Reddit mentions: The best torque wrenches

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• Personally I would recommend either a Remington 700 over the 783. There's nothing wrong with the 783, but the 700's fit, finish as well as the overall quality is just superior and I'm a firm believer in the "buy once, cry once" philosophy, especially with firearms. If you buy the 783, my bet is that as you get a little more serious about shooting, you'll end up buying a 700.
  
  
• With all that said, if you're not hell bent on buying a Remington, I personally would go with a Tikka T3 (there are many, many models). Overall it's about the same as a Remington 700 in terms of quality, but the bolt action is just silky smooth and the trigger pull is wonderful. I'm biased because I'm a bit of a Tikka fan, so take my advice with a grain of salt.
  
  
• In regards to the .308 calibre, again I'm a bit biased because my rifle is in .308 but regardless, I think .308 is the way to go. It's easily found, and comes in a variety of weight from (approximately) 120gr to 200gr so you have a choice of choosing a lighter bullet for smaller game or a heavier bullet for larger game.
  
  
• To pass the time while your PAL/RPAL is being processed, I strongly suggest buying high quality safety equipment You don't have to break the bank, but don't skimp. Apart from that I'd say buy a good soft case, and later down the road you can buy a hard case (my personal favourite is the Pelican 1750). Here's a little list....
  
  
• Ear protection: Howard Leight Impact Sport and Howard Leight earplugs (Personally I use both-- you only get one pair of ears!)
  
  
• Eye protection: Smith Aegis Arc (DS Tactical is a great company to deal with)
  
  
• Hard case: Pelican 1750 (Production Case is a nice Canadian company with prices way better than anywhere else and great customer service)
  
  
• Bipod: Harris Engineering (widely considered the best bang for your buck product-- I use the 9-13 inch because I'm a bit taller, but most people like the 6-9)
  
  
• Soft case: Cabela's drag bag-- great product at a great price.
  
  
  
• Torque wrench: VERY important in my opinion, as I see way too many people over-torquing their gear (i.e. scope mount screws) and messing things up. Wheeler Torque Wrench-- this is what I use. It's reasonably priced and I use it all the time when I'm working on my rifle. I know plenty of people say they're not necessary, but they'll save you from major headaches in the future.
  
  
• Bonus: When you buy your scope, DO THIS to level it. I've tried all kinds of methods, but this by far the best (assuming your rifle is levelled first). It's so simple, but so effective.
  
  
  Anyway, I hope this helps. I'll check back in a little bit (studying for finals right now) if I think of anything else.
  

I think the answer here may depend on what he wants to do with it. If it's for hunting the answer will be different than if it's for long-range target shooting. I'm going to assume that since you're posting here you're already pretty sure that it's for long range shooting rather than hunting.

Since I don't know how much you know about guns in general I'm going to write it all out assuming nothing, and then you can skip parts that you know. Likewise, in the future, someone who does know nothing might find this and find it useful. I'm writing this because I don't want you to think that I'm being condescending - I'm not trying to be - I just don't know what you already know.

Firstly, he's never going to complain about ammunition. To know which kind of ammunition to buy, take a photo of the writing on the barrel - it'll look something like this. What you're looking for is the part that's not describing the company that made it, or the patents that describe it. Take a photo of that on your phone. In the example photo is says ".300 WIN. MAG". .300 Win Mag is the cartridge that the rifle is chambered in - nothing else will shoot safely out of it, so it's very important to buy the right one. It may not begin with ".3" - it may begin with .2 or be something metric based like 6.5mm something or 7mm something. When it comes time to buy, use an ammunition search engine like AmmoSeek and find the longest match you can for the kind of ammunition. There's a lot of .300 <something> available, but the one that matches the most text is overwhelmingly likely to be correct. The rifle you're buying for will have some match in the list, unless it's custom and weird. If you're not certain that you've found the match then swing by any gun store with the photo and you can confirm with them. They'll likely ask you whether it's for hunting or range or target use. The difference there is in the bullet - hunting bullets peel outwards like a banana and stop in meat to transfer the most energy from the bullet to the animal, so that the animal doesn't get a chance to feel pain. Range/target bullets are designed to fly extremely predictably, but little care is given to what happens when it meets something. There is a third use case - if they ask you whether it's for "defense" or similar then either they don't know enough or they're being patronizing and assuming that you don't know anything. The next choice is the weight of the bullet. Lighter bullets fly faster, but can be blown around by the wind a bit more. The right choice here is "whatever he's already using". If you ever see any of the boxes of ammunition in the house, take photos of all sides of the box on your phone, and then later delete all the ones that don't tell you the weight. Chances are that the information will be on the end flaps that open, and what you're looking for is a number followed by either the word "grains" or its abbreviation "gr". Just for interest there's 437 grains in 1 ounce, and 15 grains in 1 gram. Chances are the number will be in the 70 to 300 range. When you buy, try to buy closest to what you took a photo of. Exact number doesn't matter, but close is good - if he's shooting .308 Win and you see a box of 167 grain bullets, then buying .308 Win with 168 grain bullets is fine (cartridge is correct, and bullet weight is close). Buying .308 Win with 175 grain bullets is okay (cartridge is right, bullet weight is a a little way off), but buying .308 Norma Mag with 168 grain bullets is wrong because the cartridge is wrong.

So, that's "how to find and choose ammo" covered. You can pad the purchase with ammunition to get to a target value.

Next, accessories - there are some accessories that depend on the specifics of the rifle - whether it's long action (LA) or short action (SA) or Magnum. These basically refer to how long the cartridge is. Armed with the knowledge of which cartridge the gun is chambered for, you stand a reasonable chance of finding out which is it by going to Magpul's page about their polymer magazines, and picking the "Remington 700" from the "Platforms" menu. This brings back some magazines. Click on each and scroll down to "Features" - the first line there has a list of example popular cartridges that fit. Make a note of which magazine it is - the length of the action is in the name. If none of them mention the cartridge, then you can also start googling for the cartridge name along with "short action" and "long action" and see what comes back. Chances are it's either pretty definitive, or people asking why you can't put short action cartridges in long action magazines.

Things that have already been mentioned are bipods, triggers and cases. None of these are bad choices, but they're worth a little time listening for, in case he expresses a preference for anything. For example, nobody thinks that buying a Harris bipod is a bad idea, but there are other less well-known choices that he may have decided to look in to - for example, I've got an Atlas bipod. In order to buy the right thing, you'll need to know how it connects to the rifle. A bipod will connect somewhere near the front, on the underside, not touching the barrel. Chances are that there's either a sling stud or a piece of Picatinny rail there, with the sling stud being much more likely. The bipod should connect to that, but since there are choices then you should pick the one that matches what's on the rifle.

With regards to triggers, there are two well-known names - Timney and Jewell (who apparently don't have a website that Google knows about). Both are great. Both require installation in the same manner - undo the two screws holding the rifle into the stock, use a small hammer and punch to a tap a couple of pins out, put the new trigger unit in place, and then tap the screws back in to place, and put screw the rifle back in to the stock. This sounds easy, but there is opportunity to screw up - the trigger has parts that are only held in by the other parts of the rifle, and the screws have to be done up to a specific tightness. If you don't think the person you're buying for would be happy doing that work, then you can pay your local gun store to do it for you for about an hour of their time. Be aware that both Timney and Jewell make triggers for other guns, too.

Someone mentioned magazines - also a great choice, if the rifle can take them. On the underside of the rifle just in front of the trigger guard will be either a plate, or a hole. If it's a hole, then it takes magazines. If it's a plate then it doesn't, yet. If you want to buy magazines, it's probably best to stick with what he's already got. You'll need to know whether you're dealing with short action, long action or magnum, and the instructions for that are above.

Now, if he doesn't have a hole for a magazine in the rifle, that's actually a thing that can be changed with two screws. That said, these are the same two screws that need tightening to a specific tightness. Remington made a few major families of the 700 rifle - the ADL, BDL and CDL. I have no idea what they stand for (if anything). The important thing here is that the ADL isn't made anymore and the BDL and CDL have the plate as part of the trigger guard that covers the hole where the magazine would go. To be more complete, it does cover a magazine, but it's internal to the rifle and you can't just swap it for a fresh, full magazine when it's empty. It's called a blind magazine. The part we're going to replace this with is called "bottom metal", because it's the piece of metal at the bottom of the rifle. Yep, that's how imaginative we are at naming things. There are two main shapes that this bottom metal comes in - BDL and M5. BDL is a straight swap with what's already there. M5 is bigger, and requires machining out some of the stock to make room for it. The process is called "inletting". Your local gunsmith would do this from a template with a router. You'll also need to know whether you're buying for a short action rifle or a long action rifle. A good brand name here is "Pacific Tool and Gauge", or Magpul (pick Remington 700 from the "Platforms" list) but there are quite a lot of choices.

Another choice might be a shooting rest bag. I don't use one, so I don't have good advice here.

Another good choice might be tools for him to make changes he wants to make to his rifle. The best advice I'd give for this one is a FAT Wrench. It's a screwdriver that stops at a tightness that you set. That's how you make sure that the screws are at the right tightness, and with long-range stuff, everything needs to be the right tightness.

Finally - where the heck do you buy from? The big names to buy from are Brownells and MidwayUSA. They both mark the outside of their boxes, though, so it's worth considering having them deliver to your office or to a friend, so that you can repackage before bringing it inside your home to avoid suspicion.


One last thing - if you do have any questions about this you can send me a private message and I'll ask for photos of the whole gun and the information about the cartridge and I'll be happy to help.

So the good news is that the engine in your bike (the aircooled two valve, or "desmodue") is about the simplest and easiest to maintain of all the modern Ducati engines. I have the same one in my Scrambler and it's really quite simple. You also don't have a ton of fairings or whatever covering stuff up.

So, with a fairly basic set of tools you can certainly learn to do your routine maintenance yourself. For basic tools, you'll want a basic "mechanic's" tool set that includes Metric sizing, and both sockets and "allen wrenches." You can piece this together or buy something like this that'll have just about everything you need. You'll also need some torque wrenches. I have this one for higher torque stuff and this one for lower. They're not the super awesomest in the world but they're just fine.

Let's look at a couple of simple jobs:

Chain Maintenance

This is one you'll want to be doing every 500 - 600 miles or so. You can do this without a rear stand, but it is MUCH easier with one.

Required tools:

A chain brush (I use this one from Tirox)

Chain Cleaner (I use Motul Chain Clean)

Chain lube (I use Motul lube )

Some nitrile gloves because yuck, and some cardboard to prop up between the chain and the wheel / tire. You DO NOT want chain lube on your tire.

Optional is a rear stand. Everyone will yell Pitbull, which are great but expensive. I didn't want to go ultra cheapo, so I ended up with a set of Pro II stands from GPI Industries. They were like $100 on sale.

Basically, you put the bike up on the rear stand, stick some cardboard between the chain and the wheel, hose it down with cleaner, brush it off, blot it off, and hose it down with lube. When I'm done I typically put the bike back on the sidestand and check for proper chain slack as well, just because.

Oil Changes

These are "officially" a 7500 mile deal on our bikes, but I'm conservative and do it at about half that.

Required tools:

An oil filter wrench. You'll need a 76mm octagonal one. I use this one and it's fine.

You'll also need oil, a filter, and a few O-rings and gaskets. The easiest way to get all this stuff is to go to Ducati Omaha (who are sponsors here and will give you 5% off and free shipping with the code in the sticky thread) and order an oil change kit for your bike. They'll even include the Ducati filter wrench for like $10.

You'll also need an oil drain pan and a way to transport the old oil to an auto parts store or other place that will properly dispose of it. PLEASE do not do something stupid like pouring it in the gutter or putting it in your trash.

This is another job that's made incredibly easier by putting the bike up on the rear stand.

