(Part 3) Reddit mentions: The best oils & fluids

The Internet is your friend! I can't imagine the magnitudes of higher difficulty generations before us faced. These days, you can Google "oil change DIY <insert year/make/model of your car>" and you will get endless write-ups from forums that specialize in your car, YouTube videos, dedicated personal sites, etc. I definitely know it seems complex, but if you are even the slightest bit technical-minded and can visualize things, you'll very quickly realize that you can probably take apart almost anything you see under the hood and be able to put it back together. Just be careful, take pictures of things before you disassemble, and buy plenty of magnetic trays ($2-3 from Harbor Freight) to keep track of nuts and bolts. Fortunately, there are plenty of maintenance things you can start with that you can't really break, like changing your engine air filter.

Doing an oil change is probably the next simplest thing you can do. In short, safety first, learn how to jack up your car and put it on jack stands, or just buy Rhino Ramps for $40, undo the drain plug, drain the oil into a big pan, put the bolt back in with a new crush washer, find and remove the filter, sometimes it's one metal thing and other times it's a plastic thing with a filter inside of it, then put the new one back on, then pour in x quarts or liters of oil back up top. Your first few times will take an hour or two and will likely be messy, but you'll very quickly be able to shorten that amount of time and eventually be able to do it without spilling a single drop.

A starter set of mechanic tools will cost you $20-40 on Amazon. Oil and filter is usually $20-40 even if you use the good stuff. But then those tools and ramps will also be used basically forever, so they're one-time costs. Once you do this a couple times and get comfortable getting under the car, looking at things, then you can read about doing transmission or differential fluid changes, start removing some of your engine covers just to take a look around and compare it to all the DIY videos and articles/posts that you can find. Once you have a small set of tools, any subsequent jobs will likely just require maybe 1 or 2 additional specialized tools to access some weird things. Even today, after having done most of my own maintenance for years, I would sometimes have to go on Amazon and spend $7 just to buy some weird size socket just to get to this one thing on specific car. You'll familiarize yourself with bolt clamps, start to see how manufacturers like to connect things, where things get dirtier than other places, look at things that you don't normally see when the car is all buttoned up, all with very little risk. It's also definitely easier on a Japanese car. I learned to work on older German cars when I started, where it took 3-4 different bolts and bits and strange wrangling of plastic trim and linings just to remove a bumper, so then I was pleasantly surprised that all I needed was ONE SINGLE 10mm socket on a dozen exposed bolts to take off my Mazda bumper.

It took me a couple years of light wrenching before I was comfortable enough to do my own brakes (mentally, it always seemed like the biggest risk if I messed something up). Now, I can swap all of my brake pads before a track day in about half hour. I recently bought another VW and learned that it has a common coolant system issue, something I had never worked on before... I spent a couple days reading and watching videos, then just ordered the right parts and went in and did everything while following along and pausing the videos. Took me a couple hours, but now I am not nervous about doing anything coolant-related since I gained a deep understanding how the piping works, etc. In fact, I've now added a simple coolant system flush to my to-do list for my other cars.

I looked at your post history and did some light Googling... looks like this site has your full 553-page manual. Here is the link to page 448 that guides you through an oil change, but it looks like all the maintenance stuff starts on page 432. Based on Amazon's built-in car search tool, it looks like the Fram XG7317 is what fits on a '16 TLX V6 AWD. And the service manual says you should be using 0W-20, which is also something you can find on Amazon... I use Castrol Syntec 0W-20 for my track car that definitely sees a ton of hard driving, and it's usually $25 for a 5-qt jug. Based on this resource, looks like you only need about 4.5 qts. This video seems to be pretty informative to walk you through an entire oil change on the V6.

You probably want to create an account on tlxforums.com and start poking around the maintenance subs. Maintenance section and common issues section.

I would tell you to look for a formal service manual, but I may be dating myself here. It doesn't look like there are paper manuals available to buy (at least from Honda; there may eventually be third party ones). In the meantime, it looks like you can pay to access this one... $30/year? Maybe do some of the more simple DIYs, get yourself familiar, start building up a small tool collection, and then go in there and poke around and maybe even download/print some of the stuff you'd want to do.

Feel free to PM me if you want to discuss more or bounce some ideas around, or if you just need a cheerleader before you dive into your first job. Hell, in typing all of this, I'm feeling pretty good about getting down on some Acura V6 maintenance myself, lol.

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*edit* I didn't realize how carried away I got with this response. I'm sorry for thread-jacking with a text wall, u/op. Let me know if you'd like me to remove this post and share it in a PM instead.

Ignore all the "purist hipsters" here, and do what you like

>How hard is it to apply?

Depending on which one you get. I would highly recommend the 3m Dinoc, because it has some sort of air channels that make it super easy to iron out bubbles. The regular stuff works also, but its not as easy to work with.

Overall vinyl is labor intensive, but not that hard to apply. I would order 2 sheets just in case you mess one up, and make sure they are larger than your hood with about 2 inch edge of extra material per side (in case you misalign, you want to have extra material). Best part is that its non-permanent, you can peel it off if you don't like it.

Things you need:

• heat gun
  
  
• Squeege http://www.amazon.com/3M-Applicator-Squeegee-PA1-B-Blue/dp/B00657SFPE
  
  
• Xacto knives
  
  
• 3m Primer for the edges. http://www.amazon.com/3M-Primer-94-Wrapping-Application/dp/B0088P06AS/ref=pd_sim_auto_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=0FBQ6TS20B88JAW68PRD
  
  
• WrapCut filament tape.
  
  >What are the basic steps?
  
  For the size of your hood, you definitely need a couple of people to help you. They need to hold the vinyl without the backing tape over the hood while you work from the edge and inside out smoothing out the bubbles
  
  You probablty want to have the hood off, makes your life easier, but you can manage with it on the car. If you ordered a sheet significantly bigger than your hood, you want to trim it to that 2 inch spec while the backing tape is still on.
  
  The way you do it is first, you apply the wrapcut tape to the underside of your hood, about a quarter inch from the edge - you definitely want to wrap the vinyl around all edges to the underside, because otherwise it will peel in hot weather. Then, with your friends holding the vinyl, start from the front, and work inside out to apply it. If you have any crevises in your hood, you definitely want to apply primer there.
  
  Get it all on except the edges. For the edges, apply the primer to an edge, and to the underside near the wrapcut tape. Heat the vinyl gently, and wrap it around the edge to the underside. When you have all 4 edges, wait about an hour for the glue to stick, then peel the wrapcut tape to get a clean edge. Trim anything you don't like with xacto knives.
  
  Youtube is your friend for specifics
  
  >Will it last?
  
