(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best wall painting supplies

TL;DR -- I did not use a primer, and I did completely paint the inside and outside of both panels. No fitment issues, only issue due to extra thickness from the paint was the screws struggling a little bit during re-installation.

Satin Black

Satin Clear

Those are the paints I used. I did not use a primer. I went with satin on both because I was after a matte look like the main black body on the stick. I didn't want them glossy like the original white panels. I did paint the entire surface of the panels. The only thing I noticed was the screws struggled a little bit during re-installation but that was to be expected and really wasn't an issue. I didn't and haven't noticed any other fitment issues from the paint.

For preparation, all I did was wash the panels to remove any dirt/oils and then used the finest sandpaper I had on hand to sand/scuff up both panels to help the paint stick better.

If I remember correctly, I did two (maybe three? sorry it was a while ago) coats of each the black paint and the clear top coat. You will want to spray a good distance away from the panel you're painting, at least 8-10 inches, and nice smooth motions, you kind of want the paint to fall onto the panel lightly, if that makes sense. It helps to avoid runs and imperfections.

I used a paper clip in the screw holes to help me manipulate and hold the panel up as I was spraying so I avoided finger prints and also keep it propped up during drying so it didn't stick to the cardboard box I was using. Between coats check the entire panel for runs or clumps and if there are any, wet-sand those areas smooth with the finest grit sandpaper you have before you apply the next coat.

Once I was satisfied with the look/finish, I let it dry for 72 hours. I just wanted to be sure that everything was DRY before securing them back on the stick. Obviously, you can still use the stick during this, it just looks weird without the panels.

Doing it this way was not 100% ideal or correct I'm sure, I'm not a painter and haven't had much experience with it to be honest. There are one or two imperfections, which I suppose I could wet-sand and repaint, but I don't notice them. They are small, and i don't feel like doing that process again for one or two small imperfections. I am very happy with the look and outcome of the little project and happy I did it. They look so much better black than they did white.

Hopefully this post is of some help. Good luck, you will be very happy you did it. It is worth it, the stick looks so much better.

Take apart the controller, obviously, and separate the top and bottom shells. Use a tri-wing screwdriver, I found mine on amazon for less than a dollar (shipping included, the price is subject to go up). I've read about people using a small phillips screw driver, and sort of forcing the screws to turn. If that works for you, great. I wouldn't try it, though. Why damage the screws when you can do it the right way?

1. Sand the shells down. I used 220 sandpaper, higher grit would be better. This gets rid of Nintendo's top coat, and allows the paint to fuse to the plastic better.
   
   
2. Wash the shells with soap and water. This'll get rid of all of the dust from sanding, and also make sure you're not painting on top of any sweat or dirt.
   
   
3. Primer? I didn't use any because the spray paint I had is designed for plastic and doesn't require primer. Unless you have this kind of spray paint, you'll need a primer.
   
   
4. Spray Paint. I did 2 coats of red. Keep the bottle a good distance from the controller and it'll turn out good.
   
   
5. Clear Coat it. I bought a clear coat designed for plastic. I actually wish the finish was a little different, but it worked perfectly for what I needed it to do. The clear coat will protect the paint from damaging. So if you drop it, the idea is the clear coat might get scuffed but the paint won't chip. (Also other obvious protection from aging etc. )
   
   
6. Let it dry for as long as you can wait. Honestly, 2-3 days is ideal. It may feel dry, but it's not. The paint takes a long time to set. You might even be able to use it a few hours after painting it, but I promise you it'll turn out better if you let it dry for a couple of days. I was really anxious to take the picture, so I let it dry from morning to night and then put it together. I took the pic, and put it in a well ventilated and cool temperature room of my house. There it will dry for a couple of days before I am ready to let my friends play with it.
   
   Good luck and post pictures! /r/customcontrollers & /r/smashbros
   
   Edit: I cleaned up this guide a little in case anybody reads it in the future and needs help.

Give me a minute, I can link you to a comment I found explaining it in depth

EDIT: I'm just gonna paste it here. For reference, I,believe priming is coating it in a thin layer of paint to act as a base. Use black primer for darker results and white for lighter. Credit to u/pyrese

I love painting the hero forge minis; sounds like you did yours in the new high detail plastic.

I've done a few of those recently and once you get them primed, it's not much different than painting die cast minis.

1. Using needle files and a pen knife, gently remove any spru from your miniature. You will have to be a little more careful than normal; I had one with a particularly fragile joint snap on me from an inadvertent touch, but generally they are durable. If you break any part of it, use superglue and gently brace the two parts together; Let dry over night and it should be just as strong or stronger than before.
   

• Needle Files
  
• Pen Knife
  

2. Next, fill a bowl with some warm and soapy water. Using a soft bristle tooth brush, gently clean the whole surface and rinse in warm water. You can pat dry, but I would still let the figure dry over night after cleaning. It is very important that you use a soft bristle brush; Medium or harder can scratch the surface of your miniature.
   
3. Once dry, coat lightly with a spray on primer; you'll need to get all angles. I prefer white as, with the black plastic, it is easier to see how evenly I've coated. Let dry. For me, this is over night due to my schedule, but it should be dry for painting in 2-3 hours.
   
4. At this point, you're clear to start painting. Use light coats. The thinner your coats, the more detail that will be maintained. You can use matte acrylic medium to thin the paints out. For me, this takes place over multiple evenings. However, if you find that you can switch between different parts of the miniature or between other miniatures as they dry, you can work continuously, switching whenever you need to let a coat of paint dry (5-10 minutes ish). I'll provide more thoughts on the actual painting in a response.
   

• Matte Medium
  
• Brushes ; On the last few I did, I just used cheap brushes from hobby lobby. However, this is the set I'll be trying out on the Catfolk I primed last night.
  
• Reaper Paints ; Reaper MSP is the line I prefer to use for most of my paints. For some technical paints, I'll go to citadel's line, but you can achieve the same results by getting your own base materials and mixing with your Reaper or other base line of paints.
  
• Color Pallete Design a color pallete for your project before you start!
  

5. Once you are satisfied with it's appearance and everything is dry, coat with a spray gloss enamel; give 3 or 4 coats in accordance with your products directions. For me, that's 15 minutes between coats.
   

• Glossy Enamel
  

6. (Optional) if you want to reduce the shine of the gloss enamel, follow with 1-3 coats of a matte spray enamel. This also has the advantage of being obvious when your enamel starts to wear off. If you see shiny spots on your mini, it's time to recoat.
   

• Matte Enamel
  
  
  

I love painting the hero forge minis; sounds like you did yours in the new high detail plastic.

I've done a few of those recently and once you get them primed, it's not much different than painting die cast minis.

1. Using needle files and a pen knife, gently remove any spru from your miniature. You will have to be a little more careful than normal; I had one with a particularly fragile joint snap on me from an inadvertent touch, but generally they are durable. If you break any part of it, use superglue and gently brace the two parts together; Let dry over night and it should be just as strong or stronger than before.
   

• Needle Files
  
• Pen Knife
  

2. Next, fill a bowl with some warm and soapy water. Using a soft bristle tooth brush, gently clean the whole surface and rinse in warm water. You can pat dry, but I would still let the figure dry over night after cleaning. It is very important that you use a soft bristle brush; Medium or harder can scratch the surface of your miniature.
   
3. Once dry, coat lightly with a spray on primer; you'll need to get all angles. I prefer white as, with the black plastic, it is easier to see how evenly I've coated. Let dry. For me, this is over night due to my schedule, but it should be dry for painting in 2-3 hours.
   
4. At this point, you're clear to start painting. Use light coats. The thinner your coats, the more detail that will be maintained. You can use matte acrylic medium to thin the paints out. For me, this takes place over multiple evenings. However, if you find that you can switch between different parts of the miniature or between other miniatures as they dry, you can work continuously, switching whenever you need to let a coat of paint dry (5-10 minutes ish). I'll provide more thoughts on the actual painting in a response.
   

• Matte Medium
  
• Brushes ; On the last few I did, I just used cheap brushes from hobby lobby. However, this is the set I'll be trying out on the Catfolk I primed last night.
  
