Nvenc Streaming PC

• High Settings 1080p
  
• Apex Legends: 134fps
  
• Fortnite: 127fps
  
• Overwatch: 178fps
  
• Battlefield V: 130fps
  
• CSGO: 268fps
  
• Assassin's Creed Odyssey (proxy for the most demanding games): 80fps
  
• Full benchmarks
  
• Streaming fps:
  
• Nvenc (gpu) encoding will reduce FPS by about 16% in Fortnite, and up to about ~25% in some other games.
  
• This is much better than x264 (cpu) encoding which loses a significantly higher percentage of fps as you can see from the link above.
  
• All Nvidia cards from the Pascal and Turing series (10XX and 20XX) have dedicated Nvenc encoding modules. All cards from the same generation have the same encoding power.
  
• Windows 10:
  
• Use Microsoft's Windows 10 creation tool to get free unactivated Windows 10.
  
• The only downside is a watermark in the bottom corner of your screen (and it won't show up on stream).
  
• You can always activate windows later if you choose.
  
• Micro Center Parts
  
• CPU + motherboard
  
• SSD
  

• HDD
  

  
  

  PCPartPicker Part List
  

  
  

  Type|Item|Price
  

  ----|:----|:----
  CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor | $204.98
  Motherboard | Gigabyte - B450 AORUS M Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $0.00
  Memory | *GeIL - EVO POTENZA 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $69.99 @ Newegg
  Storage | Intel - 660p Series 512 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $59.99
  Storage | Western Digital - Mainstream 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $39.99
  Video Card | EVGA - GeForce RTX 2060 6 GB XC BLACK GAMING Video Card | $329.99 @ Newegg
  Case | Cooler Master - MasterBox Q300 MicroATX Mini Tower Case | $39.99 @ Amazon
  Power Supply | *Corsair - TXM Gold 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply | $53.98 @ Newegg
  Case Fan | ARCTIC - Arctic F14 PWM 77.3 CFM 140 mm Fan | $8.99 @ Amazon
  | Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
  | Total (before mail-in rebates) | $847.90
  | Mail-in rebates | -$40.00
  | Total | $807.90
  | *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria |
  | Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-05-15 22:31 EDT-0400 |
  
  Explanation of Part Choices
  
  

• CPU: Best value cpu in the mid range. Comes with a good stock cooler that is strong enough for a mild overclock. Overclocking allows your cpu to run faster than its factory clock speed, enabling you to get a bit of extra performance. This will increase temperatures and voltage requirements, so heavy overclocking requires an aftermarket cpu cooler and a motherboard with good voltage regulator modules (VRMs).
  
• Motherboard: One of the best entry-level motherboards. Has 2 fan headers and VRMs that are strong enough for a respectable overclock on the 2600, especially with the airflow this case will have. See the AMD VRMs tier list.
  
• Memory: 3000mhz is the price/performance sweet spot for Ryzen cpus. 16GB standard.
  
• Storage: Standard Choices. SSD has a dram cache which is important for the lifespan and speed of the OS drive. It is an nvme drive which is faster than standard SATA SSDs, and it is currently cheaper than SATA SSDs. 5 year warranty.
  
• Video Card: Strongest that fits the budget. I chose the cheapest standard sized card.
  
• Case: Most popular microATX case. Has a side window, magnetic dust filters, and comes with one exhaust fan. I've added one high-quality intake fan (pressure optimized to pull air through the filters) to ensure good airflow.
  
• Power Supply: 7 year warranty. 550W is more than enough for this 269W system while still leaving plenty of room for overclocking. Modular for easier cable management. 80+ gold efficiency.
  
• Monitor Suggestion:
  
• 144hz 24" Sceptre curved monitor: This is the cheapest 144hz 1ms monitor that has a large sample size of good reviews. You want 144hz because of all of the shooters you are playing.
  
• Display Port Cable: You need one of these or a dvi cable in order to get 144hz to the monitor. HDMI won't work.

Assuming you are talking about R-Pi, v3b.

All 32 bit and lower works flawlessly. This includes but is not limited to Genisis, GB, GBC, GBA, NES, SNES, PSX.

N64 is the most commonly discussed as it has a large library of great games that are also often 4x multiplayer. Most games work very well (e.g. Mario Kart), while some do not (in particular 007 Goldeneye).

Hardware:

• Raspberry Pi 3 - $36
  
• Samsung EVO 32GB Class 10 Micro SDHC - $11
  
• CanaKit 5V 2.5A Raspberry Pi 3 Power Supply - $10
  
• Addicore Raspberry Pi Heatsink Set - $5
  
• AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable - 3 Feet - $5
  
• Official Raspberry Pi 3 Case - $8
  
  
  Total cost so far, $75. You can get a less expensive case that also comes with the heat sinks bringing your cost down to ~$65.
  
  Cheap right? Well, the one thing that is going to cost you the most in any of these builds is the controllers.
  
  I like:
  
  
• 8BITDO NES30 Pro Wireless Bluetooth Controller - $49 (x4).
  
  When I first bought them, they were $36 each, and I love them. They work really well via the Pi's built in Bluetooth.
  
  Another great option that works really well are the XBOX-360 controllers. Wired ones run you $27 each brand new, and wireless are $34/each, plus one adapter for the set.
  
  
  In other words, four good controllers are going to run you $100-$200. Which is the bulk of most builds. In a childs-only build, I am considering either wired XBOX-360 controllers because of their awesome cord break-away feature, or going even less expensive with the $12 SNES clones, though that eliminates the ability to play N64 and PSX.

I have a triple monitor set up as cheaply as it can be done.
For the graphics card it must have eyefinity (im 90% about this, there may be exceptions but I don't know them). I don't think it works with nvidia quite yet so go ati.
I have a xfx 5830 that you can get for $130. My monitors out are an hdmi to one monitor, dvi to the second monitor, and to the oldest monitor I have an active display port to vga.

This last step is important and I will explain why it has to be active and to vga to stay cheap;

The reason it has to be active is because you already have 2 digital signals in the form of HDMI and DVI, so it has to convert it.

The reason it has to be VGA is because it uses less power and is easier to do so it doesn't need to be powered and MOST importantly, this adapter costs $25 for active displayport->vga compared to ~$100 for active to DVI.

My monitors are not all at the same resolution so I can't do the thing where it recognizes it as 1 huge screen. It is 3 seperate screens that I can control the positions of in ATI catalyst control center (the software side of the drivers... or something that comes with the GPU).

I am not sure about using both the DVI's and then the adapter that I link/ed but I don't see why not as the GPU sees the 3 ports as pick any two. Doesn't really matter as im sure at least 1 of the 1080 monitors has an hdmi cord.


Any other questions feel free to ask, and here is the link to the adapter that you need its not porn its just the link with a false name

side note; since doing my last batch of research, it seems there may be a chance of an active displayport to dvi... due to this product. May be irrelevant as i assume that the old monitor doesn't have dvi, but for anybody else.

it says "Connect a Single-Mode DisplayPort Enabled Computer to a DVI-D Monitor, TV or Projector" so it kinda sounds like it won't work with multiple monitors by the single mode statement... but not sure

Depends on how involved you want to get. Here it's all a matter of aesthetics, and if you want it to look good, you've gotta do the work. Fortunately, I did it for the first time myself, and it looks good and is worth it.

1. Take the TV off the mount. Go into the attic and assess the area directly above the fireplace. Should be easy to find based on the chimney, but if not (and there aren't any wires or duct work above it), drill a small hole in your ceiling right in the center of the fireplace, and poke a straightened wire coat hanger into it. This will penetrate the insulation and give you a good point of reference.
   
   
2. Buy and install a combo recessed plug and cable plate. If there's not much room behind the drywall, you can get shallower versions.
   
   
3. Run electrical power (12/2 Romex is sufficient for a flat screen) and a single long HDMI cable to your box. Wiring sounds difficult, but with a fish tape and a paddle bit, it's actually not that bad. DIY Network has a writeup here. If you're unsure of local code, or don't want to mess with electricity, you could run the power cable to the box, and then have a local electrician tap into an existing line with capacity (this should be much cheaper than having them do the whole job).
   
   
4. Run the other end of the HDMI cable to wherever you want your source boxes to be. Ours are in our coat closet. Use either an A/V switching receiver or an HDMI switch to control the source. Yes, modern TV's have multiple HDMI ports on the back, but for a clean and easy installation, doing 1 cable to the TV, and then switching at the sources is a much better solution than running a new cable through the attic for each device.
   
   Good luck.

cc /u/onastyinc

AFAIK most adapters are limited to 60hz.

>Can I use a DisplayPort to Dual-Link DVI passive adapter / cable?

>>No. DisplayPort to Dual-Link DVI passive adapters / cables do not actually exist. Even though most DisplayPort to DVI adapters you see for sale are labeled as "Dual-Link", all of these are fake, they are only Single-Link DVI adapters in disguise.

>>The DisplayPort connector has 20 pins, which means it can be used as a Single-Link DVI-D port via a passive adapter. However, Dual-Link DVI requires 25 pins, so a DisplayPort connector does not have enough pins to emulate a Dual-Link DVI connection. The additional DVI pins on "DisplayPort to Dual-Link DVI" adapters are not connected to anything at all, they are just for show, for marketing purposes. It is nothing but a Single-Link DVI-D adapter dressed up to appear like a Dual-Link DVI-D adapter.

https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/729232-guide-to-display-cables-adapters-v2/?section=high_refresh_displays

*Edit: Found in the same section

If your computer does not have a native Dual-Link DVI output, then the only other way of getting a Dual-Link DVI connection is with a DisplayPort to Dual-Link DVI active adapter. Please note that not just any DP-to-DVI active adapter will work; it must be a Dual-Link DVI active adapter. There are active adapters which only support Single-Link DVI, intended for multi-monitor configurations on some older AMD graphics cards (detailed here), and these adapters will not work for 1080p 120+ Hz.

DisplayPort to Dual-Link DVI active adapters tend to be unreliable, and should only be used as a last resort if you have no other method of connecting. If you have not purchased your monitor yet I suggest you do not buy the XL2411Z or GN246HL, but instead get a monitor that has a DisplayPort input.

