(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best screwdrivers & nut drivers

From what I've heard, you don't actually need to take your wheels off to dip. If you don't know what tools you'll need to do it, then you probably should go this route.

However if you still want to get some good tools to learn how to work on your car, here's what you'll need:

Floor jack this is the Harbor Freight one. It can be found in stores for as low as $70 depending on coupons. It's actually a pretty decent jack. Its very low and it lifts well. It's pretty good quality too, just very heavy. If you're not in the states/near a HF, do some research on a decent one as you don't want to drop your car on anyone/anything.

Jack stands you'll need four if you want to take all your wheels off at once. I don't have these stands and I don't know anything about them so do your research on some good ones (they don't have to be very expensive) and make sure to get some that will support your vehicles weight. Remember, be safe.

Breaker bar this will help you get the leverage you need to break your lug nuts loose. It's a very smart idea to properly torque your lug nuts back down when you put your wheels back on so they don't fall off or you don't snap a stud. Here's a combo kit with a torque wrench and that same breaker bar I have a few Tekton brand tools and I'm very pleased with them. They are a fantastic budget option that isn't junk. I would definitely buy from them again (and I'm a bit of a tool snob)

Lug nut sockets this is a generic kit that I have no experience with. You'll need a socket to fit on your breaker bar and torque wrench. This is a set with multiple sizes, you only need one size for your car so if you want to save some money, figure out what size your lug nuts are and just get one socket. The ones in this kit and some you'll find elsewhere are coated in a plastic sleeve to prevent scratching on your wheels.

Gloves Gloves aren't necessary but some people like them to keep from getting their hands super dirty. You can get as cheap or as expensive as you like with gloves. These seem to be popular. If you do go to HF to buy a floor jack, I like their heavy duty black nitrile gloves. They're disposable and very strong.

This should be all you need to get started with changing tires and whatnot. I'm on mobile so sorry for the inevitable typo. Good luck with your wheels and don't forget to post pictures on the finished product. I'll link some more tools below this if you'd like to build of a kit to do basic maintenance like changing your oil, etc...

Socket set This is a very good place to start with sockets. I linked a 1/4 drive and 3/8 combo set. The smaller 1/4 inch drive sockets are great for small places and will be fine for a lot of your car. The 3/8 inch drive set is good for larger fasteners or things that are a bit tighter. If you were only going to get one, I'd get the 3/8 drive. Alternatively if you want something a little bit better, GearWrench makes very good sockets and ratchets for a good price as well (more than Tekton but way less than "professional" tool truck brands)

Oil drain pan Doing an oil change is a great way to do maintenance on your car and get started before you do bigger things. You'll need to drain the old oil somewhere so a pan like this is perfect. You don't need anything too fancy. I think I got mine from my local auto parts store for ~$10.

Screwdrivers There's a million different options for these. My personal favorites are the Wera Kraftform screwdrivers they are super comfortable and they have a special non slip tip that is amazing. I don't want to use any other screwdriver ever after this. (They're on sale now too!! They're usually about ~$10 more than this. I almost want to get an other set just because)

Pliers These are great pliers at a good price. Keep them clean and they should last a long time. I'm very happy with mine.

I can't think of much more right now. You'll know when you need something else. This also depends on what kind of car you have. Jeeps for example, use a lot of torx fasteners so you'd need torx sockets for a lot of stuff. Just make sure you watch a lot of videos on how to do things and make sure you're comfortable doing whatever it is you're doing. The last thing you want to do is damage you or your car.

Hello fellow MX518 master! I still have mine as well, but don't use it much as of now.

Which headset, headphones do you have? I could perhaps suggest you with something nice here as well.

---

This PC will kick ass and chew bubblegum. It's able to record gameplay no problem. You can even edit it fairly well as well.

I went for a black & red theme, since that's the most common and easiest to create, but if you want a different color, let me know and I can go to town!

I didn't go all out on your budget, because honestly, you don't have to spend more. I already went to the very high end tier for most parts.

Also, a couple of parts are from MicroCenter.

---

Talking about the parts, I will provide you with my standard list of videos to help you understand why I suggest these.

I also give you a couple of great guides to help you build the PC.

Lastly, I will provide a short rationale or review for the products.

---

PCPartPicker part list

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-6700 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor | $300.00 @ MicroCenter (combo)
CPU Cooler | CRYORIG M9i 48.4 CFM CPU Cooler | $20.00 @ Newegg
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $120.00 @ MicroCenter (combo)
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $49.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $149.00 @ Newegg
Storage | Western Digital Blue 2TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive | $70.00 @ MicroCenter
Case | Phanteks Enthoo Pro M Acrylic ATX Mid Tower Case | $89.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | Corsair RMx 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $109.99 @ Amazon
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) | $85.99 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Thermaltake CL-F039-PL14RE-A 51.1 CFM 140mm Fan | $15.82 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Thermaltake CL-F039-PL14RE-A 51.1 CFM 140mm Fan | $15.82 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Thermaltake CL-F039-PL14RE-A 51.1 CFM 140mm Fan | $15.82 @ Amazon
Tools| Anti Static Wrist Strap| $4.00 @ MicroCenter
Tools| Screwdriver Set| $7.33 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes and discounts | NO rebates!
| Total | $1053.75
| Generated by Kiwiandapple |

---

####Learn about cool technology in only a couple minutes!

---

What is overclocking?: Here - 2:32 minutes.

What is the difference between i3, i5 & i7?: Here - 4:32 ← Important!
What is hyperthreading?: Here - 4:47
What is turbo boost?: Here - 4:05
CPU shopping guide: Here - 5:01 ← Important!
GPU shopping guide: Here - 4:11 ← Important!
How many cores do I need for gaming?: Here - 8:18 ← Important!
What is a motherboard?: Here - 4:46
Which motherboard is the best to buy?: Here - 10:07
DDR3 vs DDR4 speeds: Here - 8:01 ← Important!
USB Type C: Here - 4:30
What are benchmarks?: Here - 5:21
Pre-built vs building your own?: Here - 6:04
Optical vs laser mouse: Here - 2:10
Radiators explained: Here - 4:34
What is resolution?: Here - 5:22 ← Important!
Different panel types: Here - 2:29 ← Important!
Monitor refresh-rate: Here - 5:46
What is G-sync?: Here - 5:52
What is Shadowplay?: Here - 3:59
Case air pressure: Here - 5:21
Case fan orientation: Here - 3:42
What is a NAS?: Here - 5:06
What PSU to buy?: Here - 5:12 ← Important!
What does 80+ mean?: Here - 3:02

Likely that TechQuickie got even more video's that you can have a look at to get answers. It's a great YouTube channel for easy, quickly explained questions about PC tech.


---

####Guides

---

Now before you have a look at all these guides. The best guide in most cases will always be your MANUAL. Some manuals are garbage, but most of them are more than good enough to be able to help figure out most problems.

How to build an Intel 115x socket PC?
This is my personal favorite because it goes in depth, but still keeps the video relatively short.
It also got great camera work so you are able to follow all the steps very well.
I would suggest to install the aftermarket CPU cooler right away, then you don't have to clean the thermal paste.
I decided to skip the start of the video. The reason being that the video is posted on 17th of May 2013, he gives the rationale of his selected parts at the start. This is a very long time ago, so the parts are very old, so no need to hear this out. But building a PC is still pretty much the same. No drastic changes.
There are a lot of different build guides on the internet, but I really like this one. It's easy to follow.

How to install a 115x CPU?
Very simple and easy to follow guide again.
How to install thermal compound?
The temperature difference between the best and the "worst" thermal compound is a couple degrees Celsius. The temperature difference between applying thermal compound one way or an other.. is 0 degrees.
Be careful though! The only way that the temperature will rise is when you don't put enough. So it needs to have enough, but too much can cause problems as well. So don't go overkill either!
Thermal compound helps with the contact of the cooler + the CPU. They both have microscopically small gaps, which the thermal compound fills up to let the heat get too the heatsink.
How to install Windows 8(.1) or 10 from an USB drive?
You have to download "media creation tool" which is located at the bottom of the page (blue button). Run that program with a 4GB+ USB flash drive plugged into a PC. Then follow the simple steps and the program will make the USB drive bootable. After that all you have to do is build the PC and boot from that USB drive to install Windows.
How to set up your SSD & HDD?
This video is another older video, but it works pretty much the same in Win 8/10.
* How to use Ninite?
This video explains it very well, as well as their recommendations. For security I advise to only get Avira (if you don't mind to get an add every day; if you do mind - just use Microsoft Defender) & Malwarebytes. If you want to pay for an anti-virus; Webroot! Light weight; very high detection rate.

For (bigger) diagonal cutters/pliers, I think the most BIFL are NWS with their "Titan finish". Knipex is a fairly close second, but I like the finish on NWS better. Both can handle hard and medium hard wire (including nails and screws) without a problem, unlike most Klein, Snap-On, etc. The biggest issue is finding NWS in the US. The NWS Fantastico Plus are the best diagonal cutters I've ever laid my hands on.

For precision cutters/pliers, Xuron. They're semi-flush (Xuron call them flush, but I'd still call them semi-flush) micro sheer cutters are great but thankfully don't seem to nick up easily like (Xcelite, Snap-On, etc.) flush cutters do. I like the ones with that are ESD safe, with extra long handles, and the lead retainer best if you're going to be populating a lot of circuit boards. Otherwise, their cheaper models are just as nice.

Wiha precision screwdrivers. I've given this set as a gift before. Wera for the bigger stuff if you need it. Wiha or Wera bits (only larger sizes, I've never found precision bits I've particularly liked).

Klein to fill in gaps.

Bondhus hex keys.

Find a nice used Fluke multimeter on eBay. 89IV go for under $200 and have pretty much identical features to the 189 (believe the 189 mostly just has a bigger inductance/capacitance range). Most universities will have someone tasked with calibration/maintaining the measurement equipment. Make friends and he'll probably calibrate it for you/teach you how/just let you jump in and try. Mine was falling out of the box after UPS drop kicked it to my door, but the calibration was still super boring as nothing needed adjustment.

Hakko or Weller soldering station. Easy to find tips, especially for Weller. WESD51 dropped to $99 on Amazon a couple times in the last year, great time to scoop one up for little more than the analog version. The Stahl Tools one Amazon sells is also good for dirt cheap, but not really BIFL; good luck on finding tips. Metcal is too rich for my blood, but if you ever happen across one that is cheap.

Kester "44" solder, accept no substitute. 63/37 or 60/40, but since the spool will last you half a lifetime, I'd probably go with the 63/37.

I have a love/hate relationship with wire strippers. Something like this usually gets the job done, but sometimes you'll get wire with a strange jacket size and they'll fail. For the automatic kind, this style works ok (especially if you adjust it to what you're stripping), but I usually like this style better; again, as long as the jacket isn't too small and you wire is in the right range. Sadly, I probably most often grab for cheapies like this. The adjustment screw is great if you have to do a lot of a certain size, but I tend to free hand them. It takes quite a bit of practice, but once you get the hang of it, it's the fastest. Thermal wire strippers are just too pricey for the home user, especially if you want to do PVC, teflon, etc. jacketed wire.

I also have a love/hate relationship with crimpers. I have some crimpers I got for Anderson Powerpole connectors from West Mountain Radio (largely because I couldn't believe how cheap they are-- connector-specific crimpers are usually many times the price they charge) and they were great for the Powerpoles. I even bought some of the other die sets, but I've been less happy with those. I often end up using a similar pair to these or the die on a pair of Klein lineman's pliers for the larger crimps.

