Reddit mentions: The best tap extractors

Ok I got ya on this. I recently had all three bolts on my oil filter cover snap in the casing while I was working on it. (p.s if that ever happens to you, do not torque them to 7 ft/lbs as stated in the manual, just tighten to snug)

The reason this happens is that Honda cheaped out on screws, I guess in the event that those break before more important parts do. It's scary but not the end of the world

First thing I would always recommend is either downloading a factory service manual if you can find one. As well as BUY A HAYNES / CLYMER MANUAL. It will save you in the future.

a quick google turns up this, tada:

https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/610432-xr650l-owners-manual-inside/

and heres the clymer link to buy one:

https://www.amazon.com/Honda-XR600R-1991-2000-XR650L-1993-2012/dp/1620921537/ref=sr_1_1?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-Nv0_9vm4wIVhRx9Ch1KeQ5-EAAYAiAAEgLtS_D_BwE&hvadid=177528169391&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9032056&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t2&hvqmt=e&hvrand=6356380794860257313&hvtargid=kwd-10840489131&hydadcr=6586_9585033&keywords=clymer+xr650l&qid=1564835915&s=gateway&sr=8-1

So back to these screws. you need to extract em. good news is they are soft and easy to extract. use a speed out kit : https://www.amazon.com/Ontel-SpeedOut-Damaged-Screw-Extractor/dp/B00IRL3WP4/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2BIIO15IIO5JY&keywords=screw+extractor&qid=1564835981&s=gateway&sprefix=screw+ex%2Caps%2C203&sr=8-3

Basically what you are gonna do is use one side of the bit to drill a cone shaped hole in the top if the screw, then take it out, flip it around, and use the other side to SLOWLY extract it. Boom, easy and out. just go slow and don't rush it. you will thank yourself.

If you do mess up the threads, consider installing a helicoil so it can easily be saved in the future.

Next you need to find the screw. Your amazing new manual will have the parts diagrams all in it, so start there. If you just can't be bothered to read, we have the glorious internet! Hondapartshoues, Babbits online, and many others will help you find the size.

Look how easy it is! Here is the diagram for the screw in question:

https://www.babbittsonline.com/oemparts/a/hon/5054117cf870021c54bee45d/handle-switch-cable

It is a m5x16 panhead screw. I personally would go down to your local ace, and get the same size screw in a harder material. Either 10.9 or stainless, or even chromey bois as they will have it all. But if you just must must must have OEM, order it from that site. I am guilty of this sometimes even though it is so much more expensive.

Anywho good luck! hope this helps.

Anywho good luck!

You can try to remove them yourself with a bolt extractor. Just make sure you soak them in PB Blaster to loosen them up and then heat them up with a torch before trying to remove them. They'll come loose. If you try to drill them out you could damage the hub.

The only thing that would prevent a (front) wheel turning are a sticky caliper or a seized wheel bearing. Temperature won't help there. I'd still pull the caliper to be sure it's not that, but if it slides freely move to the bearing. Thankfully the bearing isn't pressed in so it is a DIY job.

The shocks & springs are also a DIY job, but the bushings need a hydraulic press to remove them so unless you have access to one leave it to the pros or replace the complete LCA.

I bought a '00 C230 on a whim last year for $650 so I know where you stand. They're still REALLY nice cars even 16 years later, but they do need special care. Do a lot of research when buying parts as some vendors are significantly cheaper than others and avoid going to the mechanic when you can to save cash. MB's are very well thought-out cars, so the vast majority of the work can be done DIY, but be patient and do your homework.

Another thing I'd recommend is getting yourself an MB-specific scanner. Standard OBD2 scanners can pick up engine codes, but literally all other codes (ABS, TC, Transmission, etc.) will require a STAR scanner. Official MB scanners cost serious $$$ but you can get knock-offs from various Chinese vendors. The unit I got is a Carsoft 7.4 Multiplexer. It works great but you do need a laptop with a serial port running WinXP to make it run.

Try these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TY8SF76/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_oQWxDb6919DK9

Or this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2UJBMD/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_jSWxDbQW2TJ2B

Or this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07115JZW9/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_2TWxDb5C8B5CT

These are all from Amazon (I shop there because my husband works there, so we get a discount), but you can get similar things other places too...

Good luck! Hopefully one of these will be useful for you! I think these sort of things are good to have around for such times as this...

remove the whole seat so you can get at what's left of the bolt. Hit it with some WD40 , PB Blaster or whatever your favorite penetrating oil is. Now let it soak in there for a good long time. Then hit it again with the WD40 and let it soak again for a good long time...like an hour or so. After it has been lubed and penetrated get some vice grips and clamp those fucker on there as tight as you can perpendicular to the direction of the bolt. Make sure they are on there real good and then slowly try to back the bolt out. It looks like there is enough left of the bolt for this method to work. If it doesn't you can always try one of these , but I have had mixed success with them and always try the TONS OF PENETRATING OIL and vice grips method first. Also , make sure you let the penetrating oil soak in there real good.

straight fluted easy out.. a set of tap sockets.. tap sockets are specials for use with threading taps.. there is a chance one will fit the straight fluted easy out..

https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Tools-53645-Straight-Extractors/dp/B001MXRPXY

https://www.amazon.com/CTA-Tools-9030-Extractor-5-Piece/dp/B00IYTFSM4?ref_=ast_bbp_dp

https://www.amazon.com/Vermont-American-21872-Straight-Extractor/dp/B000CEMSHM?ref_=ast_bbp_dp

tap sockets... https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-70500-Tap-Socket-Set/dp/B0002SRFOE/

so you can get a socket on it way down the spark plug hole..

chances are somebody cross threaded the spark plug and just cranked it in till it almost broke.. or you exerted enough force when it seized taking it out.. that you snapped the spark plug in half.

I bought this set from Amazon and have been pretty happy with it - does all the sizes I've needed and seems pretty well built. As far as I can tell these crimp tools are for the most part all about the same, the most important part is getting the right size.

I was on tour a year ago and brought my bike to this one-man bike/ski shop and he managed to strip both of my XTR crank pinch bolts just like yours. Had to bring it to another shop and they drilled out the head on one of the bolts and that was enough to ease tension pull it off. Finally got around to removing those stuck bolt pieces yesterday with this screw extractor set, which worked really pretty well.