There's a good walkthrough of how to do it here. This is on a Scrambler, but again it's the same engine. Note that this walkthrough includes checking the mesh filter which isn't strictly required every time. If you don't do that part all the things about taking the exhaust off aren't applicable. If you're not doing that part all you need to do is drain the oil, swap the filter, and re fill.

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There are other jobs you can easily learn to do yourself, like brake pads and fluid, but if you start by learning to do chain maintenance and oil changes you'll have most of the stuff you need. The other thing I would recommend is to get yourself a nice set of bike washing stuff, and spend time every few weeks cleaning your machine. It's a good way to get familiar with what's where and what it should all look like "normally."

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I do a lot of shadetree mechanic stuff, and my toolkit is relatively small and 99% from harbor freight. Invaluable tools for me:

• Dewalt impact wrench. ($100) Fuck the drill, get the driver and these ($5). This makes zipping things together and apart super easy. Not necessary, but holy shit is it my most used tool. I'm lazy and this saves a ton of time.
  
• 3/8" plastic harbor freight socket wrench. ($10) This is a ton better than any steel wrench I've ever had. Great mechanism, ergonomic, light, non-corrosive.
  
• Bit set ($23) comboed with the impact driver and one of these ($2), and you're set for any screw/socket situation you could possibly have. I use this so much that I should probably have 2...
  
• Breaker bar ($20) for anything that the socket wrench can't handle on its own. Direct competitor to Snap-on for $20
  
• Socket set ($30). I don't think I've ever used anything outside of these besides some small jobs where either a special deep socket or thin walled socket was required. Make sure you get an adapter set ($5) so all your tools can work with any sized sockets. While you're at it, get some extensions ($15) and universal joints ($7). These are invaluable when you need them and very useful otherwise. Usefulness factor makes them a necessity in my book
  
• I love my channel locks ($7). I don't carry box end wrenches. I've never been like, "fuck, I NEED a box end wrench." I think that anybody who needs them is a damn liar. These channel locks are every crescent wrench combined into one tool. They also serve as pliers, wire strippers, etc. etc. I might upgrade to vice grips one day, but these are still my go-to pliers.
  
• Similar to channel locks, some adjustable wrenches ($9) are musts for the same reason channel locks are necessary.
  
• Multimeter for electronics. This thing does it all. I want to say it even does continuity which isn't too common.
  
• non-harbor freight torque wrench ($57). This one is a direct competitor to snap-on as well. There's a 1/2" drive one that goes up to 150 ft-lbs which can get you by 95% of jobs for ($38) if savings if the penultimate goal. I'd splurge if I were you though on the 250 ft-lb wrench.
  
• THE BEST TOOL EVER ($5) Whether you dropped something into the engine bay, need to grab a socket way over 'there', or whatever, this tool is so useful.
  
• Jackstands ($50 for 4) - and any jack. I have a nice racing jack, but it's definitely not necessary. Scissor jacks can access tight areas, but bottle jacks are more reliable. I don't care what jack you use, use jackstands BEFORE YOU KILL YOURSELF in the stupidest way possible. Boaters use lifejackets, construction guys use hardhats, mechanics use jackstands. These are your personal protective equipment and they are designed to save your life. Make sure it's rated for your vehicle and carry 2 if you can, but carry at least 1 if you have any inclination to get under your vehicle for any reason. The average person might not need one day-to-day, but the average person shall not go under their car without one. Rant over.
  
• OBD 2 engine communication device ($17). I can read and clear engine codes using my phone. I can check O2 sensor voltages, I can check battery voltage, boost pressure, vacuum pressure, my 1/4 mile time, etc. etc. etc. This tool is extremely useful. I consider it necessary given its pricepoint and utility.
  
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  I don't believe I've missed anything. These are my automotive essentials and are valued at $360 new. Skip the convenient impact driver and you're at $260. I want to make it clear that you can do 99% of any vehicle work using these tools and these tools only. Whether you're changing your tires or dropping the transmission, these will get you 99% of the way there. Most of these have been side-by-side compared with professional grade tools and are very competitive performance-wise. Cost wise, it's no contest. These tools win.
  
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  Jackstands

You're halfway correct. You're only converting the length unit, not the weight unit. So to go from kg-m to ft/lb you'd have to convert both units. Easiest way is to use an online converter, like this one. So your range, 0.15 to 13 kg-m, is equal to 13 to 1128 in/lbs, or 1 to 94 ft/lbs.

To really get all those torque ranges, you would need 3 torque wrenches: one for the smaller torques, one for the bigger stuff, and a screw-type torque wrench for the really small stuff. But two torque wrenches should cover about 90% of the stuff on that list.

These two wrenches would work perfect for what you're doing: a 1/4" drive and a 3/8" drive. With Amazon's free shipping the price should be right around $75. These two wrenches give you a range of 0.23 to 11 kg-m, which is everything on your list except the "cone seat for steering rod" and the "speedometer cable locking screw". If you ever mess with those, just use common sense and don't over tighten them.

I currently work as an aircraft mechanic, but I have also worked on motorcycles and cars before. I can tell you that most people would not even torque the vast majority on that list. Some things are important, where a failure of the bolt or nut can result in damage, like the axle nut bolts, and those would get always torqued. But things like the kickstarter arm bolts would normally just snug them up. Over time you will learn what is proper strength that should be applied. But for a beginner the torque wrench is great because it reduces the chances of stretching a bolt.

Quick science lesson. If you look at this chart, you will see the torque you can apply (the stress axis) vs. the stretch the bolt will receive (the strain axis). As you torque a bolt, the bolt will stretch slightly, which is fine, unless you go too far. A normal torque for a bolt would be somewhere between 0 and the yield strength on the chart. In this area, the bolt will stretch but return to it's original form once the torque is release. If you go any further, you enter the strain hardening area. Here the bolt will receive permanent deformation, but will still be tight. If you go even further, you enter the necking area, where the bolt has stretched so far that it has become thin and the strength of the bolt is no longer there, and the bolt is very close to breaking.

The reason why I bring this up, if you're ever tightening a bolt, screw, or nut and it feels like it all of a sudden got easier to turn, most likely it's because you've entered the necking area and you're about to break the bolt. Best thing to do then is take the bolt out and replace it.

Lots of variables for tires & brakes. I've heard of folks eating up a set of tires and brake pads in one weekend. Those with more wear, it could be after a day. The OEM pads & tires are fine for the track, but you will most likely eat them up pretty fast, again, depending how you're driving. For your first day, if you're not particularly aggressive, you should be fine. If you are on it, they will go much faster. Are you comfortable changing your own brake pads? If so, bring the tools to do it and extra sets of pads. (front & rear) That will give you peace of mind.

After every session you're going to want to check a few things:

• Lug nuts with a torque wrench (I picked up this one on Amazon a few years ago and it's worked well.) Torque ONLY when wheels are cold, eg. right before you go out on track. Do NOT use 12 point sockets - use a good six-point only! (OEM Ford lug nuts are ABSOLUTE GARBAGE and will fall apart.)
  
• Tire pressures. Get a good tire pressure gauge, something like this. (similar to this - I recommend analog, as you don't have to worry about batteries)
  
• Brake pad wear - visual inspection - look carefully at the pad material on all four corners. Make sure you have plenty. Check inner & outer pads.
  
• Tire wear - pay attention to how your tires are behaving and wearing. Adjust pressures as necessary. I normally start the day out about 8-10 PSI less than the OEM specs. After your first session, immediately check pressures. Tell your instructor you want to do so, they will help you. You want the hot pressures to be somewhere around your OEM pressures. You may have to add/remove some air to get the tires where you want them to be. Take notes, and experiment.
  
• Open the hood after your session and inspect the engine. Get used to what it looks like and look carefully for leaks or anything that is out of place. You may have issues with overheating as so many folks have in the past. If you notice your coolant temp climbing, put the heat on full blast and run it out the side vents. This will help mitigate the issue enough to get you by. The solution is a larger radiator but that's for another time.
  
• One last thing, when you come in off of a hot track, try not to use your brakes. When you park your car, use wooden blocks or wheel chocks. Don't use a parking brake. Let the pads/rotors cool without touching. I like to run my car for a few min after coming off track to let the coolant circulate a bit, with the hood open. Up to you if you do this. Heat is the enemy, gives me peace of mind to let it cool faster.

alot of this is dependent on your model, but to give you a rough idea...

the most important tool you can own is a copy of the Factory Service Manual for your car, it can make fixing any part of the car 10x easier, and gives you torque specs for almost everything so you dont wreck your car. Subaru uses aluminum engine blocks, and over torquing will strip the threads from the block, or if you're really unlucky you can crack the block or head leaving you with a 3,300lb paperweight.

99% of fasteners are Metric, common sizes are 8, 10, 12, 14, and 17mm. there are also some 19, 21, and 23mm but they're less common. If you do any engine work you'll want a 14mm 12-point to remove the head bolts. If you need to split your short block, those are 12mm 12-point i think...

changing the engine oil will require a normal 17mm socket, but if you feel like changing manual transmission or rear diff oil you'll need a Torx T70 bit. (im doing mine this weekend) thats about $10 on amazon

If you plan on doing any engine/timing belt work, consider getting a set of cam/crank pulley tools. they're specific to Subaru and its nearly impossible to get the timing belt pulley's and harmonic balancer torqued correctly without them. There are a few different tools for different pulleys, each is about $50. you can find them here and on amazon.

I'm not sure about older models, but the fuel line that connects to the intake manifold on my subie has a quick-disconnect that requires a special tool to remove, you can remove the fuel line in other locations, but its nearly always a pain in the ass to get it back on and will risk damaging a hose. this is only really needed if you think you'll ever remove the intake manifold or plan to pull the engine at any point.

Other than that...

Breaker bars are great, especially for head bolts, brakes, and oil drain plugs

Feeler Gauges for checking tolerances

If you jack up the car, throw some jack stands under there for redundancy so if your jack slips, you aren't killed (this happens, alot.)

a compressor, impact wrench, blowgun, air ratchet, and some impact sockets can be infinitely useful, but know when to use them and when not to use them.

a good set of torque wrenches is always good, the torque specs on subarus are anywhere from 3.6ft/lbs to something like 136 ft/lbs. Amazon has some pretty good ones which cover this range... i bought this, this and this

im sure i can come up with more, if i do i'll add them as an edit. If you can give me an idea of what you plan on doing maintainance-wise, maybe we can give you an idea on what you'll need/expect

> I absolutely understand torque wrenches and their importance, but, not sure I want to make the investment for the infrequency I would use one at this point in my life.

Really???

Just two examples: https://amzn.com/B0019VMI0Y and https://www.hfqpdb.com/coupons/3364_ITEM_CLICK-TYPE_TORQUE_WRENCHES_1562189647.3117.png

Those are much cheaper than brake rotors. The beam type will last forever. It's a good idea to have the calibration checked on the click types because the springs stretch on them. I have a couple of the Harbor Freight cheap ones, and some "tool truck" ones I paid $100+ for, and if anything, the HF ones stay closer to proper calibration longer than the expensive ones.

If storage space is a problem, I also like this solution: https://amzn.com/B009GLISI0 which also doesn't require periodic calibration (and can actually be used to check calibration on other torque wrenches).

For pads, I agree Akebono are the best. Those go on my wife's Mercedes S class, and on her VW Beetle daily driver. My pickup truck, a 1997 Chevy S10 2WD with the 4.3L V6 (which is also my autocross "sports car") is running Wagner ThermoQuiet Cermic pads now. They are inexpensive but very effective. Most modern ceramics (even the parts store "house brands") are more than adequate for today's cars and today's tires.

I just put together a tool kit for my BRZ, and I ended up getting a set of Tekton metric sockets and a Tekton low-profile 3/8s inch ratchet. I've used Tekton quite a bit and I found them to be pretty great. These metric sockets will cover just about everything on the car that can be loosened or tightened with a socket, and since they're deep sockets you can loosen lug nuts with them.

