(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best diagnostic, test & measurement tools

First, some background: The percentage display on the dashboard is only loosely related to the actual state of charge of the battery, because the battery management system reserves a buffer at both the bottom and top end of the charge range to protect the longevity of the battery. When you charge up to 100%, there's 38-39 kWh in the battery rather than 40 kWh. The highest I've gotten the true SoC (state of charge) of the battery to when it showed 100% on the dashboard is 98.2%, but 95-97% has been more common. Similarly, when it says 4% on the dashboard, there's a good bit more than 4% of actual charge still in the battery. It's like how you can drive many miles after the meter reads "E" (empty) in a gas car. After 0% it'll show "--%" if it's like previous year Leafs while driving quite a few more miles, then you'll get a turtle icon and reduced power for a final mile or two to safely pull over. At that point, the car will stop moving, but there's actually some kWh of power still in the pack, because running a lithium ion battery down to real 0% permanently damages it and the car won't let you do that.

THAT SAID, I am slightly concerned about what you've said. I did a 60 mile highway drive yesterday with the A/C on full blast in 90 degree weather and >70 MPH most of the way, and still averaged 4 miles per kWh. I don't think I've ever gotten only 3.2 miles per kWh in the new Leaf. I've had many trips with more than 5 miles per kWh on 35-45 MPH roads. I am easily getting the 150 miles per charge, so if you're only getting 80-120, that sounds wrong.

This sounds silly, but what are your tire pressures at? The difference between underinflated and overinflated tires can easily be 10% or more on your miles/kWh efficiency. I have mine at 42 PSI right now. When a new car shows up at a dealership, one of the things they do to prep it for sale is to let air out of the tires, because they're shipped overinflated. If they let out too much, you'll want to pump them back up above 40 PSI (well above the 36 PSI the sticker says to inflate them to, I know) and go on another long drive to see if that improves your efficiency.

If that doesn't work, the next thing I'd do is get on Amazon and order this OBDII scanner and download the Leaf Spy Pro app on your phone. That will let you see the real State of Charge in kWh for your car whenever you want, which will help you figure out if there's a real issue here.

• Typical Leaf Spy Pro screenshot near 100% charge
  
• New battery stats
  
• 4 mi/kWh was my average over the first 220 miles I put on the car, which gives you 150+ miles range as advertised
  
• High efficiency on local trips shouldn't be too rare
  

I bought a used Leaf 2 years ago from a private seller. Interestingly enough used prices for Leafs are up since then. After driving the car for 2 years the car is worth the same or more than when I bought it.

Advice for buying now:

1. Buy an ODB adapter and the LeafSpy app https://www.amazon.ca/LELink-Bluetooth-Energy-OBD-II-Diagnostic/dp/B00QJRYMFC or similar
   
2. Test the vehicle before buying it and check the Battery State of Health (SoH) and Hx values in LeafSpy. Higher is better. Motorize will give you LeafSpy output for their Leafs but Campus Nissan will not. Their official Nissan battery report is useless.
   
3. If you can find a Leaf that came from Washington / Seattle that's generally better than California because the heat is what causes battery degradation so those from the pacific northwest are usually in better shape.
   
4. In Victoria Motorize are the better dealer but prices tend to be a bit higher than campus nissan but they are more honest. Cross shop both of them. If you have the time you can likely find even slightly better deals in Vancouver.
   
   Enjoy! I'm liking mine after 2 years. Battery not as good as a Tesla for sure for less than a quarter of the price I'm ok with that.

Equipment

• Nexus 7 2013 w/ Timur's kernel (still in closed beta - open for donors)
  
• Custom 3d printed housing
  
• Alpine KTP-445U 4-channel Power Pack Amplifier
  
• USB OTG Cable - Modified to fit
  
• DC-DC Converter
  
• Behringer UCA202 USB DAC
  
• Bluetooth OBD2 Adapter - For getting real-time data into the Torque app
  
• Add-a-fuse
  
• Ground loop isolator ** Item still needs to be tested. This was purchased to hopefully eliminate a popping noise i get when first powering on the system
  
  Must Have Apps
  
  
• GMD Gesture Control - Since i have no physical volume control buttons anymore GMD gesture control allows me to setup custom gestures like a 2-finger swipe to access volume control.
  
  Very excited to be ~95% complete with the install. A couple things left:
  
  
• pull out the double-din housing i made and put the top on it which also includes a fan
  
• address a 'popping' sound when turning on the system. possibly caused by the amp turning on before everything else? still seeking a solution here
  
  More than happy to try to answer questions for anyone else looking to do the same thing. Very happy with the outcome thus far.

What's your budget?

Boston Sports

• We have a Tom Brady FatHead that watches games with us: link Pretty silly. They also have a "game day" one where he's wearing a helmet and a Gronk one.
  
  
• Tickets to a game for your family. Minor league games are really fun (Pawsocks!) if you can't afford the major league ones.
  
  
• I assume he already has all the jerseys and hats he could ever want.
  
  Non Boston Sports
  
  
• Google Home or Amazon Echo. They also have lots of smart home things you can add on like power outlets, light bulbs, locks, and thermostats.
  
  
• Kindle or tablet, maybe with a New England case?
  
  
• Automatic amazon if he likes doing stuff with his car.
  
  
• Google Cardboard. This was a huge hit with my dad even though it was something like $10.

Amazon, $15
its down to $10 now

http://www.amazon.com/ELM327-Bluetooth-CAN-BUS-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B0090ZJPMK/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1367946933&sr=8-7&keywords=obd+ii+bluetooth

Mine works great but the quality seems iffy, there are many others on Amazon though that are similar prices. Mine has worked on my WRX, my Wifes Mazda, My friends Jeep and another Friends Ford Explorer. (I have become a go-to for getting CEL codes diagnosed)

then I actually purchased an app $5 called "torque" on the google play market (android). It allows me to read codes, display anything from boost or coolant temp to speed and RPM, and even has built in 0-60 tests and can use the phones accelerometer. You can also do data logging and record videos with the data embedded in the video. It will even do a map overlay using google maps and GPS data.

09 should work with tech2win.

This is what I bought, might be available on Amazon so you can possibly return it if doesn’t work for you. It says it doesn’t work on Win10 machines or 64bit OS versions but I had no issue, works fine On a i7 laptop runing exactly that, 64bit Win10. I didn’t need to install an old version of windows or anything.

https://www.amazon.com/VXDIAG-Tech2Win-Diagnostic-Programming-System/dp/B074365Q6H

One tip that would have saved me a lot of time is to determine if you EBCM (electronic brake module) is faulty or the same issue I had which was a PCM output is to unplug the EBCM connector and measure the pin for speed reference. You should find the pinout for the connector online. Should be 10V if the ACC power on the car is on. In general check the EBCM plug that you see what you expect to see for power and ground.