Anyways, the key to using the larger wrenches with higher torques and small bolts is to use one hand to hold it steady in place at the pivot so that there's no chance of misalignment.

And yes, Shimano sells bolts just for your crank. Assuming you have 105 5800 cranks, the shimano part number is Y1GS21000

Oddly enough, the bolt is not available on the bike shop distribution companies, nor anywhere else online (in the US). The only place I could find it is in this ebay listing from the UK: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-HollowTech-II-Crank-Arm-Pinch-Clamp-Bolt-105-Tiagra-XT-SLX-Deore-/191815279489

However, I'm 99% sure this one would also work fine http://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-Hollowtech-II-Pinch-Bolt-Single-For-Hollowtech-Ii-Crankarms

You could probably also get a generic bolt to work -- it's an M6 bolt and it's 21mm in length (as long as the head fits in the slots).

It's excessive, I know, but I replace my studs anytime I pull off the exhaust. I keep 4 brand new ones on hand at all times, just in case. They're cheap and it's a helluva lot easier than removing broken ones later.

Edit: if you can't get the other but off, you can try a tool like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XSCDEA/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_27PWybYYGBGK1

I feel like a broken record because I've recommended this thing several times now, but it sure made the job super simple when I needed it.

so it sounds as if the stud itself (the bolt) snapped, and we aren't just talking about the lug nut. There's something fishy with the story - any mechanic should be able to fix either pretty easily. Were they just sneaking you in last minute and didn't want to take the time ? Or maybe figured you wouldn't want to pay for it to be done ?

To remove a seized/stripped/rounded lug nut itself, a common technique is the one /u/lmazy pointed out; since most lug nuts are soft decorative metal on top of the harder metal that actually does the work, you can pound a smaller socket on there to act as a nut removal tool. If that doesn't (and when I dealt with this problem it didn't) you can use a proper removal (similar to these ). They use curved fins to dig into the metal, and torque backwards so that the more you twist the more they dig in. They removed a lug nut for me that was really giving me a hard time. I didn't have them on hand, but I would expect any professional shop to have similar tools on hand.

The studs themselves are typically just pressed in from the other side of the hub.

I'm not personally familiar with Hyundai or how they do it, but I can't imagine it's any more complicated that similar cars.

edit: you're ok driving without a single lug nut for a while. you should probably have the bolt in place though.

Have you removed the intake manifold yet?

If so, is there any bolt left sticking up? If that's the case step 1 is vise grips (which will work unless the bold has corroded into the block/lower intake manifold/whatever it's bolted to) and step two would be a multi-spline extractor like these.

That's pretty much the way to do it. Trying to drill and not screw up threads is going to be pretty dicey.

Not sure how far down that is, but if you have a drill, you can purchase "easy-outs". In order to use one, you take a drill bit slightly smaller than the easy out, drill a hole into the screw you are trying to get out, then use the easy out to extract.

Easy outs are essentially reverse threaded bits that bore into the screw and then, when it reaches the bottom of the hole you pre-drilled, turns the screw out.

A set like this can be found for cheap at your local hardware store

You have a few options for that nice round thing that used to be a nut:

1. buy a nut extractor, it's like a socket set that instead of fitting the nut, it has teeth that bite down into the rounded nut and you just use it like a socket.
   
   
2. you can use a dremel with a cutoff wheel (one worn down to about half normal diameter would be best) to slice the nut almost all the way through, then crack it with a chisel.
   
   
3. or you can use penetrating oil and a torch (will smoke like a mother) and try the vice grips again.
   
   I'd do #1 because I have a fondness of buying the right tool for a job. If for some reason I wanted to do it without leaving the house, I'd do #2 (hah, number 2).

Go to your local hardware store and buy a screw extractor kit or a left hand drill bit, they're cheap and easy to use(i'll put an example at the end of the comment) punch the screw um the middle and with the extractor kit(instructions should be included) or with a left hand drill bit just drill ir out, it should come right of, i used the following kit to remove a broken crankshaft pullei bolt with success:

https://www.amazon.com/Ontel-SpeedOut-Damaged-Screw-Extractor/dp/B00IRL3WP4/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=screw+extractor+kit&qid=1574073325&sprefix=screw+extracto+kit&sr=8-8

If you have any other questions, ask, im here to help.

Get yourself a set of these! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QW6K8I/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_V5w4DbHN54DD9
I have a set and it never lets me down and definitely pays for itself. You can also try smacking the heck out of it with a hammer (without flattening it of course) or use some grease and slather it on the bolt and hit it with a torch and then try using vice grips. But best bet is that bolt extractor in my opinion. Hope this helps!

What size is the bolt? Have you already given Irwin Bolt-Grip extractors a shot? They work 90+ percent of the time for me when there is room to properly hammer them onto the bolt. Only the ones 19mm (3/4") and smaller are easy to find in your parts store though. You can order larger from the Impact Performance Series, which I've personally yet to try.

From experience these work best early on before you further foul the head trying other methods.

A picture would've been useful in offering advise.

I'll probably never buy this for myself because I'm not a big baseball fan or a collector, but it sure makes me giggle like a little girl! 1989 Bill Ripken Obscenity Card

Also, this thing that converts your sink into a water fountain.

If you have the room to use one, a set of Irwin Bolt extractors are your friends

They WILL trash the bolt, but its coming out. I also suggest soaking the bolt with good penetrating oil. Automatic transmission fluid mixed 50/50 with acetone works wonders. Apply it with a brush, and it goes to work better than PB blaster or Kroil

There are a few options.

1. Easy. Try placing a rubber band between the bolt head and the wrench. Apply a lot of pressure and the friction might make it able to catch and loosen the bolt.
   
   
2. Easy but more time. as /u/phirebug has mentioned. old disposable bit + JB weld + time.
   
   
3. Cheap but effective. Use dremel with metal cutter and cut slot across the head of the bolt to fit a flat head screwdriver. Use flat head to remove.
   
   
4. Most Expensive (unless you know someone with the bits already). Get an extractor bit and remove it that way.

EZ outs. These work great. http://www.amazon.com/piece-Easy-Screw-Bolt-Extractor/dp/B0002UJNWE

Channellock-style pliers can sometimes grab those, but I've had expensive ones that won't and cheap ones that would, so YMMV.