I'd suggest getting a breaker bar or torque wrench if you want to get an additional accessory. The breaker bar is great for loosening tough nuts, and the torque wrench is terrific for tightening a fastener to the exact amount of force it specifies in the manual.

If you really want to go above and beyond, an open ended wrench set (also metric) can be great for when a socket just won't fit. They even make a version with a built-in ratcheting mechanism

In summary, a metric ratchet set that goes from about 8mm to about 20mm is a great gift idea, and you can easily add on other accessories or wrenches if you want to make your gift a bit bigger. I can personally vouch for the Tekton stuff--sure it's not the most expensive fancy set of tools out there, but they look, feel, and work well.

Hope this helps!

Sounds a bit like me!

1. What I did was look at all the components on my bike and try and find the owners/instruction/installation manual. This provided me with most of the torque settings required for the various components, and I put them into a spreadsheet for future reference. For the remainder, I went to Park Tool website http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/torque-specifications-and-concepts and thus completed my list of parts with their respective torque settings. The range worked out to be from 2Nm-49Nm (min torque spec). I could not find a single torque wrench that had this range, so had to split into 2 wrenches. Since the smaller values (2-10Nm) were the most common on the bike, I purchased this Tektro 1/4" torque wrench http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL2EG which ranged from 2.26Nm-20Nm. I have had no problems with this wrench, and it feels good quality for the small price I paid.
   
   
2. I've found isopropyl alcohol to be sufficient for cleaning the rotors, but mine don't get all that dirty so YMMV. I know that Fenwicks makes a Dry Degreasers and Disc Brake spray that is supposed to be very good.
   
   
3. You're probably best looking to get the Park Tool stand http://www.parktool.com/product/home-mechanic-repair-stand-pcs-9 It's not all that expensive and the quality is excellent.
   
   As to rear derailleurs, they are all pretty much standard. You have 2 screws for determining low and high stop; the b-screw which controls the gap between the top pulley wheel and the cassette. And then are able to adjust cable-tension either at the derailleur or the gear shifter which will fine tune the shifting indexing. Just youtube any rear-mech/derailleur setup and you should find something suitable.
   
   Hope this helps!

I highly suggest a hand packer. You'll need a jack capable of lifting your trailer (I highly suggest a bottle jack), and stands to support it while your wheels are off. You'll need a 1-1/2 socket (I won't use a wrench on the castle nut), cotter pins if that's what your axle uses. You won't know until you take it apart so just buy a kit since they're cheap and you can use them if/when you need to work on your awning anyway. I use water pump pliers to remove the dust cap without damaging it. You'll need a seal puller. Breaker bar, torque wrench, and sockets to fit your lug nuts. Brake clean, I use varsol to clean everything but the drum. Varsol and cast iron don't mix. I'll clean everything after the varsol with brake clean because it evaporates. You'll need high temperature high pressure grease and new seals (if you bring your make and rating of axle to a dealer they can hook you up).

Jack up the trailer, take off the wheels, pop off the dust cap, take off the cotter pin or other retainer, remove the nut, washer, outer bearing, remove the drum, remove the seal, remove the inner bearing. Clean the bearings with varsol, clean everything with brake clean, blow everything with compressed air to evaporate the brake clean, pack new grease into the bearings, coat the axle spindle with grease, coat the bearing races with grease, reassemble.

The correct torque on the axle nut is 50ft/lbs while spinning the wheel to set the bearings, then loosen and retighten to finger tight.

So you didn't mention if you've tried any steps yet, so ignore this comment if you have.

My friend did the same thing, and it can sometimes be an easy fix.

A couple of quick things to check. This should take like 30 seconds, is not messy, and saves you from the "oh, I feel so stupid" moment. If it doesn't work, then you know you've tried the basics, and it's time to call professionals!

1. Make sure the blades can spin freely. On the bottom of the garbage disposal in the center there is a little opening with a hex shape. There will usually be a matching wrench somewhere nearby (maybe under the sink, maybe in that junk drawer in the kitchen that has all the manuals and stuff you never know what to do with). It would look like this:
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000BQ7WE0/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_eIwxDbFYFCVX7
   
   It should be able to freely turn (or you may still hear glass crunching or preventing it from spinning. Sometimes manually spinning the blades can clear them.
   
   
2. Is the disposal not making any noise at all when you turn it on? The fuse may be blown. There is a reset button on the bottom of the disposal that can be reset when the disposal has been overloaded by accident. You can press it to make sure that it is set and the disposal tries to turn on.
   
   Here's a video of the whole clearing process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0OByRuoYM0

My stand: Feedback Sports Sport Stand I love it. Feels really well built and is very easy to collapse and set up.

Tekton are the cheapest I'd go for click torque wrenches. They're a great brand at a very competitive price point. Beam-style torque wrenches can be had for cheaper if you're into that. They're great as well. Reliable, simple, and don't require recalibration. I just prefer the usability of click personally.

I can't help you on the chain rivet tool

In terms of a ratchet kit - since the rear axle nut needs to be torqued down pretty heavy, you'll want a decent torque wrench that can comfortably hit the spec on the rear axle nut. Do you know lb ft your rear axle nut needs to be torqued to? I'd suggest getting a torque wrench that does 15-150 ft lbs something like this , as most axle nuts need somewhere in the 75-110 ft lbs. Then, at the least you need a socket that 1) matches the drive size on your torque wrench (likely .5 inch) and 2) the axle nut size (can vary a lot. mines 27mm, some are 24mm, recommend checking service manual and/or google). You'd be even better off for doing other work to just get an impact socket set, should be able to find something decent for ~$20 on harbor freight, and then a cheap ratchet (for when you just need to loosen things up or other various tinkering activities)

I like the Tekton torque wrenches, have 2 sizes and never had an issue. In terms of sockets, anything not made out of chinesium is fine (Harbor freight set has been good for me)

In the spirit of staying buget, you could get a budget bipod that works fine too: http://www.amazon.com/Hunting-Adjustable-Spring-Return-Sniper/dp/B00U27O9TY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1463606745&sr=8-2&keywords=swivel+bipod

The primary arms 4-14 is great. I'd choose the R-Grid over the mil-dot.

http://www.primaryarms.com/pa4-14xffp-r-grid/p/kt-pa4-14xffp-r-grid/

I'd just pair that scope with the accompanying primary arms low rings too.

Get a fat wrench:
http://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Firearms-Accurizing-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0012AXR4S

So you can torque everything to spec including the top rail to action and action screws (action to bottom metal).

Might consider a muzzle brake, rear bag and stock pack too, but see first how your face is sitting on the rifle.

You should be able to lay down on the rifle, close your eyes and basically go to sleep, and then open them and still have a great sight picture. So your 'resting' position on the stock should put you in line with the scope.

Others will chime in with great budget options for break, stock pack, and rear bag. I just always get triad tactical things for my rifles.

Alright... ignoring the fact that your asking how to install gears implies heavily that you don't know the first step... OR the first thing. Here's the basic run down. I'm not going to go into detail on torque specs, or specific procedure... i'd be here all night on a how-to that most people don't give two shits about. I'm also doing this ONLY for the 8.25. DANA 44's are too rare in stock, and DANA 35's don't deserve to be rebuilt.

Tools needed:

1. Bearing race set tool: http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piece-bearing-race-and-seal-driver-set-95853.html
   
2. Clamshell Bearing puller: http://www.amazon.com/G2-Axle-Gear-80-BRGPLLR-Clamshell/dp/B004PHV7DI
   
3. Micrometer: http://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools-Caliper-Electronic-Micrometer/dp/B006Y1OWKS
   
4. Backlash Indicator: http://www.amazon.com/Allstar-ALL96414-0-001-Increment-Indicator/dp/B006K8WANQ
   
5. Torque Wrench: http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24335-2-Inch-Torque-10-150-Foot/dp/B00C5ZL0RU
   
6. 12 ton shop press: http://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-shop-press-33497.html
   
7. Cold Chisel: http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6738-Chisel-Punch-12-Piece/dp/B000NPR3IO
   
8. Magnet on a stick
   
9. Needle nose pliers, or whatever pliers will fit
   
10. 3-5lb Maul
    
    Parts needed:
    
11. The gears. duh
    
12. Master rebuild kit with TIMKEN bearings.
    
13. Gear oil.
    
14. Marking compound, if the rebuild kit doesn't come with it... If it doesn't, you bought a cheap kit. shame. SHAME.^SHAME.^SHAME.
    
    On a 8.25...
    
15. Pull diff cover.
    
16. Pull pinion yoke nut.
    
17. Remove center pin bolt, and pull center pin from carrier.
    
18. Push Axle shafts in to the center housing.
    
19. Look for the little C clip inside the carrier. Use you stick magnet to pull them out. Repeat for the other axle.
    
20. Pull axle shafts out of both sides.
    
21. Use your cold chisel to put a mark on the left bearing cap ridge. make one mark. make one mark on the left side housing as well. Make two marks on the right side bearing cap. Make two marks on the right side housing as well. PAY ATTENTION WHEN REASSEMBLING. Bearing caps are side specific, and switching them can result in early bearing failure. Set bearing caps and bearing cap bolts in a clean area.
    
22. Pull out main carrier.
    
23. Put carrier in a vise, and with your torque wrench, remove the bolts holding the ring gear in place. tap the ring gear evenly around the sides to remove.
    
24. Use the Clamshell bearing puller to pull the bearings off the carrier.
    
25. Use the shop press to install the new bearings on the carrier.
    
26. Put the new ring gear on the carrier. Push it on lightly with your hands, install 2-4 bolts to hold it in place. Count the turns as the bolts catch. install the rest of the bolts with the same amount of turns. Tighten all bolts in a star pattern in even increments to 40 ft/lbs. then to 60 ft/lbs. then finally 80 ft/lbs.
    
27. Pull the pinion yoke if you haven't already. pull the pinion. if it doesn't come out, hit it with a hammer. use some wood if you plan on saving the gear set for whatever reason.
    
28. Use cold punch to remove bearing races from the rear of the housing. don't fuck up the housing mating surface, or it'll leak no matter how many times you replace the pinion seal.
    
29. Install the new bearing races with the bearing race set tool and your maul.
    
30. Install the bearing on the pinion.
    
31. Measure the old shims with your micrometer. Install the same thickness shims in the pinion to start.
    
32. Place the pinion in the housing. New bearing should be in place on the pinion and in the housing at this point. IF not, you need to learn to read.
    
33. Measure the thickness of the carrier bearings. Place new bearings of the same thickness to start.
    
34. Place carrier, bearing outer races and shims in all at once.
    
35. Put old crush sleeve and old bearing on the new pinion. A die grinder to grind out some of the inner old bearing race makes a good setup bearing. tighten the pinion nut.
    
36. Place marking compound on 5 ring gear teeth, both sides.
    
37. Spin the carrier to determine pattern. consult pattern guide included with your kit. you kit didn't come with a guide? shoulda bought Yukon gears.
    
38. If you pattern isn't conforming to the guide, add or remove shims from the pinion or carrier.
    
39. Once you think you have a good pattern, setup the dial indicator and measure backlash. Ideal is .8-.12 thousandths. if you're in the .12 or above, or .8 or below, add or remove shims to move the pinion in or out, or the carrier left or right. this can require some time dedication.
    
40. Once your happy with your gears, pull the carrier back out. Install new inner seals if you have them.
    
41. Remove the old crush sleeve and place a new one. Torque to the recommended spec.
    
42. Measure drag on the pinion with the torque wrench. should be ~8-10ft/lbs if i recall.
    
43. Place carrier back in the housing.
    
44. Replace carrier bearing caps and torque.
    
45. Re-torque pinion nut.
    
46. Replace axle shafts.
    
47. Replace c-clips.
    
48. Replace center pin and bolt.
    
49. Replace cover. seal well. sitting overnight is ideal.
    
50. Fill with 80w-90 gear oil.
    
    Go for a drive. If everything was done right, you should now have more power, and no rear end noise. if you do... you need to take the rear apart again, and reset the gears to clear the noise.
    