If there is no power could be a wiring harness issue or the the PCM is faulty, to determine that you would need to measure the same wire (pinout is online) at the PCM end to see if you have 10V coming out. I don’t know if the speed reference in newer trucks is over CAN or a dedicated link like on mine.

In any case, you will need a tool to reflash a new module if you end up having to swap either a PCM or EBCM, so I guess you might as well buy VXdiag or a similar tool that lets you do SPS programming for the replacement module. GM will charge $40 for the license (AC Delco TDS) for the VIN but VXdiag won’t charge more than for the device, and it is useful, much easier to reprogram new fobs etc and tech2win will work on most GM vehicles up to about 2012 after which GDS is used.

Might be a good idea to check the connector at the ebcm first to make sure you are getting the right reading on the speed reference wire. Mine showed 1.5VDC where it should have been close to 10VDC. My EBCM was probably fine but I replaced it since I thought it was faulty, later replaced the PCM. EBCM did communicate with the Tech2 so I guess I should have know the module is fine, replaced it anyway as C0235 and C0256 could not be reset, but those were caused by a faulty PCM communication.

leaf spy recommended one specific scanner, the LELink bluetooth model.

I would go with that specific model.

it is awesome!

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QJRYMFC

I've owned two wifi models, a chinese one and a good plx devices kiwi and the first was maddening and rarely worked correctly, and the second sometimes required extra resetting.

now that ios supports bluetooth, its all easy peasy.

You need an iphone that supports bluetooth 4.0.

anyway, leaf spy connects perfectly and without intervention or configuration in a second or two and its a whole different (good) experience.

> You can get one from Amazon for about $20.

Or you can spend just a little bit more and get the Raytek Mini-Temp 6. It is excellent, measures accurately to a tenth of the degree and is made of sturdy materials and will be fun to have for measuring the temperature of everything all the time, in addition to being ideal for someone looking for as close to perfection as possible with every cup.

My friends and I take this unit camping and fishing, you can use it take your temperature when you are sick (say "ahh" and take a reading of the back of your throat), you can use it on your car before and while performing maintenance, on your daughter's car in the middle of the night to see whether she may have snuck out, etc.

Any old $20 POS model might work great for a year, maybe even two or three, but just remember: you only buy the best once. So don't do it for me–do it for your coffee's sake and your friend's sake. And your daughter's sake.

http://www.amazon.com/Raytek-MT6-Non-contact-MiniTemp-Thermometer/dp/B000O80B5M

From Imgur -

Haters gonna hate.
Seriously this translates to any low-end model car. See what you can do. Just put your mind to it.
Wiring harness disaster.
This was the initial wiring harness done by mysterious previous owner. Electrical tape and twisting is effective, however, very sloppy.
Wiring harness - fixed.
Solder and heatshrink wires into a nice in-line harness. Used conduit and electrical tape to secure the lines into an OEM-like headunit harness.
If it sits, it fits.
Checking whilst removed that the new mount for my headunit is working properly.
Cupholder add-on.
Stock DX doesn't come with a retractable cupholder. I picked up one of these universal dual cup holders at Advance Auto Parts. It's designed to wedge between a seat and a center console. I used a hack saw to trim it down, then used Plumers Goop to fasten it to the trim piece used for the cupholder add-on.
Sitting nice.
It looks like it all came together ok, not - it's time to check and see how it's working.
Sexy.
Sits fine, have to get a USB bluetooth adapter for audio, however it functions just fine like so.
Torque for Android.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque is the software. http://www.amazon.com/Newest-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner-Adapter/dp/B009F4JHHO/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1395625503&sr=1-2&keywords=Bluetooth+ODBII For the hardware.

Hope you enjoyed this! I did this today since I was a bit bored and wanted the car to function with my phone better. Happy modding!

Impedance should be 4ohms for all auto speakers, not counting subs. RMS isn't really going to matter either, the Pioneer stereo only puts out 16W per channel and most speakers will handle that easily with the right EQ settings.

Honestly though, I would look for something different. The speakers that it comes with are fine and you'd have to spend quite a lot for a small improvement. If he doesn't have a sub Bazooka makes subs that aren't to expensive and would at least be noticeable.

If he doesn't have one of these I highly recommend one. Paired with the Torque app they are awesome.

http://www.amazon.com/Raytek-MT6-Non-contact-MiniTemp-Thermometer/dp/B000O80B5M

No joke. I use it all the time when cooking. It stays in my kitchen. It really opens up your eyes on how uneven the temperature of your cooking surfaces are. SURFACE TEMP ONLY! to temp meat like chicken, use something like this: http://www.amazon.com/CDN-DTQ450X-ProAccurate-Quick-Read-Thermometer/dp/B0021AEAG2

Also: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_sc_0_11?url=search-alias%3Dgarden&field-keywords=chainmail%20scrubber I don't know which one I have, I think the knappmade one, but these are also awesome. Work great for cleaning stainless steel pots and pans also.

Yeah, it is fairly nice to have, it gives you all of the same information that the tool that the dealer has for your car. Here is the one I have

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N18TOFB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and you will need to go to FORSCAN.org to obtain the free software for it. Super easy and the software essentially walks you through itself. You should not need an extended license for what you are doing.

Havent looked into the bluedriver as mine has worked just fine for my needs. A quick glance at the page, and I'd guess you're paying extra for their app and the service "Your in-app Repair Reports are created by certified professional mechanics".

If I was going to get any of the more expensive options, I'd probably look at Automatic
I've seen someone pull a report of their fuel efficiency at different speeds with a comparison to other people with the same car. Without much more knowledge of it than that, it seems that Automatic has some nice software behind theirs that is only compatible with their dongle.
Though I'm sure they technically could make it compatible with mine as well....

As far as nice to knows, you could pull that same fuel efficiency:speed comparison, but it'd be up to you to plot it out on excel. You could watch your fuel level and have your phone give you extra notifications if you are forgetful like me.

Carista app allows you to make a couple of minor changes to how your car works, most of which can be adjusted through your display, but a couple of extras. Just have to look in their app, but they charge like $10 for a week of use of their app. Though the idea is you set your changes, maybe tweek over the week, then you're done.

I dont usually use mine except for scanning for codes, but there are plenty of data points to look through.

I have one. They are pretty neat and handy. I use the Torque app on my Android phone with it. Some really suck, but I bought one that was highly recommended and I've never had a problem. The real time information and custom gauges are pretty sweet too.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004B0C1NE/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00

I bought one of these about 5 years ago and LOVE it.
It comes with free software to load on a laptop.
I've used it for everything from just clearing the CEL for friends to monitoring all data while driving (very cool dashboards with this software).
https://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-425801-OBDLink-USB-Professional/dp/B005ZWM0R4

Go out and get an OBD-II scanner. Trust me, it's a solid investment that won't set you back much at all. If anything, it's probably the best "bang for your buck" accessory you can get for your XJ. It'll let you read CEL codes, reset them, and you can use the Torque app (which is pretty cool to have for the info).

