(Part 3) Reddit mentions: The best power & hand tools

The core material EDC, to me would be knife, light and cellphone. But cool keychain gidgets are really nice too.

So I'd say if you have a knife, a good flashlight would be next, then a backup knife and light (one is none, two is one). I like a multi-tool or SAK for my backup knife, and a keychain light for my backup torch.

(In case you're curious, after that I start considering footwear, gloves, hats and other clothing.)

(Sorry, I'm feeling a bit lazy, so you'll have to live with bare links.)

This one is pretty popular for keychain use: www.amazon.com/iTP-A3-EOS-Flashlight--Upgrade/dp/B006K5C2EG/

Fenix has single AA and 123 powered lights that are well regarded and compact:
AA: http://www.amazon.com/Fenix-E11-Compact-Lumen-Flashlight/dp/B005GW8UC2
CR123: www.amazon.com/Fenix-Compact-140-Lumen-Flashlight/dp/B005CWRB44

There are a lot of other brands worthy of consideration too, of course (Fourseven's mini, Jetbeam, Klarus, Zebra, just to name a few).

There are also a lot of much larger but more capable flashlights out there.

Keychain stuff is always nice:
I use these sliver grippers way more than I thought I would. The convenience of always having them around is unparalleled: http://www.amazon.com/UNCLE-BILLS-SLIVER-GRIPPER-TWEEZER/dp/B001KMSUA4
I've been thinking of getting this, I'm a little leery about that much stuff for so little cost though: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003A5E5IK
I love this style of keyring, but it's way cheaper on eBay: http://www.amazon.com/Vigilant-Gear-Aircraft-Cable-Ring/dp/B006ZSP1PA
Little one-piece keychain tools have become really popular, and I really like having a little prying and screwing tool always present.
The Gerber Shard is cheap but probably at least worth what you pay for it: http://www.amazon.com/Gerber-22-01769-Shard-Keychain-Tool/dp/B002ZK45IQ
This one has a bit more functionality, and is made of the magically delicious titanium: http://www.amazon.com/Schrade-Chain-Tool-Seatbelt-Cutter/dp/B004PQJ1QO

Keychain multi-tools can be good.
Here's one from Gerber: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006M9NIDO
Supposedly the build quality isn't as good as Leatherman's though: http://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-64010101K-Micra-Multi-tool/dp/B000JCN0FG

I'd also recommend looking for a glow in the dark lanyard.

A pen you can EDC is another "you're surprised how often you use it" item. I have an Inka and it's definitely alright, though a bit fiddly: http://www.amazon.com/Nite-Ize-Inc-Inka-Pen/dp/B001E6R6EM/
The biggest competitor is the classic Fisher Bullet Space Pen: http://www.amazon.com/Fisher-Space-Pen-Bullet-400B/dp/B000WGD13U

Something to write on is nice. I'm a real child of the digital age, but I still like having an analog recording medium on me. I prefer Pentalic's pocket size books to Moleskine's. They're a little thicker, but they have a flexible cover, and are usually cheaper. Here's one: http://www.amazon.com/Pentalic-Travelers-Sketch-3-Inch-4-Inch/dp/B0025TZ35Q but I don't know if it's ruled or grid or what. I also prefer a bright color cover to make it easy to spot.

Continuing on the writing stuff matter, a sharpie and/or a metallic (ink) sharpie are nice to have. You can get sharpies with stainless steel cases too, which feel nicer to hold, and you're a little less likely to forget somewhere.
Black (dozen): http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006IFEP
Stainless Steel: http://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Stainless-Permanent-Marker-1747388/dp/B001V9LQLG
Metallic: http://www.amazon.com/Sanford-39108PP-Metallic-Sharpie-Permanent/dp/B00119QWCO

I think everybody should carry some sort of bandanna. I carry an off-brand buff (tubular bandanna) and an olive drab shemagh.

I like to carry a small baggie of what I call MacGuyver goods. Paracord (bound up in a hanayawa right now), some gorilla tape and electrical tape wrapped around a card, super glue, a sewing kit, zip ties, twist ties, rubber bands, safety pins, binder clips, and a few 1 quart ziplock freezer bags. (Like hell I'm finding links for all of those.)

Yet another "surprising how useful it turns out to be" item is a small mirror: http://www.amazon.com/Coghlans-Featherweight-Mirror/dp/B0047QV44O/

Whistles are useful for warning people of fire or danger, or calling for help, so I like to carry one: http://www.amazon.com/Fox-40-Whistle-Breakaway-Lanyard/dp/B00544UJC6

A monocular is fun to have on your person. This particular model is really great because of its super low minimum focusing distance, which lets you use it as a sort of loupe. In regular mode it's good for looking for house numbers or your car in a parking lot, that sort of thing: http://www.amazon.com/Brunton-Echo-7x18-Pocket-Scope/dp/B000FKMTBS

I think that's all I could come up with off the top of my head.

Okay, where to begin?

​

Sharpening a knife is actually a very simple process. The overall goal is for you to maintain an angle throughout the sharpening process while sharpening from course to fine grits (Course = smaller #s and Fine = Higher #s). Often people use cheap knives and sharpeners and learn good habits (maintaining angles) before upgrading to higher tier stones. The issue you have is the you are dealing with a premium steel knife which is much harder, holds an edge longer( needs sharpen less often) and takes more time to sharpen with a majority of sharpening materials. If you are dealing with Elmax steel I would recommend that what ever sharpener you get it should have diamond and ceramic stones as these are harder than the knife material and can cut it efficiently unless you are using some belt or grinder system. Since you are a beginner I would recommend that you use a knife sharpening system as you could have more accidents sharpening the knife free hand. Believe me it sucks when you screw up a knife edge while sharpening and you have to spend way too much time fixing your mistakes so the knife can actually cut. In short I would use a test knife in any sharpener to see how it works properly and after you are more confident use the system you choose. Also some of these might be excessive especially if you only have a few knives. Some of the higher end sharpener are what professionals use in their shop (who knows if you get good enough you can make some money).

​

1. The Lansky Diamond system ($67) is a great place to start as it has 70/120/280/600 grits but you also have to purchase the C clamp stand ($15 and you do need it as you will get tired holding the thing) and higher grit (1000) ceramic stone ($13) and 2000 grit stone ($12). Leather strops with compound if you want an absolute finish. The only complaint I would have about this system is that the stones are not of the highest quality and stop working as the diamonds fall off. The sharpening guides also are fixed and you have to use a angle measure (your iphone can use its compass app) or some math (trig) to find the position to get an accurate angle throughout the blade. There is a work around stone holder ($60 )That can use Edgepro stones and is longer (better strokes). So with everything but the strop and the 3rd party holder you are looking around $120. $200 with the upgraded stone holder.
   
2. The KME sharpener is very similar concept except that the angle guide is moveable but I must still stress that the angle needs to verified again. Shabazz also explains this in his review. It also has a nicer case. I think you still need to buy the base for this one as well. Like you said it runs around $300 with every thing.
   
3. at $350-575 there is the wicked edge . Hear great things and it will get the job done faster but it is expensive! You can get a Tormek at that price now.
   
4. If you do not want to spend a ton of time sharpening and don't mind belt grinding the Ken Onion Sharpener ($126) is great. Note: it will create a convex edge and if that is something you want great! Video
   
5. Going off the deeper end we have the Tormek T4 ($400-550 or $700 for the full size) which is essentially a wheel grinder made for edge knives and tools. Considered by many to be the best you can get
   
6. There is also the TSprof ($700) which is essentially a bigger top tier KME sharpener. Video
   
7. If you want a simple top tier diamond system DMT Course Set and Fine Set =$200 total. Note that although expensive. These can be used pretty much for decades provided that you take care of them (use diamond abrasive fluid). You can also use water stones but there are so many out there I do not know which brands and how much you could expect to spend with those.
   
   ​
   
   Note that I only mentioned the higher end sharpening systems under the assumption that money is no objection and you wanted it to sharpen you knife efficiently but I wanted for you to see what types of systems are available are certain price ranges. If not mentioned above you might need a strop and fine compound to get a mirror edge.
   
   Okay now here are some cheaper systems that are similar to some of those above but cheaper.
   
   
8. 5 gen Sharpener (ebay) ($40). This is like the KME Sharpener but cheaper and you can get 3rd party Diamond Plates set (140/400/1000) cheap ($25)
   
9. Edge Pro clone - cheaper end copy of the Edge pro. I think you can also use the diamond plates as it is around the same size.
   
10. Lulu sharpener ($90) if you can find one... it is a copy of the Wicked Edge. Looks like it also uses the Diamond plates mentioned earlier.
    
    ALSO: get a ceramic honing rod ($20). Often times knives just need honing to get back that razor sharp edge and maintaining it with a rod will prolong your edge and mean you sharpen less.
    
    ​
    
    Hopefully this has helped you somewhat and sorry it took so long to respond, it just takes time to type all of this out(2hrs! where does the time go?) and cite the products. Personally for me, knives for me a fun hobby and it tends to have a meditative effect on me when I sharpen them. I also hope that you come to enjoy sharpening your knives just as much.
    
    ​
    
    And welcome to sharpening!

Congratulations!

• Personally I would recommend either a Remington 700 over the 783. There's nothing wrong with the 783, but the 700's fit, finish as well as the overall quality is just superior and I'm a firm believer in the "buy once, cry once" philosophy, especially with firearms. If you buy the 783, my bet is that as you get a little more serious about shooting, you'll end up buying a 700.
  
  
• With all that said, if you're not hell bent on buying a Remington, I personally would go with a Tikka T3 (there are many, many models). Overall it's about the same as a Remington 700 in terms of quality, but the bolt action is just silky smooth and the trigger pull is wonderful. I'm biased because I'm a bit of a Tikka fan, so take my advice with a grain of salt.
  
  
• In regards to the .308 calibre, again I'm a bit biased because my rifle is in .308 but regardless, I think .308 is the way to go. It's easily found, and comes in a variety of weight from (approximately) 120gr to 200gr so you have a choice of choosing a lighter bullet for smaller game or a heavier bullet for larger game.
  
  
• To pass the time while your PAL/RPAL is being processed, I strongly suggest buying high quality safety equipment You don't have to break the bank, but don't skimp. Apart from that I'd say buy a good soft case, and later down the road you can buy a hard case (my personal favourite is the Pelican 1750). Here's a little list....
  
  
• Ear protection: Howard Leight Impact Sport and Howard Leight earplugs (Personally I use both-- you only get one pair of ears!)
  
  
• Eye protection: Smith Aegis Arc (DS Tactical is a great company to deal with)
  
  
• Hard case: Pelican 1750 (Production Case is a nice Canadian company with prices way better than anywhere else and great customer service)
  
  
• Bipod: Harris Engineering (widely considered the best bang for your buck product-- I use the 9-13 inch because I'm a bit taller, but most people like the 6-9)
  
  
• Soft case: Cabela's drag bag-- great product at a great price.
  
  
  
• Torque wrench: VERY important in my opinion, as I see way too many people over-torquing their gear (i.e. scope mount screws) and messing things up. Wheeler Torque Wrench-- this is what I use. It's reasonably priced and I use it all the time when I'm working on my rifle. I know plenty of people say they're not necessary, but they'll save you from major headaches in the future.
  
  
• Bonus: When you buy your scope, DO THIS to level it. I've tried all kinds of methods, but this by far the best (assuming your rifle is levelled first). It's so simple, but so effective.
  
  
  Anyway, I hope this helps. I'll check back in a little bit (studying for finals right now) if I think of anything else.
  

> Thanks in advance for answering my questions.

• How long have you had your Flashforge, and how much have you printed on it?
  
  I purchased it last August. (781 hours logged) It's almost litterly been printing out of the box since day one. The only issue I had out of the box is that the one screw on the build plate got bent as a result of the 2 free spools bouncing into it. I ordered a box of them from McMaster and had it fixed by the end of the week. I contacted Lisa on their google chat form and from what I understand, they now come with the screw as a result of my support ticket. This was an annoyance yes, but I've had more issues with my reprap and that costed me more than this pritner when I bought it. (I originally had a Makergear Prusa)
  
  
• What do you like the most and the least about this printer?
  
  Most: I love the fact that it prints 100% of the times I try to print something. I rarely, and I mean RARELY have a failed print. I love that I can hit print before I go to bed and wake up to a completed part in the morning.
  
  Least: This is small, and it took a while but I have since out grown the build platform (9x6x6 inches). I recently ordred an 8x12 plate from McMaster and that arrives on monday and we'll see how that works. (PSA this requires removing one of the extruders - if you want more info on this let me know)
  
  
• Have you printed with ABS?
  
  Yes, no issues. Just close up the printer with the included panels.
  
  
• If so, did you experience any problems such as curling?
  
  No, I use a glass build plate and a thin coat of purple glue stick. I then spritz water on the plate before each print. I never have a sticking issue and I never have warpage. I personally prefer PLA though since Hatchbox has come to light and makes GREAT PLA
  
  
• Have you had any problems with the metal bed warping or with leveling the bed?
  
  Like I said just above, I use a glass build plate, so I haven't had any warpage issues with the bp. Leveling the bed is a bit of a challenge but I'm fussy about it and I want it within 0.0005 or less so it takes me a while. The reason I'm fussy is because I've only had to level the bed 2 or 3 times since owning it.
  
  The first was when I got it
  
  The second was when I added the glass build plate
  
  The third was when I removed one extruder and added an aluminum carriage.
  
  That's it. It never lost it's level and it's gone through 3 moves (like I moved apartment to apartment)
  
  
• Finally, how is the customer service or community support for this printer? Thanks again!
  
  The only experience I had was with that screw initially. I contacted Lisa on their Google Chat forum and she handled it mostly. Sadly, it wasn't as 'perfect' as I wanted since their solution was to send the printer back instead of sending me a new screw. Never the less, they did try to help on the matter and told me how I could go about getting money for the screw if I so desired. In the long run, it's a screw and I just ordered them from McMaster. I have zero regrets from it and I think I know my printer a bit beter because of it.
  
  single extruder carriage (PSA: their single extruder block is not FF compatible.
  
  My Thingiverse for example prints
  
  Some things I would buy shortly after getting the printer:
  
  Spare Extruder fan : I tend to slip and put a screw drive in the path of this, shattering the blades. If you're a clutz like me, get it. I've needed 4 so far. ::hangs head in shame::
  
  Glass Build Plate : Best purchase I've made for my FF. Works great, easy to install and use. Also get thermal sheets and purple elmers glue, and print the spacer found on my Thingiverse page under "Flashforge Upgrades". Also get a spatula, and dikes
  
  Simplify3D : A lot people tend to spend $X,XXX on a printer and then try to use free software with it and complain when it doesn't print right. To me that's like buying a car without tires. A Corvette ain't shit without a decent set of tires. It's kind of pricy compared to free, I know, but at real CAM programs (which is what this basically is) cost $8,000 or more. It truely is a great printer program and I wish I had purchased it much MUCH sooner than I had.
  
  Last and most importantly, get the an active cooling fan. I originally printed this, and purchased a 12v power supply and added some fans to it. I have since moved on to the offical one from FF. It's not as good but I haven't really ran into an issue. If I had to print from my right extruder, it would be an issue though. What I liked about it, is that it's a plug and play added on. No "modifications" needed to added.
  
  TL;DR / Closing thoughts: I would buy this printer again in a heartbeat. ESPECIALLY if they came out with one similar to the Replicator 2 with the 11.9" build plate. Instead it looks like they went a different way judging by CES but oh well, there's always next year. Further more, I think this is a great entry level printer for someone looking to have a printer help with projects and not be one of them. That doesn't mean you can't mod it or upgrade or whatever, it just means you don't have to if you don't want to.
  
  
  Hope this helps and answers any questions you might have. Feel free to ask more though!
  

I think the answer here may depend on what he wants to do with it. If it's for hunting the answer will be different than if it's for long-range target shooting. I'm going to assume that since you're posting here you're already pretty sure that it's for long range shooting rather than hunting.

Since I don't know how much you know about guns in general I'm going to write it all out assuming nothing, and then you can skip parts that you know. Likewise, in the future, someone who does know nothing might find this and find it useful. I'm writing this because I don't want you to think that I'm being condescending - I'm not trying to be - I just don't know what you already know.

Firstly, he's never going to complain about ammunition. To know which kind of ammunition to buy, take a photo of the writing on the barrel - it'll look something like this. What you're looking for is the part that's not describing the company that made it, or the patents that describe it. Take a photo of that on your phone. In the example photo is says ".300 WIN. MAG". .300 Win Mag is the cartridge that the rifle is chambered in - nothing else will shoot safely out of it, so it's very important to buy the right one. It may not begin with ".3" - it may begin with .2 or be something metric based like 6.5mm something or 7mm something. When it comes time to buy, use an ammunition search engine like AmmoSeek and find the longest match you can for the kind of ammunition. There's a lot of .300 <something> available, but the one that matches the most text is overwhelmingly likely to be correct. The rifle you're buying for will have some match in the list, unless it's custom and weird. If you're not certain that you've found the match then swing by any gun store with the photo and you can confirm with them. They'll likely ask you whether it's for hunting or range or target use. The difference there is in the bullet - hunting bullets peel outwards like a banana and stop in meat to transfer the most energy from the bullet to the animal, so that the animal doesn't get a chance to feel pain. Range/target bullets are designed to fly extremely predictably, but little care is given to what happens when it meets something. There is a third use case - if they ask you whether it's for "defense" or similar then either they don't know enough or they're being patronizing and assuming that you don't know anything. The next choice is the weight of the bullet. Lighter bullets fly faster, but can be blown around by the wind a bit more. The right choice here is "whatever he's already using". If you ever see any of the boxes of ammunition in the house, take photos of all sides of the box on your phone, and then later delete all the ones that don't tell you the weight. Chances are that the information will be on the end flaps that open, and what you're looking for is a number followed by either the word "grains" or its abbreviation "gr". Just for interest there's 437 grains in 1 ounce, and 15 grains in 1 gram. Chances are the number will be in the 70 to 300 range. When you buy, try to buy closest to what you took a photo of. Exact number doesn't matter, but close is good - if he's shooting .308 Win and you see a box of 167 grain bullets, then buying .308 Win with 168 grain bullets is fine (cartridge is correct, and bullet weight is close). Buying .308 Win with 175 grain bullets is okay (cartridge is right, bullet weight is a a little way off), but buying .308 Norma Mag with 168 grain bullets is wrong because the cartridge is wrong.

So, that's "how to find and choose ammo" covered. You can pad the purchase with ammunition to get to a target value.

Next, accessories - there are some accessories that depend on the specifics of the rifle - whether it's long action (LA) or short action (SA) or Magnum. These basically refer to how long the cartridge is. Armed with the knowledge of which cartridge the gun is chambered for, you stand a reasonable chance of finding out which is it by going to Magpul's page about their polymer magazines, and picking the "Remington 700" from the "Platforms" menu. This brings back some magazines. Click on each and scroll down to "Features" - the first line there has a list of example popular cartridges that fit. Make a note of which magazine it is - the length of the action is in the name. If none of them mention the cartridge, then you can also start googling for the cartridge name along with "short action" and "long action" and see what comes back. Chances are it's either pretty definitive, or people asking why you can't put short action cartridges in long action magazines.

Things that have already been mentioned are bipods, triggers and cases. None of these are bad choices, but they're worth a little time listening for, in case he expresses a preference for anything. For example, nobody thinks that buying a Harris bipod is a bad idea, but there are other less well-known choices that he may have decided to look in to - for example, I've got an Atlas bipod. In order to buy the right thing, you'll need to know how it connects to the rifle. A bipod will connect somewhere near the front, on the underside, not touching the barrel. Chances are that there's either a sling stud or a piece of Picatinny rail there, with the sling stud being much more likely. The bipod should connect to that, but since there are choices then you should pick the one that matches what's on the rifle.