I have tested this adapter to work up to 1920 × 1080 @ 144 Hz:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DYRQXMK/
However, at 144 Hz I did experience loss of signal when turning the monitor off and then on again, or putting the computer to sleep and waking it up again. I did not experience any issues when running at 1080p 120 Hz instead though.

As always, active adapters tend to be very finicky and I cannot guarantee that the adapter will behave the same on your system. My testing was done with an AOC G2460PF and a Radeon RX 480 and GeForce GTX 1080.

This is probably the wrong subreddit to state this is, but I've been having a great time just doing this on my phone. Plus my Snapdragon S4 Pro is smoother than the Tegra 3 in the Ouya. Admittedly, in the end the price (not including the phone) is similar to Ouya, though.

• Nexus 4
  
  
• SlimPort to HDMI adapter
  
  
• Dualshock 3 controller
  
  
• Sixaxis Controller app
  
  
• NES.emu
  
  I really like the setup. I think it's a big plus to be able to play any game on the Play Store this way (with appropriate touch mapping profiles, if necessary) or sideload any game, like Humble Bundle.
  
  That said, I really think Ouya's heart is in the right place, it would just have to deliver performance closer to what I'd expect from a tv-dedicated console. If it had a Snapdragon 800 SoC, I'd snatch one up in a heartbeat.
  
  Edit: Reading other posts on here, it appears you can sideload .apks to Ouya. I guess my only complaint is the aforementioned SoC.

There's an $80 converter that Wacom officially said works, but I'm also currently looking to resolve this exact issue for my fiance and her laptop, and have found a POSSIBLE solution ( https://www.amazon.com/uni-Thunderbolt-Compatible-MacBook-Pixelbook/dp/B075V5JK36/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519980480&sr=1-8&keywords=USB-C+to+HDMI ), and just posted here asking if people think this solution would work. It's a lot cheaper solution, and when you invest that much into something, you want to save as much as you can after! Lol. If I hear back before I see a response here, I'll definitely let you know!

Fantastic, this is very helpful!! Regarding your monitor setup: what exactly is the DisplayPotI? I have two monitors, and I believe each can be connected either via HDMI or VGA, so I suppose either option would work. So I'm assuming I'm looking for a cable that goes USB-C to either HDMI or VGA? Ands also, since its two displays, I would need to use both USB-C ports on the MB, right? and I also need one available for charging. which means I wouldn't have one available to connect the hub? Or I could use one USB-C to HDMI adapter for one monitor, and HDMI (from hub) to HDMI I suppose. Well in any case, I think I've got enough good information to go off of with your recommendations and find something that meets my needs. As long as the hub can support my monitors and mouse (and preferably keyboard), and be as easy as plugging in one cable into the laptop, than it seems like a cheaper and equally as easy alternative to a dock. Thanks again!

Edit: So I found these, based on your suggestion. Different brands, but I'm thinking going with either:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079DM6VH8/ref=sspa_dk_detail_5?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B079DM6VH8&pd_rd_wg=lSUHl&pd_rd_r=H0VWS7K7YZYMZG9R9GXR&pd_rd_w=C5GGs

or

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076TJ7ZTH/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B076TJ7ZTH&pd_rd_wg=lSUHl&pd_rd_r=H0VWS7K7YZYMZG9R9GXR&pd_rd_w=C5GGs

for a hub. Not sure if one seems better than the other.

and then for the second monitor,

https://www.amazon.com/uni-Thunderbolt-Compatible-MacBook-Pixelbook/dp/B075V5JK36/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526664882&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+-c+to+hdmi

I think this should work, and allow it so that all I need to do is connect the hub, just as easily as docking it I would think, to make it my desktop

I have been battling this issue since release day of the Apple TV 4k...I have an LG 55" C7P...encountered screen flicker as well as issues not receiving 5.1 audio from the optical out of the TV to my SONOS 5.1 setup (but when ATV 4k was set to stereo, I would always get audio).

The LG native netflix app worked perfectly for me (audio, 4K, and HDR wise), but there are simply not enough native LG apps (HBO GO, etc).

I was using an amazon basics high speed HDMI cable seen here (as well as others rated as high speed and 4k/60p compatible):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8SX4Y/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

no matter what HDMI input - 1/2(ARC)/3/4 - the issue persisted...sometimes I would get audio for a while at 5.1 and then, bam just silence. The Trumotion settings to 0,0 mostly mitigated my flickering issues, but not entirely.

After purchasing Deadpool (4K with HDR and 5.1 audio) on iTunes and being forced to watch in stereo only last night...because 5.1 simply wouldn't take no matter what I did...

I finally called Apple today (11/11/17), and they advised me to take it into the store...long story short, I have a replacement I can pickup next week when it comes in, but left with my unit... The Apple guy suggested that I try a new HDMI cable 'for the Apple TV 4K'. I am very much aware that 'most' modern HDMI cables should be 'good enough'...BUT, this is a new Dolby Vision certified cable made by Belkin out recently:

http://www.belkin.com/us/AV10175-Belkin/p/P-AV10175/

https://www.apple.com/shop/product/HLL52ZM/A/belkin-ultra-high-speed-4k-hdmi-cable-2m

defined as Ultra High Speed HDMI, and supports true 4k resolutions up to 4096x2160 and bandwidth of up to 48 Gbps per Apple's site. Previous high speed cables are NOT Dolby Vision certified, and they are rated up to 18Gbps. Now 48Gbps is an enormous amount of data, and that's likely not the reason I am typing this post...BUT:

I am 30 mins in to testing (iTunes content as well as Dolby Vision on Netflix Apple TV 4K app)...and so far, this cable seems to have been the solution...what's frustrating is that the HDMI cable market is not easily navigable...UHD/4K/HDR/HFR, all of this adds to the confusion...IMHO apple should have bundled this cable for an extra 10USD to avoid various threads throughout the world wide web that discuss this issue...it's very much known, and I think everyone that is having the flicker, or stereo only audio problem with 30 USD to spare could save lots of heart burn, headache and time enjoying their TV 4k (instead of scouring forums for solutions) by picking up this cable.

YES - it's quite frustrating to have to drop another 30 dollars for this setup to work properly...but I've easily spent that in time scouring for solutions. [sigh]

Big Picture is just an interface - a different way to view the same list of games. If you are running the Big Picture steam client beta, you can access Big Picture on your desktop PC by launching steam and clicking the Big Picture logo in the corner. So yes, you need a dedicated PC attached to your TV if you want to use Big Picture on your TV. The performance of the games accessed via the Big Picture interface should only vary if your tv or cabling has greater latency than your PC monitor.

Personally, I bought a 50 foot HDMI cable to connect my PC to my TV when they were in separate rooms and it worked great. This is the first I've heard of HDMI over ethernet - that sounds pretty cool! I suppose it's really only useful if you plan on exceeding 50 feet of HDMI or if you have in wall Ethernet cabling already installed in your home. No idea how it would effect latency.

As for controllers, if you are exceeding 10 feet, going through walls, etc, then you are going to have trouble with many bluetooth devices. This is a problem I was never able to fully solve, and now my PC is next to my TV so it's no longer an issue for me. When it was, I usually used my 360 controller as my primary input device while on the couch, as I typically only played on the couch when I wanted to kick back and mash some buttons. I'd recommend getting a wireless 360 controller receiver. Mine worked fine traveling about 20 feet through 2 walls with no noticeable performance issues.

Ah - I hadn't considered putting them horizontally, I had pictured you doing a 2x2 screen setup.

I understand not wanting the laptop screen.

You mentioned very long horizontal screens. They exist, from several manufacturers. Whereas Mac laptop screens are usually in a 16:10 ratio (width:height), these are in 21:9, which is what cinemas use.

Some examples are the ASUS MX299Q, LG 25UM65, LG 34UM65, Dell U2913WM. That's just what came up from a quick search of "Ultra wide monitor" on Amazon. They're in some different sizes, but usually ultrawides are 2560x1080 in resolution.

I'm not sure if that's enough to fit all four decks on.

You could do two ultrawides, which should be more than enough. I think some software will let you divide a panel into two separate virtual displays, if that makes managing the decks easier.

Which Mac are you using? I'm guessing it's probably a MacBook Air or a non-retina pro, since you don't mention HDMI.

If you decide to opt for more than one display, it is possible to run multiple off just one displayport connection. You'll need a displayport hub, but make sure it's not just a splitter, but one that lets you run multi monitor. Something like this:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-DisplayPort-Triple-Multi-Monitor/dp/B00JLRBC7S/

EVGA makes a displayport splitter that's quite popular and reliable as well.

Great thread and thanks for sharing! I'm ordering some of what you listed.. :)

Here is what I have already purchased and am using:

Mini tripods for the base stations as I haven't set them up permanently yet:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006I1KQQI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wireless headset so I don't have to deal with the audio cable:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZC3S72I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Active HDMI cable as I'm running off my PC from the bedroom in my livingroom:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0186DNFLI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Active USB 2.0 cable again as I'm running off my PC from the bedroom in my livingroom:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PLLA9U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also just ordered a set of 7' tripods for mounting the base stations:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNZJLG4/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yeah, if you want a fuzzy picture you pleb.

HDMI cables just like Motherboards aren't something you go cheap with unless you're a moron that likes regret.

Get one of these and you wont regret it. Make sure to get the 4 year warranty unless you like feeling like a fucking tool.

Edit: Don't believe me? read this Q+A.

Question: We are talking 'digital' audio, correct? 1's and 0's ... not analogue audio that really benifits from serious quality??!!!!

Answer: This cable is such good quality that it supports the transferrence of 0's, 1's and 2's. Also it transports dark matter at beyond the speed of dark matter. So good in fact that CERN have scrapped the Hadron Collider and replaced it with one of these cables.

I'm in high school as well and I'm planning to do something like this but I don't want to buy stuff I don't necessary need. Basically the idea to have the Mac on a stand while next to the monitor (which is on a stand as well) is connected to it. There are also speakers, and I'll be using an old keyboard that I have (usb) as well as a bluetooth mouse.