Snap-On ratchets run around $100 each, as does a set of sockets. Going with something like a 3/8 or 1/4 80-tooth ratchet (FHL80 and F80 are two of the classic snapon designs) and an SAE and Metric set of sockets will be a GREAT gift that lasts a LONG TIME. This will sound weird, but Pawn Shops are a great place to get Snap-On stuff. I know it is strange giving a used item as a gift but it isn't uncommon because these things are such high quality. Or you can buy one part new (like the ratchet) and get a few sets of sockets from the pawn shop or visa versa. Look on ebay and local pawn shops to see what deals you can find to give him the most impressive gift possible.

For screwdrivers you can go with this Wera Kraftform Laser Tip or this, Wera Kraftform Chisel Tip or this Proto Duratek set. Now obviously, you can go smaller sets to save money or larger sets to cover more options. I have the Wera Laser Tips set that I mentioned and it is quite nice. The screwdrivers are excellent quality as I mentioned before. The Chisel Tips don't have the laser cut on the tips, but they have a MUCH harder screwdriver. They are designed to be pounded on with a HAMMER! Either of the two Wera kits covers everything you need for larger screwdrivers other than JIS screws (which are only necessary if he works on Japanese vehicles or motorcycles).

For precision Wiha makes great precision stuff. There is the classic big kit, flat version or benchtop version, which is pricey but has pretty much EVERY precision screw driver and small nut driver he could need (other than proprietary ones or security ones, but those you get on an as needed basis anyways). There is also this one, which I own. It isn't quite as nice as the previous kit, but it still is really damn nice with a very well made metal case and the quality of the tips is excellent.

A good multimeter like a Greenlee DM-510A (rebadged Brymen BM257S iirc) will do well for him (often goes on sale for around $110-130). Otherwise, a Fluke 87V will run around $150(if lucky)-$250 used on ebay in excellent condition. The Fluke 87V is the classic high-quality multimeter. A third option is the Brymen BM869S, which you can get from TME.eu in Europe for around $240. This thing is an amazing meter (it is by far my favorite meter) but Brymen doesn't have the name recognition that Fluke has so it might not be the best for a gift.

You can pick and choose from these options to maximize your gift impact. As for the design of the garage, I'm a bad example. I keep a small limited amount of quality stuff, because I move around a lot. You can snoop around on the forums at GarageJournal. You will encounter a LOT of garages that will help you get ideas in your mind. You can ask questions there as well if you are having trouble.

The 1391401 is considered the quintessential Model M. It is usually what people are thinking of when they think of Model Ms. Generally, the earlier 1986 - 1988 Model Ms are the more highly desirable ones as they have thicker backplates and a more solid construction. (btw the 1391401 began production in early 1987) A few of my most prized Ms are from this 1986 era, especially the ones that have a barcode label on the back.

They then went through a few stages of cost cutting, so the case and the backplate are a little thinner as the years go on but the buckling spring switch mechanics were relatively unchanged. The keyboards are still quite nice, and there are quite a few from the later years that I really like a lot.

In 1993, some employees bought the keyboard division of IBM and renamed themselves Lexmark. The backplates and case become thinner still. Although they definitely feel a little "lighter," they are still nice keyboards and really fun to type on. That being said, it is apparent as you become familiar with them, that the molds that were used to stamp the parts out started getting rougher and less precise, and the keycap legends are not quite as sharp and bold.

One of the things I love most about Ms, is that they are tremendously durable and easy to clean up and make look new or near new. Just takes a 5.5mm (or 7/32) nut driver with thin walls to remove the case (I bought this one and it has served me nicely - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQ4XP6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Lots of guides on cleaning up Ms to be found on the web.

As a first M, I think a 1391401 is a perfect one to look for. There are a lot of Ms on ebay, however a lot of sellers seem to think theirs are worth hundreds of dollars and most aren't. There were millions of these keyboards sold, so most standard models are not rare at all. With some patience and persistent browsing, you can find a nice one for a very modest amount of $. I have found more than a few (often quite dirty) from between $30 - $50, which I think is a good range to aim for - depending on age, condition etc. You probably want to avoid a Terminal M as your first, as it will take a bit more work/money to get working with a modern computer.

Also, you will likely save money by finding one that has a SDL - PS2 cable, as buying one on its own will likely cost a few more dollars. When you do, if you don't have a PS2 connection on your pc, you will need an active adapter. The Sanoxy blue cube is perfect -

https://www.amazon.com/SANOXY-PS2-Keyboard-USB-Adapter/dp/B000BSJFJS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493617382&sr=8-1&keywords=sanoxy+blue+cube

It's cheap and works well and is endorsed by clickykeyboards, the foremost restorer and expert on Model Ms. He has written my favorite buyers guide on them:
http://www.clickeykeyboards.com/model-m-buyers-guide/

I thought it was spelled Murlock...but whatever anyways!

/u/Hansoda seeing as the thread that spawned initially wasn't super helpful, funny tho :P, what you want to look for is entry level helpdesk support or chat support or anything like that. ISPs are typically ALWAYS looking....but if you can avoid that hell please do, you'll keep your sanity a bit longer then us here :)

But yeah in short the things I would tell you to get an understanding of are simple really:

• Learn everything you can about Windows 7 / 10. Try to get some Mac OSx knowledge if you can (atleast like how to browse through the computer like you do Windows, probably haha) and definitely try to atleast get a grasp on how simple programming works (like how to make a batch file would be good to know...but again google is your friend. I have figured out how to make service tasks for Windows 7, make a cloud server for free in Nextcloud, edit the properties of an installer so it would natively install for all users on the computer and not just myself, etc all through google!).
  
  
• DO NOT WORRY ABOUT NOT KNOWING WHAT A DOMAIN IS. It is just a network that companies sit on so they are more secure then without and also allows access to network drivers from the server that is also attached to the domain (simplified explanation but it works).
  
  
• Know how to build a computer and fix things with it.
  
  
• Know how to correct issues with iphones/android (software, like updates or how to edit an emails password).
  
  
• Know how to use GOOGLE, it is seriously our best friend in IT.
  
  
• Make sure to ask questions on anything you have a question on, if you're boss can't answer it then google....okay reverse that, ask Google first then your boss).
  
  
• Don't worry about servers or anything like that, they are not complicated (although people make it out to be) - they are basically just a computer in a sliding rack.
  
  
• Don't worry if someone asks you if you have ever worked with AD (Active Directory) - it is SO EASY to understand, if you can build a computer and fix software problems within Windows or a cell phone then AD would be a breeze for you. You basically have a set of folders (OU as its called) that contain users (say: John Doe)- you want to reset John Doe password you go to the folder he is in, say Marketing and click that folder and then find John Doe and right-click his name and click reset password, that is it basically.
  
  
• You can find AD information through YouTube or online guides :) I advise learning it as it is soooo sooo simple and almost EVERY company will use it.
  
  
• If you can: learn how to disassemble laptops and replace parts within them (trust me I had never done it before either and I've taken laptops apart many times since 2 years ago when I did my first disassemble for work). This site here is VERY good at telling you what to do :) I advise getting a set of magnetic tools and a magentic bowl to hold all the screws in a secure location while working on them so you don't lose any.
  
  
  Um...that is about all I can think of :P sorry for the super long post mate but I hope this helps and gives you a better idea of what to learn/watch/know. This all comes from my own experience and knowledge as a person who started his IT career back when I was 18 for a Call Center/then my own business/then doing work for realtors/then consultant style work/and now I'm at what is basically a bomb and munitions disposal company haha; also I'm now 27 so quite a long time doing various IT work! :D

Edit: I'M SO SORRY FOR THE ACCIDENTAL CLICKBAIT, THEY ARE JUST STYLED LIKE A PRO-CONTROLLER, MY FAULT

After seeing the countless posts of other custom shell swaps, I figured I had waited long enough to do my own, but with a little modern twist, in this case making them look similar to the pro-controller. I think it turned out really well!

Parts/Items List

• Transparent Shells w/ D-Pad
  
• Tool Kit
  
• Black Spray Dye
  
• Matte Spray Finish
  
  Disassembly
  
  The first thing I did, was obviously taking apart my original (Neon Red) shells to be able to switch the parts into my painted shells. I decided against using the transparent battery trays, and instead opted to spray paint them matte black, as it darkens the whole joy-con overall, and it was a very simple paint job. For disassembly and reassembly I used Spawn Wave's Video as it was the clearest, but most concise video I'd found, but any tutorial works fine. The tool kit I linked works wonders, and has everything you'll need, from tri-point screwdrivers to little pliers. I then took all the disassembled pieces and set them into separate containers so I wouldn't lose anything.
  
  Painting
  
  To start off, I washed all the shell pieces with some water, and let them dry, just so no dust particles got trapped. I made a little spray painting "rig" with some cardboard pieces so I could set the front shells on top and ensure I sprayed all sides evenly. I started with 6-7 fairly light coats of the Tamiya Smoke Dye, and made sure it was the right darkness, before letting it dry a few hours. I waited 3 minutes between coats, making sure I sprayed evenly on all pieces. Only issue I did have with the smoke was that it run out of paint right after the final coat, so be aware of that.
  
  Following the dye drying, I sprayed two coats of the Krylon Matte paint, before again letting it dry for a couple hours. I wish I had gone a little lighter on the matte, as a little more transparency would've been awesome, but I honestly can't complain with the final product.
  
  Wrap-Up
  
  After they had completely dried, I slipped the pieces back into the shells (once again following Spawn Wave's video) and sealed it up. Overall it wasn't too difficult a process, but if there are any tips I'd suggest, I would recommend making sure to apply a fair bit of pressure when unscrewing and screwing on the screws. I was close to stripping the phillips head screws on the analog sticks, but luckily I avoided that entirely. One issue I did have with the shells, was that the plus button isn't quite as clicky as before, but it really is only a minor issue. All-in-all I'm very happy with them, and they've got a great matte texture that feels good on the hands. If you've got any questions or clarifications, let me know and I'll help you out!
  
  

This is a really easy repair - most of the time, you will only need to a few screws from the bezel. I have replaced a lot of laptop screens; it generally takes about 15 minutes when you become proficient or about an hour if it is your first time.

As others have stated, the repair should not be too difficult if you do it yourself. Depending on the make and model of your laptop, there are likely half a dozen videos on Youtube or iFixIt.

When I need a screen, I purchase from this website. I have already selected Dell from the list of available brands. On the bottom of your laptop, thre should be a model name and model number. Once you obtain this information, you just select the model name from the list and then choose your model number. From there, you should only have two options, which will be based on your preference: matte or glossy screen finish. I prefer matte finishes as they are less likely to hold onto fingerprints and "stain smear". Side note - somtimes LCDs can have a connector on the left or right. In this case, you will want to dissect your laptop first to determine which screen you need.

You may be able to get a screen cheaper on eBay, but I like this website and have been ordering from them for years. They always have the screen delivered before the ETA and they pack them really well. I have never received a bad screen from them. Good customer service, too. They are legit.

You can check the site to see if they have a replacement video for your laptop - I think it should be listed on the pages that shows you the laptop screen for your computer in the lower portion of the screen (past the section where they offer you tools / accessories for your repair. See if it is something you are comfortable doing on your own before you get started. I would recommend getting your tools / accessories from Amazon. They have a really nice set here.

