorite ball-point pen. Looking forward to the arrival of a Lamy Al-Star fountain pen.
  
  
• Zebra M301 0.5mm (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BLC7FG) - Great intro engineering pencils.
  
  
• Galaxy S5
  
  
• Chapstick
  
  
• Pentel plastic eraser (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001Q4HQVU) - For the larger-than-one-character mistakes.
  
  
  Left front pocket:
  
  
• 4-in-1 screwdriver (similar to http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014KMDZ0) - Thin profile screwdriver. Awesome. Clips away in a corner and you can forget about it until you need it.
  
  
• Streamlight MicroStream (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00143JZ08) - Tiny little flashlight, amazing little clip. Clip it in a corner and forget it until you need it.
  
  
• Mighty Wallet (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036FN60W) - I keep it relatively thin in contents, and it's amazingly thin by itself.
  
  
• Sennheiser CX300IIs (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EZYMF4) - Some of the best little cheap earbuds. I have over-the-ears for desk-work, but these can go with me easily.
  
  
• Yubikey Neo (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LX8KZZ8) - For my 2FA needs, both on the phone and PC. I use it with LastPass.
  
  
• Spare AAA Battery
  
  
• 12" baton (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MHDLF8E) - For self defense, since I stopped carrying a knife, and it's more actually useful for defense than my old knife was anyway.
  
  
  Wallet highlights:
  
  
• Band-aids - I chew my cuticles and pick at scabs. Bad habit. Nice to have these around.
  
  
• Bottle opener - Got this as swag from a startup I used to work for.
  
• Sewing kit - For emergency mending
  
  
• Guitar picks (I like http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002D0CGC)
  
  
• Safety pins
  
  
• Handcuff key
  
  
• Handcuff shim - Nice when handcuffs aren't double-locked; sometimes easier to manipulate than the keys.
  
  
  Left back pocket:
  
  
• Field Notes graph-ruled notebook (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006CQT2KU) - reasonably durable, cheap notebooks.
  
  
  Not shown:
  
  
• Keysmart Extended key holder (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JXQQNC6) - Nice to keep my work keys from jangling around
  
  
• Car keys

Seriously consider an inexpensive Mora or two (I'd recommend the Mora 120 or Mora 122 or both) as a great starting place.

You won't know what you want until you noodle around a bit, so skip buying a great custom carving knife (though when you do, let me recommend Deepwoods Ventures as another solid option).

Play around with an inexpensive knife or two and figure out all the usual questions. What handle makes you happy? Are you a chip carver? What blade shape makes you happy? Is relief carving really your thing? Etc.

Also, don't let some random Internet nut try to tell you there are any hard and fast rules to how you should spend your time.

I have the regular EAB,

https://www.amazon.com/Gerber-EAB-Pocket-Knife-22-41830/dp/B0016KHW2W

The design is ultra simplistic and really attractive. I am a trim carpenter so I don't usually wear a tool belt, (I can't have tools accidentally hitting cabinets) so this knife always rides in the little pocket of my jeans without ever being felt. If I need to do excessive cutting then I will bring a larger knife but for the smaller random tasks having a knife on you all the time is necessary and this does that perfectly. Holds the blades tight with a screw and is surprisingly not bad to open one handed. It's nearly perfectly flat and looks like a luggage tag. If the practicality isn't enough for you I challenge you to find a more attractive utility knife.

26ga kanthal

Cotton

Screwdriver set

Ohm reader

Velocity clone by tobecco

Pliers

That's about $60 bucks after shipping, and gets you pretty much everything you need.

You can opt for higher quality things. There's some great coil jig sets out there for about $15, which basically make coils for you. Theres higher quality cotton, better kanthal but this is a good basic setup. It's what I use, at least.

You'll see a lot of people vouching for the velocity clone, its a great RDA with a lot of room to build on.

As far as what mod you want? That's tough. That's a whole other conversation. I can tell you what I use, and what I like about them, though.

I use a Sigelli 150 TC, it's a dual 18650 box mod with temp control, I have two Samsung 25r's that have been "married" since I got them, and live in my mod. My Velocity usually sits on top of it. I use this set up at home, and try new builds on it.

My on the go set up is a Smok xcube mini box mod single 18650, with a royal hunter mini on top. I make sure to build around .3 to .4 on this set up, and stay in a safe range for the single battery. Using an online ohms law calculator, I'm vaping a .38 build at 40 watts. Which is drawing 10a from my battery that's rated for 20a.

I would second the Stanley Sweetheart chisels as a good, affordable set of chisels. I think they perform great, feel good in the hand, and even look like a quality tool. Amazon has a great deal on the set of four most commonly used sizes.

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-16-791-Sweetheart-Socket-Chisel/dp/B004TK0IG8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482187654&sr=8-1&keywords=stanley+chisels

Do not panic. You will want to get a book like this one of how to do things around the house. I've been using the big orange one from Home Depot for well over 20 years; how to change the wax toilet ring hasn't changed, but there's a lot of newer things out there. Now why the heck am I recommending a dead-tree resource? Because you might not have terrific internet access when Something Bad happens. Many of these books have a little index of "how hard is this job" so you'll have a good idea up front whether it's something you can do or something you should call a pro about. They also usually have a materials list, which will hopefully help with the "seems like every repair requires at least 3 trips to Lowes" problem.

You will also want a fairly basic toolset right now. Maybe something like this. I have one from Harbour Freight that is serviceable but not terrific (ex got the tools in the most recent divorce, didn't want the book). There's also a lot to be said for having a good rechargeable electric screwdriver, but that can wait. Don't cheap out on this if you get one, be prepared to spend at least $50.

You also might try talking to the maintenance guy at your complex if you think he does a good job and is trustworthy (my inner former apartment manager is laughing about the odds of this being true). Tell him you're buying a house and hey, if I get in over my head can I pay you to do a little side work (and if so, what's your number)?

I really like my mora with the fire steel on the sheath. Amazon shows its for $65 now, but I think it's cheaper at times. Mine was a gift for Christmas that a buddy got me and I think it was on a great sale. Super sharp, thick enough blade for prepping fire wood and shaving kindling.

I ended up getting a tek-lok from blade tech to attach the knife to my belt more securely.

Of course the $15 moras are a super great deal too. Heck, get a thicker one for your fire wood needs and a smaller one for your carving desires.

Morakniv Bushcraft Carbon Steel Survival Knife with Fire Starter and Sheath, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BFI8TOA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_pdW9wbVAXQSEE

There is something oddly satisfying about owning tools, and acquiring them. A lot of people that already possess a large set of tools would actually enjoy being in your position: starting all over again!

I do think that many people start out a little too strong, trying to anticipate all their needs and buying tools on those perceptions. Often the result are many unused/under utilized tools...when the money could have been spent better elsewhere. The best way IMHO is to acquire a basic starter set...and then acquire tools one or two at a time as the needs arise.

I would also resist the temptation to buy top quality tools (some will take exception to this) at the accompanying high prices. The truth is that most homeowners/DIY people are really not that hard on tools. Moderate quality tools will often last a lifetime. I still own and use a low end socket set I bought 45 years ago. A homeowner has no need to drop a bundle on a SnapOn socket set or high end Bosch power tools.

Good Luck, and have fun!

Read through the links before you add anything to your cart, the tools at the top are what I personally use and can vouch for, the tools at the bottom are in kits and case save you some money if you only do this once in a while but I can't vouch for the quality.

Crimping tool(17$):

TRENDnet 8P/RJ-45 and 6P/RJ-12, RJ-11 Crimp, Cut, and Strip Tool, TC-CT68 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZK4G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_piZVAbZZVWPM7

Has a built in perfect cut wire strippers

Connectors(9$):

Cybertech Cat6, Cat5e RJ-45 8P8C Ethernet Modular Crimp Connectors Plugs Pack of 100 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LG6DQUI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YiZVAb72959BY

Cat5e Cable(25$) (200ft, pre-made but you can clip and make your own out of it)

200FT Feet CAT5 Cat5e Ethernet Patch Cable - RJ45 Computer Networking Wire Cord (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071XBHM6Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RkZVAbZ8D2F00

The cable is actually not that good of a deal because you can get 1000ft for 50$ without any ends, but I was aiming for sub 50$.

Total cost: 51$

Additional extras I'd recommend:

Cable tester(8$) tests if the cables and connections you made are good. A great investment for beginners and pros)

Zoostliss Network Cable Tester RJ45 RJ11 RJ12 UTP LAN Cable Tester Networking Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZYXN63/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tnZVAb616Y59H

Cable boots(6$) protect your cable ends from having the tips broken and looks cleaner IMO


uxcell 100 Pcs Soft Plastic Ethernet RJ45 Cable Connector Boots Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K82RNX2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qoZVAb54MHXCJ


They also have combo kits like this that exist, I can't speak to their quality but the tools are simple tools so this may save you some scratch

>UbiGear Cable Tester +Crimp Crimper +100 RJ45 CAT5 CAT5e Connector Plug Network Tool Kits (Crimper315) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008UY5WL0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hqZVAb8RM9GVK

Has the tester and everything, includes a wire stripper which is nice

>Maxmoral 7 in 1 Cable Tester + Crimp Crimper + Wire Stripper + 50 RJ45 CAT5 CAT5e Connector Plug + 100 Cable Ties + 100 Cable Cord Holder Clips + 2 Ethernet Connector Network Tool Kits https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J7S5X6Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VrZVAb10QP91E

Same deal, has boots though.

Set wear hot hands are the best insulated work gloves I've ever used. You can hold something 400 degrees for a good 10-15 seconds before you start to feel the heat. It's a real leather too, which lasts longer.

If you're going to the UFT you might as well go for the full ratcheting version rather than ape ding that money twice. Personally I don't care for the UFT I use a Gator Grip socket on a short handled rachet with a swiveling head. Then I also carry a Mega Combo Wrench from The Light Source on my keyring.

Most screw drivers you find won't have a tether hole, I assume because you use them in a circular motion. For an all purpose carry look for a XX in 1, that has multiple bits all in one screwdriver. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_JsPOCbM5B9DK8 something like this.

Is also recommend looking at multi tools, I use a Gerber Center Drive because it has a bit driver to use real screw bits and I like it a lot.

Another good gift idea are flashlights. I'm always on the lookout for the next great flashlight.

The new stanley sweethearts are also worth looking into IMO https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-16-791-Sweetheart-Socket-Chisel/dp/B004TK0IG8

Here are some other brands to look at: http://www.startwoodworking.com/sites/default/files/tool-test-bench-chisels.pdf

Keep in mind that with higher priced chisels you're often paying for it being closer to set up out of the box, and quality of the steel in terms of holding and edge vs ease of sharpening.

Second candleww that Ashley Iles are really sweet. Watch how quickly Dave Barron sets one up for use: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ENqMrvsR3q8

Lastly, I've seen vintage chisels perform just as well as new premium chisels once they are restored. Brands like Butcher, Witherby, Berg, Stanley are great. There are lots of videos on restoring chisels out there, and it isn't hard to do.

WHY ARE THERE NO DIRECTIONS ON WHAT TO DO?!??! I NEED DIRECTIONS AND HELP. HOLD ME.

In all seriousness, I have had this on my wishlist the longest. I have been of great fortune to either not have tools, or have friends, but now that it's just my fiancee and I, I have no tools, no friends (okay, no friends that live close enough or with me that have tools), and no skills. Fixing things/working on things is quite a comical challenge. When I had to put nails in the desk I built for my fiancee, I used the only screwdriver that I own to get it in there.

If that's unreasonable, I love socks!!

You and /u/Matronix are both AWESOME for doing these contests. This community makes me so happy :)

I can't comment on the ones in your pic, but I bought the ones above it (you can just barely see the bottom of them) and it was not worth the $10 or whatever I spent. They are softer metal and now essentially garbage for me. I next bought the Stanley Sweetheart 4 piece set for $75 and they are outstanding. (If that's too much for you FWW says these are really good for like $40.) So like I said, can't comment on these but in general, with tools, you pay for what you get. I'd rather spend $75 on something that will last my lifetime than $1 on something that will cost me time to replace, will fail when I need it, doesn't do the job quite as well.

get something like this, with the drills maybe in your local measurements.

then a set of files like this or a complete set like that. than this strange substance.

consider this in case he gets funny. some collection of magnets like those. prices vary drasticly, again go for local measurement system. he will probably need 1x1mm, 2x1mm, 3x2mm. just check if the drills you got and the magnets fit size wise and the magnets have to be neodynium.

​

i am not very familar with skaven so i cant give much advice on models but i assume this one will make him happy. it qualifizes for "anything really cool", can be used to build different things he might like and you can use the stuff mentioned above to fill out the rest of the budget if you like.

​

this overrated book vendor in the links was just used as example of product and quality and prizes of products will vary drastically. with this stuff you cant make too much wrong with going cheap.

somebody from your country might offer you a good vendor. i cant really suggest specific products since they maybe are not availlable where you are from.

​

my most sincere condolences that you lost your partner to plastic crack :(

Mini saws are pretty helpful. I bought the Olfa handle and mini saw set from Hlj. Pin vices are pretty similar but one with different size bit holders is nice for tiny wire bits or more conventional size drill bits. [This](In-tool-home Precision Pin Vise Model Hand Drill Set with Twist Drill Bits Set of 11 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010BV7190/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_76PPzbE7Y2ZTF) is pretty much what I have and works great. It's not expensive, but I've got a super cheap pin vise I bought and kind of hate so I don't recommend going ultra cheap.

What a great thing to do! Thanks for all the effort you put in to helping people find great tools.

