/u/daniell61 is all about that detailing. Here's a recent comment from him

---

do you know if that [bike] is primarily plastic or primarily metal?

for metal polishes (non painted) I can recommend marine 31's metal polish. shit works wonders on oxidized metals!!! (its my go to for non painated)



leather? any car marketed leather cleaner would be fine. I prefer mckees37 or meguiars to be fair.

for plastics I like this. a lot

leahter cleaner here

for learning these microfibers are a good cost effective start and you wont be hurt when they die and you replace them.

I can recommend any mckees37 towels or the rag company microfibers.

this or 3D pink soap (dirt cheap but i love it) is a great soap for washing without stripping waxes!


if you're like me and dont have time to clean...

once you're done. spray this and wash it off and boom bam you're set to go and have a good quality glass silia coating! here

I like mckees products a fair bit ;)

for sake of easy ass waxing I like extender wax but I do also like meguiars quik wax. that stuffs damn cheap but good. sadly its carnuba only :(

---

here's another one

---

TLDR rinse bucket and bucket with soap. use auto products. dont drop your MF cloths.


Personally I'd pick up a shampoo/conditioner and a basic wash mit thats microfiber made (attracts dirt better and wont mar your question)

(I can recommend 3D pink shampoo. cheap AND I love it)

next up a light compound (you can use meguiars ultimate compound. cheap inexpensive and hard to mess up) this brings out that POP in paint pretty easy to use with a hand applicator which are also cheap :)

next upppp paint polish. this is VERY subjective. I prefer mckees37 stuff but its more expensive than most like. I can also recommend meguiars ultimate polish. good and inexpensive :)

after wards you'll need a wax. meguiars ultimate liquid wax is a great starter and once again inexpensive. (I prefer trademark extender/policoat form mckees37) easy on easy off if you're taking you're time.

afterwards you can call it quits and bam you're done.

or keep going and seal your paint to keep that POP lasting. I HIGHLY recommend collinite 845 as its inexpensive as hell and STUPID easy to apply!!

also Mckees 37 SIO 2 ceramic coating is even easier but $.

then theres coatings. you can use something like Cquarts or even carpro....I personally juse use SIO2 from mckees37 currently. spray on wash off bam. not as effective but beyond stupid easy.


oh and also pick up some microfiber cloths of your choice. theres no right/wrong for them other than DONT DROP EM AND KEEP EM CLEAN.


links to products named

ultimate megs wax

ultimate polish megs

sio 2 coating 10% off ad warning


trademark extender wax spray

3D pink car soap/shampoo


collinite 845

ultimate compound megs

ultimate liquid wax -bigger AG carried

megs ult polish AG carried

Autogeek also price matches to a fair extent! and IF you're local you can pick up. :D


these microfibers are damn nice but $

I personally use these and they're lit. 16 pack and heavy duty enough to last a while

wash mitt I use


even NEW I can highly recommend clay baring your paint dis or the kit if you're new


oh and IF your brake pads literally ooze brake dust....this stuff takes time but takes care of the dust easily linky smells WAY better than carpro even at a lower concentration :p

Overview

Time to finally do my car during the weekend of July 30th. This car had not been detailed since July 2014 and has had a lot more miles added on it. Sunday, 7/16/17, this car turned 5 years old and is now at 53k miles.

This car is garage kept at home for most of the time. Parked in an open parking lot during work hours. Sometimes street parked. It experiences full Chicago winters though and all elements. Sees all driving modes from stop-and-go traffic to 130mph+ highway cruises and local streets.

The goal was to get everything I wanted done on a Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. Friday it decided to rain several times during the wash, but that was all good. I still kept washing in the rain and used the rain as some of my rinses. I had to get out of dodge by 4pm Sunday so I could avoid the country bugs on my drive back home to the city.

I left the following on the table to get done before winter comes:

• Windshield restoration (full polishing and treatment application)
  
• Headlight and Tail Light Restoration (just need to be polished and then have coating applied)
  
  ---
  
  

  Work Done
  

  
  The goal was to get it done so now I don't have to worry about it again for another 2-3 years. I wanted to get the paint corrected to an acceptable level and then put a good amount of protection on it to survive at least 2 winters and 2 summers.
  
  As the title states, I tried to accomplish a lot here.
  
  

• Wash, Clay, & Protectant
  
• Paint Correction
  
• Paint Coating (2 layers)
  
• Tip Restoration
  
• The Exceptional Interior
  
• Paint Chip Repair
  
• Trim Restoration
  
  Services described here
  
  The entire detail is outlined in the album, but I will share the gist of it here so I can link products.
  
  The exterior was properly washed with our 20-stage decontamination and wash process. Here is the fire hose nozzle I use tied up with a quick shut-off valve. TRIX was awesome as always. It turned a good amount of purple all over and made the claybarring step go smoothly. The entire car was 1-step corrected with the PC and a Blue Wool Pad/orange 4" foam pad/hand orange pad and Menzerna Heavy Cut Compound 400 (formerly FG400).
  
  The car was around a 85% for paint quality. I'd say this 1-step easily got it to ~93%. It removed the majority of glaringly obvious defects and it would only take a detailer's mindset now to see that final 7% of defects.
  
  The exterior was completely wiped clean with CarPro Eraser. The car was then coated entirely with CarPro CQuartz (2 layers) and then topped with CarPro Reload.
  
  The interior was vacuumed and then was completely cleaned with McKee's 37 Total Interior Cleaner. This product is my go-to for interiors. It works flawlessly and it has a great smell that does linger and just smells naturally clean. I use these types of interior clothes for working with that product. This brush was also utilized to help really get around the leather pores and locations like air vents and the steering wheel.
  
  All interior hard surfaces were treated with Lexol Premium Protectant. Glass was all cleaned with glass MF towels and Stoner's Invisibile Glass.
  
  I cleaned the engine. Finally. The engine was completely cleaned using Chemical Guy's All Clean+ and just general microfiber clothes from a place like AutoZone. The engine was then dressed with Adam's In & Out Spray to enhance the appearance of all plastic/rubber parts.
  
  Door jambs were cleaned up with an MF and P21S Total Auto Wash.
  
  Paint chips were fixed up with the Dr. Colorchip kit. Felt good to finally clean that rust chip on the hood and fix the trunk damage up some more.
  
  The honeycomb grills were cleaned up with a foam application, MF towel, and Klasse All-in-One. Topped with Adam's In&Out Spray.
  
  The exhaust tips were cleaned up using 0000 Steel Wool and Blue Magic Metal Polish and Adam's Metal Polish #1. I used a metal polishing microfiber towel to aid in this process.
  
  The trim was cleaned with the CG All Clean+ and then dressed with Chemical Guys Natural Matte Shine Dressing.
  
  The tires were dressed with AMMO MUD and the wheel wells shined up with Adam's Undercarriage Spray. Wheels were cleaned up with a very soft microfiber and P21S Wheel Cleaner.
  
  ---
  
  

  Response
  

  
  I loved it. It feels so good to drive it again like this. Just want to touch up a few more things and I'll be fully satisfied. I absolutely am so much happier now that my engine is clean again.
  
  
  ---
  
  

  Reflection and Lessons Learned
  

  
  Not much here outside of just taking care of the car more. I neglected that engine bay for too long but thankfully it was mostly dust. The exhaust tips should have been taken care of more. At least every spring/fall. I will continue to take care of them now 2x a year so they can maintain where they are at and not get worse.
  
  Preventative maintenance very much applies to detailing as much as it applies to anything mechanical.
  
  ---
  
  Total Time: 17 hours on exterior, 3 hours on interior
  
  Total Cost: Obviously free for me, but to give an idea of what I would have charged for this...it would have been $1,933.98. The 2 layers of coating and Reload would have been $900 alone. The rest of my prices you can see on my site.
  
  www.chicagosdad.com
  
  www.facebook.com/chicagosdad
  
  Former Chicago's DAD /r/AutoDetailing Detail Write-Ups

Hope this helps! This isn't an exhaustive list of the best professional products but some of the best top rated affordable and highly rated by forums and high subscriber YouTubers. I'll try to answer questions as they come. Thanks for all tye comments and positive/critical feedback. Promise is all helps in the end!

Wash/Decontamination

1. Meguiar’s Gold Class Shampoo Car Wash - $23 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071HR14SJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
2. Mothers California Gold Clay Bar System (Best out of the packaged kits compared to “professional” line expensive clays/lubes) - $16 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002U2V1Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
3. Carpro Iron X Iron Remover 500 ml with Sprayer - $19 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UM6DLE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
4. CarPro Eraser Intense Oil & Polish Cleanser (Rated a little higher than Gyeon Prep – A few options out there but this is cheap and works great compared to straight IPA spray/wipe. It’s not rough on the clear coat and doesn’t cause issues with using higher % of IPA over time) - $17 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FY0XY1S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
5. 2x Five-Gallon buckets with a dirt guard in the bottom. – Lowe’s $10-$15 with the dirt guard (already had that)
   
   Wheels/Tires
   
6. CarGuys “Premium Wheel Cleaner” - $17 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014V9GFJU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
7. Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish (Classic Product but you really won’t find a more reliable and top notch wheel polish than this – Here is Amazon link but usually you can pick this up cheaper at Walmart for about $4 or $5 I believe) - $7 - https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05101-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B0009H519Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549046381&sr=8-3&keywords=mag+and+aluminum+polish
   
8. 1x 2.5 Gallon Bucket Dedicated To Wheel Cleaning ONLY – Lowe’s $5
   
   Compounding/Polishing
   
9. Meguiar’s New m110 (Newer m105) Compound (Try To Find A 15% Coupon) - $40 - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/meguiars-m110-pro-compound.html#.XFRhIlVKhpg
   
10. Meguiar’s New m210 (Newer m205) Finishing Polish/Swirl Remover (Try To Find A 15% Coupon) - $40 - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/meguiars-m210-pro-finishing-polish.html#.XFRhIVVKhpg
    
11. 6x Pack Lake Country CCS Compounding/Polishing Pads – 3x Orange/2x White/1x Green – $60 (Try to find a usable 15% coupon) - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/ccs-pads.html#.XFRfgVVKhpg
    
12. Meguiar’s PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish (Using for rear/front light polishing – Could use your compound to polish as an alternative but I like the protection factor built into this plastic polish) - $5 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AY3SR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
13. Car Foam Drill Polishing Pad Kit - 22x Piece 3” Buffing Pads (Cheap drill adapter + pads for head/tail lights only – You could go with a legit company for 3” pads but for the cost it was a joke and they are only for head/tail lights, NOT paint) - $11 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076ZJMHB1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Finshing Wax/Protectant/Plastic & Trim Restorer
    
14. Meguiar’s Ultimate Liquid Wax - $16 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HCM9H4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
15. TriNova Plastic & Trim Restorer (Hard Pressed to find anything as affordable for the ratings) - $13 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AAZ1OAE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Interior/Glass Cleaners
    
16. 303 PROTECTANT: Interior & Exterior UV Protectant (Use it to wipe leather seats, dash, and plastics) - $10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0185PU38A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
17. Invisible Glass Premium Glass Cleaner w/ EZ Grip (Awesome stuff) - $4 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KAON5Q2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Convertible Fabric Top Cleaner/Protectant/Sealer
    
18. RaggTopp Fabric Convertible Top Cleaner/Protectant Kit (This is top in class. There aren’t really any other higher rated options. Go with kit that has cleaner/brush/protectant sealer.) - $50 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008MM5ZFI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Microfiber Cloths/Car Drying Microfiber Cloths/Buffing Microfibers/Brushes/Etc.
    
19. Zwipes Microfiber Cleaning Cloths (24-Pack) (**Found this on a couple lists online for high ratings and they are soft/Highly rated on Amazon and cheap!) - $13 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANZHG7C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
20. Chemical Guys Chenille Microfiber Premium Scratch-Free Wash Mitt (Might consider 2-3 of them for washing the top and bottom parts of car – prevent further scratching) - $7 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TTL0TE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
21. Mothers Wheel Brush - $8 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GJ3DZS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
22. Chemical Guys Microfiber Wash Cleaning Detergent Concentrate (Almost all the videos put this one as #1 compared to a couple other companies that offer dedicated microfiber wash detergent) - $10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TJXWH4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
23. Chemical Guys Woolly Mammoth Microfiber Dryer Towel (25 in. x 36 in.) - $25 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042Z0LEO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
24. Other Random buffing foam applicators and microfiber cloths that came with some of the kits listed above. Will use those for compound wiping and etc.
    
25. Plastic Containers For Organization – Hefty 1.625 (Microfiber container) & 3.75 (Other products w/o squirt triggers) Gallon Containers I believe are the ones in the picture. These are awesome considering the cheap pricing. The plastic is heavy duty and the lathes aer decent all things considered. - https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hefty-1-625-Gallon-6-5-Quart-Clear-Tote-with-Latching-Lid/1000505511
    
    

Let's start by saying car covers are a pain in the ass for daily use, the car has to be perfectly clean to prevent it from scratching and it just doesn't work that way unless the car is washed every couple of days.

Instead I'd just wash 1 or 2 times a week, and get a gallon-size of Meguiar's spray wax and Last Touch, because you know you'll be in a constant battle against certain elements, might as well stock up (and you save like 50% just buying in bulk this way). In fact I recommend checking out their entire detailer line because you're going to go through a lot of soaps, waxes, etc. Their gallon of shampoo plus for $20 is a great start. And you can find deals like 3-packs of their supreme shine towels for $6 as an amazon add-on item if you're a prime customer.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D11101-Shampoo-Plus-Gallon/dp/B000EZICII

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3002-Microfiber-Wash-Mitt/dp/B000RXKR6M/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1485457672&sr=1-1&keywords=meguiar%27s+microfiber+mitt

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D15601-Synthetic-X-Press-Spray/dp/B005JPJMI2

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D15501-Touch-Spray-Detailer/dp/B0006SH4NC/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1485453717&sr=1-1&keywords=last+touch

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D12001-Glass-Cleaner-Concentrate/dp/B0006SH4KU/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1485457691&sr=1-4&keywords=meguiar%27s+glass+cleaner

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Supreme-Shine-Microfiber-Cloths/dp/B0009IQZH0/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1485455013&sr=1-2&keywords=supreme+shine

I just buy all their gallon sized stuff and then reuse my old bottles of spray wax, detailers spray, glass cleaner, wheel bottles, etc. Saves me lots of money, like the difference between $100 now or a couple hundred by next year. For instance their gallon size of glass cleaner is probably enough to set you straight on that for a few years, dilutes 10-1 with distilled water. That's 10 gallons of glass cleaner, put that in an old windex bottle and never run out!

Also the Chemical Guy's bucket kit https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-ACC_101-Detailing-Bucket/dp/B001U522GO was a pretty amazing deal and necessary if you're going to use coin-wash bays. However the mitt included is a bit rough, so instead I use a meguiar's microfiber mitt as its the softest I've found so far. The paint on this car is very soft so it's important to use the softest products possible on the paint.

An Invisible Glass Reach and Clean tool has worked out great for cleaning the interior glass and keeping it from fogging up. Great item to have. https://www.amazon.com/Invisible-Glass-Reach-Clean-95161/dp/B0017K69MA

And a bird poop tip, keep a plastic container with microfibers, a bottle of water, and a bottle of last touch / spray wax mix in the trunk or behind passenger seat. If a bird hits the car, just soak microfiber with water, apply for 30 seconds, and then clean with the detailer spray / spray wax.

To prevent corrosion, you're going to want to clean deep into the wheel wells and stuff with dedicated brushes and mitts, and then use an anti corrosion product (I ordered some ACF-50 spray recently, getting it in the mail today probably) https://www.amazon.com/Lear-Chemical-ACF50-Anti-Corrosion-Lubricant/dp/B000P1C8UO . You're going to want to check crevices for salt buildup, it can happen on some of the window trim parts, so it might be necessary to remove them and clean them out if it starts to rust underneath. You might want to use dabs of silicone stuff to prevent water and salt from corroding these spots. There are a few posts about corrosion of FT86club forums so read up on them. Also your cabin air filter, leaves and bugs like to get in your cabin air filter and make things nasty. You can easily check / service this yourself, its behind the glove box.


For maintenance, I would NOT go past 5000 miles on an oil change, and be choosy where you take your oil changes. The car likes running on fresh oil period. Buy a 5 pack of oem oil filters and oem crush washers to keep yourself straight for awhile, saves money and time. Or also a fumoto oil valve can save even more effort, as a DIY'er it made my oil changes the easiest thing to do. Check your tire pressure constantly, because a decrease in pressure will make the car drive like crap and will wear your tires out quickly.