Or something like this doohickey, I haven't used one but it gets good reviews.

Yeah, I don't mind. As long as I remove the wheel I'm happy.

Also ordered this

Irwin Industrial Tool 53227 Hex Head Multi-Spline Extractor Set, 25-Piece https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0002SRG66/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mRM5AbD146PGM

should be arrive tomorrow as well. Let you guys know the results.

Forgot to mention perhaps the best mix of easiest and most likely to work....

https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-HANSON-BOLT-GRIP-Extractor-394001/dp/B0000CCXVZ/ref=sr_1_5

Order an easy out for brass a left handed screw may work. Make sure to measure the hole diameter.

For a less precise approach you could try and find a left hand thread screw and that might pull it out.

https://www.amazon.ca/OEMTOOLS-24374-Spiral-Flute-Extractor/dp/B01EJ79WOY/ref=asc_df_B01EJ79WOY/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292948034357&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16055223203221652602&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000690&hvtargid=pla-570008451771&psc=1

For screws like that, you'll have better luck with a hollow hole saw style extractor like this

https://www.amazon.com/Single-Screw-Extractor-1-4/dp/B0032YWQ26/ref=mp_s_a_1_18?keywords=screw+extractor&qid=1559039548&s=gateway&sr=8-18


The other style really only works for bolts or large screws.

https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-BOLT-GRIP-Extractor-Expansion-394002/dp/B000QW6K8I/ref=pd_bxgy_469_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000QW6K8I&pd_rd_r=S5Y991CFSFKEM81R50HR&pd_rd_w=shMAm&pd_rd_wg=vJc3p&psc=1&refRID=S5Y991CFSFKEM81R50HR

Barring that I would try to get it off with a pipe wrench. Make sure the teeth on your wrench are sharp so it digs into the head of the drain plug. Also make sure you already have a new drain plug on hand before removing the old one.

I use Grabit for work but these will work as well. You can also get one from any hardware store, lowes/home depot.

I use these things all the time at work and they are very helpful timesavers

I've used these extractors on a drill http://amzn.to/1CVA7aq - they work perfectly, I just don't know if they're going to be too big to fit in that hole.

>So I've given up and have booked it in to the workshop, but I just hate how I cant seem to accomplish the simplest of mechanical tasks, I'm really just venting here. fuck my useless mechanical ability, I just ruin things like screw heads when I try >:( >:(

Few pointers from a guy whose been wrenching for a long time:

1. Every guy like me got to where we are by making a fucking disaster of various jobs and having to sort our way out. Shit, I learned how to extract broken bolts by...you guessed it...breaking bolts! It happens. Take it as a chance to learn a new skill and your overall skill will grow...get discouraged and book a mechanic and you will not learn the skills you need to grow as a mechanic. There is no gain without pain.
   
   
2. Some screws are made of fucking cheese and are going to strip no matter what you do, if they were put in hard and haven't been removed in a long time (or if they were painted, or rusted, or someone used the wrong locktite, or some dumbass jb welded them in place). This is just a fact of life, that sometimes you do everything right and you still ruin a screw.
   
   So what do you do?
   
   For those soft screws that love to strip: You use an impact screwdriver to break it loose and/or a good creeping lubricant to break the rust (PB blaster, Kroil).
   
   Once you munge a screw up badly, you will need an extractor set. I recommend you learn this skill by deliberately ruining a few screws that yo have screwed into a board and use the set to get them out.
   
   Here is one example of an extractor kit:
   
   http://www.amazon.com/SpeedOut-Damaged-Screw-Extractor-Bolt/dp/B00IRL3WP4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414453572&sr=8-1&keywords=screw+extractor
   
   My advice to you:
   
   
3. Get an extractor kit and learn how it works.
   
   
4. Get an impact screwdriver and learn how it works.
   
   
5. If your problem is a bolt (m8 or larger) that is frozen, an impact driver (either electronic or pnuematic) is your best friend. There are some jobs like brake caliper bolts that practically demand an impact driver due to the rusting involved, and are prone to shearing the head off if you use a large bar instead of an impact driver. Every mechanic has one for a reason...they are necessary for many jobs on cars and motorcycles.
   
   
6. Cut yourself some slack.
   
   
7. If you are going to call in for help (we all have done it), you can start by taking your bike in and having a mechanic just get that screw out. Then you can finish the job yourself by ordering new screws from your dealer (the parts guy will help you find the right part numbers and order them for you...be nice to the parts guy, he is a tremendous ally!).
   
   
8. DO NOT give up on learning to work on your bike!
   
   
9. IF YOUR FAIRING SCREWS ARE PLASTIC...plastic is a WHOLE different animal and they are a nightmare. If this is what you are dealing with, let me know and I'll post different steps for you.
   
   
10. NEVER use the wrong size phillips screwdriver! Using one that is even slightly too small or too large will result in stripping. You should have a nice selection and always make sure you are using the correct one for the screw. This is VERY important for soft screws like plastic, aluminum, and brass.
    
    
11. The last point is also applicable to TORX, and HEX nuts/screws. I'm pretty much convinced that Torx was a created by a sadist to introduce untold suffering onto the world. Treat every TORX screw/bolt like it will strip on you. NEVER mistake a T27 for a T25 or you will have a bad day for sure. Harley Davidson loves to put soft torx screws all over their bikes and its maddening.
    
    
12. Learn when a 12 point socket is ok, and when a 6 point socket is ok. 6 point = high torque application. 12 point - only for low torque applications. I almost never use 12 point sockets these days.
    
    
13. Wear safety glasses anytime a power tool or compressed gas/air is in use. You will thank me for this one later.
    
    
    EDIT: Thanks for the gold, whoever sent that. Totally unnecessary but I appreciate it and gold helps reddit avoid selling out completely to advertisers. Cheers!

A classic, neat and cheap trick!

And if you ever encounter a truly stuck screw borrow or buy one of these kits. You'll be extracted in just a few seconds. :)

Snag this set

https://www.amazon.com/SpeedOut-Damaged-Screw-Extractor-Bolt/dp/B00IRL3WP4

Iv used this kit probably a hundred times, never snapped one bit. If it did snap, then you'd hav fresh grade 8 steel to weld on to. In all hon sty, I bought this exact set from walmart for $5.99, if it didn't work I wasn't out any real money. I was pleasantly surprised when it worked the first time, and the many times after that were just icing on the cake

I picked up some nut extractors on Amazon. They come in today. I’ll be sure to report back.