• Reaper Paints ; Reaper MSP is the line I prefer to use for most of my paints. For some technical paints, I'll go to citadel's line, but you can achieve the same results by getting your own base materials and mixing with your Reaper or other base line of paints.
  
• Color Pallete Design a color pallete for your project before you start!
  

5. Once you are satisfied with it's appearance and everything is dry, coat with a spray gloss enamel; give 3 or 4 coats in accordance with your products directions. For me, that's 15 minutes between coats.
   

• Glossy Enamel
  

6. (Optional) if you want to reduce the shine of the gloss enamel, follow with 1-3 coats of a matte spray enamel. This also has the advantage of being obvious when your enamel starts to wear off. If you see shiny spots on your mini, it's time to recoat.
   

• Matte Enamel
  
  
  

Nope, although you might get away with it depending on your goals.

Finishing wood for outdoors is really difficult, largely because of the UV exposure. Almost any finish breaks down over time and needs reapplied every so often, but if the finish isn't UV-stabilized specifically for outdoor use, that process takes days or weeks instead of years.

The most protection you can give wood is paint, or a semi-opaque deck stain, which is pretty much the same thing. If you don't want to obscure the grain that much, you need to look at marine varnishes, since they're typically formulated for serious long-term exposure. Epifanes Classic is widely regarded as one of the best options, but any boat supply place will have other options. Follow the directions exactly, no matter how complex the coating schedule. "Spar urethane" from a hardware store, like Minwax Helmsman, is plenty waterproof and can handle a bit of sunlight, but it can't handle long-term daily exposure like the better finishes. Unfortunately, even those better finishes will eventually break down and need recoated.

Another option is to skip the finish entirely. Trees spend quite a lot of time outdoors, and perhaps unsurprisingly some species are quite good at it even once you strip off the bark. Ipe, osage orange, black locust, and teak are some of the best choices, and white oak, western red cedar, and black walnut are pretty decent as well. Those woods, with no finish at all, will survive longer than most wood finishes.

If you happened to make your marker out of a resilient wood, the Danish oil won't help much but also won't hurt. You could stick it outside now and likely be fine for a decade or two. If it's not one of those woods, spend some time putting a high-end marine varnish on. It'll still need touched up occasionally, but that'll give it a shot.

Ultimately, I hope you're not expecting a century of service out of this. Wood is great, but tombstones are usually granite for a reason.

Hrmm.. a lot of my cheap stuff has already been purchased. I don't have much.. under $5... but I'll link some fun things anyway.

Lots of Domo-kuns

Bloody Hand decal

Marcelline the Vampire Queen Decal

Borderlands decal

Tattoo Coloring Book

SO MANY MONKIES FOR UNDER $5

I have a LOT of random stuff. I have multiple lists as well, so it's easier to figure out what you want to look at (just mark "all" instead of "unpurchased" so you don't miss stuff. Also try searing for SODIAL stuff. They have cheap things. :)


I'm kinda random so maybe my lis.st will give you some ideas at least. Good luck. :)


I'm queen of attention to details I have no idea what song that is from because I never pay attention.

Thanks for the contest and good luck on finding stuff. I like amazon "window shopping".


EDIT: had to fix the tattoo coloring book link. If you like coloring but don't like "kiddy" coloring books search "Dover Design Coloring Books" there are lots of them and all different kinds. :)

> Whenever I wear earplugs for more than an hour or so they hurt my ears,

Well, what kind of earplugs? Not all earplugs are created equal.

>I'm afraid these types of headsets will do the same,

I have extremely narrow ear canals, especially in my left ear, as in Q tips are a tight fit. But I've never had comfort issues. Yes, when brand new I do feel a bit of pressure but it's not bad, and after 5 hours of use or so they mold to your ears perfectly fine and hold the shape of your canal.

The Halos will ship with 3 different types of plugs. So you can see which ones fit you best. The ones most people use are these which are basically these with a tube through them. I recommend you buy a set of these and try them out. And don't be so quick to dismiss them, genuinely wear them for several hours. Also, it wouldn't be that hard to trim them down on your own with an box cutter/exacto knife.

Thanks. I used the sander just on the rails and stiles. Because the sidelights were originally painted after they were installed there was no paint on the edges and a few coats everywhere else. This would have left a very visible paint line all the way around if I had just painted without sanding first. So I just sanded to blend in where there was paint and where there was none, as well as the loose paint that came up easily. I didn't need to use a heat gun because I was just going to repaint them, not take them all the way to bare wood.

Around the glass I hand-sanded any loose paint and heavy paint bumps. Since the closet is upstairs I didn't have to make it show quality because very few guests will see it.

The sander is a 5" random orbit Bosch ROS20VS. It's several years old, but works great. Never leaves swirl marks.

I've refinished several 100+ year old doors (with a century of paint on them) to bare wood for staining. It's a very tedious job and I hated using heavy solvents, like you. I did find some success using non-fume products like Peel Away. You brush it on and let it sit and it makes scraping off old paint a lot easier. You just have to follow the directions closely and make sure you get it all off (it's water soluble). However, it may still leave very old oil based layers. You may have to just sand, or scrape, those off.

But, the next product I will try for those projects is Smart Strip (https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Strip-Peel-Away-Remover/dp/B001F0KO2S). It's expensive, but seems to get good reviews.

I'm considering plasti dipping my entire car as well. Me and a buddy ran the numbers the other night and I can't remember it all, but it seemed really reasonable. I think buying the spray gun will be one of the more expensive parts, but once I have it, I have it. And then if someone else decides they want theirs done, I can do it for them for a slight cost ;)

It does look the same as far as I can tell. From what I read, plasti dip has a little rougher of a finish, where this doesn't. But I can't say for sure because I've never used the plasti dip.

Yes, I just used a spray can for the rims, I suggest buying one of the contraptions that you put on the can that makes spraying easier though. My fingers went numb 20 minutes into doing it. It's been over 48 hours now and I still have no feeling in either of my index fingers. I'm not exaggerating in the least. http://www.amazon.com/Can-Gun1-2012-Premium-Aerosol-Spray/dp/B002EQEE82 Something like that is what I mean.

I'm thinking it will hold up very well, there's one spot I need to redo. It's where they put the wheel weights on the outside of the rim. One of the wheels didn't take to it well so it peeled a tiny bit. Just going to cut the section out and spray it again, it's only about an inch long.

A friend plasti dipped his motocross rims, apparently sprayed it right over dirt and everything, his has been on there for 3-4 years now and he says it still looks great. So take from that what you will, but it should last a long time if you do it well. Even if you have to touch a few things up after a year, it's cheap and easy to do!

My recommended buying list for a new painter is:

Tools

• Nippers
  
• Hobby Knife
  
• Thinning Medium
  
• Glue
  
• Glue Accelerant
  
• Brush Cleaner
  
• Palette
  
  Sprays
  
  
• Primer
  ○ Grey is standard, white if you're painting a majority of light colors, and black if the majority is dark.
  
• Matte Varnish
  
  Brushes
  
  
• Brushes
  ○ Round 0
  ○ Round 1
  ○ Round 2
  
  
  All in all it should be around $60 USD for the tools and about $40 USD for the brushes. However, this list gives you every tool you will need to get started and to continue with the hobby. Nt all of this is required, but it is nice to have.
  
  This is just what I like to have on hand, this does not reflect the "perfect list". I hope it helps :)

If you have any questions about getting the Photon going, give me a holler. I made all of the regular mistakes, so can probably help.

I will say the following:

Leveling the plate is the most important thing you can do. My process is a lot like the generic instructions, but I take it a step farther: When I level the very first time, I loosen the top screw, and the four build plate screws as well. I then use the paper method (Get a regular piece of printer paper under the plate and gently .01mm lower the plate from 0 until the paper can be pulled out, but not pushed back in. I then hold the plate in my hand and don't let it move as I tighten down the 4 plate screws in an X formation. I then check the paper, and usually have to lower it a few .01 mm at a time until it's back to being tight. Then I hold the plate again by hand and tighten the center screw. Finally, I hold the square head and tighten down a quarter turn or so more to really lock it in place. At that point, I try to leave it alone until it gets moved, or prints get weird. I haven't had to re-level this since then.