  If you get the edges and crevises correctly, absolutely. Otherwise it will peel. The vinyl is a pretty robust material, it can handle washes and heat. If you have little dents, what may happen is that in super hot weather you will get a small flat bubble that forms if the air heats up in that void enough, however, you can just take a needle and deflate it.
  
  >Is it worth it?
  
  All up to you. Its not glossy, but it does look like carbon fiber.
  
  >Is it fine to get some for cheap on eBay?
  
  The cheap CF vinyl is shit. It won't stick as well, and will probably tear. If you are gonna do it, do it right with the 3m stuff.

I've got a bit over 180k on mine, same year, same trim, and I really haven't had problems with anything major. I did do the transmission flush/refill as the other poster suggested around 120k, and that's super easy. It takes a special transmission fluid, but you can buy it by the case online for pretty cheap. Do not let a shop power flush your transmission. Ever. You have been warned.

You want this stuff, and only this stuff:
Amazon - Mobil 3309
It even qualifies for free Prime shipping.

Check the heated air intake blend module on the airbox - it's that thing on the airbox intake that hooks to that strange corrugated tube. They are known to stick open to the hot side(mine did), so I disassembled the airbox, removed the failed vacuum solenoid, blocked the heated air intake, and sealed it back up.

Also check your cabin filter if you haven't recently - it's a bit of a pain to get to, but if you haven't ever messed with it, you will be very glad you did once you see it.

Make sure your power steering reservoir isn't leaking and/or foaming. You can get a replacement hose and updated clamps from FCP that will fix that, and you will need to grab a can of Pentosin CHF power steering fluid (~$20). After feeling the difference, I'd flush that and refill it even if it's not having a problem. It's a simple thing that greatly improves the steering, and it's basically the same procedure as the transmission.

That said, the transmission is easy. Go for a short (< 5 min) drive to warm it up. Check transmission fluid level and fill if necessary. Disconnect the transmission cooler return line (upper, iirc?), push a piece of 3/8 clear tube on it and run that into a container. Mark the first container at 2qt before you start. After that, just re-use the ATF bottles. I have read that you can drain the trans before you start so you get fresh fluid right in it, but I skipped that part for the sake of time since I had a case of fluid and you only need 8-10 quarts, worst-case scenario.

• Crank the motor, change through all the gears, back in park, and let idle until 2qt has been drained (having a buddy is almost essential to making this quick and easy). Shut off motor.
  
• Add 2qt back through transmission fill, check level. Having a long flex funnel is ideal here.
  
• Repeat drain/fill routine until the fluid coming out is clean red instead of black or maroon. It took about 9 quarts for me.
  
• Top off, button up the line, and go for a short drive.
  
• Enjoy a clean, tight-shifting transmission.
  
  Power steering is a similar procedure, but easier.
  
  
• Siphon out old PS fluid, refill reservoir with clean fluid.
  
• Detach return line and route that to an appropriate container.
  
• Start car, turn wheel, stop car, add PS to fill. Same routine as transmission, just less fluid. Don't let it run dry, or you'll have to bleed it out. (Not hard, not fun either)
  
• Reattach return line with new hose clamp.
  
  
  Other than the things mentioned, I have only replaced a coil pack, the blower resistor, and the PCV trap. The symptoms of a clogged PCV are an uneven idle that gets better after you pull the oil dipstick and it releases a "hiss", like opening a soda can. Hope you never have that problem, because it is a gigantic pain in the ass to do in your driveway. That basically entails removing the intake manifold, which is way harder than it sounds.

Here is the filter you need (just search for the model number on Amazon and you can buy it there. Your model number is KN-138). For oil, I run Rotella Synthetic, but any 5W-40 or 10W-40 will work (the 5 and 10 just designate the temperature at which it will still run well, ie 5 C or 10 C. I live in the north east so I go for 5 for peace of mind). Regardless of which you choose, you'll need about 2.9 quarts for a full (ie with filter) change.

Get some nitrile gloves (especially for spreading oil on the filter when you install it), shop towels for clean up, and you may want to look into getting a new crush washer for the drain bolt (not sure if/when yours has ever been replaced. They can last a while, but it's not a bad idea to replace it if you aren't sure). An oil filter clamp isn't a bad idea to help with getting them off, but I doubt you'll have issue with it. Don’t forget a good oil drain pan (I recommend this one with a screw in, top spout – this is what the oil would drain into – the oil filter holder on the top so it can drain over 24 hours, as well as a front spout), as well as a funnel to help you get the oil in.

Let me know if you need help with anything else. I've found these instructions helpful for those new to it and they are the exact same for you, too. What do you need to change the rectifier for?

If it was me, I would put the bike horizontal (but make sure this is ok fluid wise, and with the manufactuerr's instruction manual), and I would use PB blaster on it for a week. And I do mean a week, and the PB Blaster brand only. I know that some may say a week is a bit long, but I have found that an extended period of time helps, as the metal expands/cools a number of days helping to draw the catalyst in.

Then I would get a dremel with this cut off wheel and use it to "notch" the head of the screw as deep as I could without hurting the surrounding metal. Then I would go to the store and find a flat head bit that will fit an impact driver, and it needs to be "impact quality" and "hardened". The impact driver needs to have a high torque..

Then, make sure that whatever bit you have fits securely in the notch you have created, use the impact wrench to break it loose, perhaps far enough that you can get the vise grips on it and finish bringing the bolt out. If you have not used an impact driver before, you should get some wood screws and a block of wood and practice so you are comfortable with it and know what to expect.

Then clean and chase the threads with the appropriate tap. And use an anti seize compound when re-installing the bolts.

I prefer this to drilling out and retapping the screw because he can get an OEM replacement bolt that will fit perfectly and not worry about the fit of a different bolt. Also, this method is actually less laborious (in my opinion) and he can always drill out and re-tap the screw if this does not work (but chances are good that it will).

I think the welding suggestion would work also, but OP may not have a welder. And if the OP wanted, he could use a regular heat gun on it a number of times (with the PB blaster) to expand and help crack the corrosion.

On a similar note, probably also not the technically correct repair, But 4 years ago I repaired several 1 inch sized dings through the gel coat on my keel with JB WaterWeld. Before applying I cleaned it the area well with rubbing alcohol and a toothbrush and then dried it with a hair dryer. The boat is white so it was a good match, and with just a little sanding it looked pretty darn good. Four years later those repairs are still holding strong. Good luck with your repairs OP. It should be an easy fix, just be sure to take care of right away before it gets worse.