Your 60k mile maintenance or therabouts is an important interval. Needs stuff done like spark plug changes, and probably checking the clutch throwout bearing to see if it has become worn. These are expensive and labor intensive, expect a $1000 bill.

I would reccomend these materials for the two bucket wash method. Its probably the most common method, and one of the safest. There are plenty of youtube how to's on this. These are the materials you'll need.

• Two buckets that will be used for the two bucket wash method. They can be purchased from a local home center for relatively cheap. $10
  
• Grit Guards. Preferably two, in order to prevent grit from reentering the wash mitt. $20
  
• Wash Mitt. Something like this will be just fine. $8
  
• Car soap. This is completely up to you. Something like Meguiar's Gold Class is fine. $10
  
  
• Wheel brush. Dependent on what you type of wheels you have. A quick amazon search will give you an idea. $10-20
  
• Sealant. I use Meguiar's M21. Not the best not the worst. Im sure others will chime in an have recommendations for you. $20.
  
• Wax. I don't use a wax because my car is older, and the sealant does just fine.
  
  
• Microfibers. The Rag Company has some great starter kits.
  
  Not Necessarily essentials, but recommended.
  
  
• Wheel cleaner. Something like Sonax. $15
  
• Clay Bar. This will be used to intitially remove contaminants from the car. Plenty of youtube how to's and kits can be found easily through amazon or your local auto parts store. $20
  
  I don't think you need anything like a DA at this point. Others will have recommendations for you, and I encourage you to take their advice as well. Some great youtube channels are Ammo NYC, Larry is a master at explaining how to's. He has is own line of products but they're expensive. You can even email him with questions and he'll respond quickly and go above and beyond to explain somethingto you. Junkman, also another great channel. Chemical Guys, they have some pretty good products but their customer service is shit. Their youtube videos are pretty good but all they do is upsell their products.
  
  I'm fairly new to detailing like you. I dont have the best products, but what I use seems to work for me. There are better products out there but budgets can only be so large.
  

/u/jwinskowski please feel free to PM me at anytime for this. EDIT: if your tank is MATTE don't use products not designed for it! (Shampoo is fine for either)

TLDR rinse bucket and bucket with soap. use auto products. dont drop your MF cloths.


I'm not familiar with Guzzi's clearcoat so ill play towards the cautious side.


Personally I'd pick up a shampoo/conditioner and a basic wash mit thats microfiber made (attracts dirt better and wont mar your question)

(I can recommend 3D pink shampoo. cheap AND I love it)

next up a light compound (you can use meguiars ultimate compound. cheap inexpensive and hard to mess up) this brings out that POP in paint pretty easy to use with a hand applicator which are also cheap :)

next upppp paint polish. this is VERY subjective. I prefer mckees37 stuff but its more expensive than most like. I can also recommend meguiars ultimate polish. good and inexpensive :)

after wards you'll need a wax. meguiars ultimate liquid wax is a great starter and once again inexpensive. (I prefer trademark extender/policoat form mckees37) easy on easy off if you're taking you're time.

afterwards you can call it quits and bam you're done.

or keep going and seal your paint to keep that POP lasting. I HIGHLY recommend collinite 845 as its inexpensive as hell and STUPID easy to apply!!

also Mckees 37 SIO 2 ceramic coating is even easier but $.

then theres coatings. you can use something like Cquarts or even carpro....I personally juse use SIO2 from mckees37 currently. spray on wash off bam. not as effective but beyond stupid easy.


oh and also pick up some microfiber cloths of your choice. theres no right/wrong for them other than DONT DROP EM AND KEEP EM CLEAN.


links to products named

ultimate megs wax

ultimate polish megs

sio 2 coating 10% off ad warning


trademark extender wax spray

3D pink car soap/shampoo


collinite 845

ultimate compound megs

ultimate liquid wax -bigger AG carried

megs ult polish AG carried

Autogeek also price matches to a fair extent! and IF you're local you can pick up. :D


these microfibers are damn nice but $

I personally use these and they're lit. 16 pack and heavy duty enough to last a while

wash mitt I use


even NEW I can highly recommend clay baring your paint dis or the kit if you're new


oh and IF your brake pads literally ooze brake dust....this stuff takes time but takes care of the dust easily linky smells WAY better than carpro even at a lower concentration :p

/u/solitudechirs thanks for the tag

/u/CG_Ops dat wall o text

Figured my routine might be useful to people looking at this kind of thing:

For the interior I highly, highly recommend using Nextzett Cockpit Premium. I ordered like 23 different interior products off of Amazon and it was the only one I liked for a true matte look inside that didn’t smell weird. I use it on everything except the screen, and it really does a great job of cleaning without leaving behind shine or residue.

I use a Sunjoe pressure washer for the outside, and a foam cannon. I use Adams Ultra Foam on my wife’s M3, and on mine I use CarPro Reset (I have Xpel Stealth). I use the two bucket method after foaming the car down. The pressure washer is super easy to use and was a great investment.

I dry with an Adams Air Cannon and it’s amazing if you are washing your car in your garage or driveway. No messing with towels or possible scratches. It’s extremely powerful, I was pretty surprised. Plus the air is warm and filtered.

For wheels I use Griots Heavy Duty Wheel cleaner, with a Chemical Guys brush. I’ve never been a “clean your wheels” kind of guy before my Tesla, but it’s really easy to do.

For interior scent, I have tried countless products. It’s actually almost sad how many car scent products I have tried (not a smoker, just like a good smelling car). The only one that I would recommend is Ozium in the can, not aerosol. It has a light citrus smell that gets tons of compliments like “your car always smells so clean and fresh, not fake or like cologne”. The only other close contender is Dr Beasleys Leather, closely followed by their New Car Scent. It’s actually the only New Car scent I can stand. I settled on Ozium because it’s set and forget. I keep a small can in the front of my car, and a big can in the trunk.

I hate waterless washing for the most part (saving the planet aside) just because it’s never really as effective as a full wash without ten times the work. ONR is a good product though, and easy to use.

Best thing I ever did on both of our M3s is getting a professional ceramic coating put on. Washing is about ten times as easy as it was before, and drying is about 20x. Definitely recommend it, on both a wrapped or unwrapped car.

2015 Ford Focus ST

I performed my Express Detail on this 2015 Ford Focus ST for a client. This client emailed me Thanksgiving morning hoping I could help with a gift his best friend "spilled" in his vehicle. I couldn't help him since I was on my way out of town, but I gave him instructions of how to help get the gift out. He ended up booking me to come over when I got back :)

His car is pretty new (a month + if I remember correctly), so my Express Detail was perfect for his vehicle.

This package is my most popular as I believe it's the most bang for your buck (or at least I tried to price it that way).

Products Used:

Wash

• Meg's Gold Class Shampoo
  
• Pressure Washer Foam Cannon
  
• Ryobi Pressure Washer
  
• Microfiber Chenille microfiber mitt
  
  Wheels
  
  
• APC (All Purpose Cleaner)
  
• Lug Nut Brush
  
• Wheel Master Brushes
  
  Decontamination
  
  
• IronX
  
  Clay
  
  
• Nanoskin Fine Sponge
  
• ONR (Lube Dilution)
  
  1-Step
  
  
• HD Speed
  
• Rupes Green Pad
  
  Interior
  
  
• ONR diluted for quick detailer
  
• Costco microfibers
  
• Boars hair brush
  
  Notes
  
  I found out that there is a special trick to putting this car in reverse. It involves lifting the collar below the shift knob. It's actually pretty interesting.
  
  Price: $215 + TIP
  
  Time: 4.5-5 Hours
  
  Thank you for your business fellow redditor :)

Hey guys i'm new to this detailing scene..but I do hope to learn a lot from everyone! I have an 05' white civic and the exterior isn't terrible, but there's definitely parts where there's medium oxidation and swirl marks. Just overall the paint doesn't feel glossy and smooth, just weathered and feels like metal.

Please let me know if I got the steps correct...any inputs is greatly appreciated!

1. First do a thorough wash, and dry completely.
   
2. Clay bar the entire exterior (I'm going to use http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002U2V1Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)
   
3. Here's where I don't know what I should do...do I compound or is that not necessary? I'm thinking if I skip compounding, I will use Scratch X (http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10307-Scratch-X-2-0/dp/B0002UNON8)
   
4. Then I will Polish with This: http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Ultimate-Polish-16-oz/dp/B004HCOE8Q
   
5. What do you recommend I do next? Could I follow the Mother's 3-step Ultimate Wax starting with this product? http://www.amazon.com/MOTHERS-07100-California-Gold-Polish/dp/B0002U26QE
   
   

• By the way, as you see I have attached the pictures...what do I do with the oxidation on the exterior windshield trim?
  
• Next, this paint damage, I was thinking to get a touchup paint from the dealership, but how should I apply this?
  
• Lastly, whats the most effective way to clean this part..the door jambs?
  
  Thanks so much for all your suggestions and inputs. I hope to learn a lot from all of you.
  
  PS. Extra question, I'm doing a roadtrip after the detail...(stupid i know) but what's a good product to get rid of the bug stains while I'm out on the road?
  
  THANKS!!
  

You have quite the garage going there, and a good list of car care items. I was keeping up with a family and 3 cars, so my extra detail time was never quite abundant over the last few years. I previously had an arsenal of products like you, but narrowed it down to 3 to simplify and ease my busy life. I really liked the Nu Finish Liquid Polish and then gravitated to the wash last to cover was the plastic, rubber, and leather protectant. I had a couple different products, but the NuVinyl did all, including leather, that armor-all (basic) does not. As mentioned, I just had to simplify for many reasons and this worked for me. It may not be the professional kit of choice, but 3 products help keep my 3 cars in great shape.

And as far as applying compounds, polishes, or waxes, I spent years doing it by hand until I gave Meguiar's DA Power System a shot. Costs more then by hand (initially), but it goes quicker and produces a better product. This is the only product I tried, I am sure there are plenty of other options out there. Good luck cleaning!

I would have taken more photos but I didn't set out with the intention of making a post; however, when I saw the results I knew I had to.

Like I said, this mini van only set me back $300. But just because it's a cheap turd doesn't mean you can't take some pride in it and at least put a ribbon on it.

Anyways, I'll add some more details left out of the post.

First I mixed up regular ole dish soap and water and grabbed some 1000 grit wet/dry sand paper, dunked it in the solution and let it soak while I taped off my headlights. I don't think you have to let it soak, but that's what I did. Once I finished taping off the lights, I started wet sanding and just redunked as needed for adequate lubrication.

Now I've read some posts on here about people saying it's easier to see when you're done sanding if you go in one direction for a certain grit and the opposite in another so you can see sanding lines. I didn't do that either. I just sanded it til I felt it was smooth and/or had been doing it for a couple minutes; up, down, left, right, circles. Whatever. It worked out for me.

Repeat exact same procedure for 2000 grit wet/dry sand paper.

Now, if you've never done this before you might start to get nervous, because at this stage your headlights look (somehow) even worse than when you started. Fret not my friend. Patience is a virtue.

Now I have a DA polisher, but these headlights are narrow. So I opted at just purchasing a generic named 3" backing plate, drill adapter and pad combo set off amazon. Some of the reviews said it wasn't the greatest. But that was fine by me. I just wanted them for this headlight. Those reviewers are wrong. I think they were thinking you could do an entire vehicle with these 3" pads. The pads and backing plate were high quality and for that price, even if they weren't I wouldn't have been all that upset. I highly recommend these.

I used the two flat top oranges pads for this project. First I used M105. Polished til it "flashed" then buffed it off with a microfiber towel. Switched to my other orange pad and polished with M205 following the same procedure.

Then I stood in awe of how great they came out. Did a wipe down with isopropyl alcohol, and two coats of collinite 845 that I applied with some cheap microfiber applicators for future uv protection.

Then I went and excitedly rushed my girlfriend outside to see. She was impressed but decidedly less than me.

Also, while I was doing this, a man approached me and asked me how much I'd charge to do his car. I talked with him a bit, and informed him that for the price I would charge to do his one car he'd be better off doing some research, buying his own supplies and just learning a new skill. He thought about it and excitedly told me he already had a drill and that he decided he'd do it. He went on to say he was also going to do not just his car, but also his mom's car and his girlfriend's car. He wrote down everything I said! Haha,I hope his come out as well as mine!

Edit: formatting/spelling

Looks great man. The last shot reminds me of the one drawback to having a red car, no awesome mirror effect when it's been clay'd, polished and waxed :/

http://i.imgur.com/MDB0u.jpg


Anyways, next polish and wax, after you clay, hit it with the buffer and some of this stuff to get rid of the swirls. The quick detailer spray doesn't do that (unless you have polish off to the side in that 1st pic)

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B003LMJP4Q/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1407072156&sr=8-5&keywords=meguiars+polish

Chemical guys and cobra both make excellent polishing and buffing pads. Use 1 pad per side of the car so you'll use around 4, maybe 5 depending on how much dirt the pad collects.

http://www.amazon.com/Cobra-Cross-GrooveTM-White-Polishing/dp/B001VD8NTA/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_text_y

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-BUFX_105HEX5-Hex-Logic-Polishing/dp/B0042UE3XY/ref=pd_sbs_auto_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=19HEN7M88JQ3EWP7G1WR

The different brands use different color pads depending on what you're doing (heavy scratch removal, light swirl removal, applying wax, etc) so note that when buying.

Also, I would say after you finish polishing but before applying wax, hit it with one or two coats of an acrylic polymer sealant. It does the same job as wax but is more durable. This is especially helpful if you don't keep the car in a garage or daily drive it because wax typically will only last a few months before it's gone. Acrylic will last much longer. I'm a huge fan of the Menzerna sealant.

http://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-power-lock-sealant.html





The trick to prolonging the protective finish is to spray and wipe down the car after every wash between polishing and waxing. This will help maintain the protective coat.

Blackfire wet diamond is really good stuff for this.

http://www.amazon.com/Blackfire-Polymer-Spray-Sealant-20oz/dp/B005QAI466/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1407072661&sr=1-3&keywords=blackfire+wet+diamond

That quick detailer spray may work for that but I haven't used the meguiars quick detail in forever. I know it worked really well for me as a claybar lubricant.

Edit: and throw that sponge away!! buy a nice microfiber wash mitt and use a bucket (or 2) with a plastic dirt catcher in the bottom. (pro tip: you can buy nice buckets for super cheap at home depot. They're orange and the dirt catchers fit perfectly!) Google search 2 bucket wash method if you're not familiar with the process.

First of all, here's a link with some pictures: https://imgur.com/a/DdDMX8f

I just bought this car two weekends ago and I'm stoked. I have washed it once (normal two-bucket method, no polish/wax). I'm going to plan for a more in-depth detail this coming or the following weekend, so I'm planning on making some purchases and wanted to run them by you guys! My general plan is do a foam cannon spray, rest a little bit, rinse, decontaminate w/ Griot's Speed Shine and Griot's Synthetic Clay.

After decontamination, in the long run, I would like to put a coat of CQuartz. Beforehand, obviously, I need to remove as many of the swirls/scratches as possible. I don't have any experience yet with compounding/polishing so do you think I should try it first before buying the CQuartz, or should I just go for it?

Here's what I'd like to buy:

1. Soap - Currently I have a bottle of some basic Meguiars cheap stuff that I was using on my previous old cars. After reading around some, I was going to either go with Gold Class or Optimum Car Wash. CarPro Reset is another option for me as I would like to apply CQuartz eventually so I want something without additives and waxes. Currently I have Optimum Car Wash in my cart, any reason I should go with anything else? I know everyone raves about ONR, but is that more for maintenance washes? Haven't looked into it much yet.
   
2. Snow foam - Chemical Guys Honeydew Snow Foam. I have a small bottle of this and I like the results, so I may buy a gallon unless I'm convinced otherwise!
   
3. Drying Towel - I have plenty of normal microfiber towels for touching up and interior work, but I don't have dedicated large drying towels. The Meguiar's X2000 drying towel was recommended a couple places on the sub and it seems like a good value; but I have heard Griot's is good as well. Any thoughts?
   
4. Polisher - Griot's Garage 6" DA Polisher. From what I have read, this seems to be one of the best-rated entry-level polishers. I haven't done enough research yet to know what type of pads/liquids I will need based on my specific paint, so I'll save those decisions for another day. The car was mostly well taken care of but there are a couple etched spots from what I'm assuming was bird poop or sap. There are a couple pictures in the album of this. Other than that, there seem to be an average amount of "swirl" marks but I'll need to do more research to determine what level of liquid/pads I need. I took the photos in the morning so I didn't have a good light source to show the "swirls".
   