With regards to triggers, there are two well-known names - Timney and Jewell (who apparently don't have a website that Google knows about). Both are great. Both require installation in the same manner - undo the two screws holding the rifle into the stock, use a small hammer and punch to a tap a couple of pins out, put the new trigger unit in place, and then tap the screws back in to place, and put screw the rifle back in to the stock. This sounds easy, but there is opportunity to screw up - the trigger has parts that are only held in by the other parts of the rifle, and the screws have to be done up to a specific tightness. If you don't think the person you're buying for would be happy doing that work, then you can pay your local gun store to do it for you for about an hour of their time. Be aware that both Timney and Jewell make triggers for other guns, too.

Someone mentioned magazines - also a great choice, if the rifle can take them. On the underside of the rifle just in front of the trigger guard will be either a plate, or a hole. If it's a hole, then it takes magazines. If it's a plate then it doesn't, yet. If you want to buy magazines, it's probably best to stick with what he's already got. You'll need to know whether you're dealing with short action, long action or magnum, and the instructions for that are above.

Now, if he doesn't have a hole for a magazine in the rifle, that's actually a thing that can be changed with two screws. That said, these are the same two screws that need tightening to a specific tightness. Remington made a few major families of the 700 rifle - the ADL, BDL and CDL. I have no idea what they stand for (if anything). The important thing here is that the ADL isn't made anymore and the BDL and CDL have the plate as part of the trigger guard that covers the hole where the magazine would go. To be more complete, it does cover a magazine, but it's internal to the rifle and you can't just swap it for a fresh, full magazine when it's empty. It's called a blind magazine. The part we're going to replace this with is called "bottom metal", because it's the piece of metal at the bottom of the rifle. Yep, that's how imaginative we are at naming things. There are two main shapes that this bottom metal comes in - BDL and M5. BDL is a straight swap with what's already there. M5 is bigger, and requires machining out some of the stock to make room for it. The process is called "inletting". Your local gunsmith would do this from a template with a router. You'll also need to know whether you're buying for a short action rifle or a long action rifle. A good brand name here is "Pacific Tool and Gauge", or Magpul (pick Remington 700 from the "Platforms" list) but there are quite a lot of choices.

Another choice might be a shooting rest bag. I don't use one, so I don't have good advice here.

Another good choice might be tools for him to make changes he wants to make to his rifle. The best advice I'd give for this one is a FAT Wrench. It's a screwdriver that stops at a tightness that you set. That's how you make sure that the screws are at the right tightness, and with long-range stuff, everything needs to be the right tightness.

Finally - where the heck do you buy from? The big names to buy from are Brownells and MidwayUSA. They both mark the outside of their boxes, though, so it's worth considering having them deliver to your office or to a friend, so that you can repackage before bringing it inside your home to avoid suspicion.


One last thing - if you do have any questions about this you can send me a private message and I'll ask for photos of the whole gun and the information about the cartridge and I'll be happy to help.

I came back from backpacking through Greece, Bulgaria and Turkey (6 weeks) at the end of July/beginning of June-- Osprey 70 Pack, was my main, and their Daylite pack for lots of smaller trips where I would leave my main pack. This is something like my fifth backpacking trip but this one was more beach and hiking intense so my gear was tailored to it. I also needed to invest in a new pack, which is why I got the Osprey 70 (on sale!)

My pack was much bigger than I needed (I knew that from the onset having experience backpacking for several months already) but I enjoy the idea of having extra space if I needed it. Seriously, scope a pack out for a few weeks/months and look for sales, they will eventually come and you can snag something half off at least.

Basically a weeks worth of shirts, socks and underwear -- I have travel soap and a REI clothesline that I can use to wash anything I need. A pair of chinos and either dark jeans/chinos -- and a pair of shorts or two. A tank-top/swimsuit should be on your list, as well as flip flops.

For shoes, this trip I was mostly hiking so I took some hiking shoes (not boots because I still had times when I wouldn't be hiking), some thin converse and my flip flops. More than adequate for what I needed. Also, either a microfiber quick-dry towel or a cheap beach towel you can pick up most places.

THE BEST THING I CAN RECOMMEND (in addition to rolling clothes) is getting some stuff sacks to keep things organized! If you prefer cubes they make those too which are easier to transition into rolling shirts, and are easier to fit into traditional suit cases.

For the love of gaybros, get yourself a multitool right now if you don't have one. Something small that is easy to fly with, and has exactly what you need. I used to have a Victorinox Swiss Army Knife that I would use, but I recently got a Gerber Dime which I absolutely love. I spent a while in REI picking a new one out, and you know what... this was the most comfortable one for me to use; its tiny but folds out to a good size, and felt sturdier than some of the (much more) expensive ones. No Regrets with Gerber gear.

If you travel to cold climates sweaters (I got passed down a cashmere sweater by my dad that is unassuming and keeps me really warm, but has the benefit of being incredibly light and thin), I'd pack a sweater, a light jacket thats decently water proof, and an outer shell/completely waterproof/wind jacket. I have patagonia gear for that which is incredibly lightweight and amazing. They also make up 90% of my daily rain gear when It rains, so investing in some good stuff isn't just for trips.
Lightweight bag/rain cover is pretty good since I was planning on being outside a lot, but if you're going to be in hostels and so on -- you might not need one.

Go with the absolute tiniest toiletry kit you can. and get a small first aid kit. Seriously, you never know what will happen. Chap stick, bandaids, a small tube of moisturizer because traveling can make your skin go crazy, tylenol/pain relief.

At the moment I'm running:

TEC Centipede - Titanium ruler that's about 8.5cm in length. I measure things irregularly, but not enough to warrant a full tape measure which will take up more pocket space. Feels super well made.

Leatherman Micra - Just got it, and I'm torn on how much I like it. Whilst beefy, the scissors sometimes flex whilst cutting thicker items (so it goes between the blades laterally). I've never had this problem with my Classic SD, and may end up moving up to a 74mm Victorinox like the Executive for the sake of the bigger scissors.

Boker Vox Access Tool - Titanium prybar with a carbide glass breaker on the end. I've come from the SD Titanium Prybar which was bloody useless for nail pulling due to the groove literally being a 'V' without any guiding for nails, and the edge of the bottle opener kept digging into my hand when I used it. Although for it's follies, the tip lip is very thin (yet sturdy) and can get between thinner crevices than the VAT; I also drove in a couple of nails with the SD, and in seeing if I could unscrew a half in one with the VAT, I chipped the guiding groove for the nail puller (not severely, but it was kind of disheartening as I literally just bought it and didn't think it was much of a stress test).

Kershaw Pub - Technically this isn't on my keys, as I put it in the 'snuff pocket' in my jeans, it's beefier than the VAT for box opening, and the blade is about the same size as a Stanley blade. It's a bit of a different design and great for fidgeting. Not so great for fidgeting when people see you, but fun all the same.

I've currently retired:

The SD Ti Prybar - See above, a great little prybar, hampered by a frankly stupid decision to put a bottle opener on it. NOT EVERYTHING NEEDS A BOTTLE OPENER.

Victorinox Classic SD - A present which I absolutely love, however I'm in the pursuit for something 'beefier', although the scissors on this are second to none for all the little odd jobs I've had over the years.

Uncle Bills Sliver Grippers - Brilliant tweezers for splinters, however the first day I put them on my keys, and then sat on my keys, I hadn't put them in the holder right and they stabbed me in the arse. These tweezers have never been on my keys since.

Resqme Car Escape tool - Had it on the keychain, realised I'd only ever use it in the car, and now I keep it in the glovebox as I have the glass breaker on the VAT.

Leatherman Squirt PS4 - An absolutely fantastic multitool let down by a shit pair of scissors which have a lot of play between the blades. It results in a lot of rough cuts and ultimately spoils a perfect out of the box multi-tool. In the pursuit of better scissors and a lighter set of keys, I've currently retired this fantastic piece of kit.

Leatherman Brewzer - I absolutely loved this little prybar, but it broke in half when I tried to get a little shelf stud out of a bookcase, and it just shattered my confidence in the product to the point that I can't be bothered sending it in under warranty, as I know I'd never use it again.

Gerber Dime - I bought this at the same time as the Squirt PS4 because I couldn't decide between them. After taking them both out of the packing and comparing them side by side one after the other, it was instantly obvious that the Leatherman was just the better fit, so this was retired pretty much instantly and was gifted within an hour.

True Utility Keytool - First keytool I ever had and it was great for years! Practically invisible and as I only used it for the file, the mini screwdriver, and the thread cutter, it was fantastic. Never had an issue with the quality, and never had the need to take it off the key it was on, I only stopped carrying it because I don't use the type of key it works with anymore, and don't want to carry it round for the sake of it when I have so many other options. Great little buy though.

I'm probably going to buy:

Victorinox Manager - This is pretty much the best multitool for what I really need, and it has a pen. It's just 58mm and I really want a larger pair of scissors, however it has all the tools I've used recently, and it has a pen!

Another Prybar. As soon as I find a beefy titanium 80mm~ straight prybar which doesn't have a bottle opener on it, and instead has another useful purpose I'm going to get it. Hell, even if it doesn't have a secondary purpose I'll probably get it as well.

Sturdy step stool ($40) - not the rickety tubular kitchen chair ones, I mean one where you can stand on the top. a Buy it for Life item, not inexpensive, but safe. https://www.amazon.com/Louisville-Ladder-AS3002-6966014-2-Foot/dp/B00182TWL2

Leatherman multi tool (around $50), which i keep in the junk bowl because I can never find a screwdriver fast enough. Pricey new, less expensive when you buy it second hand or in a pawn shop. they don't really break, but you do have to clean and oil them once a year. https://www.amazon.com/LEATHERMAN-Wingman-Multitool-Stainless-Steel/dp/B005DI0XM4/

Cordless drill (under $50), mine basically has the screw driver bit in it 90% of the time. the rest of the time I drill lots of pilot holes. pay attention to the battery... if you can get one with a battery that is shared by other tools in the line, then it is easily replaceable and if you buy another tool in that line you can swap batteries. I like to have 1 battery in the charger and one in the device. https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-Cordless-Driver-BDCDD12C/dp/B0111N8L7I/

Spirit, bubble or torpedo level. (under $10) the Hanging kit usually contains just the wires and hooks, but you need a small spirit level for hanging pictures and shelves evenly. doesn't matter the brand they all work the same https://www.amazon.com/WilFiks-Leveling-Resistant-Different-Visibility/dp/B07M62GJYP/

Small tool boxes vary in quality. I don't know if this is for you or someone else. But don't buy anything unless it's a NAME BRAND, cheap metal tools bend and can break with too much torque. Even the Stanley line that Walmart sells isn't fabulous, but it's better than a nameless brand. I don't like SETS of tools, but you need to start someplace, buy GOOD tools one at a time, I love finding $$$ tools at thrift stores. https://www.amazon.com/STANLEY-94-248-Piece-Homeowners-Tool/dp/B000UHMITE/(i bought a cheap socket set 4 years ago to replace my stolen ones and they already have rust)

Bucket organizer. (around $15) If you buy a SET of tools, take the plastic blow molded container and put it in the recycling. You will never bother putting the tools back in and when you get more tools they won't fit. Bucket Organizers are pockets that fit around a 5 gallon bucket. You shove your tools into the pockets and everything else in the middle. And keep it in the bottom of your closet and carry it to where you need the tools. https://www.amazon.com/Bucket-Boss-10030-Bucketeer-BTO/dp/B00GK4TOWK

Tack Hammer. (under $15) You won't need a big 22 oz hammer, but a smaller 16 oz one with a normal handled and then a Tack hammer, these have a narrow head and sometimes are magnetic and hold the nail in place. Tack hammers are easier to use for hanging things exactly where you want them. https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-54-304-5-Ounce-Magnetic-Hammer/dp/B00002X1XD

Stud finder.(under $20) uses a battery, and lets you know where the studs are behind drywall. BEST PURCHASE EVER. https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Stud-Finder-Wall-Detector/dp/B07VLDTVFQ/ any brand will work fine.

Digital Infared Thermometer (under $20) Non-contact Digital Laser Infrared Thermometer Temperature Gun - ALSO BEST PURCHASE EVER... works in the kitchen for food and oven temp, fridge temp, and for locating drafts and cold spots around doors and windows. https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-1080-Non-Contact-Thermometer/dp/B00DMI632G

Toilet Plunger - the sort with the extra bit on the end. https://www.amazon.com/Get-Bats-Out-Plunger-Bathroom/dp/B00ODD5MD0 you do NOT want to be waiting around for someone to unblock your toilet. It may be disgusting but scoop out some of what's in the toilet before you start plunging, it's less disgusting than having to mop it off the floor. You want the plunger that makes a seal around the bottom.

BUCKET. (under $10) mine is constantly in use, i keep it in the tub and toss wet things into it. I have gone through EVERY TYPE on offer...I was so sick of plastic buckets, that warped and stained, where the handles ripped out. But the BEST and cheapest one I have ever found is a flat back duraflex bucket for watering horses. Not kidding. Made of a hard polyethylene these things are designed to be flung around and stepped on by 2000 lb animals. https://www.amazon.com/LITTLE-GIANT-Flat-Back-Dura-Flex-Plastic/dp/B000HHLHPS/ these are cheap if you buy them in a feed store, but even with the shipping on Amazon it is WELL WORTH the money. You will need a bucket when you empty the back of the toilet tank to change the flushing flapper or gasket, and you will need it when you empty the commode itself, if you have to change out the wax seal underneath.

Blanket hangers. (6 for $27) yeah this is obscure, but when I moved I lost a LOT of storage space. These saved my sanity. I use them to hang up quilts and sleeping bags in the back of the closet OFF SEASON. I also use them to hang blankets, sheets curtains and stuff once they come out of the laundry aren't quite dry. I didn't even know there was such a thing before now I wouldn't give them up. https://www.amazon.com/Stock-Your-Home-Comforter-Organization/dp/B00EUG51JU

Flashlight. ($30-50) I've written about these before. Until I bought a GOOD one, I had no idea how bad the others were. Cheap flashlights are great to have scattered about in the cellar, or in the junk drawer. but if you really want TO SEE, get a great flashlight. I gifted myself one for christmas one year and I love it. It hangs by the door and if I am going to be out very late or the weather is bad, I shove it in my bag. It will also illuminate Well past the end of the porch and into the yard if I hear a noise. https://www.amazon.com/Pelican-Carded-SabreLite-Flashlight-Yellow/dp/B01CKAIYV4 any very good brand will do, but I found Maglites to be dangerously useless.

Well, If filmmaking and video is your goal with these cameras I wouldn't recommend either.

If you're just starting and serious about video production here's a pretty effective starter kit that's just a tad over your $400 budget.

[Camera: Canon Vixia HF R400] (http://www.amazon.com/Canon-VIXIA-R400-Advanced-Camcorder/dp/B00AWZFJ22/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395594961&sr=8-1&keywords=canon+vixia+hf+r400)
This is a decent starter camera. It's got a decent range of focal lengths, optical stabilization, microphone input, progressive frame-rates and most of all designed with video in mind. You'll need a SD Card

I noticed the cameras you picked resembles DSLRs but keep in mind that these in particular are not and with fixed lenses which defeats the purpose of having DSLR for video. Trust me, learn how to be effective with a camcorder first! Then, when your skill requires more artistic control you can upgrade.

Audio:
[Microphone:] (http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR-6550-Condenser-Shotgun-Microphone/dp/B002GYPS3M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395595673&sr=8-1&keywords=shotgun+microphone)
Having clean audio is probably the most important part filmmaking! The key is to get the mic as close to your subject as possible and away from your camera. You'll need a cable. If you need to mount it to your camera use this [bracket.] (http://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Photography-Bracket-Standard-Mounts/dp/B005Z4ROIW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395595189&sr=8-1&keywords=flash+bracket) This bracket will also help keep the camera stabilized when you go handheld.

Keep in mind this won't deliver perfect audio but it will be a MASSIVE improvement to the on board microphone and learning how to record with decent audio in mind is your first step into becoming a pro.

[Lighting:] (http://www.amazon.com/Bayco-SL-300-Clamp-Aluminum-Reflector/dp/B007RKKEHA/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1395595354&sr=8-17&keywords=can+lights)
Lighting is EXTREMELY important. A couple of these can lights will not only help with your image quality but put in you in the right direction for learning how to properly light your scene. You could start with daylight equivalent CFL bulbs.

[Tripod:] (http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-60-Inch-Lightweight-Tripod-Bag/dp/B005KP473Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1395595413&sr=8-3&keywords=tripod)
You NEED a tripod. This one is cheap and cheerful. Looping the ends of a couple rubber brands around the pan handle and the other end around your finger will help deliver some smoother pans!

Total: $425/£258

Some things to keep in mind:

• These are far from pro tools but if all used in conjuncture you can deliver a much more effective production than just merely using a camera on a tripod.
  
  
• Build a crew of friends. Although you can "one man band" it I don't recommend it because one of coolest things about film is that it's almost always a group effort towards an artistic goal!
  
  
• Most importantly, the equipment are just tools. They don't tell the story; you do! Your film/video is only as powerful as the story you want to tell!
  
  Best of luck to you!
  
  edit: formatting
  

People own homes without knowing how to do shit all the time. It's fine. A willingness to learn is more important than a brain full of knowledge for your average homeowner.

In my opinion, short of taking a class at a place, the best way to learn is by doing.

Find a project that you want to do. Google and Youtube how to do it. Do it.

I have zero interest in automotive, but I have some interest in carpentry, so that's what I'll address.

Figure out something that you want but don't have. Start simple - rectangles and squares are easy to make. Maybe you'd like an end-table? Or a coffee table? Do you need a bookshelf? All of those are made using only rectangles and squares.

A surprising amount of home carpentry projects can be made with "Dimensional Lumber" aka "what you can buy a home depot" and a minimum amount of tools. Just be aware that a 2x4 isn't actually 2 inches by 4 inches when drawing up your plans! (and yes, you need to draw up your plans and develop a 'cut list' so you can get all the cutting out of the way before you start with assembly rather than jumping back and forth)

While things can be done with hand tools, if you have the capability of working outdoors or 'dirty' indoor spaces like a garage, I'd suggest getting at least a circular saw. They're relatively inexpensive and easy to use for short straight cuts - but be prepared to sacrifice a board or two to the learning gods. But if you're going to have to work indoors inside your living spaces, a tarp and hand saws can address 90% of the mess. Either way, though, get a decent drill and a bit set.

-----------------

The only real tools that I would say are 'must haves' before owning a home is a generic tool kit and a studfinder. There's lots of prebundled toolkits that have the basics. At the very least, make sure you want a hammer, a screwdriver with interchangeable bits, a set of allen wrenches (both metric and standard), a measuring tape (at least 10 feet long, but longer is better up to a point), a set of wrenches (ratchet is nice, but not alwyas needed), and a spirit level. Basically this but look around, there's lots of inexpensive but decent tool kits out there. Those will be the tools you need the most for non-specialized tasks. You won't be renovating a bathroom with it, but you can certainly install a new toiletpaper roll holder, tighten up a loose cabinet door, hang a picture, and assemble most anything that doesn't come with it's own tools with it.

Oh, and get 3-in-1 household oil. WD-40 isn't a long term lubricant.

Get good wrenches, socket wrenches and sockets because these are what you will be using the vast majority of the time. Make sure you get a set of short AND deep sockets too. I might honestly get deep socket first if you have to pick. Also get a 3/4" torque wrench and don't get the harbor freight ones of those. Amazon has good options here. If you spent all of your money on the above items and then added other stuff later you'd be well served. Buying a big kit seems attractive but really putting your money where you will use it the most is a better long term plan. Gearwrench makes good ratcheting wrenches for the price if you want that, but if you aren't willing to spend at least that on wrenches amount get non-ratcheting wrenches instead. Also this thing is one of the handiest tools I own. It's very well built and a very clever design.

Harbor freight does make some OK stuff but it's better to buy less critical things there. I have a set of allen wrenches that have been fine, and their impact sockets are actually pretty good, but you probably won't have an impact for awhile (which is good tbh).