Edit: Marine Weld might be a better match for you since it will dry a dark grey like your hull. I prefer to work with the putty that I linked above because it is easier to shape. But I bet the marine weld would do a good job for you too.

It would help if you could identify the specific joints that are the noisiest. It's likely a combination of your rear shock, your swingarm's connection to the frame, and the subframe joints. Sometimes you can't do much with older bikes short of replacing the parts, but cleaning and greasing it should help you.

WD40 is simply a water displacement. It doesn't grease anything, it just helps remove the water, and it's especially helpful if youre trying to unscrew or pull out something and it's stuck, as it will temporarily lubricate what you spray it on.

If you want to get rid of squeaks in the joints, either get some spray lubricant(like a silicone based one, something like this) or you can tear the bike down and apply grease(just get a tub of it and it'll last you years, something like this) to a lot of the moving parts. The rear shock is something you definitely don't wanna be taking apart unless you know what you're doing, so try just putting grease on the outsides of the joints or getting spray lubricant and spraying it in the joints.

I recommend the grease method, as the silicone spray often doesn't do a long term job and it isn't nearly as water proofing. Try to find some videos of how to take apart dirt bikes, and apply those concepts to your bike. Every bike is different, but if you watch some klx 125 teardown videos, you'll catch on. Pretty much you can take off everything except the rear shock/swingarm and still be able to put it back on easily.

Thank you! So I just removed everything, the dash lid and the center console lid; fortunately they both had a separate section underneath that could be unscrewed where I was able to tuck away the excess fabric. I cleaned it really well with 99% isopropyl alcohol (this discolored the vinyl or whatever it was, so if you intend on taking it off and going back to stock I would advise to maybe just use dish soap). I found the fabric I wanted - Pendleton wool which is a high quality wool from the Pacific Northwest if you haven't heard of it. Since it is constantly exposed to sun, I would advise going with a higher quality fabric in hopes it would minimize fading quickly. After cleaning the area, I used Elmers Craftbond Adhesive but if I do it again I would use something stronger like a 3M product... maybe even 3M Headliner and Fabric Adhesive. Spray that over the large surface area where you will be applying the fabric, you have a little time before it sets so spray and apply your fabric but get it centered and positioned where you want rather quickly --- this is the time you will also want to stretch it out to avoid ripples in the fabric. Finally I used a hot glue gun but any craft Adhesive would work to secure the fabric corners and edges that were tucked away under the cosmetic area -- again I was able to unscrew a plastic piece where I applied the hot glue/adhesive to secure the fabric better. I cut away the excess fabric and screwed it all together which also helped make the fabric taut. Be generous with the initial aerosol fabric adhesive on the cosmetic side - depending on how thick the fabric is you might want to be careful to not soak a thin fabric with it. I used enough that I could slightly feel the adhesive through the wool but it didn't affect anything. The corners were tough, but I let the spray adhesive dry and it allowed me to pull on it to make it a lot more taut which got the ripples out as well as letting me square the edges and apply the hot glue. Sorry for making this super long - I might be making it sound difficult, but it actually was really easy to do. Shit now that I think about it, I used some forum walk through to do it - I'll try to find it and post an edit with it.

Edit: fixed links and added walk through I found on a Subaru forum, he used seat fabric from an STI but go to any fabric store and pick out your own! You could probably also add a foam layer in between to pad your elbow - I'm sure you could also find that at a fabric store or even Amazon. My next project is actually to go to my wood elf father in law and make a modified center console lid and then wrap that with Pendleton wool, I want to add a cup holder and a few other things - maybe an area to stash my CB and some camping gear.

WD-40 is not really made for anything but loosening stuck things, once it evaporates it no longer lubricates very well.

Try a lock deicer if its is for sure frozen or use a dry graphite spray in the lock after the WD-40 to keep it nice and free.

WD-40 loosens really well but isn't a lasting effect. Spray graphite doesn't loosen well but lasts. They are a perfect compliment to each other.

A properly functioning cooling system would keep things from boiling over during midsummer in Death Valley.

Hill climbs are, of course, more taxing on an engine, but the days of inadequate cooling went out the window with the emissions regulations, because NOx is strongly affected by combustion temperature. So manufacturers were forced to used larger radiators that could handle the edge cases. The takeaway is that anything with a catalytic converter on it (~1976 and newer) should be able to handle any real driving situation you'd ever encounter.

The thermostat is simple and cheap, the radiator not quite as much, but a simple rod job shouldn't cost that much. If the radiator also has pinholes from age, that's when you start thinking about just replacing it, and bumping the number of cores. (Going from a 2-core to a 3-core, etc)

That being said, I am certain that an ambulance would already have an uprated system by the nature of what it is required to do.

If you want to put off dealing with overheating until after the winter, a simple coolant additive like water wetter will buy you better heat transfer between the engine/coolant/radiator/heater core. When I had my Westy, it was pretty much a mandatory-use item, but it will help any vehicle that has a borderline thermal issue.

Speaking of heater cores, car heat is provided by a simple coolant loop to a small radiator inside the passenger compartment. Cranking heat full blast (while not a lot of fun), adds quite a bit of extra cooling to the engine, and is a good way to buy a few more miles before needing to stop if you're on a long uphill.

Last bit, thanks for telling us about your build, and I agree, stealth is the way to go. The built-in appliances and fridge were nice, but I had noticeably more trouble parking in my obviously-a-camper-van than my friends who used more subtle forms of vehicle.

(with the exception of the early wasserboxers than VW Westys used, whose cooling setup was a shitshow across the board. They were VW's first go at watercooling, and, well... VW had a lot to learn.)

Thanks for the answer! This is the first time we've been met with a car that recommends a variety of oils. We've only owned Chevy, Jeep, and Toyota in the past and they all have a pre-set oil viscosity they want irregardless of your climate.

I'm in New England USA which means its fairly moderate. Warm summers, chilly winters but rarely anything into the extremes.

Our cars mostly run 5W-30 which is why I was hoping we could get away with using that if it is a direct place in.

I'm thinking of using the Mobil 1 European Formula
https://www.amazon.com/Mobil-120760-Synthetic-Motor-0W-40/dp/B00HG76A9A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478619568&sr=8-1&keywords=mobil+1+european+car+formula+0w-40

http://www.mercedesmedic.com/how-to-change-oil-mercedes-benz-diy-instructions-video/

Because that website recommended it. But I see it nowhere listed on the MB 229.5 page. Only general Mobil1 shows up there
Thanks!

Edit:
Got the Castrol 0W-40 :) all good

Most (if not all) greases are just too thick for bearings, you need something much thinner for bearings to run well on. A lot of people (myself included) think 10 weight nano oil seems to be just about the best, Some even prefer the thinner 5 weight nano oil.