I bought this one about 3yrs ago, it set me back a whopping $15.

iDiagnose® ELM327 V1.5 Bluetooth OBD2 OBD-II CAN-BUS Auto Diagnostic Scanner Tool Wireless OBD2 Scan Tool CAR Code Reader - ANDROID Compatible

I didn't see any replies regarding this on a quick scan. Do yourself a big favor and get this - https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Automotive-Diagnostic-Compliant-Vehicles/dp/B01I8UJ0V8/ref=sr_1_13?crid=2QWSS54C275TZ&keywords=check+engine+code+reader&qid=1559137785&s=gateway&sprefix=check+engine+%2Caps%2C154&sr=8-13

Or something like it. This will tell you exactly what's wrong with a quick google search. Sometimes it's just "the gas cap is old and loose." As someone who kept a 97 tercel alive way longer than it should have I really feel your post. Good luck friend!!

> Any old $20 POS model might work great for a year, maybe even two or three, but just remember: you only buy the best once. So don't do it for me–do it for your coffee's sake and your friend's sake. And your daughter's sake.
> http://www.amazon.com/Raytek-MT6-Non-contact-MiniTemp-Thermometer/dp/B000O80B5M

That's just crazy talk. Any old $50 POS might work for a while, but just remember you only buy the best once. So why not go with this thermal thermometer from CEM? It's got 3 automatic image adjustment histograms and video capacity. For your coffee's sake, your friend's sake and of course your daughter: http://www.amazon.com/Infrared-Building-Diagnostics-thermometer-infrared/dp/B00G616WQS. Buy it now for $11,321.00 + $40.80 shipping. Full disclaimer: I don't work for CEM. I'm just a concerned coffee drinker.

To add on to this, a cheap and good investment is a basic OBD II reader (eg. https://www.amazon.com/Reader-Diagnostic-Check-Engine-Light/dp/B004IV58AY). They are especially useful when the catchall "check engine" light comes on. There should be a port underneath your steering wheel somewhere (it's often easier to see if you sit on the ground with the door open). Plug the reader in, turn the car on, and it will give you the error codes that you can google along with your Make/Model to figure out what's wrong.

If it's something simple then you can easily fix it and even if you take it to a mechanic, you can lead in with "this is broken" and catch them if they try to charge you for hundreds in diagnostics and unnecessary parts.

Also I don't know what area you are in but frequently Auto parts shops such as Auto Zone or Advanced Auto Parts can be a wealth of knowledge; they'll make sure parts you're buying are a match for your car and sometimes will even loan you obscure tools you may need to complete a job.

With using advanced technology, the Launch CRP123’s https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BGH0EAC diagnostic function is extremely powerful, which provides testing for four modern systems (ENG \ABS\SRS\ AT) and Obd2 / OBD/EOBD standard protocol. As a consumer-centric and quality-centric OBD2 Scanner, rest assured it is well-designed, well-made and well-treated. The Complete OBDII functionality, extensive vehicle coverage and Multilanguage use make life easier with intelligence and convenience.

Not sure if it's the same thing, but this is what we use around the farm. It's pretty good at telling when a battery is ready to go on the deads pallet.

https://www.amazon.ca/Schumacher-BT-100-Battery-Load-Tester/dp/B000AMBOI0

Wow, awesome response. Thanks for going into detail! I was just watching some videos...doesn't seem like it's that bad at all. I'll have to take a shot.

Next question. What do you guys do for GPS trackers? I would rather have more data and don't want to use Lojack. I thought about building some arduino system with its own GPS and 3G radio/sim.

I looked at this too since it ties directly into the OBD and would maybe be less visible/have greater range with wired power. I bought an Automatic along with an OBD splitter (for a future OBD device running in slave mode), which I don't expect will tell me much but is more for fun data.

I'm using this IFTTT recipe( requires Dash app on phone and Google account (for Drive)) and this bluetooth ODB2 adapter to automatically get pretty spreadsheets on my Google Drive showing everything I could ever care about my car trips. Distance, gas consumption (actual and average), average speed, weather, start and end points... It's great.

I keep my OBD2 adapter connected to the car at all times and Dash auto-starts when it detects the OBD2 device over bluetooth.

I'm not a mechanic, but:

If the CEL is on it has codes.
If the CEL is off it doesn't have codes, either because it is fine, or because the owner cleared them with a reader.

Get in the car and turn the key but don't start it, see if the CEL lights up, if it doesn't, they likely pulled the bulb because afaik, it should always light up when the key is in the on position but the car isn't started.

As for stores, you need to specify a location.
I personally use this one along with Torque and [DASH]
(https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.dashlabs.dash.android&hl=en)

In the USA I believe Autozone does free scans, but they sell readers as well.

Every internal measure might be skewed, because its internally measuring itself, not through an external, independent view.

If you really want to go and compare all your chargers and cables and external batteries and stuff i can only say go and get something like this: http://www.amazon.com/AboveTEK%C2%AE-USB-Voltage-Current-Multimeter/dp/B00ICR1UB6/ref=pd_cp_pc_1/180-0629761-4506706

I keep bringing a thing like that to ingress gatherings, and its great. Also helps in balancing your raspberry pi power levels if it runs unstable, if you ever get into that area.

I'm from Romania so I've got it from a local store. The price is similar on Amazon : https://www.amazon.com/Version-Bluetooth-Multi-Language-12Kinds-Android/dp/B00N2K6M2A

For Linux a very good starting point is obdsim project.

Good luck with you project and keep us posted.

I bought this one and have been very happy. You will need a laptop to use it. It will do all the basic error code checks, but also has the ability to log sensor data, which is nice when you're trying troubleshoot.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005ZWM0R4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Fq5GAbV5ZBNZV

Here's the best one . There are others which work that are cheap but these are the best

Heads up people! The number reported by this app is after the charging circuit etc has taken its bit to keep on going. So if your 1A charger is getting reported as 600mA don't fret about it.

If you want to check the raw amp coming out of the charger, get a usb voltmeter, like http://www.amazon.com/AboveTEK%C2%AE-USB-Voltage-Current-Multimeter/dp/B00ICR1UB6

It will tell you the output closer to the source.

Also, any smart device is free to regulate how much amp it wants to draw at any moment.

I've ordered these cables from Amazon and they work really well. I've had 1 since July that I keep in my bag along with a portable battery that I use when i'm out on a job so I really only use it once every 2-4 weeks maybe. But it still connects very solidly. I've gone through a good amount of cheaper ones i've tried ordering online like monoprice.

I also ordered this usb multimeter to see which cables I have that were charging really slowly. The portapow cables i ordered from amazon measure at 0.9A (same with my OEM cables) while some other shitty cables I have that are like 6-10ft long measure at 0.09A and as the number suggests, take a long fucking time to charge my phone. I'm definitely not an expert at this kind of stuff, but hope this helps

So I've been playing a lot with my 2010 and 2016 Fords, especially involving the camera.