    I'm sure i forgot something, like thrust washers. Don't crucify me for it. If you want a REAL guide, you need to do more research.

Baseball bat, crowbar, breaker bar, torque wrench, shovel, hammer.

There's very few ranged weapons that aren't "considered weapons" but I can put together a very effective pneumatic "gun" that can run off my air compressor or a bike pump.

Triplines, snares, and deadfall traps would also work incredibly well.

A felled tree swinging with a rope that you can pull back to drop again and again would be great, they wouldn't care that they just saw a couple thousand pounds of wood shatter their friends, they'd walk right into it too.

EDIT: Removing stuff on second thought I don't really want tied to my username.

It would probably be cheaper to think about the tools you're going to definitely need and buy them individually as cheap as you can or in smaller sets.

90% of the tools i've used to do a lot of work on multiple bikes is with this £9 box of sockets and this £9 set of spanners.. The socket set has been amazing with its ratchet and spanner that clips into each other. So useful.

Also get a large torque wrench. I got this one which has been great: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000LFTSG6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

All that is less than £40 and will cover almost everything the average person is going to do with a bike.

Just a simple setup would be, in no particular order:

 

• Vise
  
• AR Tool - I have a powder coated green AR tool, forgot who makes it.
  
• Screwdrivers
  
• Good Lighting - Seriously, a good light source goes a long ways in the ease of building things. I have a drafting lamp very similar to this type.
  
• AR Mat - Useful for putting stuff together (and cleaning of course) your AR on your desk/dinner table, so your wife or SO won't murder you. I have this cleaning mat.
  
• Roll Pin Punches - I used a set of regular punches from Lowe's for a while, i finally got around to getting a set of actual roll pin punches on Amazon recently.
  
• Small Hammer - I got this small 8-ounce hammer on Amazon. It's perfect for use with the roll pin punches.
  
• Mallet - Useful for hitting things without marring up the finish.
  
• Vise Block - I use a Magpul Bev block for work on my lower or upper. Waiting for the next Geissele sale so i can snag a Geissele Super Reaction Rod to replace the Bev block on upper work.
  
• Allen Wrenches - I have this set of 3 hex-torx allen wrenches. Super handy for rails and other mount screws. Might also want a long handle set if you use a hex screw for your pistol grip like i do.
  
• Torque Wrench - I have this Tekton torque wrench for barrels nuts, castle nuts (if you do torque yours, i don't usually), and whatever else needs to be torqued.
  
• Torque Screwdriver Kit - I have this Wheeler Torque Wrench/Screwdriver set, super handy for screws that require a certain torque spec.
  
   
  
  That's what i can think of off the top of my head, you probably won't need all of that if you only plan on building a lower first. It'll be useful down the line to get most of those tools, but i'd go with first:
  
  
• AR tool
  
• Bev Block/Vise Blocks/Reaction Rod
  
• Roll Pin Punches
  
• Vise
  
  If you have Amazon Prime, there's quite a bit of stuff you can get on there, it's where i got most of my tools.
  
   
  
  ^Edit: ^Formatting.

I have a bridge to sell you for that interior 😲

These are things I have found especially useful. I've used these more than anything in my huge toolkit, but I'm glad I got it for other general wrenching.

• 3/8" and 1/2" breaker bars and torque wrenches if you don't like to guess whether you're going to strip a fastener like me. I found the Tekton brand is solid for torque wrenches, here's the 1/2" 250ft-lb.
  
  
• 22mm deep well socket (steering wheel)
  
  
• 8, 10, 17mm sockets, deep and standard
  
  
• socket extensions (u-joint probably wouldn't hurt)
  
  
• Flare wrenches, if you're doing the brake lines
  
  
• penetrating oil (liquid wrench or the like)
  
  
• Zip ties
  
  
• Work lamp - I found this one at Menards and it is so useful. Magnetic/rechargeable/lasts for hours
  
  
• Jack/Jack stands: picked up a cheap, durable set of Torin stands with a jack. I was thinking about something from Harbor freight, but I don't want to cheap out with something that I'm relying on to keep the car up.
  
  
• cheap multimeter
  
  
• spare wire (for jumping your oil service light after a DIY change)
  

I have the Tekton 1/4in 20-200 in/lb wrench, I have not had any issues with it. I also have the 10-150ft/lb wrench, but that's pretty much just for the car.

It's not a premium tool, but it works well, and I find them to be a good value for the price. I paid $30 for the torque wrench.

Also remember when you store torque wrenches to set them to 0. That way you remove the load from the ratchet mechanism while it sits around.

I did break one of their box wrenches before, it was 100% my fault. They sent me a new one for free no questions asked.

I highly recommend an electronic torque wrench.
The mechanical ones are very inaccurate at the bottom end of range. Head bolts are often at the bottom or below what they can even be set to.

I use this one and it works amazingly well. It can accurately go down to 3ftlb. You can set the desired torque and it has a beep alarm as you approach, reach, and go over the threshold. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004VYUKTC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I also recommend flying with a very basic set of tools. I fly with some hex keys and wrench that fits all the sizes on my paramator. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F512F74/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Siphon is nice to get fuel out of paramotor. This one works amazingly for me. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CKW15ZS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Radio chest harness. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007HJKSG8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I added a draw cord to attach my phone to. Phone then tucks into the velcro pocket and is secured by one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H4E9Z6O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It's powerful enough to draw in a medium weight phone.


Hook knife: https://superflyinc.com/products/jack-the-ripper-hook-knife


Power floats: https://glidersports.com/shop/powerfloat-2bsure/

Waste flotation: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013RLI9XS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Cut prop tape strips out of this: https://www.amazon.com/Scotchgard-Clear-Paint-Protection-60-inches/dp/B004VG8DS0/ref=sr_1_9?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1534535837&sr=1-9&keywords=3m+scotchgard


RTV silicon to put on exhaust springs to reduce vibration fatigue: https://www.amazon.com/Rutland-500%C2%B0RTV-High-Silicone-Black/dp/B000H5Y6CQ/ref=sr_1_5?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1534352404&sr=1-5&keywords=heat+resistant+silicon+rtv


Motor tachometer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GTP6ORC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Radio: I recommend the FT60 or FT65. The 60 model is tried and true and can also be modded to RX aviation band. FT65 has newer display and is cheaper having been made in China.

The only thing specifically you need is punches, rubber hammer, barrel wrench, castle nut wrench, muzzle wrench and a torque wrench. (A lot of times the barrel, castle and muzzle wrench is all one thing )I would suggest a tapco ar15 wrench which is best quality, and it has all those things included. I would say ar15 wrench can be had here Tapco Intrafuse AR Armorer's Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006PTMYHM/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_B-G9ub1ZJDXT8 for $30.00 another $30.00 Pittsburgh Professional 1/2" Drive Click Stop Torque Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006ZB9GKI/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_i.G9ub106TFPX for a torque wrench. And at a local harbor freight you can get punches for $10.00 and rubber hammer for $1.50. So I would say it would be a good investment for two reasons, you can use the tools again for friends/ family or more builds later. That and you can save yourself money, and see it as your getting these tools for free and maybe saving another $50.00 bucks

I got this set for Christmas. So far they have been all I have needed. But I have not done anything big to my bike yet.
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/socket-sets/halfords-advanced-professional-28-piece-metric-socket-set-3-8

They have a lifetime guarantee.

Also handy to have from your local Aldi is a set of these.
https://www.aldi.co.uk/ratchet-spanners---5-piece/p/093193017782400
They Re currently in stock. You might have to buy a 12mm spanner off eBay but it's a good starter set.

Also a breaker bar is a great idea. I got one from Halfords. Bit expensive but some of those bolts won't move with just a ratchet.

Also a torque wrench.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000LFTSG6/ref=s9_top_hd_bw_b27E4n9_g60_i1?pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-2&pf_rd_r=N2SJZ5GARTMTP3EBQD3A&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=687516687&pf_rd_i=1939055031

You can't. You can, but not with a standard air wrench. Air powered wrenchs with a specific torque are multi thousand dollar tools used in factories that have staff that recalibrates them every month.

What you need to do is find a different vehicle and run out to an Oriellys/AutoZone/AdvancedAuto/NAPA. Buy the bolt and do a free tool rental of a torque wrench that has a 44ftlb rating. It will be a wrench that is 2' long or longer. Looks like this. If its the first time using one, set the torque and torque down a random bolt/nut to the rating. Learn the click and get an idea of what 44 ft lbs feels like. Put it on the cab bolt, sneak up to but don't exceed the torque, get the wrench in the right position, handle it such that your arm is 90 degrees from the wrench shaft, and slowing pull until it clicks. Then reposition yourself so you can make a 170 degree turn without ratcheting to put the bolt into the final position.

I would ask a buddy if he has a torque wrench or screw driver in lb/in. If not, here's one I'm probably going to buy. It's best to eliminate as much as you can with the hardware. If everything is to spec, you've at least eliminated your rig. There could be a little bit of cant in your reticle. I'd also read this article to make sure you've eliminated cant in your reticle to the best of your abilities.

Howto post pics to reddit can be found here.

https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Firearms-Accurizing-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0012AXR4S

There's the analog version from Amazon. I have one, I like it, it seems to work well. I don't have anything to test it against, so I don't know if the torque it puts out is accurate, or if it's the best of the best, but it's good enough for me.

I've had bad luck with torque wrenches in the past, so I decided to go a different route. I gave some "Torque Adapters" a try from ACDelco, and I was really pleasantly surprised! They come in 1/2 inch and 3/8th inch flavors. They are quite easy to use as well!

I have one from Nashbar.. 25% off today, so $60.

I also have a fixed 5Nm wrench, not exactly this one but similar.

This makes things like threadless stem replacing really quick.

For 6Nm, I carry Topeak's 6Nm Torqbox. Not on my work bench but on the road.

EDIT:
After I returned one from Harbor Freight one, I bought Tekton's one for 3/8" drive. For bike, this one is too big. I used this to install the hitch on my car so I can mount a lovely bike rack.

Seems pretty simple. The only real frame specific stuff you'll need to do are:

• coat the inside of the frame with framesaver (double check with the mfg that it's not already treated) or it will rust from the inside out
  
  
• install BB (possibly face BB surface, up to you)
  
  
  Nothing else is particularly finicky or difficult. Disc brakes can be a bit of a bear, and if you go hydraulic you'll what a bleeding kit. All pretty simply bike stuff after that, e.g. routing lines, tuning derailleurs, etc.
  
  I'd recommend getting a low range torque wrench for things like your crank bolts, brake bolts etc. I've been happy with this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C5ZL2EG/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Totally man. I don't mind paying for good tools, but after a certain point you just get diminishing returns. The truck guys might make sense for someone who makes a living from their tools and, for some reason, can't drive to a store or wait 2 days for a replacement in the mail, but for anything else there's good tools to be found for reasonable cost.

For example, I love my Tekton 1/2" torque wrench. Thing is sturdy as hell, comes in a nice case, will do anything from 10ftlbs to 150ftlbs, and is only $40. It was the first tool I got from them, and I've been so impressed that nearly all of the hand tools I've purchased sense have been Tekton, if they make the tool in question.

I do occasionally end up at HF if I really need the thing same-day, or don't expect to use it more than a few times a year, but for the basics it's hard to beat Tekton in my experience. Hell, just the other day, I needed a T8 Securty Torx bit, so I ordered this thing and it's way better made than I expected it to be.

Reading back over this, I sound like a corporate shill, but I've found it hard to beat Tekton's intersection of price, quality, and Prime shipping.

This might be excessive, but I wanted to be thorough so you can see what all is out there. I am having trouble thinking of anything that the following tools can't do, in terms of AR building and maintenance. This is basically my setup at home, though some.of the brands and whatnot are different.