Daiwa Reel Oil and food grade mineral oil(food safe option) are two more very common recommendations. Also just about any gun lube would be adequate as well. I'd personally recommend Hornady One-Shot Dry Lube as well, it's great stuff. Stay away from any organic based oils such as olive, vegetable, peanut, etc... as they'll tend to gum up and become rancid. Same thing with W(Water) D(Displacement) 40 as it's not a lube but a displacer of water and will also gum up the action of your knife.

Greases are better utilized on knives that run on washers, such as a Sebenza. I have personal experience with Tri-Flow Synthetic Grease and would definitely recommend it for some washer knives that seem to run a little better with a light application of grease such as the aforementioned Sebenza.

They look okay for a bit longer to me. (from what I can see on the outside pad)















Here's how I go about with pad replacement intervals. I pull the pads out to see how they're doing where I can see the whole pad. I check for things like cracks that go down to the backing plate or of there's a chunk or something missing out of them. After that I check to see how much actual pad is left and if they're okay to keep on the vehicle or if I should get new brake pads. I use what's called a Tread Depth Gauge which I recommend everyone have at home. It's a cheap tool you can get at any auto parts store. While measuring brake pads if it's at 3/32 or below I replace the brake pads, or if the pad squealer is clearly making contact with the rotor. But if they're okay and while they're out I lube up the pad backing plate where it contacts on the piston or bracket, the sides of the pad where it sits on the bracket shims, and the slide pins. I use this stuff from AGS called Sil-Glyde. Works great. Just make sure not to get it on the actual pad itself.















But again with your original question from what I can see they look like they're getting there but okay to still use. If you have any other questions feel free to ask :)

http://www.amazon.com/Ozium-Glycol-Ized-Professional-Sanitizer-OZM-22/dp/B000CSQJOG/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1427366079&sr=1-2&keywords=ozium+new+car+scent

This stuff is quite powerful, non staining on my oem mats and available at most auto stores and definitely wal-mart. The only reason I ever tried it was a friend worked at a ford dealership years ago and when they had cars with a musty smell they would spray an enzyme cleaner on the a/c evaporator and then pop a can of this in the interior, they would then pull it in the shop and let it air out for two days because it was so frigging powerful.
Obviously you wouldn't need but a spray per mat and maybe under each seat if you like it pungent. About $5 at wal-mart. They also have another scent but you specifically said New Car so give it a try.

Not kidding, light sprays to test, one per mat...come back in 20 minutes and see if that is enough for you. Lasts quite awhile.

Any enzymatic odor eater should suffice on the evap core.

http://www.amazon.com/Interdynamics-760-Conditioner-Heater-Cleaner/dp/B000UHD74E

Edited to add: this is the one they used in the dealership.
http://www.ultrashield.com/products_AC.htm
Must be online only as I've never seen anywhere but there.

Edit to the edit: do you have a cabin air filter? The newer ones are carbon and baking soda impregnated and resist odors a lot better than the original design or a complete lack of like many of us have.

RTV Silicone

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HBGI8K/

However the trick to making it easy to remove and easy to -delid a second time- with just your fingers (like let's say you messed up the LM) is to apply four VERY small dabs in each corner of the IHS, when using the relid kit. Each dab should be no larger than the size of a pin-head. If you made it the size of a grain of rice, that's a bit too much. If you can't measure or haven't seen a pinhead, half a grain of rice in size would be a good estimate :) Make sure when you delid the first time, you remove all of the original black goop Intel used. Some people also recommend sanding the entire edge of the IHS until the square ring is copper colored, to make sure it's flat.

Thanks guys for answering. This is the one I ordered 2 days ago and had just arrived todayhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LH7L0KS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was reading the question and answer section and the reviews section and one guy used it for his 06 subaru wrx sti and he praised this product and said that it helps with the oil consumption in turbocharged engines, and is apparently popular among Subaru car drivers, as there is another guy with an 09 WRX that uses this and praises it as well.

LOL :) and this is why I will always tell people to avoid buying leased vehicles...

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if you want to see how long the car can go without changing oil then ...sure....just be ready to pay for the whole car when you blew the engine...

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You are renting the car pretty much when you are leasing... there's no way the dealer will let you off the hook for negligence.....

https://www.autotrader.com/car-shopping/leasing-car-what-type-damage-will-you-be-charged-216155

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so if you want to do some basic maintenance... just go by the owner manual

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5000 miles for severe driving or 7500 miles

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0w-20 or 5W-30 vary by countries

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rotate the tires with every oil change (be sure to change the oil filter as well.

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synthetic oil is not that expensive $19 for 5 qt and $9 for oil filter--

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https://www.amazon.com/Castrol-03124-0W-20-Advanced-Synthetic/dp/B00JGQLZJ4

That seems like a better option than taking apart a dashboard or throwing down a grand for this.

Have you ever used any of those additives that seal leaks on their own? I'm hoping to just have a fix hold me over until after winter at the latest.

Something like these: https://www.amazon.com/K-Seal-ST5501-Purpose-Permanent-Coolant/dp/B001QT9KO6

http://barsleaks.com/product/liquid-aluminum-cooling-system-stop-leak/

if the filter doesn't fix it all, or even as a proactive measure before installing the new filter, some cleaner for the whole system would help alot. It goes in the intake behind the glovebox and outside the car as per directions on the can, just don't breathe much air from the cabin until you are done spraying, then breathe peacefully.

edit: didn't look at that product as closely as I should have (sorry for that,) seems far more complicated than my actual favorite, whose process is a bit easier

I run a lower temp T stat and I'm in soflo. It takes longer to warm up but it takes some nice throttle pounding to go over 210. Water Wetter also helps clear out air bubbles and heat spots causing the engine to run hotter.

Not sure I can tell exactly where your leak is from the photos, but I would recommend a weld if you have access or JB Weld (an easy epoxy) if you don't. The JB Weld might be the easiest option anyway. I have used on boats and my automotive engines many times.

J-B Weld 8272 MarineWeld Marine Epoxy - 2 oz
http://amzn.com/B000KKPFFA

A good glass shop?

OK, these windows are a royal PITA. You have to cut off the old rubber, remove the glass (carefully!) and clean the glass spotlessly clean, clean the opening (again, spotless) as well. You then need the proper sealant (possibly urethane?)

And you'd need the rubber weatherstripping. It has to be cut to size, and spliced (fun... basically using superglue).

I'm sure there are YouTube videos on it, basically a piece of cord to install the glass, and some sweat and work.