So far this is what I'm thinking:

Laptop stand: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OOYECC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

USB Hub: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JX1ZS5O/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A29Y8OP2GPR7PE

Basic speakers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GHY5F3K/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

HDMI Cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8SIJY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Thunderbolt to HDMI Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DRK2ZIK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1AMUYYA3CT6HJ

And finally, the monitor: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IA9FXAO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I haven't decided nor found a good stand for the monitor so if anyone can help that'd be great. Also, anybody else can comment, I was just seeing if this was buying too much or is there an easier way. I have a nrMBP mid 2012 13'' for reference.

Come to think of it I don't think you have control over your drivers, Macs are locked down and you only get what Apple serves via the Apple Update Center or whatever it's called.

Are you using the HDMI cable that was included in the box? (If one was?)If you're not you could be using an older standard HDMI cable which doesn't have enough bandwidth.

I'm very surprised to see that monitor only has one input.

Is your adapter an actual cable or do you have a box converting a mini displayport into HDMI?

I feel like the issue lays somewhere in your connection method or cable, do you have pictures or model numbers of the adapter perhaps? Did you buy it recently? Is it really old?

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Mini-DisplayPort-HDMI-Cable/dp/B0134V3KIA/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1536211484&sr=1-3&keywords=mini+displayport+to+hdmi

You'll see this cable above only supports up to 1920x1080 at 60hz

https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-Mini-DisplayPort-Cable-Ready/dp/B00YONKZ72/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1536211484&sr=1-6&keywords=mini+displayport+to+hdmi

This one supports up to 4K

This would be an ideal straight connection from your laptop to the screen. If you're using an adapter box as well you'd need to check that is built to transmit HDMI 1.4 as well, the cable is cheap enough you should just do a direct connection.

I had endless problems with USB. Problem is it's different for everyone, many are fine with just their Motherboard's.


What I can tell you, if you want to run extension cables, the money no object solution (the only thing that go everything working acceptably for me) is the following:


Startech PEXUSB3S44V

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00HJZEA2S


Also, found many of the recommended cables hit and miss but Ugreen's have been excellent. Always use the shortest you can.


For 2m I have these on one sensor and one on the Rift itself:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00P0ES0YE


I also have 1m and 3m version on my other two sensors.


To go with the 2m extension to the Rift (only if needed obvious) I used (again Ugreen):

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00A30FLE2


Best of luck. Look forward to seeing you in there

Hey all, I made a post last week wherein I said I would elaborate on my gaming setup, so here it is. Disclaimer: This is by far not the most practical or pretty setup, but it works for us and we improve on it when we can.


This TV is normally mounted to the wall of my friend’s bedroom. Luckily the mount allows for the TV to be unhooked fairly easily, and we place it on the dining room table on top of a towel so that it won’t scratch the table. We also wedge some books under it to keep it balanced. The TV is connected to the Laptop with an HDMI cable and a USB-C adapter


The TV is set up as an additional display orientated vertically towards the DM. We drag the window of the photoshop file on that display and keep the workstation part on the first screen, so the DM can can keep info about the map hidden. Last session our DM had traps hidden on a different layer, so when we sprung them he would unhide them and reveal a pit trap or a plume of fire. We also keep a layer of black with a layer mask on areas of the dungeon we haven't explored yet, that way the DM can erase away and reveal those sections to us. Sometimes he will keep the opacity on 50% to mimic dim light or use grey for a thick fog.


We also place a sheet of clear plastic to cover the TV to protect it from our miniatures. The DM screen holds index cards with characters’ names and AC on them which we use for initiative.


If you have a question then just reply to this comment. I will try to answer as many as I can.

Buy something like this:

http://amzn.com/B00005MDZD

Turn on your PS2 without a disc inside. You can set the output to be CYMK and widescreen. It looks great and clear on an HDTV.

I used a cable like this to get a really nice-looking FF12 session. Some games support true HD settings.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_PlayStation_2_games_with_HD_support

Might be a bit short for your needs, but here is the ultra cheap option that works without issue for me (and can be done through Amazon, so easy returns if it doesn't work, cables state they do work so return is free).

I bought all these via Amazon UK, but can be bought from Amazon US

Amazon basics CL3 25feet HDMI

https://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-2-0-Cable/dp/B014I8TC4E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484771738&sr=8-2&keywords=25foot+hdmi

10 Meter Active USB 2 extension cable (I just bought the cheapest one, I think any well reviewed one will do the job)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B011RCUH1G/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also bought 8m of 1/2inch braied cable sleeve.

This runs from the PC to the breakout box and I then just plug the breakout box in in the room I play my Vive.

Look at /r/retropie - it's more focused on these projects.

At minimum, you'll want: a [Raspberry Pi 3 ($35)](
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CD5VC92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Sb.pzbAZKNASG), a case ($7-$20), a power supply ($10), an HDMI cable ($7), one or two controllers ($15-$30 each), and a micro SD card ($22 for a Class 10 64 GB). There are a lot of threads about which controllers are best - I'm a fan of the wireless 8bitdo SNES30 / SFC30 (usually cheaper on eBay).

You don't need any programming experience to set it up, though you may need to edit some configuration files to set certain things up properly. I've built 2 of these to date - they play anything up to and including PlayStation 1 consistently well. N64 is very hit and miss, though Mario Kart 64 and Kirby 64 work well.

nvidia took adaptive sync, added a frame buffer module to the monitor. that is it. the "benefits" are all but marketing bullshit (which you apparently are dumb enough to not only believe but fight others over)

>I really don't know why people try to sell these cards for their preferred company

LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOL

the fact you ACTUALLY think gsync has REAL benefits over freesync is so insane, its almost not even funny. its almost to the point of sad. i almost pity you.

>There's no point in having a conversation with someone who doesn't bother to google basic facts and instantly downvotes a reply.
Have a good day, and I hope you learn to research things a bit more.

LOOOOOOOOL

you must be seriously mentally ill... you say i dont research, yet its you who doesnt research anything. reading the nvidia marketing page is not research...............

>Would Freesync even exist if it wasn't for that? Give Nvidia credit for the innovation and the better solution.

do you remember you said this? amd could never have created freesync without nvidia and nvidia deserves credit for inventing it.

the real knee slapper here is you said

>I guess that proprietary gsync hardware module does nothing.

and you didnt put /s. and in reality, its 100% true, it really does nothing. so you just argued against your self, using a valid point when you meant it sarcastically.


btw hey. i have some hdmi cables which are vastly superior to other hdmi cables.
https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

please buy them. they are actually better than any other hdmi cable on the market (like seriously). im seriously being serious. they are the highest quality hdmi cables, and are better than all other hdmi cables. just because you will never ever notice any difference between this and an $8 hdmi cable doesnt matter. they are scientifically better. (wait a second. its almost as if its the same thing with gsync. omg then your entire argument would be wrong. omg. mind blown). i know, it may take a little while for your brain to reboot after such a huge epiphany.

Thats a DVI-DP though, wont support more than 60Hz.

This is what we are looking for:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003XYBA72/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1467248167&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=dvi+dual+dp&dpPl=1&dpID=41eyIQM33ML&ref=plSrch

The USB works as a power source, I don't really know the internal setup, but I'm pretty sure there should be diagrams with the scheme explaining the differences, single DVI is basically just a rearrangement of wires for the new pins, whilst the DVI-D draws power to extra lines. I've been thinking about making one myself.

Ha! Found one: http://lookanotherblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/ADC-DVI_Wiring.png

https://gehrcke.de/wp/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/2000px-DVI_pinout.svg_.png

http://pinoutsguide.com/Video/DisplayPort_pinout.shtml

It looks like its doable if you have experience with making components.

edit: more info added.

Anything above 2m will probably give you problems with the HDMI unless it includes a repeater, I tried but screen blacked out every 30 seconds or something for a few seconds. I tried many different cables but ended up using the below setup to extend mine about 5m, and have worked perfect ever since:


- https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rankie-Type-Male-Cable-Black/dp/B01KXAZNEE/

- https://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-2-0-Cable/dp/B014I8T8FC/

- https://www.vive.com/eu/accessory/link-box/

​

...then you need an power adapter for the link box as it comes without!

(The Vive link box works perfectly for Oculus also!)

Purchase List:

Optoma HD27 1080p 3D DLP Home Theater Projector - amazing image quality and extremely bright - can almost watch the screen with all the lights on: https://www.amazon.com/Optoma-HD27-1080p-Theater-Projector/dp/B01JR7G672

Homegear 100” HD Motorized 16:9 Projector Screen W/ Remote Control - works very well, packaged and arrived in great condition: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J22TNRI

Yamaha RX-V379BL 5.1-Channel A/V Receiver with Bluetooth: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V5VJ3TM

2 ELAC B6 Debut Series 6.5" L & R Speakers by Andrew Jones: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014GSEQ06

1 ELAC C5 Debut Series 5.25" Center Speaker by Andrew Jones: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014GSEQWE

AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8TC4E

Monoprice Affinity Premium 14AWG Braided Speaker Wire: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015YN6G9G

VideoSecu 2 Heavy duty PA DJ Club Adjustable Height Satellite Speaker Stand Mount: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VRREPG

Projector Mount - VideoSecu LCD/DLP Projector Ceiling Mount Bracket: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IDC0K2

2x LED Lighting for Bar/Couch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V27VX7E

Yep. Sounds like the hub is being overloaded. I don't use a USB hub at all but I do use a good quality extension cable, this one specifically: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I plug one end directly into a USB 2.0 port on my PC and plug the breakout box into the other end. I use this HDMI cable going from my video card to the back of the breakout box:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0186DNFLI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(Must be active like this cable)

Zero issues with this setup and I have my Vive connected from my office computer to my living room.

i don't think you get it

the adapter in op's image is for DVI-D which is DIGITAL only, therefor the adapter in op's image literally would not work, as you can't passivley convert digital to analouge, you need an active adapter, which are bigger

here's an example of an active adapter:

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Active-Female-Adapter/dp/B012DLMS1W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1453499993&sr=8-2&keywords=dvi-d+to+vga+active

if this was what op had, it would work great

if you want to use a passive adapter for dvi to vga, you'd need your dvi port to be dvi-i, at which point you'd need a dvi-i to vga adapter (which still isn't what op has, the adapter op has literally would never work ever)

here's an example of a passive dvi-i to vga adapter:

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Female-Connector-Black-DVIVGAMFBK/dp/B004G3WCLM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1453500177&sr=8-4&keywords=dvi-i+to+vga

The only legit Slimport I know of is this one. It's almost 3 times that of a MHL (since they don't work on our N4's) but there aren't too many manufacturers that make the Slimport. Trust me, i've looked around. Plus, it looks like Amazon restocked this model. It was sold out for awhile and people that had one, marked up the price to almost three to six times of the original.

http://www.amazon.com/SlimPort%C2%AE-SP1002-Connect-connector--Supports/dp/B009UZBLSG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370465301&sr=8-1&keywords=Slimport

I bought this one.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NQ9OQU2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Why? I don't know. I figured I might buy a 4K TV, and maybe a Scorpio, at some point so I should have a cable ready. When I bought it the price was $11.