I am operating under the assumption that you already have some basic hand tools in addition to the torque wrench.

The only things you absolutely need are roll pin punches and an armorer's wrench and some basic hand tools like Allen wrenches, screwdrivers, needlenose pliers and so on. The rest just expedite the process and help solve weird issues that may come up.


Wheeler Engineering Roll Pin Starter Punch Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B3NWBVI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QJZDAb1ZFBQ80

Wheeler Roll Pin Punch Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EE6GHVW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4JZDAbV5YGA8M

Wheeler Hammer and Punch Set In Plastic Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SY07HU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FNZDAb1Y74EF0

Geissele Automatics 10-169 AR15/M4 Reaction Rod https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EY6WFAI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hOZDAbD3JHBAE

Aeroshell 33ms / MIL-G-21164D / MIL-SPEC Barrel Nut Thread Grease + 1/2oz can https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BJ3HE0K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4OZDAbQGRYJJ2

TEKTON Long Arm Ball End Hex Key Wrench Set, Inch/Metric, 26-Piece | 25282 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I5THF4W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PPZDAbQ05H680

TEKTON Long Arm Star Key Wrench Set, T10-T50, 9-Piece | 25291 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I5THF9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cQZDAbRX59VNW

IRWIN Tools Multi-Purpose Bench Vise, 5-Inch (4935505) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009TOCZEC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1QZDAbT8R47J0

Yost UP-360 Universal 6 Inch Prism Style Jaw Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EVQH42U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aRZDAbRHAV73E

Real Avid Gun Tool Pro - for Modern Sporting Rifles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IMHX5KA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bUZDAbEB87JFB

Wheeler Firearms Accurizing Torque Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012AXR4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xWZDAb1SRYD6D

Wheeler Professional Gunsmithing Screwdriver Set (43-Piece) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HTN4EWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HXZDAbQX5BEWF

TacWater USA AR15/M4/M16 Tools Multi-Purpose Tool Set (W) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079H5WWZ3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GYZDAbRGY3CNH

Takedown Pivot PIN Tool set 223 556 6.8 SPC 300 AAC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017OUSJFQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_V.ZDAbSHZPEG5

Magpul Bev Block https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1015877615/magpul-bev-block-ar-15-action-block

Not a split beam style one. Never have to reset those when putting them away.

This one is a stellar buy - non branded snap on for a fraction of the cost. I love my hf stuff but this torque wrench is the best one I’ve ever had

Precision Instruments PREC3FR250F Silver 1/2" Drive Split Beam Torque Wrench with Flex Head https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XMSFIM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_M4aPCbFEZ9X3H

During the winter months I also have a set of extraction mats. If I'm not getting traction, I slide them under the truck tires, and it gives me a little extra grip. I've only had to use them a few times, but they've really helped when I needed them!

But yeah, get the standard stuff, jumper cables, headlamp, etc.

I like a first aid kit and a few extra tools. I tend to have some of the cheap emergency blankets as well.

I also have this little tool in my console:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071YKX8HN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have used it a grand total of three times. The first time was to help start a gas-fueled fireplace outside of a brewery when the bartender lost their key for it. The second and third time was to drop retractable/foldable posts designed to keep vehicles out of particular areas. However, I had been asked to drive my vehicle into those areas for work purposes and when other people were done they just locked up and left. The second time it happened it was ten degrees, snowing, and with no cell signal. So yeah, for under ten bucks, it has been handy.

Look man, if you really want to spend $300 on a wrench that you use once or twice a year, go nuts.

On the other hand, you can get a Made in China version that will do what you want for $25 shipped to your door.

I've had that one for 3 years, and it's worked flawlessly both times I've used it. Got my money's worth out of it in a single spark plug change. What I've found is that a big ass torque wrench just isn't that necessary in every day life. Is that wrench going to break a lot sooner than a fancy expensive one? Yup. I don't care, given my usage of it so far.

If I made my money as a mechanic, you bet your ass I'd be buying the best tools I could find. As a guy who occasionally needs the torque on something to be pretty close to the spec, the one above is just fine for me. If it ever breaks, I'll have a $25 club which is cool too.

Yes. You definitely should make sure you mount everything with the correct torque. I recommend the Wheeler Fat Wrench for installing scopes, mounts, etc.

I replaced:

1. driver and passenger side valve cover gaskets
   
   
2. driver side valve cover (FINDAUTO Valve Cover 13264-EA210... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y1Q3C5Z?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share ) (because I broke my original one trying to replace spark plug hole seals)....I recommend replacing both valve covers because those center seals are probably cooked if you’re anywhere near 100k+ miles—and they’re non-serviceable on the frontier’s cheesy plastic valve covers.
   
   
3. all 1-6 spark plugs (check that your ignition coils are also good while you have them out.)
   
   
4. Air plenum and throttle body gaskets (you can get them both as a kit) Vincos Upper Intake/Plenum Gasket... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PKQBLM1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   
5. Air filter: Bosch Workshop Air Filter 5486WS... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VC1Q0Q4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   
6. Engine air cleaner intake duct (mine were cracked): Engine Air Cleaner Intake Duct... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K7V2ZX6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   
7. Pcv Tube (I might be misnomering this part)— (breather tube between the two valve covers. Mine was completely dry rotted) Part No.: 11826-EA200 nissanpartsdeal.com
   
   
8. Two intake valve timing control gaskets (p/n 23797-ZA000 nissanpartsdeal.com)—mine were cashed and you have to take the air Plenum off to replace the passenger side one, so you might as well do it while your Plenum is off. You have to remove these valve control modules to remove the valve covers anyway, so replacing their gaskets is a no-brainer.
   
   •••••••••
   
   
9. My next project is to replace my oil cooler gasket:
   
   MAHLE Original B32573 Engine Oil... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0184JRWN6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   Mine is pissing oil.
   
   •••••••••
   
   I also replaced my number 3 ignition coil. Mine was bad. A mechanic did that one for me. It’s a pisser. 🤦🏻‍♂️
   
   ••••••••
   
   If you need a good low-force torque wrench, I recommend this: TEKTON TRQ21101 1/4-Inch Drive... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M12284X?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   It’s only 1/4” drive, but it works very well. High quality.

Awesome and congrats!
As far as how it sits it was just temporarily mounted.
The case I thought I had which was large enough for this was not, so I had to disassemble it.

I plan to order one of these, while browsing this sub reddit

Wheeler torque wrench

Though about something like this? I can't personally vouch for it, but it gets great reviews and has a very broad range.

I just go to Autozone and use "rent a tool" to borrow their breaker bars, torque wrench. They charge your credit card and give you 90 days to return it in same working condition. Having said that I know youtube channel "Chris Fix" recommended one of amazon's best selling torque wrenches for weekend garage diy'ers... here's the link
https://amzn.com/B00C5ZL0RU

• EGW 20 MOA base ($39.99)
  
• 2 x Vortex Tactical 30mm rings ($19.99 x 2)
  
• Primary Arms 4-14x44 FFP ($229.99)
  
• Wheeler FAT torque screwdriver ($44.99)
  
  This will bring you in under $500. You get a first focal plane mil/mil scope with adjustable power with plenty of internal adjustment to dial your elevation. Save up for better glass and upgrade as you go. This setup will get you to 1000 yards easily.

It isn't necessary, but torque wrenches are very useful and versatile tools for cars, motorcycles, lawnmowers, and guns.

Basically, if you like toys, get a torque wrench. They don't have to be expensive.

Get something like this https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Firearms-Accurizing-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0012AXR4S
Tourqe it down to spec and do like ppl say. Go from one side to the other. Right tool and technique will get you a correct mount and no chance of squeezing the tube due to excessive force. If your not sure of the needed force something like the tool i linked will give you piece of mind. And i can recommend buying lapping equipment.

I bought this ACDelco digital torque wrench. Pricey but amazing. For chassis work, just get a $12 harbor freight torque wrench in 1/2" and you should be fine. The only time you'll need a 1/4" drive is if you're doing inch/pounds.

I have the bigger brother of the tekton you mentioned: https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24340-2-Inch-ft-lb-33-9-338-9/dp/B00C5ZL1NS

Since I drive an F150 with lug nuts that need 150ft/#. And as with most precision devices, they don't operate their best at either extreme.

The thing is solid, and all my tekton tools have been a pleasure to use. But I have read online as I am sure you have that spring types like the tekton can lose calibration A) over time, B) if you do not return to the lowest setting.

The Tekton would be fine probably forever, but if you bite the bullet now you can get the generic version of the snap-on for about 3X: https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Instruments-PREC3FR250F-Silver-Torque/dp/B002XMSFIM/

I came across this link on this subreddit about who actually makes the tools for snap-on, and you can find it here: http://www.toolchat.net/

Since most snap-on are just re-branded. The 2nd wrench I linked is a split-beam and does not have the associated accuracy-over-time issues of the spring type ones.

That said, with the Tekton you can spend that other 100$ on more needed tools, then graduate to higher quality over time. Having a spare around is awesome.

good call given the spec for my rims is 120 Nm +/- 10. Given that i think I may order the 1/2 one and get a 1/2 to 3/8 reducer and deal with the bulk when I'm under the car doing an oil change. By that time i may invest in a 3/8 or 1/4. Had to add in I'm so excited to order my Rhino Ramps instead of jacking up my car I'm like a kid in a candy store lol

Best thing about these wrenches is you don't have to crank them back down to 20 ft/lbs after each use like you do with spring based torque wrenches.

https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Instruments-PREC3FR250F-Silver-Torque/dp/B002XMSFIM/ref=sr_1_10?crid=3TMDK1QRGU9I&keywords=torque+beam+wrench&qid=1564321191&s=gateway&sprefix=torque+beam%2Caps%2C129&sr=8-10

This is the generic version of that wrench.

It's good to have for a lot of jobs. I have this one, works great.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL0RU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just got a relatively nice 1/2" Tekton torque wrench for $37. They have a longer one that goes up to 250 ft-lb for $54. I'm not saying it's the best, but it's solidly middle-of-the-road and way better than HF.

Torque wrenches are precision equipment and should be treated as such. Don't apply more than 150 ft-lb in the reverse direction (i.e. dont use it as a breaker bar). For the models that have to be stored with the torque set at the lowest setting... make sure you do that.

For a bicycle, get a torque key and call it a day.

I personally use a [Ritchey Torque Key](Ritchey Torque Key Bike Torque Wrench - 6-Bit Set, 5Nm Preset Max Torque https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SU86GCK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kNfWDbPHT1AFQ). Works Great for all the smaller bolts. Anything requiring more torque, like bottom brackets and cassettes, just wing it.

In my experience, 85% of "gunsmiths" are FUDDs. I've had some who refused to remove the pin & weld on a *stripped* barrel (it was not even connected to an upper, even though that wouldn't have made a difference because the lower is serialized/the firearm) because it would have violated the NFA. And he was extremely popular in the area and a complete koala-dick prick.

Meanwhile, I know a guy who supposedly took an AK to have the barrel chopped when it was still connected to the serialized receiver... and technically that'd make the gunsmith the maker and not the dude who had done the Form 1.

I know it's not what you're looking to do, but I strongly suggest you treat yourself to some self-education and invest in a torque wrench ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL0RU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) and also a do-all tapco wrench (yes Tapco, but the wrench is GTG: https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/wrenches/ar-15-m16-armorer-s-tool-prod54530.aspx Sadly, amazon doesn't have it atm). With these two things, you will be able to master your upper receiver/barrel group life.

Then, YouTube has all the videos you need on replacing the barrel https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1NjNEQr4lCM&list=PLmovdvtE7X-iTinH_f2fTsVW6CWYMPcln&index=4&t=0s It's very much not that difficult.

It's worth it, I promise. You'll pay that much anyways just for one barrel change. And you can do it yourself, for the first time, in just 2 hours to account for the hemming/hawwing. Afterwards, with experience, it takes ~20min (removing the handguard, replacing, etc.).