For the Thumb Drive: Seriously, replace the one it comes with. I fixed a lot of problems by spending $10 at Frys. Resist temptation to get a large drive. You don't need it, and it can mess up on the Photon. I got a 16GB Sony, and it works really well. I still have occasional issues where I've ejected the drive, and will have to put it back in the computer, and re-eject. This happens about 1/6 or so times. A little irritating, but not a huge issue.

Download Chitubox. Use it. Forget the included Photon Slicer, which is simply an older version of Chitubox, and is inferior in every way.

Don't be afraid to use 3rd party resin. Like I said, I use Elegoo grey. It's a little thinner, but that doesn't seem to give me any less in the way of prints, but it does make it a little easier to get off of the build plate.

Invest in some plastic putty knives. By some, I mean a lot. They're about $1 each at Home Depot, or you can buy in bulk from Amaozn. I also sometimes use a [plastic razor scraper ] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076BBW1WM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), but honestly, the plastic putty knives work great. I never use metal on the build plate.

Stir your resin between prints.

Don't overfill resin.

Inspect your print basin every few days for leaks. A leak onto your LED screen is a bear to get off.

Buy a big pack of nitrile gloves, a bunch of 99% IPA, and some jars or bins where you can rinse off resin.

You can buy a $11 UV nail curing station from Amazon that'll work beautifully to cure your prints. It actually works great, and there's no real reason to buy something more expensive, except for convenience.

Anyway, I could go on, but this is a basic overview based on all of the mistakes I've made, and hopefully learned from!

Edit : thanks for the gold!

I use "3M Peltor X-Series Over-the-Head Earmuffs". They work great, they're comfy, and $30.

• When I shoot outdoors, I use the X4A (Chartreuse, 27dB).
  
• When I shoot indoors, I use the X5 (Black, 31dB) or X4A with 3M Classic Earplugs, medium size.
  
• When I'm working on turbine engines, I use the foamy ear plugs and/or MSA HPE Cap Mounted Earmuff. (In case you want a hard hat mounted option.)
  
  ​
  
  I've tried a bunch of different earpro options. The most important thing is that the muffs seal around your ears... as best they can while wearing safety glasses. I always wear a baseball cap and Smith & Wessson Magnum 3G safety glasses. (Hot .22 brass inside your glasses really sucks.) For ear plugs, most people like the long skinny kind that you roll and stuff into your ear canal. They really bother me, so the only ones I like are the 3M classics. I even had some custom ear plugs made and they did not work at all. (And it's only a matter of time before you lose them.) Also make sure to clean reusable plugs between uses.
  
  ​
  
  I'm not a fan of electronic ear muffs, especially Howard Leight Low Profile. The speakers inside the muffs stand on my ears and they don't seal for crap. One of my buddies was using these and had a terrible flinch. I gave him the X4's his flinch was gone. I haven't tried any of the mid-range electronic ear muffs. The high end MSA Sordins are very nice and pretty effective, but I haven't got around to picking some up yet. The only time you really want electronic muffs is when you're doing a shooting class, and you need to listen to the instructor. (Or for hunting, I suppose.) For general BS'ing during shooting or listening to the Range Safety Officer, I can hear just fine.
  
  ​
  
  Another point about PPE (Personal Protective Equipment), don't take it off! Leave your ear plugs in and your glasses on so you don't lose or damage them. Ear muffs are easy to take off during cease fires.

I would consider using a cabinet scraper (just sand a little after you remove the bulk of the finish) and a scratch stock. This will be AGES faster than sanding or stripping and a lot easier to clean up. It may take a while to get the profile perfect on the scratch stock, but it will save you hours of nasty chemicals or lots of dust and gummed-up sandpaper. Chances are, even if you do end up changing the profile of the handrail slightly in your efforts to remove the finish with a scraper, no one will know or care.

If you do decide to sand, a toothpick or sharpened dowel with sandpaper wrapped around it tightly might help you get into the grooves.

As for the gaps...You can do a total repair by cutting the sides clean with a dovetail saw and then gluing in a shim, which you would then sand to match the profile. Or you could go the lazy route and fix it with a filler paste; I would recommend mixing up some sawdust and glue, rather than using a store-bought product (they tend to be chalky and don"t last long).

Good luck and let us know how it turns out!

Hey! I actually just did this exact job in my house on the fireplace. Probably about 6-7 layers of paint for me. I did a ton of research and settled on smart strip (amazon link below) - there is also a pretty good YouTube video of someone doing outside brick. I put the paste on very thick and used the waxy paper to cover for 2 full days. When I came back to it with a heavy duty razor scraper, it came off pretty easily. I’d say I still spent 5min per brick on the later part of the process but absolutely love how the project came out.

album of pictures


Smart Strip by Peel Away - 1 Gallon Paint Remover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F0KO2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5uC-Bb522HRW2

I got one similar but from Lowe’s so I could make sure was heavy duty. ORIENTOOLS Heavy Duty 4-inch Razor Blade Scraper with Long-Handle, Cleaning Glass Wall Scraper, Painting Stripping Tools,Tile Adhesive Removal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075Z4B54H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3BC-Bb10Q4KND

Meta-hobby! I've only been back into collecting for about 3 months. I have about 60 at the moment.

My washing method (3rd time I posted this today...I should probably just make it a post :) is as follows:

• Tergi-Kleen: http://www.amazon.com/TergiKleen-Alcohol-free-Tergitol-based-Concentrate-Cleaning/dp/B019YI38Z2/
  
• paint edger: http://www.amazon.com/Shur-Line-500-Premium-Paint-Edger/dp/B0001MQI9E/
  
• some large pans (I ended up getting some oil change pans for $2.50 each from WalMart)
  
• rubber pads (large rubber washers work great, as would small squares of rubber)
  
• distilled water
  
• lint free towels
  
  The technique:
  
  Pan 1 has the water, tergikleen (just a few drops) and rubber washers. Pan 2 has clean water for rinsing
  
  I fill pan 1 just deep enough to cover the rubber pads and the top of a record when placed in.
  
  I then place in a record, submerge it, then take the paint pad and do a few laps in one direction, then a few in the other. The rubber pads allow you to wash the record right in the pan without hurting the underside of the record. It also prevents the LP from 'sticking' to the pan due to suction.
  
  Flip the record over, repeat.
  
  Give it a bath in the rinse water.
  
  Dry with the towels.
  
  Prop up on a shelf to finish air drying.
  
  Works great.

I know I'm really late to the party, but I wanted to add my two cents. I've worked construction all my life. On the road, I've shared rooms with a number of heavy snorers. Ear plugs always worked the best for me.

Now for the last 6 months I've been working in a production plant and it's loud as hell. My employer is kind enough to provide us with about 7 options for earplugs. I've tried them all extensively and these are by far the best. They block out plenty of noise, are insanely comfortable, and stay secure all day.

There's about 120 guys between the two shifts and the safety man says he has to order these ear plugs twice as much as all the other types combined.

I'm sure you'd be able to find those in Europe.

Per Bob Flexner's book,

Warping like this is caused by compression shrinkage. When the wood fibers get wet, especially only on one side, they are limited in their ability to swell laterally, so they well longitudinally. This deforms the fibers, making them longer than they were. They then dry in that long, thin shape, and when they try to return to their original configuration while drying, they are now thinner than they were because of the deformation. This causes them to shrink tighter than they were, pulling the sides of the board into a cup.

The solution to this is counterintuitive but effective. Since you can't fix the wood fibers that have already deformed, you have to deform the other side to match it. Clamp the sides so the wood can't expand in that direction, then soak the bowed (not cupped) side with water and let it dry. You may need to do this several times, but now the fibers on the opposite side will deform, shrink, and pull the board back flat.

It looks like you may need to remove the finish from the top to pull this off, unfortunately, but it's likely the only way to approach a fix without removing wood from the piece. Good Luck!

I'll second "use a hobby primer", though I am much less specific about it than /u/DathNader26. I use Army Painter primer, though I've used Citadel and Privateer before too. The only real rule is that if you use a color besides black or white, you must use a matching color to touch up any exposed areas. Citadel Dawnstone and Army Painter Uniform Grey are different enough that I can notice them if I change greys over a model. If you spray with Dawnstone, that needs to be your only grey paint for that model.