I would love this:

https://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-Sidekick-Multi-Tool-Stainless-Sheath/dp/B005DI2QTC/ref=sr_1_4?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1493777113&sr=1-4&keywords=Leatherman

Good luck to everyone!

>Between 3000K and 4000K, if growing a small tomato bush, which would you go for?

I'm conflicted actually.

Probably the 4000k, and this is the rational: The increased blue light will reduce stretching in plant, at lower light levels.

Why I'm conflicted is I know 3000k works fine, I like the warm light/ find it relaxing, and red spectrum helps with flowering (important in a tomato plant).

Ultimately it might come down to what had more lux or was on sale that day XD !

>is the PAR38 shape all that important

PAR (parabolic aluminized reflector) kind of is important, the reflector bit in particular, as it means there is more light going in the right direction and reaching the plant. Light intensity is more important than exact spectrum.

>could I go for a regular globe shape?

Yeah you could, just put it in a reflector.

Got a blade material are you looking for? (stainless steel or carbon)

Blade profile? (drop point, tanto, spear, clip)

Blade grind? (Flat, Saber, Scandinavian, or Hollow)

Off the top of my head:

Becker BK16 - flat 1095Cro-Van

Esee Camp Lore PR-4 - Saber 1095

Esee 4P - flat 1095

Esee Izula - flat 1095

Morakniv Bush Crafter - Scandinavian 1095

Morakniv Garberg - Scandinavian 14C28N

Cold Steel Master Hunter - Flat VG1 in San Mai

​

FYI The ESEE brand has perhaps the best lifetime warranty of fixed blades. Return and they will replace with no questions asked policy. It is also transferable so they do tend to keep their value over time. Tactical Intent is a verified seller on amazon. At that price range you can get a pretty great knife.

Hope this helps!

I'll have to go with Gerber folding utility knife, this small as possible kind:

http://www.amazon.com/Gerber-31-000345-E-A-B-Pocket-Knife/dp/B002RILCLY/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_23

The one I have is slightly different with G10 handle, but they don't make it anymore... but I don't think it matters. Couple nice things about this: It is just so small/light and the clip works very well. I can kinda put it near the top of my pocket and I never know its there. And more importantly it takes normal razor blades, so I can buy a 50 pack and every other week or so put in a new blade. This is a huge both because I always have a super sharp blade that makes cutting thing so enjoyable, and because unlike having a fancy knife, I don't worry about treating the blade like crap. I don't care if it dulls. I've got some nice knives and used to carry one all the time but I was so careful with them.

Ya I had the same problem and ended up putting them on top of a shoebox to get them closer. I would definitely recommend getting them closer. Any idea what color temperature those bulbs are? I've read you want them around 5000k or above, and if they are really low, soft white bulbs they can cause stretching.
I don't know how much of a budget you are on, but if they continue to stretch too badly you could always supplement them with cool white 26 watt cfl lights. I ended up buying these things from Walmart: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007RKKEHA?pc_redir=1395095763&robot_redir=1
And I'm having a lot of success with them.
By the way anytime you have questions feel free to PM me and I can try to help. I love this stuff haha.

Thanks for the info.

I feel I'm treading water here flip flopping back and forth.

So this is what I have come up with.

Sharpening:

https://www.amazon.com/DMT-D6EF-Dia-.../dp/B000GD3V3E
and
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PVXRJ0..._ZkHazb3N619JN

Chisels:

Stanley 16-791 Sweetheart 750 Series Socket Chisel Set, Brown, 4 - Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004TK0IG8..._MlHazbXRPYNVR

Included the 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and 1", add the 3/8" in separate.


That or the Narex set of 4 and the 5/8 from LV.

For some reason the Narex set looks more "robust" as the hornbeam handle on the sweetheart seems fragile...but after looking around more everyone says the sweetheart chisels are better than the narex. They seem to be identical to the ones on LV as on amazon for 30% less.

I love my small forest axe. Best survival purchase i've made. I wouldn't stray from that idea, unless you decide to refurbish an antique hatchet. I've seen people fix up sixty year old plumb scout hatchets to gransfors quality.

For knives, i use my moraknive survival and the condor bushlore. The bushlore a hardy-ass knife and it's only about thirty bucks. I use the mora regularly. That particular one is what i have, i picked it up based on the thickness of the blade, but they have far cheaper ones if you don't want to throw down that much. I believe you can get an almost identicle knife without the firesteel for around 15 bucks cheaper.
Good Review on the bushlore

Machete-wise, i love my Condor Parang. It's giant, it sharpens well, it holds an edge, and it's tough as nails. The thing is 1/4 inch thick. It's big. It also comes with a sexy leather sheath of equally high quality and durability.
I've also played around with the full size bear grylls Parang by gerber. Thing cuts like you wouldn't believe, with great weight length and balance. I use the condor, my survival bud uses the gerber. They're about equal in different ways.

I'm a believer in quality. All the stuff I have is going to last until the ends of the Earth.

Anyway...

You can get an All-In-One kit like Kobalt, or Stanley or Craftsman, but the quality doesn't seem there these days. They might be decent so long as you aren't trying to rebuild an aircraft carrier or something, though.

I'd look at this: https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-94-248-65-Piece-Homeowners-Tool/dp/B000UHMITE

Get the one with the screwdrivers and wrench. It's $57 for everything you'll likely need. My old Stanley stuff is okay, but I can't speak to the new stuff.

Another alternative is buying top quality individual tools and piecing together your own kit, but the prices can be steep.

I use Wera Kraftform Kompakt screwdriver. It has the bits in the handle. Usually, these are junk, but this one is very sturdy. Also, the shaft can be used in a drill. The bits are top quality and don't get spun out. $45.

You'll still want a regular set of screwdrivers because the one I mentioned earlier has a detach bit head and a short shank so it can't fit everywhere. Wera Classic 6-set $25.

For pliers, I get Channellock. They are also very sturdy and don't ruin bolt heads or make themselves hard to use from sloppy fit or slipping around. Crescent wrench $25. Regular pliers $11, needle nose pliers $17.

Plastic Stack On tool box $13. Total $136. Add a hammer and a tape rule and a small level for another $25 and you'll be set for a while. These tools will last forever. Also, a Makita cordless drill at some point. Mine is really powerful and fits my hand and was only $100.

Happy happy cake day
1 Cake or birthday related
2 Simon Pegg
3 A book you are eager to read
4 Eating Utensils
5 Animal
6 Purple.... NSFW
7 A game
8 A guilty pleasure
9 A Tool
10 Something from your childhood
11 An organizational item
12 Hobby-for ghost hunting
13 Nerdy/ Geeky
14 Something Natural
15 Green
16 Something you wear
17 Funny
18 Beads, Bees or Beans
19 Gardening
20 Your absolute favorite item on your wish list no matter the price.

Item from your high priority wish list...these are cool

Happy cakeday! Thank you so much for the contest!

Klein Tools 92906 ProPack 6 Apprentice Tool Set for Trade Professionals (6-Piece) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EKONLY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Qm5EAbQVA3JFH

That’s a good deal. It has lineman pliers, diagonal cutters, needle nose, wire strippers, and flat/ Phillips screwdrivers.

Screwdriver and Nut Driver 11-in-1 Multi Tool, Cushion Grip Handle, Industrial Strength Bits Klein Tools 32500 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yp5EAbSKE4D2A

This is a good all purpose screwdriver to carry around

Klein Tools NCVT-2 Dual Range Non-Contact Voltage Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FXJOQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qq5EAbTTZ8GYW

This is a non contact voltage tester and it might just save you some pain/your life

Channellock 440 12-Inch Tongue and Groove Plier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SBCU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xr5EAbWNKDP5C

You should probably get 2 pairs of these. It’ll help you twist on couplings and stuff

Stanley 33-725 25-Feet FatMax Tape Measure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002PV66/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Xs5EAbGVWXZDV

A lot of people like these tape measures for their larger claws

Klein Tools 98002BT Bottle Opener https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00093GENU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4u5EAb52FZ742

This will help for when you go home

These are some of the best entry-level options:

• Narex Classic Bevel Edge
  
• Woodriver
  
• Stanley 750
  
  If you want to spend a small amount more and get chisels for life, consider these. They are shockingly inexpensive for how good they are.
  
  You don't need to go to L-N/Veritas/Blue Spruce and spend $75+ apiece on the world's greatest chisels to get good results. You can cut perfect dovetails with any of these.
  
  For dovetails, I mostly use 1/4", 1/2" and 3/4". On smaller pieces, sometimes just 1/4" and 1/2". For casework, the 3/4" chisel comes out a lot more.
  
  When clearing tail baselines, I like my chisel to be slightly more than half of the length of the baseline. This way, I get the whole thing in two strokes per side, and both strokes have plenty of knife line available for registration.
  
  Also, if you are going for super skinny pins, especially in thin stock, you may need to go smaller than 1/4". If your smallest chisel is 1/4", make sure that when you lay out your dovetails, the pin sockets are at least that wide. If you find yourself bruising the sides of your tails because you don't have room to maneuver, it's a sign that you need a smaller chisel or a larger pin.
  
  It's also useful to have a much wider chisel than 1/2" for paring and strengthening knife lines. Something in the 1"-2" range. This is less dovetailing-specific, but dovetails aren't the only joinery involved in making boxes.
  
  As for other tools:
  
  
• A cutting gauge like this for marking baselines.
  
• A try square or combo square
  
• A dovetail saw. The best bang/$ is this one.
  
• A dovetail marker: make it yourself.
  
• Some means for jointing and thicknessing stock.
  
• A way to hold boards upright while you work on them. You can make a Moxon vise out of scraps and inexpensive hardware.
  
• A saw to remove waste. I use a fret saw most of the time--with a little practice it's quick and efficient. Some people use coping saws. On larger/thicker dovetails (>1" stock), I sometimes use a turning saw.
  

thanks in advance.

here is a link to the bush crafter https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Bushcraft-Carbon-Survival-Starter/dp/B00BFI8TOA

It seems like it should suite my needs well in terms of shape and size. I have one in stainless now that I like. I was looking at blanks and found that you can get a morakniv blank that I could work with, but I'm liking the interest that damascus provides. I'm not really sure what the pros and cons of the material might be for camping and bushcrafting, but I do think it would look cool. I'm thinking I'd do a wooden handle possibly with some brass guards if I'm feeling ambitious.

I use one of these. Super lightweight, small, and uses replaceable blades. It's hardly the best looking knife out there, and I'm considering getting an Opinel, but the EAB is a simple, decent looking, highly effective utility knife. Certain perks to using a utility knife over a "normal" knife: easy to clean, cheap to replace blades, small profile.

Not sure if you already have these clippers yet but I find them pretty convenient when trimming leads.

With decks like that I generally like to use the positive that's furthest away from the negative per coil, I find it easier to keep the coil centered and accessible for trimming. Usually I'd make my adjustments after everything is trimmed.

I'm not telling you to buy anything different but a velocity style deck is really easy to build on for someone new and keep things as even as possible.

This set of Stanley Sweetheart chisels is on sale for $83 which is a really good deal. Normally the chisels run around $30 per unit at a place like rockler. I'd put them a step above chisels like Narex (which aren't "bad" by any shot) but still below a brand like Ashley Isles or Pfeil.

Great set if you're looking to upgrade from something like harbor freight chisels.

That's a fine recommendation. I don't agree - but it's valuable for OP to see different approaches from different redditors.

My whole point is to not spend the extra money on accessories like this.

I'm a big fan of 'buy once, cry once' - but for some people it's valuable to go low budget at first. Especially with accessories like this. As I gained experience - I learned that cheaper/smaller knifes were better for me. So, for example, the 'better' knives I invested in previously now sit in a drawer unused.

Choosing which gear to buy high quality first is complicated. Different ways to approach for sure. I'm recommending to focus on the 'big 4' first, not the accessories.

​

For example - I carry these as my knife and flashlight often:

• Victorinox Swiss Army Classic SD Pocket Knife, $16
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/Victorinox-Swiss-Classic-Pocket-Knife/dp/B00004YVB2
    
• Nitecore Tube Keychain Pocket Flashlight, $10
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-Keychain-Light-Pocket-Flashlight/dp/B00OZJ79R4

First of all: I need 61 comment karma. Would be nice if you could help me!
A Sidekick would be great.
https://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-Sidekick/dp/B005DI2QTC/?tag=parametrek-20
By the way: I realy like the parametrek search. The kind of searching is much better than the one from eBay or Amazon.
Edit: Only 56 comment karma missing. You are awesome!

When I was a field tech, mostly working with structured cabling and networking equipment I took the following along with me, some of these things are no longer needed with VOIP phones though:

• Klein Scissors, great for working with cabling. http://www.amazon.com/Klein-2100-7-Electricians-Scissors-Stripping/dp/B000VL03NC/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_2
  
  
• Klein 11-in-1 screwdriver (I actually had two) http://www.amazon.com/Klein-32500-Screwdriver-Driver-Cushion/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_text_y
  
  
• Harris puncdown tool ( I think fluke took them over though in quality) the little flip out hook is really useful when doing 66 blocks or panels - something like this http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-D914S-10061810-impact-EverSharp/dp/B000GA6QEI/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1377872619&sr=1-2&keywords=harris+punch+down+tool (You can get cheaper here, but I burned through the ideal ones pretty fast. The harris ones seemed to last a while).
  
