(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best exterior car care products

Heres how I detail both of my DR650s. As some of you might know I'm 100% rinseless. I don't think theres a good way to clean a chain with out water so I have always done a 2BM wash on my motorcycles. Now for motorcycle customers I don't clean their chain that is on them. That is a primary maintenance item that I will not do. The risk is far greater then the reward. Hope you enjoy the video! Edit: Side note took me about an hour for one of the bikes so about 2 hours for both.


List of everything I used:

• Lusso Auto Bathe: Not much suds but pretty good lubricity. I wouldn't use it again. I have filtered water so the water it self feels slippery.
  
  
• Meguiars Wheel\Tire Cleaner: Used for chain/wheels/tires. Really great cheap cleaner for wheels and tires.
  
  
• EZ Detail Brush: The blue brush in the video isn't sold anymore but this is still good.
  
  
• Boar's Hair Detailing Brush: Pretty good brush. Its a hit or miss on quailty. 1 of 3 that I have just keeps dropping fibers.
  
  
• Chenille Wash Mitt: Standard wash mitt works great.
  
  
• Ultima Waterless Wash Plus Concentrate: Amazing waterless wash. Great for drying as well.
  
  
• Double Mist Trigger Sprayer: Nothing special. Fun to play with.
  
  
• CarPro HydrO2: Works great 3 to 4 months of protection.
  
  
• Ryobi 40-Volt Blower: Great for yard work not so much blowing water. Get a corded blower mine was in the truck didn't feel like getting it out.
  
  
• Maxima Chain Wax: Works great but I would recommend DuPont Teflon Chain Wax Last longer. Just using up the last of the Maxima Chain Wax.
  
  
• Grunge Brush: Cleans the chain really well. Cleans 3 sides at a time means less work.
  
  Think thats everything. Enjoy!!

Magic Yoyo N9 or N12 from Amazon. They come in at ~$15 and ~$18, respectively. You can get a 100 pack of string for ~$20, depending on brand. Get a better bearing, I recommend a onedrop 10 ball, but everyone likes something different. You want thin lube for unresponsive, that's ~$5. Finally, response pads can be bought for ~$2 a set (you want the standard sized pads) or you can buy a tube of flowable silicone for $4.

Bearings - Everyone likes something different. I prefer onedrop 10 balls because they are quiet. You don't need a string centering bearing, it may have some effect, but it's not a massive difference. Each type of bearing has their positives and negatives.

Response - Flowable is the cheapest, since you can make numerous, ~20, sets from one tube. But having premade pads is nice, since there's no down day waiting for flowable to dry. Flowable is somewhat messy, but nothing major. Here's a tutorial, so you can get an idea of what is involved. There are numerous others on youtube.

String - Everyone likes something different. 100% polyester is the norm, but if you like cotton or a blend, go ahead. I adore Kitty Nylon. It's softer than polyester and lasts longer. It doesn't come in many colors, at least in bulk. Generally, everyone likes Kitty Normal. Good chance you'd like it too. String color does affect performance. The dyes all do different things to the material. Read more here!

Lube - Again, to each their own. Some people like lube, some don't. Bearings can be used with no lube, if you wish. A small amount of lube will make them more quiet. Don't be too worried about over lubing a bearing and making it responsive. You have to drown them to get them to do that.

Store links are in the sidebar. There's a good list of recommended throws in the sidebar as well, if you want more options. I just really like the Magic Yoyo models and they are really cheap. They are way better than their price tag lets on. I replace all my bearings and response pads as soon as I get a yoyo. So, I don't factor in having to immediately replace those parts. Simply, they aren't <$20, they are ~$30.

There's also a list of tutorial sites in the sidebar, so you can get back into learning ASAP.

I think got everything. Hope this helps. Have Fun and Good Luck!

Definitely look into the Two Bucket method. I'll give a brief explanation though. Basically the idea of the two buckets is to clean dirt and other grime off of the wash mitt after it touches the car. Just dunking a mitt back into the bucket of wash is not entirely effective at this. This is were the Grit Guard come in. One of these is in each bucket, used to rub your mitt on to free up dirt. One bucket has your wash and the other is just water. The process would be: Mitt into Wash. Clean panel. Mitt into Rinse, rub against Grit Guard. Mitt back to wash, rub against Grit Guard again. Back to Car. The Grit Guard will also help trap loose dirt particles at the bottom of the bucket. The whole idea of the whole bucket system is to cut down on transferring dirt from the mitt back onto the paint and scratching it.

As far as other supplies, it's already been suggested to check out the Bare Minimum Supplies List, but also have a look at the Massive Product List.

I'd recommend picking up a tire gel as well. These last longer and won't sling.

Also, a good dedicated wheel cleaner goes a long way. While it may be a bit pricey, Sonax Full Effect Wheel & Tire cleaner is amazing at cleaning brake dust and other grime. It's also pH balanced so it's safe on any surface.

I've used Megs Deep Crystal Wax and it does not hold up very well. Not sure if that's the exact one you have, but if you want something that's going to provide the best bang per buck, I'd go with Collinite #845 Insulator Wax. Amazingly easy application and removal.

If you want a semi-gloss shine for the interior, I'd use 303 Aerospace Protectant. Awesome stuff. Acts as SPF 45 for your interior plastics, rubbers, whatever. Also works great in the engine bay.

However, if you aren't looking to "upgrade" any products, I'd definitely say pick up a clay bar. I've had good luck with Griot's Garage clay bar. Also, I've got the Mother's Clay Bar Kit and that worked quite well also. If you are wondering if your car needs to be clay bar'd or not, there's a simple test you can do. The "plastic Bag" test is very simple and effective and showing how contaminated the paint of your vehicle is. Basically, just put your hand in a plastic bag and rub it along a lubricated surface of your car. If it feels rough, the car needs clay barring. I recently got a 10 year old used car and the paint felt like sandpaper. Took me forever to clay it, but it brought back a lot of the shine because there was so much contamination dulling the paint.

Oh! How many microfiber cloths you have? If you're in need, be sure to check out The Rag Company. The Microfiber I got from them is amazing.

Let me know if you have an questions and hopefully I didn't ramble too much.

I would reccomend these materials for the two bucket wash method. Its probably the most common method, and one of the safest. There are plenty of youtube how to's on this. These are the materials you'll need.

• Two buckets that will be used for the two bucket wash method. They can be purchased from a local home center for relatively cheap. $10
  
• Grit Guards. Preferably two, in order to prevent grit from reentering the wash mitt. $20
  
• Wash Mitt. Something like this will be just fine. $8
  
• Car soap. This is completely up to you. Something like Meguiar's Gold Class is fine. $10
  
  
• Wheel brush. Dependent on what you type of wheels you have. A quick amazon search will give you an idea. $10-20
  
• Sealant. I use Meguiar's M21. Not the best not the worst. Im sure others will chime in an have recommendations for you. $20.
  
• Wax. I don't use a wax because my car is older, and the sealant does just fine.
  
  
• Microfibers. The Rag Company has some great starter kits.
  
  Not Necessarily essentials, but recommended.
  
  
• Wheel cleaner. Something like Sonax. $15
  
• Clay Bar. This will be used to intitially remove contaminants from the car. Plenty of youtube how to's and kits can be found easily through amazon or your local auto parts store. $20
  
  I don't think you need anything like a DA at this point. Others will have recommendations for you, and I encourage you to take their advice as well. Some great youtube channels are Ammo NYC, Larry is a master at explaining how to's. He has is own line of products but they're expensive. You can even email him with questions and he'll respond quickly and go above and beyond to explain somethingto you. Junkman, also another great channel. Chemical Guys, they have some pretty good products but their customer service is shit. Their youtube videos are pretty good but all they do is upsell their products.
  
  I'm fairly new to detailing like you. I dont have the best products, but what I use seems to work for me. There are better products out there but budgets can only be so large.
  

First off, it's ok. I use those car washes often, because I don't have the facilities at home to wash my car there. Here's my step by step for easy, simple car care that does the 90% solution. (I.E. NOT paying $120+ for a detail, and NOT spending 6 hours on my car every week)

Go the the car wash, at night so the sun isn't baking the soap into your car.

Initially rinse the car at a low-power setting (usually not pulling the trigger on the wand will result in a half power spray) This is so that you aren't driving contaminates into your paint.

Soap the car down with the soap setting, still just spraying it. Soap the whole car and make sure to work top-down and the contaminates are running off.

Rinse car again. Rinse the brush too, very well. Feel it with your hand and ensure there's no grit.

Soap up car with brush, don't push hard, just light swirls.

Rinse car.

Immediately pull out shammy cloth or microfiber towels and dry car.

Go home for the rest of these steps.

buy Zymol brand cleaner wax

This stuff is fantastic. Ok, start on the top, spread a small, half dollar size squirt on the paint, and rub it out to cover 2-4 sq feet, keep rubbing and then stop, let it dry. (0-30 seconds, maybe as long as a minute) Then use a second cloth (dry) and rub it off, work in small circles. The paint below should be crystal clean and most of the slight spiderwebs in paint should be filled.

Do this to the whole car.

Go back and look over the paint. You'll find some deeper scrapes and scratches that aren't totally gone. That's ok. Use this: Meguiars Scratch-X It's great, use a small ammount (dime size) and rub into the scratches, polishing them and wipeing off the dried material with a second, clean dry cloth.

Now your whole car should be shiny, and not have any spider webs! Use any simple Meguiars brand polish to make it shine a bit more, but at this step I just use the spray on stuff.

