Reddit mentions: The best automotive electrical replacement parts
We found 1,419 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive electrical replacement parts. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 682 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. HELLA 003399801 Supertone 12V High Tone / Low Tone Twin Horn Kit with Red Protective Grill, 2 Horns (3AG 003 399-801)
- These are the famous loud and powerful Dual Supertone Horns which look and sound like nothing else on the road. These horns guarantee the attention needed in every situation
Features:
Specs:
Color | Red |
Height | 5.59054 Inches |
Length | 5.1181 Inches |
Weight | 1.93 Pounds |
Width | 4.92125 Inches |
Release date | October 2011 |
Number of items | 1 |
2. Putco 230004HW Premium Automotive Lighting H4 100W Heavy Duty Wiring Harness and Relay,BLACK
- Heavy duty wiring harness and relay with H4 plug
- Connected plug is hard and insulated plastic
- Designed to heat proof temperatures more than 480 degrees Fahrenheit for added protection when used with high wattage bulbs
- Easy to replace original connected plugs
- Made with the highest grade material
Features:
Specs:
Color | BLACK |
Height | 0 Inches |
Length | 0 Inches |
Weight | 1 Pounds |
Width | 0 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
3. Maestro ADS-MRR Universal Radio Replacement and Steering Wheel Interface
- Allows installation of a new car stereo in select 2006-up Chrysler, Fiat, Ford, GM, Honda, Subaru, Toyota, and VW vehicles
- Retains factory convenience features (OnStar, SYNC, Uconnect, and more) with select Kenwood, Alpine, Pioneer, and JVC touchscreen receivers
- Displays engine performance data on touchscreen with select Kenwood, JVC, Pioneer, and Alpine multimedia receivers
Features:
Specs:
Height | 0.75 Inches |
Length | 2.88 Inches |
Weight | 0.05 Pounds |
Width | 4.18 Inches |
Size | Maestro Only |
Number of items | 1 |
4. bayite DC 6.5-100V 0-100A LCD Display Digital Current Voltage Power Energy Meter Multimeter Ammeter Voltmeter with 100A Current Shunt
- Test range: Voltage: DC 6.5~100V; Current: 0~100A; Power: 0~10kW; Energy: 0~9999kWh
- Store energy data when power off (can be reset to 0). The blue backlight can be turned on/off manually
- With overload alarm function (If active power is larger than threshold, backlight and power value will flash)
- 4 in 1 meter; Large-screen LCD (displays voltage, current, active power, energy at the same time)
- Warranty:1-year free replacement or full refund without return
Features:
Specs:
Height | 3.54 Inches |
Length | 1.97 Inches |
Width | 0.96 Inches |
5. Joes Racing 32307 (0-60) PSI Tire Pressure Gauge
- Glow in the Dark Face
- Air Pressure Release Button
- 17" Flexible Hose
- Angled & Ball Chuck Included
Features:
Specs:
Height | 1.5 Inches |
Length | 11.5 Inches |
Weight | 0.3 Pounds |
Width | 5.5 Inches |
Release date | October 2012 |
Size | 0-60 PSI |
Number of items | 1 |
6. Nilight GA0004 5Pack 12AWG Inline Wiring Harness 12 Gauge ATC/ATO Automotive Holder with 30A Fuse Blade Standard Plug Socket-5 Pack, 2 Years Warranty
- High quality polyamide cover outside and Red cooper tube inside allow the connectors to Bear high temperature and also has a good ability to conduct electricity
- Waterproof nylon hot-melt adhesive with waterproof gel provides excellent waterproof performance, can be a good connector used in marine and Automotive applications
- Universal type three size options can be used to connect the wires range from 22awg-10awg, 90 PCs Red for 22awg-16awg wires, 90 PCs Blue for 16awg-14awg wires, 20 PCs yellow for 12awg-10awg wires;
- Wire contact Red Copper barrel design increased current flow, and ensures voltage Drop, preventing wiring failures and reducing equipment quit working
- Easy identification Color tube with wire gauge imprint makes it easy to identify the right size of the connector for every application
- Fit Type: Universal Fit
Features:
Specs:
Height | 0.2 Inches |
Length | 5 Inches |
Weight | 0.2 Pounds |
Width | 4 Inches |
Release date | March 2018 |
Size | 5Pack 12AWG Inline Fuse Holder |
Number of items | 1 |
7. Roadpro 12V Fused Replacement Cigarette Lighter Plug with Leads (RPPS-225),Black
- Manufactured with heavy duty 16- gauge copper wire leads
- Includes built-In fused cigarette lighter plug
- Features green LED indicator and finger grip
- Dual spring contacts for maximum conductivity
- Easy installation
- This item was specifically made for CB Radio’s and other low amperage items
- This item includes a 2 amp fuse
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 1 Inches |
Length | 5.8 Inches |
Weight | 0.13 Pounds |
Width | 2.9 Inches |
Release date | January 2019 |
Number of items | 1 |
8. Ginsco Dual USB Charger Socket Power Outlet 2.1A & 2.1A(4.2A) for Car Boat Marine RV Mobile with Wire Fuse DIY Kit Blue LED
10A inline fuses to protect your plugs from being overloaded.Input : 12V, Output : 2 ports 5V - 4.2A ,2.1A each.Drill size : 1.15“(29.2mm)fits most vehicles’ dash panelPackage Included:1 x Dual USB Car Charger Adapter, 1 x 3.3 ft Wire , 2 x Fuse (1 installed ), 2 x Insulated Terminals
Specs:
Color | Blue |
Height | 0.8 Inches |
Length | 5.5 Inches |
Weight | 0.04 Pounds |
Width | 3.5 Inches |
Size | 4.2A |
9. iJDMTOY (1) 2-Pin Electronic LED Flasher Relay Fix For Motorcycle Bike Scooter LED Turn Signal Bulbs Hyper Flash Issue
Part Number: LF1-S-PIN (Size: 1" x 1" x 1")Completely waterproof design and direct replace most OEM two-wire/pin flasherEliminate the need for tapping wires to install the load resistors and allow LED bulbs to blink at the normal rateCompatible with Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki, Yamaha motorcycles and ma...
Specs:
Size | AA1182 FL1 w/ Adapter |
Number of items | 1 |
10. 10 Pack - EPAuto 12V Car Add-a-circuit Fuse TAP Adapter Mini ATM APM Blade Fuse Holder
Protect original circuitPlug into an existing fuse holderHeavy Duty 16 Gauge Red Color Wire15 AMP Fuse x 10Add-a-circuit Fuse x 10
11. WILSON 305-38 300-Watt Little Wil Magnet Mount Antenna
- 300 Watts Power Handling Capability (ICAS)
- Large 10 oz magnet
- Heavy-Duty Coil Uses 14-Gauge Copper Wire
- 36" 17-7 PH Stainless Steel Whip Base Load Antenna
- Made with High Impact Thermoplastic. Low Loss Coil Design
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 37.5 Inches |
Length | 5 Inches |
Width | 6 Inches |
Release date | March 2019 |
Number of items | 1 |
12. uxcell Car Charger Power Female Cigarette Lighter Socket Plug Adapter with 26cm Cable
Material(External) : Plastic, Metal;Product Name : Car Cigarette Lighter Socket;Color : Black, Red;Body Dimension : 64 x 29mm/ 2.5" x 1.1"(L*D)Weight : 45g;Cable Length : 26cm / 10.2"Enables you for conversion of car/cigarette lighter power supply to be used with a wall power supply.
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 1.18 Inches |
Length | 4.33 Inches |
Weight | 0.04 Pounds |
Width | 3.94 Inches |
13. BESTEK 12V 24V Extension Cord Plug Socket with Battery Clamp, 3.9ft/1.2m 16AWG Battery Clip-On Car Cigarette Lighter Adapter
Clips directly hook to the car vehicle battery to use high-power appliances, protect the car cigarette lighter. Red to postive and black to negative.Manufactured to power 12V and 24V appliances. 16AWG, clamps made of copper, brand new and high qualityPower LED indicator, can let you know the power i...
Specs:
Color | old version |
Weight | 0.6 Pounds |
14. FIAMM 72112 Freeway Blaster Low Note Horn
- FIAMM AM80SX LOW note two terminal Freeway Blaster features aluminum coil motor, corrosion resistant steel housing and an ABS plastic projector.
- FIAMM horn package Includes: Universal mounting bracket, jumper wire, nut and female connectors
- Each FIAMM horn is tested to assure maximum performance and exceeds SAE and OEM specifications
- FIAMM horn can be installed on any vehicle, UTV, ATV, or Motorcycle
- Fiamm two terminal horn, 12 volt (max amp draw 6) produces 133 decibels at 4 inch
Features:
Specs:
Color | Multi |
Height | 5 Inches |
Length | 24.5 Inches |
Width | 8 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
15. SMAKN 12V 5A Female Car Cigar Cigarette Lighter Socket Plug Connector Adapter
100% brand new and high quality.It has about 35cm long cable, Red color cable is Positive, Black color cable is Negative.It can be used for 12V 5A power, Never have any overheat problems.
16. HELLA H31000001 Sharptone 12V High Tone / Low Tone Twin Horn Kit with Yellow Protective Grill, Includes Relay, 2 Horns,Yellow/Set
HELLA's ultra reliable loud and powerful Dual Sharptone Horns look and sound like nothing else on the road. These horns guarantee the attention needed in every situation.HELLA Sharptone horns guarantee best functionality, optimum fit and long lasting customer satisfaction.Original equipment quality ...
Specs:
Color | Yellow/Set |
Height | 4.92 Inches |
Length | 5.63 Inches |
Weight | 1.79 Pounds |
Width | 4.92 Inches |
Release date | July 2018 |
Number of items | 1 |
17. MICTUNING MIC-B1002 LED Light Bar Wiring Harness, Fuse 40A Relay On-off Waterproof Switch
- MICTUNING MIC-B1002 wiring harness kit with Waterproof Red on/off toggle switch and easy to install.
- Details Makes Perfect:adopt flexible strand copper wire,up to 180 watt load capacity.It is universal fit for any 7" 10" 12" 20" 30" 40" light bars that is within 180w.
- Great Construction:40A Power Relay and Inline Blade Fuse for multiple safety protection.With 2 lights output connections,it can hook with 2 led work light or 2 small watt led light bar and any else off road LEDs.
- 10FT Extendable Wiring Harness:up to 10ft of wiring that is plenty of length to put it where you want.
- CAUTIONs: We recommend professional installation,pls let professinal installer to wire the harness kit; If let the wire short circuit,the harness would melt and even caught a fire,We suggest that wrap all exposed wire with electrical tape to avoid a short circuit; Pls make sure your light within power 180W, or it would got melt as well.
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 2.5 Inches |
Length | 6 Inches |
Weight | 0.5 Pounds |
Width | 3 Inches |
Size | Wiring Harness Kit(max.180W) |
18. Qiorange 12v Car Add-a-circuit Fuse TAP Adapter Mini ATM APM Blade Fuse Holder Pack of 5
- Allows quick and easy installation of additional 12V accessories without the need for splicing.
- ATM Mini Add-A-Circuit Fuse Holders
- These fit the new smaller, ATM Mini Fuses are used in newer vehicles and any place where space is limited.
- Plugs into an existing fuse holder. Protects original circuit and provides a wire lead for the new circuit.
- allows for extra clearance. For use with ATM Mini blade fuses.
Features:
Specs:
Color | #1 5Pcs |
19. Xtenzi Replacement Radio Removal Key Set Compatible with Audi/VW/Mercedes Car Stereos - XT91402
Xtenzi replacement In-dash radio removal key tool compatible with Select Audi/VW/Mercedes ModelsStrong Steel: The removal keys are made from thick metal in order to ensure they won’t bend or break in the middle of a jobPerfect Fit: Unlike most stereo removal tools, these removal tools feature is r...