I personally use a KME and a Strop. But I'd recommend getting one of those Lansky Sharpeners with the Deluxe Diamond stones. It's similar enough to a KME; with limited angle choice but 30 25 20 and 17 are good enough IMHO. It runs for only $56 on amazon compared to the KME $180.

I'd also recommend grabbing the Ultra Fine hone on amazon for an extra $9 so you can put a nicer finish on your edges.

Lastly you'll need a strop. You can find one around on the internet or on /r/KnifeSwap occasionally, which is where I found mine. There's a user there that actually makes them by hand and includes compounds with the strop if you're ever lucky enough to grab one from there. But the best alternative is (again on amazon) the Knives Plus Strop Block. It comes preloaded with compound, and a lot of compound, and I've heard nice things about it. It's only $29, or you can go on the Knives Plus website and grab it for $23, but I think its worth the extra six bucks to get free/fast shipping, and have it all come in on the same day/in the same box as everything else.

Hope this helped! :)

This is my first EDC post, hope you all enjoy

1. Samsung Galaxy S5, Black 16GB
   
2. Samsung earbuds
   
3. My Knives that I rotate every now and then.
   Kershaw 1830 OSO Sweet Pocket Knife
   Kershaw 1304BW blackwash: this came in the kershaw walmart gift set (2015)
   
4. My flashlights that I rotate as well
   Streamlight 66318 MicroStream C4 LED Pen Flashlight
   ThorFire PF01 Tactical LED Flashlight Pen Light
   
5. My Watches
   Pebble Smartwatch Black I wear this one the most, as I love being able to control my music with it
   Invicta Signature model 7376 This is my Fancy watch. I bought it on a cruise a couple years ago, I only wear it for special occasions.
   
6. Kindle PaperWhite 5th gen I’ve been reading lots of programing books lately
   
7. Victorinox Swiss Army Huntsman with Free Pouch
   
8. Quick Info Cards with wake turbulence separation, and mandatory advisories, handed out by my Air traffic Control Professor. I’m a ATC Major.
   
9. Kershaw keychain tool, Also included in in the kershaw walmart gift set (2015)
   
10. 8gb Key flash drive
    
11. Sony VAIO® E Series Laptop Model # SVE14A27CXH, great laptop I grabbed before college. Has a I7 and 8gb of Ram. Good for games and school work.
    
12. Mophie Juice Pack Charger I love this thing, I waste so much battery browsing Reddit on my phone when I have free time in-between classes or when I have down time at work.
    
13. Handmade wallet from Dollywood, theme park, TN. Not shown in the Picture
    That’s it.
    

The cheaper route and the best temporary setup would be 55 watt CFL bulbs in a work lamp reflector (they label cfls on equivalent to incandescent bulbs and actual watts used just pay attention to the actual watts used). I use this setup for my succulents and they work great but they don't have enough power for fruiting or flowering plants they are great for the growing stages. The CFLs need to be very close to the plants but far enough where the light doesn't burn them and you need multiple bulbs or one of these kind of florescent lights if you need to cover a lot of area. The 55 watt bulbs can cover about a 1.5'X1.5' area if they are smaller plants.

You can get the big 55 watt bulbs and the reflectors at Walmart. The smaller 25 watt cfls work great too but they need to be very close like 2 inches away close and you need multiples you can fit 4 of them on a power strip with adapters.

The LEDs cost a lot more even the smaller ones but you can find them here for pretty cheap they are the most power efficient option out of the two but they don't come cheap. You get what you pay for when it comes to grow lights.

Edit: they also sell 6500k 55 watt CFLs that have a bit better color for growing.

Are you open to suggestions?

If you haven't already ripped the packaging off of it, my personal recommendation is to not use the Klein non-contact voltage tester (ticker). My experience with it was not good. It was unreliable and the on/off button is junk so the damn thing would never turn off, then it would sit and beep at me constantly while it was in my tool pouch. I finally got rid of it and bought the Santronics ticker. Easily one of the best purchases I've made as an electrician. It's always on, silent, and extremely reliable.

Also, for your hammer I would recommend one with a longer head on it like this one. The reason for this is because you will be doing a lot of work with deep 1900 boxes and 11bs (don't worry if you don't know what those are yet, you will find out soon) and if you're using fasteners that require pounding in with a hammer, you will need a different hammer than the one you have. If you're doing residential work and need to pound staples inbetween studs, you can just use the side of your hammer.

You can probably just return those gloves. You will (or should) be provided with work gloves (many, many pairs of them) at every jobsite you ever work at. You'll never have to buy another pair of work gloves in your life, I can promise you that.

As others have said, get the Klein multi-tool. The 32500 model is the one I use, along with some other commenters in this thread. They are cheap, you'll probably lose the tips every now and then, but it will easily be your most used tool, especially if you're doing a lot of devicing.

Another personal recommendation of mine would be the Ideal Tool Backpack for hauling your stuff around. Sometimes there's a lot of walking involved in getting to and from jobsites, and being able to carry your tools on your back is a lot nicer than carrying them in your hands. It's also nice having your hands free for carrying your lunch box around!

Congratulations on getting in! Keep up a good attitude and you'll do fine. Don't let anyone get on your nerves. 8 hours is 8 hours, make the best of it at all times.

Down the line you might want to consider a small model drill for drilling out gun barrels with if you plan to do a lot of armor models. This isn't a necessity, but adds to the look of a finished model:

https://www.amazon.com/tool-home-Precision-Model-Drill-Twist/dp/B010BV7190/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482606813&sr=8-1&keywords=model+drill

Painting is a big part of model making as well, and weathering is the cherry on top. Vallejo's AFV system is a good place to start for basic weathering. These kits give you the basic washes and pigments with instructions for getting a pretty nice result.

https://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-Weathering-Yellow-Grey-Vehicles/dp/B00BATBLRG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482607023&sr=8-1&keywords=Vallejo+AFV+Weathering

Welcome to the hobby! I visit my local hobby shop on a regular basis and every time Im there I end up picking up a small bottle of paint or pigments to add to the arsenal. As you get into it you will see what you need and dont need according to your style, but with what you have posted and what has been suggested, you are pretty much ready to go! Have fun and don't forget to post what you do here on reddit! We wanna see!

• Samsung Gear S2 - I need to replace this thing soon but it's served me well for 3ish years.
  
• FUNCL W1 Wireless Headphones - Indiegogo headphones. I've been looking for something even remotely close to the quality / small form factor that the Apple Airpods provide. These are the closest I've found (I've tested more than a few truly wireless headphones)
  
• Gerber Dime - This thing has saved me more times than I'd like to admit. Glad I carry it with me.
  
• Kent Beard Comb - Been growing out the fuzzyness, needed to keep it straight, little dingy thing that does the job well. (I'd like to find something as small and black to fit the theme haha)
  
• Spyderco Tenacious Carbon Fiber G10 - grabbed this off of Massdrop a while back. It's been my daily carry ever since.

Knipex for Lineman's pliers: (with or without crimper). Their grip and cutting edge are significantly better than any other brand I've tried.

Wera for screwdrivers: I recommend the XXL 3 set. For sale here.

I still like Klein for strippers. I use the Kurve everyday and the Katapult for wire with thick insulation like PV wire.

Fluke for your meter. Most people recommend the T5 for basic stuff, but the 323 has a proper clamp and removable leads for the same price.

Knipex Cobras for your channel lock style pliers. These are absurdly good and have saved my ass a couple times.

I also recommend buying a Knipex Pliers Wrench. I own a 7-inch and a 10-inch pair and they're way better than a traditional adjustable wrench.

Stanley newest Leverlock tape measures are just as good as Milwaukee's tape and less bulky for half the price.

Milwaukee's Fastback series are the best utility knives by a pretty wide margin. I use the compact one, but that's a matter a preference.

Not 'cheap' but these are the cheapest one's I'd get. You won't regret having decent steel and they'll last you a lifetime (even if you 'upgrade' later).
https://smile.amazon.com/Stanley-16-791-Sweetheart-Socket-Chisel/dp/B004TK0IG8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483251855&sr=8-1&keywords=stanley+sweetheart+chisels

Good luck.

If they're too expensive, I'd second the Narex stuff. I have a set of their mortising chisels...while they don't hold a candle to the Lie-Nielsen stuff...they do work well and are cheap. Personally, I'd rather have (1) 1/2" Lie Nielsen mortising chisel instead of the Narex set. Unfortunately you need at least 2-3 bench chisels.

Really, the most important thing with chisels (cheap and/or fancy) is to sharpen them regularly. . . yes it's a chore but your work will be better. Get good sharpening stones (shapton or a reputable waterstone set) and you'll be set with even the cheapest chisels (just have to sharpen a bit more often).

Happy New Year!

I had acceptable but less than ideal performance with WiFi too. I had range issues on 5 GHZ wireless N and interference issues on 2.4 N (which I couldn't really attribute to anything in particular - it's just a crowded frequency). My house isn't all that big either (1750 sq ft).

I ran Cat5E. It was pretty easy even though it was my first time. I just watched a couple YouTube videos on making Cat5E and bought a crimper, RJ45 connectors, and a big box of cable from Amazon (they have different sizes so just determine how much you would need). I ran and terminated speaker wire, coax for my antenna in the attic, and the networking cable all in one afternoon. If you're considering going that route I would encourage you to do it, it isn't difficult with a decent crimper. Just watch a couple people do it on YouTube and print out a wiring diagram when you're terminating the cables. Make a couple short practice cables before trying to terminate on the cable you ran in the attic.

Before my computer and router were at opposite sides of the house and I was getting speed tests of ~20 MBit down; now with the cable I get ~120 MBit down. I have an Asus router on each side of the house so wireless coverage is excellent as well.

A lot of people like the double edge japanese saws on Amazon (the Ryoba ones). I have one and it works well, but I also have a table saw, circular saws and a band saw, hackzall.. etc.. so it doesn't get used often.

I'd recommend getting a decent #4 hand planer.. but not the cheap stanley one that makes you mess with two knobs to adjust the cut depth (it's hard to keep straight).

Little machinist square helps make sure blades are square to tables (also that corners are square) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005W0W34O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also worthwhile to pick up a cheap kanna block plane, they work well for chamfering corners: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071CF33BG

Pick up a good dual-grit sharpening stone for your chisels, and preferably a chisel bevel guide. You don't need expensive chisels to have them work well (they will hold an edge better though). Being sharpened well is the most important thing. Finish off your sharpening jobs with light strokes on a leather strop with some polishing compound.

I would second the Stanley Sweetheart chisels as a good, affordable set of chisels. I think they perform great, feel good in the hand, and even look like a quality tool. Amazon has a great deal on the set of four most commonly used sizes.

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-16-791-Sweetheart-Socket-Chisel/dp/B004TK0IG8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482187654&sr=8-1&keywords=stanley+chisels

Do not panic. You will want to get a book like this one of how to do things around the house. I've been using the big orange one from Home Depot for well over 20 years; how to change the wax toilet ring hasn't changed, but there's a lot of newer things out there. Now why the heck am I recommending a dead-tree resource? Because you might not have terrific internet access when Something Bad happens. Many of these books have a little index of "how hard is this job" so you'll have a good idea up front whether it's something you can do or something you should call a pro about. They also usually have a materials list, which will hopefully help with the "seems like every repair requires at least 3 trips to Lowes" problem.

You will also want a fairly basic toolset right now. Maybe something like this. I have one from Harbour Freight that is serviceable but not terrific (ex got the tools in the most recent divorce, didn't want the book). There's also a lot to be said for having a good rechargeable electric screwdriver, but that can wait. Don't cheap out on this if you get one, be prepared to spend at least $50.

You also might try talking to the maintenance guy at your complex if you think he does a good job and is trustworthy (my inner former apartment manager is laughing about the odds of this being true). Tell him you're buying a house and hey, if I get in over my head can I pay you to do a little side work (and if so, what's your number)?

You want to use a cutting compound, then a polisher, then a wax and polisher mix, then a wax. It can be done by hand but it'll be tedious work, a polisher is recommended. you can get a 6 inch polisher on Amazon for cheap

[Cutting compound] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B001O7PNW8/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2X258V2JG0MWL&keywords=cutting+compound&qid=1570408658&sprefix=cutting+compound%2Caps%2C213&sr=8-3)

[Polisher compound] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Clear-Coat-Polishing-Compound/dp/B006FUT154/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2GPHAWV9X86T2&keywords=polishing+compound&qid=1570408671&sprefix=polish%2Caps%2C203&sr=8-5)

[Wax] (https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-Polishing-Compound-Scratch/dp/B0009JKGJ2/ref=sr_1_7?crid=1QLIV2CDVRQM8&keywords=wax+compound+for+cars&qid=1570408763&sprefix=wax+compo%2Caps%2C190&sr=8-7)

[Orbital Polisher] (https://www.amazon.com/DECKER-WP900-6-Inch-Random-Polisher/dp/B000077CPT/ref=sr_1_5?crid=PM4UWG6DWJ5C&keywords=polisher+machine+for+car&qid=1570408680&sprefix=polisher%2Caps%2C196&sr=8-5)

I also recommend you completely clean the spot with a clay bar as well so you don't scratch the paint more with crud that's already imbedded in the paint.

[Clay bar] (https://www.amazon.com/IPELY-Detailing-Magic-Cleaner-Clean/dp/B0753FSQN6?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_5)

Good luck!

There is something oddly satisfying about owning tools, and acquiring them. A lot of people that already possess a large set of tools would actually enjoy being in your position: starting all over again!

I do think that many people start out a little too strong, trying to anticipate all their needs and buying tools on those perceptions. Often the result are many unused/under utilized tools...when the money could have been spent better elsewhere. The best way IMHO is to acquire a basic starter set...and then acquire tools one or two at a time as the needs arise.

I would also resist the temptation to buy top quality tools (some will take exception to this) at the accompanying high prices. The truth is that most homeowners/DIY people are really not that hard on tools. Moderate quality tools will often last a lifetime. I still own and use a low end socket set I bought 45 years ago. A homeowner has no need to drop a bundle on a SnapOn socket set or high end Bosch power tools.

Good Luck, and have fun!

Read through the links before you add anything to your cart, the tools at the top are what I personally use and can vouch for, the tools at the bottom are in kits and case save you some money if you only do this once in a while but I can't vouch for the quality.

Crimping tool(17$):

TRENDnet 8P/RJ-45 and 6P/RJ-12, RJ-11 Crimp, Cut, and Strip Tool, TC-CT68 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZK4G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_piZVAbZZVWPM7

Has a built in perfect cut wire strippers

Connectors(9$):

Cybertech Cat6, Cat5e RJ-45 8P8C Ethernet Modular Crimp Connectors Plugs Pack of 100 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LG6DQUI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YiZVAb72959BY

Cat5e Cable(25$) (200ft, pre-made but you can clip and make your own out of it)

200FT Feet CAT5 Cat5e Ethernet Patch Cable - RJ45 Computer Networking Wire Cord (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071XBHM6Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RkZVAbZ8D2F00

The cable is actually not that good of a deal because you can get 1000ft for 50$ without any ends, but I was aiming for sub 50$.

Total cost: 51$

Additional extras I'd recommend:

Cable tester(8$) tests if the cables and connections you made are good. A great investment for beginners and pros)

Zoostliss Network Cable Tester RJ45 RJ11 RJ12 UTP LAN Cable Tester Networking Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZYXN63/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tnZVAb616Y59H

Cable boots(6$) protect your cable ends from having the tips broken and looks cleaner IMO


uxcell 100 Pcs Soft Plastic Ethernet RJ45 Cable Connector Boots Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K82RNX2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qoZVAb54MHXCJ


They also have combo kits like this that exist, I can't speak to their quality but the tools are simple tools so this may save you some scratch

>UbiGear Cable Tester +Crimp Crimper +100 RJ45 CAT5 CAT5e Connector Plug Network Tool Kits (Crimper315) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008UY5WL0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hqZVAb8RM9GVK

Has the tester and everything, includes a wire stripper which is nice

>Maxmoral 7 in 1 Cable Tester + Crimp Crimper + Wire Stripper + 50 RJ45 CAT5 CAT5e Connector Plug + 100 Cable Ties + 100 Cable Cord Holder Clips + 2 Ethernet Connector Network Tool Kits https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J7S5X6Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VrZVAb10QP91E

Same deal, has boots though.

Set wear hot hands are the best insulated work gloves I've ever used. You can hold something 400 degrees for a good 10-15 seconds before you start to feel the heat. It's a real leather too, which lasts longer.

If you're going to the UFT you might as well go for the full ratcheting version rather than ape ding that money twice. Personally I don't care for the UFT I use a Gator Grip socket on a short handled rachet with a swiveling head. Then I also carry a Mega Combo Wrench from The Light Source on my keyring.

Most screw drivers you find won't have a tether hole, I assume because you use them in a circular motion. For an all purpose carry look for a XX in 1, that has multiple bits all in one screwdriver. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_JsPOCbM5B9DK8 something like this.

Is also recommend looking at multi tools, I use a Gerber Center Drive because it has a bit driver to use real screw bits and I like it a lot.

Another good gift idea are flashlights. I'm always on the lookout for the next great flashlight.

The new stanley sweethearts are also worth looking into IMO https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-16-791-Sweetheart-Socket-Chisel/dp/B004TK0IG8

Here are some other brands to look at: http://www.startwoodworking.com/sites/default/files/tool-test-bench-chisels.pdf

Keep in mind that with higher priced chisels you're often paying for it being closer to set up out of the box, and quality of the steel in terms of holding and edge vs ease of sharpening.

Second candleww that Ashley Iles are really sweet. Watch how quickly Dave Barron sets one up for use: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ENqMrvsR3q8

Lastly, I've seen vintage chisels perform just as well as new premium chisels once they are restored. Brands like Butcher, Witherby, Berg, Stanley are great. There are lots of videos on restoring chisels out there, and it isn't hard to do.

WHY ARE THERE NO DIRECTIONS ON WHAT TO DO?!??! I NEED DIRECTIONS AND HELP. HOLD ME.

In all seriousness, I have had this on my wishlist the longest. I have been of great fortune to either not have tools, or have friends, but now that it's just my fiancee and I, I have no tools, no friends (okay, no friends that live close enough or with me that have tools), and no skills. Fixing things/working on things is quite a comical challenge. When I had to put nails in the desk I built for my fiancee, I used the only screwdriver that I own to get it in there.

If that's unreasonable, I love socks!!

You and /u/Matronix are both AWESOME for doing these contests. This community makes me so happy :)

get something like this, with the drills maybe in your local measurements.

then a set of files like this or a complete set like that. than this strange substance.

consider this in case he gets funny. some collection of magnets like those. prices vary drasticly, again go for local measurement system. he will probably need 1x1mm, 2x1mm, 3x2mm. just check if the drills you got and the magnets fit size wise and the magnets have to be neodynium.

​

i am not very familar with skaven so i cant give much advice on models but i assume this one will make him happy. it qualifizes for "anything really cool", can be used to build different things he might like and you can use the stuff mentioned above to fill out the rest of the budget if you like.

​

this overrated book vendor in the links was just used as example of product and quality and prizes of products will vary drastically. with this stuff you cant make too much wrong with going cheap.

somebody from your country might offer you a good vendor. i cant really suggest specific products since they maybe are not availlable where you are from.

​

my most sincere condolences that you lost your partner to plastic crack :(

I can't comment on the ones in your pic, but I bought the ones above it (you can just barely see the bottom of them) and it was not worth the $10 or whatever I spent. They are softer metal and now essentially garbage for me. I next bought the Stanley Sweetheart 4 piece set for $75 and they are outstanding. (If that's too much for you FWW says these are really good for like $40.) So like I said, can't comment on these but in general, with tools, you pay for what you get. I'd rather spend $75 on something that will last my lifetime than $1 on something that will cost me time to replace, will fail when I need it, doesn't do the job quite as well.