As far as other paints, once again the rule of consistency applies. I started painting with Citadel paints, so I mostly use Citadel so that my army looks consistent.

Since you're starting new, I may recommend Army Painter. I use a couple of their paints. They are as good as Citadel and substantially cheaper. The only Citadel product that I would strongly recommend is their ink washes. They are kind of pricey, but they are great and have awesome effects. It took me years to discover the magic of ink washes, so let me strongly point you in their direction right now.

A high temp barbeque paint would work wonderfully for what you're looking for. You're only painting the handles, which won't be in direct contact with food I assume. There are a few colors available, but pretty limited, so a varied stripe pattern might work.

They're designed for a grill which is near high temperatures and food safely, but not in direct contact with the food. You could check with the customer support at Rust-Oleum to be sure it's safe on kitchen cookware but I can't see a reason it wouldn't be.

Awesome.. thanks for that info, much appreciated. I may try the grille swap myself using this guide.. I have done stuff like this on my old accord and altima but heard its trickier on these cars.

But thanks for the guide, I am going to look it over when I get out of work.

They sell these handles you can put over the plastidip can to give it a more even coating and helps the back and forth motion as well as your finger from pressing on the spray tip.

https://www.amazon.com/Can-Gun1-2012-Premium-Aerosol-Spray/dp/B002EQEE82/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1466530359&sr=8-6&keywords=plastidip

Works really well and can use it for other spray bottles too.

Def keep me updated with pics and thanks again!

Epifanes varnish. Use the Wood Finish Gloss to build up a smooth surface without sanding between each coat. Sand after a few coats and apply the Clear varnish for a stunning finish. It will give you the rich color you're after and the clear super smooth high gloss finish you want. Plus it has super UV and water resistance.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005ADX4N2/ref=pd_aw_sims_1?pi=SY115&simLd=1&dpPl=1&dpID=51QTN7uDRlL._SY200_QL15_&slTrans=0&ref=nsDpPl

http://www.amazon.com/Epifanes-ECVSA-Clear-Varnish/dp/B005ADWQ9U

Thank you! Yes, I use acrylics and then I spray it all with a Clear coat spray paint for plastic. I personally recommend this one if you are intersted.

n_n No problem! I hope you have fun. Please please please share how you paint him when you get to him.

Suit: Cosplaysky Medium. Jacket (Under the vest thing) was short. Didn't tuck into the pants well. I rolled it up and put it under the vest. Under shirt was too small and hood too big so I used a scuba hood. Belt was too large as well, had my mom sew it to make it shorter. I'm 5'7, 40" chest, 32" waist for reference.

Helmet: Xcoser (Paid $30 for it on eBay. Came with a flaw so ended up with 2!). Painted it Rustoleum wine and black. I liked the black face so kept it. 2 coats of flat clear coat. Lenses are made from a soda bottle and car tints then I glued them in.

Chain and gun were from Amazon.

Kept the boots and gloves from my black suit Daredevil from last year.

Happy how this turned out. Won second place in a cosplay contest!

I'll need to revisit the eyes in the future. These were done with scraps at home.

After you paint minis that you intend to play with it’s a good idea to seal them with varnish. It protects the paint job otherwise you can start to wear it down over time.

Generally, matte varnish is best unless you want really shiny - take a look at the army painter spray here:

https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-CP3003-Anti-Shine-Varnish/dp/B005WH4C2S/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?keywords=the+army+painter&qid=1555252570&s=gateway&sr=8-14


The reason you want to do it before basing them is the varnish will cloud up the clear base, so you want to get them all finished before re-basing them.

Hope this helps!

Here is a list of things that people will always need, I understand you can't stock everything as overhead is an issue with retail, and storage as well, but most of these are small enough that they can occupy the shelf space you currently have. As for the larger things, like the 2020 extrusions, you could sell them in common lengths of 500mm and 1000mm and let the customer cut them down to the size they need, or just don't carry these at all. It's not a niche item, but for a retail store like you it would be hard to store and maintain, but man, would it be nice to be able to get those locally if i needed a piece for a project instead of having to wait on mail order.

• PSU 12v/24v
  
• Fans 30mm/40mm in 12v/24v
  
• PEI 200mm, 250mm, 300mm for Deltas and 300x300 for Cartesian, CoreXY.
  
• E3D Hotends
  
  • v6
    
  • Volcano
    
  • Titan Aero
    
  • Nozzle Variety Pack
    
  • Thermistors
    
  • Pro Socks
    
  • Heater Cartridges
    
  • Volcano Nozzles
    
  • Heat Breaks
    
• Boro Glass
  
• Spatulas similar to this style
  
• Plastic Razor Blades
  
• Capricorn PTFE Tubing 1.75/3mm variants
  
• Screws, Cap head, M3, M4, M5 etc.
  
• 2020 Extrusion, 2040 Extrusion etc
  
  this is just a basic list, others have listed other things as well, Steppers, Belts, Pulleys, Bearings etc. If you want 3d printing as a reason for other people to go to your store, these items will satisfy the need. Just keep prices fair, I have no issue paying a bit more compared to amazon to get it today.
  

The best clear finish for wood, bar none, is this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Epifanes-ECVSA-Clear-Varnish/dp/B005ADWQ9U

Highly recommend. Goes on smooth, and extremely durable. Also great customer support. You can contact the mfg if you have questions about application.

I think you can still order the paint from Porsche, they still carry Guards red, but it's expensive. $23 for a paint marker the size of my finger... I can't imagine the cost worth a whole car.

With paint that old the new paint may stand out too much and you'll be unhappy with it even if you did a perfect job.

There are some plastic razor blades you can buy off amazon and use to scrape the paint can splatter- I'd try that before a thinner. For cost effective (and time) I would use a paint marker from porsche for the scratches if it doesnt bother you to do it that way. If you want to fill every scratch, nick and ding with bondo then you may as well repaint the whole girl when you're putting in that much effort

​

Amazon razor blade example:

https://www.amazon.com/FOSHIO-Scrapers-Contoured-Refillable-Application/dp/B076BBW1WM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2JQ4C968XSF5X&keywords=plastic+razor+blade&qid=1571288437&sprefix=plastic+razo%2Caps%2C320&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFCSDRPS1pQMTBSOUEmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAwNzUzMjIyM1NQWVoxNVEwUTJIJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA2MzYzNjAzTEtESzRPTkhWOElQJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

This picture is actually on my fridge. We had //just// gotten her and she was sitting in boxes all the time and jumped into a box that I was wrapping christmas presents in and then storing nice and neat. When we weren't looking, she would lean down and oh so delicately nibble the cardboard or the presents then look so innocent when caught :points to the picture:

Or paper.

Or any paper and cardboard or card stock. She's got a think for paper.

I have a thing for cardstock of another nature, if I can so be indulged if I win and/or some stars and planets to make a Dr. Who bedroom just that more awesome. Because it's just the same unless the tardis has the universe around it!

Edit: Raffle phrase! IF I FITS I SITS ... She sat.

1. My favorite movie right now is Life of Pi. I would love to give this to a friend that lives in another state. She's very girly and would love it!
   
   
2. Glow in the dark stars!
   
   
3. Sprout
   
   Thank you for this amazing contest!

You'll want to use a primer! Don't worry, it took me forever to figure that out. Basically acrylic paint isn't made to stick on plastic, and it'll come off super easy. Primers are paints made to stick on things like plastic. That means that you're coating your model in a material that accepts your acrylic paint better than plastic. You can get primer from any home improvement store, but here's some links to some on amazon. They all work just fine, you just need to make sure it says "primer" somewhere on the can.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-249846-Painters-Purpose-12-Ounce/dp/B002BWOS94/

https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-CP3001-Base-Primer/dp/B005WH3LVG/

https://www.amazon.com/Citadel-Colour-Chaos-Primer-Undercoat/dp/B000A5CHHE/

>EDIT 2: I haven't yet ordered any primer. Any advice on what colour to use (White/Grey/Black?) and what brands would be best?

Army Painter is a common spray primer that a lot of people use.