20. Nilight 120 Pcs/60 Pairs Quick Splice Wire Terminals T-Tap Self-stripping with Nylon Fully Insulated Male Quick Disconnects Kit, 2 Years Warranty
- Self-Stripping electrical tap connectors - Nilight self-stripping electrical t-tap connectors makes tapping into an existing wire a quick and easy job
- Versatile kit - 60 piece T-Tap Wire Connectors plus 60 piece; Male Quick Disconnects will last for numerous wiring projects. Marine, automotive, scientific, home wiring projects - you name it
- Thick tinned copper contacts - Thicker tinned copper contacts provide maximum conductivity and prevents the wire from shorting out efficiently
- Quality t-tap connector housing - Quick splice T-Tap connectors will securely lock on the wire. Plastic housing will not open after it has been snapped on the wire
- Perfectly fitting male quick disconnects - Nylon male disconnects have been designed to lock tightly on the T-Tap connectors to prevent sliding out
Features:
Specs:
Height | 5 Inches |
Length | 4 Inches |
Weight | 0.44 Pounds |
Width | 0.2 Inches |
Size | 120 Pcs |
Number of items | 1 |
🎓 Reddit experts on automotive electrical replacement parts
The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where automotive electrical replacement parts are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Best advice is to keep it simple. Focus on brakes and tires first! Do some basic setup and then recognize while you are on track when you are at the limit of your basic setup, then go from there.
You already have SS brake lines, good! Fill them with good 600°F brake fluid (several were mentioned already). Do this every few events and be meticulous about doing it RIGHT and making sure there are NO LEAKS. Safety first! This and pads are your #1 safety item. Then an instructor, then good tires, helmet, seat belts, etc. Again, keep it simple.
Parts:
Use whatever rotors are on the car for now, and buy a set of these as backup whenever htey start to warp: Centric 120.40048CRY Cryostop Rotor
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003K1H2V6
Brake Pads, order a set of Hawk HP+ pads. You will get advice all over the board on what is best and blah blah blah. These are great bang for your buck and you can street them as well.
Hawk Performance HB361N.622 HP Plus Brake Pad
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IEYNOM
Fronts are most important, do all 4 corners once you start to get comfortable with the car and/or go to a bigger track.
Think you're done with brakes? NOPE! Now let's talk heat. You're just starting to go on the track and want to be out for as long as possible to work on consistency and technique. If you're going to do any sizeable track with big braking zones you will want some way to keep the brakes cool. A lot of people poo-poo this step and then complain about how the stock brakes suck SO bad. I have had my s2k on CoTA, Road America, and BIR with zero brake fade with the setup I'm describing.
Option one: remove the dust shields, this will help reduce captivated heat
Option two: brake duct kit. DIY worked best for me:
-Lambert spindle mounts: http://www.lapponline.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65_66_67&products_id=180
-Front Bumper inlets. WASP makes nice stuff but they SUCK to deal with and idk if they're even in business anymore. Several other options out there.
-Aircraftspruce.com has all the ducts and such you need:
Qty Ship B/O Item Unit Price Total Price
11 05-29910 SCAT-10 DUCTING 2 1/2" 7.500 82.50
6 QS200-40H BREEZE CLAMP 200-40H 1.880 11.28
1 01-00990 RESCUE TAPE 1" X 12' BLACK 9.350 9.35 (helps with rubbing)
3 05-02200 RUBBER "U" CHANNEL 1.350 4.05
50 11-04229 7" 50LB NATURAL CABLE TIES MS3367-1-9 0.040 2.00
50 11-13475 14" 120LB NATURAL CABLE TIES MS3367-3-9 0.150 7.50
50 11-04058 14" 50LB NATURAL CABLE TIES MS3367-2-9 0.090 4.50
Subtotal: USD 121.18
Ok great, now you have good brakes, you already said you have RS3 tires on there, buy a nice tire gauge and keep an eye on pressures & tire wear!
Joes Racing 32307
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00404WDUC
While you're at it, check the oil. Seriously, these things can (but don't necessarily) burn through a lot of oil depending on conditions and the track. Just keep an eye on it and plan for keeping an eye on it. Not a bad thing.
Get a good basic alignment on the car, max out the stock adjusters for camber front and rear, zero toe front and about .25" total toe in the rear, then you're good to go! If you are feeling DIY-ish pick up a Quick Trick alignment kit to bust this out quick and easy in your garage or at the track.
Once you get comfy with the car however you have it setup today suspension/wheel-wise, you can start to look at a few next-steps. Do all of these at the same time as its the combo that shines over any one part.
-lowering springs/coilovers (I did ohlins, so awesome)
-front swaybar (A simple eibach will do!)
-front bumpsteer correction kit/spacers
-17x8.5 or 17x9 square wheel setup with 255/40-17 tires. RS3's, Maxxis, VR1, are great lapping-day options. RE71R for quick/short/fast hot laps.
1 rule: HAVE FUN!
I got my Helix sub installed close to 2 months ago, here's where I got everything (tax and shipping excluded):
That was my best attempt at saving money when I did it. The sites that claim $300 or so where when they cleared inventory of the previous revision and then released B. Couldn't find a better combination of discounts and rebates.
These 4 videos were all I needed to install it, there's overlap between them. Video 1, video 2, video 3, video 4.
I had a MK7 with the Fender system but totaled it, replaced with a MK7.5 without Fender (SE). Helix is better (a little more powerful), so nothing to envy on Fender, although Fender has the advantages of not having to deal with any of the installation and retaining the lower floor with a spare.
There is /r/cbradio, but I pretty much just googled everything. I bought these items and I'm pretty happy with them:
Uniden 520XL - Nice, small, cheap radio
Cigarette Lighter Power Adapter
K40 Magnet Mount Antennae with wiring - it is 15 feet of wire so that should be enough to go from the trunk lid to your dash.
SWR tester - this is to test your SWR and make sure the antennae is tuned properly, it also comes with a jumper wire to connect to your radio
If you need help with anything let me know. The CB has been very helpful on I-75, but on Daniels in Fort Myers and Golden Gate Parkway in Naples I have not had any success getting traffic updates etc. which I expected, but it's definitely super helpful on the interstate.
I just upgraded the lights on my kawasaki, so I got all this worked out.
For the fast/4-way flashing issues, I can't say if they will effect your bike. I have a feeling they will, and if they do you know how to address them. All in this upgrade runs about 90 bucks, minus 17 if you decide to stick with halogen rear turn signals.
​
Good lord that's a long post
The other option is to just plug in a power strip if you don't need permanent installed outlets. If you are going to permanently install the outlets the wiring should be SJO cable to circuit breaker, circuit breaker to all outlets.
https://rvpartsexpress.com/product/20-amp-gfci-stand-alone-circuit-breaker/
7.https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Terminals-Self-stripping-Insulated-Disconnects/dp/B07CP987BN/
T-taps and some spade connectors would be the easiest way, otherwise it'll be a lot of cutting and soldering. If you go with t taps you can mix the colors of the connectors. It'll likely be a yellow tap on the 12 gauge trunk line, and the LED positive will get a red spade connector to plug into the yellow tap. The spades themselves are all the same size, so use the right color connector for each individual wire.
Other comments: the wires coming from the charge controller to batteries only needs to support 40 amps. They can be 8 gauge and fused at 40 amps, not 150. Your wire from battery to fuse block can be 8 gauge as well. I only see 25 amps of accessories in the block, and you'll likely never run all of them at once. So an 8 gauge supply and ground line with a 40 or 50 amp inline fuse will give you plenty of room to add more accessories later while being safe.
Edit: make sure you buy twisted strand copper wiring and not aluminum clad or solid core. Best spot for the thicker wiring is car audio stores or search amazon for stereo amp installation kits. If you go to home Depot for 0 gauge wire it'll be rigid and hard to work with, the car stereo wiring is super flexible.
Edit 2: you may want to consider adding a battery management system after the isolator. They make many variations, some that include the isolator function as well. Some allow you to program a maximum current for charging the lifepo4, which will make it easier to judge wire size for that run. The big benefit though is that a standard car alternator will only charge lithium batteries about 75% because it's regulated to about 14.2 volts. That's what the lead acid battery expects for charging. The lithium needs 14.7 or more to charge fully. So adding the bms will allow the lithiums to fully charge while driving, otherwise you'll have to rely on the solar for the last 25% of the charge. Just make sure to program the charge controller for lithium batteries.
God I hope this formats correctly - I am a neophyte.
Exhaust - http://www.ixilusa.com/ixil-l3xb-black-hyperlow-xl-full-exhaust-yamaha-mt-07-2014-2015/
Super deep and loud sound - videos online don't do it justice, its unbelievably loud when the baffles are out. Had to have the cat cut out of it. Be aware they have a cat in the V section before the end of the pipe.
Removed the snorkel covering the airbox - I was told its basically blocks airflow.
ECU Flash / Dyno by 2wheelDynoWorks - https://2wheeldynoworks.com/shop/ecu-flashing-service/15-17-yamaha-fz07-mail-in-ecu-flashing-service/
Nels himself worked on my bike - super stoked (shout out to Nate too) They have the best customer service.
Active Tune - https://2wheeldynoworks.com/shop/ecu-flashing-service/yamaha-activetune-afr-closed-loop-self-tuning-ecu-kit-2/
Tune as you go
Bike side harness - https://2wheeldynoworks.com/shop/ecu-flashing-service/ftlink-v1-1-6-pin-bike-side-harnesses/
For tuning later
Windscreen - https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/puig-touring-naked-new-generation-windscreen-yamaha-mt-07-2018
I got light smoke, I think it goes better with the bike and pushes wind over my shoulders even at 80+ mph
Protection - https://tstindustries.com/Womet-Tech-Total-Crash-Protection-Pack-for-Yamaha-FZ-07-MT-07-2015.html
Basically got everything from this except the bar ends
Bar Ends - https://motostarz.com/collections/mt-07-2018/products/rhinomoto-barends-mirror-mounts-for-yamaha-fz-mt-models
Super easy to replace mirrors etc with these - and they add protection
Throttle tube - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005C59NO2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
90 to 60 degree conversion - its amazing for the price
Dash Screen Protector - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078SMP4ND/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Mirror stem deletes - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BN8QGPV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Current Mirrors - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N6GB7DZ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Mirrors in photo - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003RESHVU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I like the CRG Mirrors but they get bumped and are hard to readjust - the cheap ebay/amazon mirrors work great
Headlight replacement - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H6NZ5QW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Signal replacement LED bulbs - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XK4PL33/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Super bright replacements for stock bulbs - used the original housings, they plug right in
Running light LED replacements - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JRE38EA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
For inside the headlight housing
Tail Tidy - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BH5YGOM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Flasher Relay for LEDs - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RM26LXO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Levers - https://www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-Brake-Clutch-Yamaha-MT-07-FZ-07-2014-2018-Adjustable-Engrave-Long-Lever/123350737715?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3D17a37c1b2d204ffcba65903d19a97b4a%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D122997203335%26itm%3D123350737715&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
Passenger peg deletes - https://www.ebay.com/itm/for-YAMAHA-MT07-FZ07-Footrest-Cover-Passenger-Footpeg-Removal-Delete-Kit-2014/253869999740?hash=item3b1bd4c67c:g:3qEAAOSw0JVbm1FQ:rk:1:pf:0
I removed the passenger pegs, needed a bracket to hold the brake fluid reservoir - also cleaned up the pegs
Havent done the brakes yet - going to replace the lines etc with steel braid.
Also want to do a sprocket / chain swap for acceleration
I used a quadlock phone mount for a little bit - but took it off because I was playing with my phone too much.
For the head unit I used a Pioneer 4200nex (this head unit is pretty much the same as the 8200nex(which is the top of the line head unit) but without the navigation. There really isn't a need for that feature since this head unit supports Android Auto and Apple Car Play, they both use their own maps)
For the dash kit I used the ADS MUS1 Radio Installation Kit (if you decide to go with this kit, the wire harness is already included inside the box)
Then I used the iDatalink Maestro ADS-MRR module so they would all communicate with each other, that also took care of the A/C, steering wheel controls and will also connect to the ODB2.
I did not install this myself, but the installer told me that it wasn't too difficult, and it was his first time installing this kit/radio into a mustang.
I love it!!! It was worth the all the money I spent!
edit: if you have anymore questions, feel free to ask :)
For budget mods, the best bang for the buck in my opinion is lighting. Its nice to be able to see where you're going. The headlights on your Cherokee use H6054 sealed beams. Many people replace those sealed beams with composite headlights which allow the user to replace the bulb inside of the housing. That opens you up to a myriad of bulb choices. Be sure that whatever housings you get are DOT approved. Most of the stuff you see on eBay and Amazon are for offroad or show use only, not designed to be used on roads. That's because many of them have not been through the testing procedure of the department of transportation. If you run headlights that are not DOT approved, you could get pulled over for it or fail your safety inspection if your state does inspections.