I doubt anyone but the most lazy/uninformed people actually buy Monster brand cables when they buy a TV. Best Buy employees probably talk them into it and they don't bother to check for better prices.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B014I8T8FC/

This one works (I have this) but it's only 15 feet (if that's any good to you).

It's on the UK store but I'm sure you could get it too as it's from the Amazon Basics range.

EDIT: Just noticed they do a 25ft one now as well. I'm sure it wasn't there before :)

Here is a budget setup
1x HDMI Cable - https://amzn.com/B014I8TC4E
1x Logitech camera that will sit on top of your TV - https://amzn.com/B0040508OY
1x USB hub https://amzn.com/B00XMD7KPU that will plug into users PC
1x USB cable extension for Camera to USB hub - https://amzn.com/B00NH12O5I
1x Yeti microphone - https://amzn.com/B00N1YPXW2
1x USB Cable extension for Yeti microphone to USB hub - https://amzn.com/B00NH12O5I

Might have to get some stuff for cable management and get some cheap video adapters on Amazon, but this setup is like $300 max. Also, I would write up some good documentation and have it available in the room at all times. You will have to create some kind of documentation either way with any expensive solutions you find (Polycom trio, Logitech etc..).

I just helped a friend of mine build his own, it's very easy to put together yourself. Here's our component list, that you may find helpful.

Raspberry Pi 3B

Flirc Raspberry Pi Case Gen2

8Bitdo Sn30 Bluetooth Gamepad

SanDisk 32GB Micro SD

AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable

NorthPada RPi3 Power Supply

Of course, there are many different cases and controllers you can use, you don't need to buy these specifically but it'll give you a good idea what you need to get started and what it will cost you when all is said and done. This is also assuming you just want something to play on TV. If you are a building a handheld, that's a different beast.

Looks like you won't be going quite as far, but I had a lot of trouble trying to get 4K@60Hz 4:4:4 going about 20-ish feet (a hair over 6 meters) when I upgraded my PC's screen from one that only did 4K@30Hz.

Spoiler: the cheaper option I hesitated on worked the best.

I tried Monoprice active/directional and passive/non-directional cables and would have tried something from Blue Jeans Cable had they carried a long enough HDMI cable that they rated capable of handling the task. The original, several years old cable I had produced nothing but static. The Monoprice cables created green "sparkles" over the image. I almost moved my PC into my office, too, but at the last minute I tried an Amazon Basics cable and it has worked perfectly, even allowing me to turn on HDR10 with no trouble.

Here's the exact cable I bought (copy/pasted from my purchase history):
AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable - 25 Feet (Latest Standard) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014I8TC4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-jkgzb1FZXZRE

Not sure if "cord commander" (awesome name btw) is the same as Cable Guardian but yes, I can also highly recommend a ceiling setup if possible. I built mine with these: Keychains, HDMI extension, USB extension

I have also crafted a solution for the keychain HMD pull issue, and will be posting pics and instructions when I get them prepared.

This. That particular item is currently marked as unavailable, but many apparently identical ones seem to be out there.

Worked perfectly whenever I've used it, although some apps won't display over an HDMI interface. Pretty sure that's a limitation of the app rather than the device, though.

I use a 15ft active USB cable, 3ft displayport to hdmi adapter, 15ft active hdmi cable, and a link box in between. With my Lenovo explorer. Works perfectly. Holds 90fps. And no static or anything. I use the bluetooth on the link box.

Plugable Active DisplayPort to... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S0C7QO8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014I8T8FC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Cable Matters USB 3.0 Cable (USB... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSS9LEI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

HTC Vive Link Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXR6DKV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

AC to DC 12V 1.5A 12V1.5A Power... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018JL0YIY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Well, you go ahead and "invest" in a small 4k TV that you sit 10 feet away from.

To make sure you enjoy the picture quality improvements, I suggest you buy these, to optimize your "investment":

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

Yes i am doing but for now it will have to do, thanks for the help

Edit: Does this one look ok? It has the right mount of pins on both ends.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/DVI-I-Dual-15Pin-Cable-1-45m/dp/B005GMTWGU

or maybe this one: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004G3WCLM

None, except price. HDMI will either work or not. HDMI 2.0 offers a bandwidth of 18GBps which is what you need. Just make sure you have a faster internet connection (Netflix says 30 Mbps is good to view their Ultra streams) and all the necessary items turned on with your display or streaming devices, and that your connected to the proper inputs on your display that are set up for 4K (all the inputs on your B6P can do this. By the way, that is one of the best 4K sets out their right now. Congrats). These are the cables that owner's of your display are using according to the thread over at AVS Forum-https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-Cable-Standard/dp/B014I8SX4Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478189676&sr=8-1&keywords=Amazon+basic+18gbps+HDMI+cables
If you want tons of info about everything about your display read their forum thread. It's really great. http://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-oled-technology-flat-panels-general/2426314-2016-lg-c6-b6-owners-thread.html
I almost pulled the trigger on this display after seeing the price drop but decided to wait. Enjoy your purchase.

These worked well for me, but if you need to go over 25 feet you're going to need an active HDMI cable instead:

• AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable - 25 Feet (Latest Standard)
  
  
• IOGEAR USB 2.0 4-Port 164' USB Extender Over Cat5/Cat5e/Cat6 Ethernet Cable (GUCE64)
  
  The 4 port USB extender worked out great because I can have the Vive, my Xbox controller, and my USB headphones all hooked into it with a plug to spare.
  
  
  
  

Thank you very much for the thorough answer.

So, Goobay, PureLink or Belkin, right? What I found odd is that, looking at the Goobay cable's specs, it says that all versions support YCbCr 4:4:2 and 4:4:4, but only the premium one supports 4:2:0.

I believe my TV has a 8 bit panel, but supports 10 bit HDR, something like that. Anyway, it's an entry model, so I'll stick to 8 bit.

Oh wow, that's awesome. So something like this should work? https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Multi-Monitor-Splitter/dp/B00JLRBC7S

Yes, HDMI 2.0, 18gbps (minimum)
These are the ones I use and are probably the best ones you can buy.

Belkin Ultra HD High Speed HDMI Cable, Optimal Viewing for Apple TV and Apple TV 4K, 4K/Dolby Vision HDR, 2 m/6.6 ft - Black https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B075N83B9X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qbRADb89SG45N

Thank you so much!! :) Sounds like component cables might be the way to go for now then. If I was only doing PS1 games, I'd probably get SCART, but I'm doing a mix of PS1, PS2, and even some Gamecube games, and it sounds like component cables will cause the least amount of compatibility issues.

There is one last small question I have. I was looking at the PS2 component cables here, I noticed that the D-Terminal to Component Adapter that I can buy with the Framemeister has only 3 female sockets, when the PS2 cables have 5 cords. Is this normal, or am I looking at the wrong kind of PS2 cables or something?

Thanks again! :)

I purchased a Belkin Ultra HD High Speed HDMI Cable from Amazon yesterday. It's the cable that Apple recommends for their Apple TV 4k so its guaranteed to be able to play Dolby Vision content. It should arrive by tomorrow. I am going to use that cable as the one that connects the receiver to the tv. So after I swap out the Amazon Basics HDMI cable for the Belkin HDMI Cable this should isolate if its truly an HDMI cable issue. I will update you tomorrow with the results.

Here is the link for the Belkin Ultra HD High Speed HDMI Cable if you want to check it out:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075N83B9X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Have you also enabled the Deep Color Output for that HDMI port?

Just checking settings to make sure all is good. These things as so much easier to do in person than online lol


Also, if you're interested, these are the cables I ordered back in 2016 that are still working. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8SX4Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I second the comment on component cables. I changed over to them on my HDTV this year and it was like a revelation. Well not that big a difference but all the blurriness went away. They're pretty cheap too. I got one at a local shop. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/Component-V-Cable-Playstation-2/dp/B00005MDZD

Yeah, it just doesn't make sense.

Why would you sell a monitor thats capable of 155hz (with DP cable) w/o the DP cable?

I was annoyed when I first got it, but hopefully people buying it will see the comments and just order one instead of getting it and realizing that they have to order one anyway.

Here. I'll even save you some time.

I have these two and they work just fine.

15ft HDMI

15ft USB

I did notice one is a bit longer than the other for some reason, but other than that. They both work perfectly fine.

definitely get a better cable
the pricier, the more colors, i recommend
https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

on a more serious note, you need hdmi 1.3 or above for 144hz 1080p, for 60hz 1080p, any will do
make sure to not waste your money on cables, its a digital signal, it works or it doesnt work, thats all the difference between one cable an another

What brand and model of monitor do you have? I’m surprised you don’t have a DisplayPort connection on your monitor. Even my old Asus VG248 has a DisplayPort and it came out back in like 2011 or something. I don’t think I’ve ever seen a 144 Hz monitor without a DisplayPort connection.

I think that is normal for this new generation. My 2080 Ti only has DisplayPort and HDMI. I think DVI is being replaced by DisplayPort. That being said outside of getting a monitor that supports DisplayPort, I’m not sure if you have many options. I haven’t heard of anyone getting 144 Hz running through a DVI to DisplayPort adapter unless it was a really expensive powered adapter, up to 100 dollars and even then it may or may not work. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003XYBA72/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8

That’s all I have, maybe someone else has a better solution.