If you decide to do it yourself, I would just advise paying special attention to the following areas:

• Battery - I would recommend removing the battery from the computer, even if the video does specify you do this.
  
• Bezel - when removing, check to ensure you have removed all the screws before prying. A lot of times, there is ALSO adhesive keeping the two pieces together. Do not be afraid to pry, but be aware that this can cause the bezel to crack or snap.
  
• Screen - Ensure you remove the plastic cover from the front before you reinstall the bezel, but not before securing it using the screws into the bracket.
  
• Back of the Screen - When removing / securing the connector, be especially careful not to damage the pins or overly bend anything. They can be easily damaged if you are not careful. There should be two little teeth on both sides that slide into place when it is fully secured. If you removed the tape during the removal process, ensure they gets replaced to properly hold the connector in place.
  
• Before completion - Obviously you will also want to ensure the screen works before replacing the bezel.
  
  I think you should be fine doing this yourself. If you get stuck, you can PM me.

As someone working through this but a few years ahead of you, I'll pass along the list of stuff I've bought and/or wish to buy...

Hand Tools

1. You say you have screwdrivers, but ifs worthwhile to have a full complement of them. You might consider getting a hand tool set like this one. Also, diagonals. Can't stress that enough. Eventually, you might upgrade a lot of these, but it'll get you started.
   
   
2. Ratcheting wrenches, along these lines. Conventional wrenches are functional, but these are much more so.
   
   
3. Ratcheting hex key set. In fact, this one looks good. If you have any Ikea furniture in your future, these will be worth their weight in guld.
   
   
4. Maybe a vise. That particular vice is mid-priced, but you can find well-reviewed vises at just about any price point.
   
   
5. A good range of sand paper grits: 80, 100, 120, 150, 180. You might also pick up a sanding sponge.
   
   Power Tools
   
   
6. A Dremel
   
   
7. Maybe an electric circular saw or a jigsaw. I really don't know which I'd prioritize, but you should probably have at least one of them.
   
   
8. If there's money left over in your budget, I'd suggest a random orbit sander.
   
   
9. A drill press
   
   Also, there are fluids to consider
   
   
10. Simple Green
    
    
11. Penetrating oil
    
    
12. Wood Glue
    
    
13. Mineral Spirits
    
    
14. Linseed Oil
    
    Of these, I'd focus on the hand tools, fluids, and the Dremel. You can always ask someone to buy you a saw for Christmas. If you have these things on hand, there probably won't be a job come along that you can't handle at some basic level. I'm assuming you don't need yard grooming tools, because that's an entirely different list.

I have the same 13” mid 2012 MBP and am running 16gb of RAM w/ a 1TB SSD. I also have the same version of Ableton as you. The official specs from Apple list 8gb RAM as the max but it can for sure support 16gb. Based on the specs you provided I’d guess you have the i5 version which comes stock with 4gb of RAM and the 500gb HDD. Your model will support 16gb and you’ll see a significant boost in performance, with Ableton and the computer in general, if you add 16gb and an SSD. If you leave the standard 500gb HDD, I'd assume you'd only see a moderate boost in performance since that's really the big driver of slow performance. I can't speak to the performance of Omnisphere as I don't have a working copy but I do know it made a significant boost for pretty much everything in Ableton and otherwise.

​

My recommendation would be to add 16gb of RAM plus an SSD. They are both relatively straight forward processes as well (links below), just need the right tools and to take your time. Watch YouTube tutorials. Attaching links to the items I have in mine. I'd recommend getting the Crucial RAM and Samsung SSD (which is what I have and has a higher performance rating), but the Crucial SSD will be adequate as well.

​

Let me know if you have other questions on it.

​

INSTRUCTIONS

HDD Swap - https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/MacBook+Pro+13-Inch+Unibody+Mid+2012+Hard+Drive+Replacement/10378

RAM Swap - https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/MacBook+Pro+13-Inch+Unibody+Mid+2012+RAM+Replacement/10374

​

PRODUCTS

Crucial SSD - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0784SLQM6/

Samsung SSD - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0781Z7Y3S/

RAM - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008LTBJFW/

Tool Kit - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IVKPTP6/

Here are some links. Most of these are things that if someone had, they wouldn't mind having doubles or whatever. Most of them I own or have used and liked. Many of them can be found at big box stores but all of these should contain brand and picture..

Like, the utility knife is a particular one that is really nice, both brand and style. Super handy for cutting thick insulation.

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWHT10045-Single-Blade-Snap-Off/dp/B0051QIA3C

Can't go wrong with knipex cutters. Anything knipex is pretty good. Without knowing more details on what they are into, this is a decent all rounder.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000X4MPAQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1418895942&sr=8-2&dpPl=1&dpID=31TAs95wNXL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

Things always need oiling. Hinges and ball bearings and stuff.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KKHNU0
(Plus)
http://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Kroil-Penetrating-Lube-Aerosol/dp/B00EINDJSU/

One screwdriver that serves many functions in one small, cheap package:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_170991-86580-SF14_4294857608__?productId=1221941

A tape measure that has the decimal / fractional written on it. I can read a normal one, but I find work with my Lufkin more accurate and less transposed bits.

http://www.amazon.com/Lufkin-QRL625MP-Vertical-1-Inch-25-Feet/dp/B004R1JPEA/

Ball end metric allen wrenches with screwdriver handles. They make many sets ( standard, etc)

http://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-10687-Balldriver-Screwdrivers-ProGuard/dp/B0006O4ADI

These clamps are decent and cheap for both woodworking and metalworking. Irwin is a nice namebrand but it's a lot more money for just a clamp.

http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/clamps/11-inch-swivel-pad-lock-grip-pliers-39535.html

Metalworking with flat stock.. you often have some holes that need to be drilled from a template to a thing. These center in the hole and transfer the marks. (Using the clamp helps too)
http://www.harborfreight.com/28-piece-transfer-punch-set-3577.html

Good quality headlamp with a red mode. I like the red mode for outdoorsy things. Non red mode lamp people are jerks when they turn and talk at you and blow your night vision.
http://www.rei.com/product/866955/petzl-tactikka-plus-headlamp

Here is iFixIt's teardown for the 2012 MBP unibody, just follow the first few steps to replace the HD with the SSD and take out the optical drive. Then you should follow the instructions for whatever optibay you buy to put the HD in there--it should be straightforward, just snap it into the connector and put in a couple screws.

The SSD/HDD dual set up guide you linked is good. The most important thing is to keep all the prefs, caches, library files, etc that get read/written to a lot on the SSD to take advantage of those speed gains. My set up is everything but Desktop, Movies, Pictures, Downloads (I use it for storage.. if you'll use it just for temp stuff you download before moving them elsewhere then you can leave that on the SSD), Documents, and the iTunes Music folder is on the SSD, and I permalinked those folders so they are fully integrated into Finder. The only problem is that their icons don't appear as folders that you can quick look (press space to quickly preview) or expand, rather they act as files almost that take you to the real location on the HD. You can do the permalink through terminal or use the symbolic linker app to do it easier.

Ideally, you would have the SSD in the Optibay and the HDD in the main slot so the HDD can still take advantage of the sudden motion detector in case you drop the laptop and so there is less noise because the spinning HDD will be a lot quieter in the shielded main slot... BUT the 2011/2012 MBP's have crashing problems with Sata 3 (6 Gbps) drives in the optical drive slot... SO you'll have to take out the HDD from the main slot, put the SSD there, put the HDD in the Optibay, then install the Optibay in place of the Superdrive.

You'll just need a Phillips #0 and #00 screwdriver, and a spudger if you want (if you are gentle and have some fingernail, you can do it with your hands). I couldn't find them at my local Home Depot when I did my upgrade (mid 2009 mbp), but Radioshack has a decent set. They aren't the highest quality but they are magnetized so that prevents the screws accidentally dropping into the laptop's frame when you are removing them and they do the trick. If you feel like you might be stripping a screw, invest in a set of high quality Phillip's Wiha precision screwdrivers.

If you are considering partitioning and installing Windows using Bootcamp, know that you have to do that from the internal SuperDrive, you can't do it from an external CD drive. I have heard that if you put an enclosure, around $30, on the Superdrive and connect via USB it may work however. You could either install Windows while doing the SSD install, or plan on putting the Superdrive back in later to install Windows. Either way I would recommend installing to the SSD--256 GB should be more than plenty. That said, there are more convenient ways to run Windows such as Parallels or VMWare Fusion that integrate Windows directly into OSX so consider that too if you don't need a 100% windows environment.

Set-up routine.. I recommend wiping the SSD then installing Lion to it. Follow the Apple instructions here, under the section Installing Lion on an external storage device. Then boot to the SSD, wipe the HD using Disk Utility's Erase feature, leave it as Mac OS Extended Journaled and choose Zero Out Data from the security options. Then copy the Movies, Pictures, etc folders to the HD drive and create the symbolic links and delete the original folders.


I didn't proofread that so sorry for typos or if it's just a wall of information but if you have any questions or need more advice I would be glad to help

Gorruck 34L GR2 Coyote Tan - a good bag, heavy, uncomfortable, probably give it to my grandchildren in like 50 years

Flip Flops - generic things

Bigblue 28W solar charger - very good, can charge my battery up during the day if i leave it in the sun which I've never really done honestly

Jakemy hardware tools - seamed useful? i've never needed this

Army glove shells - i thought i used these a lot and were indistructable but now that i think of it, i don't use them that often and are probably pretty cheaply made.

Sharpie, pen, all weather notebook - probably should switch over to a fisher space pen...

Straws - these are probably already broken.

Whistle - really really really loud

Fire-striker, matches, lighter - i'm not sure i have enough ways to start a fire

Fresnel lens - ok, now i have enough

LED flashlight - i used to go running in the middle of the night with this flashlight, its tiny

LED flashlight - this isn't the one i have but looks kinda similar? i don't remember where i got mine

Earbuds - generic cheap earbuds

Leatherman Surge - given to me by my wife for passing the bar. thanks wife!

First Aide kit - i put mine together from stuff i've stolen from friends houses whenever i go over and use the bathroom

playing cards - these look very similar to the ones i have, they are plastic so they won't get rained on

glasses/ sunglasses - i have really bad vision

personal hygiene kit - aahhhh dry shaving

Sawyer Mini / syringe, collapsible canteen (dirty), heavy duty straw - i've never used this

collapsible canteen (clean) - i've never used this either

sewing kit - i've used this a lot

ID tags - i guess if i get blown up they'll know my blood type?

garbage bag - for when my pockets are full

elastic bands - i use these when packing to keep rolled socks and things from falling apart

Salt - i have nooooo idea why i have this

cooking grate - i'm not going to hold meat over a fire with a stick like some sort of caveman

heavy duty ziplock bag - in case my mapcase breaks and other reasons

rip-patch - leftover from when i needed a pack because i bought a crummy cheap inflatable sleeping pad.

Army Fleece Beanie - i always keep this at the top of my pack

4 Bungie Cords - not the one i use but similar. to make a field-expedient shelter

Trowel - for disposal of biological wastes

Lensatic compass - because GPS should only be a backup

Pocketboy 130 folding saw - i have a bigger one for yardwork, this small one is really great

Tent stakes - for tent staking

Ravpower 26800 Battery - use this all the time can fast chage my stuff

Battery Battery holder, cables, wall charger - all fits togehter like glove!