If you buy from PSA, I'd recommend using a pre-paid credit card, as they've had site security issues in the past.

I think by "80% lower" you may have been thinking of a stripped lower, where all you have is the aluminum lower, with none of the controls installed. A stripped lower is s great place to start! YouTube has a bunch of easy how-to videos. I recommend /u/nsz85 videos, which I used for my first build.

Some other things you'll want to have handy:

Vice Block for Lower

Vice Block for Upper

Roll pin starter kit

Rubber Mallet

Torque Wrench

These are the basics, and once you buy them, you'll never have to buy them again for future builds. There's other tools out there to consider, but get you started.

Best of luck!

EDIT: shit, how could I forget the AR Wrench!

Buy a torque wrench. They're important to have and not terribly expensive either. This one has worked great for me. $35.

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24335-2-Inch-ft-lb-13-6-203-5/dp/B00C5ZL0RU/ref=sr_1_3?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1524178399&sr=1-3&keywords=torque+wrench+1%2F2+inch+drive

Save the money you would have spent on a gunsmith and buy a $50 torque wrench.

Depending on the rings you buy, you may need blue loctite. Before you tighten anything, close your eyes and find your natural cheek weld. Open your eyes and move the scope forward or back to suit. Level the scope. You can use bubbles, but I find squaring a flat surface on the bottom of the scope to the rail is more foolproof. Use torque wrench to tighten everything following instructions that come with the rings.

I have thought about putting together an "urban" kit something like this:

A variety of different bump keys

Easy to carry set of lock picks

A multi-functional silcock key to access water

A "truckers friend" combination crowbar, axe, hammer

Sawzall blade handle and various blades for cutting metal and wood

And a good pair of gloves

I think this would cover all my bases and be able to get me into or out of pretty much anywhere I can expect to be, but it's a lot of equipment so I think it may be overkill

**The links are just representative of what I have in mind and not the actual product I would purchase.

Ok, cool. I have this one from Amazon:
http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00FMPKAD0

Since it's rated for 80 ft-lbs, I should be ok for the 50 ft-lbs torque specified in the Curt install sheet.

It's not difficult, you just need the tools to pull your current handguard off and remove the barrel nut (because most handguards comes with their own proprietary barrel nut). Then you'll thread on your new barrel nut, tighten it down to roughly 30ftlbs, install the new handguard, and you're done.

You'll probably need an AR15 armorers wrench, anti-seize/grease of some sort (I like Loctite Anti-Seize, but some people have heartburns over what to use. Something is better than nothing), and a torque wrench. And probably also another inch-lb torque wrench.

As for the quality of the handguard, I've never used that one, so I can't speak for it.

You can get a beam style torque wrench for about ten bucks. You don't need one for this project, but it's a fair excuse to get one. I'm sure you'll use it in the future.

good idea for "to change flat tire". in the shop today, I want to use my hand tool to loose that lug nuts to make sure it's smooth, that piss off the boss, he asked me to get lost. I should come up with a reasoning of "just in case I need to change flat tire".

>remove them often enough
do you remove them every 3 months or 6 months? I usually didn't touch it if there is need to, such as to change a flat tire.

> Torque it down, dry
you dry the lug nuts before put it on? May I know what's the purpose?

Thank you for your recommendation of the 3 tools, do you think these 3 looks Ok:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL0RU/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_b2Lfk_c_x_1_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=CWTA8X0BR49HVQ186Y8Y&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=365b646d-0ab5-53c3-9063-fe500e13a356&pf_rd_i=559968

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-1-2-in-drive-quick-release-teardrop-ratchet/p-00944809000P

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-15356-2-Inch-24-Inch-Breaker/dp/B00MWVAUT6


Thank you!

For sparkplugs, engine air filter, and cabin filter you can DIY for much less if you're inclined, need a torque wrench and the bmw spark plug socket

total: ~130 + tax/shipping if any (amazon prime?)

Takes about an hour to do, maybe 2 if you're not mechanically inclined. These are all done at the same time in the same steps (you have to to remove the cabin air filter housing anyway to get to the spark plugs)

You need a socket wrench and socket for removing the cabin air filter and the torque wrench and the spark plug socket and thats it. Plenty of DIYs online you can just follow

plugs ~34

socket tool ~10

torque wrench ~$30

cabin air filter ~$27

air filter ~28

Rear brakes 277 seems okay, maybe a tiny bit high by a few dollars

That sucks. Sorry :-(

Personally, I've always preferred this style of torque wrench, it's significantly cheaper aswell: http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Classic-Needle-Style-8-Inch-2-Inch/dp/B0019VMI0Y [note that that's just the first link that came up when I googled "torque wrench needle"; it's definitely not a product recommendation]

I also recommend getting a bit more of an intuition for the numbers; 19 ft lbs really ain't much torque. That's like... "I gave it a good twist". It's good if you have the mental check in place that "I know I had to go to 19, but this feels pretty hard".

If you need to get an intuition about this stuff, think about the units; you know what twenty pounds feels like, and you know how long a foot is. Imagine putting about 20 pounds of force on a foot-long wrench... that's 20 foot-pounds.

$15 disagree.

For gxp a beam wrench is actually better than a clicky one imo because the torque required is pretty high.

Torque wrench

Socket set

Hex sockets

1/2 inch Ratchet

1/4 inch Ratchet

Combo wrench set

Calipers

Chain tool

Pretty close to everything you'll ever need to work on a bike, besides specialty tools. Buy or borrow other stuff when the issue comes up! You can do it!!

Edit: Added calipers.

i think CDI makes torque wrenches for snap-on...could be wrong about that. i am pleased with this one i bought a couple years ago. also got a smaller 3/8" drive

i hear that any snap-on tool truck will calibrate them for free but its been a while since i did the research.

hope this helps

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002LA1EDO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can buy a beam style torque wrench for less than $20 so that in the future you can torque away confident that you're not grossly exceeding or undershooting the correct torque value: https://www.amazon.com/Tooluxe-03703L-Torque-Wrench-Hardened/dp/B0019VMI0Y/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_469_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8SE6HAEEYYSXHDKN6EJS

I personally wouldn't buy a torque wrench from HF they are very good for certain things that are solid metal (socket, crescent wrench) but anything more technical I may not trust them. I purchased this torque wrench from amazon and it has served me well at $30 10-80ftlb.

Something like this is all you'll need. I've used my tekton a bunch and it stays accurate. If you have amazon prime it's like $25

My current favorite:

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24320-4-Inch-Torque-2-26-22-6/dp/B00C5ZL2EG

For higher torque values, you'll need to go up to the 3/8" drive version.

Lowe's has the same item for the same price.

Yes, $9 for a little wrenchette is definitely overpriced. Even amazon's price of $6 is too high, IMHO. I guess the lesson is "don't lose it" and if you do, just use a regular 1/4 inch hex wrench (aka an allen key).

Don't be stupid. Get a decent torque wrench.

For $30, Amazon is your friend:

TEKTON 24330 3/8-Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench (10-80 ft.-lb./13.6-108.5 Nm)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FMPKAD0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_HzgxzbAME8322

Yes, it will xome in handy. Get yourself one of these or better yet the whole kit that comes with lapping bars and everything.

If you want to build an AR on your own (grown man legos ftw) I suggest you build one. You can build a quality AR on the cheap. There is a barrier to entry from the tools you will need but from there on out you can use those tools for multiple builds. At a minimum you will need:

• AR Armorer's Tool
  
• https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1007352657/tapco-multi-tool-ar-15 <- I got this one
  
• https://www.midwayusa.com/product/925925/magpul-ar-15-armorers-wrench-multi-tool-steel-black <- the best one and most $$$
  
• http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/wrenches/ar-15-armorer-s-wrench-prod80294.aspx <- decent trade off
  
• 1/2 inch torque wrench
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL0RU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• 1/2 inch breaker bar
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-00206A-Premium-Breaker-Length/dp/B001222378/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1505016107&sr=8-3&keywords=breaker+bar
  
• torque screwdriver
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012AXR4S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• vice
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Yost-LV-4-Home-Vise-4-1/dp/B00YS401X0/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1505016377&sr=1-2&keywords=vise <- bolt to workbench type
  
• https://www.amazon.com/SE-8436MVC-Universal-Table-Vise/dp/B0013E2AQY/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1505016377&sr=1-7&keywords=vise <- clamp on type
  
• upper vice block
  
• https://www.midwayusa.com/product/210021/wheeler-engineering-delta-series-upper-receiver-ar-15-action-vise-block-clamp
  
• lower vice block
  
• https://www.midwayusa.com/product/855360/magpul-bev-block-ar-15-action-block
  
• moly lithium grease/aeroshell 33 MS grease
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BJ3HE0K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• loctite 242 (blue) and 271 (red)
  
• roll pin punch set
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Engineering-Delta-Roll-Install/dp/B01B3NWDIE
  
• You will also likely need some basic tools, like a hammer, screwdriver set, hex tool set, etc.
  
• OPTIONAL: scope bubble level; for use if you mount a scope
  
• https://www.midwayusa.com/product/529349/wheeler-engineering-level-level-level-scope-crosshair-leveling-tool <- basic version, will work
  
• https://www.midwayusa.com/product/189016/wheeler-engineering-professional-reticle-leveling-system <- fancier version. easier to use
  
• OPTIONAL: gun vice
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Tipton-181181-Best-Gun-Vise/dp/B001AT3SCC/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1505017850&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=gun+vice <- I like this one but there are cheaper options out there. Also, no you cannot replace an actual vice with this. This is more of a "holder" and won't be able to stand up to the torque you'll have to apply to some barrel nuts (30-80 ft lbs).
  
  ---
  
  As for AR parts you can go pretty basic with an Anderson lower (~$45 not including paperwork). Or you can get a "better" lower that has build in ambi mag release, that tab that prevents rattling (can't remember what it's called atm), etc. The lower will last you through multiple builds. I'm still rocking the Anderson lower on this ~$4,500 build so it's definitely versatile.
  
  From there you can also go basic with the upper, where I suggest an Aero Precision (~$65). From there you'll need a BCG, barrel, handguard, buffer tube (technical term is receiver extension), stock, pistol grip, trigger, and lower and uppers parts kits.
  
  If you want something you can just go and shoot and don't care to modify, then buy a pre-built AR. If you want to build one to custom fit your needs then I suggest you put down the money on the tools. Best part about the tools is that you can fix and replace most issues that comes up with your or your friends ARs.
  
  Also don't forget to buy some liquid blue and aluminium black just in case.

Dont buy a harbor freight torque wrench. I bet your hand is more accurate. Seriously, HF stuff is just a waste of money.

If you want to own one, spend a little bit more and have some patience. This one will do and its only $40.

If you dont want to spend $40, go to Autozone and rent one for free. You pay them the price of the wrench and then bring it back in 48 hours for a full refund. It a program they started to stop people from buying and returning tools all the time and its great. I think O'Riley has something similar too.

From Tekton Tools

1. Get a large fixed weight (such as a 45 lb. steel plate) and a way of hanging it on the end of your torque wrench (such as a rope). Add up the weight of the objects you’ll be hanging on the torque wrench (for example, total weight = 46 lb. if the steel plate weighs 45 lb. and the rope weighs 1 lb.)
   
   ​
   
   
2. Measure the distance in inches from the center of the torque wrench handle to the drive tang. Divide by 12 to get the number of feet—for example, 21 in. = 1.75 ft.
   
   ​
   
   
3. Set the torque wrench to the total weight of the objects you will hang on it multiplied by the number of feet. In this example, 46 lb. * 1.75 ft. = 80.5 ft-lb. of torque.
   
   ​
   
   
4. Fix the drive end on a fastener or other object that won’t move so that the torque wrench is parallel to level ground. You can use a level to make sure the wrench is really parallel.
   