Make sure to buy many many micro fiber towels. They are cheap. If you drop one on the ground, put it in the wash and grab another. I go through 8-10 when washing/ waxing. I know it sound common sense, but only use one for wax application, one for wax removal, one for glass, etc etc.

Now for wheels, I use this: TUFF STUFF It's safe for everything, it's also what I use to remove stains in the interior and clean my floor mats. It's super cheap and works great!! Spray on a wheel, wait 30 seconds, wipe off. Removes 90% of road grime and brake dust immediately. May need to touch up a couple spots. Rinse wheel off. Spray tire foam on the tire, wipe off excess.

Your car should look great and be scratch free. I will typically go out and 3-4 days later gently wipe off my car with micro fiber towels, and then go over with the quick detail spray by meguiars. Takes 10-15 minutes and the car instantly goes back to looking like I just washed it. During the summer I'll do this 2-3 times between real serious washings, so I only have to wash fully once a month!

(but my car is silver and easier to keep clean)

>What stones do you suggest outside of the diamond lansky system? I want to make mirror polished edges if possible. I have a few crappier knives to practice on.

I bought the deluxe kit and later on bought accessories like diamond, curved hones, ect. The diamond certainly is worth it and Lansky's diamond stones are pretty good.

As for what to get (these are cheaper on other sites, but I'm just referring to Lansky's for information sake), I'd suggest:

Ultra Fine/1000 grit/"Yellow". Comes standard in most kits, and is an excellent polishing stone.

"Blue Sapphire"/2000 grit. Sold separate, but worth it. Can put a glistening nearly/ready-for mirror edge on a blade.

Leather strop. Absolute must buy. It's a regular Lansky hone with a good quality piece of leather on it. Apply your preferred compound and strop away. Best way to finish and with the the right compounds can make mirror edges.

Curved hones In case you have any curved knife blades.

Serration/triangle hone For serrations, if you need to sharpen them (there's also a few other grits other than that, too).

Also worth mentioning a stand for Lansky clamps is available (so is a C-clamp variant). In case you get tired of wrist movements, ect. Pretty convenient.

>Also, any advice on compounds for strops

http://stropman.com/ - I buy all 4 (black/course, white/medium, green/fine, red rouge/ultra fine). Great compounds and not that chalky dried out shit you'll find elsewhere (seriously, to hell those compounds where you have to heat it/melt it on). These will apply just by using hand pressure on a strop and rubbing it in quickly like a crayon.

I also use Flitz polishing paste, simply because it's convenient to have (Flitz is damned near magical). Doesn't apply to a hard piece of strop leather (the kind that isn't potmarked and with lots of give) very well. The softer and more rough/natural kind will take to it like a fish in water, however.

I've also used Tormek's honing compound. It, too, is pretty good. As for the grit compared to Flitz, I'd say it's more aggressive but slightly less in finish.

>and oil for bearings/general use

In a pinch, Singer sewing machine oil.

The best lube I've come across, however, is Sentry Solutions' Tuf-Glide. It's absolutely mind-blowing when you first use a lube of that quality and realize how much is lessens friction. Protects decently from moisture as well.

Definitely check out /r/AutoDetailing where I learned my method.

The way I do it:

Equipment:

1. Optimum no rinse I use the green version (the one linked) that has wax, but there's also a blue one without wax. Either one is fine I just prefer this one.
   
   
2. Bucket. Any clean one will do.
   
   
3. A shit ton of microfiber towels. The Rag Company is a popular brand to go with. I just go with a pack from costco and they work fine for me.
   
   
4. Spray bottle. 1-2.
   
   
5. Isopropyl alcohol. Dilute it down so it's 10-20% in concentration. Put it in the spray bottle or use a cup/bucket.
   
   
6. Nanoskin or clay. I use nanoskin so I linked that. Otherwise just get some clay. Most people in /r/autodetailing say any brand of clay is usually fine. I use nanoskin because it's a bit quicker and I have a new car so it works fine. Some people seem to say that clay gets your car a bit cleaner, but it's not worth the time trade off for me especially since my car is still new-ish so still clean.
   
   
7. Opti-seal. I like using this because it's quick, easy and works great. Gives a good shine too.
   
   Washing:
   
   
8. Use the rinseless method. You'll find it in the wiki of autodetailing. To prep: dilute ONR down to the recommended amount in your bucket. Fill up spray bottle. Throw microfiber towels in the bucket in the rest of the solution. Ring out the towel so it's not sopping wet, but there's still solution. Fold the microfiber towels into four.
   
   
9. Work on only one car panel at a time. Spray the panel with the ONR. Wipe panel down firmly, but not really hard, with one side of your towel. Then turn to a different side of the towel. Do not re-use that side of your towel. Use a fresh side of the towel for every panel. Use a dry towel to wipe off that panel so there are no water streaks. Repeat until your car is washed. ONR works fine on glass too so you can just do your windows as well.
   
   Rinseless washing is great when your car is mildly to semi-dirty. This means if it's mostly just dust on your car this is great. Otherwise if it's caked with mud this won't work. You'll have to go somewhere to hose your car off with water first so it's not as dirty.
   
   Clay Bar/Nanoskin:
   
   Note: This is only necessary if there are actually micro-contaminants. I would do it on a new car regardless since it has been sitting on a lot. On a normal basis you only need to do when your car doesn't feel glass smooth after a wash. Usually no more than 1-2 times a year.
   
   
10. Because you can also use ONR as your clay lube I just pour out my bottle of ONR spray back into the bucket and pour in enough ONR until it gets to the concentration needed. ONR says 2oz per gallon of water. Fill your spray bottle back up with the new concentration.
    
    
11. Here you'll be working with small sections of a panel at a time. I suggest you just look up a youtube video on how to clay a car. Basically though you spray the section, clay/nanoskin the section until smooth, and wipe off the section with a dry towel. Repeat for your whole car. Note that you'll have to massage the clay or wash off your nanoskin every so often to get rid of those contaminants.
    
    Sealant/wax:
    
    After you're done with claying your paint is clean so you'll want to put wax/sealant on it to protect it. It'll make your car nice and shiny too.
    
    Start with an isopropyl alcohol wipe. What I do is dunk a towel in the alcohol solution and wipe down every panel and drying after it. You can also just fill another spray bottle with it and spray. This will get rid of oil/wax/sealant so the sealant goes directly on the paint. Then just apply the sealant/wax on following the instructions. With opti-seal you just spray and wipe. With some other items you'll need to apply and wait to cure and buff out any remaining wax/sealant.
    
    For wheels and tires I suggest you just check out the wiki on autodetailing. I just simply wipe off the tires with ONR but ONR isn't the best at getting oil. I'm too lazy though to worry about it too much as long as the wheels look clean it's fine with me.
    
    I'm lazy and do a rinseless wash 1-2 times (usually 1) a month. Some do it weekly. I put sealant on every 3-4 months or so. I've only clayed my current car once so far.
    
    

Hey guys i'm new to this detailing scene..but I do hope to learn a lot from everyone! I have an 05' white civic and the exterior isn't terrible, but there's definitely parts where there's medium oxidation and swirl marks. Just overall the paint doesn't feel glossy and smooth, just weathered and feels like metal.

Please let me know if I got the steps correct...any inputs is greatly appreciated!

1. First do a thorough wash, and dry completely.
   
2. Clay bar the entire exterior (I'm going to use http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002U2V1Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)
   
3. Here's where I don't know what I should do...do I compound or is that not necessary? I'm thinking if I skip compounding, I will use Scratch X (http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10307-Scratch-X-2-0/dp/B0002UNON8)
   
4. Then I will Polish with This: http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Ultimate-Polish-16-oz/dp/B004HCOE8Q
   
5. What do you recommend I do next? Could I follow the Mother's 3-step Ultimate Wax starting with this product? http://www.amazon.com/MOTHERS-07100-California-Gold-Polish/dp/B0002U26QE
   
   

• By the way, as you see I have attached the pictures...what do I do with the oxidation on the exterior windshield trim?
  
• Next, this paint damage, I was thinking to get a touchup paint from the dealership, but how should I apply this?
  
• Lastly, whats the most effective way to clean this part..the door jambs?
  
  Thanks so much for all your suggestions and inputs. I hope to learn a lot from all of you.
  
  PS. Extra question, I'm doing a roadtrip after the detail...(stupid i know) but what's a good product to get rid of the bug stains while I'm out on the road?
  
  THANKS!!
  

You have quite the garage going there, and a good list of car care items. I was keeping up with a family and 3 cars, so my extra detail time was never quite abundant over the last few years. I previously had an arsenal of products like you, but narrowed it down to 3 to simplify and ease my busy life. I really liked the Nu Finish Liquid Polish and then gravitated to the wash last to cover was the plastic, rubber, and leather protectant. I had a couple different products, but the NuVinyl did all, including leather, that armor-all (basic) does not. As mentioned, I just had to simplify for many reasons and this worked for me. It may not be the professional kit of choice, but 3 products help keep my 3 cars in great shape.

And as far as applying compounds, polishes, or waxes, I spent years doing it by hand until I gave Meguiar's DA Power System a shot. Costs more then by hand (initially), but it goes quicker and produces a better product. This is the only product I tried, I am sure there are plenty of other options out there. Good luck cleaning!

Cleaning a knife is easy. You can pretty much use any sort of solvent you've got handy, but if its too strong it may take off your blade labels. Start with water. It's actually a pretty good solvent. You'd be surprised how well it works most of the time. Afterwards make sure you dry it good and wipe the whole thing down with a good machine oil.

Or pick up a specialized metal polish. I like Simichrome. It's a great cleaner/polisher/protectant all in one step, but there are several good products on the market. A tube of something like that and a drop of oil for the pivot is really all you should ever need.