The best way to increase the lighting on the front of your Cherokee is to either buy or make a relay harness for the headlights. From the factory, the voltage goes through the headlight switch and out to the headlights. The length of wire, thickness of wire, and condition of the switch can negatively affect the delivery of power to your lights. Only a small drop in voltage can have very noticeable effects on the output of the lights. The fix is to utilize relays to draw power directly off of the battery and feed that power to your lights. All the factory wiring stays in place and is used to trigger relays rather than supply power to the lights directly. Here is a link you can follow if you want to make one yourself. http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoHeadlightLoom.htm If you'd rather buy one, many Cherokee drivers are going with one made by Putco. http://www.amazon.com/Putco-230004HW-Premium-Automotive-Lighting/dp/B001P29X4G Some of the reviews of that product specifically talk about using it on Cherokees.
Buying a kit, following the directions, and watching a couple of youtube videos showing how to install it will be a pretty simple project for you and not cost a lot of money.
Other budget mods include mixing and matching of parts with other Jeeps you'll find at the junk yard. The tie rod from a ZJ (1993-1998 Grand Cherokee) with the V8 engine is thicker and more sturdy than the tie rod that comes on a Cherokee. It'll fit and gives you increased strength. The control arms from WJ Grand Cherokees (1999-2004) are fully boxed instead of the U channel of our XJ's control arms and are bent inward to accommodate wider tires without rubbing.
Hey y'all! Some of you asked about mods so here is a full list of what I have done so far with links.
Radiator guard - Has a nice little FZ-07 etched at the bottom.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075MCXCM7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Shorty levers - Mine are gray but they come in lots of colors.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0197N3KA2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Bar end mirrors - You can find these for less but I chose these because the reviews indicated that they might be better quality than others.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Q3UL6S6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Yoshimura fender eliminator - Kinda pricey for what it is but it looks really nice.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T6J9IM2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Motodynamic integrated tail light - I also looked at the TST but after looking at some videos decided on this one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015NN3YUG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Proton 500 flush mount LED - These things are brighter than the sun. You can also change the signal pattern which I thought was cool.
http://www.hightechspeed.com/products/Proton500/yamaha.html
Flasher relay - Prevents hyper flash and let me get rid of resistors.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RM26LXO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Stompgrip volcano black - I really like these and they have great grip. You can also get them in clear from their website if that's your thing.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018NH74BE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Akrapovic TI - This exhaust sounds sweet, I also purchased the CAT for it through cyclegear.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L44J56G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Other mods that i'm considering in the future
Stainless Steel braided brake lines, FTECU on the bike flash kit, T-Rex Racing no cut combo.
Bonus - https://i.redd.it/en8vfnpv46u01.jpg
It's cost and benefit thing. There are more electricity heavy appliances now than in 76 and have the opportunity to covert propane appliances to electricity. I have a dedicated 20 amp circuit in my kitchen area and my fridge, microwave, and induction cooktop, and ice maker runs while another 20 amp dedicated service in my bathroom runs the dual mode 10 gallon water heater. I haven't used any propane this year at all. If my wife used blow dryer at the same time, it won't trip the circuit. I do have 2 ACs, also on their own dedicated circuit but that I concede was an overkill... We simply never needed 2 this year. But if we ever do, I can run both at the same time while everything else is running without fear of tripping any circuit. It's the difference of having 30 amp available and 100 amp available.
The cost of conversion was very reasonable. The biggest expense was a [Progressive Dynamics converter panel] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UC8PN0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) at $282 but I'd have to purchase a new converter panel for 30 amp anyway since I scraped the crappy 2 circuit one that the Airstream came with. 25 ft of 50 amp RV power cord was $100. Both of these I was going to replace so the true cost is actually less than the total. Add to this the circuit breakers and that's the cost of upgrading 30 amp to 50 amp. Just the peace of mind to run anything at anytime was worth it. The induction hot plate heats faster than propane and I have the peace of mind of not having an open flame inside, especially with 2 little kids. The Dometic dual mode water heater is great. I usually have the Airstream parked at home for a day before we leave and I preheat the water then and when we arrive at a campsite, the water takes maybe another hour to heat to hot with electricity and keeps up with usage while camping. We have another hot plate and electric grill we set up outside, plugged to the outside outlet (shared with interior AC circuit) and those run fine while everything inside is running. I did go a little crazy with the inside outlets... I think I have 16 or 17 outlets inside but hardly anything is plugged in that circuit other than TVs. Small electronic devices are connected to the 12 v system using 12v to 5v [USB sockets] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N6S2SNM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1). I have about 8 of those.
Anyway, 50 amp gives you flexibility at not a very high cost. Even if I'm reno'ing a Bambi, I'd still put in 50 amp.
$83.94 IPF housings
$20.98 Hella H4 55/100W
$27.34 Putco harness
$14.56 Backup relays
$146.82 for a sharp cutoff and much more light on the road, and an incredible high beam, delivered in two days if you have an Amazon Prime membership. I bet you use high beams a lot now, but you'll probably rarely feel the need to use them on the road with this setup.
$147.99 for a 50 inch light bar. Even though the headlights offer a lot of light, having extra flood would be great when off road. I don't actually have this yet, but I plan on buying it as a reward for getting some work done on my XJ. Mine is still new to me, and I haven't yet had the time to earn it yet.
Less than $300 and two days for an incredible amount of light output.
If I don't buy that light bar, it's because I'm getting a Cree light bar with XP/XT or XM emitters that I'll be upgrading...I'm on the hunt for a light bar that uses XTE emitters like this light because output can greatly be increased by swapping in XP-L's, and more than doubled if power can be increased. That mod is more of a hobbyist thing than an attempt to save money, and not all of them would be done anyway since it'd sacrifice some throw for flood.
/u/VeryCleverMoose okay, so this is the aux/30-pin cord that I bought and this is the adapter you need to go with it. There are dozens of things on amazon that are virtually the same, you just have to look through the reviews and questions and usually people say what it fits. Also, you will need a set of radio removal keys, I paid a few extra for ones that don't bend so easily here.
Tutorial:
Hey, thanks!
I'm going to go into detail on the equipment I bought with my next video (and I've got a really fascinating powerpoint presentation where I try to explain a little electrical theory without putting everyone to sleep). I'll answer your question here though:
I started with a kit that came with the wires you're asking about. The solar panels have those short (2 or 3 feet) wires that end with what's called an MC4 connector. The wires have the MC4 connector on one end, and a bare wire on the other. The MC4 is a weatherproof, snap-on connector.
For the second panel, I had to get the MC4-tipped cables separately. From browsing YouTube, it looks like you can save some money by buying the connectors alone and splicing them onto a wire. I didn't feel like messing with this.
I got all my stuff on Amazon. Here's the list:
The parts for my installation came out to a little over $400.
Hope that helps! :)
I have the K30 on top of my Camry now.
It's a 35" antenna: Shorter than the Firestiks, K40, and the same-ish length as the "Lil Wil."
Even that is pushing the height, as I have to stop and take my antenna off before going into many parking garages now (I just unscrew the antenna from the mount and stash it inside the car). If you don't want to have to do that, figure out what your maximum height is going to be for the places you're likely to go, and then stay under that when choosing an antenna. You won't get as good performance as if you had a full-length antenna... but you'll probably get good enough and you've already decided you're not mounting an 8.5 foot antenna so it's moot.
You could have a slightly longer antenna if you mounted it to your trunk, than to your roof. Different people will tell you differently about whether that's going to help at all and I'm not a radio engineer so I can't help you there. With that in mind, most of the antennae suggested so far would probably work for your form factor (amazon links chosen at random, for illustrative purposes only):
With my 35" antenna around 7 feet in the air, powered by my 4-watt car radio, the longest I've skipped a clear conversation is ~1,348 miles (and I receive from all of the US, southern Canada, and Hawaii). I don't have a decent measure of the line-of-sight range yet as there seem to be precious few locals around where I live.
I note that it looks like the Firestiks are often sold separately from their mounts, whereas the Lil' Wil and K30/40 come with everything you need (antenna, mount, coax).
Heated seats...sounds like you got the Mazda 3s Grand Touring. Assuming you have the factory HID's and LED tail lights, so no need to upgrade those. Unless you can find the clear projector lens to swap into your headlights.
Summer tires, if you live in the right climate. Extremely durable, better performing, and with better ride quality Koni FSD dampers as the OEM ones fail/leak prematurely. OEM big brake kit. Lots of advantages to this versus an aftermarket braking solution.
Do you have the manual transmission? OEM leather and piano black shift knob from European markets. OEM heated side view mirrors if not equipped, which I've found to clear away fog and rain pretty quickly. The Corksport Mazda3/Mazdaspeed3 steering wheel looks really, really good and almost OEM (black inserts/black stitching). Aftermarket HVAC knobs.
Speaking of rain, Valeo 900 Series/Ultimate wipers for a cleaner & more premium OEM look. Did the +1 driver/-1 passenger mod and lowered the passenger/right side windshield wiper to a more tucked position, and it won't flap at very high speeds or windy conditions.
LED interior/exterior lights - For the trunk, get this in the 5K color. For your license plate and front map lights, get these in the 5K color. Haven't found any rear dome festoon/DE3175 LED bulbs that I'm happy with yet (VLEDS, Retrofit Source, ijdmtoy, superbrightleds, Corksport, etc). Not bright enough, not white enough (usually a blue tint), bleeds different colors, etc. I may try an interior set from GTA Retrofits. For your glove box, either this in 5,000K or a Sylvania/Philips/Osram 194 LED bulb in 6,000K. Went with the latter since they were left over from experimentation and are actually closer to a 5,000-5,500K, even though they're listed as 6,000K.
Fiamm low tone horn to compliment the wimpy high tone.
There's more but that's all I have time for =)
EASY! you can do the install yourself ALL those Chrysler RES NON boston radios are nothing special. i done a FULL system in my 2012 200 (dual amps, new speakers, head unit and subwoofer). Right so head over to amazon or crutchfeild.
for a new radio you'll need a idatalink RR module and CH-1 plug and play harness to retain your steering wheel buttons.
for your dash kit to fit a new radio you have 2 options. SINGLE DIN: Best Kits BKCDK644 DOUBLE DIN: Best Kits BKCDK642 Since you want a touch screen you need the double din kit
SPEAKERS: Doors and rear deck are 6x9s and dash are 3.5's. for the doors NO ADAPTERS ARE NEEDED and MOST 3.5's for the dash wont need mounting adapters either. But check on crutchfied for fit as the real nice chunky woofers dont fit. But Rockford Fosgate PUNCH, Infinity reference, Kenwood Excelon and Focal Integration will drop right in if you just cut the plastic "cup" the original speakers sit in.
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you do have to pop the door panels off to get to the speakers and the dash speakers you have to take the A-pillar trim pieces off. rear deck the rear seat needs folded down and more C-pillar plastic trim popped off. theres better guides online then i can describe on a text post.
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the best buy free installation probably doesnt include the smart harness required to swap out the factory radio
I would buy this,
http://www.amazon.com/Slime-COMP03-12-Volt-Inflator-Gauge/dp/B000ET9SAU/ref=sr_1_12?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1448980138&sr=1-12&keywords=slime+air+pump
and
http://www.amazon.com/Slime-2040-A-Tire-Plug-Kit/dp/B000ET9SAA/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1448980761&sr=1-5&keywords=tire+plug+kit
In the plug kit your really buying those T handles, there nice and wont try to fold into your hand or away from it while you plug the tire. You can buy I think it's 40 plugs stand alone at walmart for around 5 bucks if you find yourself plugging tires that much.
Then buy a metal jar of rubber cement because that little tube is going to work once and get rock hard.
http://www.amazon.com/Slime-1050-Rubber-Cement-oz/dp/B003V9UU66/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1448981382&sr=8-5&keywords=rubber+cement
Any will do that's just what I found on amazon.
That's the same air pump I own except I dont think mine says 300 PSI on the side, I would be extremely surprised if it could actually reach 300 psi but I can tell you for a fact it'll air a tire up in a less than 10 minutes.
http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Cigarette-Lighter-Lengthened-Extension/dp/B00JOY6U7U
This may be worth while as well incase your cigarette lighter doesnt work or blows a fuse you could just clip directly to your car battery.
As far as a phone charger I just mean use a phone charger that plugs in your cigarette lighter, I dont trust those little power bricks. Even if your car battery is "Dead" as in it wont turn your engine over and clicks, it's probably still got more than enough juice to charge your phone and make a call for help.
I would splurge for these nice jumper cables
http://www.amazon.com/Cartman-Booster-Cable-Gauge-Listed/dp/B00VHE76GE/ref=lp_15719941_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1448981135&sr=1-1
That comes up to 132 dollars in my amazon cart, I think that puts you much better off than the alternative you were looking at at a reasonable price.