Battery Tender 021-0123 Battery Tender Junior 12V, 0.75A Battery Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qEgJAbVJNNSB0

You can get these at pretty much any hardware or autoparts store. They aren't for recharging a dead battery but they will keep it topped up during the off season. I would also recommend getting some terminal protective spray to help limit terminal corrosion.

CRC 05046 Technician Grade Battery Terminal Protector - 7.5 Wt Oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CIPUNC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bKgJAb9PBFC9P

So here is what the service manual says:

http://i.imgur.com/hzMwOqu.png

Type TIV stands for type T-IV The IV are roman numerals with stand for 4 so the common vernacular is to say type T-4 . But the fluid standard you are looking for is called JWS 3309 Automatic Transmission Fluid

It is available from several manufactures The GM part number is given in the image, Toyota at the dealer ususally has about the best price but sometimes you can find a good deal on ebay for like 4 or 6 bottles but you may not want to have that many around.

But here is an exhaustive list:

AISIN Part No.: ATF-0T4

Spec: JWS 3309 Automatic Transmission Fluid

Mobil One 3309

Audi: P/N G 055 025 (-A2)

Chevrolet: AC Delco T-IV, GM P/N 88900925

Chevrolet Light Trucks: AC Delco T-IV, GM P/N 88900925

Ford: Premium automatic transmission fluid, P/N XT-8-QAW, Spec WSS-M2C924-A
Hyundai: P/N 00232-19023.

Land Rover: Esso JWS3309US

Lincoln: Premium automatic transmission fluid, P/N XT-8-QAW, Spec WSS-M2C924-A

Lexus: ATF Type T-IV, Toyota P/N 08886-81015

Mazda: W/ 6-spd Automatic use JWS 3309 Automatic Transmission Fluid

Mercury: Premium automatic transmission fluid, P/N XT-8-QAW, Spec WSS-M2C924-A

Mini:6-Spd Automatic Transmission GA6F21WA use MINI ATF JWS 3309, P/N 83 22 0 402 413

Pontiac: AC Delco T-IV, GM P/N 88900925

Porsche: Esso JWS 3309, Porsche P/N 000 043 205 28

Saab: Saab 3309 mineral based oil.

Saturn: Saturn T-IV Fluid, Saturn P/N 22689186

Scion: ATF Type T-IV, Toyota P/N 08886-81015

Subaru: use CVTF or equivalent

Suzuki: Suzuki ATF 3317 or Mobil ATF 3309

Toyota: ATF Type T-IV, Toyota P/N 08886-81015

Volkswagen: P/N G 055 025

Volvo: P/N 1161540-8


Here is the toyota bottle: https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-00279-000T4-01-Automatic-Transmission/dp/B00P2QIR0C/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1492218139&sr=1-5&keywords=mobil+3309

Here is the mobil 3309 common in parts stores: https://www.amazon.com/Mobil-55221-Automatic-Transmission-Fluid/dp/B00BLKXW9O/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1492218218&sr=1-1&keywords=mobil+3309

You're not wrong.

Definitely sounds like K-Seal will have a high chance of fixing it though. Shake first, then pour, then enjoy the time and money saved.

https://www.amazon.com/K-Seal-ST5501-Purpose-Permanent-Coolant/dp/B001QT9KO6/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=kseal&qid=1568304202&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Thanks a lot, I wasn't aware of that. I use it for track days and DD, I am a beginner at track days so is M1 good for me and I am not in the extreme applications? What qualifies as extreme applications? One session is 30 min and one track event is 8 sessions per weekend, I have done 2 track weekends with M1 oil, how often do you recommend that I change it? also to double check this is what I use https://www.amazon.com/Mobil-94001-5W-30-Synthetic-Motor/dp/B000COX0JM

Lol what? A quart of synthetic is nowhere close to $30. Here is 6 quarts of Mobil1 for $27.
https://www.amazon.com/Mobil-94001-5W-30-Synthetic-Motor/dp/B000COX0JM

FYI my Tahoe with a 5.7 L V8 took about 6 quarts. 6 quarts will cover MOST vehicles. If you meant to say gallon, then figure around $40 for oil. Another $5-10 for the filter.

So you still save money and know the job is done correctly.

Can you tell me what state you're in? I'm a MN girl, born and raised and would like to give you accurate advice ;-)

Brace yourself! [There's many options] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HACYNY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415070970&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40) and you're going to need one... But I can tell you, more expensive is not always better.

[We live where there are no trees] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000AMKU58/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1415071205&sr=8-3&pi=SY200_QL40) so this comes in handy.

[And lastly, we have pets] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002IJXDA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415071405&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40) so pet safe stuff is important to me!!!

Welcome to winter!!!

Edit: entry

what are the back of TV's generally made of? im guessing its a low surface energy plastic, which would ideally need a primer or adhesion promoter for the adhesive to stick properly.

3M makes a variety of adhesion promoter/primer for their tape products.

i have some laying around the house, because of automotive uses.. but something like https://www.amazon.com/3M-Primer-94-Wrapping-Application/dp/B0088P06AS can be used on low energy and high energy surfaces

or these sponge pads https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Automotive-Adhesion-Promoter-Sponge-Applicator-Packet/?N=5002385+3291952368&rt=rud

sometimes sold under the 4298 number:
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Adhesion-Promoter-Sponge-Applicator/dp/B004TGJU2A

It's a parasitic power loss. I cut the belt on my '01 Accord about 4 years ago.

You should go ahead and replace the input shaft bearing on the transmission. If that's the original 277k transmission, then you're going to have to rebuild it at some point. It sounds more difficult than it is. Here's a list of all the unique parts/tools. You'll know your ISB (input shaft bearing) has failed when you hear a gross/grinding noise that disappears when you're stopped, engine is running, but have the clutch pedal pressed to the floor.


http://www.harborfreight.com/3-jaw-pilot-bearing-puller-4876.html
http://www.ebay.com/itm/151645763545
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NY8O6K
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HBGI8K
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N37CUK

Honda OEM replacement parts for the bearing and seal.
91216-PL3-005
91002-PS0-013

Or something like this might be ideal for you. Not for me though. I'm cheap :)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/301677670901

Anti-Seize or Anti-Seize

Grease or Grease or My personal favorite, Great wet/winter performance

Chain Lube I use Finish Line Wet. For chains I typically wax.

If he's electronically inclined I suggest checking out this link

http://rellinger.blogspot.com/2012/12/replacing-middle-button-on-logitech.html

If not willing to solder and replace the switch, get one of these

http://www.amazon.com/Max-Professional-2015-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B004PHDLQY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420242985&sr=8-1&keywords=electronic+contact+cleaner

And spray liberally so that it can seep in and do the job and hope for the best.