   ​
   
   
5. Hang the weight from the center of the handle. Don’t let the weight touch the ground.
   
   ​
   
   
6. Your torque wrench is accurate if it clicks when set to the same torque as you are generating, as long as it doesn't click when less torque is applied. You can check this last part by moving the weight in slightly toward the drive, which will reduce the torque. The torque wrench shouldn’t click when the weight is moved closer. If it does, it is under-measuring the torque, meaning that your fastener won't be tight enough.
   
   ​
   
   ​
   
   Or just use a torque adapter like this.

>I trust he would do a much better job than I would.

No he won't. All you need is a torque wrench, you may already have one, if not, a beam wrench like this is preferable to a click style for something like this.

Don't listen to people telling you to level your scope to your rifle. Anyone who tells you this has no idea what they are talking about and just repeating what other idiots told them, this is not a thing, and it does nothing.

Optimally what you want is the scope mounted so that the elevation adjustments bisect the bore, and the way to do this is through a live fire test, levels mounted to your rifle and scope wont do this (and that's what your idiot "gunsmith" is going to do, you will have paid him for nothing. ).

*It's a Christmas miracle, kinguta finally figured out he was wrong and I was right all along after passionately trying to convince me twice.

Most shops have a little blurb on the work order telling you to stop back by in 100 miles to have the torque checked. No one ever does but this is the reason it exists. In my personal experience the basic ugly steel wheels are usually fine but the fancy bling rims need to be retorqued quite often.

Stop back by next week and ask them to check the torque on all of them. Better yet go get yourself a torque wrench so you can do this yourself for the rest of your life. This one is cheap and will work fine. The beam type are pretty much good forever. (fixed link to one that will actually work)

Park Tool discontinued their beam type torque wrenches in 2016.

Why. :< Like seriously.

I just use two different beam types. The little one gets the most use, and the big one is there for the rest.

The little one is this random thing on Amazon. Taiwanese brand. Not sure if this tool in particular is made in Taiwan or China. 0-9 Nm, 0-80 in lbs scale.

I also wanted a big beam type that went up to 70 newton meters without going very far beyond that. I think that pretty much covers everything, even the bottom brackets that require a ton of torque.

So I got the Park Tool TW-2. I caved and just bought one on ebay (old stock still in packaging) for a premium. The TW-2 scale goes up to 600 inch pounds or 70 newton meters.

Fat wrench is the best thing ever. Amazon

You don't need a $300 Snap-on. Look at CDI wrenches, they make Snap-on's wrench.

A $130 CDI 10-100 clicker will be sufficient for all the bolts on your bike, very accurate, well build and most importantly it can be calibrated:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LA19P2/ref=twister_B00LLTCX3G?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Just get a torque wrench and whatever socket fits your lug nuts. Look up what your car is supposed to have and just leave the wrench set to that.

Check it up every few months, only takes like 10 seconds to do and doesn't need any special skill to accomplish. If you can use a screwdriver you can use a torque wrench, just makes a loud click when it hits the setting. Sure beats going to a tire place every time you need to do that.

Just get a $5 disposal wrench. It sticks in the bottom of the disposal and unjams it. Super simple to do.

InSinkErator WRN-00 JamBuster Wrenchette https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQ7WE0/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_4oLkyb7VQXCG8

They do make one that has a more reasonable torque range for bikes. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004VYUKTC

It's nice in that it measures torque for left-handed threads as well. I use it for pedals and bottom brackets mostly.

I bought this guy off Amazon and I've been very pleased with it.

Ingersoll Rand makes a BAD ASS impact gun, over 700 lb-ft of torque and it has amazing ratings. Check it: here!

Now if you want to get it fixed professionally, by all means do so. But I wouldn't let lack of a torque wrench hold you back. This 1/2" drive one is only $40. I'm sure it's not the world's greatest torque wrench, but Tekton has a decent reputation. Harbor freight sells a 1/4" drive for $10 (after coupon, ~$20 otherwise).

You can rent a lot of specialty tools for bearings, etc from part stores like Autozone or Orielly's. I haven't seen anything saying they rent torque wrenches, but I'd give them a call at least.

>but be careful with cheap torque wrenches. They're made in China and are rarely calibrated accurately.

Any suggestions which brands would be not cheap? and what should I expect to pay for a decent torque wrench?


Also below are both 3/8 wrenches one is measured in inches 120-960 the other is feet, 10-80, which converts to the same exact measurements, is there a benefit to having a wrench in inches over feet or vice versa?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FMPKAD0

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C5ZL12Y

no, no torque wrench in the kit, but I probably wouldn't want a "kit" torque wrench. This kit just gives you basically every and any size socket you will ever need, plus a lot of wrenches, a screw driver with changeable bits, and a few other things. I got this one on Amazon, I've cranked on it up to 140 lbs on my Toro zero degree mower and it's great.

Thanks to everyone for your help! I bought all the tools you mentioned (https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-Drive-Socket-Extension-SHA11106/dp/B07R8JQKGK

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24330-8-Inch-ft-lb-13-6-108-5/dp/B00FMPKAD0

https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-Tools-22887-Magnetic-Socket/dp/B00AXTKZ26)

and just replaced the spark plugs. Here is a photo of the old one. It seems it is not that worn, but I have replaced the four anyway.

Here’s the manual hand tool, no vibration, way if anyone needs that:

Crank Pulley Holder Tool $15

Short Breaker Bar $14

Long Breaker Bar $35

Plus, the correct size 1/2 deep socket that fits on your crank bolt. $10-15

• Jack up the front of the car high.
  
• Put the pulley holder and small breaker on — to hold the pulley in place.
  
• Stick breaker handle between some strong suspension parts. This is going to hold the crank from spinning counter clockwise.
  
• Put your long breaker and socket on the bolt.
  
• Stand in-front for the driver headlight, and put your weight on the long breaker with your foot.
  
  I usually have someone look it everything is saying put while I put my weight on it.
  
  If you have a hard time getting enough clearance you can do the jack stand and multiple extensions trick.
  
  P.S. These guys used pipe instead of the long breaker, and socket wrenches instead — I would use breakers for both. How to Video
  
  Just be careful if you know it’s seized or suspect it is. Then you’ll need to explore other methods. Don’t want to snap the bolt.
  
  Then if you want to torque to spec, then a long torque that can hit your needed ft/lbs.
  example

I've used this thing with decent success. https://www.amazon.com/Ritchey-5Nm-6-Bit-Torque-Key/dp/B00SU86GCK

> 15 nm

ah, bummer, that's right in the range where small cheap ones are too small and the large ones are too large.

the only decent, but relatively cheap one i could find was a tekton one, which i use now

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24320-4-Inch-Torque-20-200-Inch/dp/B00C5ZL2EG

that said, if you know what 15nm feels like, you could probably get close enough and be fine- seat bolt specs are a lot tigher than most other bolts on a bike

Vortex has a good option.

Wheeler also has a digital version of the same FAT Wrench.

This one doesn't look bad either.

Just make sure you get an inch pounds wrench and not a foot pounds wrench.

Tekton wrench has worked well for me https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24320-4-Inch-Torque-2-26-22-6/dp/B00C5ZL2EG

Use Vortex rings. I have them on my Ruger American and they are amazing. I can't remember which model they are but /u/vortexoptics can chime in. I use the ones that have size screws. I got my torque wrench on Amazon for like $45 from wheeler. Here it is.

I'm gonna poke around vortex website and see if I can find the rings for you. This is they. They are not the best thing Votex offers and I can't even find them on their website anymore hence why I had to hunt down amazon. These things work though. They aren't as good as some of my other rings but you can't beat the quality for the price.

this is the norm. Good reviews too, or you could go crazy.

Why that Precision Instruments wrench over a CDI torque wrench, which is who makes Snap-On's torque wrenches, last I checked?
I'm asking for research purposes, not criticism.

I have this saved in my tool wish list.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LA19P2/

If you want a torque wrench/screw driver for scope mounting or other light smithing work Wheeler makes a good one.

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Amazon Smile Link: http://smile.amazon.com/Ingersoll-W7150-K1-High-Torque-Impactool-Charger/dp/B007LHJI4E/ref=pd_cp_hi_1


|Country|Link|
|:-----------|:------------|
|Japan|amazon.co.jp|




This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.

Tekton 24320. Print out an nm-to-in/lbs conversion chart to save yourself a headache.

This one is not overly expensive at $38 and has very good reviews. http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24320-4nch-To-Irque-20-200-Inch/dp/B00C5ZL2EG/ref=sr_1_3?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1427333182&sr=1-3&keywords=torque+wrench

Most scope rings/bases use 15-30 in-lbs. I'd highly recommend this one:


Wheeler Firearms Accurizing Torque Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012AXR4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eBqpxbSC2XE5G

This is the one that most people end up buying. I've had it for a couple years, 5 stars! It comes with all the bits you'll need.

Have you considered a beam type torque wrench like this one? Most beam torque wrenches have scales for both forward and reverse.

Park Tool makes a ratcheting torque wrench with a range of 3-15 Nm that they explicitly state is reversible.

I got a tekton one for about $40 on Amazon, it doesn't have to be high dollar as the torque range is huge. I built my dad's without one and just went to the next gas tube spot past "tight" never had any issues and that thing shoots. That method wouldn't work so well for the aero Handguards that have 4 spots for the gas tube and a set of shims though so I got one for a friend's build.

TEKTON 24335 1/2-Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench (10-150 ft.-lb./13.6-203.5 Nm)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C5ZL0RU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LNTWAbP1FXQPT

loctite blue and aeroshell 33ms for the barrel install, also great for installing a freefloat handguard and scope mounts. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012AXR4S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ive found luck with this punch set, although the 3/32 did bend a smidge when I was pounding the hell out of it when pinning my gas block. also a rollpin starter punch set is a nice addition.

https://www.amazon.com/Fixxxer-Hollow-Stainless-Steel-Starter/dp/B0191RFK4I/ref=sr_1_4?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1480117372&sr=1-4&keywords=starter+punch+set

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012TKY0VI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

CDI is good.

This is the one I have in my garage.
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24340-2-Inch-ft-lb-33-9-338-9/dp/B00C5ZL1NS/
The 25 to 250 ft lbs will cover 99.9% of everything on a passenger vehicle, and the 1/2 inch drive is a good size for the sockets that will be used for wheels and suspension.

Here is a torque wrench

TEKTON 24340 1/2-Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench (25-250 ft.-lb./33.9-338.9 Nm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C5ZL1NS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8xKQybQQE21EE

Should be easy to learn how to use with YouTube.

So I should get something like this?

Update:

After reading a bunch of reviews and looking at all the recommendations, I decided to go with the ritchey 5Nm 6-bit set given that I need to use this only a couple of times a year, if that.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SU86GCK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thank you all for your input!

I can't say with any certainty but it wouldn't surprise me if many electricians don't use torque tools.

I'm not a pro but I got me one of these "firearms" torque screwdrivers because I like to do it as correctly as possible.

Failing that I'd say that it's probably better to over-tighten than to under-tighten, so long as you don't strip or break the threads.

Agreed, a beam style torque wrench is very low cost, its better than nothing.

Example:

Tooluxe 03703L 3/8" and ½" Dual Drive Beam Style Torque Wrench, Hardened Steel | 0-150 Ft. Lbs. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019VMI0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.qFOAb5TD8J52

Oh damn, I'd honestly shy away from using loctite on mounts. Look into a torque wrench and once you're at spec you won't need loctite. I've got this one and have mounted about a dozen scopes with it: http://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Firearms-Accurizing-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0012AXR4S

Thanks, clear lower gets a lot of questions at the range.

Chain breaker is for removing chain pins. When you get a new chain it probably will have more links then you need.

While I have no problem with them making them, I flat out refuse to purchase Shimano chains because there are many times when I need to take a chain off and I can't because I've run out of replacement pins. Sram 9 speed chains have a reusable/rebreakable link. Sram 10/11/12 speed chains have a locked permanently after the first time link. I do not purchase those either. I exclusively use KMC chains because they come with a reusable link for breaking the chain in that location. I also keep 2 of the links in my saddle bag. Ya never know when a link will get buggered 15 miles from the trailhead.