   I already have some good stuff for cleaning wheels and I've been using Griot's Interior Detailer for the interior and it seems to be doing a good enough job. The interior isn't very dirty so just light cleaning suffices.
   
   As for CQuartz prep, before I am more confident in the paint correction process, should I apply a wax after polishing, or will that just make it more of a pain in the ass to decontaminate the paint when I decide to apply CQuartz in the next month or so? FYI, I'm going to be reading the DA polishing guides on this sub before I buy anything related to that.
   
   Any comments or suggestions on things I have selected?
   
   Thanks!

This won't make it look perfect, but it will improve it a LOT.

First you need to gently clean it up best you can. I would use this stuff, but any polishing compound or liquid rubbing compound should work. Don't rub hard with this stuff, just light pressure your only trying to clean it up and give yourself a good surface for the touch up paint.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G18116-Clear-Polishing-Compound/dp/B006FUT154/

Next get some touch up paint for you car, you can get your cars paint code from any Subaru dealer if you give them your VIN number. You can get the touch up paint from either a Subaru dealer, online, or someplace like Auto Zone.

When touching up the paint less is more, so try to use very little paint and multiple coats.

After the touch up paint has dried then use something like this and just keep polishing it and slowly it will begin to blend in better and better.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B003LMJP4Q/

Again this isn't the best fix possible but is probably the most affordable fix for the quality you'll end up with if you do everything correctly.

honestly, i wouldn't get either of those. yeah they're both good, but you really don't need all of that.

what i use:

griot's garage clay

meguairs soap

mothers cleaner wax

nu finish

and of course a (or a couple) 5 gallon buckets with a grit guard , which is completely not necessary, but highly recommended by professional detailers. i don't use one, and my car comes out fine. and a good, soft wash mitt. either a good sponge or a wheel brush for your wheels would be needed as well.

my once a year routine is as follows:

wash, claybar, nu polish, cleaner wax

usually wash every 2 weeks or so, and rewax every 6 weeks or so. if i did a bunch of off roading and the paint is gritty i'll clay as needed, but usually it's once a year.

also head over to /r/autodetailing for a lot of tips. beware though that they use a lot of very high end products, and circle jerk over polishing and getting perfect reflections. if all you're looking to do is keeping your paint in good condition, then what i do is just fine. if you're interested in keeping your paint better than factory, follow them.

Cleaning tips!

Here's a great starter kit ($25) for washing / polishing / waxing your car's paint: Amazon link - everything you need except a hose, bucket, and wash mitt.

Keep all windows clean. Keep your wipers clean (yes you have to clean them too). Stoners Invisible Glass and Rain-X on all windows.

Separate all towels. Don't mix your wax towels with your glass towels with your interior towels. You can get some in different colors to help separate them. You need to own a lot of good microfiber towels and separate and label them, keep them clean and dry. Recommend stocking up on Meguiar's Supreme Shine towels: Amazon link You want your towels to contain 17-30% polyamide (nylon), and the rest polyester. Polyamide is what give microfiber it's soft feel and absorbency.

Cabin air filter, change it every 15k-20k miles. These are what your air conditioning is filtered through and it gets dirty. So replace this and you'll have cleaner cabin air!

Vaccum the inside of the car on a regular weekly basis. Dyson DC34 handheld vaccum is the best thing ever: Amazon link Also some oxy-clean car fabric/upholstry cleaner works great for cleaning the car seats once a year- just make sure you dry it and run the A/C.

If you need more info head over to /r/autodetailing

1. Lexol Leather Cleaner and Conditioner is very good. Usually readily available (at least here in the states), and inexpensive and effective. The cleaner is very mild, so if you need something stronger to remove stubborn dirt you can try a diluted all purpose cleaner. Megiuar's is very safe for interior and can be diluted. I've also used Megiuar's Quick Interior Detailer and it works very well, and doesn't leave any sort of residue behind.
   
   
2. Try something like 303 Aerospace protectant or Cockpit Premium. https://www.amazon.com/nextzett-92470515-Cockpit-Premium-16-9/dp/B0002Z2MZ4/ They will leave behind UV protection without any greasy residue. Very good quality premium products.
   
   
3. Any cheap brush will do. More expensive brushes will just hold up better over time, not really worth it IMO if you are just cleaning your personal car. I use a couple of cheap brushes from Amazon and a couple of paint brushes and they work just fine. Whatever you can find locally for a good price. I have separate brushes for carpet, interior plastics, and a tire and wheel brush so I don't cross-contaminate. Also, you need a stiffer bristle for carpets than you do for plastics obviously.
   
   
4. Any microfiber from The Rag Company. I believe they just recently opened their Europe store last month. https://www.theragcompany.shop/
   
   
5. You don't need a steamer, it just makes things faster to clean. If you have dirty upholstery that needs to be cleaned, just use an all purpose cleaner diluted in a spray bottle, spray it down, let it sit for a few minutes, then blot clean with a rag. For carpets, you can do a bit of scrubbing with a brush first, and then blot dry with a rag to soak up moisture and remove the dirt. This video will show you how to do it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OiO52BU256M
   
   Also, Larry from Ammo NYC has some amazing videos that are worth watching that will teach you a lot. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R0EOb2nEWtk&t=684s
   
   Hope this helps!

Been slowly building up 'maintenance' type supplies and think I'm on the right track but have a few questions. Here's what I've got:

• Meg's Quick Interior Detailer
  
• 303 protectant
  
• Meg's Ultimate Quik Wax (spray)
  
• Meg's Ultimate Quik Detailer (spray)
  
• Some MF pads
  
• [Detailing brushes]
  (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CWBDBFU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
• Tire dressing applicators
  
• Mother's wheel brush
  
• Costco MF towels
  
  And probably some other random stuff. Most of what I've listed above I haven't even used yet! So some quick questions!
  
  

1. I have been considering getting some Meg's APC. Am I correct that I could use this on tires, light buildup on tailpipes, Husky (like Weatherbeater) all-weather floor mats? Any guidelines on dilution for these applications; and what else could the APC be used for?
   
2. For interior cleaning, can I safely use the Meg's QID with the brushes to get inside crevices including around switchgear without risk of short-circuiting something?
   
3. QID on a MF OK to clean nav/LCD screens?
   
   We had both of our cars detailed a couple months ago by someone who has a small side business in our neighborhood, so they are in pretty good shape, and just want to keep them that way. At some point in the future, I may consider getting a DA but for now just want to get better at regular maintenance.
   
   Thanks for reading this long-winded post!

Here's a long thing I wrote for a friend just getting started. It was an email and i don't feel like fixing links.

1. Menzerna (Now called Jescar) Power lock Sealant:
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050IQH9K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
2. Optimum Spray Wax (this is a topper wax to go on top the sealant, or touch up areas any time):
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GG9FI8I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
3. Meguiar's Drying Towels (I HIGHLY recommend these, super effective) I got 2:
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQZFM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
4. Mother's detailer kit (gives you detail spray, clay bars, and micro fiber towel as a bonus)
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Mothers-07240-California-Gold-System/dp/B0002U2V1Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1476666101&sr=8-3&keywords=mother%27s+detail+kit
   
   
5. Applicator pads
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Viking-862400-Blue-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B0051MYL8E/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1476666178&sr=8-3&keywords=wax+applicator
   
   
6. Buffing towels (for buffing in the wax or sealant)
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Detailing-Multi-Use-Microfiber-Professional-Dual-Pile/dp/B01L4L4L26/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1476666651&sr=8-17&keywords=microfiber+buffing+towel
   
   
   
7. Proper wash mitt (just a microfiber towel won't cut it) - there's also a 2 pack with prime.
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3002-Microfiber-Wash-Mitt/dp/B000RXKR6M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476667551&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+wash+mitt
   
   
8. Car wash (this can be found at any autozone like store as well, this is a big bottle)
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05664-California-Gold-Wash/dp/B0009H51B2/ref=sr_1_9?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1476668207&sr=8-9&keywords=car+wash&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011
   
   
   
   
   Do you have 2 buckets to use? Always set one bucket up with the soap water, and the other with just water. Soak up your mitt, wash the car, rinse the mitt, then soak again in the soap water. This helps reduce contaminants. If you want to go the extra mile, get these for the buckets to prevent dirt from swashing around the bucket:
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Grit-Guard-Insert-Red-Diameter/dp/B000N3W8J0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1476667750&sr=8-2&keywords=grit+guard
   
   It fits in a home depot bucket.
   
   If you have particularly pesky tar or bugs on the car, you'll need this that you can get from any autozone type store:
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Stoner-Car-Care-Tarminator-Remover/dp/B0002LBGWI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476667917&sr=8-1&keywords=tarminator
   
   WARNING **
   
   When using the power lock (or any sealant / non-liquid wax), DO NOT let it touch any black plastic or rubber parts of the car!!!!! If it does, just wipe it off with a wet micro fiber cloth. Failure to follow this will result in a white hue on the black piece. You could always painter's tape off those areas that are hard to avoid.
   
   Steps for this process:
   
   
9. wash the car, two bucket method with wash mitt.
   
   1b) Bring the car to an area with as little sun light as possible for the next steps!
   
   
10. Leave car wet. Use detail spray to keep all surfaces lubricated. Rub all surfaces down with a flat piece of the clay bar (flatten in your hand). About 2" diameter or so. Every panel or when the clay bar looks dirty, just kneed it a few times, folding it and re-flattening it. Every so often, throw out the clay and get some more. If you drop the clay on the ground, it's garbage throw it out. Each clay bar should last you multiple details of your whole car, just tear pieces off.
    
    
11. Dry the car down with the MF drying towels. Buff in any water spots, streaks, etc from the detail spray. If an area needs a little extra love, spray some detail spray on it and rub her in.
    
    
12. Use applicator pad. Apply a bit of sealant on the pad, even it out in the pad, and apply a thin layer of wax across the paint surface (NOT BLACK TRIM). You can use sealant on windows if you desire. Re-apply sealant to the applicator pad whenever you need more.
    
    
13. let the sealant dry (20-30 minutes, depending on conditions). It will haze when dry.
    
    
14. Use buffing cloths to wipe the haze out. You may need to do some hand "buffing", use different angles of sight to make sure the paint is now completely smooth and clean.
    
    
15. Let dry a bit, 20 minutes?
    
    
16. Spray VERY LIGHTLY with the optimum spray wax on paint surfaces. There are 2 settings on the bottle, make sure it is on the setting that spreads out the wax not a stream.
    
    
17. Buff in the spray wax with buffing towels.
    
    
18. ENJOY protection. Watch the beads of water fly off the car for the entire season.

I'd say no to the cover- you bought the seats so enjoy them!. What I'd do is head down to a local auto store and purchase leather interior cleaner and conditioner - something like this https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10916-Leather-Cleaner-Conditioner/dp/B0002V9IFU

Along with this get some microfiber towels to use when cleaning the seats. You can always get the cover if you destroy the seats in 10 years . I'd use the seats and leather for you, not the next owner.

For wax you can spread it however you like. Machines (dual orbital polishers) are better, but if you're happy with hand wax results don't bother spending more $$. Again, I tend to like meguiars, you can check out their liquid and paste waxes. From what I remember the liquid is easier to apply. Again, grab some more microfibers. Every 6 months should suffice

If you plan on carrying supplies keeping a blanket is a great idea. Also if you are in a in a cold climate you can keep a blanket - but I wouldn't worry about EVER getting stranded in a well-maintained corolla (key: follow the maintenance schedule and don't skip stuff!!!)

ALSO: WASH THE CAR EVERY 2 WEEKS. Even though you can't see a lot of grime its there. This will prevent it from rusting up a la monte carlo

Enjoy the new car !

Hello,

I've read the wiki and its a huge resource. Thank you to all who put it together!

Some of the product reccommedations are unavailble on Amazon so I just wanted to ask a few questions with regards a brand new car I bought and see if these products are whats needed:

So firstly, washing the exterior of the car:

I have Meguiars Gold class wash, I have two buckets, and grit guards, I will do the two buckets method. Now do I dry the car with:

this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ERU0F3A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A1RKELVBY446LD&psc=1 or

this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GXRFLY4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A1RKELVBY446LD&psc=1

Once I have washed the outside and dried it with the towels, I then apply the wax, I will be using #845 - can I use these to apply it:

https://www.amazon.com/Viking-Car-Care-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B0051MYL8E/ref=pd_bxgy_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0051MYL8E&pd_rd_r=BG4S92NE1D9CH9E2J67C&pd_rd_w=HVEIG&pd_rd_wg=6EheM&psc=1&refRID=BG4S92NE1D9CH9E2J67C

I know I needs to get a clay bar or a micro sponge I'm just not sure where/how this fits into the process, what items do I need to buy

These?

https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-07240-California-Gold-System/dp/B0002U2V1Y/ref=pd_bxgy_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0002U2V1Y&pd_rd_r=BG4S92NE1D9CH9E2J67C&pd_rd_w=HVEIG&pd_rd_wg=6EheM&psc=1&refRID=BG4S92NE1D9CH9E2J67C

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CUAWJ6G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Lastly, I am buying this window cleaner -

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006SH4KU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_8?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Is it safe to use inside and out? I would imagine spray directly on outside windows and just use some microfiber towels like this - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WC5KQGE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A1RKELVBY446LD&psc=1 to clean it off? On the inside I would imagine spraying directly onto the cloth would be better.

Do I clean the outside windows after the car has been cleaned and waxed?

I understand the basic process and with this being a new car I want to be 100% I'm doing the right thing, I fully intend on washing it every other week and taking great care of it!

Thanks

Tim

I apologize in advance for this long post. None of these are "must gets", but they are what I got for my 2016 Premium forester. I'm posting this for my own future reference as well as to help some people who are wondering what accessories might be good for their new forester. I highly recommend ordering from Jackie from Annapolis Subaru @ 443-837-1422 as she can get you some good prices on the subaru accessories as well as WeatherTech products! I saved on WeatherTech shipping costs (~$20) by ordering through Jackie and the warranty is the same as if I had bought them through their website.

Please note that some of these accessory links are for my specific car year, model and configuration. I have a 2016 Premium forester without eyesight (affects the Covercraft/heatshield sunshade - they also have eyesight compatible sunshades!).

Also, I personally didn't get my windows tinted, but I think that is something that you should seriously consider doing :)

Speaker kit

Tweeter kit


WeatherTech DigitalFit floorliner (1st & 2nd row)


WeatherTech cargo/trunk liner (without bumper protector)

Weather Tech TechCare floorliner and floormat Cleaner/Protector Kit

Gorilla mud flaps

Covercraft's UVS100 sunscreen - use promo code FREESHIP

Exterior Auto Dimming Mirror w/ Approach Lighting

Luggage Compartment Cover (manual rear gate)

Rear bumper cover

Auto-Dimming Mirror with Compass and HomeLink

Rear Seat Back Protector

Two Home Depot 5 gallon homer bucket

Heatshield sunshade (driver/passenger, second row, rear windshield, sunroof) - note that their website only shows only one side window (driver/passenger), you need to call in to ask them to add the second row side window ones - on my invoice it says part #1425S-A and #1425S-B

Antigravity Batteries AG-XP-10 Multi-Function Power Supply and Jump Starter (check eBay to see if priced cheaper)

Viair 77P Portable Compressor Kit (check eBay to see if priced cheaper)

Amazon stuff:

EZ Pass Holder for VA Flex

Aux cable

Stickershield (parking stickers, etc)

Dropstop seat gap filler (driver/passenger side)

Door panel removal kit (for speaker kit install)

Two grit guards

Microfiber Drying towel

Microfiber cloths (3 pack)

Car wash shampoo

Wheel brush

Resqme (window breaker/seatbelt cutter)

Wheel cleaner

Microfiber wash mitt

Reindeer costume for Christmas

Headrest coat hanger

Road reflective triangles

Duct tape

Odor eliminator

Tire air pressure gauge

OBDII Scanner (Bluetooth)

First aid kit

Try cleaning with Invisible Glass and a balled up newspaper. In my experience IG is the best glass cleaner, and the newspaper will clean effectively without leaving lint or streaks. Microfiber cloths (even "lint free" ones) will leave microscopic lint residue that can look like scratches.

I have a '14 Fiesta ST - I've also been around quite a few of them and this is the first I've heard of windshield issues. Could be a defective part, but probably just dirty. Either way Ford has been very good about honoring the warranty. Several of the FiST forums are frequented by Ford service liaisons who are happy to help interface between the owner & dealership - might not be a bad idea to sign up and see if you can get help.