Another tip that I have is to not forget the model base. You will often see photos were people didn't even bother to fix the random blotches caused when painting the figure, which is distracting and makes the whole model look worse. It's very easy to just paint the base black, but it's also very easy to glue some junk on there and take your model up a level. Even just some dirt/sand, bits of leaves or bark & small rocks. You don't need to buy stuff. Just go outside with a couple baggies. Get some glue put down and stick the stuff on, maybe with some tweezers. The stuff won't stick where you didn't put glue. Here's a good example of basic sand & rock basing which is very achievable by a novice.

I share a birthday(October 21st) with Kim Kardashian, Carrie Fisher, Judge Judy, Alfred Nobel, and Dizzy Gillespie!! It's quite an eclectic group!!

I'd really love this bloody handprint for my car its super cheap and has free shipping!!

http://www.amazon.com/BLOODY-ZOMBIE-HAND-PRINT-Right/dp/B005VFWOOE/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=1LUD12LFFP1BF&coliid=I2PE0T0AE196M9

If you're not into painting - the first bundle is fine if you're willing to put the money into it, the other bundles are too much for a beginner IMO

Something like:
https://www.amazon.com/Miniatures-Highlighting-Miniature-Army-Painter/dp/B01MTXRU2L/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1518146756&sr=8-4&keywords=army+painter+kit

Is a cheaper entry point - look for something in the same category as this, the primary colours + a few extras, a shade and a standard sized paint brush

This way you can try out painting and if you enjoy it, you can add to it from there, while not investing as heavily as the suggested bundles in the link are asking


Another option ~

https://www.amazon.com/Games-Workshop-60-22-Base-Paint/dp/B00KOCXDT4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1518147023&sr=8-2&keywords=citadel+paint+kit

Any paints from Army painter/Citadel/Vallejo are great places to start, just get whatever's got the best deal on at the time.

Only other suggestion would be to get a spray undercoat such as

https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-CP3001-Base-Primer/dp/B005WH3LVG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518147186&sr=8-1&keywords=miniature+undercoat+spray

Undercoat sprays make painting a mini MUCH easier and MUCH quicker, however, if you are only painting the bases and not any detail on the mini, you can get away with no undercoat spray
(You can get cheaper sprays but I find when you're new, picking one model paint brand and sticking to it to start with makes things easier to manage)

I've just grabbed links from Amazon, but you can find these products all over the place

This is what i used and it seemed to dry completely: Rust-Oleum 249087 Painter's Touch Multi Purpose Spray Paint, 12-Ounce, Matte Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002BWORZE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eoIpDb9090GGB

I already tried the 3m rubberized undercoating with automotive paint next and then the clear coat on top of that on an old final mouse to test it out and it turned out GREAT looks and feel wise ... but I made the mistake of trying to coat the side buttons as well and ended up making them too bulky to fit through the hole...also I think I just did too many coatings of the undercoating in general on the entire body which made the side button hole smaller as well....so I just sort of stopped messing with it for the time being seeing as I can’t really order replacement side buttons from FM..

I will definitely be trying it out on another old mouse soon though to perfect what I learned the first time around and tweak that before I do it to a mouse I actually use. I’ll post a picture of my fm in a bit though...

i dont think you need any liquid sander, i'd just was the case with soap and water, dry well then wipe down with isopropyl alcohol.

Hit it with a plastic primer (white so you dont need as much paint to cover up the black. this will also help smooth out the texture so you get a smoother shinier finish
http://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/specialty/plastic-primer-spray

get some krylon fusion paint (its maid for plastic specifically) and spray it. it should already be pretty smooth and glossy if you want to got a step further get a spray on clearcoat gloss http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-2444-Fusion-Plastic-Clear/dp/B001TNMWBM you can add a couple layers of this to help protect the paint give you a super glossy finish.

3M VHB tape is the best
VHB stands for Very High Bond, it sticks amazingly well to smooth surfaces like a kwad frame but when you want to remove it you can peel it off pretty easily. It isnt going anywhere when you fly. It is also a little foamy so it provides a little cushion bten the carbon fiber and electronics.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BU7038A/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_hQ4jDbV2SB64H

1. [ An actual pig fetus] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075MYH3HS/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B075MYH3HS&pd_rd_wg=lEbIj&pd_rd_r=M51TSDG8J4GWBZBR2NKQ&pd_rd_w=VWXw1)
   
   
2. [ An edible Tarantula] ( https://www.amazon.com/Newport-Jerky-Company-Dehydrated-Tarantula/dp/B01APQ58XC/ref=sr_1_11_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1522251747&sr=8-11&keywords=weird)
   
   
3. [ This amazing wall mural!] (https://www.amazon.com/Senior-Asthma-Wallmonkeys-Graphic-WM335116/dp/B0150BAHNI/ref=sr_1_25?ie=UTF8&qid=1522251832&sr=8-25&keywords=weird)
   
   all super weird!
   
   [ I have this vinyl on my list! So excited for it to come out!] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BMDLB9F/?coliid=IGXIYKRJ67EHF&colid=27Z1AU3E4B3XJ&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it)

If you have the time and a little money, you can put together goody bags for your fellow travelers. It was super trendy on Facebook last year, I think. Just a snack size ziploc with a few hard candies, a pair of foam earplugs, and a note that says, "Today is Bryce's first flight. We hope it goes well. If not, please accept these earplugs and candies with our apologies. Thank you for your patience and understanding."

The earplugs are pretty cheap on Amazon - - 200 individual packs for less than $30.

Yes there is a clear coat you can spray on. It's cheap and easy and you get what you pay for (not as good as a real polishing).

You can use any clear lacquer. I've used this before on rocks

I'm not an expert, but if it were me, the first thing I would try is using a card scraper.

They are cheap no matter what (whether you make one or buy one), you can buy them in all kinds of different shapes from places like woodcraft or online.

I've also used putty knives (like the kind you use for dry wall) to make card scrapers. I can't personally tell a difference in the effectiveness doing it this way vs buying them (and at this point I've done it both ways).

here is an example of a set you can buy on amazon... https://www.amazon.com/Crown-376-Cabinet-Scraper-Gooseneck/dp/B001C06BLE

the curvy one would probably make the most sense for the fine work here.

basically you sharpen them with a file and a screw driver (make sure it's hard metal going all the way up the shaft like an old craftsman screwdriver or the like, also it should be round and not some weird hexagonal shape.

there are lots of videos on how to sharpen a card scraper, so you should watch them, but basically you file the edge flat across, then use the screwdriver (which should be made of harder steel than the scraper which is why this works), to turn a hook onto the edge of the steel.

I painted 4 dozen mason jars. I used chalk board spray paint it worked great. 2 coats was best. Also one of these things helps a lot.

This wall poster

A wonderful way to clean your cat RIP Lue

NSFW begins here

Anything by this man His books include

• Pounded in the Butt by My Own Butt
  
• Gay T-Rex Law Firm Executive Boner
  
• I'm Gay for my Living Billionaire Jet Plane
  
• Leonardo Decaprico Finally Wins His Award And It Pounds Him In The Butt
  
• And many many more
  
  Whatever this book is about the microsoft word paperclip

I respectfully call Bullpucky on that.

"Almost any finishing product – stain, filler, glaze, finish – can be applied successfully over any other finishing product, except wax (including residue wax from paint strippers), as long as that product is dry." - Bob Flexner.

This article is good. His BOOK is even better.

That is all just surface level rust and blemishes. You could clean that up to look new pretty easily or keep it as is and it would be just fine. Just make sure to use the [right kinda paint] (https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-7778830-Enamel-Spray-Bar-B-Que/dp/B0010O0C94) if you're planning on refacing.

Most painters have their preferences. I prefer Citadel but it's pricey. I've been using it ever since they were the only ones to offer spray primer and at this point I'm just used to how it reacts and know how to work with it well and IMO it's better quality. Army Painter spray primer is fine too though.