I have printed many of his components for my c-bot printer and his stuff is very well thought out. I went bigger and I am sure that I will run into some tech hurdles to overcome because of the size and weight of my bed but your excellent prints give me hope! For DuPont connectors I picked up an iswiss ratcheting DuPont connector crimper. Click Here

If you didn't get the ratcheting on it is worth the money. I would insert the connector. Crimp down until the tabs that grip the wire insulation would bow slightly, and then insert my wire and finish the crimp. Worked like a champ!

Mini saws are pretty helpful. I bought the Olfa handle and mini saw set from Hlj. Pin vices are pretty similar but one with different size bit holders is nice for tiny wire bits or more conventional size drill bits. [This](In-tool-home Precision Pin Vise Model Hand Drill Set with Twist Drill Bits Set of 11 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010BV7190/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_76PPzbE7Y2ZTF) is pretty much what I have and works great. It's not expensive, but I've got a super cheap pin vise I bought and kind of hate so I don't recommend going ultra cheap.

From most of the reviews of the knife, it comes with a pretty good edge, not razor sharp though.

Ok, after searching amazon, looks like the green compound is pretty cheap, so I'll get that. 6oz green compound for $3

And if 1000 grit is what I need for a whetstone, looks like you can get cheap ones on amazon too. Here's a double sided 250/1000 grit stone Also, the blade on the knife I'm getting is only 2.8 inches long, so I assume the size of this whetstone should be good enough.

I guess that's only $10 more than what I would have spend on sandpaper. I assume the cheap whetstone and green compound on cardboard would be a better choice? I also read that the back of a coffee cup is almost like a 1000 grit stone, but I assume the actual whetstone will just work a lot better?

Thanks for all the info.

>Between 3000K and 4000K, if growing a small tomato bush, which would you go for?

I'm conflicted actually.

Probably the 4000k, and this is the rational: The increased blue light will reduce stretching in plant, at lower light levels.

Why I'm conflicted is I know 3000k works fine, I like the warm light/ find it relaxing, and red spectrum helps with flowering (important in a tomato plant).

Ultimately it might come down to what had more lux or was on sale that day XD !

>is the PAR38 shape all that important

PAR (parabolic aluminized reflector) kind of is important, the reflector bit in particular, as it means there is more light going in the right direction and reaching the plant. Light intensity is more important than exact spectrum.

>could I go for a regular globe shape?

Yeah you could, just put it in a reflector.

Clean the tarnish off, then put something like Boeshield on it. Just slather it in the stuff, it dries to a sort of waxy coating. It's also amazing at keeping things from rusting, so even if it fails with the tarnish it's still really useful. I've used it to great success on galvanized rings to slow down the oxidizing of the zinc. It may help slow the tarnish a lot. The slouch in the middle might be more from the different weight of the rings, than a slight size difference.

Also, you bastard beatting me to it. I'll just go ahead and make an aluminum scale haubergeon for now. Cause if I say I'm going to make a bee next you'll probably beat me to that as well. :P

Sure here my take on your kit.

Much of your gear, is old school, thus real heavy, like things wrapped or made in leather. Seek to lighten up. Replace some with multiple usage instead of single use when possible.

You will increase your mileage with less efforts by reducing bulk and weight.

I love the pipes, I bring a few cigars myself. I like smoking stogies late at night by camp fire. Helps with bugs.

I would replace the 2 flasks with a single 3L water bladder.

Carry a box of Aquatabs, water filtering is not always enough. (Viruses in some context) and to cleanup/purify your water bladder.

The plastic spork (mine broke in the middle of a meal) with a titanium spork (exta long so it fits nicely inside those meal bags without burning or contaminating your meal on inserting your dirty camping fingers into your meal at each shovel full).

Substitute those meal bags with oatmeal and dehydrated fruit for breakfasts and lentils and rice, mixed with dehydrated mushrooms and vegetables for most meals. Made fresh at each site by simply boiling it in water with some seasoning, and is much healthier and low sodium and no preservative. It's less weight, more compact and each meal costing under $1.50 or less.

You can use Red Lentil, yellow or black , add rice, third of a cup of two colors around 1/2 cup total, add dehydrated veggies, shopped shiitake mushrooms or your favored dehydrated and chopped mushroom etc... Salt, pepper, etc, Fill water to the 500 ML mark, boil and voilà. You wont be able to find a cheaper yet healthy meal packed smaller, lighter and higher energy in any other way. This is a time proven recipe.

You can keep one or two envelope meals for when too tired to prep a real meal...

Add some energy bars, or protein bars for lunches, do not stop to eat, simply hike while munching on those, and you will never be hungry during hikes. Drink more fluids than usual.

You need a hat. (helps prevent heat exhaustion and heat stroke). Practice hat on in the sunlight, and hat off in the shades. It makes wearing a hat more bearable and reduces moisture loss.

You need bug repellent, and a facial bug net (depending on when and where, black flies can be a real issue).

Those simple meals should be complemented with "Electrolytes" boosters on hikes where you sweat profusely on hot days to replace fluids and other essential chemicals your body needs. Your sweat expresses chemicals that deplete your electrolytes and can make you sick to your stomach even though you hydrate, as water alone doest replace depleted body salts.

You have too many knives, you only need one. I substituted 3 of mine with a single mini multi tool and Light my fire knife which is so light my mini multi tool is actually heavier. You can sometimes find fully functional super mini multi tools in dollar stores for under $5.00 you really don't need anything more...

You need some para-cord (550 Lbs test). Great for surviving unexpected events or If only to repair shoe laces, hang food bags away from bears on a 15 foot branch or use as an line to secure a tent or tarp for day use on rainy days.

You need a small hiker's saw, with plastic handle (ultra light yet functional).

Ditch those gripless shoes and get real hikers, they provide real grip on slick even wet dirt, synthetics are ultra light, they breathe and you wont have any blisters. These look bloody uncomfortable for genuine long mileage hiking.

Get some carbon fiber hiking poles. (Costco has great robust light weight units for under $30.00)

Ditch the Kindle and learn mindfulness meditation. After all you are in deep wilderness in nature, learn to enjoy it...

I've actually just got my first table saw this week as well. After doing a lot of research before putting it all together, here's what I've found:

Watch this video and there are several other good videos on YouTube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxRSarTJLMU

As far as the cast iron top, remove any oil with WD-40 or mineral spirits, then protect with Boeshield and a paste wax. Johnson seems to be the common choice, but any should do as long as it's silicone free.
Read this: http://lumberjocks.com/topics/105746 (Boeshield mentioned in replies 12 and 13)
Boeshield: https://www.amazon.com/BOESHIELD-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK

You could also use a spray on dry lubricant like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Bostik-10220-Aerosol-Top-Cote/dp/B0000223UD

As far as waxing the blade, this link helped me realize I wasn't cleaning my blades on other saws and that would help a lot as well. It goes off topic but the first response mentions using a spray on "Topcote" like what I linked to just above on the blades after cleaning.
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/41371

For transparency sake: I haven't set it up yet. I'm picking up most of what I linked above today on my way home and I'll be doing all that stuff tonight.

Ya I had the same problem and ended up putting them on top of a shoebox to get them closer. I would definitely recommend getting them closer. Any idea what color temperature those bulbs are? I've read you want them around 5000k or above, and if they are really low, soft white bulbs they can cause stretching.
I don't know how much of a budget you are on, but if they continue to stretch too badly you could always supplement them with cool white 26 watt cfl lights. I ended up buying these things from Walmart: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007RKKEHA?pc_redir=1395095763&robot_redir=1
And I'm having a lot of success with them.
By the way anytime you have questions feel free to PM me and I can try to help. I love this stuff haha.

Sure! Here is what I originally started with. It works great once I have an edge, but setting the edge took a lot of time on really dull knives so I bought this extra coarse diamond hone. I love it, it sets my bevel in minutes so I can go back and finish the edge with the fine stones. For a few extra bucks, you can buy the whole diamond set. I would also recommend getting the mount so you can safely attach it to a workspace.

And finally, I learned how to use the system from Aaron Gough in his video here

Thanks for the info.

I feel I'm treading water here flip flopping back and forth.

So this is what I have come up with.

Sharpening:

https://www.amazon.com/DMT-D6EF-Dia-.../dp/B000GD3V3E
and
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PVXRJ0..._ZkHazb3N619JN

Chisels:

Stanley 16-791 Sweetheart 750 Series Socket Chisel Set, Brown, 4 - Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004TK0IG8..._MlHazbXRPYNVR

Included the 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and 1", add the 3/8" in separate.


That or the Narex set of 4 and the 5/8 from LV.

For some reason the Narex set looks more "robust" as the hornbeam handle on the sweetheart seems fragile...but after looking around more everyone says the sweetheart chisels are better than the narex. They seem to be identical to the ones on LV as on amazon for 30% less.

Great! That's super helpful. Looks like as far as knives go, your best bet is to stick with knives that don't lock OR require two hands to open. Since you're a minor I'd abide by both actually, and stick to a two-hand open knife without a blade lock. Fortunately, that's fairly common on multitools that are great for EDC.

My favorite small multitool is the Leatherman Squirt PS4. A more budget-friendly alternative would be a Gerber Dime. Each of these are a fantastic EDC multitool. The Leatherman is especially capable. I use mine all the time. If those won't work for you, you can't go wrong with a Victorinox Swiss army knife and I think they're availible pretty much everywhere.

As far as a flashlight goes, I suggest one that's USB Rechargeable. That makes it really easy to recharge and always have plenty of battery. The most EDC frieldly USB rechargeable light I know of is the Streamlight Microstream USB.

I don't know if those are availible in Germany or what they cost over there, but that should give you some ideas.

For the same price but for greater utility, better performance, more ease of use, better safety, not looking like a weirdo or idiot, and so forth:

A cheap actual tool set if you need stuff for home or workplace to share-

https://www.amazon.com/Cartman-Orange-39-Piece-Tool-Set/dp/B00RF9J8DY/

If you want a hammer and axe for camping and home use-

https://www.amazon.com/Estwing-Riggers-Axe-Hatchet-Reduction/dp/B00DT0OSF6/

Light drywall cutting and nailing alternative-

https://www.amazon.com/Westward-6DWK4-Drywall-Hammer-Steel/dp/B004V06TOQ/

If you want the actual tool capabilities of the multitool part but not the weight-

https://www.amazon.com/SWITCHEDGE-Tools-Crimson-Pocket-Knife/dp/B0103JS8H4/

Better multitool for everything-

https://www.amazon.com/Gerber-Dime-Multi-Tool-Black-30-000469/dp/B006M9NIDO/

I'm a believer in quality. All the stuff I have is going to last until the ends of the Earth.

Anyway...

You can get an All-In-One kit like Kobalt, or Stanley or Craftsman, but the quality doesn't seem there these days. They might be decent so long as you aren't trying to rebuild an aircraft carrier or something, though.

I'd look at this: https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-94-248-65-Piece-Homeowners-Tool/dp/B000UHMITE

Get the one with the screwdrivers and wrench. It's $57 for everything you'll likely need. My old Stanley stuff is okay, but I can't speak to the new stuff.

Another alternative is buying top quality individual tools and piecing together your own kit, but the prices can be steep.

I use Wera Kraftform Kompakt screwdriver. It has the bits in the handle. Usually, these are junk, but this one is very sturdy. Also, the shaft can be used in a drill. The bits are top quality and don't get spun out. $45.

You'll still want a regular set of screwdrivers because the one I mentioned earlier has a detach bit head and a short shank so it can't fit everywhere. Wera Classic 6-set $25.

For pliers, I get Channellock. They are also very sturdy and don't ruin bolt heads or make themselves hard to use from sloppy fit or slipping around. Crescent wrench $25. Regular pliers $11, needle nose pliers $17.

Plastic Stack On tool box $13. Total $136. Add a hammer and a tape rule and a small level for another $25 and you'll be set for a while. These tools will last forever. Also, a Makita cordless drill at some point. Mine is really powerful and fits my hand and was only $100.

Klein Tools 92906 ProPack 6 Apprentice Tool Set for Trade Professionals (6-Piece) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EKONLY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Qm5EAbQVA3JFH

That’s a good deal. It has lineman pliers, diagonal cutters, needle nose, wire strippers, and flat/ Phillips screwdrivers.

Screwdriver and Nut Driver 11-in-1 Multi Tool, Cushion Grip Handle, Industrial Strength Bits Klein Tools 32500 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yp5EAbSKE4D2A

This is a good all purpose screwdriver to carry around

Klein Tools NCVT-2 Dual Range Non-Contact Voltage Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FXJOQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qq5EAbTTZ8GYW

This is a non contact voltage tester and it might just save you some pain/your life

Channellock 440 12-Inch Tongue and Groove Plier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SBCU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xr5EAbWNKDP5C

You should probably get 2 pairs of these. It’ll help you twist on couplings and stuff

Stanley 33-725 25-Feet FatMax Tape Measure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002PV66/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Xs5EAbGVWXZDV

A lot of people like these tape measures for their larger claws

Klein Tools 98002BT Bottle Opener https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00093GENU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4u5EAb52FZ742

This will help for when you go home

These are some of the best entry-level options:

• Narex Classic Bevel Edge
  
• Woodriver
  
• Stanley 750
  
  If you want to spend a small amount more and get chisels for life, consider these. They are shockingly inexpensive for how good they are.
  
  You don't need to go to L-N/Veritas/Blue Spruce and spend $75+ apiece on the world's greatest chisels to get good results. You can cut perfect dovetails with any of these.
  
  For dovetails, I mostly use 1/4", 1/2" and 3/4". On smaller pieces, sometimes just 1/4" and 1/2". For casework, the 3/4" chisel comes out a lot more.
  
  When clearing tail baselines, I like my chisel to be slightly more than half of the length of the baseline. This way, I get the whole thing in two strokes per side, and both strokes have plenty of knife line available for registration.
  
  Also, if you are going for super skinny pins, especially in thin stock, you may need to go smaller than 1/4". If your smallest chisel is 1/4", make sure that when you lay out your dovetails, the pin sockets are at least that wide. If you find yourself bruising the sides of your tails because you don't have room to maneuver, it's a sign that you need a smaller chisel or a larger pin.
  
  It's also useful to have a much wider chisel than 1/2" for paring and strengthening knife lines. Something in the 1"-2" range. This is less dovetailing-specific, but dovetails aren't the only joinery involved in making boxes.
  
  As for other tools:
  
  
• A cutting gauge like this for marking baselines.
  
• A try square or combo square
  
• A dovetail saw. The best bang/$ is this one.
  
• A dovetail marker: make it yourself.
  
• Some means for jointing and thicknessing stock.
  
• A way to hold boards upright while you work on them. You can make a Moxon vise out of scraps and inexpensive hardware.
  
• A saw to remove waste. I use a fret saw most of the time--with a little practice it's quick and efficient. Some people use coping saws. On larger/thicker dovetails (>1" stock), I sometimes use a turning saw.
  

I looked at these for awhile but decided to take a chance and spend the money on what people claimed to be the superior tool, and having used it for awhile now I can agree it is awesome.

Behold, the Knipex 10" Pliers Wrench

It works like a combination crescent wrench / channel lock but has a lever mechanism (like vise grips) that bites down hard when you squeeze the handles together. Basically the harder you push/pull, the tighter the grip gets. The jaws always stay parallel so you can even use it on small nuts/bolts. Superb German design and construction. I am not a pro mechanic (or really a pro anything) but this is one of the coolest tools I've ever bought and is totally worth the $50 (at least if you like to buy awesome/$$$ tools). Oh and no more messing with that dumb thumbwheel on the crescent wrench. Fuck those things.

Not sure if you already have these clippers yet but I find them pretty convenient when trimming leads.

With decks like that I generally like to use the positive that's furthest away from the negative per coil, I find it easier to keep the coil centered and accessible for trimming. Usually I'd make my adjustments after everything is trimmed.

I'm not telling you to buy anything different but a velocity style deck is really easy to build on for someone new and keep things as even as possible.

This set of Stanley Sweetheart chisels is on sale for $83 which is a really good deal. Normally the chisels run around $30 per unit at a place like rockler. I'd put them a step above chisels like Narex (which aren't "bad" by any shot) but still below a brand like Ashley Isles or Pfeil.

Great set if you're looking to upgrade from something like harbor freight chisels.

I've had one of these for almost 10 years, and it's worked great for spreading wax AND polishing with several menzerna products as well as megs ultimate compound. There's no speed adjustment and you have to use those turtle wax style microfiber bonets, but it was the best thing around for $30 for a while. http://amzn.com/B000077CPT

Now that the HarborFreight one is out and uses regular pads, is adjustable speed and is reliable, that $60-70 seems like the best way to go.

When I was a field tech, mostly working with structured cabling and networking equipment I took the following along with me, some of these things are no longer needed with VOIP phones though:

• Klein Scissors, great for working with cabling. http://www.amazon.com/Klein-2100-7-Electricians-Scissors-Stripping/dp/B000VL03NC/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_2
  
  
• Klein 11-in-1 screwdriver (I actually had two) http://www.amazon.com/Klein-32500-Screwdriver-Driver-Cushion/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_text_y
  
  
• Harris puncdown tool ( I think fluke took them over though in quality) the little flip out hook is really useful when doing 66 blocks or panels - something like this http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-D914S-10061810-impact-EverSharp/dp/B000GA6QEI/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1377872619&sr=1-2&keywords=harris+punch+down+tool (You can get cheaper here, but I burned through the ideal ones pretty fast. The harris ones seemed to last a while).
  
  
• Multimeter (Fluke makes some nice ones)
  
  
• Cable Tester - this will do phone, coax, cat5/6 and isn't crazy priced. You can buy more remotes for it too: http://www.amazon.com/Test-Um-TP300-Resi-Tester/dp/B000J15CEE/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1377872779&sr=8-7&keywords=test+um+cable+tester
  
  
• Tone and probe kit (sends a signal over a cable and you can use the wand to figure out what cable it is. Killer for unmarked cables. You'll probably want to take some jacks and make up your own adapters too) - http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-PRO3000-Tone-Probe/dp/B000FTADX0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377872864&sr=8-1&keywords=harris+tone
  
  
• Banjo adapter is nice if you don't want to make your own: http://www.amazon.com/Paladin-Tools-1902-Modular-Adapter/dp/B000099O64/ref=pd_sim_indust_13
  
  
• If you have traditional phone lines to deal with, a buttset (or linemans set) isn't a bad thing to have either.
  
  
• Some coax tools (crimper/stripper)
  
  
• A drywall saw
  
  
• A decent tool bag. I used a generic husky one from lowes.
  
  
• A drill (keep the charger in the bag) and a decent bit set
  
  
• A box of random screws and anchors
  
  
• Bigass roll of velcro
  
  
• Double sided tape
  
  
• ALL the connectors (in bulk)
  
  
• Electrical tape
  
  
• Pull string anytime you fish a conduit or a pain in the ass space, leave a string.
  
  
• Various standard hand tools, spackle isn't bad to have and a putty knife, I had a cheap soldering iron and some basic stuff for it too. Sharpies (a whole pack of them). A level, a tape measure.
  
  
• A label maker! Brother makes a bunch. Label everything!
  
  
• Flashlight. I carried two. One small penlight on myself (streamlight) and one that shared the batteries with my drill.
  
  Obviously this all doesnt go in one bag, but I had mine in my car/truck all the time. It'd be a lot easier in an office.

No problem.

Kershaw Scallion (Small, assisted opening, steel is not so great)

Kershaw Skyline (good size, G10, nice blade shape, steel can get to a crazy level of sharpness)

Kershaw OSO Sweet (pretty cool assisted opener, great price there on amazon)

Spyderco Tenacious (same decent steel on the OSO Sweet and Byrd, good G10, good blade shape, Spyderco quality, great value)

Byrd Cara2 (Great value, overseas production brings prices way down on all Byrd knives)


Here is one above your price range

And one below your price range

I have a cheap orbital car buffer that I use to get out muscle soreness. I have this one and use it with the soft wool pad. Light pressure flat on big muscles does a general massage and I use the edge to dig into knots. It sounds utterly ridiculous, but a CrossFit friend turned me on to this and it really works. I got a better massage with it in 5 minutes than any foam roller, stick, or deep tissue massage I've ever had.