Microfiber list looks pretty good! You may want to add a few of these for other various purposes so you don't use your nicer more expensive towels for extra dirty stuff like around your exhaust or wheels/wheel wells/in your engine bay. Also I'm pretty sure you can get a bucket with a screw on lid at home depot for pretty cheap, but all in all it's not a bad kit because it comes with the soap and grit guard and wash mitt. As for the bucket for your supplies, again I'm sure there's something cheaper at home depot.

Chemical guys makes some pretty good stuff and some pretty bad stuff. They're more of a marketing brand than a good detailing product brand. I'd replace the glass cleaner with Stoner Invisible Glass...can also be found at walmart or autozone usually.

Their degreaser is good and can be diluted so it should last a while. Never used their wheel cleaner, but it looks okay. The microfiber detergent isn't necessary really, just get something like this for a lot cheaper. Just make sure you wash your microfibers separately and DO NOT use fabric softener on them. Be aware that some detergents have fabric softener mixed in. Do not use those detergents. The tire brush is good, but you may also want one like this to get into the inside of your wheels more.

This a a copy reply to a post from yesterday with pretty much the same question. This should help. YouTube the "Garry Dean Wash method" and do it that way.
___
Look into towels from The rag Company the [Eagle Edgeless] (https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Professional-Microfiber-Detailing/dp/B00GXRG64I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465578999&sr=8-1&keywords=rag+company) , [platinum pluffle] (https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Professional-Microfiber-Detailing/dp/B01691FHKQ/ref=pd_sim_263_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=51ZnYnkDerL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=T72HWKSGJSNY28KCRR5N) and the [creature edgless] (https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Professional-Dual-Pile-Microfiber/dp/B01CW21D9U/ref=pd_sim_263_23?ie=UTF8&dpID=61mdEodibyL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=4930TCHKYCSNPB5QDMAF) are my favorite. They are just better quality then CG towels and are perfect for using the "Garry Dean" wash method which is good for apartment dwellers.

EDIT: Also look into [WolfGang Uber] (https://www.amazon.com/Wolfgang-WG-3700-Uber-Rinse-less/dp/B017KSJ5ZK/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1465579171&sr=1-1&keywords=wolfgang+uber) rinseless wash. Its more costlier but WELL WORTH it to me. I just got a gallon of it from their website. I use it for my business on some customers vehicles and they notice when I do. Its by far my favorite rinseless out there that I have used. I have tried numerous different ones. [ONRWW] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GG9FB8U/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465708329&sr=sr-1&keywords=optimum+no+rinse+wash+%26+wax) is good, don't get me wrong but I've had it streak and [ONR] (https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1465708329&sr=8-2&keywords=optimum+no+rinse+wash+%26+wax) stains my wash media. I've never had a single issue with WG Uber and it smells like cherry candy. I feel like drinking the bottle every time I use it which makes it great to work with.

I would have taken more photos but I didn't set out with the intention of making a post; however, when I saw the results I knew I had to.

Like I said, this mini van only set me back $300. But just because it's a cheap turd doesn't mean you can't take some pride in it and at least put a ribbon on it.

Anyways, I'll add some more details left out of the post.

First I mixed up regular ole dish soap and water and grabbed some 1000 grit wet/dry sand paper, dunked it in the solution and let it soak while I taped off my headlights. I don't think you have to let it soak, but that's what I did. Once I finished taping off the lights, I started wet sanding and just redunked as needed for adequate lubrication.

Now I've read some posts on here about people saying it's easier to see when you're done sanding if you go in one direction for a certain grit and the opposite in another so you can see sanding lines. I didn't do that either. I just sanded it til I felt it was smooth and/or had been doing it for a couple minutes; up, down, left, right, circles. Whatever. It worked out for me.

Repeat exact same procedure for 2000 grit wet/dry sand paper.

Now, if you've never done this before you might start to get nervous, because at this stage your headlights look (somehow) even worse than when you started. Fret not my friend. Patience is a virtue.

Now I have a DA polisher, but these headlights are narrow. So I opted at just purchasing a generic named 3" backing plate, drill adapter and pad combo set off amazon. Some of the reviews said it wasn't the greatest. But that was fine by me. I just wanted them for this headlight. Those reviewers are wrong. I think they were thinking you could do an entire vehicle with these 3" pads. The pads and backing plate were high quality and for that price, even if they weren't I wouldn't have been all that upset. I highly recommend these.

I used the two flat top oranges pads for this project. First I used M105. Polished til it "flashed" then buffed it off with a microfiber towel. Switched to my other orange pad and polished with M205 following the same procedure.

Then I stood in awe of how great they came out. Did a wipe down with isopropyl alcohol, and two coats of collinite 845 that I applied with some cheap microfiber applicators for future uv protection.

Then I went and excitedly rushed my girlfriend outside to see. She was impressed but decidedly less than me.

Also, while I was doing this, a man approached me and asked me how much I'd charge to do his car. I talked with him a bit, and informed him that for the price I would charge to do his one car he'd be better off doing some research, buying his own supplies and just learning a new skill. He thought about it and excitedly told me he already had a drill and that he decided he'd do it. He went on to say he was also going to do not just his car, but also his mom's car and his girlfriend's car. He wrote down everything I said! Haha,I hope his come out as well as mine!

Edit: formatting/spelling

This won't make it look perfect, but it will improve it a LOT.

First you need to gently clean it up best you can. I would use this stuff, but any polishing compound or liquid rubbing compound should work. Don't rub hard with this stuff, just light pressure your only trying to clean it up and give yourself a good surface for the touch up paint.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G18116-Clear-Polishing-Compound/dp/B006FUT154/

Next get some touch up paint for you car, you can get your cars paint code from any Subaru dealer if you give them your VIN number. You can get the touch up paint from either a Subaru dealer, online, or someplace like Auto Zone.

When touching up the paint less is more, so try to use very little paint and multiple coats.

After the touch up paint has dried then use something like this and just keep polishing it and slowly it will begin to blend in better and better.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B003LMJP4Q/

Again this isn't the best fix possible but is probably the most affordable fix for the quality you'll end up with if you do everything correctly.

honestly, i wouldn't get either of those. yeah they're both good, but you really don't need all of that.

what i use:

griot's garage clay

meguairs soap

mothers cleaner wax

nu finish

and of course a (or a couple) 5 gallon buckets with a grit guard , which is completely not necessary, but highly recommended by professional detailers. i don't use one, and my car comes out fine. and a good, soft wash mitt. either a good sponge or a wheel brush for your wheels would be needed as well.

my once a year routine is as follows:

wash, claybar, nu polish, cleaner wax

usually wash every 2 weeks or so, and rewax every 6 weeks or so. if i did a bunch of off roading and the paint is gritty i'll clay as needed, but usually it's once a year.

also head over to /r/autodetailing for a lot of tips. beware though that they use a lot of very high end products, and circle jerk over polishing and getting perfect reflections. if all you're looking to do is keeping your paint in good condition, then what i do is just fine. if you're interested in keeping your paint better than factory, follow them.

I'll give my /r/AutoDetailing inspired rundown. I live in an apartment so a lot of this is extra hassle if you have access to water.

2 Bucket (apartment) Method Wash

• 5 gallon bucket of water (w/grit guard)
  
  
• 5 gallon bucket premixed soap and grit guard
  
  
  • Lids for transportation
    
    
• Head down to the local self service wash. The kind with the foamy brush and pressure washer. (ONLY THERE FOR THE WATER)
  
  
• I follow 2 Bucket method above but my process is a bit different since I'm paying for the water.
  
  
  • Clean wheels/wheel wells, exhaust tips, rinse, wet car and remove built up debris/bugs with remaining time
    
    
  • Clean roof, windows, hood, front, rinse
    
    
  • Clean driver side (not bottom), back, passenger side (not bottom), go back and clean bottom of sides, rinse
    
    
    • If time remaining, switch to low pressure for final rinse
      
      
• Dry car and head home!
  
  My personal favorite wax is Collonite #845. I also like Griot's Best in Show since it can be found in big box stores locally.
  
  I would also recommend a paint protection such as Cquartz as extra protection against winters and daily driving.
  
  The absolute #1 rule to keeping your car swirl free, NEVER USE AUTOMATIC CAR WASHES.

You can totally DIY paint correct with a dual action polisher.

Here’s a straightforward shopping list and guide. This will knock out most if not all of your swirl marks.

Shopping List:

Machine Polisher - PORTER-CABLE Variable Speed Polisher, 6-Inch (7424XP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002654I46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l7SADbKPP1Q6Q

Backing Pad - Astro 4607 5" PU Velcro Backing Pad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CH3Z8W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_T7SADbZ187WK1

Bugging Pads - Chemical Guys HEX_3KIT_5 5.5" Buffing Pad Sampler Kit (4 Items), 16. Fluid_Ounces, 4 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J588UNG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_d9SADb8WF470V

Compound - Meguiar's G17220 Ultimate Compound, 20 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W5HCZ9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_M9SADb0ADEMZJ

Finishing Polish - Meguiar's M20532 Mirror Glaze Ultra Finishing Polish, 32 Fluid Ounces, 1 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001O7PNXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_i-SADbWXADMQT

Wax - Your preference

Here’s the guide:

1 – Tool Prep

Set aside the dual-action polisher, backing pad, and foam pads. Remove the included backing plate that’s already attached to the Porter Cable polisher, use the included wrench. Re-attached using the Astro pad, secure tightly.

2 – Wash

Wash your car by hand, preferably using the two-bucket method. Afterward, move the car into your garage or shaded area. You’ll want to be out of direct sunlight, keeping the paint as cool as possible.