Army Poncho - wear it, make a tent out of it etc

Microfiber towel - not the one i use but similar. i mainly use this for when the kids accidentally fall in a lake like they tend to do for some reason

Down Jacket - cheap chinese knockoff... i feel bad for not buying american

Wet weather top - not sure this is worth the space/weight

Wet Weather bottom - not sure if this is worth the weight/space

Silkweights - PJs! and warmth

Jungle Blanket - this is a lot better than the army's woobie. lighter and warmer

Gransfors Bruks Wildlife Hatchet - again, gift from wife. she wanted me to chop things and be more manly, generally. now i come home with parts of wildlife for her to cook

Map of New England - or, how i stopped worrying and love dismounted land navigation

PT belt - keeps me safe in all situations

Compression straps - i don't like lashing things to the outside but i guess i can if i wanted to

Fork and Spoon - stole these from the kitchen. i'll probably be replacing this soon with something titanium.

​

EDIT: i just priced it out: $1,585.08 total

It might be worth looking at some of the industrial brands - they basically sell the truck tool brands (snap-on/matco/etc) for like 1/2 the price:

http://toolchat.net/ shows which models match up.

If you want to go cheaper, I personally think the gearwrench line of stuff is one of the best bets for quality:price. You also get free returns at autozone/sears/etc.

One thing to keep in mind is what tools you ACTUALLY need. For example, is your truck domestic or foreign? You may not really need SAE style sockets all.

General tips I've found researching tools:

• 6pt sockets do better at not rounding out nuts than 12pt
  
• A variety of deep and standard sockets is a good idea
  
• For screwdrivers, the swiss/german stuff is really good (wiha, witte, etc)
  
  I'd avoid craftsman these days. Most of the modern stuff is all made in china and pretty crappy. The exception would be if you wait for sales and get stuff really cheap, like $1-$2 per wrench.
  
  Here are some sets I'd consider buying:
  
  Williams Socket Set - because it's 3/8" which is a good balanced compromise, has both metric and SAE, deep and shallow. Industrial snap-on.
  
  Wiha precision screwdriver set - For small electronics work with PH000, PH00, etc
  
  Williams WRS-1 ratcheting screwdriver - This one is a snap-on clone at like 1/2 the price
  
  Don't overspend on tools as just a home/shadetree mechanic. If you want to splurge anywhere, just pick a few select tools that you'll use a lot like a ratchet, power drill, #1 screwdriver.
  

Step 1: Buy a multimeter. I prefer the Fluke 87v http://amzn.com/B0002YFD1K Sure it's $387, but it'll pay for itself eventually.

Step 2: You'll need to take apart the charger. A good set of screwdrivers would definitely help. http://amzn.com/B000NZ5QG0 It's only $40. Wiha maybe isn't the best, but I like them and they do offer a 100% satisfaction guarantee.

Step 3: Once you open it up, you can start testing it with the multimeter. Inevitably, however, you'll probably have to solder something. Hakko is a popular brand for good reason. This one is under $100 AND it comes with wire cutters: http://amzn.com/B00AWUFVY8

Step 4: After you put it back together and find out that it's still not working, buy a replacement charger.

I worked at a bicycle shop for about a year and a half, and that was a couple of years ago, so take these tips with caution.

For tools, a basic mechanic set and some screw drivers should be what you need to get started on the routine maintenance. I'm assuming a 15mm crescent wrench is what you need to remove the wheels.

The spokes, however require a deal of training and some specialized tools to perform a proper repair. However, I'm sure there are YouTube videos that will teach you how to adjust and replace spokes without special tools, but you run the risk of damaging the nipples (the small threaded pieces that the spokes go into) and/or spokes.

Hopefully, your usual bike shop will be willing to show you how to do the fairly routine things, but if not you may want to see if there are any workshops near you that you can attend. Getting hands-on practice with people who know what they're doing is (in my opinion) the best way to learn mechanical tasks.

​

To reduce the amount of flats you get, you have options.

1. Write/Call your local department of transportation and ask them to clean the roadways
   
2. Upgrade your current tires to something more durable (I would recommend the Continental Ultra Gatorskin)
   
3. Carry a flat repair kit and some spare tubes (you'll want to add a crescent wrench to remove your wheels)
   
   There's also the nice things to have on hand as well:
   
   

• Chain lube
  
• Spare tubes
  
• Bicycle pump
  
• Rags to dry off the bike and chain so they don't rust
  
  Also, I have found Sheldon Brown's website quite useful when I needed some walk-throughs.
  
  ​
  
  Sucks that your local shop is closing down! I'm sorry to hear that.
  
  ​

Hmm... I think my favorite thing that I've done so far was going out with my best friend who came up to my school. We got to hang out and go out to dinner with my roommate (her twin sister and my other bff), her mom, and grandma.

[Precision screwdriver set!] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPZ3J0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=ET9F1H0BMZEE&coliid=II00LBUGANJOO) because I love to build and take apart :)

Here is a us Amazon link to the part you need to replace to fix your issue for good. I'm not sure who you would go through in Costa Rica, but at least this will let you know what the part is and what it looks like. As others have said it is a fairly easy fix.

Just make sure to get yourself a tri-wing screwdriver. Here is a set with a driver and two security bits commonly used by Nintendo. You would only need the driver to fix your 3ds though. Video tutorials of how to replace the cables are easily found online.

I'll chime in... had my kit for about 2 weeks now and will share my experience:

Tools

If you don't have some of these, I HIGHLY recommend them.

• Flush Cutters. Fantastic for snipping and trimming zip ties, and great for cutting filament. They're inexpensive at less than $5. https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Stand-off-Construction-21-Degree/dp/B00FZPDG1K/
  
• Digital Calipers. You'll use these alot. Will come useful in the construction of the printer as well. Can find a decent pair for $10-$20. If you have a harbor freight nearby, they sell some decent ones that always have a coupon.
  
• Bondhus Ball Hex Screwdrivers. I don't know people do it, but using those L shaped hex drivers are annoying and uncomfortable. Don't cheap out on these. Bondhus makes some of the best hex drivers in the business and are fairly inexpensive. https://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-10687-Balldriver-Screwdrivers-ProGuard/dp/B0006O4ADI/
  
• M3 Tap - I don't know how widespread it was, but a few people received frames where the holes were not tapped (or if they were, they were covered in powdercoat afterwards), and had screws snap inside of them. You don't want this to happen... happened to me and is a pain to fix. I didn't want to deal with customer support and wait for a new frame, so I tapped the holes myself. Even if you don't need the tap, it'll come useful for a lot of projects since a lot of stuff uses 3mm screws. https://www.amazon.com/Tonsiki-Adjustable-T-Handle-Reversible-Threading/dp/B01M4J4GWL/
  
• 3mm hardware kit - Again, you'll likely need some extra 3mm hardware if you plan on modifying the printer or adding on to it. https://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-210pcs-Stainless-Socket-Assortment/dp/B014ONCP88/
  
  Assembly isn't too hard, and the directions are pretty good. My main complaint with the directions is that sometimes they don't explain what's important and not important all the time. I spent a lot of time building, taking apart, and rebuilding the base y-axis frame because I thought I did something wrong (it wobbled) to find out that you fix that wobble as one of the last steps.
  
  The 100mm distance that you're required to thread double nuts early in the assembly is absolutely critical by the end of the build for many different reasons. It would be nice if prusa included some kind of printed spacer to make that step foolproof.
  
  Again, assembly is straightforward. I took a span of 3 days to finish mine while dedicating a few hours each night to do it.
  
  Upgrades
  
  A couple of things can be improved on the printer. The printer isn't terribly noisy, but you can make it damn near silent with a few upgrades.
  
  
• The vibration dampers mentioned previously (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1707045) work damn well to eliminate a lot of sound. I've also seen people claim that putting the printer on a concrete paver block and then putting that block on rubber feet eliminates most of the sound as well. (http://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/improvements-f14/best-usd7-buck-improvement-you-can-make-t3051.html)
  
  
• After the vibration dampers, the hotend fan becomes the loudest thing about the printer. I ended up buying a 40mm Noctua fan and printing an adapter (https://grabcad.com/library/mk2_40mm_fan_duct-1) to mate it to the extruder assembly. Now the only thing I hear is linear bearing noise. Wiring in the noctua fan isn't plug and play though. I cut off the stock fan and crimped some dupont connectors on the leads and connected the wires that way. Soldering works too.
  
  
• I don't care what you do, but find a new solution for a spool holder. The one prusa includes is terrible. Easiest solution is to print or use a pvc pipe to connect the two spool holder brackets. I went another route and printed a spool holder that used 608 skate bearings to make the spool holder buttery smooth. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1832235
  
  
• The method to mount the y-axis bearing is not great. Print these out (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1819779) and switch out the zip ties when you get a chance. No rush to do these... just something to do when you want to tinker. Look up the igus drylin bearings too... a lot swear by them.
  
  
• Also software. If you can swing the $150, I highly, highly, highly recommend simplify3d. Their slicing is second to none, and their support structures don't make a mess and require a ton of print cleanup.

My Name is Ian, or CMF Metalworks, and I am a full time Knife maker. I do carry everything pictured every day.


Item 1: UE Boom 2
https://www.amazon.com/Phantom-Wireless-Bluetooth-Waterproof-Shockproof/dp/B014M8ZO8S/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1487348943&sr=1-2&keywords=ue+boom+2

Item 2:Sony a6000 camera
https://www.amazon.com/Sony-Mirrorless-Digital-Camera-16-50mm/dp/B00I8BICB2/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1487348994&sr=1-3&keywords=sony+a6000

Item 3:Blue Loctite 242

Item 4:Leatherman Sidekick- Easily my most useful tool. https://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-Sidekick-Multi-Tool-Black-Sheath/dp/B0058EJ2ZM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1487349131&sr=8-3&keywords=leatherman+sidekick

Item 4:Spyderco Rubicon in S30v https://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-C187CFP-Rubicon-Folding-3-04-Inch/dp/B00KQ493TO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487349175&sr=8-1&keywords=spyderco+rubicon

Item 5: Spyderco Nirvana with a custom Mokuti clip i made. http://www.bladehq.com/item--Spyderco-Rassenti-Nirvana-Integral--30367

Item 6: Ares tool kit, its okay for the price, but it has some bits i use a lot so it makes the cut. https://www.amazon.com/61-Piece-Security-Extension-70010-Resistant/dp/B0192FI1Q8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487349385&sr=8-1&keywords=61-Piece+Security+Bit+Set+with+Magnetic+Extension+Bit+Holder%7C+ARES+70010%7C+Includes+Tamper+Resistant+Metric+Hex+and+Star+Bits%7C+Slotted%2C+Pozi%2C+Philips%2C+Square%2C+Spanner%2C+Metric+Hex+and+Star+Bits

Item 7: WIha Driver set. Best you can buy. https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-36291-Screwdriver-Torx-Piece/dp/B002C582AQ/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1487349443&sr=8-9&keywords=wiha+torx

Item 8: 10 weight nano oil

item 9:Krazy glue

Item 10:GO PRO hero 4 silver

Item 11: Wiha 65 piece tool kit. Its like a container of magic. https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-75965-Precision-Ratchet-65-Piece/dp/B00JQ753W8/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1487349443&sr=8-14&keywords=wiha+torx

Item 12: Godspeedtactical Hanky Godspeedtactical.com

Item 13: Macbook pro Early 2016

Item 14:GDOK EX10 inlay version Midtech Balisong

Item 15: Maxpedition Backpack http://www.bladehq.com/item--Maxpedition-Falcon-III-Backpack--32877

99% sure those are authentic. Judging by the wear on the labels, the color of the silver's plastic, the security screw type and placement are correct, and the quality of plastic looks good.

