(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best oils & fluids

Here's some of the things that are good to have on hand. A lot of it is newer since I'm replacing things I did not care for. Most, if not all, can be found on Amazon. Its a little list but hardly scratches the surface of crap that you can accumulate.

For shooting:

• Eye pro - Best to have a case and alternate lenses are nice for indoor and outdoor range time. The most basic of eyewear will run you $20+ at ranges so get it ahead of time.
  
  
• Indoor ear pro - Same as eye pro... These ran me $35+tax when I decided to double up on my outdoor ear pro at the range. Plenty comfortable!
  
  
• Outdoor ear pro - Muffs can be hot outside, especially in the middle of summer, but luckily you often won't need to same level of protection. It can also be nice if your muffs get in the way of a good cheek weld on a stock. I've tried regular ear plugs and the Surefire plugs but nothing beats something form-fitted to your ear especially for marathon shooting events. Couple with muffs for more protection. These are still pretty new to me but I'm happy with them so far. Easy to form and make a noticeable after a while.
  
  
• Targets - Splatter targets are amazing when youre working on marksmanship. You can easily see your hits from a distance and the contrast makes it easier for spotters to see your latest shot if you're looking through glass. These will also run you a significant premium if you buy at the range. Splatterburst targets are cheaper than Dirty Bird and, IMHO, more visible in indoor (darker) ranges. They're a great size up close for handguns and out to 70-100 yards for rifles. For plinking, just get the cheapest paper targets the range offers. You likely won't see your hits from a distance but, at that point, you probably don't really care.
  
  
  Cleaning:
  
  
• Some good solvent - You can spend a long time scraping carbon. Good solvent will let you wipe it off with a rag. Breakfree CLP, in my experience, leads to more of the former.
  
  
• Some lubricant - Opinions vary from person to person. I used to use Breakfree CLP as a lubricant all the time but there were certain sources indicating that it, like Frog-lube, is less than ideal in different ways. Slip won out among the bunches but I honestly couldn't tell you why. It was something regarding organic/synthetic compositions and temperatures coupled with anecdotal shit. Good one to Google if you're interested.
  
  
• Some brushes - Good for detail cleaning that a rag wont handle. White brush is also fantastic for clearing crap out of the seams of an XBox controller.
  
  
• Cleaning kit - I don't use it as much since I tried boresnakes but there are some good tools in here. Its compact since you use a cable to pull brushes but that means its no good for clearing jams. I'd get it again if I felt I needed a full kit but, again, I rarely use it.
  
  
• Boresnakes - I remember people hating these (again, don't remember why) so I ignored them for the longest time. They're compact and make cleaning your barrel a breeze... Epic-ly better than running a small patch down your barrel. Almost entirely replaced my cleaning kit for most post-range cleaning. They have a small wire brush portion which you can floss back and forth with shorter barrels, too. Coupled with a good solvent, these fucking rock.
  
  
• Nylon brushes - If you end up needing to run brushes down your barrel, it's probably good to not scratch the shit out of it. This was an impulsive buy but I don't regret giving Otis another $9 for their awesome products.
  
  
  Everything else:
  
  
• Thread locker - If you get a collection going, there's a good chance you'll be playing with screws quite a bit. Lock down scope rings, set screws on sights, etc.
  
  
• Anti-Seize - Completely necessary if you have multiple chokes for a shotgun and/or ever intend to use them.

I have a Maker select. It's my first and only 3D printer so my review compared to others is unreliable.

Here's a copy/paste of a review I did on it about a month ago. It's long but detailed with links:

I will give you my background before my opinions. As everyone has different goals, opinions, and experiences.

I got my printer near the end March of this year. I have something like 2500m of filament run though it, and no idea how much print time.

When I received my printer, my test prints failed and I was pissed. But this community helped improve my Cura settings and started producing usable parts. I then went nuts and printed out a BUNCH of mods. This is by far my most favorite thing. There's always something I can print to improve the quality of the prints.

THe down side is I went too far and got to a point where I couldn't produce anything of quality. So, 2 weeks of tweeking and researching later I'm printing in PETG with beautiful quality and very minimal visible layers.

My most recent project in PETG:
http://i.imgur.com/sVf7S2D.jpg?1

So, now to answer your question...

> How do you like your Maker Select?

I love it. It allowed me to buy a cheaper printer (One of the cheapest at the time @ $350) that produced amazing results. It also has upgrades you can purchase or print to improve the quality, so investing smaller amounts over time to make it better and better. I highly recommend it to anyone who is starting because it does require tweaking which forces you to learn and understand how exactly 3d printers work. A major plus was that this community has a lot of Maker Select users for support, which was a MAJOR plus for me.


As of today, I've purchased the following upgrades:

• IKEA enclosure - $115
  
• LEDs for Inside enclosure - $25
  
• MK-9/10 Extruder Gear - $9
  
• Micro Swiss All Metal hot End - $50
  
• Micro Swiss Lever - $18 (Totally not necessary, but Micro Swiss's support was AMAZING to deal with, and I wanted to support them so I purchased this as well.
  
• Misc. M3 and M4 Screws, etc. - ~$25 in total between Amazon Orders and Lowe's for things needed for mods.
  
• New 40mm fan because I broke the blade on the one I had. There are cheaper ones than this. - $14
  
• 50mm blower fan - $8
  
  So, in the last ~3 months I've spent an additional $264... Oh god, don't tell my wife! All are totally not necessary, mind you. The only thing I'd 100% recommend you do are print out the following to mods:
  
  DiiiCooler along with buying the 50mm blower fan. There are cheaper options out there, I just wanted it faster so I bought it through Amazon to get free 2 day shipping.
  
  z-Brace - This is key, and will run you maybe $15 worst case scenario to get enough M4 screws and the threaded rods.
  
  Edit: Forgot a couple more things I bought.
  
  
• Lowe's glass - $4 for 2 pieces of 7.9"x7.9" glass
  
• Borosilicate Glass - $12 - Amazing adheasing with PLA and ABS. Don't use it right now, though because I'm printing in PETG and I read on here that PETG eats borosilicate glass.
  
• Lithium Grease - $7. When I changed my bearing blocks, I had issues with sticking so I purchased some of this to help smoothing out the bearing movement on the polished rods.
  
• 3D print removal tool - $5. Printer comes with a larger scraper, but I needed something a bit more fine (thin) and this thing is perfect.
  
• Spare bearings - $13 because I broke one of them when swapping to 3d Printed bearing blocks.
  
• Digital Calipers - $18
  
  That's another $59, so $323... I have a problem. again, 95% of this is NOT NECESSARY. I'm just addicted to modding.
  
  

Frame: Realacc x210 V+
I have the non-V+ but the size isn't easy to build with, it required to mount the PDB flat, not on stand-offs.
4mm is pretty strong, a good choice for starting.

FPV cam: there are no bad choices, only preferences (PAL vs NTSC / CMOS vs CCD / IR block vs IR sensitive), this Swift will do fine.

Motors: Racerstar 2205 2300KV
2300KV gives you more torque, thus more compatibility with any propellers you want to try, see props section.
You'll choose 2600KV when/if you feel the need to, after more experience flying.

ESC: Racerstar RS30A V2 Blheli_S
Blheli_S is mandatory if building new: compatible with Multishot and Dshot in some extent, start with Multishot though.
20A would do fine I'm sure, but I'll choose 30A because Chinese-numbers and price difference.

PDB: Matek-clone with 5V/12V/Current Sensor
It's so cheap and do the job, integrated current sensor, XT-60 connector at the back.
Buy this XT-60 if mounting battery on the side.

FC: Omnibus F3 clone
OSD is integrated, and works well with the PDB above to read Current Sensor. This Youtube playlist is also nice when starting

Antenna: Anything really, small or long, you'll break them a lot so don't go too expensive right now.
Bear ind mind:
-first fly with this, it still works at fair-enough range and very durable.
-buy the same "type" of antennas: RHCP with RHCP, LHCP with LHCP. Don't mix them and label them if needed!
-5.8GHz for the video, 2.4GHz for your radio/remote.
-look at your video transmitter (Vtx) connector : RP-SMA/SMA-male/female
-buy multiple adapters, you never know when you'll need them.

Props: Science now! Propellers go according to your motors (torque) and also the battery (3S vs 4S), that's for the future, obviously they all fly (and break) at the end.
KingKong 5040 bi-blade are known to be cheap, good and durable.
-Tri-blades are heavier than Bi-blades, 2300KV motors can even bear Quad-blades.
-Bi-blades generally allow more room for unballanced propellers.
Need balancing your props?

Charger: Genuine Imax B3 = need to buy a power supply.
Fake Imax B3 = it works fine, no need to buy power supply.