I lived on a dirt road for years, Holes in my tires were Common and I don't think I ever broke out my spare.
The Uniden 520 is a great choice for a basic radio. I've been using one for years with excellent results. It's really hard to beat for the size/money.
Consider the K30 magnet mount antenna for an alternative in that size.
I've used both it and the Little Wil and found the K30 to perform noticeably better. It's also less expensive:
http://www.amazon.com/K40-K-30-Stainless-Magnet-Antenna/dp/B000H2W270/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417900765&sr=8-2&keywords=K30
The other commenter that suggested getting an SWR meter is also correct. These antennas all require some degree of adjustment for optimal performance. Just a basic meter will work fine.
http://www.amazon.com/Astatic-PDC1-100-Watt-Meter/dp/B004ULN610/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417900872&sr=8-1&keywords=SWR+meter
And the jumper:
http://www.amazon.com/Procomm-Coaxial-Cable-Jumper-Connectors/dp/B003DRJ738/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_text_y
The meter and jumper is something you'll very rarely need (just when moving the setup to a different vehicle, for the most part) so if you husband has a friend into CB or HAM operation, he may be able to borrow one for a few minutes rather than buying.
Finally, you'll need some way to power the radio. The easiest way is with a lighter plug:
http://www.amazon.com/Roadpro-Fused-Replacement-Cigarette-Lighter/dp/B0016LG0CY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417901045&sr=8-1&keywords=lighter+plug
Just cut the connectors off the ends of the wires and splice it with the ones on the radio.
Alternatively, you can connect to the fuse box with an Add-A-Circuit. These come in different sizes depending on the fuses in your car. You can get one of these for less than $10 at any auto parts store.
Nice work, this is like a bigger, better version of my light with 1' Q strips and a mix of spectrum. I also oversized mine some, 150 watts total in a 2'x2', and have it so I can turn on and off each group. I'm using just regular switches for the groups and I have to adjust the pot manually to keep the power where I wanted it using one of these to measure. Did you go a more advanced route? I'm working on upgrading and controlling everything via an arduino and using relays to turn the light groups on/off and for autowatering and a digital potentiometer for the % power.
I finished one grow with my light at full power in flower, but ~40 watts are side lighting, 10 watts per corner. My light is only around 10"-12" from the tops, and the side lights are only a few inches away. I didn't see any big advantage to the side light, I'm not sure if I'm going to keep them, but I'm using them again this grow. Maybe I'll move 2 up top and keep 2 low and see what the different sides look like.
I'm curious to try to learn more about if this is wasted energy and if so, how to tell
I got great results out of the stock headlights by simply upgrading the wiring. I ordered one of these Putco harnesses intending to upgrade the bulbs later, but I got enough a big enough boost in light that I haven't found the need to upgrade the lights themselves.
If you decide to upgrade the bulbs, I'd recommend a more reliable harness, but this is a cheap/quick alternative.
Good luck!
I can answer the dashcam wiring for you. Best way that I have found is to use a fuse tap like this.
http://www.amazon.com/Qiorange--circuit-Adapter-Blade-Holder/dp/B015GYN38A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1464329991&sr=8-2&keywords=fuse+tap
You will also need the appropriate fuse for that particular dashcam. And you will need a 12V to 5V converter for the dashcam. Like this.
http://www.amazon.com/Dash-Camera-Vehicle-Hard-Wire/dp/B00MH4ZVHO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464330070&sr=8-1&keywords=dash+cam+wire
PS: Best part about this one is that you can install an inline fuse, which is much easier to find an appropriate rated fuse than it is with the automotive fuses.
A headlight harness will help a lot. H4 conversion housing like the ones made by Hella (I have the e-code) will be amazing.
I highly recommend against getting cheap flea-bay junk like those Cree lights. Spend the money on quality parts for your own safety and others on the road.
I understand where you're coming from for the integrated tail light deal. I prefer to have my flashing indicators be as obvious as possible. They're not there for any other purpose but to announce that I'm doing shit I want other people noticing I'm doing, you know? I am thinking of installing a BackOff unit to flicker my brake light though. Do miss that from my old VStar 1100 I'd put one on. Anything useful to help raise awareness of my presence helps.
I did swap the relay on mine, it was something like $11 on Amazon as well. (Edit:This one here for $10.99) Easy plug-and-play swap. It's right by the battery, just pop your seat off and there it is.
I made a Boombox out of a pair of coaxials I had laying around
pic
Amp
spectrum analyzer
6.5s
solar panel
buck converter
battery mount
I have a surplus of m12 tool batteries as well as some coaxials laying around I figured I’d make a portable speaker
With solar panels most output well over 18 volts. Which is fine for that amplifier but not for the battery. With a buck converter it takes it down to a more useable voltage for the lithium batteries.
If you wanted to run something like this on grid power you would need something like this I had planned on getting a 12 volt power supply like the one here later for home use but since with one 9AH lithium battery I have well over 12 hours of listening before the battery needs to be recharged/ swapped out.
Edit: also using this to monitor solar output
I would suggest following the linked guide with a few changes / notes below : https://www.fiat500owners.com/threads/how-to-2012-fiat-500-double-din-radio-install.7412/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012F8RC1Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You will make an account and flash the firmware to the appropriate car make/year and head unit model.
I've only installed a basic 1 DIN stereo on my old 2013 500. I suggested the above head unit and wiring harness because I've installed that on my 2017 500 and had great results. Best of luck.
It's really, really easy to add your own ambient lighting to the Focus (or any car really). Most LED strips are already 12v. They'd need an adapter from house wall power but in a car (the vast majority of them anyway) the 12V circuits are already there! If you're concerned about your own electrical knowledge they make kits too; they're pretty inexpensive and you could splice open that cigarette adapter line to wire it in directly or get something like this. Personally I'd buy my own strips, controllers, and hard wire it though (make sure you confirm controller works with your strip). Since you're in the footwell I'd also recommend weatherproof but it's not super necessary since it won't be directly exposed.
You could tap in to an accessory line/fuse to have them always on or get fancy and wire them in to the dash lighting for when the headlights are on so that they only come on at night. I just used these fuse taps the other day for a dash cam and radar detector install; make sure you have the right fuses for your install though. I had to pickup some lower amperage ones to properly protect my lower amperage gear.
Some LED strip lighting is easy to adhere or screw down depending on your preference and you can even get RGB and an IR/RF/bluetooth controller to customize.
Anyway, the whole thing should take nothing more than an hour or two and less than $100 in parts.
Here's what you do for an ideal dashcam installation:
POWER CABLE OPTION A (quick and sloppy)
POWER CABLE OPTION B (looks like it came that way from the factory)
No, they won't be able to help you. Unlock procedure on a mk4 is pump wedge and long reach to hit the door lock button. I'd pondered using the long reach to grab the hood release, but those are pretty stiff and require a lot of torque to pull so I doubt it would work.
You may get lucky with the following, though. Since you can access the trunk you can access the 12v power socket in the trunk, get something with a cigarette lighter adapter and hack the plug end off, connect the positive and negative leads to a low amperage battery charger (the wiring for that socket isn't very robust, no more than say 10A output on the charger) and plug the charger in, then connect the cigarette plug into the 12v socket in the trunk.
If you don't have anything with a cigarette plug end, use this.
Give it an hour or so and you should have enough juice to articulate the locks using either the fob, or holding the key in the door all the way to the left or right for a couple seconds. That should get you in. Of course, I -know- this socket is live even with key off on my 2002, it's likely the same on your 2001, but they are also VW's so... there's that. Make sure you have the correct polarity as well on your plug end, center post is always positive, if unsure test with a multi meter or you're gonna have a bigger problem to contend with. Just be mindful, and it should work ok.
Edit: I've since looked in an older unlock book once I arrived to work, it IS possible to pop the rear doors using a rod linkage tool, but I'd still wager a cheap cord and a cheap charger would do the job just as fast as a roadside club, and for much less in cost.
So easy and so worth it. When you install an aux battery, change the power source for your van's inverter to it.
Isolator Relay: https://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SGP38-80-AMP-Battery-Isolator/dp/B001HC6UJ0
AGM Battery: https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C or Something comparable
Voltage monitor (very helpful!): www.amazon.com/bayite-6-5-100V-Display-Multimeter-Voltmeter/dp/B013PKYILS/ref=pd_bxgy_23_3
100A fuse
2-4 gauge wire
terminal ends
A voltimeter is very helpful in finding a wire that runs > 12v while the car is running. Have one, buy one, borrow one, etc. This was really the only challenging part of the installation because you have to test multiple wires for voltage.
Once you're done installing it you'll be able to comment on these posts and tell people how wonderful and easy it is too!
Do you have a Ford? On my Mustang it would stay on. On my Ford Flex it stays on for 10 minutes after I've parked it. It was driving me nuts. Anyway, I do this for every car because it would free my cigarette lighter connector to put a phone charger on it, plus it looks like you don't have anything connected.
I hardwire and tap the fuse box to a fuse that turns off when I turn off the ignition key. The fuse shouldn't be something related to ECUs or safety, you don't want to mess with that just in case(Yeah, you might have to read the Owner's Manual. LOL no one reads it).
You can do it yourself by using a Voltage Continuity Tester.
Also you may need fuse taps, they are pretty cheap, and a Female Cigarette Lighter Socket Adapter. The Positive (Red) connected to the fuse tap cable and the Ground (Black) connected to any big screw into the car chassis. Then you hide it under the steering wheel with a zip tie and it's done.
EDIT: Just read your car is a lease, this install will not modify anything on it. Just unplug the fuse tap and replace the fuse, then unscrew the ground cable and it's done. You can use this on the next car you'll lease also.
My .02 worth for ya..... Go in this order instead of jumping right into a set of LED headlamps.
1 - Upgrade the wiring harness.
I installed a Putco harness in 2013 when I first got the XJ and it was a definitely improvement.
Putco 230004HW Premium Automotive Lighting H4 100W Heavy Duty Wiring Harness and Relay
Other folks have gone the eBay route, and I bought one of these on a whim (because it was stupid cheap) just to see if the quality was worth it.
CERAMIC H4 HEADLIGHT RELAY WIRING HARNESS 2 HEADLAMP LIGHT BULB SOCKET PLUGS 7
Ended up not installing it because I had other things to work on instead of replacing the Putco harness that was working fine. Overall though, the quality was surprisingly good and I would have used it if I didn't already have the Putco harness.
For all the negative comments people have about the Putco upgrade harness, it's still working fine a little over 3yrs later. Knock on wood, of course.
2 - Get a set of H4 housings. I bought these off Amazon, but there are other reputable brands out there which work just fine.
GENSSI DOT H6054 7x6 Inch 200mm Headlights Pair with Bulbs Non-Sealed H6014/H6052/H6054
These came with some crappy OCONUS-made no-name bulbs that sucked balls and were immediately thrown in the garbage.
I went to my local PepBoys and grabbed a set of Sylvania SilverStar "Ultra Halogen" H4 bulbs and threw those in the housings.
Holy shit, #1 & #2 were an incredible upgrade to the shit stock XJ headlights.
If you're looking to stay right at or a hair under $100 that's the way to go.
Last year, I came into some $$$ and got it into my head that I wanted LED headlights. Went this route: Truck-Lite (27450C) Headlamp
Wow.
Significant difference from the H4 bulbs + wiring harness upgrade but I'm honestly glad I did the H4 bulbs + wiring harness upgrade first.
Now that said... In hindsight, the LEDs weren't absolutely necessary and I could have put the $$$ into a SYE or something else.
But hey, ya learn as ya go. Right?
A hood channel mount like this firestik or this procomm with an antenna like this Tram or this firestik should work well and not look terribly out of place on a small car. A small mag mount like a K30 or lil will would be another good, non-permanent option.
Hella Supertones are pretty popular in the Subaru scene. They’re fairly easy to mount behind the grille in most cars. Personally, I like the sound of the new Sharptones a little bit more. But there’s endless options out there. Just find some tone that you like. Most electronic horns are gonna wire up the same
This might be an elaborate way of answering your first question, but mostly I wanted to write out my experience of doing this exact thing. Also apparently I need to split this up into 2 replies.
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I have an AVH-W4400NEX and a 2012 Prius Plug-In. After buying all the stuff I needed...
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I believe I set aside a Saturday afternoon to swap it out myself, and also install a dash cam with both front and rear cameras (the car already had backup camera built in). I ended up working on this through all of the weekend, and then did some more tweaks the following weekend.