You can buy everything online, though it's easier to go to a harbor freight with a coupon if you have one. There are plenty of polishers you can buy online of course, but none are as cheap (at least with decent quality) as the harbor freight model. You can of course buy a much better polisher at your local lowes / home depot however unless you have a lot more use for it it's probably not worth it over the harbor freight one (a good polisher will cost you $200+). Everything else you can find at any auto parts store, or maybe even walmart.

Here's some links

• Polisher - http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-variable-speed-dual-action-polisher-69924.html (no matter what you want a dual action polisher, as other kinds require more skill to avoid damaging your paint)
  
• Cutting pad - http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-compoundcutting-foam-pad-60311.html
  
• Polishing pad - http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-polishing-foam-pad-60309.html
  
• Ultimate compound - http://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM?sa-no-redirect=1 (you can skip if your paint isn't bad, no bad swirl marks or scratches)
  
• Ultimate polish - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HCOE8Q/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687402&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B001O7PNNM&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1P9X3VP7TVA943BYC6C7
  
• Sanding block - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQYZ8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (if you're going to use touch up paint)
  
• Microfiber rags - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANZHG7C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Wax applicator pads - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051MYL8E/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1
  
• Duragloss - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002W0ZNIU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Color matched touch up paint (if needed) - http://www.automotivetouchup.com/
  
• Detail clay - http://smile.amazon.com/Simoniz-S57-Perfect-Finish-Detailing/dp/B0081OSRQQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1414207600&sr=1-2&keywords=clay+bar
  
• Foam applicator pads - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQZPW/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1
  
  Basic steps:
  
  

1. Start with touch ups if needed. Apply touchup paint to chips with a toothpick, in small amounts. Let it dry and do another one, build it up until it's above the level of the surrounding paint (may take many coats). Let it dry at least several days and make sure it hasn't sunk in. After it's dried for several days, use some water and the sanding block to gently sand them down flush with the rest of the paint. It will look bad, don't worry. Give the paint a few weeks to cure before moving on.
   
2. Wash the whole car with dawn dish soap and let it dry. Mix up some dish soap (maybe 1 tablespoon) with water in a spray bottle. Spray a section with the soapy water and then rub it down with the clay. This is a very mild abrasive which will remove contaminates, tar, bugs, etc and give you smooth clean paint. Wash car after.
   
3. Use the rubbing compound with the cutting pad everywhere you can. Don't try to get into tight areas or spots where you can't put the pad flush, because you'll shred the foam pad. Do the tough spots by hand with foam pads. Wash the car to remove any residue.
   
4. Repeat with the polish pad and polish, same technique as with cutting.
   
5. Apply the duragloss to a clean car by hand with the cloth applicators. Use sparingly, then wipe off with microfiber rags.
   
   You are done! In most environments the duragloss will last 6+ months. If you keep your car protected with it, you won't need to do the cutting/polishing again (or at least, not for a while).
   
   The trickiest part of the whole process is the compounding and polishing. Here are some helpful videos.
   
   

• How to use a dual action polisher - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xrse_DBaUbc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5MYqiBLIU9c
  
• How to touch up paint - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=15T08rfuTSg
  
• How to clay your car - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fqW1nzgyMNA
  
  And that's about it! It's easier if you don't do touch ups, but I figure if I'm going to put this much work in it, might as well get them. And if you do it right (with careful application and then sanding) the touch ups look nearly flawless (most look terrible because people don't bother to sand them flush).
  
  edit: two other tips...
  
  

1. If you have black rubber trim, say around the windows, mirrors, door handles, etc you either need to keep the polisher away from it or put masking tape on top of it. The rubbing compound and polisher will scuff up softer materials like rubber and it will look bad.
   
2. When working with the polisher, always turn it off while still on the surface of the car (preferably still moving it) and let it slow down before lifting it off. If you life the polisher off at full speed it might send the polishing pad flying (it's held on with sturdy velcro). When this happens the velcro is basically shot and you're going to need to get a new pad. If you make sure you always turn it off while still in contact with the car, and you don't try to put it on any sharp corners or narrow areas where you can't get good flat pressure across the whole pad, you should be able to do the entire car with a single pad.

1. What I advise you to do the following:
   
   1. Get PPF (Paint Protection Film) full front (if you can afford it)
      
   2. After the PPF, get a ceramic coating done. there’s a lot of debate of it’s actually needed or effective but I’ve seen many many cases where either side can be “correct” in the sense you can’t go wrong diy vs. getting it done professionally. There are plenty of people here who have done it themselves but please refer to r/Autodetailing if you’re interested. I choose to get mine done professionally and I don’t regret it one bit. Helps to maintain the car very easy. Here’s a pic after getting ppf and coating done: https://i.imgur.com/v3Lpn9g.jpg
      
2. I use two bucket method (LOT of tutorials on google and youtube) Here’s a list of every single thing related I purchased for doing my own car wash:
   
   1. ONR Solution
      
   2. Chemical Guys MIC_507_06 Professional Grade Premium Microfiber Towel, Gold (16 in. x 24 in.) (Pack of 6)
      
   3. 2 of Meguiar’s X2000 Water Magnet Microfiber Drying Towel, 1 Pack
      
   4. Relentless Drive Ultimate Car Wash Mitt - 2 Pack Extra Large Size - Premium Chenille Microfiber Wash Mitt - Wash Glove - Lint Free - Scratch Free
      
   5. Chemical Guys MIC_7071 Glass and Window Waffle Weave Towel, Red (24 in. x 16 in.)
      
   6. Grit Guard (2x)
      
   7. Solo 418 One-Hand Pressure Sprayer, 1-Liter, Ergonomic Grip for Gardening, Fertilizing, Cleaning & General Use Spraying
      
   8. Windshield Window Cleaner Tool, Unbreakable Extendable Long-Reach Handle, Unique Pivoting Triangular Head, 3 Washable Reusable Microfiber Bonnets, Car & Home Inside Interior Exterior Use - Lint Free
      
   9. Buy 2 5 gallons buckets at Home Depot/Lowe’s
      
3. Tesla should do it for free but some people do end up paying $25-60 but usually free. Hope this helps!

Watch this for how to clean your seats.

For the rest of the interior like the dash, steering wheel and center console you want an All Purpose Cleaner and then a dressing/protectant to put on after. I like Optimum Power Clean and here's a review I recently did on it.

I use this as a dressing to protect afterwards. Note: most dressings including this one can leave behind a slippery/greasy residue so don't put it on your steering wheel.

The windows can be cleaned with glass cleaner then coated with rain-x or similar to make water bead off of it.

Here's a post I made on cleaning the engine on my Grandma's car. and here's mine after I did it. All you need to do is cover up any sensitive stuff that you don't want to get wet like the alternator or any exposed electrical connectors...I only did the alternator for mine. Then you rinse the entire engine bay lightly with a hose to knock off any loose dirt/grease/grime. Then you soak the whole thing with degreaser...I use this from Home Depot. Make sure you get it into all the small crevices where gunk builds up. Then agitate everything with a brush. I use this one and this one. Once you've scrubbed every inch of the engine bay and worked the degreaser into a foam it's time to rinse everything off with the hose again. The whole process takes only about 10 minutes. One important thing is to not let the degreaser dry on anything. shouldn't be a problem, but don't spray it on your engine then forget about it for a few hours. After a thorough rinse you can remove the bag from over the alternator and dry the engine. If you have a compressor then use it to blow dry all the water out of all the small places it collects in. If not then soak up as much as possible with an old towel then run your engine for a few minutes or drive around for a bit to dry out the rest of it. Then you can dress your engine with something like this or this.

Hope that helps and feel free to ask more questions!

All these products can be replaced with other similar products, these are just the ones that I personally use and like.

get these towels: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X2000-Magnet-Microfiber-Drying/dp/B0009IQZFM/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1497666477&sr=1-2&keywords=meguiars+drying+towel

i know they're kinda overpriced but they're amazing and as long as you dont do something stupid like drop them and keep using them, they dont swirl your clearcoat. theyre quite absorbent too, so soft. 2 of these will dry an FR-S. The first one will be soaked, but is enough to get the beaded water off your finish, then use the 2nd one to mop up.

In terms of wax, that Meguiars Ultimate Paste Wax is amazing. Synthetic so it lasts much longer than carnauba, and ive never had a wax go on and off so easily. Dries in like 5-10 minutes, and buffs right off. I was amazed! Leaves a helluva shine too. I put it on my glass and exterior lights as well.

Been looking to detail my car, and while I am still getting my stuff along with trying to find the time to do it.. I've started to come up with a couple of questions.

1. Is it safe to use a magic eraser on the exterior / interior of my windshield + other glass on the car? Or would getting a drill adapter to polish the glass be a better option? Is there anything I can use to seal and protect the glass after cleaning it?
   
   The windshield has it's fair share of micro pitting and surface knicks (not cracks). And since a magic eraser acts as a very fine sandpaper I was thinking that it could possibly help to smooth out some of the pitting and knicks just to make these spots less noticeable when light hits it at certain angles.
   
   ​
   
   

2. What is the best product / way to darken the pillars on my doors and seal them?
   
   Currently they are not that faded, but id like to keep them up before they get to that point.
   
   ​
   
   
3. When I do detail the car I am planning to polish the car with Meguiar's M20508 Mirror Glaze Ultra Finishing Polish then use Meguiar's G18216 Ultimate Liquid Wax to protect it. What sort of pads or applicators do I need to apply this stuff?
   
   I have microfiber towels for cleaning and buffing but not sure what type of applicator pads to use.
   
   ​
   
   Also, any recommendations on a good / reliable, but repetitively inexpensive shopvac?
   Not looking for one with a bag or anything, just something for cleaning out the interior as those dam gas station vacuums are not worth 2$ for 4 minutes when you cant even get under the seats..
   
   ​
   
   Thank you for any and all feedback!

1. Buy a gallon of water from your grocery store, bring a bucket, ONR, and the softest towels you own and you can do an ONR wash in the parking lot.
   
2. I think your LSP should be a wax and a detail spray. I LOVE Meguiar's D156. It adds a nice slickness to the paint, smells like fresh laundry, and is great for that finished look. If you want to save money its the same thing as Meguiar's Quik spray wax, just the professional version.
   
3. Oh boy! If you're going to track your car friday and then enter it to the clean car on saturday, you're going to need a full wash. Is your car a dark or light color? that will determine the direction to go.

Here are a couple videos that'll help with the use of products.

clay bar

everything clay bar, compound, and polish

As for the products I use/like I personally like the Meguiar's Ultimate compound and polish. However there are a ton of other options that do as well/or better. For clay I use a range of products, but for your use I would say Chemical Guys clay bar kit would probably do what you need.

Just an FYI you don't need to invest in a dual action polisher to compound and polish, it can be done by hand and save more than a couple dollars...but it'll take a while. I'd say start with clay and see where you're at afterwords. If you still have a bunch of paint transfer then go from there. Another thing I've heard will remove paint transfer (i've never tried it personally) is a carnauba wax, so if you have some around you can give that a go first.

If you do need paint work (it probably won't be as severe as a key) but this video will probably help if you want to try and tackle it yourself.

If you like the Quik Detailer then check out their Synthetic X-Press Spray Wax. Another user on here gave me a tip to try using the X-Press in place of the QD so I'm just passing it on. Turned out to be the best last-step product I've ever used, hands down. I just spray it on and wipe off with a fresh microfiber after I dry my car and it leaves a nice wet looking mirror finish that beads water like a fresh wax. Meguiars says it renews your wax/sealant every time you use it so that makes sense. The final result is more solid and glassy (a lot like a paint sealant) instead of almost sticky or gooey like the QD can get sometimes.

A little goes a long way too. I filled up a 16oz spray bottle like 4 months ago it's probably still 3/4 full. At this rate the gallon container is going to last a few years.

If you are trying to remove smudges/scratches - pick up a high quality microfiber and I honestly use glasses lens cleaner. You need liquid for lubrication so you aren't "rubbing" the surface, but more "buffing" because the liquid is doing all the cleaning/emulsifying. Spray onto the cloth then apply to the watch

Lens cleaner works great for removing oils and such, crystal or metal doesn't seem to matter. Most lens cleaner is designed to be safe for AR coatings

​

After that, you can use some metal polish or polishing cloths to help level the area around the scratch to "remove" the scratch.

https://www.amazon.com/Cape-Cod-Polishing-Cloths-0-53oz/dp/B0017H3PIO

​

Note: that you can't really remove a scratch, but you can level the surrounding area so the scratch doesn't exist any more.

Also be very careful when you are using polishing cloths or compound - you don't want to affect any brushed areas or it will change the finish. I don't have too much issue with that personally, just need to be careful.

​

I wrote a small guide on machine polishing, you can find it here:

[Guide] The Getting Started into DA Polishing

I really like my Lake Country pads, but I've heard good things about other brands like Hex Logic. If you can get LC pads, pick up Orange(compounding), white(polishing), black(waxing).

For a compound, I always suggest
Meguiar's M105/Meguiars M205.

Always try the least aggressive method first, so polish before compound, then move to compounding if you were unsuccessful with just polishing.

I like Collinite 845 for wax, but there are plenty different brands out there to try out.

A Porter Cable is a good polisher, and it will definitely save you time while detailing.

You can't clear up a solid 2-4 hours to clean your car?

Honestly, some good car soap/shampoo, a bucket/grit gaurd, some good wax, and few cans of engine degreaser should be all you need to look pretty good.

I'd recommend this, this, and these to get started.

After you get the engine clean, and the outside cleaned and waxed, just vacuum out the inside and clean up any dust, grit, or dirt you might see. This should all take about 4 hours if you take your time.

Welcome!

Since it's turning you into a car guy...If you have the space, or even if you can borrow the space from a friend, DIY your general maintenance. It's so easy on this car.

You can do a 15-20 minute oil change without getting under the car by getting a fluid extractor like this one: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben-parts/65-liter-fluid-extractor/011885sch01a/

Maintenance schedule is here: http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26312

Approved Oils are here (but just use Mobil1 0w-40, its fine and cheap): http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4017

Filter part numbers are here: http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16502

Lots of other great info/people on golfmk7 too.

Diluted Simple Green is a good all purpose cleaner you can use. Aerospace 303 Protectant can't be beat for all the plastic surfaces and dash. Use only microfibers.

You will probably want to get Gummi Pflege to lubricate your door seals. You will want to clean them with simple green or the like BEFORE you rub the Gummi on them so that you are removing the dirt and not causing the applicator of the Gummi to get gross.

https://www.amazon.com/nextzett-91480615-Gummi-Pflege-Rubber/dp/B004B8GTQG/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1522191200&sr=1-1&keywords=gummi+pflege

For your tint, with the small triangle windows by the mirrors, if the shop you go to wants to charge you extra, put vinyl on the outside of them or remove trim to tint them, walk away, they aren't good enough. None of those things are necessary. Expect to pay $250-600 depending on the tint and the area you live in.

You can fix these if you like.

Leather filler will take care of the cracking (though yours isn't bad) and a heat gun or hair dryer can be moved over the surface to shrink the leather and tighten it up in the seat and back. I'd do that before it gets much worse. There are youtube videos about it.

Also, keep the leather cleaned and conditioned regularly! I've used many different products, and this is my favorite. Leatherique is better, but much harder to use. Lexol is also quite good, but I like the Meguiar's a little better.

Edit: Forgot to mention that any leather cleaner and conditioner you use will need some agitation to really get it worked in and doing its best work.

Here's all the stuff I use :)

• Cobra Guzzler HD Waffle Weave Drying Towel 16 x 24 inches http://www.autogeek.net/cobra-guzzler-hd-towel.html (this is a must-have)
  
• Pinnacle Signature Series II Carnauba Wax http://www.autogeek.net/pisisepawax.html (by far my favorite wax for my CW GTI)
  
• Chemical Guys Silk Shine http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-TVD10916-Sprayable-Dressing/dp/B001TI1F5Q (works great as a tire dressing and to shine up the plastics)
  
• Stoner Invisible Glass Cleaner http://www.amazon.com/Stoner-92196-6PK-Invisible-Glass-Cleaner/dp/B00BUL1KRK
  
• Nu Finish Liquid Car Polish http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BPSW7C/ (this is an amazing polish...)
  
• Viking Blue Microfiber Wax Applicator http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051MYL8E/ (cheap and they work well, even after throwing them in the wash after several times)
  
• Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Wax http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O7PNS2/ (I use this for the quick wax jobs, like inside the trunk hood/trunk/door.)
  
• Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Detailer http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RXNLK6/ (I use it for basically everything outside the car to touch up. I even clean the inside of the rims and exhaust tips with it)
  
• Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer Cleaner http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G13616-Interior-Detailer-Cleaner/ (better than Armor All IMHO and it works well. Doesn't leave any nasty grease/shiny spots)
  
• Griot's Garage Micro Fiber Wheel Wand http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004YMRIC8/ (love these)
  
• Sonax Wheel Cleaner http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UT3S6Q/ (the chemical smell is harsh, but it works wonders!)
  
• Eurow Microfiber Towels 16in x 16in 36-Pack http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0031B4YU2/ (some cheap microfibers and they hold up pretty well. I like the fact that they're yellow so you know when you should throw one out.)
  

My parents' neighbor has been watching as I borrow Mom and Dad's hose and he recently asked if I could take on his car and I was happy to oblige! Overall, the exterior was in okay shape - couple bugs, a few spots of tree sap and bird poo, as well as just a good amount of dirt and mud tucked in some spaces. I gave the car a two bucket wash, clay, Iron X treatment, Iron X, clay and topped it off with a sealant. Thanks for pointing out that I listed my procedure out of order, /u/Deadfable! Here's the deets:

Products Used:

• Meguiar's Gold Class Shampoo
  
• Optimum No Rinse (Quick Detailer dilution for claying)
  
• CarPro's Iron X for decontamination
  
• Nanoskin AutoScrub Fine Grade Sponge
  
• Meguiar's D101 (4:1 on tires, wheel wells - 10:1 on the interior)
  
• Aerospace 303 Protectant for interior dressing
  
• Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid Wax
  
• Harbor Freight DA Polisher w/ Buff & Shine 5.5" red pad
  
• Wheel Woolies
  
• Solo Horton Brushes
  
• Other assorted brushes
  
• Microfiber towels from The Rag Company
  

• 0000 Steel Wool from Home Depot (used with QD for the exhaust tips)
  

• Optimum Opti-Bond Tire Gel applied via foam block
  
• Stoner's Invisible Glass
  
  Overall a fun job! Got rewarded with a hearty lunch of sausage and peppers on Italian bread. Happy detailer!!

For things like wiping down dust / pollen, it's best never to touch your car when you could do a full wash. I had a black camry and I would wipe it down daily from all the pollen, and it became scratched up within a month... so I had to buy more polishing gear (and now it's 10 years later and I run a detailing company). So if your car gets dusty, wait until you can do a proper wash. Don't cut corners as it will result in swirls.

Really the kit you keep in your car should be more for fixing bird poop emergencies. You'll see why after you have to use your nice microfiber to clean up fresh bird shit. Bottle of water and microfibers in a tupperware. keep a bottle of spray wax for following up


I go through a lot of spray wax on my blue car. I save all my used spray bottles (spray wax, glass cleaner, etc) and started refilling it from a gallon-size detailing supplies, saves me money as I like to detail my car often and go through a lot of product: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D15601-Synthetic-X-Press-Spray/dp/B005JPJMI2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497589491&sr=8-1&keywords=express%2Bspray%2Bwax&th=1

Meguiar's last-touch is a good choice too: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D15501-Touch-Spray-Detailer/dp/B0006SH4NC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497589657&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiar%27s+last+touch

The first thing I would try is this:

Meguiar's Ultimate Compound

Meguiar's X3070 Soft Foam 4" Applicator Pads

Meguiar's X2020 Supreme Shine Microfiber Towels

All 3 of those together is under $20 (need to spend $25 since one is an add on item). This stuff is amazing for scratches and paint in general. While it won't make your car showroom ready, it will make it look much better and is totally worth the $20.

Essentially what you do is first make sure the area is clean, then apply the compound to the pad and rub the compound on your car using circular motions. After you do that for a minute or two, use the towel to remove the compound form the car.

I had a tiny spot on my hood that I left about 5 years ago thats slowly progressed from a dot to circle about an inch wide. I kept saying I was going to find a new hood from the junk yard, but I have yet to find one in good condition & the right color. I should've taken care of it before it grew.

Touch up paint is what you want, I've used that in other areas in the past. Focus your sanding right where its rusted only, try not to sand past it thinking you can blend the paint in. That's only possible if you use a full spray setup and respray the entire area over.

The trouble with touch up is it will never match or look original. So do it while its small to minimize the impact. Check with your dealer to see if they sell a small jar or pen of original factory paint in your color -- if not many places sell it online (color matched / mixed). They should give you a jar of color plus a jar of clear, and you may need to buy your own sandpaper and polish. 3M sells a small sandpaper kit like this: link. Heres the polish I have: link. That will take out any sanding marks after.

First of all, do NOT submerge the hard drive or even soak it because it is not airtight or watertight but has some tiny holes that can let in liquids. Keep the hard drive and any optical drives dry, and just wipe off their exteriors with a damp paper towel.

To clean the case and electronics, you can use
aerosol electronic parts cleaner that's rated as safe for all plastics, something like THIS (available at hardware stores, auto parts stores, and even Walmart). Do not use other chemicals, like brake parts cleaner, which can dissolve plastics. Hold circuit boards and even the case at slight angles so the liquid will run off and not pool. Spray into the sockets -- DIMMs, PCI-E, USB. Let everything dry very, very thoroughly before applying power again, at least 24 hours. A car parked in the sun with the windows only slightly opened can bake everything at over 100-120 degrees F. Take precautions against generating static electricity, i.e., put the motherboard into a metallic bag (not on it -- those bags are usually anti-static only inside), but to let moisture escape, don't seal it.

Like other mentioned, get the wheel woolies to keep the barrels clean.

​

Unless the car is just going to sit in your garage and polished with a diaper then I wouldn't spend a bunch of money/time on it. Get one of the popular brake dust cleaners(like Sonax), do a good clean, maybe throw a cheap coat of wax on the inside barrel with whatever you have laying around, keep them clean with the woolies and then just go enjoy the car.

I was also a beginner at the beginning of the year. I went out and bought [Meguiars 105] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B003LMGDHI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496750162&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+105), and [Meguiars 205] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B003LMJP4Q/ref=pd_sim_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003LMJP4Q&pd_rd_r=YK6JBJ416NKY6325PPQG&pd_rd_w=WZ6u4&pd_rd_wg=LD9ed&psc=1&refRID=YK6JBJ416NKY6325PPQG), a [chicago electric DA from harbor freight] (https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-57-Amp-Heavy-Duty-Dual-Action-Variable-Speed-Polisher-62862.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiODkwMjE0MTgiLCJza3UiOiI2Mjg2MiIsImlzIjoiNDkuOTkiLCJwcm9kdWN0X2lk%0D%0AIjoiMTE0NDYifQ%3D%3D%0D%0A), and ordered [orange and white hex logic pads from amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-BUFX-102-HEX5-Hex-Logic-Medium-Heavy/dp/B0040MI9H0/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496750285&sr=1-1&keywords=hex+logic+pads). This will be a good start. Get these things, should cost between 120 and 150 for all of it depending on where you buy, and that DA goes on sale quite often, looks like it's currently down to 49.99, so now would be the time to buy. I started off doing my Formula and then did my Sierra, and now have had a few other people come to me for correction and have a pretty good grasp on what I'm doing.

1. Watch tutorials by Junkman2000 on youtube.
   
2. Use the right size pads for your backing plate. The DA listed above comes with a 6" flimsy backing plate, and you should replace it with a 5" so it is smaller and easier to work with. Mark your backing plate as well, so if you push too hard, you'll see it stop spinning. Good for figuring out how much force you SHOULD be using.
   
3. Take your time, and work at it slowly, you will have results.

Newbie here

Someone please recommend an inexpensive and easy to apply sealer. Preferable one available on amazon.

Also - are there any instructional videos on using Nanoskin sponge?

EDIT:
My thoughts were to wash with 2 bucket method, clean up the paint using the nanoskin sponge and then seal it in to give it protection for the coming summer months.

Would any of these work as a sealer? Which one is the best in giving me long term protection? Easiest to apply?
Also - can I use these towels ? Or are they a bad idea?

Meguiar's M21 Mirror Glaze Synthetic Sealant 2.0

Meguiar's M20 Mirror Glaze Polymer Sealant

Meguiars G18216 Ultimate Liquid Wax

I typed up a reply but it seems to have disappeared. Sorry if this is a repost.

It could be anything from trash in the button to the button falling off of the circuit board or a shorted trace. Without seeing the innards, it's really hard to say.

HOWEVER, I've fixed an amazing amount of gear simply by spraying it with contact cleaner.

Take the battery out, get as close as you can to the board, if that's not possible, just spray around the edges of the button from the outside, some cleaner should get in there.

As you're spraying liberally, click the button a ton of times. Something like 50 presses. Give it a minute or two to let the cleaner evaporate (shouldn't take long) and then power it back up and give it a shot.

There's a good chance this will do the trick.

Let me know if it works :)

It's easy to get caught up in all of the information on the internet about detailing. My advice would be to keep it simple. The goal is to keep it clean and prevent swirl marks. Go check out AMMO NYC on YouTube and watch some of Larrys videos. 90% of detailing is a simple concept, prevent dirt or grit from being rubbed again your paint. Foam cannons, 2 bucket washes, air drying, etc. the purpose for all of this is to get as much dirt off without rubbing it into your paint. I bet most of the guys on this sub could achieve great results using the cheapest Walmart products because many have a good understanding of decontamination and technique. The reason we all cringe when we see automatic washes, brushes at self serve washes, squeegees on paint is because it goes again the basic principal of don't rub shit into your paint.

Once you get this principle down you can venture into the money pit that is auto detailing products to achieve even better results.

One thing I would add to your cart is Megs D156, it has a ton of uses and works great as a drying aid.

Meguiar's D15601 Synthetic X-Press Spray Wax - 1 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005JPJMI2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_2vROybTQWAZC2

I have a similar car (02 540i M Package) and most likely similar leather.

I've said this in another thread a while back but I tried at least four different cleaners/conditioners from my local auto stores and found Meguiars Gold to work the best.

I used that in combination with a soft bristle nail cleaner. I guess a toothbrush would work well too. This spray is cheap enough to warrant a try I guess.

My seats are light grey but where almost brownish when I bought her from the dirt and grim. I like meguiars over the others I used because it was a thicker consistency and "ran" less. It also sprayed as a light blue color and would turn brown with grime as I worked it into the leather with the brush.

Check out Larry from Ammo on youtube he had a good video about cleaning leather that might be worth watching.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCYsa8SOy3TkoxI5D17s1u-w

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Gold-Class-Leather-Spray/dp/B0002V9IFU

Link to old post I'm referring to.
https://www.reddit.com/r/AutoDetailing/comments/2491vn/best_all_around_leather_cleanerconditioner_combo/

Good luck

Sounds like you are at a good starting point!

1. Simple Green works as well. Some people on the sub uses Simple Green or Zeps. Make sure to dilute it and you should be good.
   
   
2. A lot of people here prefer Stoner's Invisible Glass. Rain-X should work though.
   
   
3. Sounds like you need two buckets and a grit guard to go with your Meguiar's car wash shampoo. You may also want to invest in some quality microfiber towels. The Rag Company has a good selection with Eagle Edgeless being a very versatile towel.

The free way to perhaps help would be to clean your gaskets along the doors/hood/ and windows as well as their mating surfaces with just warm soapy water and rinsing them off. You could also buy a quality water-based gasket conditioner to treat them with after cleaning them to counteract any drying out with something like this or this!

Rail dust from transport is very common on new cars and may or may not shot up as small orange specs. It can be removed with a clay bar as suggested, but whenever possible it's best to avoid physical contact with the paint. So in this case a chemical decon such as IronX would be your best bet. And a bonus, it has a unique smell.

yep i use a rotary buffer to buff, then [NuFinish] (http://www.amazon.com/Nu-Finish-Liquid-Car-Polish/dp/B000BPSW7C/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1408709206&sr=1-1&keywords=nu+finish) to polish. I'm sure any good polish will work, but that's what i use. and i messed up my comment above. You buff, THEN polish.

Also, if you don't have a spray gun, you can use a 2k bomb clear can not be found in stores. it's does better than a normal spray can of clear coat. a normal spray can probably wouldn't look too bad, but the 2k stuff will do better. the 2k can has a hardener that makes the lens much more UV resistant to fading. Since you seem like you are going to try this: let the clear coats sit and dry a day, then run that over with a 2k sandpaper before you buff then polish it.

One of my favorite CAH moments was when the black card was "after the earthquake, Sean Penn brought___ to the people of Haiti"
The card I put was Sean Penn, and everybody was like " well I can't argue with that, and I won XD.

I pick either this http://amzn.com/B0010XUU9M

or this http://amzn.com/B0017H3PIO

Beautiful colored Subie. I use a spray on sealant by Meguiars to keep my headlights from fading, lasts well over a year.

Also, this stuff called gummi pflege stift is great for restoring and protecting old rubber door seals:

nextzett 91480615 'Gummi Pflege Stift' Rubber Care Stick - 3.4 fl. oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004B8GTQG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_r1WIAbZ52QG3J

i think those scratches will come out. they dont seem so bad. you can confirm this by running your nail around them and seeing if it catches your fingernail. youll be better off if they dont really catch.

i think i would go with this car kit from meguiars

as well as ultimate compound

and some polish

i would then wash the car, clay the car, scratchx the scratches, plastx the headlights, compound the car, polish the car, then wax the car.

that will definitely do you. if you have more money, check out a bunch of the sidebar lists for more stuff. maximus's pretty much has it all.

edit: and maybe a couple of these mf applicators. i think they are easier to use and spread the product and work it in really well.

Thanks! I'll answer your questions with some depth.

1. The maille is actually the most affordable flat ring I could find - it's the 44" haubergeon from GDFB. I got it through Kult of Athena here: http://kultofathena.com/product.asp?item=AB2462. The maille is gorgeous, it stuns people when they see it up close.
   
   

• Couple of fair warnings - I am only 5'6" and 140 lbs. so I am on the small side. Maille is interesting in that it form-fits as the rings space themselves closely. So this could fit someone slightly larger than me, but if you're big I would advise giving yourself some space.
  
  
• Next warning - the maille comes absolutely drenched in nasty oil. While it prevents rust, it will soil your clothes. I put the maille in a little bit of soapy water in a bucket, sloshed it around, and dried off just to remove some of that excess oil. But the shirt I wear is 100% dedicated to the maille as it's now quite nasty looking. Even the pants got really nasty which made me pretty sad. So buy a shirt or gambeson to use solely with your maille.
  
  
• Final warning - this stuff is heavy. The shirt weighs 19 pounds. I mean it genuinely feels dense when you pick it up. That said, when it's on you it distributes the weight fairly well. Enough that I can jump around and stuff. But god, what a pain on the shoulders. You may consider padding your shoulders if you intend to wear it for hours on end. And be prepared to test your endurance. That weight will catch up with you after a few hours.
  
  

2. The boots are a now discontinued Slavic design from Armstreet, custom to my measurements. I highly recommend their garb department! Everything I've ever got from them has been nothing short of amazing. I've used these boots heavily for 2 years and they look almost new. All I use is a bit of Bickmore leather lotion every 6 - 12 months and make sure to wipe the boots down when you get home from an event.
   
   
3. The garb is all purchased. The shirt is a linen piece by GDFB from Kult of Athena. Great quality, but it looks like a modern Indian shirt if you don't cover it up.
   
   Pants are the Flax Norman trousers from Armstreet in wine red. Custom made to my size, beautiful through and through.
   
   The mantle is actually the first piece of costume I ever bought. It's a leather hood from the Colorado Renaissance Festival. I get a lot of compliments for it!
   
   
4. I'll definitely see about shooting some photos. Right now all my stuff is dirty and needs washed though. It's nothing special - suit up in your soft kit from head to toe, boots included. Then put on the chainmail according to this video. Once the maille is on, belt it tight enough that it takes some of the weight off your shoulders. Then put on the baldric, attach the sword. Put the hood on and put the gauntlets on. Then the helmet. Et VOILA!
   
   There's no pointing of armor here, no padding, nothing special. I am looking to get some steel demi-greaves for my upper legs and knees. I got one too many wooden swords to the patella when fighting the kids. And I think a little more steel would really up the 'knight' look.
   
   Let me know if you have any other specific questions, happy to answer!

I agree with /u/Pinkman2012. Don't get the Eagle One stuff though. I've used it in the past, and at least for me, it was weirdly hard to remove. I REALLY like D156. That stuff is fantastic. Save some money and get the gallon. Once you use it once, you'll use it a LOT because of how great it is.

http://amzn.com/B005JPJMI2

I've yet to use it. I have a bottle waiting to try but I've had a few ppl tell me about it. I actually used to use Meguiars D156 as a drying aide everytime I washed & it just didn't feel like it did anything. I'm sure it did, but I never got the feeling it was adding any protection or longevity to my wax job.