Battery: There is debate to whether start 3S vs 4S, you could buy 4S now and be gentle on the throtlle.. but do you trust yourself?
I'd start with two 3S until I can do powerloops with confidence, and that's not today.
Get cheap at roughly $30 each, and around 1500mAh to get the most flight time/experience, forget lightweight ultra expensive 100C fake-rating 900mAh like you were racing for $2,000 championship.

Video Transmitter: preferably small & power adjustable, 25mW when flying with others and 200mW when flying alone.
DO NOT turn on 600mW it will simply burn unless you fly very fast all the time, when cold..
Also never power the copter without an antenna, Vtx will also cook.

Goggles: check if it accepts both PAL and NTSC, depending your camera.

Radio receiver: depends on your radio transmitter/remote obviously, I'd suggest going FrSky if you're naked. Check the difference between Mode1 & Mode2 before buying, Google will help.
No money and geek: Devo7e + FrSky/small toys multi-module, can control FrSky & TinyWhoop-like toys but requires some good knowledge on hacking/soldering/configuration.
No money and newbie: Turnigy Evolution is having some hype recently, but does not work with FrSky receivers. You probably need to open this link twice for it to work btw.

EDIT:
M5 size nylocks cuz the aluminum stock ones suck.
Blue Loctite or similar cuz vibrations will loosen the screws.
M3 screws cuz you never have the right size.
M3 nylon stand-offs cuz they break in crashes, you can get a pack of different sizes too.
75W soldering iron and it's the minimum, in this hobby you'll prolly want a station (you'll find good-enough ones at $60 on Amazon)

I'm still experimenting with different lubricants and cleaning sprays but the best so far:

1. No spray cleaning or lubricant works as well as taking it apart, completely cleaning it and lubricating it. Dust gums up oil. If you can afford to pay a professional to clean and service your typewriter, do so, the difference in the action of the keys is phenomenal.
   
   
2. I bought a Super Silent with sticky keys off E-bay and fixed it with these two products. Mass Air Flow sensor cleaner, and Dry Lube. Use the spray cleaner to clean out as much gunk as you can and the the spray lube to get things slippery again. (It takes a couple of sprayings combined with moving everything you want lubricated.)
   
   Dry Lube is spray Teflon that does not attract dust. This solution worked but does not completely clean out all the dust or make the action like new.
   
   I am presently disassembling my Super Silent and after properly cleaning it, I will experiment with various oils, PTFE(Teflon), and wax/ceramic lubricants and compare how they affect the action of the keys.
   
   For all parts other than the keys I am already convinced that dry lube is a better solution than any oil because not only doesn't it attract dust but you can blow out any dust with compressed air.
   
   
   
   

Get a service manual and go through all the general maintenance aspects of your motorcycle and learn everything about it real well. Lubricate all the cables, drive train, change all the fluids and filters, inspect and clean the battery and the battery cables and basically learn everything you can on this bike. Make sure it has good tires.

Here’s a chart which along with a multimeter will help you troubleshoot or test your battery and charging circuit. Cleaning the battery cables on both ends clears up a lot of problems.

https://m.imgur.com/a/KVGGY

I’d like to see pictures of your bike, see if you can post them here and especially if you see a problem show us a picture because that really helps a lot.

Run a full can of seafoam through a full tank of gas to help clean up the system and all the passageways inside the carburetor.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002JN2EU/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_c_6NKYAbKYPQ8AH

If you haven’t got one, get a battery tender like this one.

Battery Tender Plus 021-0128, 1.25 Amp Battery Charger is a Smart Charger, it will Fully Charge and Maintain a Battery at Proper Storage Voltage without the Damaging Effects Caused by Trickle Chargers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00068XCQU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3wB7AbK953D28


Many screws on metric bikes aren’t actually Philips, they are special, here’s a set that will keep you from buggering up your screw heads, especially useful on older bikes where they are real tight.

Hozan JIS-4 JIS Screwdriver Set (NEW 3rd. Gen) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A7WAHTU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kBB7AbGCN238A


Have fun and let us know how things work out!

Make sure you're not suffering from a combo-problem:

.

I clean switches by doing a combination of sandpaper and electronics spray cleaner. I found the WD-40 electronics cleaner spray to be hands-down better than CRC Quick Cleaner spray. But neither one would remove corrosion from inside the switch itself. The sandpaper (facing upwards) did remove both the green battery leakage crap and the brownish corrosion from inside the switch. I slid the sandpaper in and then sprayed the electronics contact spray on. Be careful not to leave any paper shards get loose from the sandpaper itself. Just move it straight back and forth without angling. Keeping it at a simple 90° angle from the face of the power switch itself will save it from tearing off at the edges.

.

Check and clean the battery contacts in the battery compartment. Even after cleaning the switch a bunch, the on/off flickering continued. It was a crudded battery contact that was making it happen.

.

The GBA unit I was working on looked brand new on the outside. The inside had battery leakage on both sides of the battery compartment. Funny how the battery compartment itself was sparkling clean. There's not much you can do when buying electronic units online, especially when a previous owner somewhere in its lifespan wanted to move the unit down the line from themselves. But after many hours of steady work, the light is solid as a rock and doesn't flicker one iota when touching any part of the power switch.

.


edit: also want to mention that the unit I was talking about above did not have any power or lights at all when I first received it. It took a long time to get it to start flickering a small amount of red light. Then the green light started to flicker at times, too, when moving the switch back and forth rapidly. I had to repeatedly disassemble, clean, partially reassemble, put in batteries and flick the switch a bunch.... just to try and get a sign of life out of the thing. Up until yesterday morning, I would've sworn on a stack of H.P. Lovecraft novels that the motherboard was blown. But I had some time last night and decided to play around with different cleaning methods. So glad that I did.

Small gun related tip.

Loctite is your BEST friend. Anything that unscrews, or loosens with a thread on it, should get a small dab. Purple is lighter than Blue (Red is the strongest). If you're worried about the strength of the screw head, use Purple.

http://amzn.com/B0002UEMZ2 \ http://amzn.com/B0002KKTT0

Use screwdrivers that are "hollow ground". Meaning, for a flat bit, they should not be shaped like normal screwdrivers. A normal screwdriver actually usually looks more like a wedge than an straight block being inserted into the screw head. Here's a nice picture:

http://makezine.com/review/tool-review-garrett-wade-gunsmithing-screwdrivers/

You don't have to run out and buy fancy screwdrivers. Grab a metal file, and carefully file the sides of a cheap bit so it is more square. Keeps your screws pretty.

Last bit of advice, Dremels work really REALLY quick. Be careful!

You can put a trigger stop yourself if you'd like, that will reduce the overtravel. Check this out:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DgBprD635HM

Have fun, stay safe!

For cleaning use Mineral Spirits. If the letters have a thick coating of ink use a small brass brush with mineral spirits. (odorless mineral spirits are available at every hardware store. It is the safer modern equivalent to Varisol.)

If I am correct and the Smith Corona has a sealed bottom. You want to take the bottom plate off to clean it. Using a dropper or Q-tips put little amounts on all the moving parts and then move them letting excess mineral spirits drip out the bottom. Repeat until the part is clean and moves freely. Wipe gunk off from all the none moving parts.

Traditionally only certain parts of the typewriter are lubricated with 10w machine oil. (Sewing machine oil.) Everyone including me use too much the first time. But even if you use the proper amount dust still sticks to it.


Use Liquid Wrench Teflon spray to lubricate all the moving parts. (It is cheaper to get it from an auto parts store or Wal-Mart.) It works as well as 10w oil and because it is dry dust doesn't stick to it. Spray everywhere, quickly wipe it off anywhere you don't want a coating of white dust.

I recommend the Liquid Wrench because it worked best of all the ones I tried. Do not use the Dupont Teflon spray because its "Patented Bonding," agent means it is much harder to clean from anywhere you don't want it.

Okay, it might still be fixable. Go get some "contact cleaner". This is the electronics stuff, not the stuff for your eyes. A local electronics store, or digikey in a pinch. Huh, amazon carries it, so there you go. This should do: http://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00CMT9TFY

Clean the board with the contact cleaner and a toothbrush (you'll throw it out later; a cheap one works awesome, flat style, not the ridgy ones with rubber). You'll have to get in and scrub the board a little, making sure you get all the goop out, especially around the chips.

Use common sense. You're getting rid of gummy residue, it won't require scrubbing until the bristles fall out.

Believe it or not, static with this cleaning method is usually not a problem; the wetness of the cleaner keeps your board protected.

Let dry, put back together, hope for the best.

If all else fails, pick up another one at a pawn shop. (I found my PS2 on the side of the road. Gave it to a GF who's now my ex, womp womp.)

Source for cleaning instructions: I'm an electrical engineer.

This is a great write up - love seeing this type of content.