The way I setup my LEDs is I wired the lights directly to the battery with an inline 5A (I believe....might be way too high, could be around 2A, I don't remember, just calculate what your lights will draw) fuse on the ground.
Here is what I used (not the same brand etc etc, I got mine at a PepBoys for double that price because I was impatient), and it worked great!
EDIT: this will provide you with constant power, which is what I wanted because I can switch the lights on without having to turn the key. Great ambient lighting for relaxing in a lot at night.
GOOD SHIT MAN. here you go.
https://smile.amazon.com/HELLA-Protective-3AG-003-399-801/dp/B000CRZXPI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1543267212&sr=8-3&keywords=hella+horns
If you're not as tech savvy like me, I also got the subimod harness as well! it's expensive as fuck but made the install 10000000% easier. I didn't have any of the tools either. its a literal plug and play. lets just put it this way. it took longer to take the front bumper off TBH. LOL
https://subimods.com/subimods-v2-hella-horn-harness-kit-most-subaru-models-sm-h-hv2.html
You're most welcome! I bought the following:
4x100W Panels
Panel Mounting
Solar Panel Connectors
Tool Crimper
Assembly Tool
Panel Connectors
Power Information
CTEK Charger
CTEK SmartPass
200ah AMG Battery
Fuse Block
300W Pure Sine Wave Inverter
LED Strip
Dometic 35 Fridge
I bought all these items with research into my solar needs and following the advice from here in the vandwelling subreddit and also information I gathered from Amazon. I am probably doing a bit of overkill on my solar setup but I thankfully have the money to do it and don't want to mess with adding anything later.
I will have to do research myself on how to combine the four panels into the battery but that will be a few weeks away so I haven't done much in that area. I do plan to buy 10GA wire from Lowes and use the crimping tool and connectors to form my own wiring harness so it will be clean looking. \
EDIT: Adding info.
It's hard to beat the Chinese at this one... I've seen a guy on Facebook reselling prebuilt harnesses as his own creation, but I'm more interested in making a quality product that's going to outlast the rig it's installed on. I want my reputation to be built on quality and value for the dollar.
Example:
For $20:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CERAMIC-H4-HEADLIGHT-RELAY-WIRING-HARNESS-2-HEADLAMP-LIGHT-BULB-SOCKET-PLUGS-7-/330997592807
For $40:
https://www.amazon.com/Putco-230004HW-Premium-Automotive-Lighting/dp/B001P29X4G/?tag=vig-20
And at the premium/benchmark end:
http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/ipf-wiring-harness.html
If I could make and sell a harness that people would be interested in, I'd be game. We'd be talking OEM quality TXL wire, ceramic plugs, HELLA style relays... but it's not going to be $20. That's the hard part, being competitive in price and quality in relation to other offerings.
And then obviously pick a head unit. We've had good luck with the Kenwood DNX695S, which has navigation, wired android auto, apple car play, and plays DVDs. It looks like a lot of parts but the only wire connecting you'll need to do is with the various harnesses listed above, and there's good documentation on what goes where. Once you get your harness all connected up, everything just plugs right into your existing Toyota harnesses.
If you are mostly listening, you should be fine. Most cigarette outlets are rated for 8 amps at 13.8v. My Cobra 19 DX III only uses 1.2 amp on transmit so it is safe for me do what you are suggesting. Some vans and trucks have "power outlets" that are rated for 18-20 amps that would be perfect even for a long talker.
The power post you are suggesting scares me since leaves things so exposed. I ended up using the following that you can buy in almost any store with basic automotive electrical parts.
Terminals and Spades and a Replacement Cigarette Adapter. The Cigarette adapter in stores is usually rated for 3 amps. For CB's that should be plenty, but if the fuse pops after some long TX you may need to figure out running a Positive wire to the battery and the black to bolt to the car frame.
Lights don't "pull 12v", they need 12v to work and then use/pull X amount of amps. I think you're confused by the difference between volts, amps, and how fuses work. Voltage is like the measure of force moving the electricity (electrons) through the wire, and amps is the measure of how much electricity is moving through the wires.
The fuse numbers are the rating that the fuse blows at, not how much that circuit uses normally. Like if your radio only uses 8A peak, then it would run through a fuse that is rated at 10A, so if it ever spikes above 10A, then the fuse blows and opens the circuit to protect from damage.
Anyway, I would pick a fuse slot that powers an accessory, like the radio fuse or the 12V accessory port(/cigarette lighter. Whatever you call it). So if the fuse were to blow, the only thing that is affected is just the lights and the accessory port.
Easiest thing to do is get a fuse tap and use it to install your lights. That way you don't have to cut any wires on your car and everything is properly protected. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/10-Pack-Add-circuit-Adapter/dp/B01DYQM6EO/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=fuse+tap&qid=1571284619&sr=8-3
Tires are the most important feature on the car for it's performance and safety. You should educate her on how to monitor, and set her tire pressure at regular intervals for her own safety and the safety of those around her. Get a nice tire pressure gauge with a large glow in the dark analog gauge to make reading simple and clear.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00404WDUC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Not digital, but this analog gauge has been great: Joes Racing 32307 (0-60) PSI Tire Pressure Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00404WDUC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1mIBybTCYX6MQ
I've gifted it to several relatives. The large dial, half pound accuracy, and bleed off valve are great features.
https://www.amazon.com/Joes-Racing-32307-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B00404WDUC
I have one of these that I consistently use, which is the main thing. Get something that is of good quality, and use it almost exclusively if you can. I like the ease of something with a bleed-off valve, since ease of use will encourage you to check your tire pressure often.
I like your name, lol. I got this: https://www.amazon.com/bayite-6-5-100V-Display-Multimeter-Voltmeter/dp/B013PKYILS/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1480969369&sr=8-8&keywords=watt+meter
Problem SOLVED? :)
Title | FZ-07 Progress Report
Description | The Build Parts so far, TwoBros "The Garden Snake" edition Exhaust - Danny@TwoBros.com Stage Two Filter and Lid Kit, https://www.e-dnafilters.com/product/Stage-2-and-3-Applications/Yamaha/DNA-1092/YMA-MT07/Yamaha-MT-07-(13-15)-DNA-Air-Box-Cover-and-Filter-TC-Y7N14-S2 ECU Flash Tune - http://www.veloxracing.com/ Core Moto brake lines - http://amzn.to/2iYwoR2 LED Relay - http://amzn.to/2iq0Mnj Pro Taper Carmichael Bars - http://amzn.to/2iGkCyz Pro Taper Pillow Top MX Grips - http://amzn.to/2j6VDFB Shorty CNC Levers - http://amzn.to/2iGe6It R6 Throttle Tube - http://amzn.to/2iGbJFq RAM Mounts - http://amzn.to/2hPo0aY Phone Mount - http://amzn.to/2iG7slt GoPro Mount - http://amzn.to/2j2EGrz Bar End Mirrors - http://amzn.to/2iGdouu Bar End Mount Kit for MX Bars - http://amzn.to/2hQqdRT Washers Needed for Bar Mount - https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/RFD8071034B/RFD8071034B The Proton 500 blinkers SAVE 15%-http://hightechspeed.refr.cc/bullwacky Motodynamic Fender Eliminator - http://amzn.to/2iP0L0A Motodynamic Integrated Tail Light - http://amzn.to/2ircKkB Mini Fly / Windscreen (Its only $30!) http://amzn.to/2iz4Q61 Merch http://bit.ly/1Rxcefz Shirts https://teespring.com/stores/thegardensnake Support my Patreon here, https://www.patreon.com/TheGardenSnake TheGardenSnakes Second Channel, https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCjDp-bUClKTq8lzoC18iJLw TheGardenSnake on Instagram http://instagram.com/jake_thegardensnake TheGardenSnake on FaceBook http://www.facebook.com/TheGardenSnake TheGardenSnake on Twitter https://twitter.com/#!/thegardensnake and only if you want to, https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_s-xclick&hosted_button_id=DSV4PQ4B2L28E Business inquiries, TGSBusiness@mail.com Cold Funk - Funkorama by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/) Source: http://incompetech.com/music/royalty-free/index.html?isrc=USUAN1100499 Artist: http://incompetech.com/
Length | 0:11:55
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Thanks for the tips. I'm kicking myself because I just donated a box of old wall transformers that I would've saved had I known. I know I have a couple of 12v/5amp wall transformers from old HDDs that I might try for home use. I was thinking about this adapter for car use.
 
I was also wondering if you knew what sort of antenna I should look for. The radio came with a small one, however the wiring on the antenna doesn't connect to the radio correctly. The radio has a screw type mount I'm not familiar with, but was hoping it might be a cb standard and easy to find a replacement for.
Sounds like you're looking for a terminal block. You'll need a step down converter to take the 12v battery juice down to whatever your pi and cell phones require. You could also just wire a female car charger adapter and then use a car charger to properly do the voltage step down for charging cell phones and tablets. Raspberry Pi's require 5v and seem to work fine at USB 2.0's standard of .5 amps, but I'm pretty sure they'll work at the 2-3 amps most high end chargers utilize, but that all depends on what kinds of peripherals you'll be running.
Wouldn't you know, I'm about to wire some horns into my brothers 78CB750! But Yeah I have two hella super tones http://www.amazon.com/HELLA-003399801-Supertone-High-Bracket/dp/B000CRZXPI and wired a relay. Your original wiring probably can't supply enough current for the aftermarket horn. If it hasn't failed it probably will soon fail if you're trying to push current like that through a factory wiring harness. Look up how to wire a relay it's really simple,
+12v into relay from battery (terminal 87),
+12v into relay remote/trigger basically the positive lead that attaches to your factory horn now goes to terminal 86
Ground terminal 85
And finally +12v out from relay that goes to your aftermarket horn Terminal 30
Then you ground the horn wherever you want.
these add a circuit work great and allow for a fuse on both the original circuit and the added one. As long as you aren’t drawing crazy amps where the original wires can’t handle it your fine. A cell phone booster should be fine
I think having an accurate gauge is important, I tend to trust the mechanical gauges a little more and I don't worry about dead batteries. I also try to buy American when possible :)
Joes Racing
I've got a set of Hella super tones. Please do this the right way and use the included relay instead of just using the old stock horn wire and "splitting it."
I didn't like the air horn option because of tight mounting space in my NA. My supers are pretty loud, it'll make you jump if you're standing in front of them when I hit it. Super tone kit is also louder than air horn kit from Hella.
Well, I'm pretty sure the primary intention for them is USB sticks or the likes for media files, so it makes sense since the infotainment makes use of that and for working with firmware and the likes.
I kind of doubt you'd be able to modify that without extensive circuit work. You'd be better off adding another Set of USB ports to the car that are hardwired and meant for high output charging. You'd just need to cut the trim to add the outputs. Something like this would do it:
https://www.amazon.com/Ginsco-Charger-Socket-Outlet-2-1A%EF%BC%884-2A%EF%BC%89/dp/B01N6S2SNM
The USB 2.0 standard is 500 mAh for data transfer. So it still technically charges, just really, really slow. USB 3.0 I believe is 900mAh (there's 5 extra contacts, which is more than likely why).
Friend, "super confused" and a 72W battery stack start to make me nervous about advising you. Here's a pic about how to connect a BMS. https://imgur.com/a/eeh7C4h
Short circuit fault currents can be really high. I highly advise you to fuse your battery as close to the + terminal of your holder as you can. I like this automotive type: https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Harness-Automotive-Standard-Warranty/dp/B0002KR88A
The 7.5A fuse would be a good starting choice.
be safe.
I have 2 FIAMM 721X2 horns, they are the standard electromechanical type like this. There's really not much difference between this horn and any other standard automotive horn, they're all very similar.
Here's one for sale on amazon, but I got them as a two pack with both the high-low tone horns in one package from an auto parts store. Here's the exact converter I had.
I don't understand why this information is of any use, I would think component level model numbers like what chip was actually used in the converter, what the switching transistor, output capacitors, etc would be 1000x more useful.
They definitely do have crap range inside with the default antenna, but using an external antenna would remedy that. Theres a ton of 300-500 watt antennas on Amazon that mount with a magnet. Unscrew the default one replace with one like the little wil and boom better range.
Hey dude!
https://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Water-Resistant-Fuse-Holder/dp/B0002KR88A
Just make sure that's crimped/spliced somewhere between the positive lead of the battery and your fishfinder. Very Bad Things can happen should your fishfinder get dunked without it in place.