It's entirely possible you're right. I've been out of the Home Theater game since 2015 or so and perfectly happy with my 1080p/7.1 setup. I didnt ever think cables mattered and always just ran monoprice cables. And now I was getting all these issues and I found that cable when I was searching/complaining online about my TV not passing the dolby vision test. This is that cable:

https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-AV10175bt2M-BLK-Vision-Optimal-Viewing/dp/B075N83B9X/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=belkin+48gbps+hdmi+cable&qid=1567537592&s=gateway&sr=8-3

They sell this cable at the Apple Store and Apple's website and its supposed to be the 'de facto' cable for people having Dolby Vision issues. its supposedly rated at 48gbps. Its possible that the cable is a lemon, its too late to return them, but I suppose I could swap them out to see if that changes anything.

I've asked about my problem on this and other forums, and everyone is chiming in with a recommendation for a cable that will 'definitely work', so idk, maybe I have to keep trying till it gets resolved. I sort of wish there was a sticky for 'tried and true cables' that work for different brands.

I purchased a 7 inch unit with a 'Feelworld' sticker on it for $135 and it works surprisingly well. I also bought some batteries (Sony L series) and a charger as well as a magic arm and a carrying case. I am very pleased with it and the only gripe I have with it is that the power button is more like a standby button. I have to remember to pop the battery out so I don't end up with it being dead.

Here's some links:
Magic arm - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00QTIVL82/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8

Clamp - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CM5SNY0/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Case - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0196JV89C/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Huge battery (one last all day about) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00M3P9YBQ/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Inexpensive HDMI cable - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014I8SIJY/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Smaller batteries and charger - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CPYXQ2S/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And finally, the monitor - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00SV5K9WA/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Let me know ow if you have any questions!

Guess what?

They do make 50ft HDMI cables.

There's also hdmi splitters on amazon that can be switched using a controller, or physically flipping a switch on it.

EDIT: Amazon smile link! Get your cable and help out charity for the same price.

I agree you shouldn't assume a passive conversion. We only get active adaptors to make sure we don't have to worry about it.

Active DP->VGA adaptors are about the same cost, compared to the apple adaptors anyway:

http://www.amazon.com/Accell-B101B-003B-UltraAV-Display-Adapter/dp/B003HC85D2

Not including the length between the Linkbox and the Vive, just the length between the Linkbox and my PC, I'm at 50ft (15m)! I'm using this HDMI cable, this USB<->Ethernet converter and this Ethernet cable at a total of just over $100.

Everything works great except the front camera only works when I skip the Linkbox for USB and plug my Vive's USB right into the extender. You can skip the USB for the Vive and plug it right into the USB<->Ethernet converter and still plug the Linkbox USB right into the converter and everything works great :).

Yes and yes, however there's another usb port on the adapter that you can plug your charger into so the device can charge while playing.

My experience with my Nexus 4 is that it pretty much maintains it's current power level while I watch an HD movie (i think it actually goes up a very small amount).

Here's the link:
http://www.amazon.com/SlimPort%C2%AE-SP1002-Connect-connector--Supports/dp/B009UZBLSG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1374259586&sr=8-1&keywords=slimport+adapter

That's completely not true, the cable you linked will only do 24hz via 4k - so it'll be fine for media, but for gaming you want the highest refresh rate possible. Yes OP, you will need HDMI 2.0.

That said, it's also important to note what you will be gaming on, as the PS4 and Xbox One will only go up to 60FPS, even with their new upgraded models like the PS4 Pro and Xbox Scorpio (which if you're playing at 4k, actually go down to 30fps), so you won't be getting anything close to 120Hz unless you are gaming on PC, and even then, 4k@120 Hz is a lot of pixels to push, we're talking dual GPUs at this point. And if you did want to do that, it may not even be ideal because of the input lag caused by a TV.

TL;DR: get hdmi 2.0, they're cheap as well. But it probably won't matter for gaming as input lag is going to be a more influential factor.

> $149 is well worth it based on the tech and features, thus the Return on Investment (ROI).

If a $30 Roku stick does everything I need to (and it does), it is worse ROI to spend an additional $119 which gains me nothing I want.

>You always get what you pay for.

You always get what you pay for? There are so many things in life that simply isn't true. Here's a $1300 1 meter HDMI cable as an example. Do you think you get $1290 better quality than a $10 HDMI cable?

>Objectively not overpriced.

This is far from objective as it is very nearly the definition of a subjective statement.

> While your $30 dollar device ‘works’ for now, it will show its age much sooner

This is likely true! However, you know what I can do when that happens? Take some of the $119 I saved by not buying an Apple TV and buy a new generation $30 device a few years from now if I ever have that need.

You're certainly welcome to your opinion, but it is disingenuous to express your opinion as fact.

Depending on how much you move around with it, I'd say either X230 or T430/T530.

As for HDMI, I'm not really sure if any Thinkpads have native HDMI (my X1 does, but it's pretty terrible in most other ways, so I wouldn't recommend it). Most tend to use either DisplayPort or Mini DisplayPort. Good news though, because DisplayPort can output natively to HDMI using a passive adapter like this

I have a little bit to add to this conversation. When docked and using 2 single MDP->HDMI adapters 1 into dock and 1 into SP3 I never experienced this issue. I thought I'd be smart and get a 3 port startech adapter. http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-MST-Hub-Mini-DisplayPort/dp/B00JLRBC7S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452608223&sr=8-1&keywords=mstmdp123dp

Now I am seeing the same issue as you plus sometimes it just refuses to wake up and I have to hold the power button down to get it off completely.

Docking and undocking doesn't seem to work as well as it did prior with the individual adapters either. I keep using the startech in hopes that an update will come and resolve these issues.

There is currently only one proper displayport to HDMI 2.0 adaptor on the market:

http://www.amazon.com/Club3D-Displayport-1-2-HDMI-CAC-1070/dp/B0194F1MY4/

It is pretty continuously out of stock. If you do manage to get one, then you can just connect it to an HDMI cable.

It shouldn't be too difficult to find a 15ft HDMI cable.

Edit: When you get an HDMI cable, make sure you get one of decent quality, like this one from Amazon basics:

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-Cable-Standard/dp/B014I8T8FC/

Regarding the TV in your bedroom: If the PS3 in your living room is close to the TV in your bedroom, you could get away with a long run of HDMI... especially if you're just passing the cable through a wall. From what I've read, the general consensus regarding HDMI cable length is about 50ft max.

Here's a highly reviewed 50ft HDMI cable that's rated for in-wall installation.

If it's a really long distance requiring that you run the cable up a wall, over a ceiling, and down another wall, you'll want to run Cat5e or Cat6. If you decide to run Cat5e or Cat6, make sure you run two lengths of cable. You'll need both for the extender adapters. It seems the reviews on these adapters varies a lot, so look for a product with a decent amount of positive reviews. Most products appear to allow for a maximum cable length of 150ft to 200ft.

Question for you... if your PS3 is connected to the TV in your living room, how are you planning to connect it to the TV in your bedroom? Unplug and re-plug two separate HDMI cables? HDMI splitter?

A few suggestions...

You can try installing an app called AirDroid through the Google Play Store online and accessing photos that way. Or you could try a slimport connector with a usb otg cable which allows you to hook into an HDTV and control your phone screen with a mouse. Good luck!

Something like this would work, but it's pretty expensive: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1499987705&sr=8-3&keywords=DisplayPort+dual+link+dvi

Supposedly this one is also a dual link adapter for a lot less money, so it might be worth a shot: https://www.amazon.com/VisionTek-DisplayPort-DVI-D-Active-Adapter/dp/B00DYRQXMK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499988035&sr=8-1&keywords=DisplayPort+dual+link+dvi

So just to be clear, I should have 2 50 foot hdmi cables with a repeater in between them?
And I think these hdmi cables look better:

https://www.amazon.com/BlueRigger-Wall-High-Speed-Cable/dp/B004GW25WY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1519238634&sr=8-3&keywords=high+speed+hdmi+50+foot

And a cat6a would be good enough for the usb extension?
There is 3(ish) things that concern me with this setup.
1)
I have stated this concern here
https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/7z3yai/usb_kvm_extender_problem/
And this would apply to the usb to ethernet extension.
2)
The hdmi repeater you linked to seems too slow.
The specs for it says max speed output is 6.0 Gbps, and hdmi 1.3 needs 10.2 Gbps.
3)
Lag, I plan on playing fps games and stuff on my desk and I can't have usb lag slowing me down.

DO NOT BUY A CABLE AT BEST BUY!

I'd recommend this one

Thanks Dan. Right now I have 2x Dell UZ2315H connected using a Mini-DP to DP cable, and also the Surface Book display as a third display. Those solutions there look...confusing? Couldn't I just get something like this and be ok?

It will work, but you might be limited to single link resolutions (1080p). I've had monitors work at 2560x1440@60Hz with single link before, but I've got no experience with the QNIX 2710.

For best results, get a displayport to dual link DVI adapter, like this one. I've got one (attached to a different monitor) and it works well.

Unless your computer supports hybrid graphics, you can't have one monitor sticking in the graphics card and one sticking to your motherboard. You need both cables sticking out of the graphics card like your white cord.

You need to get a DVI to VGA adapter like this one: http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Female-Connector-Black-DVIVGAMFBK/dp/B004G3WCLM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1452001167&sr=8-3&keywords=dvi+to+vga+adapter

Costs around $2 on eBay if you look around.

This way you can plug DVI side into your graphics card, and plug VGA cable leading to your monitor.

ALSO: Turn your phone sideways before you record. Vertical videos are my pet peeve.

edit: DVI side of the adapter needs to be female, VGA side needs to be male, like the one I linked above.

edit2: I assume the other port on your graphics card is a DVI because it looks like it, correct me if I am wrong.

I've been thinking about doing something like this.

As for the HDMI/USB extension, I have an Odyssey and have been using the 6 foot versions of these things with pretty great results so far:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A30FLE2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

However, I've heard that going longer than something like 10 feet requires an active cable, but I don't know the specifics of it.

You may as well get a HDMI 2.0 as im pretty sure they are all similar prices.

Amazon even has this 2.0 going to £4 https://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-2-0-Cable/dp/B014I8SIJY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1501980022&sr=8-3&keywords=hdmi+2

For 2 meters or less almost any decent cable will work, bigger than that you need active cables and hdmi repeater.

These are the ones I use and they work perfectly (6ft, 2m)

https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B00A30FLE2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B00P0ES0YE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Excellent info, thanks!