To others thinking about doing this work yourself - it is extremely easy and can be done in the comfort of your driveway with some jack stands. The lift makes your life easier, but it's very doable without. Pay particularly close attention to loosing the the fill bolt before you loosen the drain bolt to save yourself the potential of calling a flatbed to bail you out of that jam.

Here's the fluid pump I bought that works great: https://www.amazon.com/Plews-55001-Lubrimatic-Standard-Bottles/dp/B000BQW5LK/

I just did/am doing my headliner (need to put it back in) this week and I used Permatex Body Shop Heavy Duty Headliner and Carpet Adhesive. It's item #27828, bright orange can with a blue top. Seems to work great! I used just under 2 cans for my main headliner board. You should get some high quality headliner foam. Usually local upholstery places will have it in sheets. Just avoid any kind of heavy and/or non foam backed material (if you want it to last and look nice) and you should be fine. Also, remember to get a star bit for the rear seat belts. You can get one at Autozone.. I think it was 45 but I can't remember exactly off the top of my head.

Here's the adhesive. You can get it at any car store:
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-27828-Headliner-Adhesive-Aerosol/dp/B000HBNU9K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417054160&sr=8-1&keywords=permatex+27828

EDIT:
I've made an album with my current headliner progress, just to give you an idea.

http://imgur.com/a/ZdCNU

As you can see in the pictures, the spray is pretty heavy duty. Hope this helps.

If you can't find inexpensive panels from a local u-pull-r-parts type of salvage yard, you can DIY patch those panels with a 3M fiberglass repair kit. Prep for repair and paint will be much easier with a power sander, but you can do with hand sanding.

Feather in paint with a rattle-can, and I think you can make it look decent and save the bulk of the money for mechanical stuff.

(Source: I have treated my older car like this -- decent cosmetics to save time and money for mechanical stuff.)

Definitely do the shocks and brakes yourself! You'll save yourself nearly a thousand dollars and they really aren't even that hard to do with common hand tools.

How to replace brake pads and rotors

How to replace shock absorbers

How to replace struts (if this is what your car has rather than separate shocks and springs)

You really shouldn't need a full brake system flush for a car that's this new, but if you really want to...

The alignment will need to be done by a professional though, but all the other stuff can be done yourself for probably $150-200. You'll learn a ton about how your car works and how to fix it, and you'll probably get a lot of supplies that you didn't know you needed, like silicone paste lubricant for the brake guide pins, copper anti-sieze, and thread locker, all supplies that can be used for many, many different things, not just this one brake job!

I hope this all is helpful. I've been doing this stuff at home for many years so feel free to reach out if you need any help at all.

Its a pretty amazing product.

Its a gas additive and stabilizer that you can also just straight up run your engine on with zero gas. In fact, that is the SOP for cleaning the crap out of old engines at the place I used to work.

You can get it at any auto-parts store.

I have used Seafoam for 20 years in over 10 vehicles with great success. I pour in 1/4 of a can about every season (so, four times a year) and if I winterize my bike, I use it as a gas stablilizer.

I have run gas that sat in a tank with seafoam for THREE YEARS and the gas was good, bike fired right up and didn't even smoke.

https://www.amazon.com/Sea-Foam-SF-16-Motor-Treatment/dp/B0002JN2EU/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1497560686&sr=1-1&keywords=seafoam

Here is a video showing what it can do. 1:33 you can hear the before. 9:16 is the sound after.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=agAWXnT4-EQ

I have seen numerous vehicles "restored" like the one in the video above.

This is a great looking figure. I have Spark Toy's War Within Optimus Prime and he is an amazing figure. Quality is second to none and the engineering is nearly perfect.

One note about this review:

DO NOT USE WD-40 ON A PLASTIC TOY!

Petroleum dissolves plastics and WD-40 isn't a lubricant anyway, it is a solvent. If you have a hinge or slider that is too stiff to safely move, get some powdered graphite. It is a dry lubricant, won't harm plastic and any excess can easily be wiped or brushed away.

You're in luck. I've broken those pegs off before, too. The fix is easy, but it's going to cost. It's going to cost you all of about eight bucks.

This is for the broken peg. Clean the area of the peg and the sidecover. Scuff the hell out of it with high-grit sandpaper. If you don't have any, cut it up in a cross hatch pattern with a sharp knife. Don't cut all the way through (!) but you want the surface really scuffed up so the epoxy can get in all the little crevaces and hold everything together.

Once it's cleaned, clean it with brake cleaner or acetone or something that makes sure to get any oils out. (Or skip this step. I have before. If you're unlucky and you skip it, you'll have problems.)

Put epoxy on both surfaces, push the peg into exactly the right place then goop a ton on at the seams and up the sides of the peg. You want enough so that it changes the slope going up a bit - don't be stingy.

I don't have experience with the emblem, but I can't imagine it's much different.

I haven't used that exact product that I linked, but any plastic-specific two part epoxy should do the trick. Not any two-part epoxy, but any that's specifically for plastic.

Good luck! When you finally finish the repair, reply to this comment and let me know how it went. It's going to be fine!

>Can you give me some examples of the cheap purpose made cleaners in case i cant get kerosene?

http://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Motorcycle-Degreaser-Sprockets-11-Ounce/dp/B003OBM5EQ/
http://www.amazon.com/Maxima-75920-Clean-Up-Chain-Cleaner/dp/B000WKATCM/

If you have a combined cleaner and lube that'll work just great. Apply to the inside of the chain, scrub, lube again and wipe clean.
Do your best not to get the lube on the tyres and if you do, clean that stuff off.

What do the spark plugs look like? Are they fouled at all? If they are clean, you are most likely running completely fine.

The throttle response on 1.8 liter engines is a lot slower than you're used to with a 1.6. It's one of my main points when the classic 1.6vs1.8 threads pop up. I prefer the 1.6 because it's happier to rev and responds quicker. Other people prefer the power.

When you start your car in the video, it sounds healthy. It seems to take quite a normal amount of time to crank and start, and seems happy to do so. I don't think you have a problem there.

Rotella T6 is a well known oil in the NB Miata community. Many people swear by it. It's Shell's high detergent oil. (Yes, it's "Heavy Duty Diesel", but its within the acceptable range of viscosity as well as has API SM qualification for gasoline engines. Plus, hundreds of people here use it)

http://www.amazon.com/Shell-Rotella-550019921-Synthetic-Diesel/dp/B005CHT4W6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463093322&sr=8-1&keywords=rotella+t6

Wow that sucks my man

Its just fiberglass. You could have it done by any auto or boat repair place, or just get yourself a little glass mat, resin and hardner, and patch it up yourself. Its surprisingly easy. link for material

Prep is everything with fiberglass, sand and clean the area with acetone or tackcloth. Follow the directions on the fiberglass application. Have some acetone on hand to clean up anything before the resin sets. Touch it up with a little paint after it cures.

Might not turn out beautiful but it'll do the job and be a great intro to fiberglass!

That first crack is just beginning, the end caps become really brittle from years of heat cycling and the o-rings that seal them aren't much better.

$50-80 will get you a new radiator (check rockauto.com) and it's not a bad idea to do both hoses and the thermostat if it's easily accessible. Skill wise it's one of the easier repairs you can perform on the average automobile.

If this is more of a "I need to drive this for another week then it's scrap" situation, buy a fiberglass repair kit from your local auto/hardware store (eg. https://www.amazon.com/3M-420-Fiberglass-Resin-Repair/dp/B000BO9NOO/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=fiberglass+repair+kit&qid=1558469553&s=gateway&sr=8-5), use a razor to make some cross-hatched gouges that cover the crack and a couple inches past, clean thoroughly with some alcohol then apply two layers of resin+mat according to the product's instructions. Let that cure overnight and it should bond nicely with the hatched areas and keep it going until the next crack appears.

This is good. If you have a small job and don't want to mix up some epoxy, JB weld might be a good option. Its simple, works well, and is cheap. Good luck!

​

https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-50139-Plastic-Adhesive/dp/B01IBOK7FE/ref=asc_df_B01IBOK7FE/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312151168520&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5903731137153641802&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004400&hvtargid=aud-799711277694:pla-625516023832&psc=1

Either dry graphite lube like this, available at any Wal-Mart, Target, or auto parts store, or if you want the really good stuff then try something like this molybdenum-based lubricant.

Either way, instead of just applying it to the outside of the hinge like you can with WD-40 (because it's a penetrating oil and will sink into the joints), with either of the above you would want to remove the pins from the hinges, anoint the pins with the lube, and then rehang the door.

At that point you can prepare to enjoy years of squeak-free hinges.

On the other hand, at my house the dreaded previous owner sprayed all the hinges with WD-40. I 100% guarantee they were smooth and silent for days or even weeks afterward.