Maybe someone else will chime in but it seems like some ppl are using these ceramic sprays as their only form of wax/protection. So to me if that's the case then it should definitely be an added benefit to apply over top of Collinite.

Look up some vids on YouTube. There are plenty.

Only hand wash, all the time, lovingly, with microfiber everything. It's going to be your new hobby, and on a car this size, takes less time than you would think to do it right.

Here is my amazon list, a lot of stuff has subscribe and save deals, everything Chemical Guys has been top notch.

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_493-Microfiber-Scratch-Free/dp/B003TTL0TE/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225930&sr=8-10&keywords=chemical+guys

http://www.amazon.com/303-30520-Convertible-Fabric-Cleaning/dp/B000A8JNF0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226066&sr=8-1&keywords=303+aerospace+protectant+convertible

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_506_12-Professional-Microfiber/dp/B00A8MZ7IA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225930&sr=8-3&keywords=chemical+guys

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-CWS_301-Citrus-Concentrated/dp/B004K9KETY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225930&sr=8-6&keywords=chemical+guys

http://www.amazon.com/Collinite-Liquid-Insulator-Wax-845/dp/B000JK2D06/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225985&sr=8-1&keywords=collinite+insulator+wax OR http://www.amazon.com/Collinite-No-Super-Doublecoat-Auto/dp/B000AP8DZY/ref=pd_sbs_263_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=51Nde%2B7iakL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0KRY8VA4QS2RZE3XG1R5

http://www.amazon.com/Viking-862400-Blue-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B0051MYL8E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226014&sr=8-2&keywords=microfiber+applicator

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-TVD_109_16-Sprayable-Dressing/dp/B001TI1F5Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226032&sr=8-3&keywords=chemical+guys+tire+shine

http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-155700-Wheel-Brush/dp/B001GJ3DZS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226178&sr=8-1&keywords=tire+brush

i dont cut my crease very often but i usually do that with a more precise set of tools like an angle brush for the cut and a pencil brush to blend out the cut. when i say crease work, i mean i load up the "slopes" of the tip and stuff it in the crease to define it more, moving it from side to side in the orbital socket, then use circular motions to blend/diffuse the color. with round blending brushes or fatter ones i dont trust them to do the applying a defining color part and just use them to blow out product to my liking.

i find that softness doesnt affect laydown. denseness and hair texture does. i've never played with the stila window palettes, but I use mac which everyone likes to cry about how hard pressed they are so it guess its equivalent? I just tap my brush several times in the pan and roll the brush around to coat it if i find that i want more product.

i do use the Z-8 for powder! it's meant to be a bigger cheek brush, and is about one finger width (for me) smaller than the k002. s105 is actually really skinny if you keep it compressed in a guard or when you first get it out of the package (like most brushes haha). im actually kind of annoyed that the Z-8 is smaller but more expensive, so it's less "worth it" for the money.... but its prettier :/ here's chart on the specs of it 1

i dont even own a alcohol based cleaner and i dont think i would use one ever :/ i switch and wipe down i use these which are cheap as shit but massive so i cut them down to half of a face towel size and hem the edges. for cleaning my brushes i use a diluted kind-of-expensive gel face wash that i dont really use anymore since i found a better one, but I couldnt be bothered to get rid of it and would feel guilty throwing out. it was fine for my face, imo non stripping, so i watered it down to reduce lather but still foam up a bit (i like bubbles as an indicator) and use it to clean my brushes because it removed even foundation well. its the philosophy purity gel cleanser. lots of people use baby shampoo. i've heard the beauty blender solid is fantastic but i've never used it

I don't think that is brake dust, it looks like anti-seize to me. Some old school mechanics use it on lug nuts so they are easier to remove, but it sure looks like they used a ton of it. If that is the case I'd pull the wheel, clean the lugs, let them dry and retorque the wheels.

As far as cleaning of the wheels, I'd give a go at Sonax FE or I think an Iron-X would do it as well paired with a light brush. A lot of the vendors sell lug brushes.

It looks more like sweat than scratches from the pic. Have you tried a small dab on water on the microfibre cloth?

I had the same on mine after a mate who sweats like Niagara Falls used mine. I noticed similar "marks" on the lenses the next day. A dab of water got them off.

I've heard of people using this for scratches with success but I personally have never needed it.

https://www.amazon.com/NOVUS-7136-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UD0GIG/

Finally I use these to protect the lenses. They don't impact the image in any noticeable manner if applied correctly. The Rift lenses are curved so these are the only ones I have seen that actually fit. The 48mm are the ones to get that fit

https://www.amazon.com/Healingshield-Watch-Protector-Guard-1-65in/dp/B00SJ22CY8

Clean your windshield thoroughly. Get some glass cleaner that doesn't have any harsh chemicals in it. I personally use Invisible Glass:

Invisible Glass Premium Glass Cleaner - 19 oz, 91164 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007OWD2M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bAnAzbV5C5N9J.

Don't get the one that has the rain repellant. Spray it on, clean it well with a microfiber. Once you do that I spray some clay bar lube or soapy water (water+dawn) on the windshield and go at it with a clay bar. After claying the whole windshield, I splash some water on it and go at it with the glass cleaner again and dry the windshield. As another said, I apply car was onto the windshield, let it cure, buff it off. Try this and it might stop squeaking since you already tried changing wiper blades. Also, make sure to clean the wipers with glass cleaner too.

haha I always love parking next to another GTI. Even better when I return to my car to find another one parked next to it :]

I also recommend some Nevr Dull to help keep your exhaust tips shiny https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-One-1035605-Nevr-Dull-Wadding/dp/B000CNBI1A :P

Not a direct solution to your issue, but I bought a little wand made for cleaning glass. I spray invisible glass on it and then just rub away. Doesn't make the spray any more effective but it makes the manual labor part a whole lot less painful and time consuming.

I use this: http://www.amazon.com/Stoner-95161-Invisible-Glass-Reach/dp/B0017K69MA/

Also, while keeping the window all the way open isn't always an option, I sometimes just roll it down an inch. Aerodynamics of the car seem to just pull the vapor right out that little crack when I'm actually moving. And not much cold air gets in (not enough to overpower my heat anyway).

Another hopefully helpful fact: the heat in our car works by blowing air over a coil that your engine coolant flows through. Feel free to blast the heat and have it intake outside air. Outside air is dry and all you're really doing is keeping your engine cooler.

If you're using the quik wax, you might as well just go get a gallon of Meguiars Synthetic Express Spray Wax. It's a great quick wax, drying aid, door jamb wipe, and you can use it on plastic and rubber without worry as well. Google some videos. I think Auto Fetish has some vids about how useful it can be for off-label uses.

Meguiar's D15601 Synthetic X-Press Spray Wax - 1 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005JPJMI2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Z0Uzzb9KMWRYJ

And to your original question-yeah, spray waxes are good for a finishing shine and a bit of temporary protection.

An air compressor works great for cleaning the dust out. Check out the little electric blowers if you don't have a full-on compressor. I've been using one for over 5 years now and it works great.

For cleaning the exterior, Novus makes great plastic cleaning products.

Awesome! You definitely helped. One final question if it's ok. Will the following steps (in order) be good for a first time wash/detail?

1. Wash the car with this soap.
   
   
2. Scrub with these
   
   
3. Dry off with this
   
   
4. Decontaminate with [this]
   (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CUAWJ6G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER), while using this as the lube for it?

1. I use Meguiar's Gold Class 3 in 1 Leather Cleaner + Conditioner + Protectant. I got it at Walmart. Couldn't find link for Amazon, but this is what I used before, just doesn't have the protectant in it.
   
   
2. I use Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer. Since you don't want that "greasy" look and feel make sure you don't get the Meguiar's Ultimate Interior Detailer - I bought that once and I still have it, just not good, smells kind of funky too. After you use Quik Interior Detailer, just like lanmansa said, put some 303 Aerospace on it to protect the vinyl, plastic, etc. It has a matte finish, no greasy look or feel.
   
   
3. Brushes - I bought this make up brush at icing, it's called "Expert Brush". I might get shot down for this, but it works good. I don't really use it unless I have to.
   
   
4. I bought these. They're pack of 50 for $20. I only use them for interior or engine bay. However, DO NOT use them on your paint.
   
   
5. I don't have a steam machine, but lanmansa posted a good link referring Larry.
   
   Hope this helps :)
   
   Edit: If some things are really tough to remove, use diluted isopropyl alcohol down to 10-20%. Should be able to get rid of anything you encounter that isn't getting cleaned or removed.
   
   Edit2: Fixed brackets for links.

Am I on the right track? I am currently looking for all the products I need to completely detail my car. I know there is no way I could purchase all of these at once, so I am planning on purchasing the major ones first and adding the others over time. I have spent almost two weeks researching on everything I need to do. There is so much information and so many opinions that it is hard to find a definitive answer on what I need.

> Wheel

Wheel soap:

• Meguiar's Non-Acid Wheel & Tire Cleaner D143
  
  Wheel cleaner:
  
  
• Sonax Wheel Cleaner Plus
  
  Tire dressing:
  
  
• Optimum Opti-Bond Tire Gel
  
  Wheel wax:
  
  
• Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax #845
  
  > Paint
  
  Paint soap:
  
  
• Meguiar's Gold Class Car Wash Shampoo & Conditioner
  
  Paint soap addition:
  
  
• Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine
  
  Leaf blower:
  
  
• Worx Turbine WG520
  
  Clay bar:
  
  
• YGDZ Auto Detailing Magic Claybar
  
  Dual action polisher:
  
  
• Heavy Duty Dual Action Variable Speed Polisher from Harbor Freight
  
  Backing plate:
  
  
• Astro 5" PU Velcro Backing Pad
  
  Pad:
  
  
• Lake Country 5.5" CCS Orange Polishing Pad
  
  
• Lake Country 5.5" CCS White Smart Pad
  
  
• Lake Country 5.5" CCS Black Finessing Pad
  
  Compound:
  
  
• Meguiar's M105 Mirror Glaze Ultra-Cut Compound
  
  Polish:
  
  
• Meguiar's M205 Mirror Glaze Ultra Finishing Polish
  
  Sealant/wax:
  
  
• Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax #845
  
  > Interior
  
  Carpet cleaner:
  
  
• Adam's Carpet & Upholstery Cleaner
  
  Dashboard cleaner:
  
  
• Nextzett Cockpit Premium or Meguiar's Ultimate Interior Detailer
  
  Leather cleaner:
  
  
• Nextzett Cockpit Premium or Meguiar's Ultimate Interior Detailer
  
  Leather conditioner:
  
  
• Lexol Leather Deep Conditioner
  
  Glass cleaner:
  
  
• Rain-X Glass Cleaner
  
  There are a bunch of other tools not listed here, but the ones listed above are the areas I am most concerned about.
  
  > Other Concerns
  
  I am still anxious about spraying water in my engine bay, so I decided to use a spray bottle with soap and water and a microfiber towel to wipe down the engine bay while it is still decently clean. Can I use diluted Meguiar's D143 or will I have to purchase Meguiar's D101 instead? Can the Optimum Tire Gel be used on the black plastics of the engine bay, as well as the other black trims of my car?
  
  I want to protect my interior, in addition to cleaning it. I am very confused on what product I need to use to protect my dashboard from the sun. The same goes for the leather seats, where the creases are forming. I have been using a conditioner (although I am unsure of the exact name) to slow down the crease formation. Should I use the same product for both the dashboard and leather seats (with Lexol Conditioner on top of that)? I have heard of Leatherique Leather Rejuvenator/Prestine Clean, but I am unsure of when I should use that.

I don't get paid by these guys at all, but whatever the hell this stuff is, along with a microfiber towel, is by far the best glass cleaner I've ever found. I literally gave up on trying to clean my windshield for years, someone suggested this stuff to me and it's the only thing I've ever been able to use to get a legit streak free clean windshield.

https://www.amazon.com/Invisible-Glass-Premium-Cleaner-91164/dp/B0007OWD2M/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1521003421&sr=8-7&keywords=glass+cleaner&dpID=417hWzZ4qyL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

A few simple ones: No eating in the car. No Drinking in the car. No smoking in the car. Empty all clutter from the car when you leave, everytime.

As far as waxing goes, it depends on the wax you use and where you live. The closer to the equator you live the more you should wax. If you live near salt water you should wash more frequently. I have have good luck with a product called Nu Finish. I apply it about every 4 months, but I live in South Florida. Also, get an orbital buffer. They are cheap and save a LOT of elbow grease when buffing.

Armor-all or another plastic protectant is a must on the interior. Rain-X is nice too but not needed for actual care.

First, you should check /r/autodetailing

There's lots of options and everyone will have their favorites based on experience. One thing's for sure though, stop wiping down with ONLY water as that is probably making things worse other than getting some dirt and grime off. It makes the leather dry and prone to even more cracks. You need some sort of leather-specific PH-balanced cleaner and a conditioner to follow it.

My favorite value option that's easily sourced from your local Advance Auto/AutoZone is Lexol. Amazon has a kit that's pretty cheap for you to see if you like the results:
http://www.amazon.com/Lexol-907-Leather-Care-Kit/dp/B005H7DRQA

Gliptone is also another well-liked value option:
http://www.amazon.com/Gliptone-Leather-Care-Combination-Kit/dp/B003VV423G

There are other higher end brands like Leatherique and Leather Master, but the results just didn't feel it was worth the price difference.

As for the dashboard, avoid junk like Armor All. Go with something like Einszett Cockpit Premium: http://www.amazon.com/einszett-Cockpit-Premium-16-9-fl/dp/B0002Z2MZ4

Yup, Ultimate Polish will work just fine, but if you're going off Amazon anyway I'd go with M205. It's basically the pro version of UP and has slightly more cut but finishes extremely well.

And yeah, you'll need to rewax after, but make sure you're using an IPA spray first to remove the oils so it bonds well! Which Youtube video watch before, btw?

Hello fellow Camaro, I like einszett products for my interior. link 1 link 2

I drive my car year round and these products work really well. The deep cleaner is of course the stronger of the two, but I've had good luck with it on my door sill plastic and my weathertech floor mats.

Your list looks good, but is lacking a few item IMO:

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3002-Microfiber-Wash-Mitt/dp/B000RXKR6M/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1396913798&sr=1-1&keywords=microfiber+wash+mitt The mitt you listed should be fine, but I use these. I have 3 of them and it's good to have more than one lying around in case one gets too dirty during the wash. I like to use a different one for the bottom of my car anyway.

I'd get at least one more pack of those Chemical Guys microfiber towels. The more the better.

I use Sonax Full Effect Wheel Cleaner. http://www.amazon.com/Sonax-230200-755-Wheel-Cleaner/dp/B003UT3S6Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1396914006&sr=1-1&keywords=sonax+full+effect+wheel+cleaner It's a bit pricey but it's very effective at removing brake dust.

For applying the wax, you'll need an applicator pad http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3070-Soft-Foam-Applicator/dp/B0009IQZPW/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1396914054&sr=1-1&keywords=foam+applicator+pad

I use this guy for everyday wiping. When I feel ambitious I will also use the invisible glass cleaner to really clear it up, but this tool makes it real easy to clear the film. I was doing it every day, but haven't had to in the 1 week after using the glass cleaner.

http://www.amazon.com/Stoner-95161-Invisible-Glass-Reach/dp/B0017K69MA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1422292055&sr=8-4&keywords=invisible+glass

Very Important:

• Horsehair Brush
  
• Some sort of cleaner (Lexol)
  
• Some sort of conditioner (Lexol, Bick4)
  
  Optional:
  
  
• Buffing Rag - could also just use old socks or cotton shirts. Make sure whatever you use is 100% cotton since nylon can scratch
  
• Pigmented Cream Polish - Can be used to recolor damaged spots and build a patina. WILL DARKEN YOUR SHOES.
  
• Cuir Gras - My preferred conditioner for greasy leather (like CXL). Not necessary unless you want to spend the extra money over Lexol.
  
  Be sure to review the Leather Care section in the wiki to get a good overview of products and care techniques.

If you didn’t ask for oem parts you definitely got an aftermarket windshield. That shouldn’t matter though, even an aftermarket windshield should be good enough you can see out of it.

On one of my cars I had a greasy film on the inside of the windshield when I bought it. I tried everything to get rid of it and nothing worked until I bought a special tool like this one. The tool cleaned it great.

Definitely give Sonax Full Effect Wheel Cleaner a try. I have had amazing success with this stuff. It will turn from green to red as it is working and breaking down iron particles and break dust.


Also, you can give either CarPro's Iron-X or TRIX (Tar and Iron Remover) a try.