  
• Multimeter (Fluke makes some nice ones)
  
  
• Cable Tester - this will do phone, coax, cat5/6 and isn't crazy priced. You can buy more remotes for it too: http://www.amazon.com/Test-Um-TP300-Resi-Tester/dp/B000J15CEE/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1377872779&sr=8-7&keywords=test+um+cable+tester
  
  
• Tone and probe kit (sends a signal over a cable and you can use the wand to figure out what cable it is. Killer for unmarked cables. You'll probably want to take some jacks and make up your own adapters too) - http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-PRO3000-Tone-Probe/dp/B000FTADX0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377872864&sr=8-1&keywords=harris+tone
  
  
• Banjo adapter is nice if you don't want to make your own: http://www.amazon.com/Paladin-Tools-1902-Modular-Adapter/dp/B000099O64/ref=pd_sim_indust_13
  
  
• If you have traditional phone lines to deal with, a buttset (or linemans set) isn't a bad thing to have either.
  
  
• Some coax tools (crimper/stripper)
  
  
• A drywall saw
  
  
• A decent tool bag. I used a generic husky one from lowes.
  
  
• A drill (keep the charger in the bag) and a decent bit set
  
  
• A box of random screws and anchors
  
  
• Bigass roll of velcro
  
  
• Double sided tape
  
  
• ALL the connectors (in bulk)
  
  
• Electrical tape
  
  
• Pull string anytime you fish a conduit or a pain in the ass space, leave a string.
  
  
• Various standard hand tools, spackle isn't bad to have and a putty knife, I had a cheap soldering iron and some basic stuff for it too. Sharpies (a whole pack of them). A level, a tape measure.
  
  
• A label maker! Brother makes a bunch. Label everything!
  
  
• Flashlight. I carried two. One small penlight on myself (streamlight) and one that shared the batteries with my drill.
  
  Obviously this all doesnt go in one bag, but I had mine in my car/truck all the time. It'd be a lot easier in an office.

Oboy, I'm probably the wrong person to ask. However, /u/BriThePiGuy recommends Joe Knows Electronics boxes, and /u/NeoMarxismIsEvil recommends the following:

> I would order some cheap assortment kits from people on aliexpress. These are the sort that come with like 10 of most common values of resistor, capacitor, etc.

> Other stuff:

> - WeMos d1 mini or mini pro
> - small i2c OLED displays
> - small LCD display
> - tacswitches (buttons)
> - SPDT switches
> - 74HC595 and 74HC165 shift registers
> - either bidirectional logic level shifter modules or mosfets and resistors needed to make them
> - 7 segment led displays (individual)
> - 8x8 led matrices
> - various environmental and physics sensors (often come as a kit of 20+ different modules)
> - extra breadboards
> - jumper wires
> - male and female header strips (for modules that lack pins)
> - cheap breadboard power supplies
> - voltage regulators (both LDO ICs and buck converter)
> - possibly some 4xAA or 4xAAA battery holders
> - trim pot assortment

> Those are just ideas. Some things like 7 seg led digits are pretty cheap and worth having a few of but not terribly important if you have a real display of some sort.

I personally like the assortment of bits I got in my Sparkfun Inventor's Kit, but found that I wanted more of the following:

• Jumpers, though it's since been recommended to me that I just use solid-core 22 AWG wire so I bought this wire kit and these automatic strippers
  
• Breadboards, both self-adhesive and solderable, and maybe some mini ones of each type.
  
• LEDs (RGB and single-color)
  
• A good selection of potentiometers and trimpots, both slide and radial, plus knobs for them if applicable
  
• More buttons of varying types, both clicky and quiet momentary ones (here's a quiet button that's nice)
  
• A good multimeter and maybe some extra probes
  
• Some power supplies, both 12v and 5v. Here's one that's supposed to do both simultaneously, but you'll need a molex plug (which Sparkfun inexplicably doesn't carry) unless you want to strip the end. You might also want some barrel jacks, and this cheap extension cable provides the male end.
  
• A variable power supply would probably also be very useful, but I haven't yet invested in one of those so I can't make a recommendation at this time.
  
• A good selection of resistors
  
• Alligator test clips, plus some with pigtails for prototyping on a breadboard with components that won't fit in those little holes
  
• Some heat shrink tubing and a heat gun that you should only use on the lowest setting for this purpose. When selecting heat shrink tubing, pay attention to it's shrink ratio and what size it'll end up being when you're done.
  
• A soldering kit and some solder. Note that all solders aren't created equal but the one I linked is supposed to be decent.
  
• If you get into larger gauge soldering (for home or automotive wiring), a propane torch will be handy, but you can get something like that for $20 with a propane tank at your local hardware store
  
• Some project boxes

No problem.

Kershaw Scallion (Small, assisted opening, steel is not so great)

Kershaw Skyline (good size, G10, nice blade shape, steel can get to a crazy level of sharpness)

Kershaw OSO Sweet (pretty cool assisted opener, great price there on amazon)

Spyderco Tenacious (same decent steel on the OSO Sweet and Byrd, good G10, good blade shape, Spyderco quality, great value)

Byrd Cara2 (Great value, overseas production brings prices way down on all Byrd knives)


Here is one above your price range

And one below your price range

I would suggest never taking photos in full sunlight. It can really change how the color is perceived.

I paint in oils and acrylic, and because I’m cheap I photograph my own work. There’s a technique in photographing indoors, but I prefer to take photos outside on a cloudy day out of direct light. This lessens the chance of having hot spots, and I’ll still probably have to color correct in photoshop as even in that light the sun can photograph the work as too warm or too cool depending on the time of year.

I’m not sure if you’re photographing 2d or 3d work, but the rules are different for each. You could jury-rigg a light diffuser. You can get a couple of these (you may be able to find something like this cheaper at a local hardware store or Walmart), put in a daylight bulb, look for one that’s not warm or cool. You want the light to be in the middle of the spectrum, some hardware stores have lightbulb samples. Then to diffuse the light put white paper or cloth between the bulb and your object. Make sure if your bulb gets hot that it’s not close enough to burn your diffuser. I suggest vellum, or plain white paper, or a very thin white sheet. You are just looking to make the shadow less harsh, and you want two lights because you want the light on either side of your object. For the background use something neutral. If your work is three dimensional you’ll want to curve the background. This video has instructions https://youtu.be/Vz-3hKfgs5I

It’s up to you to represent your work accurately to the buyer. If you keep getting this complaint I would suggest you change how you photograph your work, and not blame the customer for not reading your disclaimer. Besides you could be losing sales because potential customers won’t buy because they can’t be sure of what they’re getting.

Good luck.

Nice - you'll be glad to have that variety of tips, depending on what you are working on! If you have any spare Christmas money, I'd recommend picking up one of these self-adjusting wire strippers - it sort of matches your color scheme too! And if you do a lot of de-soldering (anything with lots of headers or through-hole IC sockets), a desoldering iron can save a ton of time compared to your solder wick and desoldering pump.

A few other things that I've found useful (mostly repairing electronic keyboards / synthesizers, although I'm hoping to get more into Arduino / Pi soon):

Hakko wire cutter

Helping hand

Hemostat / Forceps

Digital multimeter with audible continuity tester

You would be better off making your own. I've found that a lot of the sets are cheap.

Here's my take on it.

1.Cable tester:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d
/B000P1OA1O?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1412645606&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

Simple cat5 tester, cheap and works decently.

2. Cable stripper:

Here I've given two options, one is a spinning stripper made for things like taking the jacket off cat5, the second is a more of an electrical stripper for a bunch of gauges of wire with cutters at the back side. If your comfortable with it you can use the cutters to strip just about anything.

2.a http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0099DIV4G?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1412645735&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

2.b. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00080DPNQ?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1412645735&sr=8-12#ref=mp_s_a_1_12

3.punchdown tool :
If your in a spot where you get to do punchdowns it's nice to have, they are cheap and work well,

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KMFDZ0?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1412646040&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

4. Cat 5 ends:
Always keep plenty of these, a bag of them is cheap and you will be glad you have them.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003M5BIII?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1412646222&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

5: crimper:

Never underestimate a good crimper. I have had no luck with the cutting portion of them but that's why I have other tools.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000AZK4G?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1412646393&sr=8-2#ref=mp_s_a_1_2

6. #2 philps head.
I like ratcheting screw drivers with multiple heads but this is easily the most used screwdriver in my set.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NNK9MS?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1412646575&sr=8-5#ref=mp_s_a_1_5

The flat head out of this set is also nice, depending on your bag keep them all handy.


Everything beyond this point is optional or situational.

8. Power supply tester: if you do any sort of computer repair these are very handy to hold on to.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001MKCALY?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1412646902&sr=8-3#ref=mp_s_a_1_3

9. Tweaker: good for laptop repair or if you deal with any sort of building controllers/ low voltage electrical.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0058I6VNE?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1412647026&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

I also have a similar sized Philips head screw driver but I use it much less frequently.

10. Electrical tape: some people say it's for those who mess up doing electrical, I call it insurance.

11. Linemans: I use mine to crimp chicklets mostly but they come in handy a lot. I couldn't find the exact ones I use b

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000A0S4XK?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1412647275&sr=8-4#ref=mp_s_a_1_4


12: a bag:
Personally, I use an old back pack. I find its a lot easier to carry that along with a box of cable. This is entirely preference.

These beard socks are funny :)

A cool chamber light.

This awesome survival knife.

This really gorgeous beer glass.

A classic Jacob Bromwell copper flask.

Yeah man, all you do is cut into some cork, super glue in some wire (in this case mine is 15 gauge I think?), find a drill bit that matches said wire and then drill where ever you desire on the mini for mounting. You can find hobby drill bits/vices online pretty easy. Corks I had lying around, wire I got from Hobby Lobby (general arts and crafts store) and my drill stuff I got off Amazon (link https://www.amazon.com/tool-home-Precision-Model-Drill-Twist/dp/B010BV7190/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1510382874&sr=8-3&keywords=hobby+drill&dpID=51x%252B7gNAlgL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch ) EDIT: When I did my Primaris arms, I just drilled out the barrels and the wire fit perfectly in them too.

Do you wrap them around something? And torching the kanthal will help if you find it to be particularly springy. Here is a coil wrapping calculator that will tell you how many wraps you need to reach your desired resistance based on your kanthal gauge and the size of whatever you are wrapping around.

I would suggest investing in a set of screwdrivers like these to wrap on. They are super cheap and wrapping with them is super easy.

Yuppers! Amazon has the best price for stanley sweetheart chisels. The 4 piece is plenty: http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-16-791-Sweetheart-Socket-Chisel/dp/B004TK0IG8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453931261&sr=8-1&keywords=stanley+sweetheart+750

The 24" K-body revo clamps should be excellent size for most of your projects (in addition to couple of 6" clamps). http://www.homedepot.com/p/BESSEY-24-in-K-Body-REVO-Parallel-Clamp-with-Composite-Plastic-Handle-and-3-3-4-in-Throat-Depth-KR3-524/204986215

Ohh...consumables are good from home depot also. Such as sand paper.

I can almost guarantee this is cable-related, especially given the intermittent nature of the issue. First, make sure the cable isn't loose, and try to push the cables into the connectors a bit. If this doesn't fix your issue, you will need to fix the cable.

A cat5 cable is comprised of four twisted pairs, a total of 8 little
wires. Somewhere in those 20m, one of those wires is cut or damaged.

It is most likely to be at the tip where the RJ45 connector (clear piece) attaches, and if the cable is run through the floors, you better hope this is the case.

Figure out what order the cables go into the connector by looking at them. They are identified with pairs of colours, as shown here

The connector will most likely look like this

Notice that there are two distinct standards. It's important that you use the same standard when re-crimping the cables on both ends.

You can simply cut about 10cm off each end, and obtain a crimper tool to reattach new connectors.

To use the crimper, insert the ends of the cables into the slots in the "empty" connectors, and then press down with the crimper to lock them into place. It's not very difficult, but you need to decide if it's worth your time and effort.

If the break in the cable is in the middle (unlikely, but possible) you're looking at ripping out the cable and running a whole new one. I don't know how exactly the cable is run, if it comes through a plate in the wall, or if it's just a cat5 cable shoved through a hole drilled in the wall, but either way replacing it is going to be pretty expensive unless you do it yourself. I would personally recommend doing this professionally, and getting two "plugs" installed in the walls.

edit: If you know any computer geeks who might know how to do this, or who already have a crimper, invite them over for a beer or something it'll take them 5 minutes

edit2: If you live in Montreal i have the day off and like beer

Make sure you look up how to attach the cable ends to the cables. There are 8 wires in the cable and they're color coded. You have to put them in the correct order or they won't work. [Technically, the actual color order doesn't matter, but they have to be consistent.]

Might not be worth it for a one-time job, but a cable tester like:
http://www.amazon.com/HDE-HDE-H11-Network-Cable-Tester/dp/B000P1OA1O
... is handy to check your work before it drives you insane. You plug in the remote to one end and the base to the other and it lights up if you have a connection or shows mismatches. When you're done, you can test cables using the base. Definitely worth the $5 since now you can make custom length ethernet cables for a fraction of the cost you can buy them at the store for.

You have to decide if you want to put plug ends on (like the end of an ethernet cable) which will plug straight into your device or receptacles that you mount to the floor/wall in a plate (and then you use a regular cable [that you can now make!] to connect it to your device.)

They both work, the receptacles and plates look nicer than a cable sticking out of the floor.

You'll need a drill and drill bits to put holes in things.
If you're going under, you'll want clips that hold the cable in place, maybe. Zipties work too.

You'll need a crimper, like:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZK4G
You get the wires lined up into the plug and this squeezes the metal contacts down into the wires to hold them and make a connection.