The reviews were positive:

https://youtu.be/RlgasfBseCk

They make extractor kits for situations like this.

boop

Best of luck to you!

I've considered getting one of those rubber things you put on a faucet to make it easier for kids to use. Kinda like this, but I usually see them as like whales or whatever.

I had an impact socket crack and I didn't notice it until I found that I rounded a few of my lugs. Not a good feeling when trying to put the lugs back on. Anyway, I thought I'd give the Irwin Bolt Grips a try. Just hold them flush to the lug, pound them on with a few good whacks, put your cheater on, let the teeth bite and you should be home free. I was really surprised at how well they worked.

There are two sets, so get the one with the size that you need.

Something like this will work way better.

https://www.amazon.com/Ontel-SpeedOut-Damaged-Screw-Extractor/dp/B00IRL3WP4?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_5

If you get the bits designed to get screws out (they reverse thread into screw heads. One should be large enough to grab the inside of the bleeder valve and remove it.

$10 for a bolt/ screw extractor/ drillout. http://www.searsoutlet.com/d/thematic_page.jsp?pgNm=craftsman-pc-power-extractor


http://www.amazon.com/piece-Easy-Screw-Bolt-Extractor/dp/B0002UJNWE

Make sure any metal bits fall out of the hole. You might have to clean up the threaded hole afterwards. It might be worth rebuilding the caliper to make sure there isn't rusty bits inside and throw on a new boot and relube everything.

[Haven't seen them mentioned yet but these things will save you from many fucks.] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRL3WP4/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_WAeuub0TTK73R)

I only needed to use bolt extractors once. It was the coil pack bolt on an SR20 valve cover. It was probably a much easier extraction than what you're dealing with. I used an Easy Out kit.

For your situation, I'd try something like this.

Check YouTube for tutorials. Start small. Use a center punch. Use penetrating fluid.

They make tools like this to remove stripped screws. You could try putting a little oil or WD-40 on the threads which should make it easier to remove.

For future reference, it's always best to put a little light grease on steel screws to avoid stripping the aluminum.

I have a set of ezouts that would get to it. It looks like a socket and bores into the wood around the bolt. The inside of the ezout is counter threaded. I have used them many times for stuff like this.

Here's the inside extractors like the ezouts...http://www.amazon.com/piece-Easy-Screw-Bolt-Extractor/dp/B0002UJNWE

Even if you don't need these for this task, these things are priceless to have around when you need them

I have the "spountin" in my bathroom at home and it works like a charm. http://www.tvoverstocks.com/spountin.html

If you're looking for something cheaper and less permanent, might I suggest tapi? http://www.amazon.com/Dreamfarm-Tapi-Fountain-Rubber-Colors/dp/B004I8V8DI

Did this a few months ago on my E150... same bolt broke on mine. Mine was seized into the timing cover and I had to cut the timing cover off.

After you get the water pump off, try heating it and using a vice grip or a bolt extractor like this. Hopefully yours isn't seized like mine and you don't have the extra expense of the timing cover like me.

Also make life easier on yourself or the next guy and put a little anti-seize on the bolts when putting everything back together.

I have something similar by Hansen. They've saved by butt a few times for sure.

https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Tools-53227-Multi-Spline-Extractor/dp/B0002SRG66/ref=pd\_lpo\_sbs\_469\_t\_0

Definitely replace the bolt. You have a few options for trying to remove the seized head but before doing anything, I'd try soaking it with penetrating oil to see if that will help loosen things up.

If there's enough of the bolt sticking out, an eccentric stud extractor is my favorite way to remove a broken bolt. Otherwise you can use something that fits over the stud ordrills into the stud.

Good luck, broken bolts are a pain.

They actually make an ez-out large enough to fit that hole, I can’t tell how deep that is but you might consider that. For example, ATE Pro Tool 8 piece Easy Out Screw Bolt Extractor Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002UJNWE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EmQ4Db8R4VFH3
A hardware store may sell a single unit in the size you need. You didn’t mention applying copious amounts of penetrating oil first.

IRWIN makes the best one IMO.
Take a stubby #30 and drill 1/4” in.
Use this on a 1/2” socket and viola.
Use the 1/8” with a #30.
IRWIN HANSON 53227 Hex Head Multi-Spline Screw Extractor Set, 25 Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRG66/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yCuVAb89CXJ6H

extractors: https://www.amazon.com/Alden-4507P-Grabit-Broken-Extractor/dp/B000Q60UOO

you can also do your best to cover the board and cut a flathead line as well.

generic laptop screw set: https://www.amazon.com/Notebook-Computer-Samsung-Toshiba-Gateway/dp/B01FTI8TM8/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=QCJ4MGDE9ZZQKS5CPM84

Firstly, sorry about your holiday.

Secondly, I've done this a few times now. Make sure that you double your downtime from what you are planning. Unless all the equipment is brand new, something WILL go wrong.

If any equipment is in with screws have a set of EasyOuts, they will save a ton of time if there are stripped screws.

I pre-label everything (cables, switches, machines) and then create a spreadsheet with each cable ID and associated switch/machine port IDs. This gets documentation out of the way and my focus is solely on racking and cabling.

This is a huge undertaking; make sure that you take the time to plan first, then execute. If you don't you're asking for trouble.

https://www.amazon.ca/Industrial-394002-Bolt-Grip-Expansion-5-Piece/dp/B000QW6K8I?th=1&psc=1&source=googleshopping&locale=en-CA&tag=googcana-20&ref=pd_sl_80vh2uly6k_e

Or hammer a socket on, They dont look like they are special keys just fluted lugnuts to look like they are keyed.

Screw extractors should work great for this since they're already conveniently drilled down the center.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D1FXDE/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687562&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0002UJNWE&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=19HCZ4TKM53YCKV9P9NK

To remove the auxiliary tip, you could try to use something like this, which is used to remove small stripped out bolts. I don't personally own this set, but the smallest bit in the set is rated for 3mm, and I believe aux jacks are 3.5mm, so it should work well

I think this device that makes your faucet into a drinking fountain is pretty goofy.