Then the WD-40 dried in place, created a thin layer of basically lacquer inside the hinge, that layer was then ground into sharp particles of lacquer dust by the moving hinge parts, and those dust particles served as abrasives which ground the interior surfaces of the hinge into metallic dust. Yes, dust. It seeps from every hinge in the house, if you run your finger along the hinge you get metallicized and it won't wash off for days, and boy howdy do they all squeak ridiculously.

Please please please don't ever WD-40 a hinge, unless it belongs to a bad person you don't have the guts to kill.

Just understand that the xr650l is really restricted from factory for emissions reasons. If you buy a 100% stock xr650l like I did, expect to spend money/time on doing a couple things. Which, is was fun in my case, built not bought.

If the bike you buy doesn't have these things, expect to do these right off the bat:

REJET! The xr650l runs lean from factory for emission reasons. Running lean is bad for engine overtime (can make engine run hotter than it should and doesn't allow for enough gas to help lubricate the cylinder walls). If anything, make sure this is done first.

Air filter: don't buy the K&N filter. It allow a lot of air flow because it has bad filtration. Yes, it's bad for your engine. Either keep on the stock filter, or go with a UNI foam filter (like I did, and I suggest it)

Again, the engine is restricted from factory, change that exhaust slip-on. Stay with the stock header at first, it's sufficient. I got the EVO-R Big Gun exhaust (loud and proud)


Desmog: You buy a desmog kit off of ebay for like $16. Take off all the emission bullshit and the bike will behave a little better. Takes weight off the bike and looks a lot better without all that clutter

xr650r front stroke or the other one /u/Kilroy_1911 mentioned. If I could go back in time I would get the one that the guy on ADVRider is selling on ebay. The xr650r sprocket doesn't fit perfectly, I had to get an old router bit and grind off some of the inside of the xr650r sprocket for the retaining clip to go on. I went with the Moose xr650r front sprocket

WPS rear brake light. The factory rear brake light thing looks bad IMHO. drill holes and zipties the license plate to the fender. Read the reviews. The stock bulb that comes with it is garbage. Go ahead and order the one they talk about in the comments.


__

That's my "xr650l stage 1 upgrade" suggestion.

Other strong suggestions:

Get some bark busters. They will save your levers and perches. I waited too long to do this and ended up have to replace my clutch perch and clutch/brake levers because dropping the bike on the trail. So, procrastinating on bark busters ended up costing me a little bit of money. Bark busters are a go

If you plan on doing serious trail riding, D606 rear tire is great. Don't get D606 front tire



Changing oil before you drive a vehicle gives you 5+hp, or was that Gran Turismo 3 A Spec? Either way, the manual says to use Honda's GN4 (dinosaur) oil, but lots of people go with Rotella T6 synthetic oil. Without getting into the debate, synthetic oil is better, especially for oil cooled engines, as oil is just as much as a coolant as water in a water cooled engine, and synthetic will cool an engine better than Dino oil will. So, go with T6 oil.




Here's my old write up on my mods (it's outdated to where I'm at with mods)

Slow and smooth when letting the clutch out. Also, Allow the RPMs to drop to avoid the jerking/jolting. Pretty much treat it Zohan. Make it silky smooth

Being a 2017, i'd assume you're still in the break in period (or around there), which doesn't help matters.

I'd recommend the removal of the clutch spring as well to provide more driver feedback, making things that much easier.

If none of that helps.... maybe try a different oil like Motul 300 or Red Line MT-90

Thanks all for replying!

As far as I can tell, the shifter does not drain to the transmission itself, at least not in my car.

I ended up removing the reverse light switch with an adjustable wrench. I'd guess it's about 20 mm. The switch is about level with the fill plug, only closer to the front of the car.

Once you have the switch loose, empty out the old oil from the drain plug. Loosen it with a 1/2 in square recess. Clean off any metal shavings caught in the plug's magnet and tighten it back on after the oil is out. Don't be a gorilla about torquing anything down. Before fully removing the reverse switch, make note of the two wires and disconnect them.

I used a hand pump to add the gear oil, but you could probably feed a long hose above to the engine and fill using a funnel. I added 2 quarts of Red Line MT-90 (75W-90), which is a touch under how much the manual calls for (2 liters). Clean the area after you're done, and dispose of the junk oil responsibly.

So, the car is back on the road again, at least until I try to fix (break) anything else. There's a bit less transmission noise now, and shifting is slightly smoother. The biggest difference is the transmission tunnel temperature. Before, the shift lever and ash tray area would get almost too hot to touch. Everything runs much cooler now, so I'm happy!

Hope this helps anyone that may search through here in the future!

I'm probably gonna die, but I use a quick blast of automotive brake parts cleaner to get my cams clean, dry them with compressed air, and apply Liquid Wrench Teflon spray lube. Seems to get the cams good and clean without scrubbing, and keeps things nice and smooth operating for a long time without attracting gunk.

that bike's bearings are likely in great shape, but dry. the original schwinn bearings are better than any modern (chinese) replacements you can buy, other than NOS schwinn parts found on ebay.

i think the biggest problem you're going to have with that particular bike, as a novice, is the brake and derailleur removal, replacement, and adjustment. not impossible, but they can be problematic.

the best way to clean the bearings before repacking them is to soak them overnight or longer in a can of carburetor cleaner. then pack them with actual wheel bearing grease.

schwinn-specific tires are required. tubes are interchangeable, but tires are not.

• For cleaning: DuPont Motorcycle Degreaser
  
  I used to always buy those until every can at Walmart started leaking directly from where the nozzle attaches instead of spraying out through the straw, so I stopped buying it. People in the comments also say the formula isn't as good as it used to be. Since then I've been using WD40 as a degreaser which works fine, but kerosene can be used as well.
  
  
• To make your life easier: Grunge Brush
  
  You're going to save yourself a ton of time with one of these. Get one. Spray, brush, wipe with rag, repeat until clean.
  
  
• For the end: DuPont Chain Saver
  
  I've been using this every time and it is great. Most people will recommend it. Make sure you get it on the inside of the chain as well as the orings. Gently wipe off the excess so it doesn't fling all over your bike.
  
  That chain of yours looks like death and has probably never been cleaned before. Get as much crap off of it as you can, then see if there's any significant rust or oring damage. If the chain is that bad, I can only imagine the chain slack is terrible. The owner probably also neglected to do simple things such as the brake fluid or coolant, maybe even tire pressure.
  
  Edit: Clean the sprockets while you're at it.

Been through this before...neglected it until I put about $100 of fluid in it, $20 part, https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Honda-Civic-Power-Steering-Hose-Lower-Return-Line-OEM-53721SNAA00/, I'd advise dying the line https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002M4G24U/ and looking with a uv light to make sure. I paid a dealer $100 ish to install it, probably could have done it myself in an hour but they degreased the bottom of the car, flushed the system and checked for leaks again, whatever works for you. Not 100% sure that this is what is going on with you but what happened for me is that over time the pipe gets eaten away by road salt and debris and you basically just gush power steering fluid. Best of luck.

Maxima Clean Up Chain Cleaner on the chain, Grunge brush if necessary, then get the bike wet, spray it liberally with S100 and let it soak in for about 5 minutes, hose it off, and wipe down select bits with a towel.
Afterwards I'll put a little WD40 on the chain, then properly lube it when dry.

It's a chore but relatively easy and I'm always happy with the results.

Thanks, I'll try the graphite powder first. Will any graphite powder do? I looked up this. I will probably try to get a remote as well. Will a remote for the car work right away once programmed or does a car need to have a system installed? Thanks for the help!

This is the one I bought: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00W6Q3B1G/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It has a bonus feature - the lid is perfect for standing a pen barrel vertically while eye droppering your ink into it :)

Don't know if GCs are special, but generally yep, that's exactly it. Just make sure to do it on level ground. Have a fluid pump ready to go though; sometimes you don't have enough space to properly tip a bottle. I use this one for lots of stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQW5LK

I've got a 2001 Civic and I replaced it myself. It was honestly really, really easy. Just took a little elbow grease and a little research on youtube/google. It cost me about 50 bucks in total. I used this video as a guide and this video is a little more recent (I haven't watched through it fully)

You wanna buy foam-backed fabric from jo-anns or any store similar to it, a metal brush, some razor blades, and some adhesive spray like this one.

What kind of car do you drive? I'm betting you could look up your car on youtube along with the correct key words to find out more info. Since you have an older car, it's probably gonna be easier to service yourself than if it were a new car.

Yes, this is the stuff I use. Works great and doesn't pick up too much dirt. Also, we've found that the Maxima chain cleaner works pretty well to get everything off.

The octane level of the gas should not affect the idle. You could try changing out the fuel but I'd bet there is some other issue. I had a '72 cb350 myself for several years and never saw any difference in the running condition based on the gas type.

The idle jet inside each carburetor has a very small hole that allows gas to pass through. More than likely there is some small debris blocking one of the idle jet passageways.