To my surprise, when researching primers on Amazon, I found that the Army Painter primer is only one dollar cheaper than the GW Citadel primer so in that case I would definitely go with Citadel. It has two negative reviews by people who haven't bought it and think it's too expensive even though the AP primer costs basically just as much, but I guess that's the anti-GW circlejerk for you.

seems to me one of these would make life easier as well. not sure if this specific model will fit on the can you choose but it looks like you'd make nicer passes with this than the can by itself.

https://www.amazon.com/Can-Gun1-2012-Premium-Aerosol-Spray/dp/B002EQEE82

good video. you should check out plastic razor blades. super helpful in peeling acrylic!

https://www.amazon.com/FOSHIO-Scrapers-Contoured-Refillable-Application/dp/B076BBW1WM/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=plastic+razor+blades&qid=1574494005&sr=8-4

Hello!!! [This] (http://www.amazon.com/Shur-Line-500-Premium-Paint-Edger/dp/B0001MQI9E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1369052429&sr=8-1&keywords=paint+corner) is the BEST thing I bought when I was painting. If you're going to do a lot of painting... I highly recommend!

Should it not dry to your liking, use the glue again and do NOT dilute it with water. Then use something like this over the dried glue, because without it the shade will be a dust magnet. The spray will make it easier to clean.

This would be a handy add-on!

I loved this article. It was definitely bizarre and the picture is adorable. Somehow a baby anteater was born even though there was no male in the enclosure.

How bizarre

Have a great day!

Army Painter Matte Spray Varnish is what I use.

It's actually great to use on top of Gloss Varnish, since the gloss goes on thicker and does a good job of protecting the mini.

Matte on top of gloss will appear matte.

I'd go with this remover, not sure about refinishing or repainting, never done metal before.. Good luck!

Dumond Chemicals, Inc. 3301 Smart Strip Advanced Paint Remover, 1 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F0KO2S

Really, you get what you pay for, but in the end I'd still recommend doing it yourself. I feel that in this day and age we rely so heavily on others to do things for us (paid or unpaid) that we end up losing basic knowledge of simple things. I do home remodeling and handyman work for a living and though I'm getting paid to do the work, sometimes it just amazes me to get paid for doing some of the most simple of tasks. And when it come to painting, cutting lines, double (or more) coats and making sure you don't get paint on the floors is really the only issues. That can be solved by patience and careful planning. And personally, I use the edger plus to cut the lines. Follow the instructions and maybe do two coats, you'll be fine.

Not this? https://www.amazon.com/Wallmonkeys-Inhaler-Wall-Decals-FOT-63298300/dp/B0150BAHNI/ref=sr_1_615?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1496614104&sr=1-615. I especially can't figure out how Amazon's algorithm settled on the "Frequently bought together" options for that one. I suspect shenanigans.


There's some weird stuff in that Amazon "Wall Stickers & Murals" category. The juxtapositions are funny too. Just when you're passing through the "normal" inspirational Bible verses and Hello Kitty stickers you come across stuff like this: https://www.amazon.com/Redrum-Shining-Halloween-Wall-Decal/dp/B00OGHYV94/ref=sr_1_434?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1496613789&sr=1-434.

Pretty sure it's one of those weird stock photo posters you can get from Amazon. They pop up in /r/amazonwtf pretty often.

EDIT: like this one

Thanks! I used this 2 coats of this one: https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-249087-Painters-Purpose-12-Ounce/dp/B002BWORZE
I think it’s a great buy!

welcome! if you want a regular set, i have this one and i'm very happy with the quality and performance of them.

Cheapest

What I REALLY want :P it is an amazing iron that does NOT ruin your hair every time you use it! OR basically anything else on my list :P

If I were you, I would use 2 x 12" joist material. Laminate two lengths of the material together such that it becomes a 4 x 12". Then, you will want to have a support as /u/wbgraphic suggests out of the same 4 x 12 material. Since this will be outside (from the sounds of it), you will want to use titebond III and then finish the entire assembly in marine varnish for durability (epifanes http://www.amazon.com/Epifanes-ECVSA-Clear-Varnish/dp/B005ADWQ9U is some hardcore shit). I would also suggest that the entire support structure should be attached not just by lagging to one side of the pole, but via a complete wrap around the pole either with steel cable or some other such structure.

100lbs isn't that much weight, but if you're going to use it as a heavy bag for martial arts, there are quite a few lateral forces to contend with and not just static load. Research how heavy signs are hung from buildings using a boom arm and you'll have a better idea.

Nice work! I, too, started painting minis with Gloomhaven.

Don't try and seal them with clear nail polish, like an idiot I know. Get a spray can of Army Painter or something.

https://www.amazon.com/Wallmonkeys-Inhaler-Wall-Decals-WM335116/dp/B0150BAHNI/ref=pd_sim_201_9?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0150BAHNI&pd_rd_r=J81W5ZHWH9R81W1X6X78&pd_rd_w=pdZNg&pd_rd_wg=3GURK&psc=1&refRID=J81W5ZHWH9R81W1X6X78

I've never seen this side of Amazon before, but it's great.

Edit: Beautiful*.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-OCS1137-Classic-Earplugs-Pillow/dp/B008MCU2M4

Yellow foam earplugs, the most effective and most comfortable.

Did you save it, or is it gone? It can be reattached if not lost or damaged. Get some of this stuff to replace the original tape.

$1.05 with free shipping!

Thanks for the contest!

AHH! BLOODLY HAND! D:

Haha, thanks for the contest!

I used this to finish all of the spray painted pieces.

Krylon Satin Finish Crystal Clear Interior and Exterior top coat.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VKY3I4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

It feels the same as a regular store bought controller to me. I see the indentations but I don't really feel them on the painted vs unpainted ones. They pretty much feel the same to me overall. There's 1 or 2 spots on the purple one I missed with the clear finish that I may redo at a later time but it's kind of where your left index finger sits below the L and ZL buttons so I'm not super worried about it.

Ugh, yeah, that sounds annoying. Repeat after me: "Thank you for making that suggestion. I appreciate that you always share your experience and knowledge with us. Let me write this down to discuss this with FH, since it is his wedding, too, and I want to include him to make for a good partnership and marriage." Take a pen and write down her suggestion. Toss the idea, secretly.

For the deck boards: cut / saw them into the shape you wish for, write whatever you want to write on them and spray paint them with 'clear finish' (acrylic paint, like this). Then dip all edges into wood glue and glitter. It won't be ridiculously expensive, but it will look finished and upscale IMO.

You can use Rust-Oleum High Heat Enamel Spray, Bar-B-Que Black. Not painting the interiors would leave them susceptible to moisture and rust. Nice re-utilization by the way. Happy smokes.

You could also seal it with a clear spray when you're done, just to be sure.

i haven't tried it myself but my research found this to be aquarium safe.

Rust-Oleum 249087 Painter's Touch Multi Purpose Spray Paint, 12-Ounce, Matte Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002BWORZE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_h4KXCbX4BP3TT i found this to work splendedly for a topcoat. And is bigger and cheaper than testors. Another good idea might be getting a top coat for air brushes and airbrush one on.

Well then you'll love the 2'x2' wall decal I got for my friend's birthday, then.

https://www.amazon.com/Wallmonkeys-Inhaler-Wall-Decals-WM335116/dp/B0150BAJYA

I'm ready.

One.

[Two.]
(https://www.amazon.com/JL421-Badonkadonk-Land-Cruiser-Tank/dp/B00067F1CE?tag=zdgeek-20)

Three.

Oh, and if I happened to win, I'd want the Womens owlbear design shirt on my list called Liszt, which is also a fairly weird item if you think about it.

if you need to clean up flat top surfaces try a small cabinet scraper like this
https://www.amazon.com/Crown-376-Cabinet-Scraper-Gooseneck/dp/B001C06BLE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1524097457&sr=8-2&keywords=small+cabinet+scraper

Unfortunately, repairing porcelain enamel surfaces isn't a DIY job. There are some products for bathtubs and there are high temperature enamel paints, but those aren't porcelain enamel coatings. There are companies that can refinish the item for you, like this one, http://www.ipe-porcelain.com/, no idea if they are any good though.

If this for an oven, and the part doesn't actually touch food, I'd contact Rustoleum, they make high temp enamel paints for grills, I'd imagine an oven a similar enough to be okay, though you might need bake in the finish before cooking food in it. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010O0C94/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_x0J3BbHXPYC45

they are so cheap i say just go for it. No idea too crazy!

remember the goal is rain resistant not fully waterproof.

here's some ideas

neverwet

or maybe just a clear coat?

some sort of box around it?

if you do paint it just tape over the emitters and receiver

just make sure to use a power supply that will shut down if their is a short or over current and everything should be ok.

edit:

also this.