This should help you see it. A comparison of reals vs fakes for both pokemon gold and silver.

Front sides.
Back sides.

If you want to check games you buy, and if only just for the fun of opening up Nintendo products, these tools are a pretty good investment. You'll notice my fake cartridges had Y screws where as the real ones have 3.8 mm security screws. You can pick up Y1/Y0/Y00 tri wing screwdriver set at lowes/walmarts, but you probably won't be able to find the security bits. You'll notice in one of my previous comments, fakes always have black globs inside of them, typically much less pcb, and they have different button cell containers to name a few. Hope that helps!

edit: also wanted to add that you got a steal on those. Nice find :)

I have THIS torx set. I like it. I have been thinking about getting a 2nd one. You would also need a bit holder with this.

I free hand sharpen with dmt stones, but I hear good things about the Spyderco sharpmaker (be sure to get the diamond rods). I use a Flexxx strop (USA Made blades) and Bark River compound. There are a few good strop makers here on reddit too. A lot of people use nano-oil as lube. I use flouro grease and militec oil.

What torx head do AB sexbolt screws take? I know pivots are t10, but what is the latch and sexbolt screw head? ty

edit: can people recommend me some nicer drivers? Or will wiha be fine? like would this set be fine?: https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-36291-Screwdriver-Torx-Piece/dp/B002C582AQ/ref=pd_cart_crc_cko_sbs_2_1/143-1871600-7110822?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002C582AQ&pd_rd_r=47089c6f-5524-4aba-918b-d14decf66cf8&pd_rd_w=iIUwc&pd_rd_wg=J9IVc&pf_rd_p=735fc45d-5ed9-406a-92e0-8d28b9f18fe0&pf_rd_r=TSZ024WGPXYBF19WS1XA&refRID=TSZ024WGPXYBF19WS1XA&th=1

Wiha has some nice sets that will include pretty much everything you are likely to come across with electronics repairs. Everything else can be handled with the occasional use of a bit set with whatever holder is most comfortable in your hand. Here are some kits with good bit selections from iFixit and Harbor Freight for the more budget minded.

I can tell you that replacing the battery and both sticks in my Vita Slim took less than 20 minutes. You can find good quality analog sticks for only a few dollars each. I replaced mine for the same reason as your issue: one of the sticks was constantly drifting (it was my right one, not my left one.)

I got these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06Y2BXMWP/

I like them way, way more than the stock ones. The little textured rings on them make using the sticks significantly more comfortable. They feel a little tighter than the stock ones, too (in a good way.)

I've been super happy with them, and have put in dozens of hours since installing.

I used iFixit's guides (because of course I did.)

https://www.ifixit.com/Device/PS_Vita_Slim

Make sure you get a replacement battery while you're at it, too. You have to remove the battery to replace the sticks, so it's stupid to put the old one back in.

Also, I can't stress enough how important it is to have the right tools when you do this. A small spudger and proper tweezers, if nothing else, is essential. The ribbon cables are tiny and easily damaged, so having the right tool will make all the difference. Same goes for prying the outer shell open.

I have this kit, which has everything you need to open up and work on pretty much any small piece of consumer electronics you can think of. It's expensive, but totally worth the money.

https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Screwdriver-Magnetic-Professional-Electronics/dp/B0718ZM6R1/

The wiha is nice, but he needs a blade. If his routine is anything like mine, the less to cart around the better! As an aside, if OP wants a great set of high quality tools for daily repair use I can't recommend the wiha brand enough. I'd stay away from a multi-bit though, I much prefer the precision afforded by these

Skip the ruby nozzle, it's only necessary if you are printing a lot of abrasive filaments like wood, magnetic, carbon fiber, etc. Get it when (if) you need it. The stock nozzle will print PLA and PETG for ages before requiring replacement.

Same goes for the smaller nozzle, again, unless you are planning on using it right away. Smaller nozzles are great for finer details, but will typically greatly reduce your print speed, especially on really low layer heights like 0.05mm. They also really require you to have your settings, extruder and Z-height dialed in, something you're not going to be ready for right away if you're new to 3D printing.

As for tools, what comes in the box will get you by (assuming you purchased a kit, not assembled). A pair of fine-tipped tweezers is also useful. Side-cutting pliers. Also, highly recommend a proper set of ball-end hex screwdrivers instead of those God-awful hex keys.

Oh man. Yeah if I dropped just a single capacitor I wouldn't even bother looking for it. Luckily they're cheap.

Definitely get a good screw driver. You won't regret it. This is the set I have and it has saved me from a bunch of annoying situations. Probably not the best kit you can get but it's comfortable to use and has a good variety of driver tips.

Clean it up both on the outside and the inside, ensure it's in good working order (check the rivets!), and use it! You'll end up loving this keyboard. :-)

This is what you need:

• A 5.5mm nut driver to open the keyboard and check out its insides. See https://www.amazon.com/Dynamite-DYN2803-Nut-Driver-5-5mm/dp/B000BQ4XP6/
  
  
• A pre-made Soarer's Converter of the proper type. Get this one from eBay seller orihalcon: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-RJ45-to-USB-Soarers-Converter-Model-M-Terminal-Keyboard-Remapping-Macros/272766407339
  
  There's plenty of extra keys on these keyboards, and you'll want to map them according to your needs and whims. Start off with the remapping I did for mine (not that I'm tooting my own horn), which is here: https://deskthority.net/keyboards-f2/examples-of-soarer-converter-configuration-files-please-t8477.html#p390537 and don't be shy to modify it as needed.

Do you have Prime? That helps a lot.

So, looking through my recent purchases...

• Boxer Briefs : if you normally wear boxers or briefs, these things can be a game changer
  
• Suspenders : belts are weird, if you think about it. These are a moer comfortable way to hold up your pants.
  
• Flushable moist wipes : better than dry toilet paper
  
• Set of jewler's/precision screwdrivers.
  
• cut resistant kitchen gloves
  
• Dehydrated soup veggies - great for making an inpromptu soup
  

Hello again! Here was my shopping list (I am sure that there are better!) and I think that this was everything that I had in front of me when working:

For the Gameboy:

- screen and glass (and this came with screwdrivers but I bought others because it doesn't say that it does), https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-Levels-High-Light-V2-IPS-Backlight-LCD-Screen-Kit-For-Game-Boy-Advance-GBA/312745721491?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

[one regret = I should have bought a funny playing screen to support the person that came up with this mod rather than from China directly]

- screwdrivers: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01KFJK7MQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- black silicone buttons (haven't arrived yet so I cleaned my original ones with a toothbrush and isopropyl alcohol for now), https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/For-Game-Boy-GBA-Advance-Button-Silicone-Rubber-D-Pad-Conductive-AB-Select-Start/312608709452?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=611338502576&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

- black button set, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Button-set-for-Game-Boy-Advance-Nintendo-GBA-custom-mod-AGB-001-Black-ZedLabz/371907958966?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649


From this company I bought the following (but their website is down for maintenance now): www.deadpanrobot.co.uk/

- case that was pre-cut for a new IPS display (it is central in the glass screen now): Mandarin Shell For Nintendo Game Boy Advance

- 3D printed mount (useful but the screen came with two bits of plastic that would have done the job (see the video that I linked 'person that filmed the whole process')

- Model Sticker For Nintendo Game Boy Advance (just so it doesn't look empty on the back)

​

For soldering:

- solder, https://www.amazon.com/EL60-40-25-Electronic-Solder-Resin/dp/B0001P171K

- wires, https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01F8PO8OA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For cleaning connections:

- Isopropyl alcohol

- Cotton wool buds (Q-tips?)

I got this Wiha set after after destroying a few cheapo bits and couldn't be happier with it. Bonus: the box can act as a handle in a pinch

I also recommend this magnetic bit driver. It's reasonably priced, very comfortable in hand, and the magnet is very strong.

If you don't want to use a PS/2 to USB adapter, you have a couple of options. One somewhat difficult and one very easy. For both, you'll need to open up the keyboard with a tool like this.

The more difficult way is to use Soarer's Converter software running on a Teensy 2.0. This involves soldering the Teensy to the appropriate pins on the Model M's original controller and flashing the Soarer's Converter software to the Teensy.

I did this with an IBM Model F (AT) and it works great: https://imgur.com/a/ge80k

The easiest option is to purchase a replacement controller from Phosphor Glow. For this, you'll open up the keyboard, remove the original controller and put the new one in. No soldering involved unless you opt for the kit instead of the fully assembled and ready to go board.

I did this on one of my Model M keyboards: https://imgur.com/a/NY78q

I have that set and I think I paid $20 back in ancient times. It is excellent and I use it all the time. That said, it is NOT for building a PC. So I both recomend getting it and recomend getting something else to go along with it to do your build.

I also own this set of Craftsman screwdrivers. I bought them in 1991, have used them constantly since, including yesterday while building some Ikea stuff. The handles are "old school" but...Im old so...

A pretty decent and inexpensive "modern" alternative is here. Bonus - color match for the small ones.

Seriously, I love the small ones so much I am buying another set since they are on sale. Tiny screwdrivers are one of those things you dont need until you really need and then there is no replacement.

EDIT: I sit corrected. I actually HAVE used these in a PC build - I used the largest of the phillips head to screw an SSD into a 2.5 to 3.5 mounting kit. SSD screws are tiny and you dont want to torque them too much or you can crack the case.

Regular bits are angled. Gunsmithing bits are square. If you use regular bits your screw heads will certainly show damage. You most certainly need proper fitting hollow ground bits to do the job right.

Field stripping an M1 Garand does not require any tools. But what you're attempting to do does.

My buddy asked me for my recommendation last year and I told him this: it's more important you have the correct sized bits vs high quality bits. If you can afford both, great! But most of us have a budget so go with a set with a large variety of sizes. Remember, both the width and depth are equally important. A bit that is too wide will open the ends of a head like an opposing set of parentheses. A bit that is too narrow round out the top like opposing lower-case r's.

He ended up buying:
Wheeler 89-Piece Deluxe Gunsmithing Screwdriver Set, Black/Yellow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001C63M7O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uwzdBbY5REFM0

And of course, you need to steady the rifle so be sure to have a cleaning rest. Mine is cheap but it works great:
Tipton Gun Butler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0036FFQAU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NyzdBbR86YV6Z

It is a pretty standard size for RBA's that use Phillips head screws (Allen heads of different sizes are becoming more and more popular as well, but all RBA's that use Allen heads come with a matching wrench (except for Innokin's Axiom afaik)). Just get a precision screwdriver set (example), any decent set includes a couple of small Phillips head screwdrivers. As far as the Subtank RBA section goes, I use my old Subtank Mini exclusively with the RBA (V1 without the side screw). Easy to build and wick, a good starting point to try out rebuilding, and no more money spent on coil heads. My guess is it's the same for the RBA plus, but YMMV.

I've used these in the past with great success. You can hammer and glue them in as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Moody-Tools-58-0670-Extractor-Reversible/dp/B000JCT3W0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492731155&sr=8-1&keywords=precision+screw+extractor

Klein and Milwaukee both make good hand tools. Not sure which will be available down under.