Can't tell from your picture, but you should definitely have an in-line fuel filter that keeps debris from the gas tank from getting into the carbs.

I have heard of people having luck with running Seafoam through their tank to clear out the carbs. But in my experience owning a CB350, removing and cleaning the carbs was a process I inevitably had to do a couple of times a year. It really isn't that difficult to do.

Edit:Spelling

I've had success UV dye:

https://smile.amazon.com/Interdynamics-Certified-Fuel-Systems-ounce/dp/B002M4G24U/

Here's some cheap blacklights:

https://smile.amazon.com/Interdynamics-Certified-Detection-Glasses-438/dp/B003JOB594/

https://smile.amazon.com/POCKETMAN-UV-Ultraviolet-Blacklights-Flashlight-Detecting/dp/B01FS64GNC/

That being said, ih8mud is a much better place for these questions. It's much more active.

I've had great success with the dupont chain cleaner and lube.

26k on my chain right now

http://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Motorcycle-Degreaser-Sprockets-11-Ounce/dp/B003OBM5EQ/ref=pd_bxgy_sg_img_y

I second Super Lube.

I do, however, use the silicone compounds on the compression train. Silicone grease is a little bit lighter than the synthetic, leads to less of the "suction" effect.

For high speed setups: Oil

For much more longevity: Grease

A quality white lithium grease works great for the drive train as well.

I suggest avoiding nearly all "airsoft" rebranded grease/oils, they're heavily marked up/ repackaged industrial standards.

If the hinge is unglued, it's fixable with J-B Weld Plastic Bonder. If the screen is undamaged, it can be glued or mounted back. If it is damaged, laptop screen replacements aren't too expensive.

I had to repair an Acer Nitro 5 laptop using J-B Weld. The laptop was closed and was accidentally knocked off a table. The hinge cracked and separated from the screen and ripped out a screw holding the screen. Luckily the screen was fine. After using J-B Weld it was stronger than the surrounding plastic. The key is to let it cure for at least 24 hours. Clean the surfaces, removing any oils. Clamp everything together to ensure good bonding.

Thanks!

This: Loctite Heavy Duty Threadlocker, 0.2 oz, Blue 242, Single https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I1RSNS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KNelzbNETSX7V

Versus this: Permatex 24200 Medium Strength Threadlocker Blue, 6 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002UEMZ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YMelzb052MTNF

Which do you recommend?

As others have already said, Sea-Foam. My carbed KLR loves it.

It's a great carbon cleaner, and I use Sea-Foam for first-stage cleaning of firearms.

Further cleaning and lubrication of my firearms is done with Ballistol (sorry Hoppe's fans). A fantastic lubricant. Too expensive for things like regular chain maintenance, but still a must have for any DIYer.

HTH!

So then the fluids are the same?

I'm having trouble understanding the difference between this and this.

Is this just marketing from the company?


Yeah, I plan on buying these fluids myself in the future and having the mechanic do it, I just wanted to be sure I didn't put something where it didn't belong.

Thanks for the help, man. Solid advice as usual :)

Don’t know if it’s in the right place, but I have a ‘03 ce Jetta, and I removed the headliner last summer because is was beginning to sag. This summer I want to wrap it up.
I’m looking for a nice fabric (suede like) that’s will not fade in a year.
Planning on using this glue

Also, my interior is beige, don’t know is I’m going to the a-b-c pillar and put them black. Kinda look like this minus the seats
Or I stay with all beige anyway the dash board is black.

Yes, you need to use Subaru Super Coolant if you don't flush all of the old coolant out.

You can order it on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Subaru-SOA868V9270-Super-Coolant/dp/B007NLOZAU

If you can, buy a contact cleaner spray with a nozzle like [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00CMT9TFY) and spray it under the rubber cap under the stick, then press down the stick and move it in all directions for a bit, it should fix it.

Also, try to keep your switch in a closed off place or in a case when not in use, because the 'drifting' came back slightly for me after a few days and I had to spray it again because I'm guessing contact with air or dust is the reason this is happening. I'm sure that this is only a problem with some joy sticks, as my right joystick is in pristine preciseness even after all this time.

yup. I soaked my bell-crank in a can of Chem-Dip until the new cable arrived. Took it out and gave it a good scrubbing, lubed it up, worked like a charm.

http://www.amazon.com/Berryman-0996-Chem-Dip-Carburetor-Cleaner/dp/B00DSMEL2A

Try dipping your carb. This stuff worked pretty well for a Solex & and an Edelbrock in my last two project vehicles, managed to make the "go-at-it-with-a-pick-and-brush" phase way easier.

I'm using the T6 synthetic and working smooth. I use subscribe and save from Amazon with a buddy and we buy a few 4 quart jugs every 6 months.

We are using it in a 96 cherokee with 120kand 2 96 grand cherokees with 200k+ miles


https://www.amazon.com/Shell-Rotella-550019921-Synthetic-Diesel/dp/B005CHT4W6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1465582556&sr=8-2&keywords=t6

-Trackside Front/Rear stands for easy cleaning

• Degreaser
  
• Chain Brush
  
• Chain Lube
  
• Waterless Wash/Wax
  
• Wheel Cleaner
  
• Wheel Brush
  
  I clean and lube the chain about every 500 miles.
  Never pressure wash your electrical components (I just don’t pressure wash at all). Other than that, just changing the oil per the schedule and making sure everything runs fine.

If it is a leak and not just burning oil, I've used this with great success. Add to your engine oil, run car for a day or so, in a dark garage or outside in the dark, shine an infrared light in the engine, the leak will stand out very clearly with a bright yellow stain. Ultraviolet bulbs are less than $5 at home depot and probably Amazon. This additive can be ordered from any auto supply shop.




http://www.amazon.com/Interdynamics-374CS-Engine-Transmission-Dye/dp/B002M4G24U/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0NAV606F0JZ0XYXARBPG

It's your lucky day!

I happen to have that set and it's easy to fix. While it's possible that you're having a different problem, a very common problem with old computer speakers (and Klipsches in particular) is a problem with the volume knob itself.

There's a very good chance that all you need to do is pull off the volume knob and spray some of this into it. https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00CMT9TFY

Google for more so you don't think I'm crazy :)
https://www.google.com/search?q=dirty+potentiometer+contact+cleaner&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8

I Delided my 7700k and lost a solid 15c and I use a NZXT AIO Cooler.
I used these 2 things and worked like a charm.
Thermal Grizzly Liquid
And this Helpful tool
You can go the extra mile and use plain nail varnish to help with protecting the resistors and a little tiny bit of [This] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000AL6WLA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
My next step is for a custom water loop but planning to do it in an itx case when I upgrade next.
Hopefully this was of some use.

I’d also suggest getting some blue threadlocker . This stuff is great and really stops things from coming undone unless intentionally unscrewed. Make sure to avoid red threadlocker, as it’s way too good. The red stuff pretty much ensures that once it’s screwed on it will never come off. The blue is less permanent. Just apply a little bit to the threading and you’re good to go!

My Haves:

Padded motorcycle underwear. Beaded seat cover. open toed shoes/sandals to let your feet breath on rest stops. Healthy snacks so you're not buying gas station garbage every time.

Chin skirt. Pin lock. lightweight balaclava. 5 pairs of good earplugs. comfortable in-ear headphones. Lots of podcasts. Nanotips

Heated grips. Heated jacket. a plan for how to get completely waterproof (you+your bike) on the side of the road at a moments notice. Ram mount for your phone. Valentine One radar detector and Visual Alert. Analog tire pressure gauge with blowoff valve. Threadlocker stick. A tank bag that is comfy to lean on. electrical tape. Zip ties. bungee cord. Chain lube. Extra hex wrenches so you can quickly tighten bolts.

I have my X2 enclosers sealed up pretty tight with https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AL6WLA but I am still going to limit my rides as much as possible once we get into the winter snow/ice/road salt season. Like others have said, my main concern is going through patches where salt or brine has been applied to road and trail surfaces because it is majorly corrosive to _all_ materials. Nothing worse than salt + moisture.

I wouldn't call it a fix as such, but have you tried spraying some electrical contact cleaner eg. into the pots and faders?

I've got a beat up A&H Xone:32 and an occasional spray has kept it ticking along nicely.

My binding screws came with Blue Loctite pre-applied. It was the paste version, not the liquid. You can buy Loctite paste that comes in something like a gluestick type package that won't get everywhere. Just rub the threads of the screw on it.

Medium Strength (Blue) Loctite is 100% safe for the inserts and the paste keeps it off the Binding disk. Remember the motto: "A little dab will do ya." Less is more with loctite.

I 've got Silverhook SGPGT90 3676 for 6,5 €. Reviews are great as well as the price, didn't have time to apply though. It for my MFG Crosswind pedals, one spring is squeaky.