I have two FJs, both with upgraded audio. The Kenwood Excelon DNX695S is my favorite head unit of the two, the other is a Kenwood Excelon DNX892. The DNX659S is quite a bit cheaper, has a great layout, no mechanical door hiding the CD/DVD player, and still has the OBDII connection to monitor engine stuff, which is cool. also two inputs for front and rear cameras.
Keep in mind you will need a few additional components to fully integrate, they aren't 100% needed, but make it better: Maestro ADS-MRR to use your steering wheel controls, SiriusXM SXV300v1 if you want Satellite Radio, and a plastic trim piece to complete the bezel around the new radio.
I have a Wicked CAS Stage 2 speaker and subwoofer system in one, and stock speakers in the other. Both sound great with the new head units, but the Wicked system with the dual subwoofers is really nice. I don't have a sub in the second FJ, and miss it after driving the first.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F946YVX/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A32QR6D7S73KI&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NJTO4CY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/Maestro-ADS-MRR-Universal-Replacement-Interface/dp/B00E4W1644/ref=pd_bxgy_504_img_2/134-9197268-1169858?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00E4W1644&pd_rd_r=9886b991-360d-4091-80c8-1d4c8857e87e&pd_rd_w=eHBMr&pd_rd_wg=XXeXa&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=8JEA44SVJBBDNT7YZM62&psc=1&refRID=8JEA44SVJBBDNT7YZM62
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K52CY2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://shop.wickedcas.com/fj-cruiser-stage2-package-audio-upgrade-stereo-stage-2.html?category_id=3
I use this a Joes racing gauge. Very good reviews in the car racing community, and its has never let me down. Good value, and I cant complain. I use it for my bikes and all the cars we own.
http://www.amazon.com/Joes-Racing-32307-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B00404WDUC?ie=UTF8&keywords=joes%20racing&qid=1463484884&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
Would one of these be better than the other?
http://smile.amazon.com/Roadpro-Fused-Replacement-Cigarette-Lighter/dp/B0016LG0CY?sa-no-redirect=1
http://smile.amazon.com/Auto-Button-Cigarette-Lighter-Black/dp/B0090149R0/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1420742893&sr=1-2&keywords=cigarette+lighter+plug
http://smile.amazon.com/K40-K403CBPP-2-Wire-Cigarette-Lighter/dp/B001JT98S6/ref=pd_sbs_auto_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=06E9J8F93C84MQ2G79PE
TIA
I had fog lights added to my '04 Grand Cherokee that didn't have the factory option. Holes were there already, but the wiring wasn't. I used this kit. The wires weren't long enough for my car, so more had to be added. Everything worked perfectly besides that.
They are hella horn sharptones. I bought them as an inexpensive mod that I thought might would look good. But living in Texas, with large highway and hugs trucks, a louder horn definitely comes in handy on small cars.
Edit: Hella 922.000-731 Sharptone Horn Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R3O0Y0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sD4.yb1NX31YP
The 6v golf cart batteries from Costco or Sams Club are what people usually recommend. I have them and they work well.
Also, get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013PKYILS Single best upgrade I've done to my trailer.
You'll also need something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-Battery-Cigarette-Lighter-Extension/dp/B00JOY6U7U
Make absolutely sure you don't clip it to the battery backwards. I'd put a big red + on the positive side of the battery.
it's complicated, i did it when i first bought my 16'.
and don't let just any audio installer do it, they'll just hack the shit out of the harness.
you need about $200 in parts besides the headunit to do it properly
shit and it looks like the link to the blog on how to do it is gone :(
http://roflitsowens.blogspot.com/2015/12/2016-subaru-wrx-replacing-starlink-head.html
basically you need:
dash install kit
wire to keep OEM backup camera
30pin adapter you'll cut it in half and use it for hooking all these various things together
Maestro to retain steering wheel control, there's a cheaper version though with less features
adapter to retain USB
adapter for stock antenna
adapter for radio so you don't have to cut anything
and i'm pretty sure i'm forgetting something else.
most of these things all have to be wired into the 30 pin connector, it was much easier to figure it all out on my workbench and solder it properly then install everything, took me about 2 days to do.
I got the Hella housings that take an H4 bulb, then put SilverStars in them because I like the nice white color temperature.
I think the biggest difference honestly came from this harness. With it bypassing the stock wiring (if I remember correctly it just uses the stock light cables to trip the relays) it can supply a lot more juice from the battery.
I have the 55/60 watt bulbs now, but I might swap in the 90/100's when these go since the harness can support them.
This is the meter, hookup is pretty easy. bayite DC 6.5-100V 0-100A LCD Display Digital Current Voltage Power Energy Meter Multimeter Ammeter Voltmeter with 100A Current Shunt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013PKYILS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_Ou3gAb7RH4KPW
Powering the mirror with a cig lighter.... LOL I can't believe they included that. That's really fucking stupid. LOL
Anyway, yes, you can extend the power wires for the mirror so they'll run up into the headliner, across to an a-pillar, down the a-pillar and to your fuse box. Find a fuse that turns on/off with the car and use one of these. 15A is more than enough.
Seems like the hardwiring kit in /u/nonvideas post is out of stock. You can use these two things instead:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I0MWPXU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EZJBELQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00
This is what I used. There's a panel under the fuel lid/hood release latches that uncovers a small fuse panel. First, unscrew the big bolt you see (you may have to pry the bigger plastic cover slightly) using a 13mm socket. Tighten the bolt so that the black ground cable from the cigarette lighter thing is secure. Then, insert the red power cable into the red wire connector from the fuse tap and crimp the wire. Now you're ready to tap your fuse box. Take out the fuse you want to tap, insert it into the fuse tap, then insert the fusetap fuse into that same socket. Now you're tapped into the battery power and only the ignition will power the cigarette lighter.
The Scion FR-S has the same issue, sounds like a clown car. It's like, "I'M SO MAD," meep. So I bought some Hella Supertones and everything was right with the world again, I could be angry and actually HONK at people.
I had the front bumper off to install an oil cooler anyway so install was relatively simple and I believe you can do it by just removing the undertray and not the whole bumper, I have no idea what you would have to do for your Matrix though. The horns came with a relay but the FR-S already has one so I didn't use it, not sure about the Matrix, you'll have to Google that. For the low tone I just spliced in to the 2 cables going to the stock horn and the high tone had a single cable which I spliced in to for a live source and ran a cable from the mounting bolt for ground.
Google's your friend, you might even be able to buy a wiring harness to ease things along. I'm a dumbass and managed this pretty easily, good luck :).
You must take a part front bumper. But Ieave undercover bolts. You have to take other bolts tho from tire and top part. It opens like books. And you can just put it back. No car lifting. Its on youtube and amazon is pretty good. I just replaced with this.
FIAMM 72112 Freeway Blaster Low Note Horn https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000DINKPQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3iI6Cb1BXRJPR
I have been looking at a Kenwood unit myself, along with a Maestro adapter I can still use all the steering wheel controls and gain the ability to reset cel codes and monitor tire pressure. Apple CarPlay is just a bonus.
Kenwood DMX7705S Car Stereo Double Din Radio with Apple CarPlay Android Auto Bluetooth, 6.9" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BLQDDQP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LyE.Bb7HQVQJZ
Maestro ADS-MRR Universal Radio Replacement and Steering Wheel Interface https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E4W1644/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_czE.BbDH0EDAC
I highly recommend the Hella Super Tones
Cigartte lighter socket + quality car phone charger + Add-a-circuit kit (check your fuse type) + some quality tape + Right-angle USB charging cable
You wire the red wire on the cigarette adapter to an add-a-ciruit (i.e. with a crimp tool). The black wire goes to ground (i.e. tucked under some bolt someplace, or a ring terminal ). You put the charger in the now-attached cigarette adapter in the fuse area under your driver's side dash. Then you need to route an appropriate USB cable (i.e. with one with a right-angle head or right-angle adapter on the dash cam side) to the under dash area (usually by tucking it under the headliner over the windshield, and then by popping the A-pillar cover off and the side panel of the dashboard, and feeding the cable through). Once you have all the wires under the dash, you just need to hook them up, test them, and then tape them together so they can't come loose.
The advantage of going this route is that you 'own' all the pieces. If any part of the formula isn't working out, you can change just that part. You also get a spare USB-C charging port for free since that adapter has both A and C.
Ok, so if I want to switch them all with one switch I should ideally have a switch that can handle 15a+?
 
So run the 5v and ground cables to all the strips in parallel from the power supply to get even illumination? I'm assuming the reason to do this has to do with voltage drop across 5m of LED's.
 
So something like this fuse box holder with a 15a fuse on the wires powering the LED would do it?
Hella Supertones, like the other guy said. I have them on my NA, they're awesome. A ton louder and attention getting than the stock "meep meep" horn they came with, even though mine are in the stock horn location behind the bumper.
If you tap off the cigarette lighter and it is a 10A fuse or larger you will be fine as long as you aren't literally trying to use it as a cigarette lighter (the red glowing thing) as well. Buy some of the correct sized fuses for your car as spares off eBay for really cheap (or harbor freight) and keep them in your spare tire well. They can be a life saver. Never ever ever... ever... put in a larger fuse than what originally came in the fuse slot. The fuse is there to protect the wiring, not the devices.
Now, you can use a tap if you'd like and be fine if and only if you use the stock fuse and then a 5A fuse for the dash cam. Most dashcams only use 2A and they are getting more and more efficient so you should be fine. This method means you have to run it through the firewall which will suck. Plus you would likely have to cut a hole in the fuse box lid which could let water in which is bad. Do you have an auto-dimming mirror? You can splice power off of that too.
edit: By fuse tap I mean one of these: https://www.amazon.com/10-Pack-Add-circuit-Adapter/dp/B01DYQM6EO . Do not use the kind that just wedge in alongside the stock fuse. Those will stretch out the fuse prong slot.
I've used these with good success. You'll need to fabricate a cowl or something to have it plugged in all the time and keep water off it. Though it really shouldn't matter all that much if it gets a little wet.
Bought the horns off of Amazon then I used some extra wire and fixtures that were laying around the garage! I'll put a link to the horn set I bought.
But this is my 2016 crosstrek that's I've owned for about two months and I love it!
HELLA (3AG 003 399-801) Supertone 12V High Tone/Low Tone Twin Horn Kit with Bracket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CRZXPI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Hp6WAbFFJ7W96
Got two. Duel tones, one does a high pitch and one does a lower pitch.
I'm pretty sure this is the one I bought: HELLA 003399801 Supertone 12V High Tone/Low Tone Twin Horn Kit with Bracket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CRZXPI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CIBWzbM36B7E0
That's actually a really good price for them too.
This would be the better option, wouldn't it? It converts it from 9004 to H4 safely?
https://www.amazon.com/Putco-230004HW-Premium-Automotive-Lighting/dp/B001P29X4G
I have one, works great, however it was a little confusing for me at first, but now that I get the menus it is great.
I picked up one of these for my power supply and I was going to just clip off the cigarette lighter and solder the thing together with the charger, then I realized I can get one of these and now I can use the charger in my car too. The power supply may be a little weak, since I can only charge at 5.8Amps max, but it works for me, and was cheap.
I also picked up this and this now I can charge just about anything.
Throw one of these bad boys in your system with a switch and youre good to go. Ive taken my kit out playing Pokemon go and recharged multiple phones without putting much of a dent in the battery. Im sure someone can do the math, but those power banks that will charge your phones like 5 times are 10 AH 5 volt, so lord knows how long you can charge your phone of a 12 volt 35 AH stepped down to 5 volts.
I know they've got the Subaru stigma attached to them, but Hella's SuperTone horns are an amazing upgrade for not a ton of money.
bayite DC 6.5-100V 0-100A LCD Display Digital Current Voltage Power Energy Meter Multimeter Ammeter Voltmeter with 100A Current Shunt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013PKYILS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RRC2CbRANNKNH
That's what I used. I disassembled my power cord where it meets the wires coming out of the power supply. I had the current ring between the power wire. Was pretty simple to do and it keeps track of current and power and total power used.
You'll be surprised that the dial to output won't be linear.
Remove the dash piece under the steering column and then the metal plate behind it to gain access to the main ignition harness that goes up to the steering wheel. Cut back the wire loom and look for a heavier guage solid pink or pink with black stripe wire. Make sure to test it with a dmm that it goes from 0 to 12v with the key turning on and off. You will need to get an inline fuse holder like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002KR88A/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1452992553&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=inline+fuse&dpPl=1&dpID=41xeCvxvLdL&ref=plSrch and a 10 amp fuse to go in the fuse holder. Solder one side of the inline fuse holder into the pink or pink/black wire and wire an extension wire to go from the other side of the fuse holder up to the radio. Wire the extension to the red ignition wire of the aftermarket deck harness and test that it turns on and off with the key. Once that's done bolt the metal plate back up then the under dash and put the rest back together.