Honestly, by looking at the picture, the Sonax should clean up the break dust and those streaks. Just let it sit on the wheel for a couple minutes and agitate it with a brush. I use this brush to get in behind the spokes as well.

As far as keeping brake dust from accumulating as quick, I'm not sure if there's really a remedy. You can wax your rims, there is stuff out there specifically made for rims, but I've never used it, so I'll let someone with experience speak on that. However, I read the other day someone used Collinite #845 Insulator Wax on their rims (same wax I use). I may give this a try next time I wash the car and see if it helps control the brake dust.

> I also learned how to lacquer the pens, I use a spray lacquer and what I like to call my spray box, I use this so the spay doesn’t go everywhere. Before I did this I sanded them starting with 120 grit paper and going up to 1000 grit using the sand paper, after that I used some sponge backed pads which started at 1500 grit and went up to 12000 grit. I am never sure how long I should be sanding them though.

See if you can get the Novus plastic polish https://www.amazon.com/Novus-7136-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UD0GIG is the US amazon link. With what you describe on sanding process, you can then move to the Novus and have very good looking pens without a lacquer layer. I also think you get better overall results.

For your question. Sand each grit until you can't see scratches from the previous grit. If you move on and see a bigger scratch than the previous, back up a level and go until it is removed. Off of the lathe you would switch directions each time, on the lathe you just have to keep an eye on it. Once you get things on a solid base, progressive grits go quickly.

> To get rid of tool marks in the blank go over the piece multiple times not adjusting the positioning of the tool, the nature of the lathe is that it spins and when you move the tool you will get trenches in the material, when you go over it multiple times you end up lathing away the ridges.

If you are getting ridges, either your tool isn't set up properly, or your feed speed is wrong. You should see tool marks, but not ridges. If you have a pic of the blank in the lathe as you work it, that would be helpful.

> And lastly, I need to find something I can put up the pen barrel so that I can sand or lathe down the whole length, so far my search has been fruitless.

Make it. If you have a standard internal thread, make what you need to thread the pen blank on to work on it.

That's a lot of info to your questions. But finally I want to say good job. You really are getting the hang of this, and it is showing.

This is what I've been using for a few years. I've used it safely on vintage and modern pens, of course never using it on things like hard rubber pens. Only need to use a very small amount of product, and you can probably get by with the least aggressive polish (#2) for these scratches. Bonus points for trying it out on an old beat-up pen or other plastic object before using on your good pen.

I love it. Spray it on, rub it in with my spoke brush, and power wash it off. The wheels come out perfectly clean.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004UM6DLE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482198400&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=carpro+iron+x&dpPl=1&dpID=31Fqwzjw6oL&ref=plSrch

> clean the smudges and lines on the screen

Not sure if you ever got an answer, but I use this for my mobile and tablet:

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Microfiber-Lens-Cleaning-Cloth/dp/B004PHD2YU/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2

I also find these to AMAZING at cleaning up the gunk easily: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IQZH0/ref=pe_175190_21431760_M3T1_ST1_dp_2

Yes, plenty of people including myself have done it. Purchase these and just polish them off. Your phone will end up actually looking better than new.

https://www.amazon.com/Cape-Cod-Polishing-Cloths-0-53oz/dp/B0017H3PIO

Be carefully to just polish the metal and not the glass. I used painters tape to mask off those areas. Also try and steer clear of getting the polish into ports and holes. This works for fine scratches like from case rubbing and being in pockets with abrasive debris etc , these will not work for deep scratches from dropping it etc.

I pretty sure they are aluminum maybe billet but that is a stretch. I would use Eagle One Never Dull. That shit works on everything like a charm!

Just did a hand-wash with microfiber towels, wiped the car dry, and then used a product called Nu Finish for the wax. It's like 10 dollars a bottle and is super easy to use - I poured the liquid on the damp towel I washed the car with to apply the wax, then let the wax dry to a haze, and then buffed out with a dry microfiber towel. Wash/wax took about an hour to do myself, which is worth it considering how long a the Nu-Finish stays on.

EDIT: Amazon link

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BPSW7C/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1465775620&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=Nu+Finish&dpPl=1&dpID=41TQElpWDtL&ref=plSrch

I've gotta say, that's less than encouraging. The only folks I know that regularly use both a rotary and 3M products are body shops or car dealers. And they are not generally known for being great detailers. 3M products actually kind of suck compared to more modern options.

As someone else mentioned, the Meguiar's M105 and M205 would both be good products (M105 is a first-step, more abrasive polish, M205 a finishing polish to take out any marring left by M105). You can get 8oz bottles on Amazon for about $10/ea. They're easier to work with, dust SIGNIFICANTLY less, and work better than the 3M products. Plus, you can get them in 8oz bottles vs. 32oz bottles.

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B001O7PNW8/

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B003LMJP4Q/

For the polished bezel - Cape Cod Polishing Cloth...

For the brushed parts, a set of 3M papers...

Nothing will 100% match a factory finish, but those are the easiest things for most people to do at home - and if you’re patient and work slowly/carefully you should get close.

Brushed area is harder to match, so make sure you work somewhere stable and with a steady hand using the 3M papers. One direction only...etc. Hardest part to “freehand” would probably be the circular brushing on the caseback.

They have a good selection and reasonable prices. The TTX brand controllers there are pretty good, not quite as nice as the Sony controllers but they worked with my stuff so far if you want new ones instead of used again. Try taking the controller apart though and cleaning it... http://www.instructables.com/id/Clean-Your-DualShock-Controller/?ALLSTEPS be sure to put the R2 L2 buttons back in after assembly and they will work with out having to try multiple times, they just snap back in after cleaning. Sometimes this works.

Edit:
You could also try contact cleaner with the unit unplugged, spay it into the controller port and controller plug http://www.amazon.com/CRC-05101-QD-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000CCMLD0

So Try,
Cleaning controllers, new controller, cleaning ports, and if those all fail, then its then most likely the system but they are pretty robust as others have stated

Definitely don't do that! That's a paint thinner and could end up way worse.

My first line of advice would be to go to a detailing shop and tell them you know it won't end up perfect but you'd like a quote. It shouldn't be that much since for them this would be a quick fix - it will still be somewhat noticeable but a lot less obvious.

For the DIY method you'll want

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004HCOE8Q/ref=pd_aw_fbt_auto_img_2?refRID=0J677CETDDQ5SWT21DE9

Which you can put on this

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BUFWL4C/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1419064284&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

What you'll want to do is get some water mixed with dawn dish soap in a bucket and wash the area around the scrape using a microfiber cloth.

Then let it dry.

Next you'll put some of the polish on the pad and go to town on the scrape.

This is what I'd recommend BUT I've never done it by hand so I can't accurately tell you how long it will take. I would start with maybe the first inch or two of the scrape to see how long that takes you.

As long as you're using the pad you shouldn't have the "hand marks" issue the person above mentioned. People put these pads on machines that move a lot quicker than a person would ever be able to.

i use rain-x wipers but my real secret is this stuff

http://www.amazon.com/einszett-914806-Gummi-Pflege-Rubber/dp/B004B8GTQG


it reinvigorates all rubber, from window and door seals, to wiper blades. It's awesome!

I’ve used a couple (from Lexol to Turtle Wax), but right now I really like this one! It also helps with developing a faux patina if you don’t like how light the vachetta appears at first.

I've posted my list before:

Car Wash Shampoo: Chemical Guys Maxi Suds II Amazon link

Quick Detailer: Chemical Guys High Gloss Spray Sealant & Quick Detailer Amazon Link

Wax/Sealant (every 6 months): Blackfire Pro Paint Protection (previously Blackfire Wet Diamond All Paint Protection) Amazon Link

Clay Bar (every 12 months): Simoniz S57 Perfect Finish Detailing Clay Amazon Link

Clear Plastics (head/tail lights): Plexus Plastic Cleaner & Protectant Amazon Link

Plastic/Vinyl/Rubber/Leather: 303 Aerospace Protectant Amazon Link

Door/Trunk/Frunk Seals: 303 (above) or Nextzett Gummi Pflege Rubber Conditioner Amazon Link

Glass: Stoner Invisible Glass Amazon Link


Wheels: Griot's Garage Wheel Cleaner Amazon Link

Tires: Aero Low Shine Rubber Care Amazon Link

okay so like the comment below 303 is simple and easy. I don"t use it much as its not readily available here in Toronto.

Things i do use:

For the dash board and any plastic inside the car i use:

https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05324-Protectant-24-oz/dp/B0007RDVGG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487704916&sr=8-1&keywords=mothers+interior

OR

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G13616-Interior-Detailer-Cleaner/dp/B000AMLWH8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487705281&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars%2Binterior%2Bcleaner&th=1

For the carpets i do 2 thing when i am in a hurry ill use:

https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-50572-Rubber-Cleaner/dp/B00PKE6NNY/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1487704985&sr=8-12&keywords=turtle+wax+interior+cleaner

Just spray some on the carpet and after a quick vacuum then do a good vacuum job this can take like 30 mins once you get the hang of it.

when i have time i use:

https://www.amazon.com/BISSELL-1400B-Multi-Purpose-Portable-Cleaner/dp/B0016HF5GK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487705069&sr=8-2&keywords=bissell+little+green

The second method is simple just follow the instructions it came with and this item usually goes on sale there are better ones that keep the water heated.

They also both give the car a nice smell after cleaning i don't have leather seats so i can say much about it.

as for windows there 2 steps i do as well:

I use

https://www.amazon.com/Invisible-Glass-Premium-Cleaner-91164/dp/B0007OWD2M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487705440&sr=8-2&keywords=invisible+glass

Then polish the exterior and where is no tint with

https://www.amazon.com/3M-800002242-RAIN-X-WINDSHIELD-TREATMENT-3-5/dp/B000WNED08/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1487705503&sr=8-13&keywords=rain+x+glass+cleaner

The second step is a bit tedious so if you are not comfortable stick with step 1.

The thing that also really good to have is good clothes for cleaning the more the better Micro fibre cloth's are the best.

https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Professional-Microfiber-POLISHING/dp/B0166U4PVC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487705636&sr=8-1&keywords=micro+fiber+rag+company

and for glass:

https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Microfiber-Professional-STREAK-FREE/dp/B00WC5KQGE/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1487705755&sr=8-5&keywords=rag+company+glass

After wiping the class with step one and then its dry i usually just follow up with a dry microfiber cloth to pick up any little dirt i left behind.

If i left anything behind let me know ill make a full post once summer comes around with maybe a video of sorts but there is alot of information also to r/autodetailing wiki post and sorry for the format if its not up to standards this is my first long post.

Go to Amazon and order this (I like Meg's products),

• Harbor Freight DA
  
  
• Meg's Endurance Tire Gel
  
  
• Meg's Ultimate Protectant
  
  
• Meg's Ultimate Liquid Wax
  
  
• Meg's APC
  
  
• Rag Company's Borderless Blonde
  
  
• Rag Company's Waffle Weave
  
  
• Hex Logic White Pad (3)
  
  
• Hex Logic Orange Pad (2)
  
  
• Hex Logic Red Pad (2)
  
  
• M105
  
  
• M205
  
  
• 3M Auto Tape
  
  
• Mother's Wheel Brush
  
  
• ABN Woolies
  
  
• Trim Brush
  
  
• Chem Guys Wash Mitt (2)
  
  
• Mother's Clay Bar Kit
  
  This should run you about $345 for everything and have you setup to take care of your car for a long time. You can find a 20% discount code online for harbor freight to bring the price down $55 for the DA. Go to home depot and buy a couple buckets and you will be good to go.
  
  Edit: To add, I went to Lowes and bought a cheap inline sprayer for my hose and it works fine for foaming up the vehicle, plus it only costs $5.
  
  Edit2: If you are going to downvote me please post why you don't like my recommendation.

This is great advice. The one step I'd add would be, if at all possible, to use a purpose made contact/PCB cleaning spray on the PCB before reassembly. This will safely and effectively remove any conductive deposits left from the water and drive out any remaining moisture. You may find after disassembly that the rubber membrane kept any crap from getting on the PCB, in which case you might be ok without, but you've gotten this far so....

It's not terribly expensive. Amazon is a good example. You can find the same kind of thing locally at a car parts place or maybe even a radioshack.

My local shop quoted me $300 to fix the paint and $250 to replace the plastic piece. I told them it was a lease and surprisingly they told me I should wait until I am about to turn the car in since more damage will happen. I also have $5K of lease damage insurance so even if I get dinged (ha!) for this, it will be covered by that insurance.

Being a perfectionist, I still wanted to clean things up so I turned to Amazon and bought about $40 worth of supplies:

• ACDelco WA636R Touchup Paint
  
• 1.5mm Touchup Brushes
  
• Novus 2oz Plastic Polish Kit
  
• Novus Polish Mate
  
• Meguiars ScratchX 2.0
  
  I was able to fix the damage to the plastic piece entirely, it looks as good as new. I used an ample amount of Novus 2 and 3. I wasn't expecting Novus to be able to tackle such a big scratch and I was just hoping to get rid of some minor scuffs but I was pleasantly surprised, there is a slight dip in the plastic that is visible if you are about 3 inches away and looking from an extreme angle but I don't even feel a bump anymore.
  
  I also did a few more rounds of Scratch X on the paint scratch and got rid of about 50% of it, I painted the deep chip but I didn't want to risk making it worse so it's still visible from about a foot away. I'm going to practice on another car with some filler and see if I can master the art of filling in deep chips and painting them but for now the metal under the chip is safe from rust.

Like the title says, between my final semester of college, moving and starting a new job, I haven't had the time to give my KM a good cleaning. For those interested in the process, here goes:

I started by disassembling the entire thing. The coal tray, grommets and any other removable pieces got a bath in hot water and dish soap. The stem was scrubbed with a brush soaked in the soapy water, and left to soak for a few minutes. The soap worked to loosen any built up grease and other shit inside. If you've never done this, do it, its disgusting the stuff that comes out. After the good soak, I ran water down the stem and passed some paper towels through. If you've ever cleaned a gun, its basically the same thing. The base got a good soaking in plain old hot water and was scrubbed inside with a brush and wiped clean on the outside. I don't recommend the soap on the base as its a bitch to get out.

For the actual polishing, I used Eagle One Never Dull (http://amzn.com/B000CNBI1A). Lay down a towel, grab a wad and get to work. I like to rest the bottom of the stem on my foot and spin the whole stem while I hold the wadding to it. As you work, the wadding will turn gray as it removes the tarnishing. As it gets grayer or starts falling apart, just grab some more. Once you've hit the whole thing, repeat the process but with a dry microfiber towel. At this point, you're done, or you can continue repeating the process until you're satisfied! This stuff is fairly harsh, so don't use it in a poorly vented room and I recommend washing your hands thoroughly when you're done.

Enjoy!

Ammo is a boutique brand. His products are very well made and do the job just fine, but can be a bit pricey. I save them for my personal vehicle.

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10916-Leather-Cleaner-Conditioner/dp/B0002V9IFU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413976074&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+leather+cleaner

This is what I use on leather surfaces have had no issues with it. Smells great, cleans well, and leaves behind no greasy feel. The leather feels very smooth afterwards.

The cleaning tool for anyone interested: https://www.amazon.com/Invisible-Glass-Reach-Clean-95161/dp/B0017K69MA

Great video but would have loved to see your interior windshield cleaning technique!

Me too!!!! It's so annoying. It doesn't take it all out, but I have good luck with this product.

Whoops - I purchased this guy yesterday to try it out: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0017H3PIO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

But if I end up liking it, I will get the full tin, as you say.
I guess what I've been doing when I polish is applying the polishing compound on the cloth disk, and giving up instantly as soon as I see that it is turning my pieces grey and cloudy. I'll give it a bit longer this time. Thanks for your reply! All the best.

Definitely check out /r/AutoDetailing. I use nextzett on my interior. Way better than Armorall, no greasy feel or shine and seems to keep the dust away. Wow, I sound like a shill...

Pick up some of this

It smells absolutely awful but it will remove the iron deposits in the paint and wheels and leave a cleaner surface to work with. I would clay bar the paint after as well. It sprays on clear and turns purple when it is working. Well worth the price especially since you can use it to remove brake dust from your wheels during washes.

If you're not crashing, you're not flying fast enough ;-)

For those of us who crash often into dust/dirt/sand/grass, I recommend the following:

• Bring a can of compressed air with you when you fly. This will be the first step for removing debris from your mini motors.
  
  
• I REALLY like this plastic-safe electronics cleaner, and it seems to do an excellent job of removing sand [errr, what?] from my motors after I've thoroughly sprayed them out with the compressed air. Most bearings are sealed so you won't need to worry about degrading the bearing lubricant. That being said I try to use as little spray as possible.
  