Well technically you can use WD40 to clean electronics and it does work really well.

https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00CMT9TFY

Take your headlight out, remove bulbs/wires/screws, bake it in the oven for 20mins at 200degrees, pull it apart, and reseal.

Then place it back in the oven, same temp, for 10 minutes to warm it up and squeeze the two pieces nice and tight.

I recently painted the chrome trim of my headlights and the process wasn't hard. I used this black silicone sealant to make sure water stayed out.

If you are using nuts and bolts, I'd recommend Threadlocker Blue (It's available at auto and hardware stores too) it's common name is Permatex. It's a liquid silicone that you coat the threads of the screw with, right before put the nuts on to secure the plate. It fills the the threads, dries quickly, and prevents loosening from vibration.

Good luck.

Oof.

Your future. It contains this: https://www.amazon.com/Berryman-Products-996-Chem-Dip-Carburetor/dp/B00DSMEL2A

Good luck :)

The monoprice stands are great. I bought 2 dual screen mounts to put on my lab's work bench. I got ones with the articulationg arm. The one that ovaltineEuroFormula will work for what you want.

Pro Tip: do yourself a favor and get a bunch of washer, LocTite and these type of thumb screws

I makes for taking on and off monitor tool less. The washers help spread the weight of the monitors. And the LocTite helps keep the bolts in. I do performance automotive work on the side as a hobby and I use that stuff on everything.

I didn't do any of that when I first did the install and regretted it once we started moving the articulating arm around and the bolts started to loosen a bit. Replaced everything from above and no problems for over a year and a half of use/abuse.

The same product on Amazon, with shipping to Australia.

I use Inox MX6, which you can get from Jaycar or BCF, at the recommendation of someone on here a few months back. It works well.

MTB have used the WD-40 lithium grease spraycans in some of their videos, so they at least don't have a problem with using aerosols. I've also seen some people suggest silicon sprays, like this one.

Speaking to the AX15, mine refuses to engage properly, especially in the Colorado winters, without be filled with MT-90. I thought I was going to have to do full rebuild, but just that MT-90 made it good enough. 190,000 miles and only other maintenance has been clutch, flywheel, throwout bearing and slave cylinder (all done together).

I don't know how much access you have to commercial goods right now, but there's a product called "Sea Foam" that worked wonders on my lawnmower. It was having problems, choking out when I first started it or when the motor was under heavy load (thick grass).

You use an ounce or two per gallon, and it helps dissolve gunk in the engine. After two treated tanks (roughly 1.5 gallons worth), the lawnmower was running like new.

It might work, it might not. If you can get a hold of some, it's worth a shot. You should be able to find it in auto parts stores or home improvement stores (if there's any to be found)

Diesel and kerosene are damn near the same thing. You could also just buy a purpose made o-ring chain cleaner. It's pretty much diesel with aerosol if that's the brand I'm thinking of.

Make sure you give it a really good rinse afterwards and then lube it good. Seal it if you want too with chain wax, but I just keep a small bottle of chain lube under the back seat of my bike and spray it every few rides.

Go to the dealer and ask for super coolant. It's blue and it cools things.

Subaru Super Blue

Get Loctite, put a little on the screw and screw it back in.

This is medium strength, it should be strong enough, but they do have heavy duty if you want to go all out. https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-506166-Medium-Strength-Threadlocker/dp/B0053ZNMDE/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=loctite&qid=1554408114&s=gateway&sr=8-6

Catback with diffuser - 450

Flossy knob - 120

Smoked side markers - 30 (Markers: 25+5 for amber bulbs)

Swede dash wrap - 70

--------------------------------------------

Total: $670

other junk:
$24 - mini repair kit and some metric wrench sockets.
$10 - digital tire gauge.
$30 - tire pump that runs on the cigarette lighter and fits under the mat with the spare tire.
$30 - a jug of Subie Super Coolant.
$17 - a phone mount (don't recommend it)

Stuff I dont care to price out:

• Extra phone cables
  
• Pack of microfiber towels.
  
  -------------------------------------------------------------------------
  
  On the list to come:
  
  
• Smoked Valentis with red light bar
  
• Matching smoked Valenti 4th light
  
• Rays Gramlights 57Xtremes 17x9 in black
  
• 245/40/17 AS3 or similar tires for the new wheels
  
  
  

I would go to ex500.org and register on the forums first. Anyways here's my top mods:

• Replaced clutch springs with stiffer ones - this helps at higher RPMs because the stock ones start weak and get weaker with age $10.80
  
  
• Replaced rear shock with stocker from a new gen ninjette because it's a lot stiffer and raises the bike a bit $49.99
  
  
• Removed the pair system because it does nothing good and with exhaust it makes popping noises $15.00
  
  
• K&N air filter installed and drilled 4 Half Inch holes in the left side of airbox $49.99
  
  
• Airbox mod requires carb tweaking so I opened up the carbs and rebuilt them for reliability $45
  
  
• Got some shorty levers 36.99
  
  
• Replaced stock ignition with Coil on Plug type ignition for an '08 ZX6R - prices vary but i got mine for 40 bucks including harness.
  
  
• New sparks gapped at .30" $8.10
  
  
• Higher quality front brakes $32.00
  
  
• Oil changed to Shell Rotella T $19.16
  
  
• Avon Roadrider tires big upgrade over stock. Prices vary I got mine for 350 installed both front and rear
  
  
• Best for last: Racetech .90kg/mm springs with gold valves $300
  
  

I've changed the fuel filter 3 times now and I always use a borrowed VCDS. Here are some helpful links.

• VW Vortex VCDS Map - Find a kind soul who will let you borrow their VCDS cable
  
• Standard Quart Bottle Pump - I have found that this is the cheapest and most reliable method to extract the existing fuel from the filter housing. The hose is small and it functions in a manner that's easier than a siphon IMO. If you don't remove the fuel, you are guaranteed to get a hell of a lot of diesel splash back once that filter comes undone from the housing cap. I still recommend using some paper towels or rags around the filter housing in case of even minor splash as you don't want to risk getting fuel on the rubber engine hoses.
  
• You will want to purchase a small fuel can to hold the new diesel as well as a clean receptacle to catch the existing fuel you remove from the housing (maybe a funnel to get the reclaimed diesel back into your tank, I usually wing that detail)
  
• How-to guide I use for filter changes - You're probably already familiar with this site but, if not, it will go into detail about everything you need to do including VCDS
  
• Don't use the "Output Tests" method described in the link above when you are using VCDS, but rather the "Basic Settings > Block 35 > On" method shown in a little blurb at the bottom for about 30 seconds x 3. This does a good job of removing any air in the fuel lines.
  
  
  Message me with any questions.

https://smile.amazon.com/Permatex-24200-Medium-Strength-Threadlocker/dp/B0002UEMZ2?sa-no-redirect=1

It says medium strength, "for when disassembly is common"

So I was doin it right then

You're on the way! Did this leak start with the oil change, has it been happening a while, or did you just notice(and not sure when it started)?

Next step is to track down where it's leaking from. If you can see wetness, follow it uphill along whatever surface it's coming down.

If you can't track it visually, you can try spreading a paper towel flat around where the drop fell from, and look for a track of oil on the paper towel. Repeat following the track. If the engine is oily though, you may just get an oily rag...

If necessary, you can use some of this with one of these, but hopefully won't need them.

The blue stuff is premixed 50/50 with distilled water so you're fine. Here's a link on Amazon but you can just grab it from the local dealer as well. http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Subaru-SOA868V9270-Super-Coolant/dp/B007NLOZAU

Here's the Toyota version they use for the FR-S/GT86: http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-Fluid-00272-GTBC1-Coolant/dp/B00AKYP114

Yes! But I fixed mine permanently with a little application of Permatex 81158 adhesive sealant silicone (just a few squirts into the weather seal, evenly spaced, on each side of the truck).$3 from Amazon

Just..not in locks please.

You want this stuff or similar.

You should be able to find it in a squeeze tube at any auto parts store, that's probably better then a tub for this anyway.

https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-10533-Lithium-Grease/dp/B004X70LZA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496931353&sr=8-1&keywords=lucas+white+lithium+grease

lube is lube,

this here is dielectric silicone grease, used for boilers and plumbing, safe for, rubber, copper, brass, plastic. is not electrically conductive. dies not dry out. this tube here can do you for more than 100 keyboards

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00W6Q3B1G

For starters, don't put it in soapy water. Water and electronics don't mix well, and you may end up with an even less functional device.

What you could try is is a contact cleaner like this one by WD-40.

Also - now that I'm reading more about Rotella T6, it seems like it's for heavy duty engines and diesel engines. Am I looking at the right product? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CHT4W6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=KVJUPJ7Q9EN0&coliid=I2S2373MP63RJ4&psc=1

Something like this this?