It's totally doable, go for it!

Um, yes, let me find it!

It's super awesome!

Here it is! AND it's super inexpensive! http://www.amazon.com/SE-MT908-Function-Credit-Survival/dp/B000Q06LI4/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1347304826&sr=8-15&keywords=all+in+one+tool+card

Edit: Needs more of these ->!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

To clarify:

A switch will several ethernet ports. One of these is an "uplink" port, and the rest are for your devices.

If you connect the "uplink" port to something that would allow a computer to connect to the internet, it can provide that to everything else plugged into it.

A switch doesn't provide internet access or wireless connectivity on its own.

I would recommend:

• Take the plug out of the keystone
  
• Plug it into the "Uplink" port of a switch. (Many new switches have auto-uplink, which means it doesn't matter)
  
• Cut off the cancerous mess of wires. They're hooked up completely wrong (which is the main reason it got crossposted to /r/cablefail - it definitely belongs.) Just cut back to where you have plastic sheathing again and start fresh.
  
  • For whatever reason they thought they could just hook all the same colors together. That doesn't work. There are a few tricks you can pull with different pairs, but this definitely isn't one of them.
    
• Use an ethernet crimping tool like this to attach RJ-45 jacks like this to the wires, using this wire arrangement.
  
  • You can find these at most larger hardware stores, like Home Depot or Lowes. Look in the electrical wiring sections.
    
  • Don't strip the wires before putting them in the jack. The crimping tool pushes small spikes through the sheathing into the wire.
    
• Plug all the freshly crimped cables into the ethernet ports on the switch.
  
  The only possible reason I can think for this arrangement is if those were supposed to be phone lines, which work completely differently and usually use a different plug. (Many businesses do use RJ45 and cat5 for phones, but they don't do it quite like that)
  
  If you draw out the layout for how your network should work, it should look something like this:
  
  
• Router
  
  • Devices connected directly to router
    
  • Switch, through wall cable
    
    • Wall Jack 1
      
    • Wall Jack 2
      
    • etc.
      

If you don't mind waiting fast tech is great heres a great rda and good mod for $15

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10012340/2088800-tugboat-styled-18650-mechanical-mod-w-rda-atomizer

Also grab an ohm reader there as well for $5

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10010372/1897900-atomizer-resistance-tester-ohm-meter

Here's some kanthal I suggest 26 gauge 25 feet Is about $4

http://lightning-vapes.theshoppad.com/#/product/kanthal-a1-resistance-wire

Also pick up a battery for about $8 or two for $14 (worth having a backup battery) use the coupon "lv15" for 15% off

http://lightning-vapes.theshoppad.com/#/product/samsung-inr-18650-25r-battery

I'd suggest this charger for $12

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0096U26QQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421740585&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=41E7nbJ5btL&ref=plSrch

And these screwdrivers if your local dollar store doesn't have it for $4

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/ol/B00009OYGV/ref=mw_dp_olp?ie=UTF8&condition=all

Roughly under $50 for a good setup in my opinion

I have a bunch of items listed as highest priority. It was a guitar up until I bought one for myself at guitar center. Now I need things like a stand, picks, a strap, etc.

My highest priority item is probably this toolkit which has been on my WL since I joined RAOA. I have no idea why I still haven't just gotten it for myself considering I could have many times over. We have basically no tools in our apartment, so I'm even more useless than normal when it comes to fixing things.

I REALLY need a new 360 controller. I may or may not have shattered mine a while back, and I'm currently playing with it held together by tape, and sometimes a button or two doesn't work. It's really frustrating.

I also have GT6 listed as highest, because it is honestly my favorite gaming franchise of all time, and I love every one of the GT games.

This thing is listed as highest because I would really like to listen to my own music in the car, but don't have an aux cable. I can get one, but I need a special part (because my car stereo is set up REALLY stupid), and it's $120 and comes from the UK. That item is listed as highest priority too, but it's not on amazon.

By the way, you are awesome :D :D

I have and like my swiss card, it isn't really credit card sized IMO, but it has really useful tools, just not that fit in your wallet, I keep a $1.50 card knife in my wallet that comes in handy a lot.

http://www.amazon.com/SE-MT908-Function-Credit-Survival/dp/B000Q06LI4/ref=cm_lmf_tit_3/177-4685031-0787254

That is pretty much exactly what I have, I don't use the blade function often but the wrench, bottle cap opener and saw have all come in handy in a pinch.

I don't normally recommend cheaper products but this one has worked really well.

If your needing more blade oriented card knives then one of these could be recommended:
http://iainsinclair.com/products.php
But if you like the boker card knife that might work, can't speak from experience on those though.

In the spirit of staying buget, you could get a budget bipod that works fine too: http://www.amazon.com/Hunting-Adjustable-Spring-Return-Sniper/dp/B00U27O9TY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1463606745&sr=8-2&keywords=swivel+bipod

The primary arms 4-14 is great. I'd choose the R-Grid over the mil-dot.

http://www.primaryarms.com/pa4-14xffp-r-grid/p/kt-pa4-14xffp-r-grid/

I'd just pair that scope with the accompanying primary arms low rings too.

Get a fat wrench:
http://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Firearms-Accurizing-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0012AXR4S

So you can torque everything to spec including the top rail to action and action screws (action to bottom metal).

Might consider a muzzle brake, rear bag and stock pack too, but see first how your face is sitting on the rifle.

You should be able to lay down on the rifle, close your eyes and basically go to sleep, and then open them and still have a great sight picture. So your 'resting' position on the stock should put you in line with the scope.

Others will chime in with great budget options for break, stock pack, and rear bag. I just always get triad tactical things for my rifles.

all the moras are nice. get a carbon steel mora classic if you just want a base model, or if you don't like the wood handle/traditional look you can grab the mora frost which is cheaper and has a nice and grippy rubber handle. if you wanna spend a bit more cash, they have a line of thicker blades, designed for specific bushcraft use (whatever that means) such as the mora bushcraft black. basically they don't make a bad knife. even if you get the cheapest mora utility you will not be disappointed.

your sog is legit though, i really like it. i've been meaning to add a combo straight/serrated fixed blade to my collection and the seal pup elite really caught my eye. good looking blade for sure.

To start you need 4 things imo. Knife, sharpening stone, wood, and a glove.
I like Morakniv Wood Carving 120 Knife with Laminated Steel Blade, 2.4-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GATX62/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JF87CbW24FV4W
It’s cheap and after many years of carving I still use it.

I use a home made honing strop 80% of the time and a diamond stone the remaining 20% when needed.

I use a lansky extra fine but there are probably better options.

Basswood is the standard carving wood. It’s available from hobby shops and on amazon.

Wear a (clean) leather or knife guard glove on your non dominant hand. It’ll save you a lot of cuts.

The Morakniv Companion seems like a good starting point. Pretty cheap where I'm at ordering from Amazon.

Granted, I have a couple Gerbers. Mostly paraframe folders, and for the price, you're better off with a Chinese Kershaw, like the Oso Sweet

Highly recommend Unifi AP's with a mikrotik controller. Even better if you can leave an old laptop on site for managing the unifi stuff remotely.

A single unifi outdoor model might be a good place to start, then it doesn't need to be located inside the tenants premises-- no one wants to have a tech banging around in their attic to re-align the antenna. They are also very impressive with better range than the enterprise or long range hockey puck units.

Adding additional units if necessary (and the software will be able to tell you unlike other brands/models) is a cinch, the controller software sets them up so that the network is seamless and centrally controllable.

A mikrotik rb2011 would be a good choice for a router. It has 10 ethernet ports which is formidable, and it has lots of horsepower so that you can implement content blocking if necessary to preserver the quality of the network.

http://www.amazon.com/Mikrotik-RB2011L-IN-10-Ethernet-Ports/dp/B008GZ7NEC/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1405127763&sr=1-4&keywords=rb2011

http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UniFI-Outdoor-Access-802-11bgn/dp/B0066DV06I/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1405127813&sr=1-1&keywords=unifi+outdoor

Don't forget CAT5e, RJ-45 connectors, and a crimping tool if you don't have them already:

http://www.amazon.com/Cat5e-Ethernet-Cable-500ft-Cat-5e/dp/B0092THNDW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405127939&sr=8-1&keywords=cat5e

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Tester-Crimper-Connector-Network/dp/B008UY5WL0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405127990&sr=8-1&keywords=rj-45+crimpers

I would recommend buying the Adafruit 200mAh battery, just to avoid Chinese knockoffs.

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Packs-Lithium-3-7v-2000mAh/dp/B0137ITW46/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485110664&sr=8-1&keywords=2000mah+battery

There's a video you can Google pretty easily for replacing the battery. I'd recommend having a small screwdriver set and also angle cutters of some sort, something like https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Stand-off-Construction-21-Degree/dp/B017ODDPNO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485110742&sr=8-1&keywords=angle+cutter though it isn't really necessary, just makes it easier than using needle nose pliers and it is cleaner.

Craftsman Table Saw Model # $150


Shop Fox model #G8826 fence system $275


Freud P410 Premier Fusion 10-Inch 40 Tooth Hi-ATB General Purpose Saw Blade $80


Wilton 15” drill press $100


Parks 12” planer $600 This requires a little road trip

Atlas 6” jointer $150 Model #


Delta 10” bandsaw, Powerkraft radial arm saw and Rockwell contractor table saw $200
I would resell one of the tablesaws Just pick the nicest one and sell the other.


Oneway Multi Gauge $97 This is for setting the jointer perfectly and the dial indicator can be removed to make planer setting jig as described by Bob Vaughan (see youtube) or fine woodworking 107.


Angle block set for machine setup $30


Bessey Bar Clamps $14x3 plus maybe $10x3 for bars Say $75 total


Stanley sweetheart chisel set of 4 $80



This leaves $243 left for misc things like drill bits, planer/jointer knives or sharpening F style clamps a cordless drill, random orbit sander, sand paper ect.

I got him this single knife and this set here . They are good enough to get you started.

For the core, ya I am putting something...interesting in it. My buddy and I are trying to figure out an easy way of hollowing out the middle of our "branches" without damaging the integrity too much. That same buddy has a magnificent red beard, beautifully manicured, so we are going to be pulling some of those off, braiding them, and coring the wand with that. If any material we muggles have contains magical properties, it's that beard.

I boight a cheap hand drill for modeling off amazon ! It’s easier than it sounds tbh !! Patience is key. drilling is easy actually !

This is the one I have :

In-tool-home Precision Pin Vise Model Hand Drill Set with Twist Drill Bits Set of 11 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010BV7190/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SrBJBbRA7ZB78

I would even go one further, and it's something that's without fail for me - A small set of tools. You can buy an "OK" set of tools, in a box set (screwdrivers, ratchet sets, wrenches, etc) for cheap. You don't need to spend $1000 on something, just a basic cheap set. I have one sitting in my car for emergencies, and it's come in handy many times in a pinch! Just found one on amazon for about $35. Super cheap, super handy.

Just stash that kit in a closet or something. Better to always be prepared than to not be!

The Klein 11-in-1 Screwdriver is an amazing companion. The torx bit is perfect for the screws in HP desktops and the phillips bits have good bite.

Otherwise, you pretty much have that I would carry myself. I would add what /u/bitbucket87 mentioned for sure.

I bought a set at my local hardware store. They're the doitbest brand precision screwdrivers. http://www.amazon.com/5-Piece-Best-Precision-Screwdriver-SCREWDRIVER/dp/B000HE89Z2
They've been great for the past few years I've had them. The star versions of those aren't so hot though.. I've ruined 2 of the T5 drivers working on firearms and RC cars. The rest of them have stood up to some pretty serious abuse though.

I've had these before, but they are kind of small to hold onto when turning larger screws: http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-052-6-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00009OYGV/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1393730634&sr=1-2&keywords=Precision+Screwdriver
They work fine though IME.

If you want to buy the best you can get, Klein tools makes a mighty fine set of screwdrivers. They're pretty expensive though. http://www.amazon.com/Klein-85614-Piece-Electronic-Screwdriver/dp/B0076RWZMQ/ref=sr_1_37?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1393730830&sr=1-37&keywords=Precision+Screwdriver

You can crimp ethernet cables quite easily - just need the end pieces and a crimp tool (this kit is GREAT)

Power cables can also be done but are a bit easier then Ethernet or telephone cables as they are just a positive/negative/ground wire into an end....pretty straight forward but I advise getting a cord that is already destroyed and working on it first...duh :P should just be copper inside colored tubes that goes to a specific end...typically red is power spot / grey or black is negative / and a completely different color is for ground - but that is a guess on my part as I've not taken one apart in forever as it is cheaper and faster to just get a different/new one.

Telephone cables are basically the same as Ethernet, just need to know the wire pin layout <-- that link is both RJ11 telephone and RJ45 ethernet layouts and its the same process (obviously need telephone ends to crimp onto it - that link has 50 to a bag).

Most cables are straight forward ESPECIALLY with the internet having the answer to cable layouts and everything :)

EDIT - once you do an ethernet cable crimp job everything else becomes very easy haha.

Nice man, both your kits are pretty solid. I'm at work so I can't be as thorough as I would like but here are a few ideas that stood out.

1/8" Pad: Drop it, cut two panels off your zlite to use as the frame and then just pull them out the pack to use at night to sleep. I did this all summer with my KS50 and it worked great. You'll need to cut a little bit off the width for it to fit, but it's minimal and not noticeable when sleeping.