For a car like yours and for what you want to do, I would go with this:
​
https://www.amazon.com/WILSON-305-38-300-Watt-Little-Antenna/dp/B001AAT94W/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=wilson+1000&qid=1550015738&s=gateway&sr=8-2
​
Inexpensive. Quality. They've been making them for decades and they work quite well.
...hope you dont have any neighbors.
Easiest way? Get a small 50watt solar panel, a usb adapter, and one of those portable bluetooth speakers with built-in batteries. wire it up, mount it somewhere sheltered from rain, and you're good to go.
​
panel: https://www.amazon.com/HQST-Monocrystalline-Applications-Compact-Design/dp/B07HYGSZKL
usb adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Ginsco-Charger-Socket-Outlet-2-1A(4-2A)/dp/B01N6S2SNM
bluetooth speaker with 8hrs battery: https://www.amazon.com/Bose-SoundLink-Color-Bluetooth-speaker/dp/B01HETFQKS (something with a remote would be best)
Along with the converter you linked, use an Add-a-circuit to tap into your fusebox (make sure you buy the ones with the right size for your truck). Use a multimeter to find which fuses are activated when your key is in the ignition.
Personally, I'm using a cigarette lighter socket and usb adapter (like this) instead to wire in my dashcam, but they both do the same thing as the converter you linked.
The last piece of the puzzle is having your Pi shutdown gracefully (via a switch), or even some sort of battery backup. This will prevent corruption of your microSD filesystem, which might occur when simply cutting power to the Pi. There are a bunch of different implementations online on how you can do this.
Go to your local auto part store and purchase a used car battery for like 50$. Then buy a battery clip on cigarette lighter socket extension cord for 10$ and a Dual 110V AC outlets and Dual USB 3.1A 300w power inverter for 27$. Now you wont have to drain your car battery charging your phones and it can power other stuff like lights or a pump for your air mattress.
also you can get Portable Solar Car Battery Charger encase you need to charge the battery or use jumper cables.
Good stuff, thank you all. One more question though, regarding the battery monitor, in order to monitor the discharge rate and not go below 50%, do I need a victron BMV-700 ($150) or can I just use this bayite meter:
r/https://www.amazon.com/bayite-6-5-100V-Display-Multimeter-Voltmeter/dp/B013PKYILS/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_107_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=331JX46ZCP7CH3YT868Q
Accessory wire is the 12v+ that gets current when you put your car key in the ignition and turn it (or, if you have wireless keys, just when ever the radio can play, but not the engine) (accessory has 12v+ with the engine running)
Basically, if you can turn your radio on, the accessory wire has current.
You want to use this wire, because the lights will turn off automatically when you get out the car.
You can tap into the wire using a t-tap like this
Nilight 120 Pcs/60 Pairs Quick Splice Wire Terminals T-Tap Self-stripping with Nylon Fully Insulated Male Quick Disconnects Kit, 2 Years Warranty https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CP987BN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DXa2Cb03G4FAR
I like the ones with a flex hose section like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Joes-Racing-32307-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B00404WDUC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1406822942&sr=8-3&keywords=air+tire+pressure+gauge
or
http://www.amazon.com/Campbell-Hausfeld-MP6000-Inflator-Gauge/dp/B0007ZJ1IK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1406822827&sr=8-4&keywords=air+tire+pressure+gauge
I use a 12v deep cycle battery. Something like this: https://www.batteriesplus.com/battery/sla-sealed-lead-acid/duracell-ultra/12/sladc12=35j
With one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JOY6U7U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and something like this:https://www.amazon.com/Inverter-Anglink-Converter-Cigarette-Lighter/dp/B01KF4280K/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1478553668&sr=8-8&keywords=lighter+power+inverter
I think you're looking for something like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XP5C3XY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You could get a matching female lighter plug, like this https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN%C2%AE-Cigarette-Lighter-Connector-Adapter/dp/B00RT5TE5Q/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1520351741&sr=1-5&keywords=cigarette+lighter+socket, and connect that to your battery.
On my car with how I have the Android mirror wired up it turns on with the key on ACC or when starting the car, and the Android mirror stays powered until I turn the key to OFF.
It took a lot of probing around to find the fuses I needed to tap off of, but the Android mirror came with a cheap but usable power probe tool that works even better than a multimeter for finding fuses with and without power.
I ended up using the two fuses:
I also used "Add-a-circuit Fuse TAP Adapters" to tap off of the fuses so I did not have to cut or tap off of wires:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DYQM6EO
Crimp the fan wires onto this (or similar) https://www.amazon.com/Roadpro-Fused-Replacement-Cigarette-Lighter/dp/B0016LG0CY
If you need to extend the fan wires, you can use butt splice connectors to add an extension. You can pick up the connectors and some 16awg thhn wire at home depot or lowes.
I put LED turn signals on my bike and I used an electronic turn signal flasher instead of the stock one. You just unplug your old flasher and plug this one in, this way is a lot easier than resistors. You'll have to use an electronic flasher or resistors if you change to LEDs otherwise you'll get hyperflashing.
You can use something like this, this one might even work for your bike.
https://www.amazon.com/iJDMTOY-Electronic-Flasher-Motorcycle-Signal/dp/B00RM26LXO
You can also get this: Amazon
This allows you to hook the steering wheel controls up, as well as allowing deeper integration to the car from the head unit through the CAN bus. I know a lot of the Kenwood Android Auto units have really good integration with this stuff.
I have this one. My 12V in the car cant run it, but I bought one of these and it works great to hook up to the battery.
https://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-Battery-Cigarette-Lighter-Extension/dp/B00JOY6U7U/ref=pd_sim_263_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00JOY6U7U&pd_rd_r=RJ1FSZ7AAYNS4Z6SSK0B&pd_rd_w=9wt3b&pd_rd_wg=prkF3&psc=1&refRID=RJ1FSZ7AAYNS4Z6SSK0B
Maybe not the best idea to use all the time if you off road, cause you'll probably melt the wires at some point, but I've never had an issue.
It says it doesn't fit, but it does. Trust me, I'm a stranger on the internet.
http://imgur.com/a/AjnXI
That's my chick.
Akrapovic carbon, crash cage (but don't get the one I have, go impaktech!), The front signals are high-tech speed proton 500s, the rear light has integrated signals here, the relay for the front (rear comes with them) here, tail tidy, stainless steel lines were easily the best upgrade by far. I bought it with a stoltec ECU flash (amazing), and racetech suspension front and rear (also awesome).
Also i dont know how i forgot hella supertones. they look good, and make you safer because they are loud
for your headlights make sure to find a guide specifically for the hawkeye (60-07 models)
Hella Supertones.
https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-003399801-Supertone-High-Bracket/dp/B000CRZXPI
118 DB. Sounds awesome. People GTFO of your way.
using something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Shipping-CIRCUIT-BLADE-PROFILE-FUSETAP/dp/B00K17A2E6
Allows you to tap into an existing fuse slot fairly easily, its pretty much unplug a fuse, plug it and two fuses in.. then you can wire to the existing wire and a metal to the frame point under the dash.
I have done this with my car since my cigarette lighters are always on.
I used it to wire one of these in: http://www.amazon.com/uxcell%C2%AE-Charger-Cigarette-Lighter-Female/dp/B00EZJBELQ
And I just plugged my cam into that.
Well, I have a splitter on that now and my cam and gps are on it.. but same thing..
All factory (street) bikes come with horns. It's required to be street legal.
That said, most of the factory ones are pretty anemic. I usually replace mine with aftermarket ones. My favorite replacement for disc-style horns are Hella Supertones. They're silly loud, and if you mount both of them they're tuned to a dissonant interval so that they're extra annoying. They *really* get people's attention. You can get them with red, yellow, or black covers, and they even come in a kit with a relay so you can wire them in properly.
I got a pack of [these] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015GYN38A/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_76MPwb4TCY4GW) so not to compromise existing circuits. Worked great for my A118C
If you're depending on that worthless beep-beep, good luck. One of the first mods I make on a new motorcycle is horn upgrade (there's a box of old stock horns in the garage).
Get a stebel air horn or a set of Fiamm Freeway Blasters (standard on an F-150), or any other decent horn.
And be careful out there, you're invisible!
I've heard those called Vampire taps before. It doesn't seem right to call this a "brute force" mod. It's quite simple, elegant, and non-destructive.
EDIT
I guess vampire tap just refers to the old 10BaseT networking thing. Found these "T-taps" on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Terminals-Self-stripping-Insulated-Disconnects/dp/B07CP987BN
Solar panels put out around 12v-18v of power depending on sun intensity. You would need a PWM or MPPT solar controller and you could use something like a 12V cigarrette car charger like this:
https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN-Cigarette-Lighter-Connector-Adapter/dp/B00RT5TE5Q
And then use a standard car charger USB out and plug your RPi into that. The car charger USB will have a Switching Mode Power Supply (SMPS) inside of it that will take your 12v+ coming from the solar controller and bring it down to 5v to be used with whatever USB devices you have plugged in.
I had no idea there was a specific tool for this! Does this look right?
Thanks for the help!
I put a set of these on my leaf in the factory horn location, and I'm very happy with them.
Ive found this on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/bayite-6-5-100V-Display-Multimeter-Voltmeter/dp/B013PKYILS/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
Anyone have thoughts on this? Ive you read the reviews, in reference to van power, they're generally positive.
https://www.amazon.com/FIAMM-72112-Freeway-Blaster-Horn/dp/B000DINKPQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1475268204&sr=8-3&keywords=motorcycle+horn
And if you really want to get good volume, get the high note along with it:
https://www.amazon.com/FIAMM-72102-Term-Universal-Bracket/dp/B000FKKOK6/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0JH4FF693AX14TAPT4RR
Something to consider with a PVC shower, is supplementing your heat. Best way I've found to do so is to use a heating element like this one and couple it with a temp controller. This runs off 12v DC so you'd have to take into account electrical capacity, but I figure I could run that while on the move so the vehicle alternator takes the load, or from an onsite generator if you're in a fixed location.
Disclaimer: I have not run this yet, I'm still in the planning phases of a PVC shower. This was found through research.
A touring windshield for when it's cold out, frame sliders, tank grips for your knees, removable hard cases for storage. This awesome horn https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000DINKPQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MiS.Ab6X7RFY3
As promised, here are the links I have bookmarked:
Stock USB Adapter: https://www.carid.com/axxess/retains-oe-usb-adaptor-mpn-ax-mazusb.html?singleid=185736977&url=78716414
Backup Camera Adapter: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120MAZCM6V/Axxess-AX-MAZCAM-6V-Backup-Camera-Harness.html?tp=3486
Backup Camera Adapter Instructions: https://pdf.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageBank/v20170911125100/Manuals/120/120MAZCM6V.PDF
Antenna Adapter: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_12040HD10/Metra-40-HD10-Antenna-Adapter.html?tp=2569
Trim Kit: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120957522B/Metra-95-7522B-Dash-Kit.html?tp=3121
Dash disassembly (CX-5 is identical to 6): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aoncFAELsDQ
Wire Harness: https://www.carid.com/metra/aftermarket-radio-wiring-harness-mpn-70-7903.html?singleid=4732120&url=78716414
Maestro RR (Steering wheel control adapter): https://www.amazon.com/ADS-MRR-Maestro-RR-Universal-Replacement/dp/B00E4W1644
Guide by someone who has done this before: https://www.mazda6club.com/threads/2014-m6gt-pioneer-mvh-2300nex-install-w-bose.434058/
Reverse wire location: https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123840216-2014-mazda-6-reverse-sensor-wire-found-looking-for-VSS-wire-anyone
My Headunit: https://www.kenwood.com/usa/car/navigation_multimedia/ddx9703s/
That one is a 12v in but it's directly connected to an AC adaptor for a house, so I wouldn't touch it as you'd void any warranty cutting the wires. You can get something like this and wire it up with this, and your cigarette lighter should have enough amperage to power it unless it's not accessory in which case a relay can be used. Depends how technical you want to get with it.
Good to hear. Did you make a harness or buy one? This one? - http://www.amazon.com/Putco-230004HW-Premium-Automotive-Lighting/dp/B001P29X4G
2014 here also. I rarely use my horn, so it isn't a huge deal to me, but I agree it's very weak. I've considered going with these: Hella horn.