It might be contact cleaner. I got this one from amazon to use on my camera's jog wheel since it was unresponsive at random times. If there's a Fry's or Micro Center nearby, I'm pretty sure they carry some in store

Usually a silicone dielectric grease, but I like the spray stuff like this: http://www.amazon.com/CRC-05046-Technician-Terminal-Protector/dp/B000CIPUNC better.

Synthetic is usually better for the car and also lasts longer. I use mobil 1 oil filters (get them replaced every two/three oil changes) and I use 5w-30 mobil 1 synthetic oil (lasts up to 5-7k, depending on your driving style). Here's the oil I use, costco is cheapier I belive and here is the link to the Oil filter

how to tell from a good/bad oil filter: it says how much it filters somewhere around the box mobil 1 filters 99.6 percentage (one of the highest)

using these two together I found ran great, the oil lasted the longest (7k miles), I've been experimenting with different filters and oils. you can run 5w-30 is more heat resistant and better in the cold (east coast), 5w-20 is good for California-like weather because it will give you some more MPG. Some people have put 0w-20 but I haven't tried that yet. Also if you take the filter and oil to your dealer they usually do oil changes for 10 bucks.

One easy potential repair is adding a sealant to your radiator. It doesn’t work on all head gasket issues, but it does work on some (at least for awhile) and could extend the useful life by a bit.

This stuff sealed a radiator (non head-gasket) leak for me and there are reviews and videos of it fixing leaks in the head-gasket as well.

This turned out more expensive than I expected because of the tools. Can somebody confirm that I'm buying the right stuff for the job? Am I forgetting anything?
Doesn't have to be Amazon, it's just convenient. 1994 Miata.

• Permatex 81150 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, .33 oz Tube
  
• TEKTON 24325 3/8-Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench, 120-960-Inch/Pound
  
• Permatex 81343 Anti-Seize Lubricant, 1 oz. Tube
  
• NGK (9160) ZE21 Premium Spark Plug Wire Set
  
• GearWrench 80546 5/8-Inch x 6-Inch Swivel Spark Plug Socket
  
• NGK (6953) BKR5E-11 V-Power Spark Plug, Pack of 1

Okay thanks! Could you possibly provide the Amazon link? I found two listings, one for five quarts and another for 6 quarts which is massively more expensive.

Start with 5 qt of oil for $19. Don't buy a single quart extra -- that gets expensive, just get a second 5 qt and just use that with each change. End result is $3.80/qt, or $20.14 for your car. The $4.86 should be enough for a filter and maybe even wiper fluid.

I run through a can of grease and have to refill my oil can (straight 30 weight) so much more often than my WD40 can. Nothing wrong with WD40, but for most common applications there's a better choice than WD40.

Transmission fluid: Do a drain and fill every few thousand miles. I'm assuming it takes 3309 like my wagon, but check your owner's manual

Bevel gear leak, google for it; it may not be that complicated to do on your own.

Power steering leak, that, depends on how bad and where the leak is, DIY or take to a regular mechanic. Be mindful though if your car uses special power steering fluid.

Upper and lower torque mounts, these are easy to replace. I'd go with urethane bushings if possible (and if you're considering $3600 as feasible, get urethane) I linked to possible parts, do your research and you might find the same parts from other vendors, or you know, get the rubber parts. The top mount, depending on your car, you might get away with just getting the bushing if it's the "round type"

The front mount is a breeze to install if you have stands and a jack.

Control arms are a bit more labor intensive and depending on your needs, there's also urethane and other alternatives for those.

Tie rod ends are also simple and available cheap on rockauto.com

The timing belt, that, I'd leave to a professional and make sure they do the tensioner and water pump at the same time. Also, depending on your needs, get the kit with the cam seals and get those done if needed.

I've linked to some parts that probably don't fit your car, as I have my '01 V70 set up at those sites, but look for the ones compatible with your car. Overall, I think you're at the same competence level I was when I first got my wagon, volvos are great for working on them yourself and it's often more cost-effective to buy the parts and tools you need and install them yourself vs. paying someone to do it. For the record, the count for me is now: both CV axles, front bump stops (requires compressing springs), drain and fills for the transmission, inner and outer tie rod ends, coolant drain and fill, brake pads, spark plugs, torque mounts, front mount, serpentine belt/tensioner and the usual air filter and oil change. I've learned a lot in the process, which for me, is worth it.

I can't find Super Lube easily in my area, so I am wondering if this one might be used instead:

https://www.amazon.fr/Tri-Flow-TF23004-Clear-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000C15MUU/ref=sr_1_1?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1518365758&sr=8-1&keywords=synthetic+grease

edit: Maybe this one would be good too? https://www.amazon.fr/Finish-Line-Extreme-Fluoro-Huile/dp/B002L5UL92/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518366940&sr=8-1&keywords=finish+line+extreme

edit 2: Or this one? https://www.amazon.fr/Permatex-81150-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL2RI2/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1518366744&sr=8-8&keywords=permatex

Argh. I am lost in sea of information about mech keyboards (aka, /r/mechanicalkeyboards Wiki ;)

$34 for fucking grease. Hahaha. Here:

https://www.amazon.com/Tri-Flow-TF23004-Clear-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000C15MUU

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-37565-Silver-Anti-Seize-Lubricant/dp/B0006Q7H2W

I used to work in boats and there are only a few products that really work. They vary in price and are for different applications.
For smaller patches JB Weld has a two part marine adhesive that isn't too expensive (make sure to follow directions)
http://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8272-MarineWeld-Marine/dp/B000KKPFFA/ref=sr_1_41?ie=UTF8&qid=1458915714&sr=8-41&keywords=two+part+marine+epoxy
3M has a tape that i've used before and works well if you can dry/clean the surface before applying.
http://www.amazon.com/3M-03625-Wrap-Repair-Silicone/dp/B00G25GOCA/ref=pd_sim_263_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=51uPJZ9CL0L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR114%2C160_&refRID=1G59XP3NQHA92MR38NTY

If you use silicone make sure to use a good one.

An ultra grey automotive silicone should work fine and be a color close to original car color.

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82194-High-Torque-Silicone-Gasket/dp/B000HBGI8K

You can find it at any parts store but that is what I would use.

You should be able to buy a spray can of fabric/upholstery adhesive, spray it down and put it back in place. I've done that with the material on my Evo, holding up well 8 months later.

For the edge, use a credit card to tuck the material into the crevice.

as /u/stealthcoyote said, they go on with double sided tape. The thing is, proper prep is essential in order for them to stick over the long term. The louvers come with a small tube of 3M Adhesion Primer. But I found that single little tube was not enough for proper prep. So I bought two 3-packs on amazon So I had 7 tubes total, and ended up using 6 of them.