Doesn't look that waterproof to me but there it is. I assume they mean just the black sensor but if you enclose the rest of it, should work ok

>... I just reenter it and it stays.

Have you tried using some 3M double sided tape on the sides to improve adhesion? Just those three small strips hold that thing down like an anchor.

Yellow Frog tape is meant for delicate surfaces, like uncured paint. They still recommend a minimum of 24 hours before applying tape.

I've never used one, but I used to sell tons of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Shur-Line-2000874-Premium-Paint-Edger/dp/B0001MQI9E

You'll still want to wait as long as possible for the first color to dry before running this tool up against it. If they work as well as people tell me you won't need tape.

http://www.bombingscience.com/graffiti-shop.htm

I had ordered a grab bag of tips from them awhile back on a kick to try my hand at painting with spray cans. When I went to dip I just found one that fit and sprayed fat.

Handle: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002EQEE82/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2BEIJEESJKGKN&coliid=ILZ4R4YQQXXPM

You could use double sided tape like this: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-5952-VHB-Tape/dp/B01BU7038A/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1517867355&sr=1-3&keywords=3m+vhb

The con is that you might not be able to remove it so easily. This stuff is pretty extreme.

Welcome to the story of my life. I'm sure the government is incredibly concerned since I also looked up a Guy Fieri hat and an Old Woman Inhaler Decal.

Yeah, most spray enamel will work for wood/plastic/metal. Just check the can..you can usually pick it up at any home improvement location. https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-249087-Painters-Purpose-12-Ounce/dp/B002BWORZE/ref=asc_df_B002BWORZE/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=193184886406&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8150720537796560605&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030984&hvtargid=pla-308030796454&psc=1

$8.04

$6.21

$3.09

$1.65

$1.00

$19.99

--------

Gifting is fun!

I would try something like this. You can also get it from Home Improvement stores, or Walmart/target/wherever.

Pigeons, pigeons, on the wall,

If you don't glue them,

They will fall!

My son would love these

I think this one is even better. Like, haven't you always wanted a photo of an old asthmatic woman on your wall?

https://www.amazon.com/Wallmonkeys-Inhaler-Wall-Decals-WM335116/dp/B0150BAJYA

Oh! You definitely have to get the glow in the dark stars! Why? Cause "glow". And cause "in the dark". Oh and don't forget "stars"! Everyone should have these on every ceiling in every home! Haha!

As for me, I would love this Game of Thrones soundtrack! For epic reasons of intrigue, danger, violence, and wonder of course!

also, check out Understanding Wood Finishes by Bob Flexner amazon link

It's basically an encyclopedia on best practices for finishing and goes through specific techniques for a LOT of different kinds of wood.

This is what I was thinking of: Krylon 51313 Satin Finish Crystal Clear 11 Ounce Aerosol https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VKY3I4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_C.pZBbK7DTVWF

It sprays on shiny, but clear.

Krylon K05131307 ColorMaster Acrylic Crystal Clear, Satin, Clear, 11 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VKY3I4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hWU3CbYZKKJJC

I sprayed it on half at a time so it would dry without any marks

I painted my stairwell this weekend and used this. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0001MQI9E. worked great.

Edit: I also used a 10 or 12 ft extension.

I carry smartstrip in my store works great and not as caustic to work with.
https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Strip-Peel-Away-Remover/dp/B001F0KO2S

I would stain first, and then use a high quality spar varnish like Epifanes to seal, waterproof, and UV protect the final product.

I have found that getting a spray can trigger makes a huge difference for me. It changes the angle at which I hold the can to something more natural for me and the trigger makes pressing the spray button smoother and more consistent.

Card scrappers are good for getting glue off. They even work well in corners.

Remove the rust with emery cloth, tape the shit out of anything you don't want painted, and use barbecue paint in a rattle can.

I was thinking of using linseed oil (though I don't know if i'm supposed to mix it with turpentine and vinegar like some say?) But I think linseed oil gives the wood a shine and it yellows over time. I was also looking at dead flat/ matte finishes like this or this or this. I guess it doesn't have to be waterproof, though I have another project that I need to waterproof some wood and though i should get something that works for both lol. Mostly curious if anyone has any specific recommendations.

$1.39 sticker, you perfect being

This will be perfect
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0150BAHNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uaGQybR91FWZ6

I grabbed a bunch of things off my various wishlists that were added for being neat and/or kinda weird. Some are silly things to just look at, and others are things I might actually get one day.

Coolest decoration: Senior Woman with Asthma Inhaler Peel and Stick Wall Decal

Coolest Clothing: Surrender Sweater

Coolest Skincare Item: Milky Piggy Bubble Mask or Twoosong Proplis Sparkeling Ampoule

Coolest Board Game: Betrayal at House on the Hill (it's $30.30, sue me)

Coolest Pet Toy: Cat DJ Deck

Coolest Book: The Morbid Anatomy Anthology

Coolest Shoes: Floral Pumps ($30 after shipping oops)

Coolest Food: Gjetost Goat Cheese

Maybe a curved cabinet scraper?

https://www.amazon.com/Crown-376-Cabinet-Scraper-Gooseneck/dp/B001C06BLE

A sharp, fine file and burnisher will keep / make a nice sharp rolled edge on them.

red: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078WM76Q4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

clear: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BWORZE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Glow in the dark stickers, duh.

I'm watching Doctor Who and this is my favorite recurring pun.

[Doctor somehow ends up in a locked facility] Random dude: How do you suppose he got in? Other random dude: In-tru-der window?

3M VHB tape. This stuff will stick to anything and will go down to sub zero temps. Make sure everything is dry when applying and prep all the surfaces that the VHB tape sticks to with 3M 94 tape primer.

​

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-5952-VHB-Tape/dp/B01BU7038A/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1549918879&sr=8-4&keywords=3M+VHB+tape

​

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Primer-94-02oz-Vinyl/dp/B005LDKTV6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1549916087&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=3M+94+primer&psc=1

​

They might last longer than you think, but if you are looking to add some protection, just use something like this

I'm going to link to the products through a goo.gl url shortener and an amazon affiliate link. If they purchase the product, I get a commission.

Also it's not awful things for sale, it's just weird stuff. Stuff like this: https://www.amazon.com/Wallmonkeys-Inhaler-Wall-Decals-WM335116/dp/B0150BAJYA

Well there is this or this if that isn't enough there is asia old man or "smiling" Asian teen

Understanding Wood Finishing by Box Flexner has a whole section on French Polishing, well worth a read.

> and best of all you get to avoid all of that unnecessary burning paint.

when you use he right kind of paint, it doesn't burn

3M Scotch 5952 VHB Tape: 1 in. x 15 ft. (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BU7038A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_mI8CZO4gVAsfR

That stuff works wonders. I used 4 strips and it is up there haha.

Water based poly wont stand up for long if it's left outside. If you want to refinish it every year it will work. Oil based poly will last a little longer but spar urethane will last longer outside and marine varnish (something like Epifanes Marine Varnish will last for years exposed to the elements. It's not the cheapest option though.

Everyone's got to finish their projects, and I've found this book to be such a good resource:

https://www.amazon.com/UNDERSTANDING-WOOD-FINISHING-BOB-FLEXNER/dp/B000H6EJ4U

If you can't get an airbrush anytime soon, something like this can improve your use of a spray can.

obligatory post for

http://www.amazon.com/UNDERSTANDING-WOOD-FINISHING-BOB-FLEXNER/dp/B000H6EJ4U

if you want to really understand this subject. get it, read it. I have read it several times.

it's like the bible of finishing.

Try:
https://generalfinishes.com/

If you want to really have an idea of what you're doing when finishing, I recommend Understanding Wood Finishing by Bob Flexner

This tool helped a lot for edging in our house. We didn't even have to tape for it. Just kept a damp rag on hand for quickly wiping up mistakes.

It does need an actual hard edge to work well though. If your baseboards end in a soft curvy finish, you'll probably still want to tape them.

https://www.amazon.com/UNDERSTANDING-WOOD-FINISHING-BOB-FLEXNER/dp/B000H6EJ4U

Read this. It will help tremendously

I use plastic razors as a first “scrape” pass and then Gorilla clear tape as a “clean up” pass.