If you can get the purchase (I can't tell from the picture), I found these very good.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Irwin-Bolt-Grip-Remover-Expansion/dp/B000QW6K8I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519504572&sr=8-1&keywords=irwin+bolt+extractor

I bought this kit for tiny screws. Worked great. I'd stripped the heads off some cheap screws used to attach an Aimpoint T1 to a mount. Took less than a minute to pull all three of them out.

I know it's a little late now, but for future reference these work amazingly well: https://www.amazon.com/Ontel-SpeedOut-Damaged-Screw-Extractor/dp/B00IRL3WP4

One of these, http://www.amazon.com/piece-Easy-Screw-Bolt-Extractor/dp/B0002UJNWE

and an appropriate sacrifice to the gods of home improvement.

Sure, I have this set.

https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Tools-BOLT-GRIP-Extractor-394002/dp/B000QW6K8I

However, being that this is a smaller torx nut, you may need to find a set with smaller sized extractors. They sell all sorts of size sets on Amazon.

You can try one of these kits, I've had luck in the past. https://www.amazon.com/piece-Easy-Screw-Bolt-Extractor/dp/B0002UJNWE

That's super small, but this is likely the type of tool you'll want: https://www.amazon.com/Alden-4507P-Grabit-Broken-Extractor/dp/B000Q60UOO

There are also 'bits' you can buy for a drill that run in reverse and 'bits' into the bolt in order to grip better and torque it out. Similar to this https://www.amazon.ca/SpeedOut-Damaged-Screw-Extractor-Bolt/dp/B00IRL3WP4

Hanson /Irwin makes a good set of extractors.

Extractor kit

This has saved me a couple times already.

Well, you can try a thing called an Easyout. You can probably get one at Harbor Freight Tools as well. There are YouTube videos on how to use them.

It is possible that you could drill it out and re-tap as well. You need to be careful, cast iron is hard, but brittle.

What is the vehicle and what are you trying to remove it with? If you're using an adjustable wrench or vice grips or open end wrench, stop. The correct size closed end wrench or socket will not slip. Pretty much everything is metric now and if I had to take a wild guess that's a relatively recent GM vehicle? If so it's probably 13mm.

Then again at this point it may be damaged enough to not accept the proper size so you may want to replace the drain plug when you get it off. I've had success (gently!) tapping the correct size socket on with a hammer after someone boogered up the head.

Edit.... If it's still not working you may want to invest in something like this (example, not necessarily correct size).

What this dude says.

to help out though, here are some links to products.

Your [size] (https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-BOLT-GRIP-Extractor-Expansion-394002/dp/B000QW6K8I/ref=pd_sim_469_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000QW6K8I&pd_rd_r=DR8J0NVJYCRBST55TM5T&pd_rd_w=DB8KO&pd_rd_wg=65rmM&psc=1&refRID=DR8J0NVJYCRBST55TM5T)

/u/FleetAdmiralWiggles

They have special drill bits for extracting stripped bolts. I used these when I did the same thing to the bolt down in my headset a couple years ago: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000Q60UOO

You could try a flat head that is the width of the widest part of that hole. You could also try a screw removal bit such as this one: Ontel SpeedOut Damaged Screw Extractor & Bolt Extractor Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRL3WP4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-XdGAb8WRRP78
Third option could be to take a Dremel and cut at flat-head slot in the top. Good luck not damaging the laptop tho

A small bolt extractor like this could work:

https://www.amazon.com/Alden-4507P-Grabit-Broken-Extractor/dp/B000Q60UOO

drill a small hole into the head of the fastener, then use an easy out set to reverse thread the screw out.

https://www.amazon.com/ATE-Tool-piece-Screw-Extractor/dp/B0002UJNWE for reference.

You'd have to be living in a pretty rough area to have stock TJ rims/tires stolen. I'd use something like this and replace the keyed lugnuts with a regular ones.

https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-HANSON-BOLT-GRIP-Extractor-394001/dp/B0000CCXVZ

https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-HANSON-BOLT-GRIP-Extractor-394001/dp/B0000CCXVZ You had to use something like this to get that bolt out correct?

Something like these will probably work. If not, you may need to weld a nut to it and turn it with a wrench.

I have removed many of those types of hex heads. You need to go to a hardware store and purchase a drill bit called an ez-out. Here is what they look like

Get an extractor kit, something like this or this.

I phoned Apple first because I really don't want to drive 90 miles (roundtrip) then find out that they are not going to attempt to remove the screws.

I have a dremel and thinking to get this Alden 4507P Micro Grabit Broken Bolt Extractor 4 Piece Kit but not sure if it is going to help with the situation.

I have not tried the super glue or epoxy trick yet. Maybe I should try it first. Is there a specific epoxy that is quick dry that I can use in my situation you can recommend?
I have a Gorilla glue, but this is not quick dry.

> The NVME screw is completely stripped. I am not confident enough to take it out myself. So you get my old 960 EVO for free I guess

https://www.amazon.com/Alden-4507P-Grabit-Broken-Extractor/dp/B000Q60UOO

This thing is a god send for small stripped laptop/desktop screws.

I use this trick all the time, it's so simple and yet awesome. And when that fails I use this.

aw man.. yeah it's really tough to extract stripped screws.. don't give up just yet though, there are extraction kits out there, even for tiny screws like this or this

1 This would be useful.
2 I know this is silly but it's really difficult to like turn my head and get a drink from the fosset.
3 Lime green all the way!

Get a new one.

It could have been saved until that horizontal cut was made. The cut caused burrs that will prevent removal.

For future reference when dealing with something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001D1FXDE/ref=pd_aw_sim_60_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=51u7s%2BwC9wL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL100_SR100%2C100_&refRID=1HNZ0KKNYPA09C78FT15

Get a set of those, drill the required small pilot hole into the brass. Place the part in the oven and heat it to operating temperature. Remove nozzle.

Also, brass can't really be dissolved. It's why brass is used in many applications in corrosive environments. Also, it's why that nozzle is made from brass.

Just consider this an expensive lesson and move on.