I have the Milwaukee and mostly love it. Bits are a little annoying to get out of the handle, but I can replace them with any old 3 1/2" bit when they wear out (or to customize). That's harder with the proprietary Klein bits. The non-ratcheting version you can push the bits out through the top by inserting the old bit in the bottom, so swapping bits is much easier. Also it's magnetic, which the Klein is not.

I thought the ratcheting 11-in-1 would be super hokey and cheap when I bought my first one, but it and my lenox box cutter are the only 2 tools that I actually carry in my pants all day every day. In my opinion 30 of the best dollars you can spend on something you'll use every day.

(not a product recommendation but just a note for people coming afterwards, if you can get this on sale, probably elsewhere than Amazon, it might be worth it)

I got this Xiaomi Wiha set and it's been disassembling multiple laptops fine :)

I highly recommend the Wiha 77790 Ultra Driver Multi Tool. Be sure to read the comparison chart to understand the different bit combinations available. I use the Tradesman model.

If you need something a little smaller consider the Wiha 75093 16 Piece System 4 ESD Slotted, Phillips and Torx Micro Bit Set either on its own or in addition.

If you’re looking for a good set of precision drivers I recently acquired the Xiaomi Wiha Precision Screwdriver Set, 24 Magnetic Driver Bit Set, Pocket Screwdriver Tool Set, Mini Screwdriver Kit, Repair Tool Kit for Electronics and am very pleased with them. If you’re willing to wait and run the risk of receiving a counterfeit product, you can also find this set (as I did) on Ali Express for a few less dollars.

FWIW I carried pocket knives on the NYC Subways for over 20 years without once attracting attention.

Felo makes an amazing hex fit holder screw driver. I picked one up for 9.00 as an amazon warehouse deal. If you have never had agood one of these you are in for a surprise, the bit wobble is almost imperceptible. I have 3 sets of wera drivers but would encourage you to get this first:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000E62NHS/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I finally got around to doing this as well. So far, it's worked rather well. Thank you so much for the suggestion!

Edit: I needed a tri-wing screwdriver. I kept seeing them for $4-5 USD, but then found this nice little kit on Amazon. Really happy with it, because I do a lot of work with electronics.

Nah, not going to find that in one kit unless you get Wiha's 50 piece master set.

What I've found is that buying drivers individually is often not much more expensive than buying sets, and may be cheaper if it avoids buying unneeded or duplicate drivers.

I myself have the basic drivers (PH, slotted, t10+ torx) wera and felo drivers, and use 3" bits for the more obscure stuff. I particularly like using this wera bit holding handle with 3" bits. Handles like a regular small screwdriver.

I usually buy my individual drivers from KCToolco, their search tools makes it easy to find all the different sizes you need. You can usually find them a bit cheaper on Amazon if you find all the part numbers elsewhere.

I bought this set of phillips bits, and have found them extremely useful for electronics work. Many modern electronics are assembled with screws that have PH2 heads, but are too narrow for a normal PH2 driver to fit. The set of bits I linked above includes some that are basically PH2 size but narrowed down. Really makes a big difference on preventing stripped heads.

You want drivers that fit the screw. Improper fit will mess up the screw slot or lead to slippage. Hollow Ground is usually best or a Parallel grind, not a chisel point.

These Wheeler Kits are generally pretty good for what they are.

If you hate money you can look at Starrett, Wera, Wiha, PB Swiss..

The tool that you can get from makerbeam fits (barely). You might have better luck looking for a similar type of thing rather than just the socket. Maybe something like this:

Dynamite Nut Driver: 5.5mm, DYN2803 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQ4XP6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KZO4DbQGA03X5

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NPZ3J0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is what I've used for a good number of my TFs, and it covers almost anything. A pin punch is a good idea as well.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FZ5DSWC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_befwDb2W9WP1E

Found this during a trip to Taipei. It's a cute little EDC set I keep in my pack that I thought some might find interesting. It's very thin and lightweight, while being good quality.

It was cheaper in Taiwan ($15 USD) but even at amazon price it's not bad I think.

Buy this:

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-External-Aluminum-Enclosure/dp/B00E362W9O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484077336&sr=8-1&keywords=laptop+hard+drive+enclosure

and

https://www.amazon.com/Jakemy-Precision-Screwdriver-Electronics-Appliances/dp/B019ZSK57K/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1484077395&sr=8-9&keywords=screwdriver+set+small

Here is an altnerative to the case:

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_7?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1484077470&sr=1-7&keywords=laptop+hard+drive

In all likleyhood the hard drive has gone bad.

They do that you know.

You want a laptop 2.5 inch hard drive. SATA is really the only choice for interface these days.

Now would be a great time to move up to an SSD. I have a laptop at home that is a bunch of years old. I put an SSD in it last year and it really added a lot of zip to it.

When you put the OS on it you can go ahead and put W8.1 on it, but the Free W10 upgrade is still running if you know where to get it from:

https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/accessibility/windows10upgrade

What you would do is install 8.1 from the disks you have. Get the internet up, go to the desktop, don't bother with any updates (huge waste of time if you are just gonna follow through with W10) and go to that site I posted and follow there instructions.

Bonus points! Once you successfully do a W10 upgrade from W8 there is no more Windows key to worry about! Any future OS reinstall on this laptop Microsoft uses a unique identifier in the BIOS to do the validation.

Don't know if they will last a lifetime, but these are awesome. A must have if you disassemble and tinker with knives frequently: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002C582AQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

How much can you afford to spend?
You can get a basic set for pretty cheap like this, or this to get you started and upgrade as you deem necessary.

It's going to end up costing you a lot more buying screwdrivers individually.

FWIW - the "Wera Kraftform Plus 334/6 Screwdriver Set with Rack and Lasertip, 6-Pieces" are awesome. I bought some for my wife around black Friday. I paid $23.81 - they are currently $24.25 which is the second lowest price I have ever seen. They are amazing.
link to product

Pentalobe drivers. Spudgers. Hell, half of ifixit's catalog.

The PTT is a little outside your budget but has literally everything he'll ever need. If you gotta keep to the budget, I'd get this and this.

Not an ifixit shill and they are certainly not the level best quality out there (but definitely better than your ebay or harbor freight gear) it's more about a convenient assortment of tools that will cover a wide variety of situations for a reasonable price.

I am a Wiha tool man myself, and my screwdriver sets alone have run me several hundred dollars, but I consider that worth it.

you could try a screw extractor. I am not familiar with the spyderco deleca 4 knife, but based on googling reviews it seems like it would withstand a fair amount of pressure.
Try something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/58-0670-6-Piece-Extractor-Reversible-Driver/dp/B000JCT3W0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1342137683&sr=8-2&keywords=screw+extractor+set

Here is my mini-review of the light. I got the light from Amazon for ~19$ with free shipping. The light comes with a AA battery and lanyard. I ditched the lanyard. The light also comes with an attached pocket clip (more on this later).

This light is as bright as my 3xAAA Costco TechLite Lumen Master and much smaller. To access the modes you click the light once to turn it on, then tap the cap to cycle through the Hi-Low-Strobe modes. You can also do this by quickly turning the light on and off.

Originally I got this light for one purpose.. to use it in the Fenix Headband system ala Nutnfancy. I thought I would save some money by not having to spend 40$ on the Quark Mini AA. I was wrong. The first problem was the pocket clip. It was getting in the way of the headband's flashlight holder. The clip is screwed in by triangle screws. To get the clip off I had to buy the triangle screwdriver from Amazon. Then afterwards I found out even with the pocket clip off this flashlight is too thick for the Fenix Headband (if you take the pocket clip off there are 2 holes where the screws fit that expose the innards because the flashlight as a whole did not fit the Fenix Headband I have the clip back on I might look in to some small "O" ring for more water resistance). Even though it will not be useable for what I originally intended. I still like the light enough to use it as my EDC light.

TLDR: This light will not work in a Fenix Headband, otherwise great EDC.

Not sure of the size you need, but here is a set of triangle hand drivers on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Silverhill-Tools-ATKTR4-Screwdriver-Replacement/dp/B004IUEHYS

My laptop bag:

• 5 1m Cat5e cables
  
• 2 9m flat cat5e cables
  
• 1 1m Twinax (Cisco SFP-H10GB-CU1M)
  
• 1 5m Twinax (Cisco SFP-H10GB-CU5M)
  
• Fiber Loopback Plug Kit 1 2 3
  
• Non-Duplexed OM3 50/125 5m patch (Non duplexed lets you adjust for bad or crossed fibers in a hurry)
  
• USB stick with some tools on it
  
• Streamlight 88052 ProTac (can steal power from any USB)
  
• Best Screwdrivers on earth.
  
• Gerber Diesel Multitool
  
• 2x USB serial adapters
  
• 2x cisco specced Serial/Console cables
  
• 1x passthrough serial cable (Some companies gotta be smart asses...)
  
• 1x rollover/crossover serial cable (see above...)
  
• A spool of velcro
  
• Highly specced (i7/1tb ssd/32gb ram) Dell Rugged 14 inch laptop, plus power supply, and extension battery.
  
• USB chargers
  
• XD-S 45
  
• General Girl stuff. (AKA, if you don't know about it, you're better off not askin'.)
  
• (ETA) My keychain carries a 256gb corsair survivor stealth memory stick. Handy.
  
  It's pretty clear I primarily work in server rooms and datacenters :P

I use this one and it works perfectly fine for knife servicing (for me).

> I was thinking of buying an eye glass repair kit but wasn't sure it would fit. I was thinking perhaps you guys knew of where to get one on line that would work for sure.

I use something similar to this but it came with a bit more and I got it at Lowes, but that's just to give you an idea.

edit

Actually I have something EXACTLY like this

ProTip: A set of Bondhus hex drivers changed my life. I haven't ruined a printer screw in months.

These wrenches are the best there is:

Bondhus 20399 Ball End L-Wrench Double Pack with BriteGuard and GoldGuard Finish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00132CGTW

And drivers:

Bondhus 10687 Set of 7 Balldriver... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006O4ADI

You can save yourself future headache and buy something like this. They're available from other sources. I think I paid $6 at Harbor Freight for mine.

I've got my notes on recommended tools & first-aid kit here. Proper tools for swapping nozzles are important to avoid inadvertent damage (although it's not a scary process).

• You do not need a spatula and half the stuff sold in "3D printing starter kits".
  
• You do not need any of the exotic bed prep stuff.
  
• Bondhus or equivalent ball drivers are very useful. You really only need the 2.5mm. Makes removing and reassembling parts much easier.
  
  Which sock & which nozzles? The TriangleLab nozzles are good. The others are OK in a pinch, but I've seen reports of them shearing off at high temps.
  
  Read up on clearing jams. The 1st one can be scary, but they're no big deal if you're prepared.
  
  Have fun with it!
  

Have one of those sets in our shop.

We also have 2 of these sets linked below as well. I have been very pleased with them. If you ever need more in the future, which you will.

Wheeler 89-Piece Deluxe Gunsmithing Screwdriver Set, Black/Yellow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001C63M7O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CgGXBbQQ0FYA4

something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/Triangle-Screwdriver-Electronic-McDonalds-Disassemble/dp/B07H3S81D4

​

if so, try googling first, and to really get help, you need to add a picture.