  Hope this helps!

So excited to be joining the Tesla family today (delivery in Costa Mesa this afternoon!)

I’m getting a TM3 with black interior. Does anyone know if those seats are also vegan leather, or are they real leather? Any idea if this is safe to clean the seats?

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002V9IFU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Are armorall wipes safe for the dashboard?

Hey guys, so idiot me managed to bang my watch into a table a cause it to dinged up. Luckily I found this cloth and after an hour of buffing it, the dent is almost completely gone. Really surprised it worked as I was looking at changing the bezel insert.

Thought I’d share in case anyone else has dents or scratches they’d like to remove.

Cape Cod Polish Co Metal Polishing Cloths Foil Pouch 0.53oz, Stainless Steel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017H3PIO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_Uke1CbE1Q2PSC

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UD0GIG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You may want to move to the 8oz. I haven't used this yet, but someone from r/vive said yesterday they used it to repair scratches on a delicate lens (more important for functionality than your t top). I just bought this to try on my vive that has a scratched lens. If you'd want to wait a couple days I can update you on my success!

Sure thing. This is the stuff I used. You can probably pick up something similar at Radio Shack, Best Buy or better yet a local electronics store.

I really love this stuff but it can be expensive. I finally found a great deal on it, stocked up and got 6 cans.

Walmart $3.44

Home Depot $3.54

Target $3.84

Lowes $3.98

Amazon $5.32

Advanced Auto Parts $5.49

AutoGeek $5.99
AutoGeek $4.16 ea in bulk

DetailersDomain $5.99

DetailedImage $5.99

Hi, beginner here. The dash on my '08 Sonata is looking a bit sad and faded (pic here, ignore shadows and camera artifacts), and I was hoping to clean and restore it.

Would a combination of Megs Quick Interior Detailer (which I already have), plus 303 Aerospace work well? I also have Simple Green if that's better, but not sure what dilution ratio would work well. Thanks!

This stuff is pretty good at cleaning electronic connections. Also very useful for old stereo pots

I use Meguiars Quik Interior Detailer and it does an amazing job. Plus you can buy it at Walmart, at least around me.

Edit: I always follow up with Meguiars Natural Shine on the plastic. I find it helps it not look so shitty. I hate that plastidip finish they used for the plastic.

Looks great, but speaking as someone with those rims...cleaning can be a real PITA.

If you're not already using it, Sonax makes a pretty nice product that will save you a bunch of time getting in between those grooves.

Meguiars is cheap and very effective. Smells great, too!

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10916-Leather-Cleaner-Conditioner/dp/B0002V9IFU

It looks like the rust ate through the plating so it'll take a bit of effort to make it look like new. You could use a rust remover like whink then an all purpose metal polish like eagle one never dull to make it spiffy.

This stuff should do the job. It's an amazing degreaser, and doesn't leave a mess and won't ruin your flooring. It's entirely clear.

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05101-QD-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000CCMLD0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1479920047&sr=8-2&keywords=electro+contact+cleaner

• I love clean things and I want to pickup the CX-5 branded all weather floor mats and cargo tray. Is there a better option?
  
  I have the Weather Tech mats and they're awesome.
  
  
  
• When cleaning the inside I planned to only use a microfiber cloth and/or a slightly damp with warm water microfiber. Is there a better way?
  
  I keep a microfiber towel in the glove box for quick wipe downs, but every few weeks or so, I'll use Meguiar's to clean the interior.
  
  
  
• Are there any accessories I might not know about that are must haves?
  
  I have a jump starter just in case anything went wrong! Beyond that, hmm... I'm not entirely sure. I have done some light modding to my CX-5, but nothing that are like, "OH MAN, GET THIS!"

You could try something like Novus Plastic Polish (change the .com to .de , .co.uk , or whichever you prefer using in Sweden). Honestly not sure if it will remove those fine scratches though or if even using it with a microfiber cloth would make it worse. May be worth a shot though if you don't want to pay to have a replacement shipped.

If it doesn't work/gets worse, I'd recommend mnpctech's replacement window. High quality acrylic that won't scratch nearly as easily. They do international orders via email and paypal so I'm not sure how much it would end up being for you...

My 6 has so much creek. So what I did was...

1/4th inch drip tube in the inner seal atop my doors

That worked for a bit but the squeaky noises returned.

Next I used Gummi Pflege on the inside of every single seal within the door. So what I mean is. On the ones that attach to the body, but more importantly I spread open every one on the door and put a generous coating

Lastly,

I put Sailkote all over a rag, I mean soaked it, then rubbed it all over the felt side of the upper door seal that touches the body.

This can be purchased for a lot less with some hunting. I paid 12.99 at a local marina store

You can take paint transfer off your car with some polish and an applicator pad:

Polish: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G19220-Ultimate-Polish-fluid_ounces/dp/B004HCOE8Q/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=meguiars%2Bpolish&qid=1556888366&s=gateway&sr=8-3&th=1

Applicator: https://www.amazon.com/Viking-Car-Care-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B001GJ9JV0/ref=sr_1_3?crid=TF14W8WDIISK&keywords=polish%2Bapplicator&qid=1556888486&s=gateway&sprefix=polish%2Bappl%2Caps%2C131&sr=8-3&th=1

I've used this method before, works great. Just remember to clean the area before and after, and consider adding some wax after.

The most you will probably hear here is don't use Armor All cleaners for the surfaces (do more harm than good and leave a bright sheen) and visit /r/autodetailing.

These are just items I have used personally and would recommend:
Best interior cleaner I have found is Meguiar's Interior Cleaner with some microfiber towels.

Haven't had to deal with anything for anti-fogging, but for windows I use Stoner's Invisible Glass. It's a little too good in my opinion, now I have to figure out how to fix 6 little nicks in my windshield I wouldn't have noticed otherwise...

They are awesome, also leaves a much more streak free shine than a paper towel, so after using it your windshield looks extra clean. I love it. Here's an amazon link but you can find it for the same price at any of your local auto zone/O'reilys type places

https://www.amazon.com/Invisible-Glass-Reach-Clean-95161/dp/B0017K69MA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504073111&sr=8-1&keywords=windshield+cleaner

Is this only for the windows and no paint? Do not ever use a squeegee on paint. For windows the glass is much harder than paint but still can scratch it yet this is very rare and your probably good. Have you considered a drying towel like below. Its $8 works amazing. No risk and you can use on paint.

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X2000-Magnet-Microfiber-Drying/dp/B0009IQZFM/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1413229092&sr=8-6&keywords=automotive+drying

I have had zero repairs on the top and the only maintenance I've done is to put some Gummi Pflege on the seals every 6 months ( https://www.amazon.com/nextzett-91480615-Gummi-Pflege-Rubber/dp/B004B8GTQG/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1IXM3TJ577A2&keywords=gummi+pflege+rubber+protection&qid=1563411869&s=gateway&sprefix=gummi+pf%2Caps%2C191&sr=8-1 ). The top works great and has never given me a problem. I live in Arizona and put it down A LOT.

Also one more thing. Buy this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004B8GTQG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is what they use on the rubber trim on the hardtop convertible tops on bmws. Put it all around the rubber seal on the T tops. It refreshes the rubber and prevents leaks. This shit works like a charm. brought my rubber seals back to life.

Plus one on the microfiber. I've got a couple of microfiber terry cloths that do a great job. I got mine free from shell when I filled my tank. But these are similar.

Nice ride. I myself have a 2015 Mazda 3 GT. I use Lexol for cleaning and conditiong (protecting) leather. Just use some TRC microfiber towels to clean the leather and the rest of the interior. For the dash, I just use Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer and D101 APC. It doesn't leave a shiny residue on the dash. I use those two for almost everything on the interior.

1. I'd try this brush with some Nextzett Cockpit Premium
   
2. Like Beast said, Badgeskins sells a sticker to cover that.
   
3. For the steering wheel, I'd recommend Lexol. I also use that to clean my leather seats, followed by their leather conditioner every now and then.

If you want something simple and easy to use, try Meguiar's Leather Cleaner & Conditioner. Can be found on Amazon (which I linked), or at Target/Walmart.

No, it's not as dedicated or strong in cleaning or protection as other products, but because it's a simple spray + wipe cleaner, you can easily clean/condition the entire interior within minutes.

I use it on my White Parchment Leather in my Mazda3 weekly.

I use Invisible Glass (spray instead of the aerosol version). They also have a cleaning tool that makes it easier to clean the windshield from inside https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017K69MA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hDgCDbRDM4XEV

I use Turtle Wax Ice interior detailer to clean the dashboard, rubber mats, interior door panels, other plastic parts except for the media console.

Maaaan I just got done ogling this car over at /r/Ford and now you gotta make me jelly over here...

Again, Dad just got one of these, too. We've been treating the leather with this stuff, and it's looking pretty sharp. Congrats again on the truck!!

It really depends on how deep the scratches are.

Your best bet for minimal scuffs and scratches would be a plastic polishing compound. I use Novus pretty often when I do acrylic fabrication professionally, it is fine enough not to alter the optics if you use it properly.

If the scratches are deep enough to require sanding, I would advise against it since you risk removing too much material and altering the optics irreparably. If the scratches are too deep for polishing compound, you'll have to just live with it.

They are surprisingly easy to repolish.

I use this and the watch looks brand new when I'm done. Removes scuffs as well!!!

Get a Kiwi leather care kit and some leather conditioner

• Brush off your shoes with the brush
  
  
• Use a damp sponge to wipe off any remaining dirt (if they are exceptionally dirty you can use saddle soap)
  
  
• Dry off with a rag
  
  
• Apply the leather conditioner, let dry/absorb and buff with the chimois
  
  
• Apply polish with the sponge applicator, let dry for like an hour
  
  
• Brush shoes again, then buff again with the chimois.
  
  Also it looks like your toes are starting to separate, in which case I'd use some Shoe Goo or just some super glue to readhere

Thanks again, I'll probably head down to a shoe store and try to match colors like you said.

One last question, is something like Bick 4 Leather conditioner better or worse than Lexol leather conditioner?

I do this all the time. I use Nu Finish car polish (http://www.amazon.com/Nu-Finish-Liquid-Car-Polish/dp/B000BPSW7C) it has a polymer base that can fill in small scratches and repair scuffs for it actually fills in the space of the crack with transparent plastic. It works great on minor stuff and with a good buff wheel you can get most scratches out.

There is also heavy duty version http://www.amazon.com/Nu-Finish-NFS-05-Scratch-Doctor/dp/B000AME50Y/ref=pd_sim_auto_1 have not tried it on screens though.

I use these and just throw them in the wash after:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051MYL8E

They are pretty cheap for being reusable. Honestly washing them every time is probably overkill anyway, a quick rinse would be fine.

https://www.amazon.com/nextzett-91480615-Gummi-Pflege-Rubber/dp/B004B8GTQG

This stuff is great to keep your rubber nice and supple, and does add a little "blackness"

how about the Meguiar's one?

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X2000-Magnet-Microfiber-Drying/dp/B0009IQZFM/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1405130888&sr=1-1&keywords=waffle+weave+drying+towel

$7.26 each?... any good?

BTW, I use a chamois to dry my car. One is almost as old as I am and the other one is a new synthetic one... so... anything else might be an improvement

Guy at a track day clued me into this stuff a few years back - Nevr-Dull Wadding Polish.

Removes everything without hard scrubbing, leaves a protective coating that makes it so you can wipe daily carbon buildup away with a dry rag.
Fucking amazing, all four chrome tips of my 2013 WRX are still stainless/spotless after seven years.

Pro-tip, wad the wadding up in a rag or wear gloves to apply it. The chems in that stuff will seep into your skin very easily.

>The key to keeping dust down is adding a dryer sheet while cleaning.

Yep.

I use cheapie new ones (Kroger house brand) & they turn gray pretty quickly. I also wet tumble after depriming (I like clean primer pockets & case interiors) and dry tumble with lizard litter and an occasional capful of NuFinish. After adding the polish run the tumbler 5-10 minutes before adding brass - avoids clumping.

I wet tumble after depriming to avoid running grimy cases thru my sizing dies, do all my case prep (size, trim, chamfer, flash hole uniforming rifle cases) then dry tumble to deal with the brass particles from prep.

Between Armor-All car was for wet tumbling and Nu-finish for dry, the result is shiny cases inside and out that stay bright until I get around to loading them.

Nevr-Dull works pretty good, but I agree many others, I like the patina.

Those rust spots/chips on the deadbolt, no way to get rid of those without replacing the lock.

I recently started using the Soap&Glory Peaches and Clean cleanser that is a makeup remover and it's great! It takes off eye makeup as well and it's really fast . It's also only $12 for a huge bottle.

Something that also gets all makeup off is baby oil. Use baby oil and a mircrofiber cloth like this and you will have zero problems taking anything off because the oil breaks down everything. The microfiber cloths are great too no matter what you're using, so you could use just like water and it's help a lot more. The ones I linked say they're for cars but they're just the same as other microfiber cloths, but ones marketed for cars are dirt cheap in stores for big packs.

The only problem with baby oil is you'll have to follow up with another cleanser to get the oil off. If what you're using now works for everything else but the eyes, I'd say to stick to that and use baby oil on just the eyes and rinse it off :)

Well clearly they didn't keep polishing it even though it was still being used. Because of that, with gradual use, it started to get more and more scuffed.

Someone tweet this at D-Bro and the game should be good until Season 1 starts.

I use Bick 1 cleaner and Bick 4 conditioner, nothing fancy; lexol would also work perfectly fine. I prefer the Woodlore 'Epic' trees.

I would recommend using Bickmore Bick 4 leather conditioner . Its the best stuff out there and doesn't darken leather.

X-Press spray is a magical. Think detailer spray, but it actually does something. Dries clear, so you can use it on any surface. I usually spray my car while it's still wet after washing, then just dry it off with a microfiber. Water beads off like everything was rain-x'ed


https://www.amazon.com/MEGUIARS-D15601-Synthetic-X-Press-Fluid_Ounces/dp/B005JPJMI2/

Nevr-dull works great for this. Also available at local stores, like Autozone, etc.

I just cleaned the interior of my new 6 with products/techniques from /r/autodetailing. Its a great sub.

For the dash/panels/screen, I brushed dust gently with a horsehair brush (I bought a new shoeshine brush). Spray a little 1z Cockpit Premium on a microfiber cloth and wiped down. Then I wiped again with a dry cloth. Nice clean matte finish, not the super slick & shiny Armor All look. I used Lexol leather cleaner on my leather seats, after brushing the dust off.

Here's the interior cleaner I used, but there are others. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002Z2MZ4?pc_redir=1395735928&robot_redir=1

Well I've just started getting together my own kit and felt I HAD to get these:

1. Meguiar's Clay bars and quik detail spray
   
   
2. Butt-load of microfiber towels
   
   
3. Waffle-weave drying towel
   
   
4. Grit-guards
   
   
5. Iron X wheel cleaner
   
   
6. Industrial Spray bottles
   
   
7. Meguiar's Gold Class car wash soap
   
   
8. Meguiar's Gold Class Wax
   
   
9. Purple Power
   
   
10. Proper wash mitt
    
    I still feel like there are atleast ten other products that I NEED!
    
    -Pressure Washer
    
    -Foam Cannon
    
    -Detailing brushes
    
    -Sealants/Compounds combined with a proper rotor drill
    
    -ETC
    
    

Meguiars 205, HD Polish, McKee's 37 Fast Polish, Menzerna 3500 come to mind. And honorary mention for HD Speed (All In One or Polish + Sealant) since it's not just a polish but is soooooo good.

When I get my Impreza in a month and a half, I plan on giving it a coat of wax. Seems like a good idea. I've heard this wax is good...
Nu Finish Liquid Car Polish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BPSW7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cSPAybN24F9GC

Not sure what else, I'm looking for recommendations too.

For a regular wash I'd suggest a product like Meguiar's Gold Class shampoo. You can find it at auto parts stores and amazon. Optimum No Rinse doesn't foam and is only intended for "waterless" wash (which really means 2 gallons of water).

P.S. Get yourself 3-4 good towels. I recommend these for their cost effectiveness + softness.
https://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-X2000-Magnet-Microfiber-Drying/dp/B0009IQZFM/

QD electric cleaner. That stuff will high pressure blast that stuff out. Toth burshwill help dislodge and mix the paste with it. I love this stuff.

http://www.amazon.com/CRC-05101-QD-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000CCMLD0

I'd recommend Gummi Pflege Stift instead. There is no better rubber care product:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004B8GTQG/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1