I take it I will need one of these for each of the 4:3 monitors (the 16:10 is on the DVI)?

For everybody that says this card is overpriced, some info: There are zero cards on the market that will allow you to support six monitors at once that come even close to the performance of this card. Not for $500, not for $5000 (that I can find). Instead, you would need to buy multiple cards to do this. The alternative is to use a display port hub, which limits the resolution of each monitor (such as https://www.amazon.com/Mini-DisplayPort-Multi-Monitor-Splitter/dp/B00JLRBC7S?th=1) or use monitors that allow chaining of displayport connections (again, limits the res of each monitor). For users that want full resolution and frequency on their monitors, this alone is worth the premium.

If you want 50ft HDMI I can confirm that this cable works perfectly, camera turned on and everything, for only a couple bucks more than the OP's cable. I'm using this extender for linkbox power and two of these extenders for the lighthouses.

It really is nice to move your setup to a much bigger play space, and being able to extend so far is really handy.

Yeah. This is the highest quality cable. Due to its amazing shielding, the signal is never lost or damaged as it goes. http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

Sounds like a cheap HDMI cord, better go with this for optimal quality at short distances.

this one

It’s pretty amazing, never had any issues with it. It turns the monitor on like 3 seconds slower than native HDMI but it works well aside from that.

Would like to say this https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00A30FLE2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 HDMI extension works well too! :)

It can be fussy about the HDMI cable causing blank outs, laggy remote, etc. I skipped the drama and got the Belkin 48Gbps cable that is made for it.

The new Spectrum app will blink annoyingly when using the guide if you have Content Matching turned on in the settings (it's off by default).

Two good racing games were broken with the 12.1 update and won't be fixed. Riptide GP2 and AG Drive. Riptide has a sequel that still works fine.

The remote takes some getting used to. After a few weeks I find it's really well done. Light taps can navigate and the voice search and Siri work well. I bought this remote case for mine that makes it easier to know which end is up and adds some grip. Here's another if you prefer smooth.

Not sure if there is a passive one, but Iknow this one will work. I have it and it works great and allowed me to use 3 monitors with one 5770.

http://www.amazon.com/Accell-UltraAV-B101B-003B-Display-Adapter/dp/B003HC85D2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1318394867&sr=8-2

Here's what I've got in my cart. If somebody could give a quick glance and tell me if I'm good to go. I'd greatly appreciate it:

Power supply:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018JL0YIY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A38ZT5SX6TTZ4E&psc=1

Link box:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018JL0YIY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A38ZT5SX6TTZ4E&psc=1

Hdmi cable:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8T8FC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Usb cable:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSS9LEI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A1AMUYYA3CT6HJ&psc=1

If there is a thrift store near you, you might be able to find a 1024x768 monitor for pretty cheap ($5-$10). If your brother's graphics card has only DVI connections you would just need to make sure that you have a DVI-I to VGA adapter and a VGA cable, just make sure the graphics card has a DVI-I connector notice the plus shape on the right with the holes in each inward corner.

Just an idea.

If you call $30 super expensive then I guess so

Edit: If your monitor supports 340MHz over single link DVI (instead of the usual 165MHz) then you can go even cheaper. But that depends on your monitor.

got it re : refresh rate.. I will move the refresh rate to 30 hz.

AVR : Denoon X4500H : http://manuals.denon.com/AVRX4500H/EU/EN/DRDZSYzvebvotm.php

HDMI Cable (both PC--> AVR and AVR --> TV): Belkin 4K : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075N83B9X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 so HDMI does support it

​

Looking at the denon, I am realizing that i have set it to standard .. so I will set it to Enhanced. I am assuming that i should keep the HDR setting in Windows 10 switched off.

​

Side note: I dream of the day when all this is plug and play - SOME DAY

You might need an active active cable to push above 15-20 feet, they are pretty pricey but should do the trick for you.

Something like this : https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Active-Speed-Premium-Cable/dp/B0186DNFLI

Get a 48gbps hdmi cable like linked below. Read the reviews and you’ll find people that had similar issues resolved by it

Belkin Ultra HD High Speed HDMI Cable, Optimal Viewing for Apple TV and Apple TV 4K, 4K/Dolby Vision HDR, 2 m/6.6 ft – Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075N83B9X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qC0yCbV4WHE9A

If I were you I'd try with a $30 active adapter like this one. It should work with any recent video card like a 9 or 10 nvidia series.
If for some reason it doesn't, then you'll have to get a $100 adapter that comes with a USB plug for extra power.

Looks like you best option is to buy one of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004G3WCLM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1454105141&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=dvi+to+vga+converter&dpPl=1&dpID=4162mF%2BzhKL&ref=plSrch

The T430s would be a decent choice for him. If you do get one, my recommendation is to swap the HDD it was shipped with in favor of an SSD. You'll notice the difference. As far as RAM, the max supported amount is 16GB (I doubt your son will need that much RAM, but in conjunction w/ the SSD this machine will FLY). Swapping out each of these is incredibly easy. The processor, however, is soldered to the board and can't be swapped (unless you have access to a BGA rework station).

While it does not come w/ an HDMI port, it is equipped with a mini DisplayPort and standard VGA, both of which can be converted to HDMI using an adapter.

Link to mini DisplayPort to HDMI adapter:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Mini-DisplayPort-HDMI-Cable/dp/B0134V3KIA/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511210682&sr=1-3&keywords=mini+displayport+to+hdmi&dpID=41v%252Bw7qyPrL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

VGA to HDMI adapter:

https://www.amazon.com/XF-TIMES-Adapter-Digital-Converter/dp/B01LAYVT0O/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511210792&sr=1-4&keywords=vga+to+hdmi+adapter&dpID=41B7LIzaHBL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

IMO these are damn good machines for how cheap they are.

I don't play FPSes (and hence, don't really use mouse/keyboard), but I will chime in to make sure you're aware of this:

In most cases, you can use your PS4 controller. I have been able to use it with my PC over Bluetooth in the past (native Windows 10, without downloading third-party drivers), but if you have problems doing so, just slap your USB controller charging cable between your DS4 and a USB port on your PC, and off you go.

I personally take it a step further and have a cheap 25-foot HDMI cable running from the back of my PC, around the room, into my TV in the same room, and have it set up as a third monitor. Then just play on the couch with a controller. This is also useful for watching things as well.

Refresh / latency obviously take a hit from this setup, but no more than standard consoles, and it's really only an issue with FPSes (which is what you're having difficulties with, but I just want to make sure you're aware of options you have for other PC games).

• $800 ($800) for 1080p 3d projector (I have the older and now discontinued, H7531D model which while 1080P, did not support 3D. The newer model does, and has twice the lamp life of mine)
  http://www.projectorcentral.com/Acer-H6510BD.htm
  http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824009486
  
  
• $200 (varies) 120" framed screen - I built mine, pretty simple, used instructions from here: http://www.carlofet.com/build-your-own-projector-screen/
  
• $20 ($12) ceiling mount kit from monoprice
  http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10911&cs_id=1091102&p_id=3875
  
• $40 ($35) 50ft hdmi cable from amazon
  http://www.amazon.com/BlueRigger-In-wall-Installation--supports-version/dp/B004GW25WY
  
• $60 ($100) OEM replacement lamp from ebay (this has gone up a bit since I bought mine, probably due to demand)
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/330885230688
  
  Sorry to hear about the taxes thing, hopefully you can find equivilents of what I have listed here. Let me know if you have any questions!

Do you also need the power cable? I believe the PS3 power cable will work. So will any Vizio TV power cord, as well as a few assorted electric razor cords, boombox cords, and some older printer/scanners. (This only applies to the fat models!)

As for the video cables... We need to know a little more about your TV. Does it only do composite (3 plugins) or will it also do component (5 plugins)? If it will do component, I'd go with those. It's a much clearer picture on modern flat screen TV's.

Composite cables (Amazon): https://www.amazon.com/PlayStation-2-Composite-AV-Cable-PlayStation2/dp/B00004U8QX

Component cables (Amazon): https://www.amazon.com/Component-V-Cable-Playstation-2/dp/B00005MDZD

Slim Power cord (Amazon, picked because of excellent reviews): https://www.amazon.com/Slim-AC-Adapter-Playstation-2-Pc/dp/B00255V7JQ

Nothing really. A cable like this or an adapter like this should both work just fine.

I use all 4k monitors now and made sure to keep HDMI cable lengths to exactly the minimum needed. These cables work great https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Cable-6ft-Connectors-PlayStation/dp/B00NQ9OQU2 so make sure you are using ones rated 4k60 HDMI 2.x older cables or splitters can cause issues.

You don't need a 5.1 to get them where they need to be if music is going to be the focus. I would look at a nice simple 2.0/2.1 to start with and he/they can expand if they feel it's something they want to go further into. Here's my shopping list.

AVR - Denon AVR-S510BT $230 new $200 refurb. Needed for either system.

2.0 Speakers - Polk RTi8 (2) $150ea so $300 or Infinity Towers $300. These shouldn't need a sub right away.

2.1 Speakers - Cambridge SX-60 $250 or Focal Sibs $250

Sub - Dayton Sub 1200 $120

Misc Stuff - Speaker wire, HDMI/Optical cable, HDMI cables, Sub Cable if getting the sub and stands if you get the 2.1 speakers and they don't have anything to put the speakers on.

My wife let me take over the spare bedroom for my Vive playspace. The fold up bed cost about £300 but is totally worth it :)

The ceiling light will be replaced will a less obtrusive one, I'm just not that good a DIYer to do it myself.

If anyone is looking for extension cables that work, I used these HDMI and USB cables to get from my study across the landing (power point is within the room so didn't need a cable for that):

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B014I8TC4E

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NORHCE8

1. HDMI Ultra HD Deep Colour is enabled on the 4 HDMI inputs on the set manually from when I purchased it and I have double checked that is still the case. It is.
   
2. In Windows 10 "HDR + WCG" is in the toggled "on" position.
   
3. I was using a bog standard HDMI cable, but I had a spare one of these from when I ordered two for my AppleTV:
   
   https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B075N83B9X/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   No change in behaviour with the Belkin cable over the bog standard one.
   