​

EDIT: here's another one....

https://www.amazon.com/Silverhill-Tools-ATKTR4-Screwdriver-Replacement/dp/B004IUEHYS

for some home diy i would say Xiaomi Wiha screwdriver set is surprisingly good https://www.amazon.com/Xiaomi-Precision-Screwdriver-Magnetic-Electronics/dp/B07FZ5DSWC

Try this one from Snap-On.

Or, you can check out this one. It's by the folks who make the Snap-On model.

This one is pretty good, too.

Make sure you buy quality bits, too. A great driver with crappy bits nets a crappy time repairing anything.

Interesting that looks exactly like this one but... Asus.

This is my favorite electronics screwdriver set. Worth the small investment for a lifetime of being able to open almost anything.

https://www.amazon.com/JACKLY-Professional-Screwdriver-Extension-Maintenance/dp/B005JRTAYG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481400956&sr=8-1&keywords=jackly

Still better than flat head screws. This and This both have that bit, both are easy to obtain.

I've used both of these cheaper kits by ORIA and they've been fantastic! Not sure about UK availability, but might be worth a look.

https://www.amazon.com/ORIA-Screwdriver-Professional-Precision-Smartphone/dp/B01E16J6RQ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1536259932&sr=8-6&keywords=screwdriver+kit

https://www.amazon.com/ORIA-Screwdriver-Professional-Precision-Cellphone/dp/B01IVKPTP6/ref=sr_1_21?ie=UTF8&qid=1536259932&sr=8-21&keywords=screwdriver+kit

These are awesome:

https://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-10687-Balldriver-Screwdrivers-ProGuard/dp/B0006O4ADI/ref=lp_2586173011_1_5?srs=2586173011&ie=UTF8&qid=1519931637&sr=8-5

These are great Bondhus 10687 Set of 7 Balldriver... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006O4ADI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Wiha 26199 screwdriver set is amazing. It's not very much money and I use it all the time.

Amazon link

Yet another recommend for Wiha. I prefer their precision drivers like these.

Here is the non-mobile link from the comment above
***
This bot is supported by the referral link above. If you wish to not use a referral link, you may use this link instead.

Hey, just wanted to add an update to this in case anyone else runs into the same problem I have. I was almost to the point where I was going to take a drill to the chromebook! :O

Luckily I found Moody Tools Precision Screw Extractor on Amazon.

They worked like a charm and the stripped screws were out in just a few minutes!

I dunno about the Bahco, but the Williams you listed is supposedly the same as the Snap-On I have. I was thoroughly unimpressed with it. If you go that route you might as well grab a Milwaukee ore Klein for $15-20. http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-48-22-2302P-Ratcheting-Driver-Compact/dp/B017PPK4NA/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457472542&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=milwaukee+ratchering+screwdriver or http://www.amazon.com/Klein-32558-Ratcheting-Multi-Bit-Screwdriver/dp/B005FQDHBI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457472613&sr=8-1&keywords=klein+ratcheting+screwdriver

Go with the Klein because is Made in Merica, or go with the Milwaukee cuz it comes with a free stubby.

Ok depends on they type of Barrel. If it is is a standard german barrel with screws protruding I would recommend this tool:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0052XQYVO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1.
It is very good at grabbing the sides of exposed screws.

If the screw is flush with the service you might have luck with these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JCT3W0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
you have to be able to put a lot of pressure on the screw head so make sure it is resting level on the desk.

Actually, not that this matters but he is using THIS kit. I have used them at work and they are very good for the price point, but are much flimsier than the iFixit driver and tend to fall apart after about 6 months of regular use.

After watching the rest of the video it seems like it is a bit, although not in a haha way but more in a "we gave an ingnorant person tools and no instructions" way.

Looking at your screwdriver, it doesn't appear to have a hardened tip. A high-quality, hardened tip electronics screwdriver will take care of it. Here's an example.

The screwdriver in the picture does not follow the standard, it's special

If you want a large selection of bits, you need to go with with the standard. The current standard is 1/4 inch hex

Here are some examples

http://www.amazon.com/Felo-0715732348-4-Inch-Holder-Screwdriver/dp/B000E62NHS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451609355&sr=8-1&keywords=1%2F4+hex+screwdriver

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-100-Piece-Security-Bits-Storage/dp/B000O5XDOG/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1451609394&sr=8-6&keywords=screwdriver+bit+set

Sure, it's this set: Moody Tools 58-0670 6-Piece Slot/Phil/Screw Extractor Combo Reversible Driver Set. I only ended up needing the driver, but I am sure the extractors will come in handy at some point.

it doesn't help that the standard flat head or phillips is designed to strip the shit out of it, that's why I got this

If you’re going to be opening up laptops, might as well invest in quality tools.
$21 “iFixit” kit.

I don’t know what your laptop needs, but I’m
99% sure that this’ll have what you need and then some.

Amazon Link

I have these:

https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-89-Piece-Deluxe-Gunsmithing-Screwdriver/dp/B001C63M7O/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1525651391&sr=8-4&keywords=wheeler+gunsmith+tools

and

https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Hammer-Punch-Plastic-Case/dp/B004SY07HU/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1525651391&sr=8-5&keywords=wheeler+gunsmith+tools

When it comes to getting screw bits (if you're piecing together a set) it's important to make sure you get hollow grind bits as not to damage the screw heads.

This set has covered me really well for everything so far.

Xiaomi Wiha Precision Screwdriver Set, 24 Magnetic Driver Bit Set, Pocket Screwdriver Tool Set, Mini Screwdriver Kit, Repair Tool Kit for Electronics https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FZ5DSWC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_58BVDbAVXE9PX

I was looking at the same thing a while back and decided to go with this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000E62NHS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482345479&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=Felo+screwdriver+bit+holder (actually I got the insulated one because it was cheaper and I do alot of electrical work. Also picked up https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009YKI1ZS/ref=pd_aw_sim_469_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Q02CJ9RCVJJ4KKYCEWE6 for small storage of bits.

I would say atleast buy a high quality (I went with Wera Laser Tip) Philips and Flat Head, or whatever you use the most. They make a world of difference and are much better for daily use.

Wera Screwdriver Set - Nice screwdrivers, don't often see these on sale.

Here is a hand set that way you don't have to buy a drill.

The only real way to tell is to open it up with a screwdriver with the matching grooves.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01KFJK7MQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502497856&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=super+nintendo+screwdriver&dpPl=1&dpID=41w9ePmi6eL&ref=plSrch

If you're a snes game collector, one of these is practically a necessity.

Then just look up the chip online to match.

Hope yours is real op

If you don’t care about name brands, same stuff for $23

I don't have a specific set to recommend, but one thing to keep in mind is 90+% of gun screws are flatheads, and that can be an under represented form in generic screwdriver kits.

Like I said before, it's very important that the blade fit tightly in the screw.

Take a look at THIS set (zoom in on the picture). It is an expensive set, but notice that it has a LOT of flatheads and almost no hex or phillips bits...that's the main difference in a "gunsmith" set and a generic screwdriver set.

http://www.amazon.com/Wiha-36291-Screwdriver-Torx-Piece/dp/B002C582AQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417819439&sr=8-1&keywords=wiha+36291

Just above your price range. Really nice though.

I'm going through the same journey right now. Here are a few of the things I picked up. The first 3 are the actual soldering equipment/materials you will need. The fourth is a good electronic screwdriver set and tweezers (not required but useful).

https://smile.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1520432768&sr=8-4&keywords=Weller

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B072WN1DMG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0777LMVTT/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B019ZSK57K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KFJK7MQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This one has served me well since mid 2017. No issues with it, comes with a cute little bag and a couple of peripherals.

https://smile.amazon.com/Screwdriver-Precision-Magnetic-Opening-Tweezer/dp/B019ZSK57K

$9 kit includes two triwing bits and pry tools.

as far as dismantling goes, the switch seems to be the easiest one in recent time.

This has just about everything you need for small electronic repair. I just checked mine and there seems to be a square bit that may fit.

ORIA Precision Screwdriver Kit, 76 in 1 with 56 Bits Repair Tool Kit for Cellphone, Game Console, Tablet and Other Devices, Blue
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IVKPTP6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_f0CsDbWNH96T6

Edit: but/bit

I bet THIS would help.

https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/PlayStation+4+Power+Supply+Replacement/24719

Philips #1 and TR9 Torx

You should be able to get a kit that has a bunch of standard screw bits from Lowes, Home Depot, or Walmart. Amazon has precision screwdriver kits with other tools for common tech repairs. I have this one and it works well.

Just so you guys know, this (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004IUEHYS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) does NOT work. Someone suggested it in a thread for me; even the smallest screwdriver is too big.

You're right about the Kidney Puncher kit, but I'm not sure if OP knows. The Kidney Puncher kit comes with those screws as HEX screws, NOT the triangle screws, so it's much easier to find better tools to use on it. The triangle screws are the Mutation X v2's Achilles Heel, and I look forward to finally buying the Kidney Puncher kit.

Get an extractor kit, something like this or this.

a good screwdriver set intended to fit firearms fasteners saves loads of damage to fasteners
https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-89-Piece-Deluxe-Gunsmithing-Screwdriver/dp/B001C63M7O/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1527255716&sr=8-5&keywords=gunsmithing+tools

ORIA Screwdriver Set, Magnetic Driver Kit, Professional Repair Tool Kit, 76-in-1 Precision Screwdriver Kit with Portable Bag, Flexible Shaft, for iPhone 8, 8 Plus/ Cellphone/ Game Console/ Tablet/ PC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IVKPTP6/

We buy the techs these:
https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-26199-Slotted-Phillips-Screwdriver/dp/B000NZ5QG0/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1480694593&sr=8-12&keywords=wiha+screwdriver

In a couple set variations - also one of these

https://www.amazon.com/Megapro-151NAS-Original-Driver-Yellow/dp/B004VJY0ZM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480694651&sr=8-1&keywords=megapro+screwdriver

Also a USB 3.0 portable drive, usb drive adapters, and some thumb drives

Everything else they fill their own bag with from the office supply. Ethernet cables, CAT6 ends, velcro, etc

We have a Brady Labeler and various other tools they can take as needed for site work as well.

I've used the ifixit kits and have been really underwhelmed personally.

Hmm, maybe invest in a kit like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0718ZM6R1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wdTvDb69G7GWN. Not sure if they have specifically what would help, but they might.

You'll want a screwdriver kit like this and a small phillips head. Don't clean it in the shell.

After using brasso, wash the pins (using a q-tip) with 90% alcohol. Brasso is an abrasive and solvent so leaving it will slowly eat the pins if you leave it on their too long.

I bought this kit on amazon when I was taking apart my laptop a couple years ago because I needed a torx screwdriver. Since then it's served me well for watercooling.

E.Durable Security Screwdriver... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KFJK7MQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Wiha 26194 Screwdriver Set. Highly recommended.

My buddy has this set its kinda pricy but its worth it, i use his all the time to work on my 500

After trying the Home Depot Husky brand, I bit the bullet and bought a Wiha set. The difference is huge.

https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-36291-Screwdriver-Torx-Piece/dp/B002C582AQ

About $25 depending on price fluctuation.

HERE
Please use the search function. Found this in 2 min. Not 4$ btw :D

aw man.. yeah it's really tough to extract stripped screws.. don't give up just yet though, there are extraction kits out there, even for tiny screws like this or this

Get these. They're made by Wiha, arguably the best manufacturer of Torx drivers, and it includes a T6, T7, T8, T9, T10, & T15. That set should cover you for just about every knife out there, though I think some manufactures use T12 screws some times, so be wary of that.