3 – Clay Bar

Clay bar the entire car. Make sure to wipe down the finish afterward, keeping it as clean as possible.

4 – Compound Buffing

Grab your machine polisher, the Ultimate Compound, and the orange pad. Attach the pad to the polisher using the velcro backing, make sure it’s centered. Prime the pad by dabbing 8-10 dime-sized amounts across the surface. Start working one section at a time, around 2 x 2 feet. Before you turn on the polisher, press the pad against the paint. Compound polish should be soaked within the pad, along with the paint. Press the pad against the surface, set to speed setting 2-3, and begin spreading the compound around in quick passes. Then, turn it up to 5-6 and let the fun begin. Use overlapping, slow passes. Once you’re done, wide the area clean with a microfiber towel.

5 – Inspection

Check out your results of the first section. Go over the area again if most of the swirl marks aren’t gone. If the swirls are gone, but a light haze is present, don’t worry. The finishing polish will take care of it.

6 – Polish Buffing

Use the M205 Finishing Polish with the white pad. Follow the same steps from before. Prime the pad and rub it against the paint before turning on the polisher. Use a max speed of 3-4 with medium pressure. The Finishing Polish will take care of the rest of the haze and micro scratches. Once you’re finished with the first section, wipe clean.

7 – Inspection

Again, check out the results of the M205 Finishing Polish. It’s doubtful you’ll need more than one application, but double-check all the same. If it’s looking great, move on and finish the rest of your car.

8 – Wax

Your paint is looking great. The swirl marks are gone, leaving a bright clean finish. Apply the wax using the black foam pad. Use very light pressure, letting the pad float along with the paint. You’re just coating your car’s finish, that’s all. Wipe clean with a microfiber towel.

Here's a long thing I wrote for a friend just getting started. It was an email and i don't feel like fixing links.

1. Menzerna (Now called Jescar) Power lock Sealant:
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050IQH9K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
2. Optimum Spray Wax (this is a topper wax to go on top the sealant, or touch up areas any time):
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GG9FI8I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
3. Meguiar's Drying Towels (I HIGHLY recommend these, super effective) I got 2:
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQZFM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
4. Mother's detailer kit (gives you detail spray, clay bars, and micro fiber towel as a bonus)
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Mothers-07240-California-Gold-System/dp/B0002U2V1Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1476666101&sr=8-3&keywords=mother%27s+detail+kit
   
   
5. Applicator pads
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Viking-862400-Blue-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B0051MYL8E/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1476666178&sr=8-3&keywords=wax+applicator
   
   
6. Buffing towels (for buffing in the wax or sealant)
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Detailing-Multi-Use-Microfiber-Professional-Dual-Pile/dp/B01L4L4L26/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1476666651&sr=8-17&keywords=microfiber+buffing+towel
   
   
   
7. Proper wash mitt (just a microfiber towel won't cut it) - there's also a 2 pack with prime.
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3002-Microfiber-Wash-Mitt/dp/B000RXKR6M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476667551&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+wash+mitt
   
   
8. Car wash (this can be found at any autozone like store as well, this is a big bottle)
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05664-California-Gold-Wash/dp/B0009H51B2/ref=sr_1_9?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1476668207&sr=8-9&keywords=car+wash&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011
   
   
   
   
   Do you have 2 buckets to use? Always set one bucket up with the soap water, and the other with just water. Soak up your mitt, wash the car, rinse the mitt, then soak again in the soap water. This helps reduce contaminants. If you want to go the extra mile, get these for the buckets to prevent dirt from swashing around the bucket:
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Grit-Guard-Insert-Red-Diameter/dp/B000N3W8J0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1476667750&sr=8-2&keywords=grit+guard
   
   It fits in a home depot bucket.
   
   If you have particularly pesky tar or bugs on the car, you'll need this that you can get from any autozone type store:
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Stoner-Car-Care-Tarminator-Remover/dp/B0002LBGWI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476667917&sr=8-1&keywords=tarminator
   
   WARNING **
   
   When using the power lock (or any sealant / non-liquid wax), DO NOT let it touch any black plastic or rubber parts of the car!!!!! If it does, just wipe it off with a wet micro fiber cloth. Failure to follow this will result in a white hue on the black piece. You could always painter's tape off those areas that are hard to avoid.
   
   Steps for this process:
   
   
9. wash the car, two bucket method with wash mitt.
   
   1b) Bring the car to an area with as little sun light as possible for the next steps!
   
   
10. Leave car wet. Use detail spray to keep all surfaces lubricated. Rub all surfaces down with a flat piece of the clay bar (flatten in your hand). About 2" diameter or so. Every panel or when the clay bar looks dirty, just kneed it a few times, folding it and re-flattening it. Every so often, throw out the clay and get some more. If you drop the clay on the ground, it's garbage throw it out. Each clay bar should last you multiple details of your whole car, just tear pieces off.
    
    
11. Dry the car down with the MF drying towels. Buff in any water spots, streaks, etc from the detail spray. If an area needs a little extra love, spray some detail spray on it and rub her in.
    
    
12. Use applicator pad. Apply a bit of sealant on the pad, even it out in the pad, and apply a thin layer of wax across the paint surface (NOT BLACK TRIM). You can use sealant on windows if you desire. Re-apply sealant to the applicator pad whenever you need more.
    
    
13. let the sealant dry (20-30 minutes, depending on conditions). It will haze when dry.
    
    
14. Use buffing cloths to wipe the haze out. You may need to do some hand "buffing", use different angles of sight to make sure the paint is now completely smooth and clean.
    
    
15. Let dry a bit, 20 minutes?
    
    
16. Spray VERY LIGHTLY with the optimum spray wax on paint surfaces. There are 2 settings on the bottle, make sure it is on the setting that spreads out the wax not a stream.
    
    
17. Buff in the spray wax with buffing towels.
    
    
18. ENJOY protection. Watch the beads of water fly off the car for the entire season.

as a general rule of thumb anything with meguiars on the label will be a reasonably priced, good mid range product to use on your car, for an average person. not the best in the world but also you cant really go wrong with it.

• i use this for leather
  
  
  
  
  if you are interested
  
  
• This is a good shampoo (Gold Class)
  
  
• this for keeping in the boot for cleaning off the bird shit (do that as soon as you see it no matter how crazy you look in the parking lot (Quick Detailer)
  
  
• this about once a month to keep the paint protected (21 Synthetic Sealant )
  
  
• This for the wash's where i cant be bothered to used the 21. (Spray wax)
  
  (tbh the spray wax and quick detailer can be interchanged, on a technical level they preform slightly different functions, but for the average person who just wants a clean reasonably shiny car it will be fine.)
  
  just make sure any microfiber cloths you use are kept clean and free from grit or you will scratch the paint.
  
  if you are really sad like me give the ammo nyc youtube channel a watch https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SLUuiMnlhc0 i find them very relaxing to watch not sure why, but also shows lot of "best practice" for keeping your car in good condition.

>Best seat covers?

Get permaplate option, this will cover external and interior. Enjoy the seats without seat covers, I did put a seat cover so the baby car seat was on the cover.

>Best dash cams?

I really want this dash cam Blackvue DR590, saving up for one.

>Charging cable ok in weather?

I have been doing research on Chargepoint level 2 home charger. Its weather proof and if you install the 220v 32A version you can charge your car in 2 hours.

>Battery efficiency on the highway?

I only had my Prius Prime for a week now, hybrid works well. Drive in B mode and plan out your trips so you can charge at your destination. For example, we started to go to Target because they have a Chargepoint station. We shop for about 2 hours and by the time we get back to the car is fully charged. We can do all of our shopping using EV only.

>Toyota service centers only?

I got the extended maintenance plan so yes for me only Toyota service.

>Get that extended warranty or no?

I got the 7 year extended maintenance because I already know how much the dealer ship will charge for normal maintenance. I just want to have the peace of mind knowing everything is covered and did not want to deal is any issues. Plus if you get it during purchase I believe its at a bigger discount. Because I sign up for it the dealer ship gave me LoJack for free and 72 month financing 0 APR.

>Any reassurance that I made the right choice not waiting for the 2018?

I was thinking the something, at the moment you have a big advantage because they are trying to sell off the rest of the 2017 to make room for the 2018 models. I want to say you have more power to haggle, for example I was able to get 72 month 0 APR financing, free LoJack and $3000 off the asking price because I mention the local special and because I was prior military.

Additional accessories:
Black License Plate Frame
Auto Document Case
Neck Pillow
No Rinse Wash & Wax

Congratulation on the new car!

I bought it off amazon. it's around $50 https://www.amazon.com/Carpro-Cquartz-30-Ml-Kit/dp/B005DZJ7VA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1496839515&sr=8-2&keywords=cquartz

there's three types (maybe more)

Cquartz

Cquartz UK (for lower temperature applications)

Cquarts Finest (has to be done by a certified shop not for the home gamer)

either way it's really not for your home gamer if you ask me. it's essentially a clear coat that you're adding over top of your paint. it cures hard and beads water relatively well. it has a ~2 year life to where the surface essentially stays as protected as wax but you don't have to wax.

it's longevity really depends on how you wash your car and the damage it takes on. I'm expecting to get about 3 years out of this maybe 4 since I garage it and it's not my daily.

you have to have your paint as flat as you can (paint correction) before you apply it because it does not fill or hide scratches, they need to be removed first. what it will do is lock them in. if you apply it too thick and don't buff it out by hand before it cures they only way to remove it is to polish it back out and reapply.


the application went easy enough for me because I was anal about the process. your car has to be completely decontaminated before you apply it (no oils, no wax, no nothing) to do that I wiped it down with car pro eraser and then a wipe down with IPA (alcohol)



if you haven't done a paint correction and haven't done much detailing and what not I wouldn't even look at it unless you're gonna get a detail shop to do it for you. What I would recommend is a great wax that is cheap and lasts a long time. collonite 845. it's awesome shit, you can get a bottle for under $20 and it'll last years. the wax when applied will protect your car for roughly 6 months. it's great shit, just wash/clay and wax with collonite. It's easy to apply, easy to buff off and beads water like a mofo, it also will fill in minor scratches) it's what I always used before I went for a 2 week long paint correction and decided to lock it in a bit better with cquartz

I've done everything from the exact interval as specified by the service manual, to maybe not lubing a chain for a whole year on one bike a long time ago.