Some pix would really help, but I think you're looking for an 'easy-out'.

first what car is it and what socket size did you use, then what is it holding?
this is just to find out why the nut is so rounded....
to untie it now you need a special wrench for rounded bolts/ nuts
https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Tools-BOLT-GRIP-Extractor-394002/dp/B000QW6K8I?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2

or the tool to break the nut
https://www.amazon.com/Teng-Tools-Piece-Nut-Splitter/dp/B00CYLV4TO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=nut+breaker+tool&qid=1569237771&s=gateway&sprefix=nut+bre&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExNkU3OVNDOUdVMjBIJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTc1MjU4MlhaNUE1UzJYNVQ2VyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODY2Nzg3SUpaNTlRSFBKVjUyJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfc2VhcmNoX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU

My best recommendation... [linked below] The teeth grab in a counter clockwise direction and could give you the leverage you need to get the threaded piece out

Ontel SpeedOut Damaged Screw Extractor & Bolt Extractor Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRL3WP4/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_apa_i_quqIDbX33B1DA

Just go but an easy out set.
IRWIN Screw Extractor/ Drill Bit Set, 10-Piece (11119) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002NYBH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GK.BDb32A3JAT

This might be a better set.

8 piece Screw Extractor Set,Damaged Screw Broken Bolt Water Pipe Remover Set By Nizzco https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075TY8Y87/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_m0.BDbDKJD770

I'd give these a shot:
http://www.amazon.com/Alden-4507P-Grabit-Broken-Extractor/dp/B000Q60UOO

Here's an Amazon review showing how to use a larger-sized version of the same tool:
http://www.amazon.com/review/R2LGL6FXG0M5WT/ref=cm_cr_dp_title?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B001A4CWHO&nodeID=228013&store=hi

This style of screw extractor has worked well for me in the past: https://www.amazon.com/Ontel-SpeedOut-Damaged-Screw-Extractor/dp/B00IRL3WP4/

Snag a SpeedOut kit off amazon or your local tool place

I've seen the rubber band trick on just about every "picture list of life hacks." I've tried it about four times and have never been able to make it work.

In my experience the only things that work are using a dremel to carve out a new groove, getting a pair of pliers and turning the screen or, if you can't get to the screw with pliers, use a screw extractor, like this: https://www.amazon.com/SpeedOut-Damaged-Screw-Extractor-Bolt/dp/B00IRL3WP4/ref=zg_bs_2225074011_1

If you have an electric drill, these work better than cutting slots in screws

https://www.amazon.com/Ontel-SpeedOut-Damaged-Screw-Extractor/dp/B00IRL3WP4?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_5

Ugh, that sucks! I think you can get a socket style bolt extractor in there. You might be able to buy just the size you need at a good hardware or automotive store.

Something like this:

IRWIN HANSON BOLT-GRIP Bolt Extractor Base Set, 5 Piece, 394001 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000CCXVZ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_Leu9ybKM1NTTD

a good tool for something like this is called an "ez out" but youll have to get one small enough.

honestly, before i got to that point, id be headed to my local gunsmith. rather spend a few bucks than mess up my gun irreversably.

Link does not seem to work. This is what you want: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRG66

Yep, screw extractor. Sometimes they work on set screws without having to drill.

https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-HANSON-BOLT-GRIP-Extractor-394001/dp/B0000CCXVZ/ref=pd_lpo_469_tr_t_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=89Y0Z7YWWM97541FFBRA

Sears carries these in a Craftsman brand also.

OP I got you.

https://www.amazon.com/Tools-Bolt-Grip-Expansion-5-Piece-394002/dp/B000QW6K8I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469063186&sr=8-1&keywords=irwin+bolt+extractor

Since there are people asking where to find it...

https://www.amazon.com/Alden-4507P-Grabit-Broken-Extractor/dp/B000Q60UOO

easyout

could try this https://i.reddituploads.com/d8241a75fd6543278be3c062a8ca1755?fit=max&h=1536&w=1536&s=36391a312fd4a404ef679642b1cf4c7c

and this
http://www.amazon.com/Alden-4507P-Grabit-Broken-Extractor/dp/B000Q60UOO?ie=UTF8&keywords=alden%20micro%20grabit&qid=1460414557&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001D1FXDE or similar

$20 counter

http://www.amazon.com/piece-Easy-Screw-Bolt-Extractor/dp/B0002UJNWE

Easy Out

https://www.amazon.com/piece-Easy-Screw-Bolt-Extractor/dp/B0002UJNWE#immersive-view_1497126511503

https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Tools-BOLT-GRIP-Extractor-394002/dp/B000QW6K8I/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3G252HFK3CRN&keywords=irwin+bolt+extractor+set&qid=1558135338&s=hi&sprefix=irwin+bolt%2Ctools%2C128&sr=1-3
???

That, but the internal splined ones: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRG66/

There's a tool for that.

This does what you are asking

https://www.amazon.com/Single-Screw-Extractor-1-4/dp/B0032YWQ26

This.

Ah the ole' Jeep lug nut. I'm guessing this is a Grand Cherokee 1999-2004.

Exact same thing happened to me.

Bought these:
https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-BOLT-GRIP-Extractor-Expansion-394002/dp/B000QW6K8I

Smacked it on with a hammer and threw on the impact. Sat back and drank beer.

Torch and id go to home depot and buy some irwin bolt extractors https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-BOLT-GRIP-Extractor-Expansion-394002/dp/B000QW6K8I

I'd use these

http://www.amazon.com/SpeedOut-Damaged-Screw-Extractor-Bolt/dp/B00IRL3WP4

https://www.amazon.ca/Piece-Easy-Screw-Bolt-Extractor/dp/B0002UJNWE

In Use:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMrDYJvY0Ts

They make things that go on the end of your faucet to make a water fountain.

Dreamfarm Tapi Fountain Rubber Tap (Colors may vary) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004I8V8DI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_SzGUzbMJC8X89

Wait. You’re just trying to get the oil filter cap off? If you are just use these: nut extractor I’ve used them on turbos before and they work. Just hammer it on and twist it off

the small one of these might work:
http://www.amazon.com/SpeedOut-Damaged-Screw-Extractor-Bolt/dp/B00IRL3WP4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426164320&sr=8-1&keywords=stripped+screw+extractor

This Because it's awesome

Cycle heating it with a torch and soaking in penetrating oil then use a stud extractor.
www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002INQORU/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1522633433&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=stud+extractor

You could try an easy out

I don't know if that screw would be too small for this tool but I have used it for stripped screws and it works well.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Ontel-SpeedOut-Damaged-Screw-Extractor/dp/B00IRL3WP4

Home depot sells things like this http://www.amazon.com/piece-Easy-Screw-Bolt-Extractor/dp/B0002UJNWE

They are made to fix exactly your problem.