Headlamps: There are much lighter headlamp options and many prefer flashlights for night hiking to bring the light closer to waist level and elongate the shadows. You can also clip them to a brim of a hat for hands free use around camp. A little thrunite ti3 would be a good bet if you don't plan on much night hiking, or a Nitecore Tip 2017 for night hiking.

Knife: The Victorinox Classic SD only weighs 22grams or if all you need is a knife check out Spyderco Ladybug at 16grams. Avoid amazon for the ladybug, there are counterfeits going around i hear.

FAK: You could likely pair this down, mine only weighs 1.5oz

Houdini P/O: Seems unnecessary with the versalite? But I've never worn the Nano-Air Light Hoody, is the idea that the houdini would provide a breathable wind barrier when used in combination? I know this is a common strategy with fleece.

Kahtoola Micro Spikes: If we end up needing them this year I'm going to try Snowline Chainsen Light. Quite a bit lighter than microspikes.

On a side note, when do you start? I'm heading out on May 18th. Edit: Nevermind...somehow missed this in your post...maybe I'll see you all in Oregon or Washington! I'm targeting a late August finish.

I don't think you are my wife, so I'll make a couple suggestions.

Do you know what kind of a camera he has? Here are a couple possible answers: Xiaomi Yi, Mobius. If he has one of these, he may be happy to upgrade to a GoPro.

What kind of quadcopter does he have? Does he fly fast and low to the ground, or high and slow to take pretty videos? This could help us make recommendations.

Here's a cheap tool that would make a good stocking stuffer: Irwin Industrial Tools 2078300 8-Inch Self-Adjusting Wire Stripper with ProTouch Grips https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OQ21CA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_hKlCwb2TJVW66

Have you ever seen him use a lighter or fire to heat up heat shrink? If he doesn't have a heat gun, that would be a good gift. Here is an example of one:
Wagner 0503008 HT1000 1,200-watt Heat Gun https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004TUCV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_GLlCwbAQPAKS4

Ask the current owner if they will leave the TV mount for you, you can even offer to pay/buy them another one if they decline. With that already in place you could probably lift it yourself, if you get an LED LCD, or find someone to help lift it, no skills required.

Speakers are incredibly easy to hookup, you just cut wire to length, pull the two ends apart a bit, strip the ends, stick it in the holes, and tighten. A youtube video and a few practice strips will make it a breeze in no time even if you've never used tools. You'll need these wire cutters, and optionally these auto-strippers, and some wire.

As far as your setup goes you could get the following, or anything similar:

TV $785 - 50" Samsung LED

Receiver $310 - Denon AVR1913

Subwoofer $280 - Newegg has the Klipsch RW-12D for $280 until 5/22.

L/R speakers ~$300- Polk or Pioneer towers from Newegg

Center ~$150- A matching Polk or Pioneer center from Newegg

Surrounds - none yet; the wiring would require some drilling to conceal, if you have a crawl space going under the floor would probably be your best bet.

Adjust as needed to fit your budget or to get any features you want; pushing closer to $2000 and installing it yourself would be best.

EDIT: I forgot to add that tower speakers just stand on the floor, no mounting required. The center channel will just sit on the top shelf of whatever entertainment center you have under the TV, put it flush with the front edge of that. You will also need a single RCA cable to connect the subwoofer to the receiver, you may have one already, any RCA cable will work, or you can buy a 10ft+ one for ~$8.

Not sure about that one in particular but my friend has one of these and swears by it:

http://www.amazon.com/Klein-32500-Screwdriver-Driver-Cushion/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427291911&sr=8-1&keywords=klein+screwdriver

It's a pretty neat design and is quick to switch the drivers. It's also a Klein so it should be high quality.

Just a simple setup would be, in no particular order:

 

• Vise
  
• AR Tool - I have a powder coated green AR tool, forgot who makes it.
  
• Screwdrivers
  
• Good Lighting - Seriously, a good light source goes a long ways in the ease of building things. I have a drafting lamp very similar to this type.
  
• AR Mat - Useful for putting stuff together (and cleaning of course) your AR on your desk/dinner table, so your wife or SO won't murder you. I have this cleaning mat.
  
• Roll Pin Punches - I used a set of regular punches from Lowe's for a while, i finally got around to getting a set of actual roll pin punches on Amazon recently.
  
• Small Hammer - I got this small 8-ounce hammer on Amazon. It's perfect for use with the roll pin punches.
  
• Mallet - Useful for hitting things without marring up the finish.
  
• Vise Block - I use a Magpul Bev block for work on my lower or upper. Waiting for the next Geissele sale so i can snag a Geissele Super Reaction Rod to replace the Bev block on upper work.
  
• Allen Wrenches - I have this set of 3 hex-torx allen wrenches. Super handy for rails and other mount screws. Might also want a long handle set if you use a hex screw for your pistol grip like i do.
  
• Torque Wrench - I have this Tekton torque wrench for barrels nuts, castle nuts (if you do torque yours, i don't usually), and whatever else needs to be torqued.
  
• Torque Screwdriver Kit - I have this Wheeler Torque Wrench/Screwdriver set, super handy for screws that require a certain torque spec.
  
   
  
  That's what i can think of off the top of my head, you probably won't need all of that if you only plan on building a lower first. It'll be useful down the line to get most of those tools, but i'd go with first:
  
  
• AR tool
  
• Bev Block/Vise Blocks/Reaction Rod
  
• Roll Pin Punches
  
• Vise
  
  If you have Amazon Prime, there's quite a bit of stuff you can get on there, it's where i got most of my tools.
  
   
  
  ^Edit: ^Formatting.

They come in many flavors but I have this. It's a self adjusting or automatic wire stripper. They make life easy stripping normal wire ends but they also allow you to strip mid wire quite easily. The same thing can be accomplished with a normal wire stripper it just takes a little more effort.

Morakniv bushcraft. Great blade, great friction fit sheath, nice tacky handle, plus it comes with a firesteel and sharpening stone built in to the sheath. I have dozens of knives--some waaaay more expensive--but this is my go to.

I have one like that on some plants that aren't succulents and it's going really well. I just stuck some succulents under it too so we'll see how that goes. However, I have most of my succulents under this. It's super cheap, you just need a CFL lightbulb that has a "daylight" color (between 5000k-6500k) and is the equivalent of a 75 or higher watt bulb. Something like this (this is a four pack). You could get two of the one I use, plus light bulbs, for less than the one you linked too. And the clasp on the one I linked to is much stronger and bigger than on the LED light, so it's easier to attach in more places.

Edit to add that the clamp lamp with the reflector has a cord and an on-off switch. The picture makes it look like it's just a reflector and that you need to buy your own cord for the lightbulb.

I've had this box cutter/ knife for a few years and it has held up very well. Gerber has a lifetime warranty that I will probably never have to use. I've owned many pocket knives but this one is hard to beat for quality. Best part about it is that it's under $8 on Amazon with Free Prime shipping.

https://www.amazon.com/Gerber-Lite-Pocket-Knife-31-000345/dp/B002RILCLY

Heres a link to an article that you might find helpful

https://mikatan.goodsmile.info/en/2016/10/03/diy-nendoroid-repairs-part-1-removing-broken-joints/

​

As for the tools you'll need, they can be found here on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010BV7190/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y27JWS3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Good luck :)

2. No. Crimping Tool is used to terminate a cable. A Punch Down Tool is used to terminate a keystone jack/wall plate or patch panels.
   
   
3. If you use an unmanaged switch (which you probably should), yes it's pretty much plug and play.
   
   
4. All the ethernet runs need to plug into the switch, where it is, is up to you. What you've described would work fine. But why not move the modem too while you're at it?! What's stopping you from running the coax from the cable company to said office?! I'm suggesting that you keep all equipment in one place.
   
   
5. That's up to you. This has a hole in the ceiling, wires to the patch panel, then to the switch, then to the router. Or you can get a couple of wall plates. If it's a closet, I'd go with the patch panel.
   
   
6. Any physical obstruction will impair the wifi. Hence I suggest making a couple of runs to the ceiling, one up one downstairs and installing APs. You wifi will never be the same.
   
   
7. Your router does not have enough ports for the runs you're making. Yes, you'll definitely need a switch.

The advantage of using Ubiquiti stuff is the amount of info available: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=ubiquiti+nanostation+ptp

PtP means Point-to-point, which is the kind of link you want to do. You will need some outdoor ethernet cable and a crimp tool + connectors. A simple cable tester would be useful too to make sure the cable is OK.

Also, Ubiquiti uses passive PoE. Plug your injector correctly or it will fry your computer's network card!

Don't hesitate to contact me if you have any more questions!

I still asked for a picture of a set up. what size tank do you have? Ideally you will have 29 gallon tall tank. They are nocturnal so they don't need UVB light. They get their D3 from the repashy food instead. A UVB 2.0 flourescent light can be used for UVB and UVA and it will just make it a little more healthy. you want a basking corner of the tank at 85 F. you want to use a normal light bulb at 40-65 watt to get that temperature. just buy 2 of these they can be bought at home depot, or from amazon. in one of them put the 40-65 watt white light bulb. and another for your fluorescent light.

this website has some good suggestions too, just scroll down to the lighting section.
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/pic/article.cfm?aid=2365

If your basement is colder than 70 F you will probably want to get a red bulb to keep it warmer at night.

With this info you should be able to get your whole lighting set up for about $20

I tried this one, and had to ditch it after a few days. I kept it clipped in my front pocket, and any time I would bend at the hip, or squat, the tip on the but end would poke right into me. Had to take it out of my pocket when I drove. Albeit, I'm real skinny. I loved the action, but I can't carry it. I keep it in my toolbag now.

I've since replaced it with this Gerber. It doesn't hold any blades, and I had to loosen the pivot to be able to flip it open one handed, but the size is awesome. You can use a coin to loosen the blade when you do need to replace it.

Great link. TY

Is there a definitive determination on the legality of something like a Kershaw pocket knife with "SpeedSafe"? Kershaw OSO Sweet

I'll add that I saw Kershaw knives with SpeedSafe at my local Walmart...

Don't fight over any of it. Your freedom is worth 10 snowblowers. Your happiness is worth a dozen tool sets, but, this is a kit I got my wife a few years back. I NEVER use it, so she ALWAYS has what she needs - it's a great start!

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-94-248-65-Piece-Homeowners-Tool/dp/B000UHMITE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1494875518&sr=8-3&keywords=tool+kit

I say definitely go for it and try them out. I never put a model together before getting these. If you get a pair of side cutters (this is a cheap one that will get you started), they come out great.

Boba Fett is the only one that really requires paint to look good. The Sandtrooper and Scout Trooper are pretty plain without weathering also. But other than that there's stickers along with waterslide decals for any little details. I use stickers for mine.

Here are a couple of photo shoots I did:

Darth Vader

Stormtrooper

Scout trooper

22 AWG stranded wire is pretty standard for wiring anything.

i usually buy these, as they're a good price, 2 day shipping w/ prime, and its a nice multi color kit, which helps when wiring...in case you have to trace the wire back to the board when debugging. plus everyone likes colors:

http://www.amazon.com/Electronix-Express-Hook-Wire-Stranded/dp/B00B4ZQ3L0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418566941&sr=8-1&keywords=wire+kit

http://www.amazon.com/Electronix-Express-Hook-Wire-Solid/dp/B00B4ZRPEY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1418566941&sr=8-2&keywords=wire+kit

use shielded wire (with the 'shield grounded') for any audio signal inputs/outputs if you get noise. not 100% necessary, but might be worth it in the end for the sound quality and reducing any noise.

i also recommend you get a real wire stripper. this one is the bees knees:

http://www.amazon.com/Tools-VISE-GRIP-Self-Adjusting-Stripper-2078300/dp/B000OQ21CA/ref=sr_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1418567132&sr=1-2&keywords=wire+stripper

Thanks for asking the question because I was wondering about decent chisels on a budget. I'll probably pick up https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004TK0IG8/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I1JK4X4CB9PRRD&colid=XSR4TUQ1ES94&psc=1 based on the recommendations. Hope the BF loves his gift whatever you get!

I've lurked here for a while and thought I should make my first post.

I'm also looking for a better wallet similar to mine. I've checked out the Hitch and Timber Card Caddy, but can't justify the price. Any recommendations?

Any other feedback is also welcome :)

Small multi-tools (Pick one and goes in wallet front pocket)

• Vicrorinox classic SD
  
• Leatherman Style PS
  
  Flashlight (Goes in wallet's front pocket)
  
  
• Glaree Key-chain Flashlight
  
  Pens (Pick one)
  
  
• Pilot Metropolitan Fountain Pen
  
  
• Zebra F-301 Compact
  
  Wallet
  
  
• Cheap wallet from amazon that holds my flashlight and multitool
  
  Watch
  
  
• LG Watch Urbane
  
  Earbuds
  
  
• Symphonized NRG 2.0 Earbuds
  
  Phone (Had to Badly Photoshop it into the pic)
  
  
• Moto X Pure Edition with wood back and blue accents and a Poetic Affinity case
  
  On key-chain
  
  
• Chinese Suspension Clip with organizer
  
• Nite-Ize DoohicKey
  
• Sandisk Ultra Flair 64GB
  
• Truck/House keys
  
  Knives (Just my favorites. I usually just carry whatever knife I'm feeling that day)
  
  
• Ganzo/Firebird F7542
  
  
• CRKT Swindle
  
  
• Ontario RAT II
  
  
  
  Edit: not sure why photo uploaded with potato quality
  
  

Items for outside the classroom

Biggest thing to carry is a bottle opener

Cheap Keychain Bottle Opener

You don't want some expensive bottle opener because you'll be passing it around alot and you might forget to ask for it back

BIC Lighter

Kershaw Cinder

BUT preferably swiss army knife classic
SAK Classic

or the rally with a bottle opener
SAK Rally
you sacrifice scissors for bottle opener

wallet
dont get a bifold wallet those are out of style no (no offense to anyone who still carries them) but a simple slim card holder is alot better and sleek

Things you need in the classroom

Best Red Pens a must for note taking
I wouldn't get the blue one uniball because its a dark blue almost black

So get these instead
BIC blue pen

Most "EDC" notebooks are expensive and offer very little sheets of paper. You could use one as an assignment pad but something with acutal dates is better so once you get your syllabus you can right down all the assignments during the first week.