My experience has been that you SHOULD keep your chain lubed, but also, a high quality chain like a DID x-ring will put up with an amazing amount of use even if you push the interval farther than suggested.

The number one most important point in this discussion, IMVHO, is that you inspect your chain (and sprockets!) frequently and with a careful eye. If you do this often, you should be able to catch any issues developing with your chain before they become a chain failure.

If you see visible rust, its time for a hardcore cleaning and re-lube. I like kerosene and a chain brush for cleaning, and a wax based spray lube for relubrication. A scottoiler is a great addition to any bike as long as you don't mind doing the install and keeping an eye on it to ensure it is dripping at the correct rate (and to refill it before it runs dry).

I clean my bike after almost every single ride. Sounds like overkill, but I live in a rural area with a lot of bugs.

I'm a bucket and hose guy. I usually just use some generic car wash soap from walmart with a decent car wash brush/sponge thing. For stubborn bugs, I've found that those fluffy round things that girls use in the shower work pretty good and don't leave scratches. I bought a pack of quality microfiber cloths to dry it down.

I'm still experimenting with different brands and types of wax for the painted pieces, so if anyone has any suggestions I'd love to hear them.

Finally, I polish the chrome. I've tried a few different brands and they were okay, but then I found THE ONE. This stuff is great, and not just on chrome. It made stainless steel pieces shine like I've never seen before. If you have chrome, you need this polish, thank me later.

/r/Autodetailing

Great resource,

EZ Detail Brush Big https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LOP5IA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_.McQzb8ANQSFG

A couple of friends recommended this.

I cant comment on it since I use microfibers but my wheels are really easy to clean.

I can imagine for wheels like the stock ones a brush like the one linked would be very good

https://smile.amazon.com/Flitz-BU-03515-Plastic-Fiberglass/dp/B001447VB2/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=Flitz%2BPolish&qid=1556752685&s=gateway&sr=8-6&th=1&psc=1

Here’s the link for the one I use, I use it both with a buffing bit for my dremel and manually with a microfiber cloth. I told someone else today that the dremel option is great if you’re impatient (like me.), and it will give you a beautiful shine just like that, but I personally think that rubbing it really hard on a microfiber cloth by hand makes it shinier sometimes, but even when I do use the dremel I like to give it a few rubs on the microfiber cloth afterwards as well, I feel like it helps. I’m not completely certain of how well it will “cover up” the seem in your pieces, but it does shine up the scuffs I sometimes get in my resin jewelry pieces, so I feel like it will at least help to cover it a little bit!

Touchless car washes don't do shit to clean your car. I spent about $8 on that useless machine, and there was still a layer of dirt on my front/rear bumper, side skirts, and grill. Best thing to do if you're on a budget is buy one of these [microfiber wash mitt] (http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-Chenille-Microfiber-Scratch-Free/dp/B003TTL0TE/ref=lp_3020674011_1_2?srs=3020674011&ie=UTF8&qid=1454030316&sr=8-2) and the next time you head over to one of those self service car washes just pre-soak the car and the mit and scrub one panel at a time and rinse off the mitt with the pressure hose.

Edit : If you're not on a budget i would recommend doing the 2 bucket car wash method once a week or so. After about 4-6 months i would clay bar the vehicle and use ONR as a lubricant. There are many sealants out there, but only a few can last nearly 6 months. Chemical guys has some great sealants and waxes, but they have so many that it confuses the shit out of people. Save yourself the hassle and get some Jet Seal, some microfiber applicators and some microfiber towels and you're set.

Edit 2: Here is a list of tested waxes and sealants i found on the interwebs a few weeks back http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=85205

These have been shown to have lasted more than 4 months

"Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection
Chemical Guys: M-Seal, Jetseal 109, Speed Amor
Klasse AIO and Sealant Glaze
Hi Temp Paste
Zaino AIO, Z2 and Z5
Wolfgang Deep Gloss Sealant."

You want to use a cutting compound, then a polisher, then a wax and polisher mix, then a wax. It can be done by hand but it'll be tedious work, a polisher is recommended. you can get a 6 inch polisher on Amazon for cheap

[Cutting compound] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B001O7PNW8/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2X258V2JG0MWL&keywords=cutting+compound&qid=1570408658&sprefix=cutting+compound%2Caps%2C213&sr=8-3)

[Polisher compound] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Clear-Coat-Polishing-Compound/dp/B006FUT154/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2GPHAWV9X86T2&keywords=polishing+compound&qid=1570408671&sprefix=polish%2Caps%2C203&sr=8-5)

[Wax] (https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-Polishing-Compound-Scratch/dp/B0009JKGJ2/ref=sr_1_7?crid=1QLIV2CDVRQM8&keywords=wax+compound+for+cars&qid=1570408763&sprefix=wax+compo%2Caps%2C190&sr=8-7)

[Orbital Polisher] (https://www.amazon.com/DECKER-WP900-6-Inch-Random-Polisher/dp/B000077CPT/ref=sr_1_5?crid=PM4UWG6DWJ5C&keywords=polisher+machine+for+car&qid=1570408680&sprefix=polisher%2Caps%2C196&sr=8-5)

I also recommend you completely clean the spot with a clay bar as well so you don't scratch the paint more with crud that's already imbedded in the paint.

[Clay bar] (https://www.amazon.com/IPELY-Detailing-Magic-Cleaner-Clean/dp/B0753FSQN6?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_5)

Good luck!

Menzerna Micro Polish SF 4500 - An extremely gentle polish used to prep paint prior to sealing/wax. Works extremely well with Subaru's soft paint.

Chemical Guys JetSeal 109 - No experience with this yet, but good reviews. I'm looking into a few other options for my first paint sealant (just prior to winter). Adds an additional layer of protection between the wax and clear coat.

Colinite 845 - Best wax I've found. Durable, easy to apply and even smells good. Wax is the first line of defense between the elements and your paint. I wax my current vehicle once a month on average. It depends on the weather if I have to do it more/less often. Rule of thumb for me is to re-apply when it stops beading.

You should be able to simply glue that back on. Can you press it back into place with your hands? Does it sit nice and flat? Someone can probably recommend a better adhesive, but I've had really good luck with 3M Spray Adhesive.

As for the glass damage, I would use a silicone sealer like this: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81730-Flowable-Silicone-Windshield/dp/B000BKEBO0

If you can apply it from the inside that's probably best. Hopefully the outer face of the glass isn't damaged at all. The sealant can fill in the back and keep it from getting worse/keep water from getting in behind the mirror.

Hey you can try hand buffing it with Meguiar's ScratchX. http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10307-ScratchX-2-0-oz/dp/B0002UNON8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404933405&sr=8-1&keywords=scratchX

It will take a lot of work, but you should be able to visibly improve it with a lot of elbow grease. Wash car, use clay bar, wash car again, scratch x the scratch, apply polish, apply wax. When using scratchX, work in a shaded area, work a 6 inch area of the car at a time, spread the product evenly and work it in circles for about a couple minutes. Repeat 5-10 times. Then cover with a wax protectant / sealant.

Products I recommend:

Meguiar's Scratch X, Meguiar's Soft Foam "4 applicator pads, Meguiar's Supreme shine microfiber, Gold Class wax.

This kit has everything you need, but I recommend picking up some extra foam applicator pads and supreme shine microfiber towels: http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G55032-Complete-Car-Care/dp/B0012ZEZ8A/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1404932960&sr=8-7&keywords=scratchX

I would buy a high quality paste or liquid wax for use over a sealer. For wax I like Meguiars Ultimate or Mother's California Gold. They're both really nice waxes in my experience.

For a sealer, I highly recommend Chemical Guys Jet Seal. It adds a really nice layer of shine and water/dirt repellency.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001TFE38A/

In terms of interior products, I'd recommend you stay away from oil-based products (armour all and the like) as they can form a layer of product and dirt over time that makes difficult to clean the dash. Go with a water-based product like 303 Aerospace Protectant https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00AJVP7T4/ it lasts awhile and it gives a more natural finish. And being that it's water-based, it's much easier to remove / clean up should you need to. It doesn't have that 'greasy' feel to it either.

Edit: corrected product application order. Clearly having a long day!

I wrote a small guide on machine polishing, you can find it here:

[Guide] The Getting Started into DA Polishing

I really like my Lake Country pads, but I've heard good things about other brands like Hex Logic. If you can get LC pads, pick up Orange(compounding), white(polishing), black(waxing).

For a compound, I always suggest
Meguiar's M105/Meguiars M205.

Always try the least aggressive method first, so polish before compound, then move to compounding if you were unsuccessful with just polishing.

I like Collinite 845 for wax, but there are plenty different brands out there to try out.

A Porter Cable is a good polisher, and it will definitely save you time while detailing.

>This caused a around 1mm mark on my car. Would you guys think this is a scratch?