My suggestion is this, since you have no idea how well the car was taken care of or if it was changed at all, change it one time and drive it for a week. Then change it again and see if it helps. From there you can try 3rd party alernative if you want but these transmissions prefer OEM fluid. Not sure on this year but you typically remove the fill bolt first, then the drain bolt. Be sure to get new crush washers and clean off the debris from the drain plug. I use this pump to make it a breeze to get the fluid in with no mess. When the fluid starts to drip out you are done.

https://www.amazon.com/Plews-55001-Lubrimatic-Standard-Bottles/dp/B000BQW5LK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1505605976&sr=8-3&keywords=Fluid+pump

Long flexible hose works wonders for those awkward fillings. Something like this.

There are products specifically for that purpose. Looks like a large paint can, but will say "Carburetor and parts cleaner" or something similar on it and you can find it at any autoparts store. Like this, for example.

this stuff works well: https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00CMT9TFY , just be slow and careful with the cleaning

A lot of Turbo Subaru guys seem to swear by Rotella T6 and report reduced oil consumption compared to other oils. I've been thinking about trying it on my FXT once the weather improves.

Here are a pair of WE Lugers, the left one havint stock externals aside from the painted grips which I detailed in an earlier post, and the right one showing the results of the method detailed in this post. As with many airsoft guns, the satin black finish on the left gun looks nothing like the real thing, and lets down what is otherwise a very convincing replica.

So, here's my method for fixing that cheap paintwork, without having to strip or repaint the entire gun, and without applying bluing chemicals to Chinese mystery metal (with unpredictable results). This technique also works equally well on plastic, and can make plastic guns look much more realistic.

You'll need the following:

-Powdered graphite. You can grind up a pencil in a pinch, but it's much easier to just get powdered graphite lubricant off the Internet or your local hardware store (check by the padlocks).

-A gentle cloth for buffing, and another for applying the graphite. I use rags made from a cut-up cotton T-shirt.

-Matte varnish. I use Testor's Dullcote, but anything matte will do. You can use satin or gloss varnish for a shinier look, but you will not be able to apply additional layers of graphite after sealing.

First, squirt some graphite into a bottlecap, dip your first cloth into it, and use it to rub the graphite into the surface of the gun. If you're working on a large, flat area, you can squirt the graphite directly onto the gun and use the cloth to spread it around. Work the graphite into the surface until it has a uniform tone. Avoid handling the parts with graphite, or it'll come off on your fingers.

Once the gun is fully coated in graphite, you need to seal it to prevent the graphite from rubbing off on your hands or running off with water. Give it a few quick passes with the matte varnish, enough for a solid coat without any patchy areas. You'll notice that this will tone down the shiny metallic effect to a dull grey, this is normal.

Now, you can either call it good, or add another layer of graphite to strengthen the color and shine. The more layers you add, the greyer the gun will get. For this Artillery Luger, I did a second layer of graphite, and then sealed again with varnish.

When you're satisfied with the color and have sealed it for the last time, take your second cloth and rub down all the surfaces you applied the graphite too. Give it a little bit of force and really polish it up. This buffs the matte finish up to a mild satin, giving it that shine that real bluing has and making it look closer to how it did before sealant. If you want it to really shine, you can do a quick shot of satin or gloss varnish too and polish that in. For the Artillery Luger, I just buffed it thoroughly with the rag.

That's all it takes- it's dead simple, with no real room for error, and produces a dramatic improvement in appearance.

Bonus: A Well Webley and AGM MG42, also refinished with this method.

This is the stuff you need.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81158-Silicone-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B000AL6WLA

In case you ever need to delid it again. It'll come apart just like the stock stuff.

Works like a charm

You could try Liquid Wrench Dry Lubricant. I dont have any experience with it. But reading some Amazon reviews, it sounds like it would work.

You actually shouldn't use a liquid lubricant on a lock, it will attract and build up dust. Use graphite.

Have you tried a little graphite into the lock to maybe lube it enough to loosen the cylinder?

For reference, I mean powder graphite like this:

powder graphite

humm, try to use something like this https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00CMT9TFY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1501009941&sr=8-5&keywords=contact+cleaner

and use a old toothpaste to brush it..

https://www.amazon.com/Berryman-0996-Chem-Dip-Carburetor-Cleaner/dp/B00DSMEL2A


Something like this. Your local auto parts store should have something similar.

Yep! https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0053ZNMDE/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1524532260&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=loctite+stick

I'm thinking about getting one to eliminate the fact that the liquid stuff just kind of gets everywhere.

Try cleaning your throttle body and run a can of Seafoam in a half tank of gas and see if that helps. Also you might get one of these Blue Tooth OBD2 readers that you can use with smartphone apps like Torque. You can check error codes and watch realtime data from many of the sensors on your engine.

Is it safe to use silicone grease on stabs?

Some webs say it is dielectric, some people say it is not certified.... I have seen amazon reviews about the grease working as stabilizer lube but still want to ask here because it is my first build and dont want to mess it.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverhook-SGPGT90-Silicone-Grease-Tube/dp/B00W6Q3B1G

​

This is the grease Im about to buy.

Either get a chain brush with nylon bristles, or else use an old rag. Apply chain specific cleaner, or else kerosene, or WD-40 to the chain and cleaning tool, scrub the chain. If you haven't touched the chain in a while, you'll probably want to spend around 10 minutes working on cleaning it up. After that, you can either use chain lube or chain wax. Either is fine, it doesn't really matter which you use. Wax does tend to make less of a mess, at least as far as I've noticed.

If you want specific products, here's a chain cleaner,
here's a brush,
and here's chain wax

Depends. If any passages are completely clogged, the Seafoam won't get in to the clog and do its thing. If all passages have some flow, the Seafoam can get in and work.

It also depends on how the gas/Seafoam ratio, and how long you let the Seafoam sit and work. It also depends on how hard the deposits are, and how long they've been there.

I had a Yamaha Maxim 550 (GREAT bike!) whose previous owner let it sit for 11 years with gas in the carbs. Seafoam, Berryman's B-12 Chemtool, ultrasonic cleaning, carb cleaner in a can--none of that worked. What finally worked was a gallon can of carb cleaner, aka a carb dip: http://www.amazon.com/Berryman-0996-Chem-Dip-Carburetor-Cleaner/dp/B00DSMEL2A

You can buy it on amazon.

Redline gl4, the "I give a fuck about this transmission enough to spend $60 on it."

or stalube cheapo for the "whatever, it's GOOD ENOUGH"

I've used both and the transmissions keep on truckin'

Hard to beat the price and shipping of Amazon IMO.

• $11 OEM Oil filter
  
• $11 OEM MTF
  
• $11 75/90 Diff FYI. There is no OEM diff fluid.
  
• $8 A pump
  
• $13 OEM Grease for your shifter

Not a problem!

https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00CMT9TFY

This is basically a cheat when it comes to cleaning bearings in my honest opinion. Expose the bearing (remove the caps), aim the nozzle angled to the bearings as if you were drying them with compressed air. Get a good spray for one second. Shake to remove excess, and screw buttons back together. Can't recommend it enough!

Black RTV works well.

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81158-Silicone-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B000AL6WLA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1343347050&sr=8-1&keywords=black+RTV

Here.


The noisy clutch is due to shrunken, dried out rubber dampeners in the clutch basket. There are repair kits available.


Believe it or not, the preferred oil for these bikes is actually [a diesel oil.](
http://www.amazon.com/Shell-Rotella-550019921-Synthetic-Diesel/dp/B005CHT4W6)

To elaborate, Shell Rotella t6 is JASO MA certified.

From Wikipedia:

> For four-stroke gasoline engines, the JASO T904 standard is used, and is particularly relevant to motorcycle engines. The JASO T904-MA and MA2 standards are designed to distinguish oils that are approved for wet clutch use, with MA2 lubricants delivering higher friction performance.

I'm trying my best to help, i have no idea what the Firefly is.

I just looked it up. Holy shit, theres a USB cable the lights it up.

YOu can "cross fingers" try this: WD 40 Electrical Cleaner

DOnt use water since theres a circuit board inside.

For the light, you want a silicone sealant. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81158-Silicone-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B000AL6WLA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1419374300&sr=8-2&keywords=black+silicone+sealant

Be careful on the door. Are there screws behind that strip? If so, and you glue something on, you'll never be able to remove the door panel. I'd just do a bit of double stick tape, but not so much that I couldn't remove it.

If your bike has a fuel filter (I don't know, mine doesn't) inspect or replace. Check fuel line for kinks. Replace the spark plug. You might also run a little SeaFoam through your carb. Gasoline can turn to varnish in some of the small passages of a carb.

Sorry... I've read this several times and I don't really know what you're wanting to do....