Note books I would just go to walmart. You can get five subject notebooks for $2 now during their back to school special. Where ever you buy notebooks take advantage and buy for the spring semester because prices are only this cheap in aug/september.

Not your usual edc recommendations but I wasn't rolling in dough early on in my college career and rather let people borrow a cheap pen and let them keep it then stress about getting my pen back when I let the next person borrow it to sign in.

your edc should be what you like to carry and use

I modified my setup a bit, to accodomodate feedback from other people and to see what works best for me

Somebody suggest to use this knife:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0016KHW2W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here's my new setup:

RIGHT FRONT POCKET

Any dynomighty wallet, just pick a design

https://www.dynomighty.com/categories/

Car keys (whatever your carkeys are). If you want a USB stick added on to your keys, use a Micro-HDMI for low profile and convenience

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RBGYGPG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

LEFT FRONT POCKET

Iphone6, Samsung S6, etc etc. Whatever floats your boat

Pick a small battery charger, search for it on amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=portable+battery+charger&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aportable+battery+charger

Get a retractable cable for your charger if you need too (low profile)

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters%C2%AE-Gold-Plated-Retractable-Micro-USB/dp/B00SVVY844/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1474558782&sr=8-4&keywords=USB+retractable+cable

JEAN COIN POCKET (on front right pocket)

That gerber fold up knife https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0016KHW2W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

RIGHT MOST JEAN STRAP ( was the front right before)

Carbiner

https://www.amazon.com/LeBeila-Carabiner-Aluminum-Locking-Keychain/dp/B013NNG18U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474558280&sr=8-1&keywords=carabiner

duck tape

Tape planet had the cheapest prices at $1.54 each

http://www.tapeplanet.com/Mini-Rainbow-Duck-Tape-Duckling-p/stdtpl-282322.htm

BACK LEFT POCKET

Measuring tape. This one has the lowest profile so it doesn't hurt to sit on, 10' is good enough for almost everything

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-33-115-10-Foot--4-Inch-PowerLock/dp/B00009OYGH/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1474558504&sr=8-7&keywords=measuring+tape

BACK RIGHT POCKET

Get sticky notes, I suggest highland brand 3"x3" since it works for nearly everything you might need sticky notes. I suggest getting both, alternate colors by day

Plain yellow:

https://www.amazon.com/Post--Markers-Assorted-Bright-670-10AB/dp/B007QFATEO/ref=sr_1_6?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1474558871&sr=1-6&keywords=sticky+notes

Color:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OCPJK0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also, get a sharpie too. Fine points are good

https://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Permanent-Markers-Point-Black/dp/B00006IFHD/ref=sr_1_1?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1474558955&sr=1-1&keywords=sharpie

Alternatively or ultra fine

https://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-37001WM-Permanent-Marker-12-Pack/dp/B00006IFI3/ref=pd_sim_229_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=08FBBP33PZV82ZY7AT41


--------------

that's my current setup

Cat 6 is perfectly fine, as it can support up to 10Gb, so its pretty future proofed as 1Gb is still the standard. We won't see 10Gb becoming the norm for a while.

As far as cable, I usually get it from Monoprice, or sometimes from amazon. I just bought a 1000ft spool of Cat6 for like $65

If you are putting drops in each room, its probably best to put in wall plates, and punch down the cable to a jack. You'll need a Punchdown Tool for this.

I'd highly recommend running all the cables to a patch panel. Ideally have them run to the same location as your modem and other networking equipment. You'd use the same punch down tool here as well.

If you need to terminate any cables to a normal Ethernet connector, it isn't difficult, but it is a bit tedious. The first one you do will take you a bit to do, but once you get the hang of it, each one will become a little quicker. you can watch a youtube video on how to do it.
You'll need a Crimping tool to crimp the ends on.

You get what you pay for. I wouldn't touch a $40 cable tester, much less a tool kit.
You can spend money wisely, like buying a Klein 10-in-1 or 11-in-1 for PSTN/POTS outside work.
For precision drivers, Wiha is what you want- this is a nice portable set which works on the bench as well.
For crimpers I currently use an Ideal Telemaster but will be switching to an Amp. For cable testing I use a Fluke Cable IQ or LinkRunner.
Your tools need to be better quality that the amateurs that banged on it before you. You definitely don't want crappy tools to be holding you back.
If you are worried about theft, sign the tools out to individual techs and make them responsible for them. Part of the sign-out process should be an authorization to withhold the replacement cost from their paycheck if they lose anything.

Are you sure this is where it is bad/what is causing the problem. It is hard to tell from the picture exactly, so here is some general info.

The outer black layer is pretty much just for protection/shielding and could be replaced with electrical tape in a pinch (which it sounds like you have tried).

Inside you have 8 wires in 4 color pairs (a solid and a stripe). One or more of those wires may be damaged/disconnected.

I would look at them closely, peal back the black outer coating more if needed, and see if you can find any breaks in the 8 smaller wires. If you find one and absolutely don't want to buy anything to fix it right or run another cable, you may be able to strip off the outer coating on the individual wire to expose the copper wire inside.

Do that on both sides of the break, twist it together, cover with electrical tape, then try it out. If it works, cover the whole thing back up with electrical tape.

If you don't see any obvious breaks or issues, check into other issues (like is it maybe the router, the XBox, the cable RJ-45 plugs (the ends), etc).

Anyway, good luck. If you really want to fix it right, you could get a not that great, but serviceable crimper set for under $15:

http://smile.amazon.com/Wild-us-Tester-Crimper-Connector-Network/dp/B008UY5WL0/

Cut the cable on either side fo the tear, use that to put an RJ45 jack on each end of the break, then use a coupler like this to join them back:

http://smile.amazon.com/Britta-Products-271710-Coupler-Straight/dp/B000BSLW8U/

I know that isn't what you want to do, but it may be the best way if that is the true cause/location of your problem.

This is a selection of what I keep in my tech go-bag. You'll build your kit as you learn and build experience, or realize you could have helped a customer out of a jam quicker if you had that tool with you.

• cheap flashlights you wont feel bad about leaving in a ceiling or inside a rack: https://www.amazon.com/Magnetic-Lights-Super-Bright-White/dp/B00I45JKTA/
  
  
• torx screwdriver for lots of little devices. I have a similar set and it's pretty decent: https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Magnetic-Precision-Screwdriver-Electronics/dp/B015F734P0/
  
  
• power supply tester
  
  
• rechargable canned air
  
  
• zip ties
  
  
• velcro: https://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice-Cable-Fastening-Tape-Yards/dp/B00FT2WHO6/
  
  
• leatherman/gerber multi-tool (needlenose) convenient when you need to do something quick and you don't have your bag with you.
  
  
• Set of pliers/wire cutters (leave the chanel locks at home): https://www.amazon.com/Tools-VISE-GRIP-4-Piece-Traditional-2078707/dp/B000CFMCTK/
  
  
• sharpies
  
  
• electrical tape: the good kind not the cheapo stuff
  
  
• multi-screwdriver: https://www.amazon.com/Lenox-Tools-23932-Multi-Tool-Driver/dp/B0013NX2DA/
  
  
• cordless electric screwdriver if you have lots of screwing to do.
  
  
• razor knife: https://www.amazon.com/Gerber-Lite-Pocket-Knife-31-000345/dp/B002RILCLY/
  
  
• cable tester/tone generator: https://www.amazon.com/ELEGIANT-Multifunction-Tracker-Measuring-Instrument/dp/B01HCQSHNG/
  
  
• analog phone for testing phone lines: https://www.amazon.com/Saytay-Telephone-Lineman-Tester-Connectors/dp/B01ABT7458/
  
  
• punch down tool: https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Punch-Krone-Blade-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/
  
  
• cable crimper: https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-RJ-45-RJ-12-RJ-11-TC-CT68/dp/B0000AZK4G/
  
  Various extra parts I've accumulated over the years like screws, ATX Molex Power to SATA Power Adapters, ATX Molex Y splitters, SATA cables etc..
  
  Good luck and some tools overlap like multi tools and pliers so if budget is low, go with the tool that covers the most jobs.
  
  Edit: I noticed your bag is kind of expensive compared to something like a Dewalt tool bag. I use a plain Dewalt bag which is not as cool as the one in the link, but it's just as tough. This might be a good and less expensive consideration for you if you don't require the look of a briefcase for your tool bag.
  
  Edit 2: You may want to mark your tools with a wrap of some crazy bright color electrical tape to be able to recognize them when they walk away.
  
  
  

Just about every hand-tool manufacturer has their brand attached to these. This one seems like it has the most trust on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-VISE-GRIP-2078300-Self-Adjusting-Stripper/dp/B000OQ21CA/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1526925570&sr=1-4&keywords=wire+strippers+self

if you can find a more reputable brand like knipex that has them and you want to pay for german engineering, I'd recommend it.

Vise-grips is under the stanley black&decker umbrella so YMMV with quality. Everyone else looks like they use the same or similar manufacturer based on the lack of much discernible difference apart from the handles

This guy is in all of my bags. I also carry a North Face Surge 2, it's pretty solid, has a lot of pockets, the laptop pouch is lined so my device never gets scratched up. I have some velcro cable ties that have been very useful at times, but I also go into a lot of rack rooms still.

I agree with the comfy shoes, and I also carry some hand sani and wipes.

don't worry dude, the other 99'11" of this line is still good, no need to rip it out

Something like this https://www.amazon.com/UbiGear-Crimper-Connector-Network-Crimper315/dp/B008UY5WL0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1518894673&sr=8-3&keywords=ethernet+kit&dpID=51DjZejC9oL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch should have everything you need for under $15 - will sort you out perfectly.

It took me about 20 minutes to learn to use the tools, and now whenever I need a short cable I can just make one. Boot split and frayed? Who cares, I'll just replace that bad boy, no throwing out the entire run for me. Drilling through a wall to feed a cable outdoors, how will the plug fit? No problem. So convenient as a future-proof ability to have under your belt.

Unsurprisingly, excellent instructions for dummies like me are incredibly prolific on the internet, including lots of great YT videos

As others have mentioned the interference from multiple unshielded cables right next to each other will be slowing your entire network down right now (loads of dropped packets and failed attempts), so I agree this is more /r/techsupportgore than MacGyver. Fix this right and everything will be significantly less laggy, plus you only gotta buy cheap tools once and then you're set to be able to make incredibly low price Ethernet lines wherever you live for the rest of your life

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Happy happy cake day And thank you!

I have multiple sets of chisels but I find I go back to my Stanley 750 (the modern ones) often. You can get a set of 4 for under 100 on amazon. Quality stuff. I use the Paul Sellers technique to chop mortises. I isn't as quick as some but it sure feels good once completed. Like reliving an ancient technique.

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-16-791-Sweetheart-Socket-Chisel/dp/B004TK0IG8

This might be a little small, but I just picked up a Leatherman Style PS for my keychain and I love it so far. It's replaced my much larger Leatherman Charge as part of my EDC since I pretty much only used the pliers and scissors.

I love using my utility knife to sharpen my pencils. Inexpensive, easy to carry and you can buy a pack of 50 for 10 bucks.I just got this bad boy and it's working out pretty great.

x 2! the Mora is a good starter work knife. They are cheap enough to have a few, which is better IMO than one super expensive knife. I keep one in my vehicle, one in my winter emergency bag, and one with my camping stuff. Plus a few other lying around, I think. (I'm not even sure how many I have now...)

They are not perfect, but for the price they are a great value.

Betafpv sells these 4-blades, but they are a bit heavier than regular. They also have taller hub which protrudes further out of the duct, increasing the possibility of hitting something and damaging the motor.

So I ended up drilling regular whoop props with a small hand drill and a 1mm bit. It is easy to do and the results are great – no unbalance or anything, prop sits snug on the shaft. I recommend doing the same. This is the drill I used.

I would ask a buddy if he has a torque wrench or screw driver in lb/in. If not, here's one I'm probably going to buy. It's best to eliminate as much as you can with the hardware. If everything is to spec, you've at least eliminated your rig. There could be a little bit of cant in your reticle. I'd also read this article to make sure you've eliminated cant in your reticle to the best of your abilities.

Howto post pics to reddit can be found here.

unfortunately i only have time to make video at night.

Clamp light like this one ?

For the light bulb, how many wattage do i need for a small room (10 feet x 9 feet)?

I think i can buy one cheap diffuser, but i don't know the differences between the one that looks like umbrella, or softbox

If i can only buy one, which 1 is better?

Thanks

https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Firearms-Accurizing-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0012AXR4S

There's the analog version from Amazon. I have one, I like it, it seems to work well. I don't have anything to test it against, so I don't know if the torque it puts out is accurate, or if it's the best of the best, but it's good enough for me.