Two different things can be checked, unfortunately both requiring a little computer kmow-how and some parts off Amazon.

1. APIM Settings. Using a Modified ELM327 adapter and free software called ForScan, you can access the module configuration and ensure Reverse Camera is enabled. You need to register on their forum to get an unlock code for the software, so sign up right away if you order the adapter. There's other settings you can change as well, such as DRLs.
   
   
2. Scan the CAN-BUS. This one's a bit more complex. Using a Canbus shield attached to an Arduino Uno, you can connect it to the MS-CAN on your truck through the obdii port. A relatively simple bit of code can be used to determine if the radio is getting proper signals telling it what gear you're in, or force it to think you're in reverse. Obviously if you want to go this route, I'll help you through getting it set up. Very minor soldering is required to put the pins on the canbus shield. No vehicle wiring is modified.
   
   Just keeping a quick note, if yours is the same as my 2010, the gear messages should be ID 3B0, with Reverse having a data of 0x01.
   
   
   If you go with an aftermarket camera, it's entirely possible to make it display on the navigation screen -- any standard composite camera will work.

I have a standard usb OBD cable but not specialized for tuning. It comes with some gimped software, but has worked with better software previously. If you could use it, you'd be welcome to borrow it.

i just bought this one on amazon to get a taste. BAFX Products - WiFi OBD2 / OBDII... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078K54MT5

pretty amazing for less than $20

This is the one I have. Works well and I've changed a couple things with it so far.

I personally trust a fully wired one over bluetooth, just to be safe.

I have a nice standalone unit but I’m actually looking at this Bluetooth one for my iPhone. They make an Android version also. I’m still researching it because I want to make sure I can erase a code, but I like the idea that the software is always updated.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073XKQQQW/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_c_kyyYAb8W9GA8Z

So lucky! If your check engine light does come on you should get one of these! http://www.amazon.com/ELM327-Bluetooth-CAN-BUS-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B0090ZJPMK
So handy and can save you tons of money!

while the deal per se is good, I'd advise to purchase a device like this one instead

http://www.amazon.com/iDiagnose%C2%AE-Smallest-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Wireless/dp/B00A1O72TW/

and install on your phone one of the apps that support them... This one comes to mind

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque&hl=en

I have owned 3 2.2s. They tend to run cold because they don't produce a ton of heat like larger displacement engines. If it's cold out it runs cold. If it is hot out and the mechanical fan is stuck on it runs normal temps. Also the dash gauge is not as accurate as the ECU temp readouts.

My guess is that you live in a cold environment and your mechanical thermostat is broken or old enough that it doesn't work right.

I currently have a built 2.2 turbo. When it is cold out, the gauge will read 150-185 when it is 30 or lower to 60 degrees. That is cruising on the highway at 50-70. Now I also use HPtuners to tune. I monitor my temps. Typically the loop from the heater core to the block will be within 180 to 195 where it is supposed to be.

My recommendations.

1. Buy the torque application for your phone. (7 dollars?) Then buy the 10 dollar amazon bluetooth obd2 port adapter. Monitor the temps the ecu can see. If the temperatures are from 180F to 199F your engine is running within range
   [obd2 to bluetooth adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N2K6M2A/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687642&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0051CAE1C&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0T816CFEDTS905VMXVPW) - I own this one. It works.
   
   
2. Consider swapping the mechanical fan out for an electrical fan and temperature sensor relay. I have done this to every s10 I have owned. You gain 5-10hp (no joke). Better gas mileage and you can ensure your engine is running at the correct temps.
   
   
3. Temporary fix for winter. Take a cardboard box. Measure half the radiator size. Cut the cardboard box to half the radiator size. Then block off half the radiator. This will drastically help your temps. If you have a a/c, put the cutout cardboard in front of the ac condenser.
   
   GLHF

I bought this reader in 2013. It lists "Canada - All Vehicles 1998 & Newer" as compatible. It also says "For Android & Windows ONLY!"

On my phone I use the paid version of the Torque app. Try the linked (free) version first.

Works great for my 2010 Fusion here in the US.

Edit: Looks like they have an iOS reader now as well. No idea what app to use though.

BAFX's Country Compliance List

If you are on Android - test out the Torque App on Google Play before you buy Torque Pro just to make sure your bluetooth transmitter is compatible and you like the interface and all of that. When I was looking into a year or two ago, Torque was like THE highest rated and widely used app amongst performance car enthusiasts.

This is the OBD2 Bluetooth Adapter I bought a while ago and it works great with Torque - but there are dozens and dozens of choices for adapters.

$45 from amazon. This one can be used on many cars and trucks too. It's a nice quick little diag tool that can save you tons of money in the long run. I'd charge you $65 for a diagnostic (Labor)
http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MV4560-Radiator-Cooling-Pressure/dp/B003V9L05G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1368137222&sr=8-1&keywords=radiator+pressure+tester

I guess I'm not looking at the right thing on Amazon. They don't say anything about iphone or android.
For example this one says you don't need a cell phone or laptop. Is this the right tool or am I off the mark? Thanks for your help, by the way.

Yeah it's a coolant leak allright then.

Techniques for coolant leaks:
Pressurize the system, listen and look. Maybe not this one, but you get the idea:
https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MV4560-Radiator-Cooling-Pressure/dp/B003V9L05G/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1504476535&sr=1-2&keywords=coolant+pressure+tester

UV dye. Same, not a recommendation, just a link to the concept.
https://www.amazon.com/FJC-4972-Fluorescent-Leak-Detection/dp/B008QEYTZ4/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1504476572&sr=1-2&keywords=coolant+UV+dye+kit

But with your rate of draining, you should be able to find it just by eyeballing. Bet that engine compartment is cramped. 'Course they make stuff for that too. Mirrors on sticks, borescopes.


Jags love to mark their territory.
Check the radiator, hoses, especially where they connect or have a junction. Check the water pump.

It is 100% possible to use a bluetooth OBD adapter with iOS. I currently use the LELink OBDII with my iPhone 6s Plus. I bought this one for the exact same reason you did: I wanted to be able to have internet and be able to have my car diagnostics. I use it with the OBD Fusion app and works like a charm. The thing works so well that I can have my Apple Watch (the app offers an Apple Watch app so therefore it is meant to be connected to a watch and phone at the same time) and my car's audio system connected all at once. That's three different Bluetooth devices connected at the same time.

Edit: This solution is $55 less expensive than the Automatic device.

You would need the vehicle interface device. I wouldn't begin to know what's a quality interface or what's recommended, but I think I've seen one of these posted on here before.

Then you would need to purchase a subscription with GM TDS to get the software as well. It's about 60 dollars for 3 days. I'm not entirely sure what subscription is the one you need or what software you would need. This is the site, I believe.