So if you do decide to buy those louvers, do yourself a favor and buy extra adhesion primer ahead of time. I was already into my install when I realized that there wasn't enough in that tube for a proper prep. And had to put everything away, and wait for the Amazon delivery.

I have been using this for years on my Minis and never had a problem with it. It was originally recommended to me on the northamericanmotoring.com forums. I highly recommended it too.

I think this is what I'll go with. Also looks like Amazon price matched https://www.amazon.com/Mobil-120760-Synthetic-Motor-0W-40/dp/B00HG76A9A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484927714&sr=8-1&keywords=Mobil+1+Full+Synthetic+0w40

Youtube will help you install and remove. Basically like /u/th7957 says you get a wire between the window frame and glass and cut the seal to get the glass out. Then you have the fun endeavor of cleaning the old gasket/sealant out.

Check out part suppliers that specialize in that vehicle for that window seal if it is available. It is more common to use window adhesive but I personally would rather use the correct gasket if it is an option. My guess is you will end up using the adhesive though.

JB Weld is pretty much the epoxy to go with for nearly everything, they have a marine version:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KKPFFA

probably a readily available NLGI 1 or 2 ("peanut butter" consistency) general purpose grease, maybe http://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-VV608-Multi-Purpose-Automotive-Industrial/dp/B000GAP43C . A similar grease should be available in pretty much every auto parts store.

Here is a tip for you. Get a six year warranty water heater, but make it last decades. First watch this, from about the 1:40 mark:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wzecqGyCllU

Guy is replacing the sacrificial anode. On your new one, remove it and coat the threads with a anti-seize compound:

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81343-Anti-Seize-Lubricant-Tube/dp/B0002UEOLO

Then reinstall it. Now use a marker on the tank to show the installation date. Every five years from that point you pop out the old worn-out anode and install a fresh one.

My last tank lasted 32 years, I think. The anode really reduces corrosion to almost nothing.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-38808-Headliner-Fabric-Adhesive/dp/B004MEBENM

There are probably some “store brands” in the auto parts stores, but be sure it’s a heavy duty headliner adhesive.

This stuff is better for the slides

Silicone lube is good for rubber.

AGS SG8 Lubricant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KXLR5E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hZf-AbKC79YQV

I think the GM-LL-A-025 spec is technically obsolete and replaced by the Dexos requirements. Anyways, I source my 0w40 Mobil 1 Euro car formula on Amazon Prime.

https://www.amazon.com/Mobil-120760-Synthetic-Motor-0W-40/dp/B00HG76A9A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502915673&sr=8-1&keywords=0W40


$22.88 for a 5 quart jug. My 200,000 mile 2.0t seems to like the oil just fine, although I've never ran an oil analysis.

3M makes the best. Clean all the crap off the body and the window before putting new glue on it. Let the glue setup a little before installing the window or it will be a slippery mess.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-08693-Urethane-Windshield-Cartridge/dp/B000RW1XCK

Well this is already turning into an oil thread, so I'll throw in my $0.02.

50 bucks for a gallon of semi-synthetic motor oil?!

Here's some JASO rated fully synthetic oil for ~20 bucks.

Battery terminal protector instead. I've had the same can for about 8 years. It has lasted many a car.
Clean the terminals and clamps with a wire brush, spray a coat of the protector on everything and add some fiber washers. I've never had terminal corrosion issues.

I have a feeling their marine-grade 2-part epoxy would work well.

Every spring the hardware stores and gas stations sell lock de-icer for a quarter. I see them for $1.50 most of the time.

The flashlight trick is cool, but keeping one of those de-icers in your pocket is a good winter EDC. The bigger problem is having your door be frozen shut and pulling your door handle clean off. I used to keep a full size de-icer can at my desk to avoid that.

http://www.amazon.com/CRC-05046-Technician-Terminal-Protector/dp/B000CIPUNC

I use a similar product after cleaning a customers battery up with some baking soda and water, works great but this guy used way too much.

This should fix that issue in most knobs:

http://www.amazon.com/Max-Professional-2015-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B004PHDLQY?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

You have to take the plastic covering off and spray it inside the knob thing on the circuit board. Should look like this: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/512sGRdBjgL.jpg. If it's covered there is usually a hole for spraying into.

you will be surprised at just how much temperatures go down with a simple coolant flush. i reached 248°F on a 90°F day, it scared me. i flushed the coolant and the next day the ambient temp was 105°F on the same trip, my coolant didn't reach 190°F.
to take it a step further mix ONLY "water wetter" and water. :)

So $50 in oil and a $10 filter. Yep confirms what I said to someone looking at a boxster, Porsche mechanics are highway robbers.

For a nice install, get a 3M primer 94 pen

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Primer-94-Wrapping-Application/dp/B0088P06AS

I don't know where to just get one. Kind of a bummer to spend an additional $5 to install something correctly.

I used this one
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UHD74E/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It worked OK, and I stopped parking in a damp garage. I also changed the cabin filter.

Thanks for posting this. I wish there were more posts like this!

1. Sounds like your steering is neutral, or you had a bad alignment job. Did you replace all the ball joints yourself?
   
   
2. If the plastic cover annoys you, remove it.
   
   
3. I'm not really a shill, I promise.
   
   
4. Was going to suggest you get a multimeter and check the voltage regulator.
   
   
5. The noise is usually from a bad idler pulley. Good catch!

They use polyurethane adhesive for windshields, so i'm guessing that would probably work fine for your mirror.

I don't think it comes in smaller containers than this for the 3m stuff though https://www.amazon.com/3M-08693-Urethane-Windshield-Cartridge/dp/B000RW1XCK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493075069&sr=8-1&keywords=3m+polyurethane

[That stuff just so happens to be on sale (-$3) at Amazon right now for $11.99 shipped w Prime. FYI.](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000RW1XCK/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_ZsvvDbQ3DB4W9 via @amazon)

Would contact cleaner work in this instance?

https://www.amazon.com/Max-Professional-2015-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B004PHDLQY

It's probably corrosion or deposits built up on the PCB from the liquid damage causing inconsistent contact.

You can try blasting it with contact cleaner - like https://www.amazon.com/Max-Professional-2015-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B004PHDLQY

Just blast it in there, probably won't have to take it apart if the slim nozzle will reach. But make sure to hit all affected areas.

Note though that it might be corroded so badly that no amount of cleaning will help, but fingers crossed.

They do make "gun grease." However, there's nothing special about it and it's just repackaged grease in small tubes that are actually pretty convenient.