HEY THANKS! When I was new to the game I didn't know how to tell what props go on which motor, and when i threw them into my bag I wanted to be able to know what i'm pulling out. SO I wrote the motor numbers under the props (see this pic for motor numbers. I no longer do this, I started flying with some guys who showed me a "trick", if you will. With the kwad facing forward from you, putting on props the pitch will always face UP when parallel front and back... errr wow that's hard to explain in words. If you don't know what i'm talking about let me know I can post a pic, lol.

As far as what's in my "tool stand", lol. I have Hex Drivers, X-Acto knife, multibit screw driver, flashlight, sharpie, wire snips, and small pair of plyers. tagging /u/medium2slow.

• Screwdrivers
  
  
• Needle nose pliers
  
  
• Sockets
  
  
• Electric Drill
  
  
• Putty knife and spackle
  
  
• Level
  
  
• Hammer
  
  
• Work gloves
  
  
• Stud finder
  
  
• Tape Measure
  
  
• A good, small flashlight--keep one in the car and one in the home
  
  
• A toolbox to store it all
  
  
  Specifically for my truck I have:
  
  a flexing spark plug socket like this one and spark plug pullers
  
  An OBD II Scanner
  
  Auto jack(s)
  
  An oil pan and an oil filter wrench or other tool that makes the filter easier to remove
  
  And, of course, jumper cables, a poncho or two, some spare water bottles and all that good stuff that stays in the truck too.
  
  
  Edit: Honestly, this is a great place to start--Stanley 65-Piece Homeowner's Tool Kit
  
  

If you want an inexpensive folder that will work for carving Try this:

https://www.amazon.com/Benchmade-Mini-Griptilian-Folding-Knife/dp/B019J0DYY0/

That's my daily EDC btw. I like the Benchmade with the "spyderco blade" in it. Works good, it's fairly sharp out of the box, that kinda thing.

compare the blade shape to a dedicated carving knife:

https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Carving-Knife-Laminated-2-35-Inch/dp/B004GATX62

Then when you want a little nicer handle...

http://wilkins-knives.com/wilkinsgrip

This has been my carry knife for 6 months now. It was my first spring assisted knife and I really like it..

http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-1830-Stainless-Steel-Handle-SpeedSafe/dp/B00172A3DE/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1420479079&sr=1-1&keywords=Kershaw+1830+OSO+Sweet+Knife+with+Stainless-Steel+Blade+and+Nylon+Handle+with+SpeedSafe

I have one of these. A little bigger, but still able to carry it easy. Very strong and durable knife.

http://www.coldsteel.com/Product/VOYAGER.20_SERIES/VOYAGER_SERIES.aspx

I have the Light My Fire in my car camping kitchen kit.

It's very similar to a Morakniv Companion but with the addition of the firesteel. You can get it in black if you want something unobtrusive; I prefer bright (green, orange) so it stands out if dropped, or just if it's buried in a pack. Bright colours also tend not to squick other campers out as much as black. (as dumb as that sounds/is)

The Massdrop price is ridiculously low. At $19, it's worth buying one for your kit and another to keep around for a gift for some future friend's birthday.

One thing: the Morakniv Bushcraft has a 50% thicker blade and much better suited to tasks like batoning.

I use my Every Day Carry items....every day....which is why I carry those items, every day.

Used my Fenix UC35 last night during our snow storm to keep an eye on the dogs, and to explore the dark winter wilderness a little bit. I also daily a warm knit hat and gloves for the season...which are also useful in the snow, for obvious reasons. Cut a very long loose string off my coat lastnight as well with the blade I've been carrying around for almost a decade now, my Sypderco Endura 4. My smaller Streamlight Stylus Pro wasn't needed, but was there if for some reason I developed a use for it.

Just recently got a Leatherman Squirt PS4 which I carry in the little coin pocket of my jeans. It's scissors are very handy in replacement of my older Victorinox Classic which works great for the tweezers and toothpick, but it's scissors have had it. Anyway, I used the Leatherman to file down a couple finger nails I tore up lifting a CVT onto a cart two days ago. The single cut file was good enough to keep the jagged edges of my nails from snagging my gloves, so it's alright in my book.

Frequently use my lighter, a Ronson Jetlite to flip around as a fiddle item or to light periodic items asunder, or to bond them to each other (in the case of paracord).

It's not quite the same but I have something like the Gerber EAB for a small carry and love it. Uses a utility knife blade tho. https://www.amazon.com/Gerber-Lite-Pocket-Knife-31-000345/dp/B002RILCLY/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=gerber+folding+knife&qid=1571754968&sr=8-4

You might be interested in something like the Gerber EAB or Gerber EAB Lite for that utility blade. Both are pretty nice. Ironically, the EAB is lighter than the EAB Lite.

I believe its a credit card size function tool that you store in your wallet. I don't know OP's brand but this one is popular but if you're looking more at what OP has then this one looks pretty similar. I haven't tried either so I would look at the reviews before deciding to buy.

Get a manual precision/ jeweler's drill with a few bit sizes, such as this one: In-tool-home Precision Pin Vise Model Hand Drill Set with Twist Drill Bits Set of 11 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010BV7190/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Sya3AbWQQ6DFA

All you'll need to do is find a good-sized bit, attach it to the drill, place it against the desired spot and spin while holding in place with your pointer finger. Hope that helps!

For Light Carry:

• Leatherman Style PS - TSA approved or Leatherman Micra
  
  
• Fenix E12 Flashlight - I believe this is the successor to the EO5
  
  
• Zebra F-301 Pen or Fisher Bullet Space Pen - the stainless wears better in your pocket.
  
  
• Moleskin Volant Notebook
  
  
• SOG Flash I - if you can swing the extra $10 or get the cheaper pen, I HIGHLY recommend this knife as a very minimal yet practical knife. I've sort of chunked the rest and this one is with me all the time. Also very public-friendly size.
  
  

I got back in town from a Magic: The Gathering tournament today. I got eighth place, which is pretty good. I stopped at a Sonic on the way, but that was the only thing I ate all day. Also, my allergies have been bothering me quite a bit lately, but I took some medicine, and it's starting to kick in. I've been sleep deprived the past two days, so I'm going to go to bed soon. This is the thing that I want. It was the only thing on my wishlist under three dollars. I hope that you have a happy day. Be happy tomorrow too, since today is almost over.

This collapsible shot glass is really cool and only $2.28

http://amzn.com/B0042B36Q8

Also I keep this thing in my wallet at ALL times, and it comes in handy

http://amzn.com/B000Q06LI4

HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!

Surprise me! :p

The necessities are:

• Precision screwdriver set (to use as mandrels)
  
• Organic Cotton Pads (easier to work with than ball cotton)
  
• Kanthal (in assorted gauges)
  
• Ohm Reader (EDIT--added per V's reminder. There may be a better sauce for these, though).
  
  I'd recommend 26, 28, and 0.8x0.1 ribbon to start. That gives you a lot of options for building. You'll notice the first two links are add-on items on Amazon, so you'll have to buy $25 worth of wire, wire cutters, tweezers, or just add it to some other amazon order you're making.

There's a few good videos to watch on YouTube. Here is a one I found useful

There's multiple tools that you can use, but I've found these two to be indispensable for the job.

Carving knife

Gouge

I also used a spokeshave and a hook knife. I didn't find the hook knife to be all that useful though. Another way to shape the outside of the spoon is with a belt/disc sander. I found that to be a quick, although very messy, way to get the rough shape I wanted. Then I'd clean it up with the spokeshave and knife. Sand it up to 400 or more then finish with a food safe product like howards butcher block conditioner

For cheap assisted knives, Kershaw is the way to go. You can get an OSO sweet under $20, or a cryo under $25, both of which are popular around here in their price range. If you have a little more to spend, the Leek is a great choice.

Start with a basic tool kit: screwdriver set, hex wrenches, pliers, box cutter, level, hammer, ect.

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-94-248-65-Piece-Homeowners-Tool/dp/B000UHMITE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495687960&sr=8-3&keywords=Tool+kit

Something like this.

Then i definitely recommend socket wrenches.

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWMT73804-Drive-Socket-Piece/dp/B00WLVV2YE/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1495688089&sr=8-9&keywords=socket+wrench

Next I'd recommend an impact driver. There are going to be times where your drill won't cut it.

https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-BDCI20C-Lithium-Impact/dp/B00JJ3QY9A/ref=sr_1_4?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1495688152&sr=1-4&keywords=impact+driver

I purchased a circular saw recently and have gotten a good amount of use out of it. If you don't plan on doing any woodwork then pass on this.

https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-BDECS300C-Circular-Laser/dp/B01LX8KOAD/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1495688185&sr=1-6&keywords=circular+saw

Probably outside of your price range if you're sticking to $300 but a pressure washer is amazing. I use mine all the time.

Another extra item would be an air compressor. You can use it for tons of stuff such as nail guns.

And then also you'll need all your yard work tools. Loppers, shovels, rakes, trimmers, ect.

Oh man.... All the stuff to maintain your home is so expensive. But I'd start here.

I wouldn't expect a lot for the price. 10000K is pretty high, you probably want more of a 5-6k range for freshwater plants. I got a similar cheap LED bar and it was barely enough to even illuminate a tank visually, let alone keep plants alive.

High end LED bars get expensive. If you want cheap lighting for a planted tank, just get fixtures like this and clamp or hang them above the tank, with daylight compact flourescent or LED bulbs (Home Depot or Lowes has a good selection.)

Something like this?

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00009OYGV/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1491577769&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=precision+screwdriver+set&dpPl=1&dpID=41josrE03YL&ref=plSrch

Yeah I was going to go with the EK Vardar fans, I'm looking to keeps temps as low as possible mostly, but less sound would be nice as well. Would the EK Vardar 1450rpm pair well with a EK PE rad?

1. Casio G-Shock GA-100-1A1ER
   
2. LUX · PRO LP290C COMPACT Pocket Handheld Flashlight, Blue
   
3. SanDisk Cruzer
   
4. Yoshida Kaban Porter Free Style Card Holder
   
5. Kershaw 1830 OSO Sweet Knife with Stainless-Steel Blade and Nylon Handle with SpeedSafe
   
6. Black Diamond Light D Carabiner
   
7. Tungsten Carbide Ring

All the cat5 cables ive seen have 4 pairs; blue, brown, green and orange/red and a striped counterpart. In the image posted it looks like the colors are still there, they just went with different patterns and shades.

So im seeing the orange one come out of the wall, and it LOOKS like its going into the third block from the left, but i notice its actually connected to the second from the left, so its matched with the solid orange. The fourth from the left appears to be the solid greens, as i can also see the third block contains the striped greens (as well as some of the leftover from the wall cable). And of course the far right block houses the orange striped wires. So it looks like someone was bridging the orange and green pairs, but the green striped line is broken or cut on purpose.

So like i said before if it was coming from the phone line we would only need 2 to get data to the modem, but as this is coming from a router, itll need most, if not all, of the 8 wires connected. There is a guide to wiring all this up and it goes by color of the wires, but thats just a guide and may not always be the case in how it was actually wired up.

This is how a standard ethernet cable is hooked up

Also cat 5e is just a cat5 cable that can handle more data and is better shielded so thats a non issue.

So long story short, its looks like all of them need to be hooked back up. All the suggestion in my first post should still be valid and if i were doing it i would probably run a whole new cat5 cable from the router to the pc. Failing being able to do that, i would trim up the cables in your pic, crimp new heads on following the diagram color chart, and patch them together with a female-to-female rj45 patch socket. Failing ability to do that, i would solder each wire to the other and shrink tube the joint. And lastly i would resort to twisting them together with electrical tape, or using a wire block like in your pic to join them and throw the whole thing in an enclosure like a plastic bag or something lol. Basically anything to get those wires touching and not falling apart will net some degree of success.

You'll need:

Edge trimmers

Cat5 head crimper

F2F rj45 coupler

Cat5 heads

Something similar to this 8 wire bus bar will work, but smaller would be better

And thats about it, depending on how you decide to go about the repair. Also no problem at all. shoot me another message if anything else pops up and ill help however i can.

an 8X10 equinox tarp, $45 shipped:
http://www.amazon.com/Equinox-145774-Egret-Tarps-8-Feet/dp/B000C3MIL4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394138363&sr=8-1&keywords=equinox+tarp

Wetterlings Forest axe, $110
http://www.amazon.com/S-A-Wetterling-Axe-Wetterlings-Axes/dp/B002NWT68K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394138611&sr=8-1&keywords=wetterlings

wide mouth stainless steel water bottle, $16
http://www.amazon.com/Klean-Kanteen-Stainless-Brushed-64-Ounce/dp/B0093IS22I/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1394138674&sr=8-6&keywords=klean+kanteen

Mora bushcraft, $50 (includes firesteel)
http://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Bushcraft-Carbon-Survival-Starter/dp/B00BFI8TOA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394138730&sr=8-1&keywords=mora+bushcraft

100 feet of parachute cord, $9
http://www.amazon.com/Rothco-Commercial-Paracord-550-Pound-50-Feet/dp/B000S5ODN2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1394138780&sr=8-2&keywords=paracord

MSR stainless steel pot: $20 (I have one of these, they're fantastic)
http://www.amazon.com/MSR-321109-Stowaway-Pot-1-1-Liter/dp/B000FBSZGU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394138913&sr=8-1&keywords=msr+alpine+pot

leather work gloves, $13
http://www.amazon.com/Carhartt-Grain-Leather-Driver-Glove/dp/B005I34I5W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1394139051&sr=8-2&keywords=leather+work+gloves

That all adds up to $263.

brand isn't that important, but you can also find the following on Amazon for probably around or under $60-$70 total.