I do know that graphite dust isn't poisonous though, it's a very common lubricant, I've used it before amazon.com/Powdered-Graphite-Lubricant

As far as being able to form graphite into shapes, I don't think that's going to work unless you have a high temp furnace and perhaps a hydraulic press....

I live overseas. There are a lot of items that Amazon won't ship overseas. Example

If you really need to spray something into your computer (protip: you don't), use a specially designed electric contact cleaner. https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00CMT9TFY

i don't know if this would solve it, or is okay to use on glasses/plastic, but my first thought was to try this stuff:

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24200-Medium-Strength-Threadlocker/dp/B0002UEMZ2

Yea most just stock gl-5 fluid so they use that. Gl-5 was created for differential use so it is much slippier. Slippier is not good for your synchros since they need to be able to grab.

My old 2006 m/t corolla had same issue. Manual even said you could use gl-4 or gl-5. Swapped to gl-4 and buttery smooth shifting.

Heres a DIY


And some manual trans fluid

Upholstery Adhesive works well but is rather expensive. You'll need 2 cans. Use the Permatex brand one. The 3M one didnt work well for me in some parts

Sea Foam comes right to mind.

thread locker: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24200-Medium-Strength-Threadlocker/dp/B0002UEMZ2

3M 420 Fiberglass Resin & Repair Kit, .45 Pint https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BO9NOO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PPEpzbAY2B9K5

Those work too.

I prefer this type: https://www.amazon.com/Plews-55001-Lubrimatic-Standard-Bottles/dp/B000BQW5LK

IMO these are way, way easier:
https://www.amazon.com/Plews-55001-Lubrimatic-Standard-Bottles/dp/B000BQW5LK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1498616106&sr=8-2&keywords=oil+pump

screws right on to the bottle of oil. pump till it's empty and swap to the next bottle until fluid runs out the fill hole.
I have one of these for each car/fluid type.

Lift the jeep as high as you can. Rest frame on jack stands and let the axle droop. Then hit it with one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/Plews-55001-Lubrimatic-Standard-Bottles/dp/B000BQW5LK

I will never try and fill the rear end with out one again

I have the 6 speed and the torsion LSD.

I'm looking at doing my transmission lube and rear differential. I'm looking at
Red Line (50304) MT-90 75W-90 GL-4 for the transmission and
Red Line 57904 (75W90) GL-5 for the differential.

Would this work ok or should I just go with the GL-5 all around? Also am I correct that the transmission takes 2 quarts and the differential takes 1?

This one? https://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Wrench-L512-Lubricant-CERFLON/dp/B000CPJLE4

Like this?

Permatex 27828 Body Shop Heavy Duty Headliner and Carpet Adhesive Aerosol Can

Headliner adhesive.


Permatex 27828 Body Shop Heavy Duty Headliner and Carpet Adhesive Aerosol Can, 16.75 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HBNU9K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JXkSDbG53H4B4

http://www.amazon.com/Maxima-75920-Clean-Up-Chain-Cleaner/dp/B000WKATCM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1463087667&sr=8-4&keywords=chain+cleaner+motorcycle

Powdered graphite lock lubricant. Could be the key is a bit off and the pins in the lock can probably use some lubricant. (Do not use WD-40 or other liquid lubricants, only powdered graphite). Amazon link, but you can get it much cheaper at Walmart or local hardware store

and this kind of graphite lubricant? https://www.amazon.com/Panef-Corp-Powdered-Graphite-Lubricant/dp/B0016GZQ60/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498581402&sr=8-1&keywords=graphite

I would apply a thin film of white lithium grease. You can buy it almost anywhere.

https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-10533-Lithium-Grease/dp/B004X70LZA

Lithium Grease, you can find this at your local hardware store.

or

http://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-10533-Lithium-Grease/dp/B004X70LZA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1394548507&sr=8-2&keywords=lithium+grease

We've got a tube of this that works wonders on all sorts of gearboxes.

https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-10533-Lithium-Grease/dp/B004X70LZA

You can probably get it cheaper at your local Walmart or auto parts store.

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-37643-Medium-Strength-Threadlocker/dp/B0053ZNMDE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522723261&sr=8-1&keywords=blue+loctite+stick

Worth every penny. The liquid is a pain imo. The stick is much easier to dispense on screw threads.

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-37643-Medium-Strength-Threadlocker/dp/B0053ZNMDE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1500130706&sr=8-3&keywords=loctite+blue

Indeed... Shell Rotella (550019921) T6 5W-40 Full Synthetic, Heavy Duty Diesel Engine Oil (CJ-4) - 1 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CHT4W6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wGMOyb36R3SYD

[oil] (https://www.amazon.com/Shell-Rotella-550019921-Synthetic-Diesel/dp/B005CHT4W6)
I get the filter from napa. The gold filter. Been using this oil in my 09 tsi for years and in cold buffalo winters.

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Subaru-SOA868V9270-Super-Coolant/dp/B007NLOZAU Use prime shipping/ get rush delivery. Still probably cheaper than whatever the dealer is charging.

I've never heard of that, but I do know the Subaru blue coolant is recommended..

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Subaru-SOA868V9270-Super-Coolant/dp/B007NLOZAU

Tilt the board on its side and from the underneath hit the motor with http://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00CMT9TFY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462970375&sr=8-1&keywords=Contact+cleaner+spray and let the gunk drop out .. Wait five minutes and do the same on the other side.

I do this on my boosted board once a month havent tried it on my marbel yet as it hasnt made any grinding noises yet


Key is you want gravity to pull the cleaner and dirt out

https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00CMT9TFY

​

This is what I, and other members here use:

https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00CMT9TFY

For # 5 you're on the right path, but get some of these.

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Plastic-Handle-Circuit-Static/dp/B00CQIA22U

and this

https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00CMT9TFY/

Hey I have some.

Where the metal stabiliser wire is housed in the plastic housing - I used a syringe - I used this https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00W6Q3B1G?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-50139-Plastic-Adhesive/dp/B01IBOK7FE/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=jb+weld+plasticweld&qid=1564790287&s=gateway&sprefix=jb+weld+&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

If that is the level immediately after you've been driving it for an hour, it does seem your car has lost coolant abnormally quickly for just 5k miles. Before topping it off, I would bring it by the dealership so they can check for leaks. As long as your reservoir isn't bone-dry, you're not going to be in danger of running low on coolant.

In terms of topping off the coolant, be sure to use Subaru Super Blue coolant (http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Subaru-SOA868V9270-Super-Coolant/dp/B007NLOZAU). Mixing with another formulation (color) will decrease its lifespan. Just pour into the reservoir tank you see in your picture.

Permatex 24200 Medium Strength Threadlocker Blue, 6 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002UEMZ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nJVzDbYM5A4DS

I’ve had no problem using this from mountain bike parts to pens. It’s not the original loctite brand but should do the job!

Don't use WD40 on locks. Powdered graphite should be available at your local hardware store.

Not sure whether or not it would help, just thought I should add what you should use instead of WD40 because CrankyTank did't elaborate.

Lube every stab, even if you have only basic lubes. Safe to use and available locally (especially auto parts stores) would be super lube or white lithium grease.

If all you need is some graphite, and don't care where it comes from, a pencil is mostly graphite, and you can get graphite powder as a lubricant.

Making synthetic graphite requires serious lab gear, AFAIK, they superheat carborundum to produce it.

Protip- if you do choose to remove the cover, put some blue thread locker on the screws before you replace them.

This stuff: https://smile.amazon.com/Permatex-81158-Silicone-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B000AL6WLA?sa-no-redirect=1

I use it quite frequently to fix holes and cuts in regular tires.

if he paid $800 for carb dip/clean/setup/etc/. the shop saw him coming.

depends on what "dipped" means.. taking 4 carbs apart and dipping in Berryman's and re-assembly? $150.
https://www.amazon.com/Berryman-Chem-Dip-Carburetor-Cleaner-Basket/dp/B00DSMEL2A

taking apart 4 carbs cleaning and ultrasonically cleaning and replacing everything whether it needs it or not with 4 new carbkits ($50)
$250-$300?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-X-CARBURETOR-CARB-REPAIR-REBUILD-KIT-77-HONDA-CB750K-750-FOUR-/322539601700

for $800 , the shop should include a full carb setup/tune and a initial fill of baby tears in all 4 bowls.

I'm assuming you're confused, they were talking about this https://www.amazon.com/Sea-Foam-sf-16-Motor-Treatment/dp/B0002JN2EU

I would take the bottom cover off and blow the dust out of the two fans. I have to do this once every 6 months or so because of pet hair. Even if the vents are exposed you may have dust or hair caught in the back of the vents on the inside. Make sure you get some of this to put on the screws because once you take them off they seem to wiggle loose over time.

UV Leak Dye

Try this with a UV light and glasses. They're available at most auto parts stores like autozone and advance. Add it into your coolant. It will show you exactly where the leak is coming from.