Also, it exfoliates and works pretty well for buffing your car (4 stars on Amazon) :)

I would suggest never taking photos in full sunlight. It can really change how the color is perceived.

I paint in oils and acrylic, and because I’m cheap I photograph my own work. There’s a technique in photographing indoors, but I prefer to take photos outside on a cloudy day out of direct light. This lessens the chance of having hot spots, and I’ll still probably have to color correct in photoshop as even in that light the sun can photograph the work as too warm or too cool depending on the time of year.

I’m not sure if you’re photographing 2d or 3d work, but the rules are different for each. You could jury-rigg a light diffuser. You can get a couple of these (you may be able to find something like this cheaper at a local hardware store or Walmart), put in a daylight bulb, look for one that’s not warm or cool. You want the light to be in the middle of the spectrum, some hardware stores have lightbulb samples. Then to diffuse the light put white paper or cloth between the bulb and your object. Make sure if your bulb gets hot that it’s not close enough to burn your diffuser. I suggest vellum, or plain white paper, or a very thin white sheet. You are just looking to make the shadow less harsh, and you want two lights because you want the light on either side of your object. For the background use something neutral. If your work is three dimensional you’ll want to curve the background. This video has instructions https://youtu.be/Vz-3hKfgs5I

It’s up to you to represent your work accurately to the buyer. If you keep getting this complaint I would suggest you change how you photograph your work, and not blame the customer for not reading your disclaimer. Besides you could be losing sales because potential customers won’t buy because they can’t be sure of what they’re getting.

Good luck.

These.

Kinda flimsy but they work. I got the bigger size to fit larger nendo/figma kits or for scales with extra parts. I took the cardboard the box came in and cut 'slats' to put into the grooves in the middle to break each bin into two parts.

Each 'half-bin' is perfectly sizes for a single nendoroids spare parts. Easily fit 3 faceplates and accessories.

48 total half-bin means its good bang for the buck.

I assume you already have lacrosse balls, but this is a really good tool too, using a car polisher for myofascial release or stripping.

https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-WP900-6-Inch-Polisher/dp/B000077CPT/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1502402094&sr=1-2&keywords=orbital+polisher

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5ictPToU9M

The closest thing you can get to that's meant to use on humans is a percussor, which is >$300. Battery lasts for a couple hundred hours

All my bodywork practitioners got them after I showed them mine.

This acupressure mat is good too, you can wrap your arms in it or dig your hands into it: http://www.heavenlymats.com/

Those are my favorites. I do a bit of thai massage for fun.

You would be better off making your own. I've found that a lot of the sets are cheap.

Here's my take on it.

1.Cable tester:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d
/B000P1OA1O?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1412645606&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

Simple cat5 tester, cheap and works decently.

2. Cable stripper:

Here I've given two options, one is a spinning stripper made for things like taking the jacket off cat5, the second is a more of an electrical stripper for a bunch of gauges of wire with cutters at the back side. If your comfortable with it you can use the cutters to strip just about anything.

2.a http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0099DIV4G?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1412645735&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

2.b. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00080DPNQ?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1412645735&sr=8-12#ref=mp_s_a_1_12

3.punchdown tool :
If your in a spot where you get to do punchdowns it's nice to have, they are cheap and work well,

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KMFDZ0?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1412646040&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

4. Cat 5 ends:
Always keep plenty of these, a bag of them is cheap and you will be glad you have them.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003M5BIII?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1412646222&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

5: crimper:

Never underestimate a good crimper. I have had no luck with the cutting portion of them but that's why I have other tools.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000AZK4G?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1412646393&sr=8-2#ref=mp_s_a_1_2

6. #2 philps head.
I like ratcheting screw drivers with multiple heads but this is easily the most used screwdriver in my set.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NNK9MS?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1412646575&sr=8-5#ref=mp_s_a_1_5

The flat head out of this set is also nice, depending on your bag keep them all handy.


Everything beyond this point is optional or situational.

8. Power supply tester: if you do any sort of computer repair these are very handy to hold on to.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001MKCALY?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1412646902&sr=8-3#ref=mp_s_a_1_3

9. Tweaker: good for laptop repair or if you deal with any sort of building controllers/ low voltage electrical.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0058I6VNE?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1412647026&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

I also have a similar sized Philips head screw driver but I use it much less frequently.

10. Electrical tape: some people say it's for those who mess up doing electrical, I call it insurance.

11. Linemans: I use mine to crimp chicklets mostly but they come in handy a lot. I couldn't find the exact ones I use b

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000A0S4XK?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1412647275&sr=8-4#ref=mp_s_a_1_4


12: a bag:
Personally, I use an old back pack. I find its a lot easier to carry that along with a box of cable. This is entirely preference.

Ok, $100 isn't going to go very far, especially if you need everything, but here we go.

Whetstone - This is slightly better than the hardware store combination stones, but it's cheap, it's a water stone, and it's got a good grit combo.

Handsaw - Japanese style, cuts on a pull stroke, crosscut and rip teeth. I have this exact saw, still works pretty damn good after a dozen years of occasional use.

Beater chisels - Not the best steel, but a chisel is better than no chisel. You'll want at least 2 sets of chisels anyway - don't beat the hell out of your good set.

Block plane - Don't expect super high quality from Stanley anymore, but we've all got at least one of these little block planes somewhere.

And I'm $6 above the gift card budget. The chisels and plane will need some sharpening before use, but it's enough to get you started. You still need marking/measuring tools, a square, a work surface, clamps, vise, and obviously, some wood to sink your teeth into.

Yeah man, all you do is cut into some cork, super glue in some wire (in this case mine is 15 gauge I think?), find a drill bit that matches said wire and then drill where ever you desire on the mini for mounting. You can find hobby drill bits/vices online pretty easy. Corks I had lying around, wire I got from Hobby Lobby (general arts and crafts store) and my drill stuff I got off Amazon (link https://www.amazon.com/tool-home-Precision-Model-Drill-Twist/dp/B010BV7190/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1510382874&sr=8-3&keywords=hobby+drill&dpID=51x%252B7gNAlgL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch ) EDIT: When I did my Primaris arms, I just drilled out the barrels and the wire fit perfectly in them too.

Yuppers! Amazon has the best price for stanley sweetheart chisels. The 4 piece is plenty: http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-16-791-Sweetheart-Socket-Chisel/dp/B004TK0IG8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453931261&sr=8-1&keywords=stanley+sweetheart+750

The 24" K-body revo clamps should be excellent size for most of your projects (in addition to couple of 6" clamps). http://www.homedepot.com/p/BESSEY-24-in-K-Body-REVO-Parallel-Clamp-with-Composite-Plastic-Handle-and-3-3-4-in-Throat-Depth-KR3-524/204986215

Ohh...consumables are good from home depot also. Such as sand paper.

I can almost guarantee this is cable-related, especially given the intermittent nature of the issue. First, make sure the cable isn't loose, and try to push the cables into the connectors a bit. If this doesn't fix your issue, you will need to fix the cable.

A cat5 cable is comprised of four twisted pairs, a total of 8 little
wires. Somewhere in those 20m, one of those wires is cut or damaged.

It is most likely to be at the tip where the RJ45 connector (clear piece) attaches, and if the cable is run through the floors, you better hope this is the case.

Figure out what order the cables go into the connector by looking at them. They are identified with pairs of colours, as shown here

The connector will most likely look like this

Notice that there are two distinct standards. It's important that you use the same standard when re-crimping the cables on both ends.

You can simply cut about 10cm off each end, and obtain a crimper tool to reattach new connectors.

To use the crimper, insert the ends of the cables into the slots in the "empty" connectors, and then press down with the crimper to lock them into place. It's not very difficult, but you need to decide if it's worth your time and effort.

If the break in the cable is in the middle (unlikely, but possible) you're looking at ripping out the cable and running a whole new one. I don't know how exactly the cable is run, if it comes through a plate in the wall, or if it's just a cat5 cable shoved through a hole drilled in the wall, but either way replacing it is going to be pretty expensive unless you do it yourself. I would personally recommend doing this professionally, and getting two "plugs" installed in the walls.

edit: If you know any computer geeks who might know how to do this, or who already have a crimper, invite them over for a beer or something it'll take them 5 minutes

edit2: If you live in Montreal i have the day off and like beer

Make sure you look up how to attach the cable ends to the cables. There are 8 wires in the cable and they're color coded. You have to put them in the correct order or they won't work. [Technically, the actual color order doesn't matter, but they have to be consistent.]

Might not be worth it for a one-time job, but a cable tester like:
http://www.amazon.com/HDE-HDE-H11-Network-Cable-Tester/dp/B000P1OA1O
... is handy to check your work before it drives you insane. You plug in the remote to one end and the base to the other and it lights up if you have a connection or shows mismatches. When you're done, you can test cables using the base. Definitely worth the $5 since now you can make custom length ethernet cables for a fraction of the cost you can buy them at the store for.

You have to decide if you want to put plug ends on (like the end of an ethernet cable) which will plug straight into your device or receptacles that you mount to the floor/wall in a plate (and then you use a regular cable [that you can now make!] to connect it to your device.)

They both work, the receptacles and plates look nicer than a cable sticking out of the floor.

You'll need a drill and drill bits to put holes in things.
If you're going under, you'll want clips that hold the cable in place, maybe. Zipties work too.

You'll need a crimper, like:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZK4G
You get the wires lined up into the plug and this squeezes the metal contacts down into the wires to hold them and make a connection.

It's totally doable, go for it!

Um, yes, let me find it!

It's super awesome!

Here it is! AND it's super inexpensive! http://www.amazon.com/SE-MT908-Function-Credit-Survival/dp/B000Q06LI4/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1347304826&sr=8-15&keywords=all+in+one+tool+card

Edit: Needs more of these ->!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

To clarify:

A switch will several ethernet ports. One of these is an "uplink" port, and the rest are for your devices.

If you connect the "uplink" port to something that would allow a computer to connect to the internet, it can provide that to everything else plugged into it.

A switch doesn't provide internet access or wireless connectivity on its own.

I would recommend:

• Take the plug out of the keystone
  
• Plug it into the "Uplink" port of a switch. (Many new switches have auto-uplink, which means it doesn't matter)
  
• Cut off the cancerous mess of wires. They're hooked up completely wrong (which is the main reason it got crossposted to /r/cablefail - it definitely belongs.) Just cut back to where you have plastic sheathing again and start fresh.
  
  • For whatever reason they thought they could just hook all the same colors together. That doesn't work. There are a few tricks you can pull with different pairs, but this definitely isn't one of them.
    
• Use an ethernet crimping tool like this to attach RJ-45 jacks like this to the wires, using this wire arrangement.
  
  • You can find these at most larger hardware stores, like Home Depot or Lowes. Look in the electrical wiring sections.
    
  • Don't strip the wires before putting them in the jack. The crimping tool pushes small spikes through the sheathing into the wire.
    
• Plug all the freshly crimped cables into the ethernet ports on the switch.
  
  The only possible reason I can think for this arrangement is if those were supposed to be phone lines, which work completely differently and usually use a different plug. (Many businesses do use RJ45 and cat5 for phones, but they don't do it quite like that)
  
  If you draw out the layout for how your network should work, it should look something like this:
  
  
• Router
  
  • Devices connected directly to router
    
  • Switch, through wall cable
    
    • Wall Jack 1
      
    • Wall Jack 2
      
    • etc.
      

Typical home owners and typical car diy people don't need snap on tools. Yes they're much much better than Craftsman and 10000x better than harbor freight, but they are over kill for home use. I would definitely go buy decent tools over the cheap harbor freight kits. I had a few of the wrenches snap, and sockets chip far too easily. I have a decent 100 something piece set of Craftsman I bought during black Friday for about 35 dollars. One of the best investments I made in tools.

The only thing I actually bought that was top of the line are knipex locking pliers. My God. They are... I can't even explain how amazing they are. They have never slipped, ever. Even on wet nuts, total lockage. http://www.amazon.com/Knipex-8603250-10-Inch-Pliers-Wrench/dp/B000X4OG94

I have a bunch of items listed as highest priority. It was a guitar up until I bought one for myself at guitar center. Now I need things like a stand, picks, a strap, etc.

My highest priority item is probably this toolkit which has been on my WL since I joined RAOA. I have no idea why I still haven't just gotten it for myself considering I could have many times over. We have basically no tools in our apartment, so I'm even more useless than normal when it comes to fixing things.

I REALLY need a new 360 controller. I may or may not have shattered mine a while back, and I'm currently playing with it held together by tape, and sometimes a button or two doesn't work. It's really frustrating.

I also have GT6 listed as highest, because it is honestly my favorite gaming franchise of all time, and I love every one of the GT games.

This thing is listed as highest because I would really like to listen to my own music in the car, but don't have an aux cable. I can get one, but I need a special part (because my car stereo is set up REALLY stupid), and it's $120 and comes from the UK. That item is listed as highest priority too, but it's not on amazon.

By the way, you are awesome :D :D

I have and like my swiss card, it isn't really credit card sized IMO, but it has really useful tools, just not that fit in your wallet, I keep a $1.50 card knife in my wallet that comes in handy a lot.

http://www.amazon.com/SE-MT908-Function-Credit-Survival/dp/B000Q06LI4/ref=cm_lmf_tit_3/177-4685031-0787254

That is pretty much exactly what I have, I don't use the blade function often but the wrench, bottle cap opener and saw have all come in handy in a pinch.

I don't normally recommend cheaper products but this one has worked really well.

If your needing more blade oriented card knives then one of these could be recommended:
http://iainsinclair.com/products.php
But if you like the boker card knife that might work, can't speak from experience on those though.

"Dikes". Believe it or not, those are diagonal cutters.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diagonal_pliers

Look under "jargon".

Also, as an aside, if you want high quality "channel locks" look no further than a German brand called Knipex (pronounced Kinnepex). I'm partial to the push button Cobra plier, but the more traditional "water pump plier" is also excellent. They cost a lot more than Channel Lock, but they have excellent leverage and really tough jaws that are narrow enough to fit into spaces other brands can't reach.

They also make a tool called the Pliers Wrench that replaces your adjustable crescent wrench and doesn't slip, need constant adjustment or round off corners.

Finally, their high leverage "dikes" get extremely high ratings.

Sorry to sidetrack you with a sales pitch, but I got excited when I read that you were starting to shop for better tools. If I had known about this brand ten years ago, I would have bought them first instead of wasting my money on cheaper tools.

Freehand and under $15 the Whetstone Cutlery 400/1000 Grit Whetstone is a nice starting affordable freehand whetstone.

Guided and under $25 the Work Sharp Guided Field Sharpener is a nice mini complete package that includes a 220 grid diamond plate for chip repair, a fine 600 grit diamond plate, 1000+ grit ceramic rod and a leather strop with compound.

You can also send the knife back to Kershaw for a free sharpening then just invest in a nice strop with compound to touch up the edge. Done properly you only need to send it back to Kershaw probably once a year if that.

In the spirit of staying buget, you could get a budget bipod that works fine too: http://www.amazon.com/Hunting-Adjustable-Spring-Return-Sniper/dp/B00U27O9TY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1463606745&sr=8-2&keywords=swivel+bipod

The primary arms 4-14 is great. I'd choose the R-Grid over the mil-dot.

http://www.primaryarms.com/pa4-14xffp-r-grid/p/kt-pa4-14xffp-r-grid/

I'd just pair that scope with the accompanying primary arms low rings too.

Get a fat wrench:
http://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Firearms-Accurizing-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0012AXR4S

So you can torque everything to spec including the top rail to action and action screws (action to bottom metal).

Might consider a muzzle brake, rear bag and stock pack too, but see first how your face is sitting on the rifle.

You should be able to lay down on the rifle, close your eyes and basically go to sleep, and then open them and still have a great sight picture. So your 'resting' position on the stock should put you in line with the scope.

Others will chime in with great budget options for break, stock pack, and rear bag. I just always get triad tactical things for my rifles.

You could possibly save some weight with a couple little things like the spade, multitool, headlamp etc.

http://www.amazon.com/Gerber-Dime-Multi-Tool-Black-30-000469/dp/B006M9NIDO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457458207&sr=8-1&keywords=gerber+dime

~ 2.3 oz saves 5.4 oz at $16

http://gossamergear.com/deuce-of-spades.html

~ .17 oz saves about 4.2 oz at $20

http://www.amazon.com/Petzl-e-LITE-26-Lumens/dp/B008AUBOTS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457458402&sr=8-1&keywords=petzl+e-lite

~ 1oz saves 1.2 oz at $30



No cost
Leave the wallet at home

saves 4oz

Don't take as much hand sanitizer. Put in a smaller dropper bottle

saves ~ 1.7 oz


Total saves about 16.5 oz or just over a pound for $66.


Otherwise if you want a big ticket item maybe the pack would be a good upgrade. http://www.zpacks.com/backpacks/arc_blast.shtml is 21oz at $325. But you might want to sort out your final tent before your pack so that you know your pack is the right size for your gear. tarptent.com has light weight tents for 2 people for under $300 like the squall 2 at a total of 34oz. that would save you about 30oz.

The Morakniv Companion seems like a good starting point. Pretty cheap where I'm at ordering from Amazon.

Granted, I have a couple Gerbers. Mostly paraframe folders, and for the price, you're better off with a Chinese Kershaw, like the Oso Sweet

Highly recommend Unifi AP's with a mikrotik controller. Even better if you can leave an old laptop on site for managing the unifi stuff remotely.

A single unifi outdoor model might be a good place to start, then it doesn't need to be located inside the tenants premises-- no one wants to have a tech banging around in their attic to re-align the antenna. They are also very impressive with better range than the enterprise or long range hockey puck units.

Adding additional units if necessary (and the software will be able to tell you unlike other brands/models) is a cinch, the controller software sets them up so that the network is seamless and centrally controllable.

A mikrotik rb2011 would be a good choice for a router. It has 10 ethernet ports which is formidable, and it has lots of horsepower so that you can implement content blocking if necessary to preserver the quality of the network.

http://www.amazon.com/Mikrotik-RB2011L-IN-10-Ethernet-Ports/dp/B008GZ7NEC/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1405127763&sr=1-4&keywords=rb2011

http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UniFI-Outdoor-Access-802-11bgn/dp/B0066DV06I/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1405127813&sr=1-1&keywords=unifi+outdoor

Don't forget CAT5e, RJ-45 connectors, and a crimping tool if you don't have them already:

http://www.amazon.com/Cat5e-Ethernet-Cable-500ft-Cat-5e/dp/B0092THNDW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405127939&sr=8-1&keywords=cat5e

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Tester-Crimper-Connector-Network/dp/B008UY5WL0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405127990&sr=8-1&keywords=rj-45+crimpers

I wouldn't call it art but I make bead sprites of video game characters and stuff. I'll try and post pictures later when I get light, it's currently 4am.

I love myself because... I have nice hair?

I need this to organize my beads Better. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TV3NL0/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_zD.qtb0WSBE33

My wife used to use it for arts and craft. I am pretty sure she got it in England. I found something similar on amazon and I am pretty sure you can get something like that at Hobbylobby or Michaels as well. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003TV3NL0/ref=mp_s_a_1_34?qid=1451571351&sr=8-34&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=small+box+organizer&dpPl=1&dpID=51ZlRZllqNL&ref=plSrch

Craftsman Table Saw Model # $150


Shop Fox model #G8826 fence system $275


Freud P410 Premier Fusion 10-Inch 40 Tooth Hi-ATB General Purpose Saw Blade $80


Wilton 15” drill press $100


Parks 12” planer $600 This requires a little road trip

Atlas 6” jointer $150 Model #


Delta 10” bandsaw, Powerkraft radial arm saw and Rockwell contractor table saw $200
I would resell one of the tablesaws Just pick the nicest one and sell the other.