Found this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004IUEHYS/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687582&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B001F3FUBK&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1R80WTBY18X5ABCZH8JT

not sure if any of em will fit though.

You'll need to use something like this. http://screwremover.com/Pages/grabitMicro.php You may want to measure the screw to see if these are small enough.

EDIT: Amazon has another company if you search for "grabit micro" The additional photos showed a person who had to remove stripped screws from an Apple notebook/cellphone. http://www.amazon.com/Moody-Tools-58-0670-Extractor-Reversible/dp/B000JCT3W0/ref=sr_1_6

Nice! Right now i'm borrowing an adapter from my computer class teacher while mine comes in. it has been probably a month since i ordered it, but i still have to wait until the 28th of January. I you want to open it, i suggest you get one of [these] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQ4XP6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00) because the hole to get to the screw on it is very narrow. also denture tabbing your key caps is so worth it for the minimal effort.

Most tradesmen and professional IT/HVAC use Klein

http://www.amazon.com/Klein-32558-Ratcheting-Multi-Bit-Screwdriver/dp/B005FQDHBI/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1397925731&sr=8-7&keywords=klein+11+in+1

I also own the snap on one spoken of. It's a little on the bulky side for computer work. But - I have had it 10+ years and still going strong.

Snap on also has a small electric screwdriver that is incredible! Batteries suck to replace on it though. (Or I would say BIFL)

I'd give this one a shot. https://www.amazon.com/Moody-Tools-58-0670-Extractor-Reversible/dp/B000JCT3W0/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=MOODY+screw+extractor&qid=1555039644&s=gateway&sr=8-4

​

That's how I removed the motherboard of my MBP. I stripped the heads of at least 6 motherboard screws, pretty much ground them to a cone with my regular phillips drivers. These ones took a bit of patience and finger skills, but got everything out.

Snap on is a ripoff for 99.9% of the stuff they sell.

$175 for a 7 piece Snap-On screwdriver set

OR

$30 for a 17 piece Craftsman screwdriver set

Xiaomi Wiha Precision Screwdriver Set, 24 Magnetic Driver Bit Set, Pocket Screwdriver Tool Set, Mini Screwdriver Kit, Repair Tool Kit for Electronics https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FZ5DSWC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sidhDb86FDMNJ

All the green stuff is Wera brand.
Here's the Zyklop Ratchet
Here's the ratcheting driver
Here's the Lasertip screwdriver set

can ibuy this one instead? since its a Little lesser and should be the same type?

80 in 1 Precision Screwdriver Set with Magnetic Driver Kit, Professional Electronics Repair Tool Kit with Portable Oxford Bag for Repair Cell Phone, iPhone, iPad, Watch, Tablet, PC, MacBook and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0718ZM6R1/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_apa_lYOYBbBBN58ZQ

$70 is pretty expensive for the tools listed. You can cut the cost by nearly half if you just go on Amazon and look for a phone repair kit, (I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0718ZM6R1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i8BIAbZ106DHH )

This includes most of what you'll need, the only thing missing is a source of heat and soldering iron.


For heat you can use a heat gun (low setting, these can get really hot!) or even a hair dryer/hand warmers will do in a pitch, although it will probably take longer.

Thanks for this, Im already worried about one controller failing, I'll definitely grab another set and see if I can't repair these for a backup.

The tech saw the realtree camo and said, eh... not today Bubba... not today.

Honestly though, go to Amazon, look for HP model # replacement screen.

Buy a 19.99 dollar laptop repair tool kit. https://smile.amazon.com/XOOL-Precision-Magnetic-Professional-Electronics/dp/B0718ZM6R1/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1CMJEN7VSCGBV&keywords=laptop+repair+tool+kit&qid=1572397935&sprefix=laptop+rep%2Caps%2C268&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyQ1BETU9PUFNEMEdMJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDAyMzI0MzRDMUozTFdLT1U4UyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzg5MTQ3MTJIRzcyUDVFS0NJViZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Do it yourself.

Total cost is gonna be around 60 to 100 bucks, with screen and tools.

you need a swiss army knife and a set of tweezers. ^^^/s

yes but if it isn't magnetic you are in for a bad time my friend.

I use this set

Wheeler Engineering 89-Piece Deluxe Gunsmithing Screwdriver Set with Durable Construction and Storage Case for Gunsmithing and Maintenance https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001C63M7O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0pOVCbPFA4BTT

Triangle screwdriver thingy

I just got a cheap one on amazon, but if you pull stuff apart frequently, you may want to pay the ~$20 for a set of tech bits

XOOL 80 in 1 Precision Set with Magnetic Driver Kit, Professional Electronics Repair Tool Kit with Portable Oxford Bag for Repair Cell Phone, iPhone, iPad, Watch, Tablet, PC, MacBook https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0718ZM6R1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cNpHDbZ0J0BZQ

Wiha 92191 Precision Screwdrivers 51 Pcs Master Set in Storage Tray

https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-92191-Precision-Screwdrivers-Storage/dp/B0098RB3SY

Bondhus https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006O4ADI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_FI6FAbEXJCK2D

Bondhus makes a set that's basically identical to these snap-on ones.

https://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-10687-Balldriver-Screwdrivers-ProGuard/dp/B0006O4ADI

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006O4ADI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then print this.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2670661

They don't?

Moody Tools 58-0670, or in silver.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ontel-Speed-Out-Speed-Out-Screw-Extractor-4-Piece-1000264/205110987

https://www.amazon.ca/58-0670-6-Piece-Extractor-Reversible-Driver/dp/B000JCT3W0

http://www.amazon.com/Moody-Tools-58-0670-Extractor-Reversible/dp/B000JCT3W0

https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-26199-Slotted-Phillips-Screwdriver/dp/B000NZ5QG0

http://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-89-Piece-Deluxe-Gunsmithing-Screwdriver/dp/B001C63M7O

www.amazon.com/Wiha-36291-Screwdriver-Torx-Piece/dp/B002C582AQ/

Here you go

I don't know the exact size or if it's even in THIS set, but that's what would work.

http://www.amazon.com/Silverhill-Tools-ATKTR4-Triangle-Screwdriver/dp/B004IUEHYS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417441458&sr=8-1&keywords=triangle+bit

Perhaps one of these might work.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004IUEHYS?qid=1417550431&sr=8-1&vs=1


Someone in one of the reviews said it works for the mxv2

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005FQDHBI/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8

> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IVKPTP6 More tools than you'll ever need

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KFJK7MQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6Ys8CbJZJQEN8

> https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1612395066/nintendo-switch-replacement-shell-atomic-purple/rewards

This?

I use this for almost everything: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0718ZM6R1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ke6RCbBTP6KWJ

Is that driver set the same as this one?

Not a fan of wera? They're on sale right now.

Wera Kraftform Plus 334/6 Screwdriver Set with Rack and Lasertip, 6-Pieces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001NQQCM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_SPIgAb7NGZBMK

This is another great inexpensive option for a torx driver set: https://www.amazon.com/Jakemy-Precision-Screwdriver-Electronic-Extension/dp/B019ZSK57K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497285185&sr=8-1&keywords=torx+set+jakemy

I use this very frequently with no problems. Also has a lot of harder to find bit sizes (smaller bits).

Not sure what the difference is, but this one has a 15% instant coupon

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019ZSK57K/ref=dp_cerb_1

Use a screw driver that won't slip and strip the head of the screw, like this: http://www.amazon.com/Wiha-26194-Screwdriver-Phillips-Precision/dp/B000NZ5QGK?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02

These cheap ones, forget it

If you're going for the cheap hex key + JB weld route check out your local hardware store.

Cheapish screw extractor set to try: https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Precision-Screw-Extractor-Set/IF145-118-1 or https://www.amazon.com/Moody-Tools-58-0670-Extractor-Reversible/dp/B000JCT3W0; reviews are mixed on these though.

For power tools, there are a couple of different options:

• Dremel / rotary tool: your best bet is probably to get a very small diamond burr kit and slowly mill a slot into the screw head that a flat-head driver could catch. A cutting wheel could also do this but you'd definitely damage things around the screw. Amazon sells these, as would your local hardware store.
  
• Drill: I'm not sure if they make small-enough left-handed bits for this, but that's normally what you'd use to get out stripped screws. Barring that, you can drill straight through the screw (which will damage the standoff; get ready to use epoxy or VHB to secure the replacement part in place), Again, hardware store or Amazon.

Screen: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MCVPO9Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_9QJWDbYMTVHP6

Tools:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0718ZM6R1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_ETJWDb4BP4WG1

I'm sorry, I can't find the lens anywhere.

Lots of choices for normal sized screw extractors. For the really small ones, give this set a try. (available from other vendors incl brick'n'mortar places).

https://www.amazon.com/JACKLY-Professional-Screwdriver-Extension-Maintenance/dp/B005JRTAYG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1469929655&sr=8-2&keywords=jk+6089

this is what i use, have never had to bought another screw driver after getting this one. It works for literally anything and wont break.

For future situations you could keep a set of 'left handed' drill bits, these bits cut by spinning counterclockwise, giving the screw a chance to come loose. But really you should have a screw extractor, ones this small are hard to come by (#0 or #00) but they do exist:

http://www.amazon.com/Moody-Tools-58-0670-Extractor-Reversible/dp/B000JCT3W0/

Screwdrivers

You could also just buy stndard hex grub screws and replace the triangles.

Bro... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0718ZM6R1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_n.PyDbEWT98RR

I use this for work and it's pure gold.

You're setting yourself up for a fire or you could spend 20 bucks and get a toolkit.

These are my go to's. I've used some of the Dynamite tools but have been let down everytime. They seem to strip out if you look at them wrong.

Bondhus Hex Drivers: Metric & Imperial

[Hobbico Wire Cutter/Strippers] (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHVR9&P=FR&gclid=Cj0KEQiAqemzBRDh2vGKmMnqoegBEiQAqJPuyOyjP9p9BZBrlzU_EWEcAqQWw2SLmEXwzQfVVEKWkq4aAt828P8HAQ)

[Hobbico Secure Grip Pliers] (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJSP3&P=0)

[ProTek Body Reamer] (http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-trucks/protek-rc-trutorque-body-reamer-ptk-8203/p212259)

For those rare phillips screws: [Craftsman Screwdriver Kit] (http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-41-pc-screwdriver-set/p-00931798000P?sid=IDxCMDFx20140801x001&KPID=00931798000)

I've used this website to confirm that my N64 carts are real.
Check this out!
http://jackblackregion4.blogspot.com/search/?q=super+smash

From what I've seen so far all of my carts have the gold nintendo logo on the board. The pictures you have don't! I'm sure its a fake.

I would also suggest having this in handy to double check your cart is real, Especially since n64 flash carts are being sold now.
https://www.amazon.com/Durable-3-8mm-Screwdriver-Cartridges-Nintendo-64/dp/B01KFJK7MQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1509764303&sr=8-3&keywords=cartridge+bit

For future reference, part sizes are listed in the hardware guide, which can be found in the question thread, but the size screws you need are here. The hardware guide links tow 3/16 but lists 1/8 (which is the correct size) so use the 1/8 I linked.

As far as tools, Sneakerhead is correct, pivots are t8 and body screws are t6. You may need 2 t6's (one to hold the other side while screwing in). You can also get a set. I've linked Wiha drivers which will last you, but you can go with whatever brand you prefer