1. a wool hat and gloves
   
   
2. stormproof matches (look for the NATO approved ones)
   
   
3. water treatment tablets
   
   
4. a space blanket
   
   
5. a basic first aid kit
   
   
6. a sewing kit
   
   
7. a bandana or other cotton scarf (keffiyeh, etc.)
   
   
8. A stainless steel or titanium backpackers spoon or spork (spoon on one end, fork on the other)
   
   
   The remaining money, probably about $150, I would put on a gift card to EMS, REI, Cabela's, or some other outdoor goods store where he can get some basic outdoor clothing or fill any remaining gaps with his gear, such as a pack. I generally don't recommend bags over the internet because it's so important that you try one on in person before buying it.

Thanks for starting this, it has come at a good time for me. I will be expanding my keychain carry soon and hadn't come across a couple of those. Here are a few more to add to the list:



https://sites.google.com/site/jrpcustomknives/tools


The ruler on this is nice:

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=61101&cat=1,43456


Fairly popular, but worth mentioning here:

http://www.amazon.com/Swiss-Tech-UKCSB-1-Utili-Key-MultiTool/dp/B0001EFSTI


I originally saw this one on ThinkGeek:

http://www.amazon.com/True-Utility-TU47-Multifunction-Stainless/dp/B003F527NU

Cheap and very portable:

http://www.amazon.com/SE-Function-Credit-Survival-Pocket/dp/B000Q06LI4

Of course, there are the various pry-bars over at CountyComm:

http://countycomm.com/barfamily.html

And lastly, some unique tools:

http://www.americankami.com/swag.html

Not strictly a 'pocket tool', but for organizing them.

http://www.amazon.com/True-Utility-TU45-Stainless-Organizer/dp/B003A5E5IK/ref=pd_sim_misc_5/177-6248037-1918428

This can be achieved using snap rings like those from TEC Accessories. I bought some at the same time I purchased my P7 clip. Only 40 cents each + keyring of your choice, however, I'm not sure where to find the horseshoe in the previous example, or how to DIY.

http://www.tecaccessories.com/products/category.php?CA=7

**EDIT: formatting and keyring stuff~

I'm in need of some help, I am trying to find a place to buy key rings in various shapes other than the typical circle. What I would prefer is a heart/D shaped ring and my google-fu is too weak to find anything.

• Sawyer Mini Water Filter
  
  
• Ferrocerium Rod
  
  
• Morakniv Companion
  
  
• Cotton Bandanna
  
  
• Reusable Mylar Blanket
  
  
• SAK Classic
  
  
• AMK Trauma Pack
  
  
• Signal Mirror
  
  
• Compass
  
  These are just suggestions, I'm sure there are cheaper or better quality alternatives to these, but it's a good start.
  
  Also, you're a cool brother.

I had a few chances to use it. Honestly, it was a waste of money. It was extremely dull when it came in. I’d suggest buying individual knives after having experienced both. I ended up buying a mora 120 and a mora 164 and I am very happy with them. You’re better off buying high quality knives. It’ll save you money in the long run.

This might be excessive, but I wanted to be thorough so you can see what all is out there. I am having trouble thinking of anything that the following tools can't do, in terms of AR building and maintenance. This is basically my setup at home, though some.of the brands and whatnot are different.

I am operating under the assumption that you already have some basic hand tools in addition to the torque wrench.

The only things you absolutely need are roll pin punches and an armorer's wrench and some basic hand tools like Allen wrenches, screwdrivers, needlenose pliers and so on. The rest just expedite the process and help solve weird issues that may come up.


Wheeler Engineering Roll Pin Starter Punch Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B3NWBVI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QJZDAb1ZFBQ80

Wheeler Roll Pin Punch Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EE6GHVW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4JZDAbV5YGA8M

Wheeler Hammer and Punch Set In Plastic Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SY07HU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FNZDAb1Y74EF0

Geissele Automatics 10-169 AR15/M4 Reaction Rod https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EY6WFAI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hOZDAbD3JHBAE

Aeroshell 33ms / MIL-G-21164D / MIL-SPEC Barrel Nut Thread Grease + 1/2oz can https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BJ3HE0K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4OZDAbQGRYJJ2

TEKTON Long Arm Ball End Hex Key Wrench Set, Inch/Metric, 26-Piece | 25282 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I5THF4W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PPZDAbQ05H680

TEKTON Long Arm Star Key Wrench Set, T10-T50, 9-Piece | 25291 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I5THF9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cQZDAbRX59VNW

IRWIN Tools Multi-Purpose Bench Vise, 5-Inch (4935505) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009TOCZEC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1QZDAbT8R47J0

Yost UP-360 Universal 6 Inch Prism Style Jaw Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EVQH42U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aRZDAbRHAV73E

Real Avid Gun Tool Pro - for Modern Sporting Rifles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IMHX5KA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bUZDAbEB87JFB

Wheeler Firearms Accurizing Torque Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012AXR4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xWZDAb1SRYD6D

Wheeler Professional Gunsmithing Screwdriver Set (43-Piece) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HTN4EWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HXZDAbQX5BEWF

TacWater USA AR15/M4/M16 Tools Multi-Purpose Tool Set (W) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079H5WWZ3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GYZDAbRGY3CNH

Takedown Pivot PIN Tool set 223 556 6.8 SPC 300 AAC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017OUSJFQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_V.ZDAbSHZPEG5

Magpul Bev Block https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1015877615/magpul-bev-block-ar-15-action-block

Here is a good link that really explains everything well.

http://www.ecigclick.co.uk/ultimate-rda-guide-for-beginners/

Some pointers, get a building kit, they are life savers, I would however recommend a different pair of wire cutters, this is the pair I use, and they are phenominal:

http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Stand-off-Construction-21-Degree/dp/B017ODDPNO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463530354&sr=8-1&keywords=flush+cutter

I use Koh Gen Do cotton, they spelled it wrong, but it's my go to. I just like it. Hope this helps

Hey, I'm assuming he's just starting so, do not get him a combo set. That's foolish, he doesn't need an impact driver at all. Search for .home repair' and you'll find a ton. Some stuff to get you started:

 

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-94-248-65-Piece-Homeowners-Tool/dp/B000UHMITE/ref=sr_1_4?m=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&s=warehouse-deals&ie=UTF8&qid=1480266147&sr=1-4

 

https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-LDX120PK-20-Volt-Lithium-Ion/dp/B00C625KVE/ref=sr_1_15?m=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&s=warehouse-deals&ie=UTF8&qid=1480266147&sr=1-15

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/1621452018/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me=

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/1118099400/ref=tmm_pap_new_olp_sr?ie=UTF8&condition=new&qid=&sr=

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EUH4TG/ref=s9_acsd_al_bw_c_multiimp_4?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-5&pf_rd_r=SN6M6HFB4M7DNW76GTG1&pf_rd_r=SN6M6HFB4M7DNW76GTG1&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=de121dcf-3645-4f43-a816-cf12556f7ae3&pf_rd_p=de121dcf-3645-4f43-a816-cf12556f7ae3&pf_rd_i=15469024011

 

sorry i don't have time to format but, good luck!

It's the Classic SD. Probably the most commonly carried SAK, and for good reason. I admit I like the Rambler (same tool with a bottle opener/small magnetic ph screwdriver added) a bit better.

I just use one these for all my tanks. For a 10 gallon, put a 13w CFL bulb in it and call it good. Make sure you get one that is "daylight," around 6500k. I get them at Bed Bath and Beyond.



Works like a charm

Absolutely! Thanks so much for the help.

So for the lighting, I bought two clip clights like https://www.amazon.ca/Bayco-SL-300N4-8-5-Inch-Aluminum-Reflector/dp/B007RKKEHA/ref=asc_df_B007RKKEHA/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292962912878&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7779507648941511035&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001212&hvtargid=pla-357225917488&psc=1 and wrapped white cloth over them to soften the light from them. What would you say the main issue is with the lighting? DIY of course, but is there anything I could do with what I have to improve the lighting?

Phone: iPhone 5c + cheap Spigen case

Watch: Seiko SKX007 + Super Oyster II Bracelet

Wallet: Radix One

Keychain: Remove Before Flight tag, Sandisk Ultra Fit, Dollar Store Carabiner

Keychain Multitool: Victorinox Classic OR Leatherman Micra

Multitool: Leatherman Skeletool

Flashlight: Streamlight Microstream

Pen: Fisher Space Pen OR Modded Zebra 701

Yoyo: The Sage (for now)

First post, any questions or suggestions please feel free. Thanks guys!

Checklist:

Coupon code for Lightning Vapes: ohmsweetohm (17% off)

• 24/26 gauge kanthal (I buy from Lightning vapes) ~ price varies
  
  http://www.lightningvapes.com/collections/kanthal/products/kanthal-a1-resistance-wire?variant=993078056
  
  
• Ceramic tweezers (Also Lightning vapes) ~ $12
  
  http://www.lightningvapes.com/products/ceramic-heat-resistant-tweezers-pointed-tip?variant=740212113
  
  
• Coil jig i.e. coil master v3 (I got this for $16 from sweet-vapes)
  
  http://sweet-vapes.com/coil-master-v3.html
  
  
• Organic unbleached cotton (Amazon has koh gen do for an afforable price)
  http://www.amazon.com/Koh-Gen-Do-Organic-Cotton/dp/B00NU3H3KE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1453852567&sr=8-2&keywords=koh+gen+do
  
  
• Flush cutters ($5)
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Stand-off-Construction-21-Degree/dp/B017ODDPNO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453852717&sr=8-1&keywords=flush+cutters
  
  
  
• Scissors for cotton ($9)
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-Inch-Micro-Tip-Scissors-94817897J/dp/B00006IFNA/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1453852757&sr=8-6&keywords=fiskar+scissors
  
  
  You should buy an ohm meter if you have a regulated mod. Also, you can use the steam-engine website to calculate your ohms and your mod will be able to read it out for you. But an ohm meter is just for safety precautions.
  
  Personally, I like storing all my gear in a bin so I bought this
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-STST14027-SortMaster-Tool-Organizer/dp/B00O7R6RS6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1453852881&sr=8-2&keywords=stanley+storage+boxes
  
  You could also use needle nose pliers to help you with your leads when trying to get them in your post holes.
  
  
  PSA: Buy the protective tube with your ceramic tweezers. It will shatter your heart to see the tips break if the tweezers are dropped.
  
  You could just buy the coil master kit but I'm not a very big fan of it because you can only store what comes with the kit (no room to expand your tool selection)
  
  
  
  

I Work as a Purchaser/reciever and open boxes and envelopes all day and I LOVE my Gerber It takes disposable blades that the office buys so its always sharp. It looks good, compact, and its cheep so if someone nicks it I wont be too upset.

I'd prefer the Tamron 90 2.8 macro because it gives you a bit more working distance. But you can shoot with that on pretty much any consumer body. I'd want to have a 50 1.8 (The standard lens) and a 90 2.8, plus a light tent, on a Rebel body for products. Depending on the size of the products two fixed lights could be fine.

The big feature I like for that sort of photography would be a fold out screen. So the 70D could be an option as well.

For what it's worth, the company I work for, a major niche ecommerce retailer, uses a 7D (Original) with the 18-135, 50 1.8, and a macro lens with primarily fixed lighting like this ( http://smile.amazon.com/Bayco-SL-300-Clamp-Aluminum-Reflector/dp/B007RKKEHA/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1418920997&sr=1-5&keywords=dish+work+light ) and a light tent.

Grab a nice starter knife. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004GATX62/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That knife and a few blocks of basswood was enough to make me fall in love in carving. If you decide you like it and want to start carving more details into your works you can grab some chisels.

https://www.amazon.com/Power-Carving-Tools-Seven-Piece/dp/B0037MI3K2/ref=s9u_simh_gw_i4?_encoding=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pd_rd_i=B0037MI3K2&pd_rd_r=BGGJB52PAYA1T0HS96E0&pd_rd_w=rod12&pd_rd_wg=6RHP4&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=1P6DCGHZDPEYM542SBQ7&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=781f4767-b4d4-466b-8c26-2639359664eb&pf_rd_i=desktop

Which stanley's are you looking at? I have these and I love them. I prefer the handle shape/size of these over the narex. Both have great reviews. I never considered the Irwin chisels because I didn't like the handle.

Yes. You definitely should make sure you mount everything with the correct torque. I recommend the Wheeler Fat Wrench for installing scopes, mounts, etc.

Not that exciting, I can guarantee you but still a sweet sweet freeby :
http://www.amazon.com/SE-MT908-Function-Credit-Survival/dp/B000Q06LI4

It is useful, although I still have no idea how to use the sun component. The saw works surprisingly well, and the can opener.

Edit: Here's the amazon link for more info. Pretty cheap there.

I bought a nice little hand drill on amazon. It’s great for these things. I use it mostly to drill out the joints in hands and arms to glue in magnets. But there are some tiny drill bits that you can use for the gun barrels.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010BV7190/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RM61CbE51FS4D

Get a Patch Panel, a Punch Down tool, a ethernet crimper, some ethernet ends (i prefer the EZ, but they are pricy), and a network tester. All that for $70 and you can terminate and troubleshoot all the cables you desire!

My personal kit is a little more expensive, but really the only thing I wouldn't trade for a cheaper tool is the tester. Crimper, Punchdown, Tester.

I really like the Kershaw OSO Sweet knife. For it's price I think it's tops. It even competes with $50-$60 knifes that I own.

Leatherman sidekick is a great multitool. $45.

For just a knife the Spyderco Tenacious is a fantastic folder for the price at $35.