You may be able to buff it out if it's minor.

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10307-Scratch-X-2-0/dp/B0002UNON8

>I know some people really recommend using the parking brake on manual cars, but should I be using it on my car? My car is automatic and not manual, but if it is recommended and safer, I may just give it a try.

Yes, use the parking brake. When you park an automatic, there is a small dowel about the size of your pinky that snaps out of one part of the transmission into another. That is all that holds your car in place when you shut it off.

>Any other tips would be great, I am just completely excited to be driving, it is quite fun!

Check fluids and tire pressures weekly. Oil, coolant, brake fluid.

Always address any new sights, sounds, or smells immediately before they can snowball into big bills.

Look wwwaaaaaayyyy down the road whenever possible. You can often avoid troubles if you see them in advance. The same goes for using your mirrors.

Enjoy!

You can't clear up a solid 2-4 hours to clean your car?

Honestly, some good car soap/shampoo, a bucket/grit gaurd, some good wax, and few cans of engine degreaser should be all you need to look pretty good.

I'd recommend this, this, and these to get started.

After you get the engine clean, and the outside cleaned and waxed, just vacuum out the inside and clean up any dust, grit, or dirt you might see. This should all take about 4 hours if you take your time.

I've been using Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Wax for the longest time. Can be found on Amazon, or at Target/Walmart. Basically, anywhere that sells car accessories/parts.

Do note that spray waxes are best applied often. They do not last anywhere near as long as traditional waxes/sealants do. The main advantage is that spray waxes are quick and easy to apply and can be done in minutes, rather than an hour (or more).

Alternatively, consider waterless wax + wax solutions. Can help you keep your car clean in between your regular washes. Especially helps to keep your front bumper and hood clean from debris you accumulate daily.

Here's all the stuff I use :)

• Cobra Guzzler HD Waffle Weave Drying Towel 16 x 24 inches http://www.autogeek.net/cobra-guzzler-hd-towel.html (this is a must-have)
  
• Pinnacle Signature Series II Carnauba Wax http://www.autogeek.net/pisisepawax.html (by far my favorite wax for my CW GTI)
  
• Chemical Guys Silk Shine http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-TVD10916-Sprayable-Dressing/dp/B001TI1F5Q (works great as a tire dressing and to shine up the plastics)
  
• Stoner Invisible Glass Cleaner http://www.amazon.com/Stoner-92196-6PK-Invisible-Glass-Cleaner/dp/B00BUL1KRK
  
• Nu Finish Liquid Car Polish http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BPSW7C/ (this is an amazing polish...)
  
• Viking Blue Microfiber Wax Applicator http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051MYL8E/ (cheap and they work well, even after throwing them in the wash after several times)
  
• Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Wax http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O7PNS2/ (I use this for the quick wax jobs, like inside the trunk hood/trunk/door.)
  
• Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Detailer http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RXNLK6/ (I use it for basically everything outside the car to touch up. I even clean the inside of the rims and exhaust tips with it)
  
• Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer Cleaner http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G13616-Interior-Detailer-Cleaner/ (better than Armor All IMHO and it works well. Doesn't leave any nasty grease/shiny spots)
  
• Griot's Garage Micro Fiber Wheel Wand http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004YMRIC8/ (love these)
  
• Sonax Wheel Cleaner http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UT3S6Q/ (the chemical smell is harsh, but it works wonders!)
  
• Eurow Microfiber Towels 16in x 16in 36-Pack http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0031B4YU2/ (some cheap microfibers and they hold up pretty well. I like the fact that they're yellow so you know when you should throw one out.)
  

Had a double rainbow as well! Loved it!

seconding the seam sealing at home. Also, don't pay for the seam sealant from dealers. Go to an auto parts store or amazon and get flowable silicone. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BKEBO0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's the same stuff but waaay cheaper. Also seconding waterproof testing before the trail. I took a garden hose and drenched it, don't just splash water on it and hope for the best. Its a lot easier to reseal it at home than get soaked on the trail.

Wow. I should get into paint correction. <$250 for all the tools and polish and waxes. As a car guy, I don't mind waxing my car every 6 months (or 4 months if you're in the frigid north or are anal). I also feel it's foolish to drop $2k-4k on these nano-quartz-bullshit schemes that a lot of car guys swear by nowadays. If you want to drop $4k on paint protection, go for it, but I can get a full window-out repaint for the same price!

Here's what I learned:

Buy the equipment:

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46

https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Action-Hook-Flexible-Backing-Plate/dp/B0008G1RDK

https://www.costco.com/Kirkland-Signature-Microfiber-Towel-Case%2C-324-count.product.100341124.html

https://www.amazon.com/Collinite-Liquid-Insulator-Wax-845/dp/B000JK2D06

http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country-beveled-pad-kit.html (MIN: 2 orange, 2 white, 1 black, 1 blue -- I prefer doubling this order; Autogeek almost always has 10-25% off coupons on their mailing list)

You will also need an extension wire with the appropriate gauge (too thin/cheap cables might cause you to burn your Porter Cable motor!)


Buy the compounds (start with UC; if swirls aren't getting cut, move up to 50%/50% UC and 105 on the pads; finish with 205 regardless):

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM (medium aggressive)

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B003LMGDHI (most aggressive)

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B001O7PNXC

Wash your car with this, and the two-bucket method:

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7164-Class-Shampoo-Conditioner/dp/B0009IQXFO

https://www.amazon.com/Zwipes-Chenille-Microfiber-Premium-Scratch-Free/dp/B002J7KCOG

Claybar the car:

https://www.amazon.com/YGDZ-Quality-Detailing-Claybar-Shipping/dp/B01MF4BVVS

It took me about 5-6 relaxed hours on a Sunday with a few beers for the full correction. Now I simply top up the wax every few months (and that only takes 30 min).

The thing is, once you do the full correction and get rid of all your swirls and scuffs and whatever clearcoat damage (wash + claybar + M105/UC + M205 + wax), then you don't have to do the FULL correction ever again.

Ever again meaning, if you wash the car properly thereafter with the two-bucket method. You'll simply need to top up the wax once it stops beading -- the wax will protect the clearcoat from damage and swirls.

My wax lasted 6+ months being daily driven in the California sun with three coats of Collinite 845 -- I assume if yours will see more snow and ice and rain, perhaps it'll only last 3-4 months. But since a bottle costs <$20 and you'll get at least 36+ layers out of it, I always recommend this versus the "nano coatings" that people are shelling out $2-4k for.

Here's the Collinite fanboy thread:

https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/40243-collinite-845-definitive-how-guide-legendary-wax.html

Any other questions, feel free to ask. Good luck!

http://www.amazon.com/Flitz-BU-03515-Plastic-Fiberglass/dp/B001447VB2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415075546&sr=8-1&keywords=flitz


This stuff works wonders. I use it to take off surface rust on my swords and knives. It smells terrible, but it's non-toxic, food safe, and most importantly, non-abrasive. It uses some sort of proprietary chemical effect to react and lift off iron oxide(rust) without damaging any actual steel. It's pretty awesome stuff, and one bottle will last you years.

I don't have a stake in this game. I do think it's interesting that the company directly refutes your assertion:

WD-40 and Bikes

Myth: WD-40 Multi-Use Product should not be used on bike chains.

Fact: While WD-40 Multi-Use Product it is not a grease, it is
formulated with strong lubricating oils and other ingredients,
and is a terrific product to use for bike maintenance. It does
not attract dirt or moisture to metal surfaces – just be sure to
wipe off any excess WD-40 Multi-Use Product before riding.

For long-term lubrication and other specialized bicycle
maintenance needs, check out WD-40® BIKE. Developed specifically
for cyclists and mechanics, this high-performance line of bicycle care
products is sure to become a mainstay in the toolboxes of bike
mechanics for decades.

I also think it's weird that after saying it's fine to use on bike chains, assuming you wipe off excess, they've got something that's specifically designed for bikes - which either was marketed because it's actually better for bicycling purposes, or was released due to bike shops instructing people not to use it for this purpose.

Personally, I prefer wax-based chain products on my (motor)bike. If wax-based isn't handy, multi-use teflon'll do.

There are guys that use WD-40 on their motorcycle chains exclusively, and swear by it.

I was also a beginner at the beginning of the year. I went out and bought [Meguiars 105] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B003LMGDHI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496750162&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+105), and [Meguiars 205] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B003LMJP4Q/ref=pd_sim_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003LMJP4Q&pd_rd_r=YK6JBJ416NKY6325PPQG&pd_rd_w=WZ6u4&pd_rd_wg=LD9ed&psc=1&refRID=YK6JBJ416NKY6325PPQG), a [chicago electric DA from harbor freight] (https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-57-Amp-Heavy-Duty-Dual-Action-Variable-Speed-Polisher-62862.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiODkwMjE0MTgiLCJza3UiOiI2Mjg2MiIsImlzIjoiNDkuOTkiLCJwcm9kdWN0X2lk%0D%0AIjoiMTE0NDYifQ%3D%3D%0D%0A), and ordered [orange and white hex logic pads from amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-BUFX-102-HEX5-Hex-Logic-Medium-Heavy/dp/B0040MI9H0/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496750285&sr=1-1&keywords=hex+logic+pads). This will be a good start. Get these things, should cost between 120 and 150 for all of it depending on where you buy, and that DA goes on sale quite often, looks like it's currently down to 49.99, so now would be the time to buy. I started off doing my Formula and then did my Sierra, and now have had a few other people come to me for correction and have a pretty good grasp on what I'm doing.