Time to buy a set of EZ out s
SpeedOut Damaged Screw Extractor & Bolt Extractor Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRL3WP4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8xmxxb6TY2MJM
Designed to run in a drill in reverse. Grabs in and backs it out.

problem solved, you can thank me later

this little gadget has gotten me out of so many rusted bolt situations. if you can't get it out with this, then you're seriously screwed.

*btw, you can find this same set at most autozone/advance auto parts stores.

Mostly circular, they have a few spots for the "key" to lock onto though. They are not immune to these though: http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-Tools-394001-Bolt-Grip/dp/B0000CCXVZ/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1397918519&sr=1-6&keywords=stud+remover

Screw extractors

https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-HANSON-Spiral-Extractors-53545/dp/B001D1FXDE

IRWIN HANSON Spiral Flute Screw Extractors, 6 Piece Set, 53545 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001D1FXDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uzWyzb08HKZ2D

Multi spline screw extractor. I fought a similar situation trying a lot of the above mentioned techniques for about a week. Extremely frustrating. I caved and bought this. A bit of PB blaster never hurts either if you can sneak it in there. Out in 10 minutes. Great thing to have in your tool set.

Irwin Tools Hanson 53227 Hex Head Multi-Spline Screw Extractor Set, 25 Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRG66/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NvwCCb1EP43GC

OP: you need to get your hands on a screw/bolt extractor kit. Most hardware stores sell them (or Amazon). Everyone should have one of these kits, they can be a life saver.

If you happen to have a dremel around, you could also try to cut a slot so you can use a flat-head screwdriver (have done this successfully several times).

These work as a last resort providing the head is large enough. Pivot screws are usually plenty big enough.

Seriously. Last car we bout from a dealership had one on the spare when we took the test drive. It was replaced before we signed papers without any discussion of it.
Edit: do you have some of these? http://www.amazon.com/Tools-Bolt-Grip-Expansion-5-Piece-394002/dp/B000QW6K8I/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1463707470&sr=8-5&keywords=Nut+extractor

You can try to remove the stud using a stud extractor you may have to cut the nut off with your dremel to get it to bite, then replace the stud.

Cut a slit in it and use a flat head.
Or Easy Out, a must have tool.

I manufacture aircraft and have for almost 9 years. I screw panels in place. Between this and my older rx7, I have TONS of experience with removing stripped, rounded, rusted fasteners.

My favorite kit by far is the snap on equivalent of this, although I do have the Irwin set as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Tools-53227-Multi-Spline-Extractor/dp/B0002SRG66/ref=pd_aw_sim_1/133-1422969-8840747?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0002SRG66&pd_rd_r=7a0aa51f-5ba1-44f2-8ec6-ce71c8ea8770&pd_rd_w=3iDv6&pd_rd_wg=s0GuG&pf_rd_p=469620d9-3e90-496d-9dc8-b19f900ba5fe&pf_rd_r=QMPM3QV3YNBCKYFF4J3C&psc=1&refRID=QMPM3QV3YNBCKYFF4J3C


This isn’t an affiliate link or anything.


Two quick tips, if it’s rusted, use penetrating oil. Always.
The other tip, if it’s not grabbing, drill deeper. Drill slowly, don’t heat it up. Then you’re screwed. Hah. Get it?

I just removed a severely burred screw (turned the + to a round hole) with this type of kit yesterday. I’ve never had one break either. I’m not an idiot with it either though. Smack it with a hammer to get them on/in. Turn firmly and keep smacking it if you can.

> damaged bolt remover

I had heard of these things (even watched a video). Can you recommend a manufacturer/brand? i see mixed reviews for all the ones I found so far. I do see they come in two basic types. Fluted angled, or sort of snow-flakish straight sided?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074PNWMFH/
https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-BOLT-GRIP-Extractor-Expansion-394002/dp/B000QW6K8I/
https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-22967-Busting-Extractor-Socket/dp/B01ELYPLHM/

You could try to use stripped screw extractor.

Worked for me with some screws.

for the rear, lift under the differential (use a hockey puck between the jack and diff cover if your jack doesn't have a pad) and put a jack stand on each side of the car on the frame just in front of where the LCA meets the chassis.

Then lower the jack under the axle which will let you push down the axle so that the springs just fall out.

don't lift the car at the LCA's. They don't seem like they are designed to bear that much pressure on that chassis joint but I could be wrong.

Camber plates are not really needed until you hit about a 2" front drop.

Here's a short list of the most common tools I carry when working on someone's car

Torque wrench

Deep sockets that can take a beating from an impact gun

Extensions (pro tip: if you ever have to change your starter, you will need about 15+ inches of extensions)

And this is the spring compressors I use

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CMDPLM/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also have a 90 something piece craftsman set with most of the 1/4" and 3/8" drive bits and swivels/boxx wrenches, etc but usually use the 1/2 stanley sockets get grabbed first.

These are also super handy if you have a power drill (better yet, a power drill with impact setting)


Mustangs don't really have a whole lot of random tools needed to work on them so unless you have a foreign car, your tool set shouldn't ever really get too complicated.

It's typically when you get blindsided by some small little issue like a rusted or rounded off bolt that can turn a 2 hour job into a 2 day job. I worked on a guy's old fox body to help him replace a clutch and he had 2 stripped transmission bolts. I had these handy which were more or less the only way we could have gotten that done (besides calling a tow truck to take it to a transmission shop)

http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-Tools-394001-Bolt-Grip/dp/B0000CCXVZ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1406576108&sr=8-2&keywords=stripped+bolt+remover

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Q60UOO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QeIsxbR2ZSH4S

I used this kit to remove 2 stripped screws from my 940. The smallest bit worked perfectly both times. Sadly I couldn't find the smallest bit on its own, but maybe you can. Careful not to extract too far as you may drill into the handle scale a little. It's also important to heat up the thread locker so the screw is freed up. There's instructions for use that also come with the kit. It says to remove the screw head but I never do, I just drill dead into the stripped screw and then pull it out.

Use the heat gun as suggested, and either this or this from your local big box hardware store.