   
4. I have not tried MadVR + MPC yet, will see if I can energise myself to try that over the weekend.
   
   Thanks for your input.

Well since you know so much about HDMI, you would know that this is the best one you can buy:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CT08E4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fKtLBb1M0YP8M

Here is a dual link one for $30:

https://www.amazon.com/VisionTek-DisplayPort-DVI-D-Active-Adapter/dp/B00DYRQXMK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1466186418&sr=8-2&keywords=active+displayport+adaptor+dvi+dual

Anyway best bet is to wait for AIB boards that have DVI as well or that include the adapter.

Hi, the below adapter will work as I have suggested it to one of my users that had a GPU with single link DVI-D GPU only (GTX 760) and a QNIX qx2710 korean monitor. She came back to me saying that it's working perfectly fine. Although I doubt you will be able to OC your monitor using it.

The price is incorrect on amazon, when I linked it to her, it used to cost about 30 EUR, now it has jumped up for some reason. Try and shop around for this model maybe.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dell-BizLink-DisplayPort-Adapter-Powered/dp/B003XYBA72/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1477319183&sr=8-5&keywords=dvi+dual+link+adapter

edit: It is important that it comes with extra USB cable! Without USB those are just single link DVI-D converters and they won't be able to display anything (it'll be just full screen colors changing randomly).

With those specs go with 1080p/144Hz. Here is a good very fast 24" 1080p 144Hz TN one: https://www.amazon.com/AOC-G2590FX-Framless-1920x1080-DisplayPort/dp/B07D377Q6D/

Here is a new IPS version too that is a little slower pixel response obviously because IPS but nicer colors:
https://www.amazon.com/Acer-VG240Y-Pbiip-FREESYNC-Technology/dp/B07VFPYRP3/

If you want to use G-Sync with that second monitor you need to buy a DisplayPort seperately though:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-Cable-Feet/dp/B01J8S6X2I/

You're not wrong - though if you're not on a slim budget going with a HDMI monitor and getting an adapter would be the best choice. Having DP basically adds 40$ at least...despite it being cheaper for the manufacture than HDMI Shrug

I personally just don't like adapters - I dealt with DVI/VGA/HDMI to DP adapters at work quite a lot for awhile and they were...finiky, especially the cheap,non-powered ones.

We ended up using these which are decidedly not cheap, but they were about the only thing we could get to work consistently.

It's also one of the few that can support the higher resolutions, most HDMI -> Display port adapters don't actually go over 1920x1200 IIRC. I think that requires a powered adapter.

All the passive ones as the same garbage the active adapters cost $100>

https://www.amazon.com/Dell-BIZLINK-DisplayPort-Adapter-Powered/dp/B003XYBA72

And even these are borderline they are designed to support 2560x1600 which is a pixel clock of 268, you 340 or so for 1080p @ 120 even with reduced blanking.

Yup. $12.99 and 25 feet long...

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-Cable-Standard/dp/B014I8TC4E/

I have this cable and it's nice. I know there isn't much to say about an HDMI cable, but this one is pretty tough feeling.

They need not be expensive. The Amazon Basics one will be perfectly adequate.

I'm using these and they work great.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A30FLE2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXZQSCN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use this 6ft HDMI and 6ft USB. They work great.

​

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00A30FLE2/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00P0ES0YE/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My receiver supports it alright, just double checked. Yeah I have this going from the Shield to the receiver.

I have this one going from the receiver to the TV.

For 1440p / 120Hz (or for situations like mine, with a higher resolution 2560x1600 / 60Hz panel) you'll need an active Displayport to DVI-D adapter (along with a proper dual link DVI-D cable). The common <$30 adapters are all passive DVI-I single link and max out at around 1920x1200 / 60Hz.

The two active adapters that pop up as generally reliable are the Dell Bizlink XT625 and the Startech DP2DVID2. They run between $75 and $120 depending on the retailer.

Amazon.

Super thick and heavy duty cord as well. It is out of stock right now though

Thanks for the advice, I'll give that a go tonight after work.

I'm currently using this HDMI cable for the main 4k display

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NQ9OQU2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For the side 1440p monitor I'm just using a generic DP cable. Sounds like the HDMI might be an issue?

I extended the cables between my pc and link box with a 15foot hdmi and a 15 foot usb 3.0 and it works fine no artifacts or noticable lag. There are a few other thread about people talking about it. I purchased the following cables recommended in those threads. HDMI:
AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable - 15 Feet (Latest Standard) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014I8T8FC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_0g3xxb3M8RQE1
And usb: Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Cable in Blue 15 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSS9MQA/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_ai3xxbQWB45BC

You may have seen thing about active cables but for this length it works fine for me with this cables. If you have any other questions I'll try to answer them.
Are you going through a wall? Why are you wanting to expand it?

I am using the amazon basics cables. Cost me like 10$ for a 2 pack, and is 18gbps (also on a LG 4k UHD)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8SX4Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

here is a link for anyone interested.

I've had good luck with AMD cards. This setup has a fairly ancient 5770 with a pair of dvi and minidisplay ports. I then have to inline an active adapter as my thrid display doesn't have a displayport.

Do you have any other 4K HDR sources you can test with? It could be the cable. 4K HDR signals at 60 Hz require a lot of bandwidth – right at the upper limit of what can be sent over a high speed HDMI cable. The symptoms you’re describing may indicate that the cable is too long or not quite up to spec. You don’t have to spend a ton of money on solid gold cables; an Amazon Basics high speed HDMI cable should be perfect. If you really want to future proof, you can grab a Belkin ultra high speed cable.

> it's a hobby where it's easy to get carried away with spending money if you have it.

I'm pretty sure that is the definition for the word 'hobby'. Just look at audiophile stuff. $850USD for a 3' HDMI cable?? The signal isn't even analogue, only encoded digital, so there's no way for it to degrade without not working at all.

I've read that certain motherboards work better than others for extensions without power. That being said, my Odyssey+ with an Asus H170 motherboard has worked fine with this 6ft HDMI extension and this 6ft USB extension.

I bought a ugreen hdmi extension, and an Amazon basics usb 3.0 extension, working perfectly. From Amazon.ca

Edit; links.

UGREEN USB Extension Cable USB 3.0 Extender Cord Type A Male to Female Data Transfer Lead for Playstation, Xbox, Oculus VR, USB Flash Drive, Card Reader, Hard Drive, Keyboard, Printer, Camera (6ft) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00P0ES0YE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9XWKAb6QCB1MD

UGREEN HDMI Extension Cable 6ft, HDMI Male to Female Extender Cord Cable Supports 4K 3D HDR for PS4/PS3, Nintendo Switch, Blu Ray Player, 3D Television, Roku, Boxee, Xbox 360, TV Stick etc (6ft) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A30FLE2?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


I'm running a gigabyte z170 motherboard, and a GTX 1080ti reference card. All 3 sensors + headset are into motherboard, no expansion card needed for me.

You could try Amazon Basic HDMI High-Speed cables. I almost jumped on them but then luckily my 3rd set of Monoprice cables worked.

link: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-Cable-Standard/dp/B014I8SX4Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480746054&sr=8-1&keywords=amazon+hdmi+2.0+cable

Don't mean to be rude or anything but this would make the 295x2 work perfectly with your CRT monitor

6ft!!! Better hurry before they go out of stock!
I saw one of these for and hdmi cable on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

There has been a lot of discussion on this in MacRumors and the Apple Support forums. I had it happen to 2 Mac Minis. Reinstalling Mojave from a CCC Clone did not fix it, leading me to think that Catalina updated some Mac firmware in the HDMI chain. To get 4K /60HZ working again, I got this USB-C to HDMI adapter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075V5JK36

This has been rock solid for me, but YMMV. I, and others, have open Apple Support cases on this issue.

Yes I'm sure. Also I realize I actually purchased through amazon. Here is the cable I got. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004GW25WY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I don't know if a $3300 powered one exists, but there is this one for under $7k, which is well below your insane $20k guess. I'd like to see exactly what the $3300 one they're referring to is, it could just be some insanely overpriced mechanical one that nobody buys, like those ridiculous HDMI cables they sell on Amazon.

I use these cables from Amazon, which work great between my Sony AVR, AppleTV 4K and Vizio M55-E0. I have no issues displaying HDR10 and Dolby Vision at 60hz, with Chroma Color set to 4:2:2.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NQ9OQU2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://support.amd.com/en-us/search/faq/170 You're correct, I never ran into this issue before because I had a displayport AMD card last. Well that sucks lol. I'll have to go pickup a MST hub.
Thanks!

http://www.vortez.net/articles_file/30926_xfx%20r9%20390x%20review%20-%20intro.jpg

This is the Display port hub is anyone else runs into the same issue http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-MST-Hub-Mini-DisplayPort/dp/B00JLRBC7S

You need a slim port HDMI adapter, this one has been verified to work with the n4, but I am sure there are others.
http://www.amazon.com/SlimPort%C2%AE-SP1002-Connect-connector-Supports/dp/B009UZBLSG?tag=notebookscom-20

Don't know if your local electronic store sells them but lots on Amazon or EBay.

Edit: obviously they are marking these up just a bit... I had a look at the price.. Yikes! Try eBay maybe!

I got this and that

Works like a charm.

Rearrange the space as already suggested.


I used these and they worked perfectly

UGREEN 10373 USB Extension Lead... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00P0ES0YE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

UGREEN 10142 2 m HDMI HDMI Black... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00A30FLE2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


They do longer ones I only needed 2m for my setup

Yes (see below), tested with a TV, both video and audio are transmitted.

Displayport to HDMI Adapter, Benfei Dp(Display Port) Male to Hdmi Female Converter with Audio for Lenovo, Dell, HP, Asus and other brand(Dp to Hdmi):

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Displayport-Adapter-Benfei-Display-Converter/dp/B017Q8ZVWK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1506631957&sr=8-3&keywords=displayport+to+hdmi


AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI 2.0 Cable - 0.9m / 3 Feet (Latest Standard) Supports Ethernet, 3D, Audio Return:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B014I8SIJY/ref=twister_B019OVZSUM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Non-mobile: this would make the 295x2 work perfectly with your CRT monitor

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

this is a simple fix.

use you dvi-d to vga adapter that should have came with your GPU and then purchase a hdmi to dvi adapter like this and a hdmi cable like this

at a minimum you are definitely going to want something like this

AudioQuest Diamond 1m (3.2 feet) Braided HDMI Cable

I used this USB3 and this HDMI 2m extension cable, they work great on my Visor.