Either way, I would not recommend this at all. You could end up irreparably or at least have to take it back to the dealership or even MORE expensive work like reflashing your car's computer or potentially replacing it.

> Do you think the one with 48000 miles has DC fast charge?

There is no way to speculate about either of them without actually looking at the car. If you can call the dealer and get them to post a picture of the charging port, that's the best way. And whatever you do, make sure to double-check it yourself before signing anything.

I bought this OBD reader, it works with TorquePro and LeafSpy, and is on Amazon Prime, at least in my area. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QJRYMFC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sorry, first is Dash and second is Torque. Torque is by far the de-facto application for interfacing with OBD readers. Let's you create dials however you want and supports themeing to get it looking how you like.

My current reader is just a standard ELM327 reader http://www.amazon.com/Version-Bluetooth-Multi-Language-12Kinds-Android/dp/B00N2K6M2A/ That chipset comes in MANY readers so just find something that's available and priced decently and get it.

They go cheaper without the cable.

NOTE: this is Bluetooth. It does not work with Apple Bluetooth because these are pretty much never "Apple approved" BT devices. iPhone/iPod users will need the WiFi readers. The iOS app is Horsepower, not Torque. I'm not sure about HP, but Torque Lite is free and will read codes and display engine data. Torque (paid) is what's $5.

Uhh... ammeter is a bit of a misnomer there. You'd need something like a battery load tester to handle that much current safely!

https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Reader-Diagnostics-Devices/dp/B078K54MT5/ref=sr_1_3?crid=31O5121TTE98A&keywords=ios+obdii+bluetooth&qid=1564146769&s=gateway&sprefix=ios+OBII%2Caps%2C150&sr=8-3


I have that one but for Android and its been able to pull codes off any car I plugged it into. You will have to use an app on your phone as well to have an interface with it. I recommend Torque Pro.

I found that sometimes the quality of the USB cable have a big impact of the actual power delivered, even though your power supply is capable of outputting more than 1A.

I suggest you get a USB power meter, like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ICR1UB6/ref=pd_aw_sbs_2?pi=SS115&simLd=1

I got one of these and I measure all my USB cables with a 2A power adapter. Almost half deliver less than 1A! Now I know which USB cable can actually deliver 1A or more, I never have anymore problem with my Pi B+.

Id start with something line this starter set, a 3/8 breaker bar, 1/2 breaker bar, a Decent torque wrench, a plier set, vice grips, channel locks, adjustable wrench, screw driver set, a multimeter, decent scan tool, a jack, a funnell some drain pans from walmart, pb blaster, jack stands and make some wheel chocks. I'm sure I'm missing something pertinent, but remember you can rent some tools at your local parts store for free with a deposit so check to see what they rent before you buy. Also buy the remainder of the tools as you need them, its tough buying a lot of tools at once especially once you develop an affinity for some quality tools. A lot of the youtube guys have videos on what they use they most, but what I've listed should cover most maintenance tasks for your car.

Funny thing is it's usually not the engine. Most of the time I've seen it come on, it's an exhaust problem. It can also be something like a cylinder misfire in the engine but you'd probably notice that before the light came on because it would be running really rough.

Anyway, you can just buy one of these and read if your OBD is throwing any codes. I don't know if this specific one is any good... just the first one that popped on Google. Or you can take it to Autozone and they'll check it for free.

http://www.amazon.com/OBD2-Reader-Diagnostic-OBD-MT-50/dp/B004IV58AY

Looks like this seems to be pretty much what I'm looking for:
http://www.amazon.com/Launch-Tech-301050116-Transmission-Scanner/dp/B00BGH0EAC

Anyone got experience with it?

My suggestion: I have a Bluetooth obd2 reader in my car. There pretty cheap and you can pull check engine light codes.

Something like this iSaddle Super Mini Bluetooth OBD2 OBDII Scan Tool Check Engine Ligh... http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLZCVGU/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_XH9xub06NA4KW

Might be the onboard computer or other electronics then if you think the Fuel Pump is fine. There are electronics in the Relay, though, and it could just be an error with the starting sequence. Do you have one of these by any chance? Might narrow down the issue, might do nothing, might outright tell you what's wrong. Also just good to have on hand, that way if you ever go to a mechanic you can inform him ahead of time that you did an OBDII reading, and tell him the diagnostics it gave. Much less likely to get gouged by expensive tests like engine compression if you come armed.

So, I have long tube headers, high-flow cats, catback, and cutouts right after the cats on my '14 Charger RT. And I have a diablosport T1000 tuner. I got an email tune from a reputable tuner (Johan at diablosport) around January to bypass the downstream sensors codes so I could pass emissions. Recently, I started getting a check engine light for these codes (P0430 and P0420, catalyst system efficiency below threshold). After going back and forth with Johan about it, he verified that these codes are set to not throw a light with my tune. He said they would show up if scanned, but they shouldn't throw the light. So, I'm at a loss. Nothing about my car has changed since I got the tune and did my emissions, and it ran fine with no CEL for months. Johan recommended a more advanced code reader to see if there are any transmission codes as diablos don't read those. Does anyone have any ideas or recommendations?

EDIT: Does it make sense to get something like this?

I have a Galaxy Note II. I bought one of the cheap ELM327 Bluetooth scan tools. Example. For software I've used both Torque and Dash and they both work great.

Fellow iOS owner here. Get this Bluetooth low energy adapter. Works great for LeafSpy. Waaaay faster than wifi, and no need to change your wifi settings every time you want a peek.

LELink Bluetooth Low Energy BLE OBD-II OBD2 Car Diagnostic Tool For iPhone/iPod/iPad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QJRYMFC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_74E-wb57TB3PE

I bought this scanner for less than 20 bucks and it works great with forscan

This is the one I bought. Works great. Veepeak

I use the following with Torque Pro (android) via bluetooth. Works great.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KLZCVGU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Great read, heres a $5 cheaper version on Prime of the bluetooth connector

http://amzn.com/B0090ZJPMK

First, the electrical hum you mention is just electrical noise that often comes from cheap phone chargers and aux cords and in no way related to this or any other problem.

By external temperature gauge do you mean the ambient temperature sensor and display? That just tells you the temp outside but if heat is building under the hood while not moving it may show a warmer temperature. Other than that this tells you nothing about what is happening inside the engine.

Have you checked the coolant level? Only open the cap when the car is completely cool but you can usually check by looking at the reservoir and don't need to remove the cap.

A shop or someone with a scan tool can read the coolant temperature the ECU is seeing. Generally, if the overheat light comes on the car is overheating and you may be doing significant damage by continuing to allow this to occur.

My primary suspect based on your description is the cooling fan behind the radiator isn't running since you only mention a problem when not moving. Strangely, the fan normally runs at higher speed and on a different circuit when the A/C is on but yours may be completely failed. The other possibility is a failing water pump that isn't moving enough coolant at idle.