1. Watch tutorials by Junkman2000 on youtube.
   
2. Use the right size pads for your backing plate. The DA listed above comes with a 6" flimsy backing plate, and you should replace it with a 5" so it is smaller and easier to work with. Mark your backing plate as well, so if you push too hard, you'll see it stop spinning. Good for figuring out how much force you SHOULD be using.
   
3. Take your time, and work at it slowly, you will have results.

Newbie here

Someone please recommend an inexpensive and easy to apply sealer. Preferable one available on amazon.

Also - are there any instructional videos on using Nanoskin sponge?

EDIT:
My thoughts were to wash with 2 bucket method, clean up the paint using the nanoskin sponge and then seal it in to give it protection for the coming summer months.

Would any of these work as a sealer? Which one is the best in giving me long term protection? Easiest to apply?
Also - can I use these towels ? Or are they a bad idea?

Meguiar's M21 Mirror Glaze Synthetic Sealant 2.0

Meguiar's M20 Mirror Glaze Polymer Sealant

Meguiars G18216 Ultimate Liquid Wax

Looks like a pretty good scratch, mostly paint transfer but it may have scratched through the base coat. You can minimize it by polishing it out. Use a rubbing compound and rent or buy a machine. You can also do it by hand but a machine is better for paint correction. Or alternatively you can have some detailer come out and do it for you.

A good retail polishing compound is meguiars compound or 3m. They all come in different grades of abrasiveness.

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G18116-Clear-Polishing-Compound/dp/B006FUT154
Look at the first review, it shows you a similar situation.

This is the link to the one I got costs a lot less. Simichrome 390050 All Metal Polish Tube - 1.76 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YUQ4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_W.vKAbHYWEWSK

And here's the exact lens cleaner spray. Set of 2 Carl Zeiss Lens Cleaning Spray 2oz - 60ml Travel Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JFD6KAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8bwKAbYQA3VMW

A couple things that I've read here that I want to clear up. The fresnal ridges are not on the side of the lens that you look through, they are on the other side so you're not sanding that down you're sanding down a side that is supposed to be smooth. If the scratches on your lens are not visible in the hmd then obviously you don't *need to do anything, unless you're like me and just can't stand scratches.

Proceed with caution but a pro tip - it doesn't matter. You'll be happier after the scratches are gone. Also get yourself a small thumb sized led flashlight. You can hold it in near the lenses to better see the scratches. Enjoy the clarity...

WOW. That's a savings of $30. Thank-you.

This will complement the Meguiar's quick detailer I already have.

I've bought stuff off eBay before, but never Amazon. Am I buying from Amazon (store) or an individual?

EDIT: OMG. I've made a huge mistake Watch from 1:50 -2:00.

I've actually waxed my car atleast 3-4 times before the end of last year. Got my car painted (Pearl White) in summer of 2011.

EDIT 2: What is the difference: 7, 20 and 21

EDIT 3: Please note I have a Pearl White car.

EDIT 4: Haha sorry bud. I just realized how frustrating it must be trying to explain it someone inexperienced like me. I thank you for your patience.

yep i use a rotary buffer to buff, then [NuFinish] (http://www.amazon.com/Nu-Finish-Liquid-Car-Polish/dp/B000BPSW7C/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1408709206&sr=1-1&keywords=nu+finish) to polish. I'm sure any good polish will work, but that's what i use. and i messed up my comment above. You buff, THEN polish.

Also, if you don't have a spray gun, you can use a 2k bomb clear can not be found in stores. it's does better than a normal spray can of clear coat. a normal spray can probably wouldn't look too bad, but the 2k stuff will do better. the 2k can has a hardener that makes the lens much more UV resistant to fading. Since you seem like you are going to try this: let the clear coats sit and dry a day, then run that over with a 2k sandpaper before you buff then polish it.

For black use this product and just follow the instructions. Solution Finish Black Plastic & Vinyl Plastic Trim Restorer. Determine which size to order based on the amount you need to restore.

For white use this: Salon Care 40 Volume. Brush it on and then leave it in the sun for 8 hours, if possible. Direct sunlight, not through a window. You need the UV rays from the sun to react with the cleaner for the desired effect. If you have a UV light hanging around you could use that too but most people don’t so the sun will be your most common UV source. You can repeat the process if necessary but if the day you clean is sunny enough you shouldn’t need to.

Both bottles should last you a while. Obviously start with clean electronics so the restoring process isn’t fighting through dirt or grime but it sounds like you’ve already done that. Good luck!

Unless you can bang out that from the back there's no hope to straighten it with home tools. It can be done from the outside with a stud welder + puller (video) but this is something best left to pros. It's much easier to replace the door for ~$200-500 at a junk yard, search car-part.com -- thats what my insurance did for a similar issue, came out to almost a thousand bucks at the body shop when you add the paint and labor on. But if you do it yourself you might be able to just get one in the right color and not paint it.

If you just want to fix the paint, just do the touch up. Call your dealer to get a small jar in the right color. You can fix the other less deep scratches with polish (heavy cut, light cut).

Also check this channel out if you are interested in how professionals do it: https://www.youtube.com/user/tussik01/videos

I'm looking into buying a power washer for general use around the house, and for washing my car.

I think my sweet spot is going to be one of these SunJoe's, but I've read they like to use proprietary connectors. I was hoping on using a foam cannon like this MATCC, but it sounds like it won't be that simple.

Have you had any issues with the one you got? Any recommendations on accessories?

I'm fairly new, myself. I've driven clunkers most of my life. Spent about five years downtown where I didn't have a car. Now I'm back in suburbia, so I've got a brand new GTI, and it's the first one I've ever cared to take good care of. Here's what I started with:

• Meguiar's D101 APC - the D103 APC+ has apparently been discontinued.
  
• Two Chemical Guys detailing bucket kits, which each have a bucket, lid, grit guard, 16oz citrus wash, and some washing pad thing I didn't really want.
  
• Two-pack of Rag Company Dry Me a River towels
  
• Five-pack of Rag Company detailing towels
  
• Bottle of Stoner Invisible Glass
  
• Two-pack of Griot's Garage microfiber wash mitts
  
• A Nanoskin wash mitt
  
• 32oz Optimum No Rinse Wash and Wax - for use as a quick detailer and easy maintenance washing.
  
• Lexol leather care kit
  
• Thee-pack of spray bottles
  
• A microfiber window towel
  
• A cheap electric blower
  
• 16oz Chemical Guys Jetseal
  
• Microfiber applicators
  
  I should have picked up some of Chemical Guys' citrus wash and clear, too, to help deal with a winter's worth of grime left by terrible touchless car washes. I've also got a tire brush, hand vacuum, and some assorted cheap microfiber towels around already.
  
  Your kit looks a lot more cost-effective, though. Throw in some cheap buckets, grit guards, wash mitts, and drying towel, and an extra stack of cheap microfibers and you're still under $100 for practically everything you would need for a proper two-bucket wash and wax.

Biggest difference between the SPX3000 and SPX4000 is the form factor. The SPX4000 has a sort of frame around it, making it more stable than the SPX3000. Other minor differences include two detergent tanks (on the SPX3000) versus one and the SPX4000 has two different pressure settings (1450 PSI and 2030 PSI). I personally don't really need the detergent tank and rarely use the lower pressure setting, but I suppose it is nice to have when needed. Other than those three minor differences, the units are identical (motor, fittings, etc all the same). I'd personally recommend the SPX4000 just for the more stable base.

I use this foam cannon with my SPX4000 and have no complaints. This foam cannon also gets great reviews and is slightly cheaper.

I'd also highly recommend getting the hose extension. You don't need any extra fittings to connect it and it gives you 25 more feet to work with.

It's pretty much the same stuff as Ultimate Quick Wax, just in bulk packaging.

I'm a fan. I don't really think it's the best but it's very good and inexpensive. Optimum spray wax is very good as well, but it's pricier.

I like Flitz polish. It works great for so much.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001447VB2/

Also https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000H6MNRU and/or https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TV6DLU

Combine with a drill and you should be able to get that sparkling.

However, another potential option would be the tried and true when something needs some tough love: http://brillo.com/products-2014.asp

It looks more like sweat than scratches from the pic. Have you tried a small dab on water on the microfibre cloth?

I had the same on mine after a mate who sweats like Niagara Falls used mine. I noticed similar "marks" on the lenses the next day. A dab of water got them off.

I've heard of people using this for scratches with success but I personally have never needed it.

https://www.amazon.com/NOVUS-7136-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UD0GIG/

Finally I use these to protect the lenses. They don't impact the image in any noticeable manner if applied correctly. The Rift lenses are curved so these are the only ones I have seen that actually fit. The 48mm are the ones to get that fit

https://www.amazon.com/Healingshield-Watch-Protector-Guard-1-65in/dp/B00SJ22CY8

I just bought a ryobi 2000psi 1.2 gpm machine and a $20 MATTC foam gun and it worked extremely well, just like the chemical guys videos, tons of fun. The pressure washer also cleaned my deck and driveway surprisingly well. I'm super pleased with it. If you're ordering online the sun joe spx3000 is more powerful for the same price, at 2030 psi and 1.75 gpm, but being able to go a mile from my house to return my unit if anything came up was a big point to me too.

Foam Gun

I used chemical guys citrus wash and gloss (it's worth it to get a gallon) with three pumps (3oz) and the foam cannon turned full open to max foam. It made a really thick shaving cream like lather.

An air compressor works great for cleaning the dust out. Check out the little electric blowers if you don't have a full-on compressor. I've been using one for over 5 years now and it works great.

For cleaning the exterior, Novus makes great plastic cleaning products.

There pricing is very good, especially on gear with the return policy you receive. Part pricing is still good, especially if you make the free shipping on the smaller moto-specific items like chain lube, etc. Beats Amazon's price by several $$.