I don't have experience using this kind of tool, but you could try these stripped screw removers:

http://www.amazon.com/Alden-8440P-Grabit-Damaged-Extractor/dp/B001A4CWHO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410556525&sr=8-1&keywords=STRIPPED+SCREW+REMOVER


Home Depot carries another brand called SpeedOut, but the reviews for that one do not look good:

http://www.amazon.com/SpeedOut-Damaged-Screw-Extractor-Bolt/dp/B00IRL3WP4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1410556525&sr=8-2&keywords=STRIPPED+SCREW+REMOVER

Assuming the head is stripped (rounded) and it's not the threads, I'd use this style of broken bold extractor. That is assuming you can fit it on.

If you've got nothing at all to work with, then you can use a spiral-flute type broken bolt extractor

These are basically like big reverse-threaded screws that screw in counterclockwise (so lefty-tighty, unlike normal bolts/screws) that let you put enough torque on the bolt to remove. No sawing is necessary, you just have to drill a hole into the stripped bolt more or less on center.

If it's the nut on the hinge pin, I'd just use a small drill bit and drill several holes vertically and then crack it with a chisel (protect the door when you do this.)

Practically everyone carries door hinge pins and mounting hardware. Jeep dealers will have them, as will the major online parts places (4WD, quadratec, etc.)

SpeedOut Damaged Screw Extractor & Bolt Extractor Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRL3WP4/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_9a3Dub1RZ8KAW

Screw extractor set. Possibly a very small drill bit, as well. There are a variety of kits for removing broken and stripped screws. The one linked may not be small enough for the knife.

There is a family of drill attachments that are used to remove damaged or stripped screws. Should work on yours if you can't get it off otherwise.

Eg. Grabit

Easy Out

I'd check the rust out to see if you are getting any rot on the towers there...

As far as getting out the nut I'd

1. Soak the bolts in some penetrating oil for a few days (Kroil, or PB)
   
   
2. Get an easy-out
   
   
3. If your cheap and willing to risk it hammer on an old socket and wrench it off
   
   
4. Everything fails? angle grind it off.

Can you death grip a pair of vise grips on it? If not, try these: https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Tools-BOLT-GRIP-Extractor-394002/dp/B000QW6K8I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1536851898

I bought a used VW Jetta (can't recall if '04, '05, or '06 model) that didn't come with its lug nut key. We ended up replacing all of them with normal VW Jetta lug nuts purchased from Auto Zone. To get the nuts out I think we ended up buying a tool that is intended for stripped/rounded nuts. Basically, something like this. I can't recall what size worked, though. It's actually possible that none of those sizes worked (IE, none of them were quite big enough) and we ended up using something else (maybe a giant hex bit socket?) hammered around the evil lug nuts. Either way I recall it being a temporarily grueling but ultimately productive process.

I apologize for not having more detail but it's been years and I didn't keep the tools for myself ; I added them to my dad's arsenal. None of the linked products are necessarily what I used since we found them at Auto Zone, not Amazon.

SCREW EXTRACTORS ARE RISKY!!!! They can and do break on machine parts, just come look at my poor, (currently) useless bike if you don't believe me.

But there is a similar and better alternative:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRG66/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_JW37tb1Z570F5

Good luck, broken bolts suck.

The last line was confusing.

I'm overseas so I don't really know any place but as somebody who dealt and still deals with fucked up screws, read this.

What kind of device do you have? If the screw is small, then I'd recommend a speedout tool https://www.amazon.com/SpeedOut-Damaged-Screw-Extractor-Bolt/dp/B00IRL3WP4

Or you put a piece of rubber over the head and push down with a screwdriver then unscrew. You wanna keep a constant downward pressure while unscrewing.

If your "device" is big enough to withstand a stronger force and the screw head is big enough, use a Johnson bar.

Lastly, my favorite one, make the screw head a flat head. Make a groove on the head to fit your flat head and that should do the trick.

Or you can say fuck it and drill the crap out of the screw until it's reduced to shavings

These are handy, too:

https://smile.amazon.com/IRWIN-HANSON-BOLT-GRIP-Extractor-394001/dp/B0000CCXVZ/

About 10 years ago, I ended up needing a set to get the drain plug off my Monte Carlo ('04, with the piston slap-happy 3.4L V6) after the previous owner had almost completely rounded off the bolt head. I didn't have access to a welder, so this was after trying Quick Steel putty on a socket, which I was able to hammer into place, but it broke as soon as I started to turn it.

With the extractor sockets, the fucker came right out on the first attempt.

Spent my first several weeks working GA as, basically, a panel bitch. Combined with time in the USAF where power tools were not allowed and coin-slot screws were commonplace, I have an extremely well-exercised skillset in removing stuck screws.

Screwgun, using snap-on bit, won't get it out? Use the ratcheting screwdriver with those biting bits - you can get more direct force on it.

Ratcheting screwdriver with biting bit won't get it out? Oh, it's gonna come out, I'm not asking. Get the speed handle with almost-new bit, with a little valve-lapping compound on the tip. Put a lot of pressure downwards towards the screw, and first try the pop method - give the handle some pops. That doesn't work? Grab a rag, fold it up, and use your whole body to put maximum force on that little screw, and slow turn it. If you feel it start to slip? Stop. It's time to stop playing. Get the SpeedOut.

Drill out that head. Flip around, use the right-angle screwdriver (sometimes also called a Yankee, whatever works) to put a lot of pressure and slooooowly bite that sucker into that new hole. Continue with slow, even pressure to get the screw to break. That's not working? Okay, you've got a special snowflake, this fixes 95% of stuck screws.

Left-hand drill bit, waaaaaaaay down deep in the screw, and the pointy-type easy out you usually get from snap-on with the T handle. Drill clean thru the screw if you gotta, get MAXIMUM PENETRATION. Turn that sucker out, slow stead pressure to get it to break.

Still not working? Holy fuck. Use a bigger left-hand drill bit, and use the wrench-type easy out that is usually for bolts. Put some valve lapping compound on there for good measure, just to be sure.

That's not working? Fuck it. It ain't coming out. Drill the whole thing out, you're gonna need to rivet in a new nutplate. If it's not countersunk, drill it out like a rivet. If it is countersunk, well shit. You can try to drill it like a rivet, or you can match the hole and take the nutplate and all with it.

If that somehow fails, you're replacing significant levels of sheetmetal.