If you have carbon, then get one of these preset torque wrenches: Ritchey 5Nm 6-Bit Torque Key https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SU86GCK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0gHWCbBB8T426 (Park, Ice, Bontrager, etc all make them too). I like the ones where you can replace the bit. Don't use it to loosen the bolts, use a hex/Allen key for that.

DIY hanger tool: https://youtu.be/sWdO4dnu18g

Truing zip ties: https://youtu.be/fQ4g1QNg4dU

Good luck!

It really depends on your needs. I think for most people and bikes, it's totally unnecessary to have torque wrenches. When I bought mine (this one), I was really shocked at how high the torque specs were for cockpit components/seatpost/FD clamp/etc. I found myself going 1/2 to a full turn tighter than I ever would have on my own, and I've never had trouble with parts slipping on me in the past. Just use assembly paste and/or grease in the appropriate places.

That said, I do still use it, including to install chainring bolts on my Quarq, and it gives me some peace of mind.

For pedals, it's definitely not needed. Pedals only need to be installed to 'snug' because pedaling action tends to tighten them up over time. I can't think what else on a bike you'd need that higher torque range for, but maybe that's because I only know road bikes.

Sounds like you need a torque wrench made for small arms.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL0RU/

I like this one, as you end up with more stuff in the 10-150lb range than you do the 25-225 lb range.

Well, I know I'm a bit late to the party, but I always forget my questions when it comes to Wednesday.

Anyway, I've finally managed to buy the sought-after torque wrench!. It's not too fancy, but I won't be using it a lot for now, so it should to the job.

I also bought 4 spark plugs, a feeler gauge and silicon grease. I'll be attempting to replace my own plugs this Christmas. I've got the torque settings from my manual, but I'm not sure whether this wrench can go so low (25 Nm are required). Anyway, my question is, as someone who'll be doing this for the first time, could you give me a any tips?

I dont know. But this...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B000LFTSG6/ref=pd_aw_sbs_263_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=89V5N6R58908M5H0CQVT

... is #1 best seller in the category. Its cheaper and it goes up to 210Nm.

I dont know if thats good or bad because the lower range is also higher.

I really need to buy one too though so id like to see what more experienced people have to say

Just speaking from experience man, was having so many issues with my AK scope until I saw someone on here recommend it, no issues since.

This is the one I picked up https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012AXR4S/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Seemed to work well enough.

Buy a torque driver for that front takedown screw. Without bedding or hardening the wood, 15 in lbs will work wonders. You can use it to safely tighten your scope screws, too (15inlb max, read the rings' manual).

Samething happened with one of my Craftman torque wrenches, actually. Now I check my torque wrenches with this prior to use (and calibrate them when needed). Totally worth the money.

I generally use a really expensive digital one I bought for engine builds but I also use this guy for stuff I'm not super worried about tolerance on. I use it mostly to torque the bolts on my hunting rifles
TEKTON 24320 1/4-Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench (20-200 in.-lb./2.26-22.6 Nm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C5ZL2EG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4YHIyb8JJV191

Why not something like this? It goes on a normal ratchet between the socket and the wrench. Could probably make it work with the right sized spanner as well.

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-ARM602-4-Digital-Adapter-4-147-6/dp/B004VYURT0/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=Ratchet+Torque+Wrench&qid=1566286754&s=gateway&sr=8-13

I've got this multi-tip version of a panel key, which looks like it includes your size of triangle key. It's wicked useful and you can't beat the price.

> https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24320-4-Inch-Torque-20-200-Inch/dp/B00C5ZL2EG

Hey, thanks for all your replies. I don't know if you get Karma or not but I gave some upvotes

The strongest one I have used is the Ingersol, it's actually strong enough to arguably replace a pneumatic.

I have the Milwaukee 2860 because it's strong enough for a lot of work and I already use a handful of Milwaukee tools (1/4" hex impact, 2 drills, right angle drill, 12v bore scope, drill, impact, couple others). For me it was a convenience and price issue. I don't feel the Milwaukee cordless tools are any lower quality than the Makita counterparts, they are cheaper (Milwaukee, Ryobi, and Rigid are all owned by a Chinese company and made in China, Makita is still privately owns and builds all over the world). I like the gun, I use it alot, it will do lugs and stuff, but it's working hard and I usually don't do that with it. I use it out of convenience, but I wouldn't say it's ballsy enough to replace a pneumatic.

If you don't have pneumatic to fall back on when you need to, I'd say the IR is the way to go.

I bought this one: https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24330-8-Inch-Torque-ft--lb/dp/B00FMPKAD0/ref=sr_1_4?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1473166396&sr=1-4&keywords=torque+wrench

But it's a little overpowered for bicycles, and I actually feel like it's not giving me the right torque. But it can give you 50nm or 36 ft-lbs, so it should do the trick for cheap.

A more expensive option is the bicycle specific Park Tool one:

https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Ratcheting-Torque-Wrench/dp/B004KZWL9O/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1473166567&sr=1-1&keywords=park%2Btool%2Btorque%2Bwrench&psc=1

Only the 3/8 Drive one will give you the necessary torque. I ended up ordering this one today, because of my problems with the cheaper one, especially for low-torque applications.

Also, I'm not sure what drive those Bafang sockets are. If they're 1/2 inch, you'll need an adapter to go down to 3/8 for either of those torque wrenches. Something like this set:

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Adapter-Reducer-Vanadium-Conversions/dp/B01G3VKPAE/ref=sr_1_5?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1473169675&sr=1-5&keywords=socket+adapter+set

If you are concerned about getting it to the right specs, this is what I use and it works just fine.

Go on Amazon and get the Wheeler torque wrench.

Wheeler Firearms Accurizing Torque Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012AXR4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BJXJAbTNBDGD1

I would suggest investing in a wheeler FAT wrench so you know you are not over torquing your bolts. I have never broken any torx keys with using loctite.

Edit: Wheeler

If you want something that's actually accurate and not a piece of shit get a CDI Torque Wrench. CDI is Snap On's industrial brand. It's basically the exact same thing that would come off the tool truck but at 1/2 the cost of a Snap On branded one. I have 3 of these and would still buy them all day long. https://www.amazon.com/CDI-2503MFRMH-Micrometer-Adjustable-Torque/dp/B002LA1EDO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506280402&sr=8-1&keywords=cdi+torque+wrench+1%2F2+inch

Those are nice torque wrenches. The split beam ones don't need to be zeroed out after each use so it's my go to for lug nuts usually. I have what is essentially the same wrench, just direct from the manufacturer Snap On uses, Precision. Precision Instruments PREC3FR250F Silver 1/2" Drive Split Beam Torque Wrench with Flex Head https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XMSFIM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_I.-PDb81XF0CP

I use TEKTON torque wrenches for everything, and have had 0 problems they work very well and are extremely cheap for the quality. You can get them on amazon here's the 3/8's one I use http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24330-8-Inch-Torque-Wrench/dp/B00FMPKAD0/ref=sr_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1457543167&sr=1-2&keywords=torque+wrench

Extra battery costs $80? No thanks. I'll let it sit on the charger for an hour.

http://www.amazon.com/Ingersoll-W7150-K1-High-Torque-Impactool-Charger/dp/B007LHJI4E/ref=pd_cp_hi_1

(A spare battery is actually $100 o_o I think I'd probably get a generic battery and replace it sooner.)

I used a torque wrench for the barrel nut on my AR15.

Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C5ZL0RU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1451251714&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=torque+wrench&dpPl=1&dpID=31migy44iyL&ref=plSrch

That is a torque wrench and what I think of when I hear that term, which is why I was confused about this product being called a torque wrench.

I have one of these for basic gunsmithing and scope mounting: http://www.amazon.ca/Wheeler-Firearms-Accurizing-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0012AXR4S
Torque can be set up to 65in/lbs, accepts standard 1/4 bits and has an adapter for 1/4" sockets. No more stripped holes for me.

Something like this is still a hand tool, but with no actual numbers in the manual you have to find out all needed torques by yourself.

InSinkErator tool can be found in most hardware stores for around $5:

http://www.amazon.com/InSinkErator-WRN-00-JamBuster-Wrenchette/dp/B000BQ7WE0

I don't know... taping the garbage disposal "key" to the side of it has really come in handy.

(if you don't know what I mean: see this)

You need in-lbs.

https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Firearms-Accurizing-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0012AXR4S

Good reviews on this one for $50.

Bruh, for $40-50, why don't you just buy a new one.

Do you have an Inch/lb wrench?

Wheeler sells a "Fat Wrench" amazing... A MUST HAVE

http://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Firearms-Accurizing-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0012AXR4S

The right tool for the job.

Not really

google the torque specs. Buy a torque driver. You will use it all the time.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Accurizing-Measurement-Gunsmithing-Maintenance/dp/B0012AXR4S/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=torque+driver&qid=1555630412&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Here is the cheaper analog version
https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Firearms-Accurizing-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0012AXR4S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520352426&sr=8-1&keywords=fat+wrench

Here is the digital version that I bought.
https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-710909-Digital-Firearms-Accurizing/dp/B01B3NW5TG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1520352426&sr=8-2&keywords=fat+wrench

This is the one i bought:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019VMI0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HkDMAb19JSFD3

And here’s a similar one from Autozone:

https://m.autozone.com/wrenches-pliers-and-cutters/torque-socket-wrench/duralast-1-2-in-drive-torque-wrench/914019_0_0?location=

See what kind of torque wrench he has, and if he doesnt, get him a CDI clicker $130 or Snapon electronic torque wrench $600+ .

I think the PI wrench or the CDI wrench is about 150 (1/2 inch drive).

http://www.amazon.com/CDI-Torque-2503MFRMH-Micrometer-Adjustable/dp/B002LA1EDO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450228327&sr=8-1&keywords=CDI+1%2F2+torque

https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Instruments-PREC3FR250F-Silver-Torque/dp/B002XMSFIM

I think I’m leaning towards this one, but I’ve never owned a split beam torque wrench. Any downsides other than clockwise only?

torque wrench

I use the AC-Delco electronic ones. They come with calibration results that show they are very accurate at their minimum reading.

As others have said, gauges typically aren't accurate at low/high readings.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004VYURT0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

TEKTON 24335 1/2-Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench (10-150 ft.-lb./13.6-203.5 Nm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C5ZL0RU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pz2izbFQR4974

You need to buy a torque wrench.

I own this one.

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-Torque-10-150-Lb-13-6-203-5-24335/dp/B00C5ZL0RU

• This
  
  
• This
  
  
• This x2
  
  
• This

Then why not do that?

Here you go $38

Heres a fairly general 1/2" torque wrench by TEKTON. Its $57 (plus tax), does 25-250 ft lbs, not digital however, but is a very reliable brand for the price.

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24340-2-Inch-ft-lb-33-9-338-9/dp/B00C5ZL1NS/ref=pd_cp_469_4?pd_rd_w=1pkqa&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=PJNVXXD0RXZHB8H433KD&pd_rd_r=55f6a626-87d2-4d13-9f8a-3dfe8736a9da&pd_rd_wg=TF8s9&pd_rd_i=B00C5ZL1NS&psc=1&refRID=PJNVXXD0RXZHB8H433KD

If you wanted to venture to Snap-on territory, this is one made by their supplier for $158

https://www.amazon.com/Industrial-CDI-2503MFRPH-Adjustable-Micrometer/dp/B000KL4H80/ref=sr_1_5?crid=35YOXOJXYGC4J&keywords=cdi+torque+wrench&qid=1564268944&s=hi&sprefix=cdi%2Ctools%2C181&sr=1-5

I have this torque wrench:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL2EG

What do I need so I can put hex bits and such on there?