Oneway Multi Gauge $97 This is for setting the jointer perfectly and the dial indicator can be removed to make planer setting jig as described by Bob Vaughan (see youtube) or fine woodworking 107.


Angle block set for machine setup $30


Bessey Bar Clamps $14x3 plus maybe $10x3 for bars Say $75 total


Stanley sweetheart chisel set of 4 $80



This leaves $243 left for misc things like drill bits, planer/jointer knives or sharpening F style clamps a cordless drill, random orbit sander, sand paper ect.

I would recommend buying the Adafruit 200mAh battery, just to avoid Chinese knockoffs.

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Packs-Lithium-3-7v-2000mAh/dp/B0137ITW46/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485110664&sr=8-1&keywords=2000mah+battery

There's a video you can Google pretty easily for replacing the battery. I'd recommend having a small screwdriver set and also angle cutters of some sort, something like https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Stand-off-Construction-21-Degree/dp/B017ODDPNO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485110742&sr=8-1&keywords=angle+cutter though it isn't really necessary, just makes it easier than using needle nose pliers and it is cleaner.

I boight a cheap hand drill for modeling off amazon ! It’s easier than it sounds tbh !! Patience is key. drilling is easy actually !

This is the one I have :

In-tool-home Precision Pin Vise Model Hand Drill Set with Twist Drill Bits Set of 11 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010BV7190/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SrBJBbRA7ZB78

I would even go one further, and it's something that's without fail for me - A small set of tools. You can buy an "OK" set of tools, in a box set (screwdrivers, ratchet sets, wrenches, etc) for cheap. You don't need to spend $1000 on something, just a basic cheap set. I have one sitting in my car for emergencies, and it's come in handy many times in a pinch! Just found one on amazon for about $35. Super cheap, super handy.

Just stash that kit in a closet or something. Better to always be prepared than to not be!

The Klein 11-in-1 Screwdriver is an amazing companion. The torx bit is perfect for the screws in HP desktops and the phillips bits have good bite.

Otherwise, you pretty much have that I would carry myself. I would add what /u/bitbucket87 mentioned for sure.

Which "super-fine" Lansky hone should I get to accompany the Deluxe Diamond Set that I purchased, seen here:

http://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Diamond-Deluxe-Sharpening-System/dp/B000B8L6LS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1452449613&sr=8-3&keywords=lansky

I feel that I would like to get a sharper edge than what I can achieve with this basic set. I was considering between the Ultra fine here:

http://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Ultra-Sharpening-Yellow-Holder/dp/B000B8L6MC/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1452449613&sr=8-11&keywords=lansky

or the Super Sapphie polishing hone

http://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Super-Sapphire-Polishing-Hone/dp/B000B8IEB8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1452449613&sr=8-5&keywords=lansky

Both of which have been recommended, however I do think the ultra fine is better for sharpening, rather than polishing, no?

Actually this is wrong. Aluminum is highly corrosive, which is actually a good thing, well mostly. It quickly oxidizes forming a thin "skin" that protects the underlying material from most weather and chemicals.

In the aviation world corrosion is a big concern and we generally deal with it through use of zinc-chromate primers or sometimes plating which has various approaches. You can even use wax if you really want to, think BoeSheild T-9 or ACF-50.

As for why it is good for bicycles. Probably the biggest two factors are low cost and the ease with which it can be extruded, milled and machined into usable shapes for bicycles. All things being equal if I was building a bicycle out of a metal it would be Titanium hands down. If I was building to a price point however, Aluminum wins.

You can crimp ethernet cables quite easily - just need the end pieces and a crimp tool (this kit is GREAT)

Power cables can also be done but are a bit easier then Ethernet or telephone cables as they are just a positive/negative/ground wire into an end....pretty straight forward but I advise getting a cord that is already destroyed and working on it first...duh :P should just be copper inside colored tubes that goes to a specific end...typically red is power spot / grey or black is negative / and a completely different color is for ground - but that is a guess on my part as I've not taken one apart in forever as it is cheaper and faster to just get a different/new one.

Telephone cables are basically the same as Ethernet, just need to know the wire pin layout <-- that link is both RJ11 telephone and RJ45 ethernet layouts and its the same process (obviously need telephone ends to crimp onto it - that link has 50 to a bag).

Most cables are straight forward ESPECIALLY with the internet having the answer to cable layouts and everything :)

EDIT - once you do an ethernet cable crimp job everything else becomes very easy haha.

From a previous post of mine on a similar subject. Just used all of this today on three bikes.

Simple Green is your friend. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017D1GG6?ref_=wms_ohs_product&redirect=true&psc=1&pldnSite=1
This ^ will last you a long time. I clean my discs with it to remove the squeak also.

This http://www.amazon.com/Park-CM-5-2-Cyclone-Chain-Scrubber/dp/B007HDNOT2/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1398709921&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=park+tool+chain+cleaner plus simple green = a super chain cleaning.

Also a little car paint detailer keeps it shiny shiny. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQXAE?ref_=sr_1_cc_2&s=aps&qid=1398709624&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=meguires%20detailer&pldnSite=1
Just spray it into a rag and not directly onto the frame to prevent over spray on the discs/pads.

As others have mentioned, a good lube (Boeshield T9 for example) should be matched to your riding conditions and applied.
http://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1398709998&sr=1-1&keywords=boeshield+t-9

Yup, I just replaced it and its been working fine ever since. There are various youtube videos on replacing the power supply, its easy. You'll need a TR8 screwdriver. I bought a set that costs around 15$ CAD. Power supply cost about 55$.

​

https://www.amazon.ca/TEKTON-2830-Everybit-Precision-Electronic/dp/B009MKGRQA/ref=sr_1_7?crid=3I5S4DKEMKDAF&keywords=tekton+screwdriver+set&qid=1566453570&s=gateway&sprefix=tekton+sc%2Caps%2C153&sr=8-7

​

https://www.amazon.ca/ADP-240CR-Replacement-Playstation-CUH-1100A-CUH-1115A/dp/B07GYJWXZ7/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2CIXD4AMOGG25&keywords=ps4+power+supply&qid=1566453593&s=gateway&sprefix=ps4+power+supply%2Caps%2C134&sr=8-3

There are tons of guides and videos on youtube to help you out. Its not complicated. There are around 7 screws(4 on the back of the PS4 and 3 holding the power supply in) you gotta take out. Unplug it and pull it straight out while trying not to bend the prongs. Pop your new power supply and screw everything back up. Took me about 10 minutes. I hope that fixes your issue because if it doesn't, then it might be the logic board and you might need professional help.

Not sure about that one in particular but my friend has one of these and swears by it:

http://www.amazon.com/Klein-32500-Screwdriver-Driver-Cushion/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427291911&sr=8-1&keywords=klein+screwdriver

It's a pretty neat design and is quick to switch the drivers. It's also a Klein so it should be high quality.

Just a simple setup would be, in no particular order:

 

• Vise
  
• AR Tool - I have a powder coated green AR tool, forgot who makes it.
  
• Screwdrivers
  
• Good Lighting - Seriously, a good light source goes a long ways in the ease of building things. I have a drafting lamp very similar to this type.
  
• AR Mat - Useful for putting stuff together (and cleaning of course) your AR on your desk/dinner table, so your wife or SO won't murder you. I have this cleaning mat.
  
• Roll Pin Punches - I used a set of regular punches from Lowe's for a while, i finally got around to getting a set of actual roll pin punches on Amazon recently.
  
• Small Hammer - I got this small 8-ounce hammer on Amazon. It's perfect for use with the roll pin punches.
  
• Mallet - Useful for hitting things without marring up the finish.
  
• Vise Block - I use a Magpul Bev block for work on my lower or upper. Waiting for the next Geissele sale so i can snag a Geissele Super Reaction Rod to replace the Bev block on upper work.
  
• Allen Wrenches - I have this set of 3 hex-torx allen wrenches. Super handy for rails and other mount screws. Might also want a long handle set if you use a hex screw for your pistol grip like i do.
  
• Torque Wrench - I have this Tekton torque wrench for barrels nuts, castle nuts (if you do torque yours, i don't usually), and whatever else needs to be torqued.
  
• Torque Screwdriver Kit - I have this Wheeler Torque Wrench/Screwdriver set, super handy for screws that require a certain torque spec.
  
   
  
  That's what i can think of off the top of my head, you probably won't need all of that if you only plan on building a lower first. It'll be useful down the line to get most of those tools, but i'd go with first:
  
  
• AR tool
  
• Bev Block/Vise Blocks/Reaction Rod
  
• Roll Pin Punches
  
• Vise
  
  If you have Amazon Prime, there's quite a bit of stuff you can get on there, it's where i got most of my tools.
  
   
  
  ^Edit: ^Formatting.

It was a $30 deal I picked up from Amazon. The paint is brand new and doesn't need correction per-se - I have the polisher for... well, polishing. Maybe "buffer" is a better term. I have a dewalt random orbital "sander" I use for actual cutting if needed. The cheapo polisher actually works really well for making things shiny though, and I figured it would also work for gently cleaning paint and stripping wax/product. I don't think that's the problem because it was only one panel that had problems shrug

I'm not new to detailing, just coating. I'm more curious how the application will respond to further polishing, and how aggressive of a product to use for that purpose so the entire application won't be removed. Also, how long to wait before doing the opticoat "correction." It seems like so many people have issues with streaking, that it would be easier to just work a post-application polish into the workflow if that gets more consistent results. I do appreciate the comments though.

I will use the "real" tool to carefully re-prep the rest of the car to see if that makes a difference. I was just going with the "less agressive" option to start since the paint is mostly pristine already.

Edit - what I used is similar to this

I have one like that on some plants that aren't succulents and it's going really well. I just stuck some succulents under it too so we'll see how that goes. However, I have most of my succulents under this. It's super cheap, you just need a CFL lightbulb that has a "daylight" color (between 5000k-6500k) and is the equivalent of a 75 or higher watt bulb. Something like this (this is a four pack). You could get two of the one I use, plus light bulbs, for less than the one you linked too. And the clasp on the one I linked to is much stronger and bigger than on the LED light, so it's easier to attach in more places.

Edit to add that the clamp lamp with the reflector has a cord and an on-off switch. The picture makes it look like it's just a reflector and that you need to buy your own cord for the lightbulb.

Heres a link to an article that you might find helpful

https://mikatan.goodsmile.info/en/2016/10/03/diy-nendoroid-repairs-part-1-removing-broken-joints/

​

As for the tools you'll need, they can be found here on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010BV7190/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y27JWS3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Good luck :)

2. No. Crimping Tool is used to terminate a cable. A Punch Down Tool is used to terminate a keystone jack/wall plate or patch panels.
   
   
3. If you use an unmanaged switch (which you probably should), yes it's pretty much plug and play.
   
   
4. All the ethernet runs need to plug into the switch, where it is, is up to you. What you've described would work fine. But why not move the modem too while you're at it?! What's stopping you from running the coax from the cable company to said office?! I'm suggesting that you keep all equipment in one place.
   
   
5. That's up to you. This has a hole in the ceiling, wires to the patch panel, then to the switch, then to the router. Or you can get a couple of wall plates. If it's a closet, I'd go with the patch panel.
   
   
6. Any physical obstruction will impair the wifi. Hence I suggest making a couple of runs to the ceiling, one up one downstairs and installing APs. You wifi will never be the same.
   
   
7. Your router does not have enough ports for the runs you're making. Yes, you'll definitely need a switch.

For rust prevention - I use Boeshield T-9 on all my iron tops (actually, on anything that rusts) - it is a good deal easier to put on, lasts longer than wax and is very effective.

I do use paste wax over the top of the T-9 to make it more slippery.

First of all, never buy a matching set of knives. Instead, buy a generic knife storage block, and fill it out as you need it. I have this one from Amazon and like it a lot.

For chef's knives, I'm really happy with the Kiwi knives I got from the Wok Shop. They're certainly no Henkels or Wusthof, but they're absolutely fantastic for the price. They see daily use in my kitchen, right alongside my $100 Global santoku. Get a real whetstone (like this) and learn how to use it, and you can get a really nice edge on them too.

The advantage of using Ubiquiti stuff is the amount of info available: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=ubiquiti+nanostation+ptp

PtP means Point-to-point, which is the kind of link you want to do. You will need some outdoor ethernet cable and a crimp tool + connectors. A simple cable tester would be useful too to make sure the cable is OK.

Also, Ubiquiti uses passive PoE. Plug your injector correctly or it will fry your computer's network card!

Don't hesitate to contact me if you have any more questions!

I still asked for a picture of a set up. what size tank do you have? Ideally you will have 29 gallon tall tank. They are nocturnal so they don't need UVB light. They get their D3 from the repashy food instead. A UVB 2.0 flourescent light can be used for UVB and UVA and it will just make it a little more healthy. you want a basking corner of the tank at 85 F. you want to use a normal light bulb at 40-65 watt to get that temperature. just buy 2 of these they can be bought at home depot, or from amazon. in one of them put the 40-65 watt white light bulb. and another for your fluorescent light.

this website has some good suggestions too, just scroll down to the lighting section.
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/pic/article.cfm?aid=2365

If your basement is colder than 70 F you will probably want to get a red bulb to keep it warmer at night.

With this info you should be able to get your whole lighting set up for about $20

Great link. TY

Is there a definitive determination on the legality of something like a Kershaw pocket knife with "SpeedSafe"? Kershaw OSO Sweet

I'll add that I saw Kershaw knives with SpeedSafe at my local Walmart...

Don't fight over any of it. Your freedom is worth 10 snowblowers. Your happiness is worth a dozen tool sets, but, this is a kit I got my wife a few years back. I NEVER use it, so she ALWAYS has what she needs - it's a great start!

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-94-248-65-Piece-Homeowners-Tool/dp/B000UHMITE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1494875518&sr=8-3&keywords=tool+kit

I say definitely go for it and try them out. I never put a model together before getting these. If you get a pair of side cutters (this is a cheap one that will get you started), they come out great.

Boba Fett is the only one that really requires paint to look good. The Sandtrooper and Scout Trooper are pretty plain without weathering also. But other than that there's stickers along with waterslide decals for any little details. I use stickers for mine.

Here are a couple of photo shoots I did:

Darth Vader

Stormtrooper

Scout trooper

I have a good old fashioned Lansky diamond stone set. Works like a charm, and I dare say it will be around long after I'm gone. I don't make so many knives that I would ever need a faster sharpening system though, I can see how you'd need to upgrade pretty quick if you were trying to do anything quickly or in bulk.
 
Amazon

Definitely check out r/AutoDetailing,

But some quick tips, make sure you get a dual action orbital polisher, not a normal rotary polisher. It's pretty easy to mess up your paint with a normal one if you're not well practiced, but DA polishers are pretty easy to use as long as you pay attention to what you're doing. There's also random orbit polishers, but those don't generally provide enough power to do any serious paint correction...

​

Examples:

Rotary polisher (hard to use): https://www.amazon.com/POLISHFLEX-Compact-Variable-Rotary-Polisher/dp/B004XAN4M4/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=rotary+polisher&qid=1551213120&s=gateway&sr=8-12

​

Random orbit polisher (no power):

https://www.amazon.com/DECKER-WP900-6-Inch-Random-Polisher/dp/B000077CPT/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=rotary+polisher&qid=1551213120&s=gateway&sr=8-10

​

Dual Action polisher (what you probably want...):

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=rotary+polisher&qid=1551213120&s=gateway&sr=8-7

Thanks for asking the question because I was wondering about decent chisels on a budget. I'll probably pick up https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004TK0IG8/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I1JK4X4CB9PRRD&colid=XSR4TUQ1ES94&psc=1 based on the recommendations. Hope the BF loves his gift whatever you get!

Cat 6 is perfectly fine, as it can support up to 10Gb, so its pretty future proofed as 1Gb is still the standard. We won't see 10Gb becoming the norm for a while.

As far as cable, I usually get it from Monoprice, or sometimes from amazon. I just bought a 1000ft spool of Cat6 for like $65

If you are putting drops in each room, its probably best to put in wall plates, and punch down the cable to a jack. You'll need a Punchdown Tool for this.

I'd highly recommend running all the cables to a patch panel. Ideally have them run to the same location as your modem and other networking equipment. You'd use the same punch down tool here as well.

If you need to terminate any cables to a normal Ethernet connector, it isn't difficult, but it is a bit tedious. The first one you do will take you a bit to do, but once you get the hang of it, each one will become a little quicker. you can watch a youtube video on how to do it.
You'll need a Crimping tool to crimp the ends on.

You get what you pay for. I wouldn't touch a $40 cable tester, much less a tool kit.
You can spend money wisely, like buying a Klein 10-in-1 or 11-in-1 for PSTN/POTS outside work.
For precision drivers, Wiha is what you want- this is a nice portable set which works on the bench as well.
For crimpers I currently use an Ideal Telemaster but will be switching to an Amp. For cable testing I use a Fluke Cable IQ or LinkRunner.
Your tools need to be better quality that the amateurs that banged on it before you. You definitely don't want crappy tools to be holding you back.
If you are worried about theft, sign the tools out to individual techs and make them responsible for them. Part of the sign-out process should be an authorization to withhold the replacement cost from their paycheck if they lose anything.

Are you sure this is where it is bad/what is causing the problem. It is hard to tell from the picture exactly, so here is some general info.

The outer black layer is pretty much just for protection/shielding and could be replaced with electrical tape in a pinch (which it sounds like you have tried).

Inside you have 8 wires in 4 color pairs (a solid and a stripe). One or more of those wires may be damaged/disconnected.

I would look at them closely, peal back the black outer coating more if needed, and see if you can find any breaks in the 8 smaller wires. If you find one and absolutely don't want to buy anything to fix it right or run another cable, you may be able to strip off the outer coating on the individual wire to expose the copper wire inside.

Do that on both sides of the break, twist it together, cover with electrical tape, then try it out. If it works, cover the whole thing back up with electrical tape.

If you don't see any obvious breaks or issues, check into other issues (like is it maybe the router, the XBox, the cable RJ-45 plugs (the ends), etc).

Anyway, good luck. If you really want to fix it right, you could get a not that great, but serviceable crimper set for under $15:

http://smile.amazon.com/Wild-us-Tester-Crimper-Connector-Network/dp/B008UY5WL0/

Cut the cable on either side fo the tear, use that to put an RJ45 jack on each end of the break, then use a coupler like this to join them back:

http://smile.amazon.com/Britta-Products-271710-Coupler-Straight/dp/B000BSLW8U/

I know that isn't what you want to do, but it may be the best way if that is the true cause/location of your problem.

Oh! It has to be Neko Case who is a indie-folk artist. She has such a beautiful voice and writes about interesting shit like her great uncle going crazy and being eaten by wolves and the capacity tornadoes have for love.

This may seem like a stretch but I pick it because Neko herself loves doing DIY projects and even renovated a whole barn by herself in Vancouver. I also pick this because there isn't that many things of her's on amazon. :/

Music is life!

This is a selection of what I keep in my tech go-bag. You'll build your kit as you learn and build experience, or realize you could have helped a customer out of a jam quicker if you had that tool with you.

• cheap flashlights you wont feel bad about leaving in a ceiling or inside a rack: https://www.amazon.com/Magnetic-Lights-Super-Bright-White/dp/B00I45JKTA/
  
  
• torx screwdriver for lots of little devices. I have a similar set and it's pretty decent: https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Magnetic-Precision-Screwdriver-Electronics/dp/B015F734P0/
  
  
• power supply tester
  
  
• rechargable canned air
  
  
• zip ties
  
  
• velcro: https://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice-Cable-Fastening-Tape-Yards/dp/B00FT2WHO6/
  
  
• leatherman/gerber multi-tool (needlenose) convenient when you need to do something quick and you don't have your bag with you.
  