Please don't continue to drive like this, it will only end badly.

If you want the cheapest way to determine engine temp without paying someone else you could by an OBD2 reader that connects to a smartphone like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073XKQQQW/ref=psdc_15707381_t2_B07JFRFJG6

You install an app on your phone and can make it display live temperature data on your screen while driving; just make sure your phone is compatible or find one like this that is.

Good idea. A friend also suggested a cooling system pressure tester. Example: https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MV4560-Radiator-Cooling-Pressure/dp/B003V9L05G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486473117&sr=8-1&keywords=cooling+system+pressure+tester

Bring a Bluetooth OBD port with you and check the car that way, you’ll be sure it’s not been throwing CELs and such.


Veepeak OBDCheck BLE OBD2 Bluetooth Scanner Auto OBD II Diagnostic Scan Tool for iOS & Android, Bluetooth 4.0 Car Check Engine Light Code Reader Supports Torque, OBD Fusion app https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073XKQQQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_93YZDbNPB3F60

How much is too much?

I use this one at home and side jobs.

My job provides manufacturer specific diagnostic software.


https://www.amazon.com/Launch-CRP123-Scanner-Transmission-Diagnostic/dp/B00BGH0EAC

This tells me everything I basically need to know. And it's updates are free online. You just need to log into their website and learn to update the reader manually. Not difficult to go at all though.

I've been a huge fan of this automatic mileage tracker that plugs into your car: https://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Connected-Diagnostics-Detection-Compatible/dp/B00UZ0OHIQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1510018485&tag=rigubl0f-20&sr=8-4

You can deduct the cost of it on your taxes since you're solely using it for work.

I've used a few OBD-II interfaces, one serial, two USB, and my current fav is bluetooth. I got it off Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A1O72TW/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They all create serial devices in Windows and Linux and the bluetooth one is physically isolated from your computer so you can't do anything to power surge the car computer.

If you want to use it with an iPhone, you need WiFi or Bluetooth LE. A "regular" Bluetooth one won't work.

I bought one of these https://www.amazon.com/LELink-Bluetooth-Energy-OBD-II-Diagnostic/dp/B00QJRYMFC for $35 and a generic WiFi one for about $15. There is a little more support for the WiFi one in more apps, but the Bluetooth one will be a little simpler because you don't have to switch wifi networks.

You may want to get an extension cable, they are tiny so easy to leave connected all the time but really hard to take in and out. If you got some sort of pigtail cable it will probably be easier to disconnect.

I bought this one for 14.99. It works just fine, scans codes and can clear them.. all I need.

I don't like to run my AC just the heater, the first thing to prob go will either be a locking mechanism in one of the doors or god forbid your head gasket.

Don't add any weird shit to your coolant, pop the hood every other week and have a look around for any deposits on the block of coolant or anything.

I would also recommend getting one of these bluetooth OBD scanners and use the Dashcommand app with it. So should a light come on your dash you can diagnose it quickly.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0090ZJPMK/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_PZ-mub1NYDN31
These are not iPhone compatible but are on androids. If an ABS issue arises it will have to go to a shop that has the right stuff to diagnose it, not many obd scanners can touch a Rovers ABS computer.

Premium ga$ only! Have fun!

Thanks for demystifying that for me. Glad to hear I don’t have to shell out $40 for what I need. Unfortunately, all the cheapest devices are Android or WiFi only. Thinking of going with this one:

Veepeak OBDCheck BLE Bluetooth 4.0 OBD2 Scanner Adapter for iOS & Android, Car Check Engine Light Diagnostic Trouble Code Reader Supports Year 1996 and Newer Vehicles in the US https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073XKQQQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zn4dAbECCHCVE

That's $80. You could buy 8 of the cheap bluetooth ones for that price.

http://www.amazon.com/Version-Bluetooth-Multi-Language-12Kinds-Android/dp/B00N2K6M2A/ref=sr_1_3

I've bought 4 of them so far (for me, brothers and dad) and they're all going 2 years strong.

Too funny you just posted this question. I researched this exact question today and bought an OBD2 about the time you were posting this. This reddit thread convinced me to go with the BAFX product for $27 for a quality wifi scanner. The LeLink\^2 one was my second choice based off of Leaf drivers' recommendations but the selling point there was leaving it plugged in, which I don't plan to do. I just want to reversibly disable the VSP sounds.

There are test kits that screw into the filler cap opening and pressurize the system. That's probably your best bet.

Mityvac MV4560 Radiator/Cooling System and Pressure Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003V9L05G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_E3ZDzb1VSDBWC

If that doesnt work, you can add UV dye to your coolant and search with a black light. I've seen people crack open a yellow highlighter on the cheap. Just be sure to do a coolant flush afterwards.

> OBD2 reader

The one my friend has, and the one I'm going to ask him to read my car with tonight is this: http://www.amazon.com/Reader-Diagnostic-Check-Engine-Light/dp/B004IV58AY

If it works out, I'm ordering one immediately.

I'd recommend OBD Auto Doctor (onboard diagnostic) for $10. Then get a cheap Bluetooth OBD adapter from Amazon. The one linked below iDiagnose ELM327 is $15.

http://www.windowsphone.com/en-us/store/app/obd-auto-doctor/68fcb70d-c259-4e1d-8158-27735854493c

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A1O72TW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ODBII reader is what it is called. Here is the one I got from Amazon. Literally only tells you the codes not what they mean, but it has a book with the codes listed. But I always Google the code anyway with the car's make and model. You can spend a fortune on theses depending on what kind of things you want it to do. This one will read the codes, tell you pending codes (things that have happened but not enough to trigger a light) and allow you to clear the codes (never do this unless you are fixing the problem yourself).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01I8UJ0V8/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_inactive_ship_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://i.imgur.com/GiYC8ug.jpg

Replaces the previous 48hr access for $55 subscription option that wasn't locked to a single VIN. Useful for DIY'ers to enable programming the most current GM calibrations for the multiple modules equipped on their Volts via an appropriate OBD-II programming tool.

Yeah I thought about grabbing a coolant tester. Might try the Mityvac brand from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MV4560-Radiator-Cooling-Pressure/dp/B003V9L05G

I love the torque paid app. I think its with the $5. I got the PLX bluetooth off amazon. I don't remember it being quite so expensive but it connects quick every time, has a long cable and an on/off switch. You pay for what you get the $5 bluetooth ObdII adapters aren't going to cut it.

I'm using torque pro and this Bluetooth Latest Version V2.1 Super MINI ELM327 Bluetooth OBD/OBD2 ELM 327 Multi-Language 12Kinds Works ON Android Torque/PC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N2K6M2A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_mEJ3wbCXJSHXQ

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque&hl=en

$12 and it can scan codes, log, virtual dash, etc on both my 08 A4 and my wife's 08 Highlander via my kindle fire hd6.