This wouldn't be an ideal use for a Steam Link. The purpose of a Steam Link is to be able to say, have your computer in your bedroom and play games on the TV in the living room without dragging the computer out to the living room or running a mass of unnecessary cables through the house.

Since it's in the same room, measure out how long of an HDMI cable you would need to run a cable along the floor up against the wall. As long as it's under 50 feet long, it shouldn't suffer from signal degradation. Make sure you take into consideration the distance from the floor to the HDMI ports on your computer and TV as well, and give at least a couple inches of slack.

An AmazonBasics HDMI Cable is plenty high-quality, and you can get many different lengths up to 50 feet. You can use cable clips to keep it neat and tidy.

Couldn't find anything about active but cables said category 2 1080p with deep color support. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004GW25WY?pc_redir=1408767100&robot_redir=1

You should use "High Speed" HDMI cables wherever possible, to get support for HDR and Dolby Vision. The cables don't have to be expensive though. Amazon has them at $9 for a pack of two.

Most people here will be wary of recommending something and even the rules state "We are not a review site. Don't ask us to compare or recommend products". Also, the kind of adapter you need is notorious for breaking, sometimes before you even get it, leaving you with a passive adapter stuck at 1920x1200.

I would suggest trying /r/buildapc or /r/pcmasterrace. I found a few on Amazon that does this, but the ones with more than a 3 star rating are 60-120$.

Examples: 60$, 113$. These are just examples. I do not in any way recommend these, I have no idea if they are good or not.

> you get what you pay for.

You might be interested in this hdmi cable then

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CT08E4/

The quality of the 0 and 1s that comes out of it is simply breathtaking.

its okay i ordered the amazon basic ones last night which support 18gbps


https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B014I8SX4Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can accomplish this in a couple different ways i think. If your display is using an HDMI input then I would probably just buy a Really Long HDMI Cable. If it is maybe an older display or computer and you need to use a DVI input you could using something like this: http://www.datapro.net/products/dvi-inline-repeater-booster.html

Not trying to answer your question, but the cable is pretty affordable.
AmazonBasics DisplayPort to DisplayPort Cable - 6 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J8S6X2I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CnE3BbE0C0EN0

$60? Where they on sale? They're $100 today =)

Personally I only buy these 'cause they're the best: https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

They're a little pricey at $4500 for 15', but you can't compromise on the transmission of your bits, amiright?

/s

I bought the i7 Asus Chromebox 3 with a USB-C to HDMI cable connected to an LG 4K TV. It outputs properly at 60hz.

From your post, I think you already know this, but using the HDMI port on the Chromebox 3 only outputs at 30hz. You need to use the USB-C displayport.

For reference, I used this cable:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075V5JK36/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

For Hangouts video, a higher end model would be better - i3 minimum or it might not be a smooth experience.

Yes, that works just fine.

The GTX 1060 has DisplayPort and HDMI output too, right? And looking at MSI's website on the Optix Mag24, I see that it has both of those inputs. Amazon has DisplayPort for the same prime here: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-Cable-Feet/dp/B01J8S6X2I/ or the HDMI for a bit cheaper here: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-Cable-1-Pack/dp/B014I8SSD0/

The reason I mention this is b/c you can future proof yourself in this part. You'll be maxing out the dual link DVI-D by using 1920x1080 144Hz while DisplayPort and HDMI can handle higher resolutions. Once the new cards include the higher technology, you can still use the same cable for the higher resolution and refresh rate.

I am doing it today with my usb-c to HDMI cable. Works perfectly.

https://www.amazon.com/uni-Thunderbolt-Compatible-MacBook-Surface/dp/B075V5JK36
USB C to HDMI Cable(4K@60Hz), uni USB Type ... - Amazon.com

>http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

Guess what was in that cable's "customers Who Viewed This Item Also Viewed" section -> A Really Expensive Rock

D :D Gotta love the customer Q & A section on that rock.

Should be no issue at all, depending on the resolution (1080p should be super easy).

You just need something like this

What I'm doing, and this is the best quality PS2 video I've managed to conjure up on my HD projector, is using a PS2 component cable and a component-to-HDMI converter. There are a lot of different kinds of converters than the one I linked here. My receiver doesn't have HDMI, so I'm converting the receiver's component out to an HDMI hub.

That's rich. Apparently, there's more: I could buy an awesome TV for the price of this.

vs. this

Fuck you Monster and Audioquest.

[HDMI 2.0 4K ready cables] (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NQ9OQU2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) might help

Adapter is your best bet.

6 bucks

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4 best cable on the market.

I've had this one for 6 months and works great

AmazonBasics Mini DisplayPort to HDMI Cable - 6 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0134V3KIA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DCVjzbTEBGT09

I have These and they work great

These work great with my equipment:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8SX4Y/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sony X930C,
Denon X4200W,
Nvidia Shield 2017 and 2015,
XBOX One S

behold, over $1k for an HDMI cable. The reviews are great.

I appreciate the cable change recommendation but I have gone through 3 types of cables including the Vizio OEM cable, AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable (18Gbps), and finally the Belkin Ultra HD High Speed HDMI Cable (48Gbps). If a 48Gbps cable (at 3x the price) that supports the latest standard HDMI 2.1 (4K/120Hz and 8K/60Hz) can't do 4K/60Hz then it can't be a cable/bandwidth issue.

I still don't have the Razer phone I'm waiting for Razer Phone 2
But I use this USB Type C to HDMI cable https://amzn.to/2xuT2L9 with my Samsumg S8 for gameplay recording with Elgato 4K and it works great.
Sample video https://youtu.be/OWgIZy3rcSM

well, they also have better HDMI cables: http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

Just so you know they did end up making Composite cables for both PS2's and they are fairly cheap. So you can play your PS2 games with your HDTV if they have a composite cable slot. I have a huge ps2 collection so I will not be re buying all my games.

Link: http://www.amazon.com/Component-V-Cable-Playstation-2/dp/B00005MDZD/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449245908&sr=8-1&keywords=ps2+composite+cables

I went through like 4 different HDMI cables, very frustrating process but this Belkin cable works flawlessly, they are more expensive but 100% worth it, no static in image or problems what so ever.

Belkin Ultra HD High Speed HDMI Cable, Optimal Viewing for Apple TV and Apple TV 4K, Dolby Vision HDR, 2 M/6.ft - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075N83B9X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QNrEDbKAXBD3P

Also worth noting that if you are using a soundbar with 4k passthrough, an Apple TV is essentially your only option to get DV content. Xbox one x has this very annoying bug that doesn’t pass through DV when using a soundbar.

If you're talking about this cable then I wouldn't recommend it if you plan to output to any resolution greater than 1080p. Otherwise, good deal.

Okay so this one on amazonhttps://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-Cable-Feet/dp/B01J8S6X2I/ref=sr_1_16?keywords=displayport+cable+vesa&qid=1563391531&s=gateway&sr=8-16

It tells me it is VESA certified in the description, so I'm at least assured it works as intended and it doesn't cost anything extra.


IMO it's a bit of a confusing bunch to me as well.
I think either looking for VESA certified or HBR2+ (There's also HBR3) depending on what kind of resolution you need.

Of course!

Amazon Canada: Link

Amazon US: Link

Amazon UK: Link

I have a different USB 3.0 50 ft and a different HDMI 50 ft from amazon and they work fine.
HDMI - http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Active-Speed-Premium-Cable/dp/B0186DNFLI?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00

USB - http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00DMFFL2W?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Totally fine with this setup. Camera on, etc.

HDMI is digital so pretty much any cable will do the same thing. The amazon basic cables are pretty cheap for a 25 feet cable.

Link

Why not just use the existing HDMI port and a Mini-DP to HDMI adapter? Much easier and cheaper as well.

There are dozens of good monitors for the price point you're aiming for at the moment. It all depends on what size you're looking for. The main thing is the ports on your laptop. Seeing as your Lenovo T460 has an HDMI port and a Mini-Displayport, you'll need to 1. Have an HDMI cable for the first monitor. 2. Buy an Mini-Displayport to HDMI cable or a Mini-Displayport to HDMI converter such as these:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Mini-DisplayPort-HDMI-Cable/dp/B0134V3KIA/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511766276&sr=1-3&keywords=Mini+displayport+to+HDMI




https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-ThunderboltTM-Compatible/dp/B00DRK2ZIK/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511766506&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=Mini+displayport+to+HDMI&psc=1





Monitors: https://www.amazon.com/HP-Pavilion-21-5-Inch-HDMI-Monitor/dp/B015WCV70W/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1511766267&sr=1-4&keywords=Monitor




https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-VS247H-P-23-6-1920x1080-Monitor/dp/B005BZNDS0/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1511766343&sr=1-5&keywords=Monitor


edit: spacing between hyperlinks

I extended from my PC to my link box without any issues at all. I used the power cable that came with the Vive to plug the link box to a nearby outlet, but you could probably use an extension cord if you really needed to.

For reference, I've been using this HDMI cable:
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-Cable-Standard/dp/B014I8T8FC

and this USB cable:
http://www.amazon.com/BlueRigger-SuperSpeed-Type-Male-Cable/dp/B00HFFTONM

Thanks to /u/ZenPaws for recommending these in https://www.reddit.com/r/Vive/comments/47626o/can_the_vive_be_connected_with_extension_cables/

Honestly Id just buy another DP cable. You will need a DVI-D set up (cable as well as DVI-D on both your gup and monitor) for 144Hz but even then your caped at 1080p. Also cables are nothing more then dumb copper wires, it dosnt matter what color the DVI cable is.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-Cable-Feet/dp/B01J8S6X2I

I did buy these two, but I haven't validated them yet. I hope to try them later tonight.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A30FLE2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can also use a DP > VGA adapter like this. I'm sure there are less expensive ones out there too.

SHADOW OF THE COLOSSUS

I'm serious, I played that for 3 hours today. so fucking good. Also, the Jak series. play 'em in order.

if you're using an HDTV, this is mandatory.