  
• Set of pliers/wire cutters (leave the chanel locks at home): https://www.amazon.com/Tools-VISE-GRIP-4-Piece-Traditional-2078707/dp/B000CFMCTK/
  
  
• sharpies
  
  
• electrical tape: the good kind not the cheapo stuff
  
  
• multi-screwdriver: https://www.amazon.com/Lenox-Tools-23932-Multi-Tool-Driver/dp/B0013NX2DA/
  
  
• cordless electric screwdriver if you have lots of screwing to do.
  
  
• razor knife: https://www.amazon.com/Gerber-Lite-Pocket-Knife-31-000345/dp/B002RILCLY/
  
  
• cable tester/tone generator: https://www.amazon.com/ELEGIANT-Multifunction-Tracker-Measuring-Instrument/dp/B01HCQSHNG/
  
  
• analog phone for testing phone lines: https://www.amazon.com/Saytay-Telephone-Lineman-Tester-Connectors/dp/B01ABT7458/
  
  
• punch down tool: https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Punch-Krone-Blade-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/
  
  
• cable crimper: https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-RJ-45-RJ-12-RJ-11-TC-CT68/dp/B0000AZK4G/
  
  Various extra parts I've accumulated over the years like screws, ATX Molex Power to SATA Power Adapters, ATX Molex Y splitters, SATA cables etc..
  
  Good luck and some tools overlap like multi tools and pliers so if budget is low, go with the tool that covers the most jobs.
  
  Edit: I noticed your bag is kind of expensive compared to something like a Dewalt tool bag. I use a plain Dewalt bag which is not as cool as the one in the link, but it's just as tough. This might be a good and less expensive consideration for you if you don't require the look of a briefcase for your tool bag.
  
  Edit 2: You may want to mark your tools with a wrap of some crazy bright color electrical tape to be able to recognize them when they walk away.
  
  
  

This is the crimping tool I'm using. It seems ok, and had good reviews on Amazon. I will say that I'm having a hard time with the "pre-crimp," in that if I go all the way to 3 clicks, it's too far, so I'm having to stop at 2 clicks. Not sure that's causing an issue, though. I'm using 18 ga wire.

Based on some of the other comments, I'm pretty sure I was carrying the sleeving up too far, and that was making it hard to get the pin in the hole. I've back the sleeving up/trimmed some of it down, and it's going a little better.

Thanks for the response!

This guy is in all of my bags. I also carry a North Face Surge 2, it's pretty solid, has a lot of pockets, the laptop pouch is lined so my device never gets scratched up. I have some velcro cable ties that have been very useful at times, but I also go into a lot of rack rooms still.

I agree with the comfy shoes, and I also carry some hand sani and wipes.

The first sharpener I got was a Natural Stones Lansky system which was fine. It doesn't require much skill and it got my knives sharp enough to shave hairs off. If you opt for a Lanksy though, I would recommend the Diamond Stones because they cut faster and are easier to clean.

When I started freehand sharpening, I got a Smith's Tri-hone which worked nicely. It was cheap and I was bad at freehanding, but with a good bit of practice, trial and error, and some instructional videos I was able to produce hair shaving edges consistently. And eventually, I decided I favored freehand sharpening over fixed angle sharpeners.

However, I gave away my Lansky and Smith's Tri-hone. Right now, I use DMT continuous sharpening stones. They cut very fast and I like them a lot. I'm a broke college student, so all I have is the Coarse, Fine, and Extra Fine stones which I can consistently get a toothy edge that will still shave hairs.

I'd say I'm still pretty bad at freehand sharpening. I don't always hold consistent angles and sometimes I fuck up a knife pretty bad, but I usually know what I did wrong and try to improve the next time I sharpen a knife. So whatever you get, meter your expectations. The first few knives you sharpen probably won't come out the best, but with enough practice, and especially patience, at the very least you'll get your knife sharp again.

don't worry dude, the other 99'11" of this line is still good, no need to rip it out

Something like this https://www.amazon.com/UbiGear-Crimper-Connector-Network-Crimper315/dp/B008UY5WL0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1518894673&sr=8-3&keywords=ethernet+kit&dpID=51DjZejC9oL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch should have everything you need for under $15 - will sort you out perfectly.

It took me about 20 minutes to learn to use the tools, and now whenever I need a short cable I can just make one. Boot split and frayed? Who cares, I'll just replace that bad boy, no throwing out the entire run for me. Drilling through a wall to feed a cable outdoors, how will the plug fit? No problem. So convenient as a future-proof ability to have under your belt.

Unsurprisingly, excellent instructions for dummies like me are incredibly prolific on the internet, including lots of great YT videos

As others have mentioned the interference from multiple unshielded cables right next to each other will be slowing your entire network down right now (loads of dropped packets and failed attempts), so I agree this is more /r/techsupportgore than MacGyver. Fix this right and everything will be significantly less laggy, plus you only gotta buy cheap tools once and then you're set to be able to make incredibly low price Ethernet lines wherever you live for the rest of your life

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Happy happy cake day And thank you!

Probably not what you want to hear, but you'll probably need to get a new stickbox (desoldering the old one, soldering a new one). It's a straight forward process and hard to mess up, but the cost can be a big factor if you don't already own the equipment.
Video for reference.

Other option would be to just buy another controller off Ebay, open that controller and swap the guts with your old controller.

• Here is a [mini tool kit I use to open the controller] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009MKGRQA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) that I originally bought to open up my Macbook.
  
• the Triwing Screws on the Gamecube controllers suck, are probably rusted, and strip easily. Replace them with some new Phillips Screws.
  
• Here is a good video by Zenith about opening your controller.
  
  You can find a bunch of results for analog stick boxes on Ebay.
  
  Best of luck!

I have multiple sets of chisels but I find I go back to my Stanley 750 (the modern ones) often. You can get a set of 4 for under 100 on amazon. Quality stuff. I use the Paul Sellers technique to chop mortises. I isn't as quick as some but it sure feels good once completed. Like reliving an ancient technique.

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-16-791-Sweetheart-Socket-Chisel/dp/B004TK0IG8

Nah, that looks crazy haha

I use one of these. Super cheap, super effective.

1. Buy a 24 pack of wooden hangers and limit the clothes that I hang up in my closet to those 24 pieces. (Not including pants/logo t-shirts/camis, ect). I currently have about 48 plastic hangers from target (replacement for my mismatched hangers). This will allow me to focus on buying quality pieces that are "worthy" of the wood hangers and to eliminate the clothes that no longer bring me joy.
   
   
2. Buy more jewelry! I almost never wear jewelry because I can't justify spending $25-50 for a necklace with a student budget. I wear a lot of neutral colors and feel like I need a few statement pieces.
   
   
3. Buy a hardware cabinet (something like this) to store my jewlery in. I also want to find cute buttons to store matching stud earrings with so I never lose one.
   
   
4. Keep track of my clothing purchases over the next year.

Thank you for your reply!

I currently have those 2 whetstones:

• 1000/6000 (https://www.amazon.ca/King-Japanese-Combination-Sharpening-KW-65/dp/B00M8P96QE/)
  
• 400/100 (https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0055B2RGO/)
  
  As a side note, I thought there would be more difference performance wise between the whustof and the henckles international, since they have such a significant price difference. I know they use the same steel but I thought perhaps a thinner blade?! Anyway, if the only performance improvement is the handle, that is definitely not worth the upgrade.

You don't need to, but I want to. These are the shelves I'm getting. https://www.amazon.com/Akro-Mils-10124-Plastic-Hardware-6-5-Inch/dp/B003TV3NL0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1479924940&sr=8-4&keywords=akro+mills

Going to grab six of them at first once the color sort is complete. It's a lot easier to sort by type when the color is already done. When I say type I don't mean one drawer for each specific brick, more like one for slopes, one for bricks, one for modified bricks. All color sorted and ready to go.

Betafpv sells these 4-blades, but they are a bit heavier than regular. They also have taller hub which protrudes further out of the duct, increasing the possibility of hitting something and damaging the motor.

So I ended up drilling regular whoop props with a small hand drill and a 1mm bit. It is easy to do and the results are great – no unbalance or anything, prop sits snug on the shaft. I recommend doing the same. This is the drill I used.

I would ask a buddy if he has a torque wrench or screw driver in lb/in. If not, here's one I'm probably going to buy. It's best to eliminate as much as you can with the hardware. If everything is to spec, you've at least eliminated your rig. There could be a little bit of cant in your reticle. I'd also read this article to make sure you've eliminated cant in your reticle to the best of your abilities.

Howto post pics to reddit can be found here.

unfortunately i only have time to make video at night.

Clamp light like this one ?

For the light bulb, how many wattage do i need for a small room (10 feet x 9 feet)?

I think i can buy one cheap diffuser, but i don't know the differences between the one that looks like umbrella, or softbox

If i can only buy one, which 1 is better?

Thanks

https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Firearms-Accurizing-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0012AXR4S

There's the analog version from Amazon. I have one, I like it, it seems to work well. I don't have anything to test it against, so I don't know if the torque it puts out is accurate, or if it's the best of the best, but it's good enough for me.

HEY THANKS! When I was new to the game I didn't know how to tell what props go on which motor, and when i threw them into my bag I wanted to be able to know what i'm pulling out. SO I wrote the motor numbers under the props (see this pic for motor numbers. I no longer do this, I started flying with some guys who showed me a "trick", if you will. With the kwad facing forward from you, putting on props the pitch will always face UP when parallel front and back... errr wow that's hard to explain in words. If you don't know what i'm talking about let me know I can post a pic, lol.

As far as what's in my "tool stand", lol. I have Hex Drivers, X-Acto knife, multibit screw driver, flashlight, sharpie, wire snips, and small pair of plyers. tagging /u/medium2slow.

154cm is pretty good steel, should hold an edge for a while. It's not a supersteel, but pretty close..

Take a look at Lansky's sharpening system. It's pretty inexpensive, but I've used mine for years without any problems. With 154cm you might want to go with the diamond stones. You'll have a complete sharpening kit for around $75

• Screwdrivers
  
  
• Needle nose pliers
  
  
• Sockets
  
  
• Electric Drill
  
  
• Putty knife and spackle
  
  
• Level
  
  
• Hammer
  
  
• Work gloves
  
  
• Stud finder
  
  
• Tape Measure
  
  
• A good, small flashlight--keep one in the car and one in the home
  
  
• A toolbox to store it all
  
  
  Specifically for my truck I have:
  
  a flexing spark plug socket like this one and spark plug pullers
  
  An OBD II Scanner
  
  Auto jack(s)
  
  An oil pan and an oil filter wrench or other tool that makes the filter easier to remove
  
  And, of course, jumper cables, a poncho or two, some spare water bottles and all that good stuff that stays in the truck too.
  
  
  Edit: Honestly, this is a great place to start--Stanley 65-Piece Homeowner's Tool Kit
  
  

This has been my carry knife for 6 months now. It was my first spring assisted knife and I really like it..

http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-1830-Stainless-Steel-Handle-SpeedSafe/dp/B00172A3DE/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1420479079&sr=1-1&keywords=Kershaw+1830+OSO+Sweet+Knife+with+Stainless-Steel+Blade+and+Nylon+Handle+with+SpeedSafe

I have one of these. A little bigger, but still able to carry it easy. Very strong and durable knife.

http://www.coldsteel.com/Product/VOYAGER.20_SERIES/VOYAGER_SERIES.aspx

If you want a sports massager, the cheapest best option is probably a Black & Decker car buffer. https://www.amazon.com/DECKER-WP900-6-Inch-Random-Polisher/dp/B000077CPT/ They work just as well as the massagers and are super cheap.

I did this for a while and honestly it sucked. It's way too fiddly and takes up too much space. Buy yourself one of these part bins and a box of the small baggies. The bags lay on their side and fit perfectly. I point the opening left and right alternating for each resistor group (i use number and decade order). I have over a thousand resistors in one drawer. Same thing with ceramic caps, electrolytics, and they're very easy to thumb through and grab one. If you want to get fancy you can put a piece of card stock between each group.

You now have all the other drawers to sort things and it only takes up a little bit of wall space.

Don't listen to the guys saying you need to buy truck brands like Snap-on or MAC, they are overpriced and while they are very good quality the biggest reason mechanics use them is because they are frequently visited by the tool trucks meaning exchanging broken tools is easy. For the home mechanic they are extreme overkill.

Craftsman is OKAY, despite the detractor whining they are chinese-made (and lets be honest, unless you willing to pony up most tools you will buy will be Chinese anyways). I put them at the same level as Harbor Freight (at least the Harbor Freight Pro line, it will say on the label) mostly because they both have the same return policy on hand tools, if it breaks take it to the store and get it replaced.

I would put the box store brands (Husky for Home Depot and Kobalt for Lowes) in the same category as Craftsman and Harbor Freight but don't because while they have the same life time warranty on paper as HF and Sears (at least until it goes bankrupt like people have been predicting for a decade) I have heard stories of them making it either very difficult or impossible to return and exchange broken tools.

Either way unless you need high precision tools like torque wrenches, tractor wrenches, or high strength impacts you really can't go wrong with anything above discount bin or dollar store tool sets. The important thing is having the proper tool for the job, no using 3/8 ratchets to break rusted lug nuts business. I will also stress don't buy gimmick tools like spline sockets or ratcheting wrenches.

If what you are really looking for it tools off the beaten path I would recommend SK, Williams, Bahco, Craftsman Professional, and Proto for hand tools. The first 3 are OEMs for the truck brands and can usually be bought cheaper then them except for being a little harder to find, the Craftsman Professional line is still made in the US (with the price tag to match), and Proto is the pro line for Stanley.

Wera, Wiha, Kline, Knipex are all good brands for screwdrivers and pliers. I wouldn't know to much about them except for the decade old Kline crimper I have that's still chugging along after all the abuse I've heaped on it, and electricians swear by them. Knipex also makes one of the greatest tools known to man, probably the only gimmick tool worth it's salt.

This thread can give you a good starting point if you would like the truck brand quality without the truck brand price.

You also can't go wrong browsing craigslist for people who are upsizing/upgrading/retiring/downsizing and looking to dump their old stuff.

I believe its a credit card size function tool that you store in your wallet. I don't know OP's brand but this one is popular but if you're looking more at what OP has then this one looks pretty similar. I haven't tried either so I would look at the reviews before deciding to buy.

Get a manual precision/ jeweler's drill with a few bit sizes, such as this one: In-tool-home Precision Pin Vise Model Hand Drill Set with Twist Drill Bits Set of 11 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010BV7190/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Sya3AbWQQ6DFA

All you'll need to do is find a good-sized bit, attach it to the drill, place it against the desired spot and spin while holding in place with your pointer finger. Hope that helps!

I'd suggest a Knipex Pliers Wrench (expensive, but very nice to use for a lot of projects) and some spring punches and a head lamp to keep both hands free to use all your other tools.

I got back in town from a Magic: The Gathering tournament today. I got eighth place, which is pretty good. I stopped at a Sonic on the way, but that was the only thing I ate all day. Also, my allergies have been bothering me quite a bit lately, but I took some medicine, and it's starting to kick in. I've been sleep deprived the past two days, so I'm going to go to bed soon. This is the thing that I want. It was the only thing on my wishlist under three dollars. I hope that you have a happy day. Be happy tomorrow too, since today is almost over.

This collapsible shot glass is really cool and only $2.28

http://amzn.com/B0042B36Q8

Also I keep this thing in my wallet at ALL times, and it comes in handy

http://amzn.com/B000Q06LI4

HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!

Surprise me! :p

You can always go the traditional whetstone route and learn to freehand sharpen. As long as you're patient and diligent the process is very relaxing and rewarding. I'll throw some links to some good stones in here for ya:
Whetstone Cutlery | Beginner Stone for Sharpening
Sharp Pebble | Beginner Stone for Finishing

I also recommend you check out Burrfection on youtube for a good overview of beginner knife sharpening using whetstones. You'll save money, albeit use more time learning a new skill with this path but it's my preferred method of sharpening on the cheap currently.

For cheap assisted knives, Kershaw is the way to go. You can get an OSO sweet under $20, or a cryo under $25, both of which are popular around here in their price range. If you have a little more to spend, the Leek is a great choice.

Start with a basic tool kit: screwdriver set, hex wrenches, pliers, box cutter, level, hammer, ect.

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-94-248-65-Piece-Homeowners-Tool/dp/B000UHMITE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495687960&sr=8-3&keywords=Tool+kit

Something like this.

Then i definitely recommend socket wrenches.

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWMT73804-Drive-Socket-Piece/dp/B00WLVV2YE/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1495688089&sr=8-9&keywords=socket+wrench

Next I'd recommend an impact driver. There are going to be times where your drill won't cut it.

https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-BDCI20C-Lithium-Impact/dp/B00JJ3QY9A/ref=sr_1_4?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1495688152&sr=1-4&keywords=impact+driver

I purchased a circular saw recently and have gotten a good amount of use out of it. If you don't plan on doing any woodwork then pass on this.

https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-BDECS300C-Circular-Laser/dp/B01LX8KOAD/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1495688185&sr=1-6&keywords=circular+saw

Probably outside of your price range if you're sticking to $300 but a pressure washer is amazing. I use mine all the time.

Another extra item would be an air compressor. You can use it for tons of stuff such as nail guns.

And then also you'll need all your yard work tools. Loppers, shovels, rakes, trimmers, ect.

Oh man.... All the stuff to maintain your home is so expensive. But I'd start here.

I wouldn't expect a lot for the price. 10000K is pretty high, you probably want more of a 5-6k range for freshwater plants. I got a similar cheap LED bar and it was barely enough to even illuminate a tank visually, let alone keep plants alive.

High end LED bars get expensive. If you want cheap lighting for a planted tank, just get fixtures like this and clamp or hang them above the tank, with daylight compact flourescent or LED bulbs (Home Depot or Lowes has a good selection.)

you could use this to relax your muscles better than any commercial massager can! It is awesome (second link like to videos)


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000077CPT?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00

http://www.allthingsgym.com/car-polisher-next-level-self-myofascial-release/

1. Casio G-Shock GA-100-1A1ER
   
2. LUX · PRO LP290C COMPACT Pocket Handheld Flashlight, Blue
   
3. SanDisk Cruzer
   
4. Yoshida Kaban Porter Free Style Card Holder
   
5. Kershaw 1830 OSO Sweet Knife with Stainless-Steel Blade and Nylon Handle with SpeedSafe
   
6. Black Diamond Light D Carabiner
   
7. Tungsten Carbide Ring

All the cat5 cables ive seen have 4 pairs; blue, brown, green and orange/red and a striped counterpart. In the image posted it looks like the colors are still there, they just went with different patterns and shades.

So im seeing the orange one come out of the wall, and it LOOKS like its going into the third block from the left, but i notice its actually connected to the second from the left, so its matched with the solid orange. The fourth from the left appears to be the solid greens, as i can also see the third block contains the striped greens (as well as some of the leftover from the wall cable). And of course the far right block houses the orange striped wires. So it looks like someone was bridging the orange and green pairs, but the green striped line is broken or cut on purpose.

So like i said before if it was coming from the phone line we would only need 2 to get data to the modem, but as this is coming from a router, itll need most, if not all, of the 8 wires connected. There is a guide to wiring all this up and it goes by color of the wires, but thats just a guide and may not always be the case in how it was actually wired up.

This is how a standard ethernet cable is hooked up

Also cat 5e is just a cat5 cable that can handle more data and is better shielded so thats a non issue.

So long story short, its looks like all of them need to be hooked back up. All the suggestion in my first post should still be valid and if i were doing it i would probably run a whole new cat5 cable from the router to the pc. Failing being able to do that, i would trim up the cables in your pic, crimp new heads on following the diagram color chart, and patch them together with a female-to-female rj45 patch socket. Failing ability to do that, i would solder each wire to the other and shrink tube the joint. And lastly i would resort to twisting them together with electrical tape, or using a wire block like in your pic to join them and throw the whole thing in an enclosure like a plastic bag or something lol. Basically anything to get those wires touching and not falling apart will net some degree of success.

You'll need:

Edge trimmers

Cat5 head crimper

F2F rj45 coupler

Cat5 heads

Something similar to this 8 wire bus bar will work, but smaller would be better

And thats about it, depending on how you decide to go about the repair. Also no problem at all. shoot me another message if anything else pops up and ill help however i can.