If you want to go deeper, VCDS or the schwaben/foxwell scanners are the only readily options.

If the car is newer than 1996 and you want to do it yourself you need to look into ODBII. But by the time you get the pi and accessories and an ODBII adapter it would be not much more money to just get something like this this. I've seen them on sale for as little as $79.99.

What is the difference between a Hum and something like an automatic?

http://www.digitaltrends.com/cars/automatic-verizon-hum-vinli-feature-comparison/

Seems like it can operate without a smart device, but otherwise provides the same service?

Use your starter pack to start the car and leave the duff battery on to regulate the power supply and soak up some current from the alternator.

If your starter pack is lithium definitely don't leave it connected you'll damage it and maybe cause it to catch fire. If you have a lead acid one then still don't as if one of the clips shorts against the chassis while driving that could also cause a fire.

---

If you can't afford a new battery then on Monday I'd go to a scrap yard and ask if you can do a straight swap for your duff battery and a similar sized working one they've taken out of a car they've recently scrapped.

I have a few electric fences for livestock, I don't bother with fancy deep-discharge gel batteries, and I never bother charging them either. When they go flat I just swap them for working ones at the scrap yard (which happens to be next door to my farm). They never charge me anything.

It helps if you've got a battery load tester which can apply a heavy resistive load to simulate cranking, as just testing the voltage isn't enough to determine if a battery is good or not.

I use a $12 bluetooth ODBII reader from ISaddle - https://www.amazon.com/iSaddle-Bluetooth-CAN-BUS-Diagnostic-Windows/dp/B00KLZCVGU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473984041&sr=8-1&keywords=isaddle+obdii

Paired to DashCommand or Torque. I like the interface of DashCommand much better, but Torque allows for a little more customization.

Check your oil. Your oil light is on. The engine light is a generic "check engine" light, so I can't tell you about that one. It may be just because your oil pressure light is on. Easiest way to find out without spending too much scratch is to get an ODBII scanner and look at the codes. Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Reader-Diagnostic-Check-Engine-Light/dp/B004IV58AY

First, oil. If that doesn't clear it, scan it.

What year?

If you are just trying to read or clear codes, This will work. It's cheap and it gives you the code. I have this exact one in my tool box and bring it with me if someone asks me to look at their car. I then use google to search what the code means for the car.

Probably something like this

A multimeter won't really work, you need a battery load tester like this guy that actually puts some load on the jump battery.

Better still

Combined with a smartphone/tablet application like Torque and hey presto.

I got mine through the same method order a Bluetooth obd2 I recommend LELink Bluetooth Low Energy BLE OBD-II OBD2 Car Diagnostic Tool for iPhone/iPod/iPad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QJRYMFC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fOkTCbSP2W9Q1 and get leafspy pro app check SOH on battery.

nothing your typical ELM327 mini cant already do, while paired to your non IOS phone with torque pro installed.

verizon prices: 75$ plus mobile data fees involved...

ELM327 price: 7-15 dollars on ebay

torque pro app price: 5$ on google play store

Sure. This is the exact one I bought.

LELink Bluetooth Low Energy BLE OBD-II OBD2 Car Diagnostic Tool For iPhone/iPod/iPad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QJRYMFC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_46GLzbYEMWG80

This is what I use and is suggested on the GM-Volt forums. I think it is worth it, you can update any of the other modules too, if you need.

​

https://www.amazon.com/VXDIAG-Tech2Win-Diagnostic-Programming-System/dp/B074365Q6H/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=vcx+nano&qid=1558923764&s=gateway&sr=8-3

The reason they do not rent them is because they are surprisingly cheap: https://www.amazon.ca/Veepeak-Automotive-Diagnostic-Compliant-Vehicles/dp/B01I8UJ0V8/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1519141724&sr=8-10&keywords=engine+diagnostic+code+reader

Well if there is a puddle, then it's safe to say that's where your coolant is going. If you are crafty, you can take off the plastic panels underneath the car and have a look for leaks. If you want to go pro level crafty they make a tool that you can use to put pressure on the coolant system. When you put pressure on the system, you will definitely be able to find the leak.

Depends a bit on if you're on Android or iOS. iOS used to require one that used wifi but android worked with bluetooth. The adapter has to be version 2.1 compliant which most are not. This seems to be the recommended one per the app description: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QJRYMFC/ref=psdc_15707381_t1_B0755N61PW

Yeah, I bought this one. Comes with a disc that has Torque Pro and DashCommand on it. I never could get DashCommand to work though. It wouldn't connect to the adapter and was only the trial version anyway.

Get this cable for $29.99

Get this FREE software called ForScan and install it to a laptop.

It will do everything you need it to. Ford Specific tests as well as ABS, BODY, AIRBAG modules can be read and even programmed.

Get one of these + one of many android apps for it, and you can get/read CEL codes. As well as pull up gauges with your own parameters. (Oil temp/volts/what have you)

Here's a picture of my setup.

It's one of those things that literally 99% of the time you don't find anything. But that 1% chance you find an awesome tool. I found this temp gun for $3.99 with hard case and paperwork. It was probably priced low because they had no clue what it was. Most of the time the shit you find just buy new because GW's know thrifting is popular and price stuff just below new price, no matter how complete shit or missing pieces or used hard it is.

I'm using this $35 one from Amazon and OBDFusion on iOS. I sprang for the optional IAP Ford code pack to read the specific codes for the FiST that AccessPort owners can monitor. $55 all in, and worth it since both items will work in any car.

I believe this is the one the app recommended at the time, LELink, so that's what I got, even though it's more expensive than most others. I can confirm it works, though: ww.amazon.com/LELink-Bluetooth-Energy-OBD-II-Diagnostic/dp/B00QJRYMFC

This one. been working fine for the last 2 years or so.

Try Dashcommand Torque is really ugly and jittery. Dashcommand has some fantastic skins available, i personally use the Lexus LFA gauge skin

also if you want to have the obd2 sensor installed permanently go for the PLX kiwi. higher sample rate, wired connection so it doesn't hang under your dash, and an on/off switch so it can be left plugged in without draining the car's battery.


its $100 right now, but i got mine for $65 last fall

I use this guy, http://www.amazon.com/iSaddle-Bluetooth-CAN-BUS-Diagnostic-Windows/dp/B00KLZCVGU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420043600&sr=8-1&keywords=isaddle+super+mini+elm327

And Torque for Android. Works great, Torque's UI is really stupid though.

Be wary of the really inexpensive ones. A lot of manufacturers have been keeping the model# and Amazon listing the same, but changing to a cheaper, less compatible chipset. In your link, people in 2015 and earlier say it work with Leaf. Some from in 2016-2018 say it doesn't.

I got burned on a different $10 model of these where the reviews said "Works with Leaf", and it didn't anymore.