I would use spar varnish with UV blockers, like a marine finish meant for boats, for example this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Epifanes-ECVSA-Clear-Varnish/dp/B005ADWQ9U?th=1&psc=1

Yep! The first aid / medical center at any park should have them. They're just the cheap 3M disposable ones.

I had a problem with the original PS tape as well, it stuck for about 20 mins before it came off. I work in an automotive test lab and we use 3M’s VHB double sided tape for sticking instrumentation and other stuff inside and out side of cars. It sticks even inside of hot cars and outside in cold weather. This is what I use on my pop socket and leather case. Just use an alcohol wipe to clean the surfaces.

I'm not sure what you paid for your turn signal , but the aftermarket ones are cheap , (mostly)universal and generally look better. Here is an example

>not to mention a disposable income.

Yah , and it's all disposed of on tires and shit for my race bike...and beer.

>I don't know where to buy exhaust paint from for cheap


You can find a cheap can of matte black grill paint at Home Depot or where ever for a few bucks , or try to just color it in with a sharpie. Here it is on Amazon for $4


As far as the lever goes if it's forged you may be able to bend it back. Here is a good thread on ADV rider on how to bend it back. . If it's a cheapo cast lever it will probably break.

Yeah...I started questioning reality after looking through the related items. The walkmonkeys are interesting: asthma

You should buy these because you deserve to reach the stars!

You should pick me a nail polishy item because I saw your nail art striping tape, so we are fellow reddit laqueristas ;)

No glossifer, just 6 cans of color. One can per wheel, and 2 for mudflaps.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E975LQ8?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Though I did purchase the spray gun, and I highly recommend that. It worked amazingly well!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002EQEE82?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qtkBZHLJyD0

Here's a way to use the router to flatten a piece. I adapted this to smaller use by finding to boards I knew to be flat and making the sled ride on top of them.

If you still have some ridges after this, or just generally needs some smoothing, get a card scraper ( i got these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001C06BLE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) to knock them down and then follow up with some sanding up to 220 grit.

Epoxy is a decent idea, but I'd add a couple of coats of good spar varnish on top of that. At that point, it doesn't much matter what type of wood you use.

Yeah, I couldn't be much happier with how it turned out. Watch the spray tip on the Montana paint, mine gummed up a bit and caused a little blob on the right controller (which was my first/test one).

Primer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KZ6LLZW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Base:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005JZINNC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Seal:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VKY3I4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Buy a can of stove-black at the hardware store. something like this. Cheap and easy to apply, but do it outside (LFMF).

http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-2444-Fusion-Plastic-Clear/dp/B001TNMWBM

Make sure it the FUSION kind. I have not put this items in my tank yet, but I have read on multiple forums that the ingredients in the Fusion spray become inert after the cure for 48 hours. I've seen fish keepers use this spray in their aquarium on separators before too. I'm letting mine cure for longer than that just to be on the same side.

I also did two coats on everything!

Use spray primer not paint.

I use this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-CP3001-Base-Primer/dp/B005WH3LVG

It's generally fine.

Amazon sells these. Among other scrapers.

Any woodworking store will carry them, probably not Home Depot or Lowe's. Amazon has them at https://www.amazon.com/Crown-376-Cabinet-Scraper-Gooseneck/dp/B001C06BLE, I think I got mine from Busy Bee in Canada.

Here's the amazon link
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0150BAJYA/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_u-RyxbMQXAE04

And here's the video link
https://youtu.be/lyKbUn4TnxM

You want plastic razor blades.


https://www.amazon.com/FOSHIO-Scrapers-Contoured-Refillable-Application/dp/B076BBW1WM/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=plastic+razor+blade&qid=1568816210&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzSlc0M0NQTkkzSFJDJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjI3NDg5M09TSkVBOTJJV1pIOSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjM2MzYwM0xLREs0T05IVjhJUCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

That is fantastic.

Similarly, 3 years ago I put this decal on the back of my friend's armoire. Somehow she has not moved apartments yet which is sad because it is becoming harder and harder to go over to her place knowing that this is on the back of the armoire.

One day, one day...

Look for 3M Scotch 5952 VHB Tape: 1 in. x 15 ft. (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BU7038A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CgH3CbR1PN0F6

Its exactly what you want.

Oops my bad I’m at work so just skimming. No me and my roommate work in body shops and we each got one from our shops lol. We use plastic blades to peel off decals and bumper stickers and whatnot.

FOSHIO 2PCS Plastic Razor Scrapers Knife with Contoured Grip + 100 PCS 1.5 inch Refillable Double Edge Plastic Razor Blades Ideal for Auto Window Tint Vinyl Tool Application https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076BBW1WM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_T0GjDb9ZB50AX

Best thing to do if it's been used for food and has absorbed any grease, wax, sealer, etc. is to use cabinet scrapers and try to get as much of the gunk off so that you can sand dry wood. I made the mistake of trying to sand a used BB cutting board and wasted a lot of time just gumming up the sandpaper. The cabinet scrapers would probably do a lot to minimize airborne bacteria as well.

Yes, there are topcoats specifically for blocking UV. Here's an example.

Same item, but desktop site:
Shur-Line 500 Premium Paint Edger

https://www.amazon.com/UNDERSTANDING-WOOD-FINISHING-BOB-FLEXNER/dp/B000H6EJ4U

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000H6EJ4U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8hwjzb789RJCD

This book right here. Everything you need to know about finishing is in this.

I used this Rust-Oleum Clear Coat . I know it's cheap but this paint has been drying a long time.

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-7778830-Enamel-Bar-B-Que-12-Ounce/dp/B0010O0C94/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1483941402&sr=8-3&keywords=high+temperature+paint

Try black.

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-7778830-Enamel-Spray-Bar-B-Que/dp/B0010O0C94

Traegers, and in my experience most smokers, do rust. (except maybe the enamel green egg). Sand it and spray paint it with a high heat bbq paint. I do live in a high humidity area and I always keep mine. covered.

Rust-Oleum 7778830 High Heat Enamel Spray, Bar-B-Que Black, 12-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010O0C94/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qx9-ybAYJE9PG

Could it be used as a scraper for the concave surfaces of mouldings?

An adjustable version of https://www.amazon.com/Crown-376-Cabinet-Scraper-Gooseneck/dp/B001C06BLE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492648700&sr=8-1&keywords=cabinet+scraper+set

This would be the one!

$5.24

https://www.amazon.com/Can-Gun1-2012-Premium-Aerosol-Spray/dp/B002EQEE82

Zombie stickers are always good

More zombie

Why is it that every time I do a decal/sticker contest, I find stuff I need to add to my own wishlist? :P

Stick 'em Up!

Thoughts on this? The Army Painter Color Primer, Matt Black, 400 ml, 13.5 oz - Acrylic Spray Undercoat for Miniature Painting https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005WH3LVG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BGyRDbSSZ88E8

https://www.amazon.com/Painter-CP3003-Anti-Shine-Matte-Varnish/dp/B005WH4C2S

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008MCU2M4/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?qid=1452223564&sr=8-6&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=3m+ear+plugs

[glow in the dark stars because i have them too!] (http://www.amazon.ca/Sodial-Luminous-Bedroom-Stickers-Universe/dp/B00A7JWJIU/ref=wl_it_dp_v_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=3DWC0GSFS6IUY&coliid=I3OYRAXMFPQVXM)

im gonna gues 602 this week

[This is my current favorite:] (https://smile.amazon.com/Wallmonkeys-Inhaler-Wall-Decals-FOT-63298300/dp/B0150BAHNI/ref=sr_1_3?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1499744716&sr=1-3&keywords=weird)

https://www.amazon.com/Wallmonkeys-Inhaler-Wall-Decals-FOT-63298300/dp/B0150BAHNI/ref=pd_sbs_201_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0150BAHNI&pd_rd_r=JPHYTDFCDGBTCT6PHHA2&pd_rd_w=dEgyK&pd_rd_wg=WxfqX&psc=1&refRID=JPHYTDFCDGBTCT6PHHA2

This one might be even better

I'm partial to this one

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0150BAHNI/ref=pd_aw_fbt_201_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=6GJXAK81PY0XTR0H21S5

The time is now.

heloo