Had that happen to me as well. Trickier to fix than the circle pad, but still doable. Might I recommend:

• Replacement triggers for, depending on your console, the 3DS or 3DSXL (don't order the wrong one like I did)
  
• Precision Screwdriver Kit
  
• Tutorials

Try searching for "Torx Tamper Resistant" or "Torx TR8" instead of "Torx Security", you might find better results.

I got this set of Amazon: TEKTON 2830
It's cheap and you get bits for pretty much any popular electronic device.

Just did this myself.

A couple tips.

Here's the clear shell: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B075JJ2KH5

Get this screwdriver kit: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009MKGRQA

Precision tweezers also help a lot.

You'll need 3 bits out of that kid and the little plastic tool that comes with it.

• The screws are very soft and very easy to strip so tighten only until you feel it requiring a little force, then stop.
  
  
• Again, barely tighten anything because if it's even slightly too tight, once you get it all back together the buttons will either be mushy (no click feeling) or won't press at all. The shoulder button screw is what gave me that issue. Once you get it all back together, just clip the back shell on but don't screw it. Slide the Joycon back on the Switch and hold it like your would normally play - even pushing it into the switch a little. Make sure the shoulders still make that clicky feeling.
  
  
• Remember which screw goes into which hole. It matters.
  
  
• When removing or replacing the battery, don't use any metal tweezers. Just use your fingers gently and that plastic tool above to plug it back in. You don't want a short.
  
  
• This is the most important thing I can say: exercise caution when removing and reinstalling the shoulder button (the large one). The momentary switch/button (the actual button) under it is very fragile. I used a little force to get the shoulder button back on and it barely pushed into the momentary switch under and basically sheared the momentary switch and housing off. I had to get a replacement.
  
  
• When it comes to warranty worries, there are no stickers or anything and this is easily reversible.
  
  
  That's it!

if you're talking about the rubber on the joystick, you find find replacement joysticks on amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Gamecube-Replacement-Analog-Yellow-Replaces-Controller/dp/B004H7P0B6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421534140&sr=8-1&keywords=gamecube+joystick However, in order to open the controller, you need a tri-wing screwdriver: http://www.amazon.com/Tri-wing-Screwdriver-Nintendo-Gamecube-Gameboy/dp/B000S6AG9G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421534165&sr=8-1&keywords=triwing+screwdriver Although, I would recommend not getting if from this seller (Just wanted to show the type of screwdriver needed). While it is cheap, a lot of people have waited 6+ weeks for it and nothing from the seller (me included). I would recommend buying this handy tool kit: http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2830-Everybit-Electronics-Precision/dp/B009MKGRQA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1421534165&sr=8-2&keywords=triwing+screwdriver replacing the joystick isn't that hard, everything fits into place

Amazon and
Gerber

I would be interested to know your thoughts. Ive had it on 4 trips so far and its worked great.

edit: Seems the reviews are tough on the pliers holding up with use. I use them to pull fishhooks which is pretty light work

Thanks for starting this, it has come at a good time for me. I will be expanding my keychain carry soon and hadn't come across a couple of those. Here are a few more to add to the list:



https://sites.google.com/site/jrpcustomknives/tools


The ruler on this is nice:

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=61101&cat=1,43456


Fairly popular, but worth mentioning here:

http://www.amazon.com/Swiss-Tech-UKCSB-1-Utili-Key-MultiTool/dp/B0001EFSTI


I originally saw this one on ThinkGeek:

http://www.amazon.com/True-Utility-TU47-Multifunction-Stainless/dp/B003F527NU

Cheap and very portable:

http://www.amazon.com/SE-Function-Credit-Survival-Pocket/dp/B000Q06LI4

Of course, there are the various pry-bars over at CountyComm:

http://countycomm.com/barfamily.html

And lastly, some unique tools:

http://www.americankami.com/swag.html

Not strictly a 'pocket tool', but for organizing them.

http://www.amazon.com/True-Utility-TU45-Stainless-Organizer/dp/B003A5E5IK/ref=pd_sim_misc_5/177-6248037-1918428

This can be achieved using snap rings like those from TEC Accessories. I bought some at the same time I purchased my P7 clip. Only 40 cents each + keyring of your choice, however, I'm not sure where to find the horseshoe in the previous example, or how to DIY.

http://www.tecaccessories.com/products/category.php?CA=7

**EDIT: formatting and keyring stuff~

I'm in need of some help, I am trying to find a place to buy key rings in various shapes other than the typical circle. What I would prefer is a heart/D shaped ring and my google-fu is too weak to find anything.

This might be excessive, but I wanted to be thorough so you can see what all is out there. I am having trouble thinking of anything that the following tools can't do, in terms of AR building and maintenance. This is basically my setup at home, though some.of the brands and whatnot are different.

I am operating under the assumption that you already have some basic hand tools in addition to the torque wrench.

The only things you absolutely need are roll pin punches and an armorer's wrench and some basic hand tools like Allen wrenches, screwdrivers, needlenose pliers and so on. The rest just expedite the process and help solve weird issues that may come up.


Wheeler Engineering Roll Pin Starter Punch Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B3NWBVI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QJZDAb1ZFBQ80

Wheeler Roll Pin Punch Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EE6GHVW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4JZDAbV5YGA8M

Wheeler Hammer and Punch Set In Plastic Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SY07HU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FNZDAb1Y74EF0

Geissele Automatics 10-169 AR15/M4 Reaction Rod https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EY6WFAI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hOZDAbD3JHBAE

Aeroshell 33ms / MIL-G-21164D / MIL-SPEC Barrel Nut Thread Grease + 1/2oz can https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BJ3HE0K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4OZDAbQGRYJJ2

TEKTON Long Arm Ball End Hex Key Wrench Set, Inch/Metric, 26-Piece | 25282 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I5THF4W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PPZDAbQ05H680

TEKTON Long Arm Star Key Wrench Set, T10-T50, 9-Piece | 25291 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I5THF9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cQZDAbRX59VNW

IRWIN Tools Multi-Purpose Bench Vise, 5-Inch (4935505) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009TOCZEC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1QZDAbT8R47J0

Yost UP-360 Universal 6 Inch Prism Style Jaw Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EVQH42U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aRZDAbRHAV73E

Real Avid Gun Tool Pro - for Modern Sporting Rifles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IMHX5KA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bUZDAbEB87JFB

Wheeler Firearms Accurizing Torque Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012AXR4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xWZDAb1SRYD6D

Wheeler Professional Gunsmithing Screwdriver Set (43-Piece) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HTN4EWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HXZDAbQX5BEWF

TacWater USA AR15/M4/M16 Tools Multi-Purpose Tool Set (W) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079H5WWZ3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GYZDAbRGY3CNH

Takedown Pivot PIN Tool set 223 556 6.8 SPC 300 AAC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017OUSJFQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_V.ZDAbSHZPEG5

Magpul Bev Block https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1015877615/magpul-bev-block-ar-15-action-block

Here is a good link that really explains everything well.

http://www.ecigclick.co.uk/ultimate-rda-guide-for-beginners/

Some pointers, get a building kit, they are life savers, I would however recommend a different pair of wire cutters, this is the pair I use, and they are phenominal:

http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Stand-off-Construction-21-Degree/dp/B017ODDPNO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463530354&sr=8-1&keywords=flush+cutter

I use Koh Gen Do cotton, they spelled it wrong, but it's my go to. I just like it. Hope this helps

These are the things I bought. You could get by without some of the wire cutting tools. The crimper is kinda necessary, and I'd definitely buy the molex hand tool for pushing the wire into the SATA connector. Much easier than using a screwdriver.

16 AWG Guage Wire

Wire Stripper (you can get by without this)

Flush Cutter (probably not necessary but nice to have)

Crimping Tool

SATA Power Connector

SATA Passthrough Cap

SATA Terminal/End-of-Line Cap

Molex Hand Tool <-- buy the real thing, mimics on Amazon aren't as good

ATX Header Pins (these are 18 AWG which are a little small for 16 AWG gauge wire)

ATX Header Housing

Oh PLEASE don't use that type of sharpener on any sort of quality knife. You're just going to get a jagged edge and a tone of steel removed each time. Get even a cheap whetstone and you will be much happier with a knife that lasts much longer :)

You might try a lansky knife sharpening system. I have been sharpening my knives for years with the same (relatively) inexpensive set. Or a slightly more expensive diamond set. You can reprofile a knife with these, so, for just regular sharpening make sure you use only the finer stones.

...For a axe / hatchet you do want a sharpening puck. And if you carry an axe or hatchet -- do yourself a favor and sharpen it regularly.

And get yourself a strop, too.

People who are a lot more technical about it use water stones, and more expensive knife sharpening rigs. But for me, the lansky is totally sufficient (and I do appreciate a honed blade)

edit: grammar

Hey, I'm assuming he's just starting so, do not get him a combo set. That's foolish, he doesn't need an impact driver at all. Search for .home repair' and you'll find a ton. Some stuff to get you started:

 

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-94-248-65-Piece-Homeowners-Tool/dp/B000UHMITE/ref=sr_1_4?m=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&s=warehouse-deals&ie=UTF8&qid=1480266147&sr=1-4

 

https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-LDX120PK-20-Volt-Lithium-Ion/dp/B00C625KVE/ref=sr_1_15?m=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&s=warehouse-deals&ie=UTF8&qid=1480266147&sr=1-15

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/1621452018/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me=

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/1118099400/ref=tmm_pap_new_olp_sr?ie=UTF8&condition=new&qid=&sr=

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EUH4TG/ref=s9_acsd_al_bw_c_multiimp_4?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-5&pf_rd_r=SN6M6HFB4M7DNW76GTG1&pf_rd_r=SN6M6HFB4M7DNW76GTG1&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=de121dcf-3645-4f43-a816-cf12556f7ae3&pf_rd_p=de121dcf-3645-4f43-a816-cf12556f7ae3&pf_rd_i=15469024011

 

sorry i don't have time to format but, good luck!

I just use one these for all my tanks. For a 10 gallon, put a 13w CFL bulb in it and call it good. Make sure you get one that is "daylight," around 6500k. I get them at Bed Bath and Beyond.



Works like a charm

Absolutely! Thanks so much for the help.

So for the lighting, I bought two clip clights like https://www.amazon.ca/Bayco-SL-300N4-8-5-Inch-Aluminum-Reflector/dp/B007RKKEHA/ref=asc_df_B007RKKEHA/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292962912878&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7779507648941511035&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001212&hvtargid=pla-357225917488&psc=1 and wrapped white cloth over them to soften the light from them. What would you say the main issue is with the lighting? DIY of course, but is there anything I could do with what I have to improve the lighting?

Checklist:

Coupon code for Lightning Vapes: ohmsweetohm (17% off)

• 24/26 gauge kanthal (I buy from Lightning vapes) ~ price varies
  
  http://www.lightningvapes.com/collections/kanthal/products/kanthal-a1-resistance-wire?variant=993078056
  
  
• Ceramic tweezers (Also Lightning vapes) ~ $12
  
  http://www.lightningvapes.com/products/ceramic-heat-resistant-tweezers-pointed-tip?variant=740212113
  
  
• Coil jig i.e. coil master v3 (I got this for $16 from sweet-vapes)
  
  http://sweet-vapes.com/coil-master-v3.html
  
  
• Organic unbleached cotton (Amazon has koh gen do for an afforable price)
  http://www.amazon.com/Koh-Gen-Do-Organic-Cotton/dp/B00NU3H3KE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1453852567&sr=8-2&keywords=koh+gen+do
  
  
• Flush cutters ($5)
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Stand-off-Construction-21-Degree/dp/B017ODDPNO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453852717&sr=8-1&keywords=flush+cutters
  
  
  
• Scissors for cotton ($9)
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-Inch-Micro-Tip-Scissors-94817897J/dp/B00006IFNA/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1453852757&sr=8-6&keywords=fiskar+scissors
  
  
  You should buy an ohm meter if you have a regulated mod. Also, you can use the steam-engine website to calculate your ohms and your mod will be able to read it out for you. But an ohm meter is just for safety precautions.
  
  Personally, I like storing all my gear in a bin so I bought this
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-STST14027-SortMaster-Tool-Organizer/dp/B00O7R6RS6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1453852881&sr=8-2&keywords=stanley+storage+boxes
  
  You could also use needle nose pliers to help you with your leads when trying to get them in your post holes.
  
  
  PSA: Buy the protective tube with your ceramic tweezers. It will shatter your heart to see the tips break if the tweezers are dropped.
  
  You could just buy the coil master kit but I'm not a very big fan of it because you can only store what comes with the kit (no room to expand your tool selection)
  
  
  
  

I'd prefer the Tamron 90 2.8 macro because it gives you a bit more working distance. But you can shoot with that on pretty much any consumer body. I'd want to have a 50 1.8 (The standard lens) and a 90 2.8, plus a light tent, on a Rebel body for products. Depending on the size of the products two fixed lights could be fine.

The big feature I like for that sort of photography would be a fold out screen. So the 70D could be an option as well.

For what it's worth, the company I work for, a major niche ecommerce retailer, uses a 7D (Original) with the 18-135, 50 1.8, and a macro lens with primarily fixed lighting like this ( http://smile.amazon.com/Bayco-SL-300-Clamp-Aluminum-Reflector/dp/B007RKKEHA/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1418920997&sr=1-5&keywords=dish+work+light ) and a light tent.

Which stanley's are you looking at? I have these and I love them. I prefer the handle shape/size of these over the narex. Both have great reviews. I never considered the Irwin chisels because I didn't like the handle.

Yes. You definitely should make sure you mount everything with the correct torque. I recommend the Wheeler Fat Wrench for installing scopes, mounts, etc.

Not that exciting, I can guarantee you but still a sweet sweet freeby :
http://www.amazon.com/SE-MT908-Function-Credit-Survival/dp/B000Q06LI4

It is useful, although I still have no idea how to use the sun component. The saw works surprisingly well, and the can opener.

Edit: Here's the amazon link for more info. Pretty cheap there.

I bought a nice little hand drill on amazon. It’s great for these things. I use it mostly to drill out the joints in hands and arms to glue in magnets. But there are some tiny drill bits that you can use for the gun barrels.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010BV7190/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RM61CbE51FS4D

Awesome. I highly recommend investing in one of these soon ;) it will change your life.

So much time I spent on projects was spent finding things, so I get things done so much quicker now.

What projects have you done so far?

Get a Patch Panel, a Punch Down tool, a ethernet crimper, some ethernet ends (i prefer the EZ, but they are pricy), and a network tester. All that for $70 and you can terminate and troubleshoot all the cables you desire!

My personal kit is a little more expensive, but really the only thing I wouldn't trade for a cheaper tool is the tester. Crimper, Punchdown, Tester.

I really like the Kershaw OSO Sweet knife. For it's price I think it's tops. It even competes with $50-$60 knifes that I own.

I bought this one and some random bits for it (not sure what they're called, maybe pin housing?), and everything works great.

$23 isn't bad. The end result is worth it, and it's much faster than soldering for me

With SS316 wire, you can run it in power (wattage) or TC mode, whichever you prefer. With Kathal wire, only power mode. I mostly stick with power mode. TC mode is fiddly, even with a DNA mod, especially with clapton coils.

The 50mm x 60mm organic Japanese cotton pads are very popular among builders. "Puff" is one of those brands you can get on Amazon.

An RDTA is essentially an RDA sitting over a tank. Since neither has a chimney, you can get great flavor from each, depending on the particular unit.

Dual coils will produce a more intensive vape but can also be twice the work, use twice the cotton, twice the wire, twice the juice, and make your RDA twice as hot. That last one is real important to me. I only use one fused clapton in my Goon to keep it from getting too hot. Not all RDAs support single coil mode, however. You typically want to shut off the airflow on the empty side so as not to dilute the flavor.

Coils are ambidextrous, they don't care which end is negative or positive.

You'll save a lot of money buying spools of wire. A good flush cut wire cutter is essential.

Just a suggestion, [this:] (https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2830-Precision-Electronic-27-Piece/dp/B009MKGRQA/ref=sr_1_6?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1468693084&sr=8-6&keywords=tekton+tools) is a good investment. I've used it for smartphones, laptops, DSLR cameras, Xbox remotes, and more, but like others are saying, on ebay you might get lucky and find a listing with a screw driver included, or just flat out find it cheaper.

This kit comes with lots of tips, extenders, a case, and another tool which I haven't found a use for yet, all for $11. You might even be able to find it cheaper somewhere else!

A coax line would not work, because it cannot be used in place if an Ethernet line. A cable modem (which is the only device that will except a Coax, requires a CMTS (Cable Modem Termination System) in order for it to function. CMTS's are thousands of dollars. You could use an Ethernet over power, which is the power line adapter you are talking about. The only issue, an especially with old houses, the wiring is done in sections. Which is why you have circuit breakers for turning off parts of the house, without needing to turn the whole house off. In other words, you wont be successful with the Power Line Adapter, because your room is most likely in a different section of the house, than the modem. Also, appliances that use large amounts of energy, such as washers, dryers, microwaves and fridges can cause your latency to spike up into the 4000ms (You can see how Ethernet over Power didn't really catch on).

Your best option, is buying a 350 ft of CAT 5 Cable, and fishing it up to your room. This will require Crimpers and CAT 5 ender and cable tester. This will cost you about $50 dollars, and it's really easy to do. Here is a Guide



Edit: Never heard of MoCA adapter's apparently that works too

It depends on the quality. I have a couple sets from Wiha ranging from $15-50, but you certainly don't need to buy ones that nice. I bought a couple of these sets to give to people last year. I kept one for myself and it is percectly fine.

Screwdriver and Nut Driver 11-in-1 Multi Tool, Industrial Strength Bits, Cushion Grip Handle Klein Tools 32500 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_S.9XBbS1RP5HN

At half the price, they are most definitely worth it!

I keep one of these in my kit, my friend has a picquic and it's nice however I find if I'm working on something that requires me to switch bits back and forth the Klein is better.
Klein Tools 32500 11-in-1 Screwdriver/Nut Driver with Cushion Grip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_TSy5wbW1531PA

I use Stanley Sweethearts and they're great.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-16-791-Sweetheart-Socket-Chisel/dp/B004TK0IG8

Some things that I'd consider missing but important would be: a bottom bracket tool, crank puller, cone wrenches (for those who have cup and cone bearings), torx drivers (for disc brakes). I'm not sure about the cable puller (it's a nice to have). I'd put a small grease gun and some nitrile gloves above a cable puller. I'd replace the spanner set with an adjustable crescent wrench (or better yet, a Knipex plier wrench - they're amazing). I also keep scissors in my kit for silly things (cutting handlebar tape, opening packages, etc.).

I wholeheartedly agree with omitting a spoke wrench ; )

Okay, this one is not exactly beginner, but for me no tool set is really complete without Knipex pliers. The parallel jaw design gives them an amazing combination of adjustment range and gripping power, all without marring the surface of bicycle components. They are expensive, but well worth it.

UbiGear Cable Tester +Crimp Crimper... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008UY5WL0?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

It comes with the crimper tool the cable tester the RJ45 connectors all for $15.

I used this when I ran CAT5e for my Security Cameras and I had to make sure the cable still worked after pulling through the run and the cable tester worked great. Just plug in a short CAT6 cable in each room and attach the cable tester then go to your utility room and hook up the other end of the tester until it passes, label and move on.

Awesome and congrats!
As far as how it sits it was just temporarily mounted.
The case I thought I had which was large enough for this was not, so I had to disassemble it.

I plan to order one of these, while browsing this sub reddit

Wheeler torque wrench

Rule number 1 for building 3rd Party kits or kits that you plan on taking a part after the initial snap build. Use a pin vice drill to bore out peg holes.. I use this whether I’m building a bandai kit or a third party kit. Solves 95% of fitting issues on most third party kits to the point where tight fits don’t even become a factor