This was the one I ended up getting that works: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QJRYMFC/

You might want to buy one of these.

http://www.amazon.com/Reader-Diagnostic-Check-Engine-Light/dp/B004IV58AY


It allows you to view and reset the code yourself. If you keep an eye out they go on sale for $10-$15 sometimes too.

a few basic things, spark plugs, fuel filter, or a sensor.

take it a a discount autopart or somehting similar, or even better buy one of these http://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-425801-Interface-Diagnostic-Software/dp/B005ZWM0R4/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1369345003&sr=8-6&keywords=usb+car+diagnostic and it will tell you if there is a bad sensor.

https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Reader-Diagnostics-Devices/dp/B078K54MT5/

https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B005NLQAHS these are what my smog guy uses for quick engine control diagnostics. he has more advanced scan tools that i have.. this is still what he reaches for first.

I used the Bluetooth OBDII adapter I got on Amazon, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073XKQQQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kvw5Cb3ZXY7X7 and the BimmerCode app for Android. Not sure how to go about it with other methods, but the 2addicts forum had plenty of info.

Works with OBD Fusion and Bimmercode.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073XKQQQW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

As the other poster mentioned - I'd get an ELM327 OBDII reader cheap, though you need an android device to use it. There are some that work over wi-fi for Apple devices, but the linked one below is bluetooth only.
I have this one, mated to a Nexus 7, and use the Torque app ($1.99, I think):
https://www.amazon.com/Version-Bluetooth-Multi-Language-12Kinds-Android/dp/B00N2K6M2A

http://www.amazon.com/iSaddle-Bluetooth-CAN-BUS-Diagnostic-Windows/dp/B00KLZCVGU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1416284424&sr=8-2&keywords=iSaddle
You can get this and leave the insurance company out of it.

I also use this voltage meter.
http://www.amazon.com/AboveTEK%C2%AE-USB-Voltage-Current-Multimeter/dp/B00ICR1UB6

I'd wager to say that the Tesla allows for more control and more configuration, so perhaps i should have said "a customizable on-board computer".

Since the majority of cars today get their "sophisticated" computer translated by a specific piece of hardware that gives feedback in cryptic codes that require translation.

This one?

amazon link

Get a Bluetooth obd2 dongle and the torque app for android. About $20 for both

scanner
torque

Do you have an OBD II reader?

This is $15 and less than half the size of OP's item. I bought both, both work the same.

I woudln't buy one without first getting an ELM327 Bluetooth ODBD2 diagnostic scanner and checking the battery's health with LeafSpy for Android or some equivalent to both.
The one I bought in 2014 is this one, but it is currently unavailable.

Yeah, the LE Link (in case someone wants the link) is really slick by comparison to the other OBD connectors I saw. Very small, pulls nearly no power, and I never even had to pair it.

Takes less than 5mins to do. You need an obd2 to usb cable(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N18TOFB?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf), and The Focccus program(http://ford.xtlt.ru/FoCCCus/).

Here is the mobile version of your link

Here is the link to that doc, you will need an OBDII reader. You can always google how to use Forscan and you can do soooo much to your F150!!

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ForScan Doc:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1uDSQ1Z5a2Wt8-kjrSiVSlDFGFHnfeuhb3RTMVz95730/edit#gid=815852466

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OBDII Reader:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N18TOFB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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I use this one with my iPhone SE, on the list of compatible LeafSpy Pro devices for iOS.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QJRYMFC

2013 Leaf SV

I bought this one http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A1O72TW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage about a year ago and its still going. Its been plugged in ever since I bought it and its smaller then some of the others so it won't get in the way.

I made mine into a car computer code reader.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004B0C1NE/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Raytek MT6 Non-contact MiniTemp Infrared Thermometer
http://amzn.com/B000O80B5M

Per usual, it exists, but you have to pay more for it.

id say go for the lower miles. get a car fax. get under it for awhile (when i buy used im under the truck for an hour or two) just looking. leaks, cracks, rust whatever. bring a flash light and an inspection mirror. i now bring a bore scope. push it down into the frame. cheap on amazon. hooks up to your smart phone.
https://www.amazon.com/Depstech-Semi-rigid-Inspection-Waterproof-Adjustable/dp/B00STB0EW6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499134773&sr=8-2&keywords=borescope
power washing can hide alot. cant hide mud and muck in side a box frame, pull wheels off and look at the brakes.
get a cheap obd II scan tool, pc one is what i have. plug it in, read what it says.
https://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-425801-OBDLink-USB-Professional/dp/B005ZWM0R4/ref=sr_1_25?ie=UTF8&qid=1499134641&sr=8-25&keywords=obd+2

I have the android version of this one, reads everything I want to with no issues.

I bought the veepeak one.
Veepeak OBDCheck BLE OBD2 Bluetooth Scanner Auto OBD II Diagnostic Tool Compatible with iOS & Android, Bluetooth 4.0 Car Check Engine Light Code Reader Supports 1996 and Newer Vehicles in The US https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073XKQQQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6yqQBbHYKVRN7

Live gauges, and accurate error readings. Sorry for weird link, I’m on mobile.

Why would you bother when a cheap OBD-II scanner costs $16?

(Let's be honest; if you need something beyond the cheap scanner then your problem is more than likely not something you're going to fix in your driveway unless you're a mechanic anyway!)

I'm on iOS so it requires a low power bluetooth adapter so I got this.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073XKQQQW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then I bought OBD Fusion off the App Store.

If you run Android then this will work and is cheaper.

https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Supports-DashCommand/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=sr_1_7?crid=29Y0KSBTGU65U&keywords=veepeak+obd2&qid=1573319560&s=automotive&sprefix=veepeak%2Cautomotive%2C211&sr=1-7

> The maestro is only reading what the vehicle is providing so the speed and accuracy is limited by the vehicle manufacturer.

That's bullshit. :/

With something like this you'll see it's a big difference in PIDs/second. Just about any recent car will give you well over 100 PIDs/second. Meanwhile cheapo versions or wireless versions will limit you to 20, or even 10. It's not on the manufacturers, their own equipment has to read this data, if it's not accurate and fast it's either an older car (anything pre-05, most pre-08) or the scanner software/hardware is garbage.

Nah, LED is red. Should be working. I have a USB voltmeter (like this) and can confirm it works with my tronsmart QC 2.0 charger. Check 'settings > battery & power saving > battery usage' for estimated charge time to confirm, also make sure you use a high quality cable. Note that to avoid damaging the battery, the charge slows down once you hit around 60-70%.

this RayTek non-contact thermometer. I use it constantly in my quest to not give myself food poisoning.

I suspect you have a leak somewhere else, as long as it's not overheating or running too hot, you should be able to get it to a dealer without issue. They'll pressure test the cooling system and find the leak, likely a bad o-ring or hose clamp. Or you can do it yourself with one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MV4560-Radiator-Cooling-Pressure/dp/B003V9L05G Just don't go past your system's max pressure or you may blow out a seal or o-ring. Good luck.