Not too expensive, and would be a fun little project. I think these are one of the most common that people upgrade to.
Battery Meter. Ive been toying with making one of these for a friend after I finish upgrading my camper. Someone else may be able to offer some more insight.
Ac meter: bayite AC 80-260V 100A BYT-VAEM-034 Digital Current Voltage Power Energy Analyzer Meter Ammeter Voltmeter with Open-close Current Transformer Split Core CT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D8G9GPW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_v2hPzb2TNZDNP
Dc meter: bayite DC 6.5-100V 0-100A LCD Display Digital Current Voltage Power Energy Meter Multimeter Ammeter Voltmeter with 100A Current Shunt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013PKYILS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_g3hPzbSXR3EHB
If that blade fuse is blown, I'd suggest replacing it with a newer fuse holder with some ring connectors crimped on. Way easier and cheaper than finding a new blade fuse.
Fuse Holder
Ring Connectors
Regular car batteries are made to have a lot of cranking power, and then stay on a trickle charge once the alternator gets going. Running the battery voltage down each night and charging it daily will kill the life of your battery (if it's not deep cycle).
Honestly, charging a phone (5w), running some small LED lighting (8w), and a couple 12VDC fans (6w) can all be done through your cigarette lighter port and won't be drawing more than 20watts. If you ran that all night, you would only be using 15amp/hrs or so of your battery; and if you get 8 hours of sunlight, you only need a 30watt solar panel to charge it back up. Whenever you are talking about solar though, you should plan on doubling your capacity to account for non-optimal performance, cloudy days, long winter nights, etc.
kieranmullen gives a pretty good rundown of what you would need to setup a separate 12v system but seems like overkill for what you are asking (and would run you about $300-400).
Personally, I would get a 100 watt panel, 7 amp charge controller, the cheapest 12v deep cycle marine battery from walmart, and maybe a 3-400w inverter (for a laptop charger or any other AC devices). Also, I'd put an inline fuse between my charge controller and load, and maybe another between the battery and charge controller.
Get yourself a nice gauge like this: http://amzn.com/B00404WDUC
Makes a world of difference. It's got a pressure release button and a lot more accurate than the pencil style that a lot of people use.
Hella horns. Really popular among the Subaru community.
If anything a harness won't hurt. I upgraded to the Hella e-codes and versus stock wiring there was a noticeable increase in light output.
https://www.amazon.com/Putco-230004HW-Premium-Automotive-Lighting/dp/B001P29X4G
2014 S+ here, One of the first things I did was upgrade the horn. I didn't find it too difficult to do myself.
Hella Supertone
​
If I remember right, connected the power straight to the battery positive and grounded out to the body. When mounting them I used two existing threaded holes with only having to add a second bolt.
Makes a big difference with other cars being able to hear me. I've even seen a couple in cars jump a little when I use it.
Actually they're aftermarket horns haha https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-003399801-Supertone-High-Bracket/dp/B000CRZXPI
I have a 2009 ninja 250. I installed the Freeway Blaster (low tone). It's on amazon and most local stores. I got it at my local Canadian Tire.
Here it is: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000DINKPQ
I ripped out the rubber washer and just installed the metal nuts on metal. For some reason the threaded rod built into the freeway blaster is slightly shorter than the stock horn. But it installed just fine and is really loud. Just make sure you mount it with the open end facing down to prevent rain from getting in.
I use these and they seem to get the job done very efficiently.
Replace that horn. Easy, cheap. So many options.
For example, https://www.amazon.com/Fiamm-72112-Freeway-Blaster-Note/dp/B000DINKPQ?keywords=car+horn+loud&qid=1535858148&sr=8-2&ref=mp_s_a_1_2
Easy.
https://amzn.com/B000DINKPQ $15.
https://amzn.com/B004UOVBAU $12.45
Buy several to really multiply the drown-out-ability.
MICTUNING MIC-B1002 LED Light Bar Wiring Harness, Fuse 40A Relay On-off Waterproof Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O72R7Z8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I hope this works
Floor lights: https://www.amazon.com/LEDGlow-Million-Color-Underdash-Interior/dp/B004N6YRDS/ref=pd_day0_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BCYSQ22HXC5N63B4ZG2H
Add a fuse circuit: https://www.amazon.com/10-Pack-Add-circuit-Adapter/dp/B01DYQM6EO/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1511740880&sr=1-5&keywords=car+wire+taps
You will also need a 5 amp car fuse. Auto zone has them for about 1$.
Use the hood release bolt as a ground point for the lights.
If you run the wires correctly it looks 100% OEM I set the LED color to match the red trim on my car and it looks so good!
Zip ties help and a coat hanger to run the wires through tough spots.
The thing that sucks about Cherokee headlights IS the wiring.
Buy this and install it.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001P29X4G/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/184-6657873-1060049
Changing the lights themselves will not help without feeding them ample current.
Stock lights work GREAT after you fix the wiring.
When I bought my 2011 Prius the cigarette lighter socket was completely dead. My fuses in the fuse box tested good (continuity test). Turns out there is an inline fuse on the socket itself that was blown. I pulled the socket out and replaced it with this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N6S2SNM works perfectly!
Unfortunately without a wiring diagram of how you have it connected I'm not sure what the issue is. The wiring doesn't sound correct, you shouldn't be routing main power lines to a switch and you should try using relays kits such as linked below, you can get power from the cig lighter for the illumination for the switch.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00O72R7Z8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478261904&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=relay+light+harness&dpPl=1&dpID=51AotTzudvL&ref=plSrch
They have an included wiring diagram and you only run a grounding wire inside to switch the main power which means you only need one wire running inside and you can ground to anything metal inside the cabin. Now on this switch Since it has illumination that's why it shows power wires to the switch but they show them as thin wires as this is just for an led which is super low current
Not necessarily at night, just whenever you're done driving for the day and getting ready to sleep.
If you want something small, look at the Midland 75-822 and a Wilson Little Wil antenna. That Midland CB comes with a car adapter that basically makes the whole unit a CB mic with all the controls on it.
Edit: and you'll need separate co-ax cable to connect the CB and the antenna.
Same exact one that /u/ImALittleCrackpot posted!
But when I purchased mine, I didn't need to buy a separate co-ax like they mentioned. My Little Wil antenna has one permanently attached to it. About 18' long.
Here it is
These are the brackets I used. These are the lights I used. Installation of the brackets is fairly straightforward. A guide comes with the purchase. Wiring the lights was probably the most difficult aspect just because I had to extend the reach of the relay . Feel free to ask me any more specific questions.
You're on the right track there. You'll need a cigarette lighter socket adapter and a battery charger. I have this one.
That should do it for you. You'll have the battery, the charger, the adapter and the fan. You'd also be able to add a light, phone charger, fridge, etc to the existing set up in the future.
The only other wiring is connecting both fog lights together and passing the fire wall. The wire has the two connectors for the lights, 2 grounds, and comes together to connect with the fog light line by the the reservoir.
I'd take some pictures, but I needed to put the bumper back on..
The eBay kit came with another set of wires but that was just an extension in case the fog light line was too far away. So the only other wiring is the harness in the pictures.
Would you like more detailed picture of that?
I know the green plug is for the button and I'm assuming black for ground.
The little black box things with the two red wires does have a 15 amp fuse in it.
It was just confusing me that the two red wires had connectors on them.
What is the proper way for finding wires with the correct Volts and Amps?
In order to avoid the splicing, could i use something like this?
Have you heard of our dear lord and savior Hella?
https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-003399801-Supertone-High-Bracket/dp/B000CRZXPI
Step one: Buy these: http://www.amazon.com/Hella-SuperTone-Horn-Kit-118/dp/B000CRZXPI
Step two: Install in front bumper, facing forward
Step three: Honk/flash high beams to get people to move. 118 deb of fury is like the parting of the red seas. It's amazing. :D
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CP987BN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SzyZDbW15NCS6
Are these the correct ones? I just want to make sure before I buy. I might look on eBay to see if I can just get a couple since I don't need so much lol
Not sure if it's what you're referring to, BUT lately I've been spotting that lots of subaru's with aftermarket grills reveal these two little circles in front of the radiator.
Finally did a search and found they are the "Hella Supertones" op mentioned in his mod list. They're aftermarket horns that seem to be louder than stock. They look kind of cool. Don't know about $50 cool.
I'll be using inline fuse holders like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Water-resistant-Fuse-Holder/dp/B0002KR88A/ref=pd_sim_263_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=41xeCvxvLdL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=15HM852D3AFHRX18VJ0X
Subaru drivers seem to like these
Looks like Hella Supertones (aftermarket horns).
Sounds like it's time to upgrade your friend's horns to these.
I was wondering too and googled a few of the mods he listed below, looks like they're Hella Supertones
I used this harness. Worked out perfect and drilled a 3/4" hole in one of the blank knock outs in the dash near the light dimmer dial. Has an illuminated switch when on and has spade connectors for two front lights. I just used one since I have a 20" led bar behind the lower grille.
MICTUNING MIC-B1002 LED Light Bar Wiring Harness, Fuse 40A Relay On-off Waterproof Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O72R7Z8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_ZYjgQJvFDJ4ET
AUKEY CC-S1 Car Charger, Flush Fit Dual Port 4.8A Output for iPhone iPad Samsung & other - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M6QODH2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_RMwezbEHZQ8SE
or...
***
Ginsco Dual USB Charger Socket Power Outlet 2.1A & 2.1A(4.2A) for Car Boat Marine Mobile with Wire Fuse DIY Kit Blue LED https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6S2SNM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_nOwezbM2AG9AZ
DC-DC is preferred for the reasons you note. There are tons of DC laptop chargers and usb outlets.
On parts of my build where they would show and need to access plugging I am using this kind of usb outlet (about 1/2 the price on eBay). Where they do not show and I need a permanent 5v supply I use bare components kinda like this, which are about $2-$3 each shipped from China. Both are on switches so the converters aren't using power when not in use.
Running it to the battery is the best option. You would need to run the wire under your carpet, find or drill a hole in your firewall and thread it through. If you don't want to go through that trouble you can just use a cigarette lighter plug
I bought this wiring harness
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00O72R7Z8/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1509824892&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=light%2Bbar%2Bwiring%2Bharness&dpPl=1&dpID=514cd74Z1UL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1
It’s basically plug and play. Wire the lights. I mounted the relay next to the battery. Connect to battery, then run switch wires through the firewall and into the dash. Took me two hours.
Big fan of Joe's Racing. http://www.amazon.com/Joes-Racing-32307-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B00404WDUC/
> shunt
cool I got this https://www.amazon.com/bayite-6-5-100V-Display-Multimeter-Voltmeter/dp/B013PKYILS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482213946&sr=8-1&keywords=shunt+12v
I got one of these Grom Audio units for my 2007.5 A4. It plugs in to the external CD changer port of the stock head unit. I didn't have an external CD changer, so no big deal for me. I'd you do have one you'll have to decide if it's worth losing it, or if you want to go with something else.
As for the unit itself, it mimics a CD and doesn't provide track or artist info on the display, but it does work with the steering wheel controls.
Installation is very easy. Order yourself a set of these stereo keys and you can have the unit installed in 15 minutes. No tools required.
I use Torque Pro on my android with a bluetooth ODBII scanner. It has helped me to diagnose some issues on a friend’s car. As well as see some benefits from some small fix-ups that I was not sure would be noticeable (eg. cleaning my MAF)
For tire pressure I use Joes racing gauge
There are a bunch of devices like this. For ac and dc. Amaz, ebay, etc
My solar controller gives me the data via the web. I use one of the above for monitoring what goes to the inverter. i could put in a ac ammeter. hmmm. Probably will at some point.
you would put one between your solar controller and batteries ... and another between battery and inverter.
not sure how to send the data to the web.
I had a similar issue with my XJ. Electronically there is no other form of resistance on the wire when off then the switch and over time it can wear out just like any other component. I installed this wiring harness that added relays to the circuit. not only does it brighten up your headlights but it removes the load from your switch. Its a really simple install, the hardest part is taking off the grill.
you need these. http://www.amazon.com/HELLA-760688000000-003399801-Supertone-Bracket/dp/B000CRZXPI
they work exceptionally well at tell someone to get the fuck out of the way.
I once watched a serious case of road rage happen in front of me on 85S. One guy kept swerving into the lane of the other guy, nearly hitting him multiple times. I got up as close as I was comfortable doing (my car had excellent brakes just in case) and just laid on the horn with the hellas. They got the hint and both chilled out and went about their business.