Go to your local auto parts store and buy yourself a 1 lb. tub of Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease. It'll cost you less than $10 and that'll be about what you pay for 1 oz. of "Gun Grease." The only limitation to this is that you can't throw it in your shooting bag and keep it handy whenever you're shooting.

If you want a tube of something, I like Triflow or Krieghoff Gun Glide.

At the end of the day, though, it's most important to keep the grease clean. When you're done shooting, wipe it off and reapply.

Spend $15 and fix it the right way... you're welcome..

3M 38808 Headliner and Fabric Adhesive - 18.1 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MEBENM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_amVpDb49MJPV1

https://www.amazon.com/Mobil-120760-Synthetic-Motor-0W-40/dp/B00HG76A9A

Here..http://www.amazon.com/3M-08693-Urethane-Windshield-Cartridge/dp/B000RW1XCK/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1462847526&sr=1-1&keywords=auto+window+adhesive…. ya go


You need to get all of the old off first. And wipe it down with solvent[KEEP IT OFF THE PAINT!!!!!] Perhaps tape the area off first

SILGLYDE LUBE COMPOUND-- 8 OZ. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KXLR5E/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Th9Cub10EB47C made just for what you are asking for.

I'll use windshield caulking https://www.amazon.com/3M-08693-Urethane-Windshield-Cartridge/dp/B000RW1XCK
https://www.amazon.com/3M-08609-Window-Weld-Urethane-Cartridge/dp/B000FW61EW

http://www.amazon.com/3M-38808-Headliner-Fabric-Adhesive/dp/B004MEBENM/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1458670860&sr=8-6&keywords=3m+adhesive+spray

Maybe even lay down a thin layer of foam on the table under the felt.

id try something like this

They make an actual product for this.

https://www.amazon.com/Victor-Lock-Icer-Lubricant-Aerosol/dp/B000AMKU58

JB MarineWeld or construction adhesive.

Wrap: https://www.amazon.com/Black-3M-Carbon-Fiber-CA-421/dp/B0062A7M2G
Adhesion promoter: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Primer-94-Wrapping-Application/dp/B0088P06AS/ref=pd_sim_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=4G41S5GQ7V11HB636HJ6

You could probably spin that and have people believe it.

Exhibit A

I suggest you get these. I had them on a keychain only for the winter months for each vehicle.


https://m.autozone.com/deicer-and-starting-fluid/de-icer/victor-lock-de-icer/128353_0_0


Victor Lock De-Icer Lubricant Aerosol .62 FL OZ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AMKU58/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_skxZDbHGA990K

http://www.amazon.com/3M-38808-Headliner-Fabric-Adhesive/dp/B004MEBENM

Oh yeh then why do they make this ?/s
https://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-80204-Water-Wetter/dp/B000CPI5ZK

I'd try some electrical contact cleaner before I tried anything else.

7 quarts + $8 for the oil filter.

Yup found it on amazon.ca

Silicone grease from amazon.ca

cheap fix: headliner/carpet spray adhesive:

http://www.amazon.com/3M-38808-Headliner-Fabric-Adhesive/dp/B004MEBENM

more expensive fix: replace the panel. They're usually cheap from a facebook group for your car (people parting crashed/broken cars), or you can spend a little more

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-2010-VW-BEETLE-CONVERTIBLE-INTERIOR-RIGHT-DOOR-TRIM-PANEL-GOOD-CONDITION-/331705302429?hash=item4d3b2d3d9d:g:T-UAAOSwyQtVvFUn&vxp=mtr

http://www.amazon.com/Interdynamics-760-Conditioner-Heater-Cleaner/dp/B000UHD74E

This stuff right here. I used to smoke in my vehicle (in the winter when it's too cold) and I would spray the seats and in the vents with this stuff. No one ever smells the smoke

My water wetter is wetter!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CPI5ZK

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C15MUU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I don’t think I’ve seen one that’s blue but I’m smart enough to know I haven’t seen everything lol.

It’s not a bad thing, usually they’re red

I wouldn’t worry about it.

I’m not going to say that there aren’t any good, trustworthy mechanics, but I will say I spent a year in automotive school to learn it myself.

Why pay someone to fuck my shit up for me? I can do that myself for free was my reasoning lol.

I never wonder anything now about repairs that I have done and, surprisingly, I’ve fucked my shit up very little, though, lessons were learned along the way. 😌

https://www.amazon.com/Mobil-120760-Synthetic-Motor-0W-40/dp/B00HG76A9A

Hey, you're right. Thanks, no reason to head to Walmart anymore. Oil was the only thing I bought there. I despise Walmart, but at $15-20 cheaper a jug they got to my sellout point.

I used this: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81343-Anti-Seize-Lubricant-Tube/dp/B0002UEOLO/ref=pd_bxgy_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GF5GVX3E1NXA9BRC3CRC

It's been on my car for over a week and still tight :). Same Grimmspeed kit too.

I was worried about it slipping but so far so good, not a single movement.

Peel back the headliner in the affected area and use some adhesive spray. Try and get something that's designed for headliners.

Eg.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004MEBENM/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/187-5835893-8984414

Maybe a sealant can help you for a while, but given the amount you're losing I bet it's a big leak.

Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/K-Seal-ST5501-Purpose-Permanent-Coolant/dp/B001QT9KO6

I use the CRC battery terminal protector and it works well.

Does the car start normally and how long have you had it? Sometimes corrosion accumulation (the green powdery stuff) can be a sign of failing battery.

I would scrap off the foam. I would worry about the long term adhesion if you don't.

Use the 3M spray. 3M 38808 Headliner and Fabric Adhesive - 18.1 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MEBENM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nTD2xb2DCYPN2

Also, get some sort of roller to smooth everything out.

This is not the technically correct fix, but I've used J-B Weld on my 1993 fiberglass boat that had similar damage. It's not a pretty fix, though it would look better on your grey boat than my white one. It's a marine epoxy that I mixed up and "patched" the area. If it's on the bottom of the boat no one is going to see it anyways. It's 20 years old - it's not worth doing the proper repair. I'm on my second season and it looks the same as the day I did the patch.

My boat came with the damage and the previous owner drove it without it spreading as /u/LikesGladiatorMovies suggested. I wouldn't guaranty yours will hold up the same but that is my experience.

That damage occurred while trying to unscrew the nozzle from the heater block- aluminum + steel + heat is a bad combo. Auto mechanics have known about this since they first started seeing aluminum engine blocks. Anti-seize compound is used on spark plugs to prevent this same sort of problem.

The solution (?)

Will try this stuff when I replace the heater block. It's supposed to be good up to 870C.