Maxima Chain Wax

Amazon - $14

RevZilla - $11.50

Not to mention I have to pay tax on items sold by Amazon which really sours the deal.

Every product you bought you returned? Every product was $50-$100 less when you bought it somewhere else? Why did you keep buying from RevZilla and keep returning their items? Why didn't you do research before you bought it?

Am I on the right track? I am currently looking for all the products I need to completely detail my car. I know there is no way I could purchase all of these at once, so I am planning on purchasing the major ones first and adding the others over time. I have spent almost two weeks researching on everything I need to do. There is so much information and so many opinions that it is hard to find a definitive answer on what I need.

> Wheel

Wheel soap:

• Meguiar's Non-Acid Wheel & Tire Cleaner D143
  
  Wheel cleaner:
  
  
• Sonax Wheel Cleaner Plus
  
  Tire dressing:
  
  
• Optimum Opti-Bond Tire Gel
  
  Wheel wax:
  
  
• Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax #845
  
  > Paint
  
  Paint soap:
  
  
• Meguiar's Gold Class Car Wash Shampoo & Conditioner
  
  Paint soap addition:
  
  
• Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine
  
  Leaf blower:
  
  
• Worx Turbine WG520
  
  Clay bar:
  
  
• YGDZ Auto Detailing Magic Claybar
  
  Dual action polisher:
  
  
• Heavy Duty Dual Action Variable Speed Polisher from Harbor Freight
  
  Backing plate:
  
  
• Astro 5" PU Velcro Backing Pad
  
  Pad:
  
  
• Lake Country 5.5" CCS Orange Polishing Pad
  
  
• Lake Country 5.5" CCS White Smart Pad
  
  
• Lake Country 5.5" CCS Black Finessing Pad
  
  Compound:
  
  
• Meguiar's M105 Mirror Glaze Ultra-Cut Compound
  
  Polish:
  
  
• Meguiar's M205 Mirror Glaze Ultra Finishing Polish
  
  Sealant/wax:
  
  
• Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax #845
  
  > Interior
  
  Carpet cleaner:
  
  
• Adam's Carpet & Upholstery Cleaner
  
  Dashboard cleaner:
  
  
• Nextzett Cockpit Premium or Meguiar's Ultimate Interior Detailer
  
  Leather cleaner:
  
  
• Nextzett Cockpit Premium or Meguiar's Ultimate Interior Detailer
  
  Leather conditioner:
  
  
• Lexol Leather Deep Conditioner
  
  Glass cleaner:
  
  
• Rain-X Glass Cleaner
  
  There are a bunch of other tools not listed here, but the ones listed above are the areas I am most concerned about.
  
  > Other Concerns
  
  I am still anxious about spraying water in my engine bay, so I decided to use a spray bottle with soap and water and a microfiber towel to wipe down the engine bay while it is still decently clean. Can I use diluted Meguiar's D143 or will I have to purchase Meguiar's D101 instead? Can the Optimum Tire Gel be used on the black plastics of the engine bay, as well as the other black trims of my car?
  
  I want to protect my interior, in addition to cleaning it. I am very confused on what product I need to use to protect my dashboard from the sun. The same goes for the leather seats, where the creases are forming. I have been using a conditioner (although I am unsure of the exact name) to slow down the crease formation. Should I use the same product for both the dashboard and leather seats (with Lexol Conditioner on top of that)? I have heard of Leatherique Leather Rejuvenator/Prestine Clean, but I am unsure of when I should use that.

I use Blackfire spray wax, only because I got it in their full paint correction kit, but I bet Meguiars will have one. Its pretty unanimous that Meguiars has good products for the home detailer. Link: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17516-Ultimate-Quik-Wax/dp/B001O7PNS2

Hmm yea those soaps dont seem to be wax stripping.

You can do the ceramic coating yourself for $100 if you have the time, its fairly easy to do just have to follow the instructions. I myself am about to do a coating in preparation for the Northern winter.
A lot of people use C2V3 or CQuartz as their go to.

A few simple ones: No eating in the car. No Drinking in the car. No smoking in the car. Empty all clutter from the car when you leave, everytime.

As far as waxing goes, it depends on the wax you use and where you live. The closer to the equator you live the more you should wax. If you live near salt water you should wash more frequently. I have have good luck with a product called Nu Finish. I apply it about every 4 months, but I live in South Florida. Also, get an orbital buffer. They are cheap and save a LOT of elbow grease when buffing.

Armor-all or another plastic protectant is a must on the interior. Rain-X is nice too but not needed for actual care.

Thanks. Sounds like it's not going to damage the car, so it's definitely worth trying. FYI, both ONR and Aero do, in fact, claim to be wax. So it's good to know that they, in fact, are not.

Good brushes. Try both of these. First one to get inside, 2nd to get the surface.

EZ Detail Brush Big https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LOP5IA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vYM1Bb887H6Z3

EZ Detail Go EZ Detail Brush https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VK9HWWY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JZM1BbKPE8ZJT

i used this on recommendation from some people over at tdpri. i absolutely love the way it feels, and i put it on all of my satin-necked guitars. it's actually nicer than regular poly, IMO. here are some pics i took just now. (not the greatest, apologies.)

I took delivery of my 3 in February of this year (also multi-coat red) and did something very similar to what you are doing. I did have full front PPF (XPEL) installed the day after I took delivery, and then I drove the car for 3 months until temps warmed up. I did the following DYI:

• Two bucket wash
  
• Chemical decon using Optimum Ferrex (https://www.theragcompany.com/optimum-ferrex/)
  
• Clay bar entire car (used ONR for clay lube) (https://www.theragcompany.com/optimum-no-rinse-wash-and-shine-onr/)
  
• Single-stage polish using M205 on all panels not covered by XPEL PPF (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B001O7PNXC)
  
• Full IPA wipe down, used Optimum Paint Prep (https://www.theragcompany.com/optimum-paint-prep/)
  
• Applied Optimum Gloss Coat over the whole car (https://www.theragcompany.com/optimum-gloss-coat/). Let the car sit in my garage for 24 hours after application
  
  A friend of mine bought a White Model 3 and I did these same steps for him in July (he bought all the materials and the beer :) Both cars are looking great.

Flitz Metal Polish for the bore; Break Free CLP for the inside of the gun; and FrogLube paste as an exterior protectant.

On my Glocks I usually use one of THESE. (I throw the slotted tip and the jag away, and use only the brush with cotton patches (occasionally) wrapped around it.)

NOTHING CLEANS A PISTOL BARREL, ABOVE 22 CALIBER, FASTER OR BETTER - NOTHING!

I, also, keep a carbon steel, 'Squirrel Daddy' Miniature Glock Tool in the handle along with a thin-bladed, narrow profile screwdriver.

I carry; so I clean my Glock BEFORE I leave the range and won't holster a dirty pistol that hasn't also been function checked. I've been working on guns for 50 + years; and I use them hard. At one time, or another I've seen it all. These guys who like to brag and post crap about (almost) never cleaning their Glocks are just plain IGF idiots; and I'm sure that Smyrna would tell them so, too.

Neither is there any good or necessary reason, whatsoever, to leave the Loctite C5-A Anti-Seize Compound (the, 'gold-colored grease') inside your Glock after you've purchased it and brought it home. The C5-A is there to: (1) Protect a Glock from corrosion between the dissimilar metals of the slide and connector tab during PROLONGED distributor storage, and (2) guarantee that a new, possibly uncleaned, and unlubricated Glock pistol will go, 'Bang!' the first time it is used.

Once the Glock pistol is put into service and receives regular maintenance you no longer need the grease - Period.

> I also learned how to lacquer the pens, I use a spray lacquer and what I like to call my spray box, I use this so the spay doesn’t go everywhere. Before I did this I sanded them starting with 120 grit paper and going up to 1000 grit using the sand paper, after that I used some sponge backed pads which started at 1500 grit and went up to 12000 grit. I am never sure how long I should be sanding them though.

See if you can get the Novus plastic polish https://www.amazon.com/Novus-7136-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UD0GIG is the US amazon link. With what you describe on sanding process, you can then move to the Novus and have very good looking pens without a lacquer layer. I also think you get better overall results.

For your question. Sand each grit until you can't see scratches from the previous grit. If you move on and see a bigger scratch than the previous, back up a level and go until it is removed. Off of the lathe you would switch directions each time, on the lathe you just have to keep an eye on it. Once you get things on a solid base, progressive grits go quickly.

> To get rid of tool marks in the blank go over the piece multiple times not adjusting the positioning of the tool, the nature of the lathe is that it spins and when you move the tool you will get trenches in the material, when you go over it multiple times you end up lathing away the ridges.

If you are getting ridges, either your tool isn't set up properly, or your feed speed is wrong. You should see tool marks, but not ridges. If you have a pic of the blank in the lathe as you work it, that would be helpful.

> And lastly, I need to find something I can put up the pen barrel so that I can sand or lathe down the whole length, so far my search has been fruitless.

Make it. If you have a standard internal thread, make what you need to thread the pen blank on to work on it.

That's a lot of info to your questions. But finally I want to say good job. You really are getting the hang of this, and it is showing.

This is what I've been using for a few years. I've used it safely on vintage and modern pens, of course never using it on things like hard rubber pens. Only need to use a very small amount of product, and you can probably get by with the least aggressive polish (#2) for these scratches. Bonus points for trying it out on an old beat-up pen or other plastic object before using on your good pen.

I love Larry's videos from AMMO NYC & DRIVE Clean and have always followed his recommendations for detailing/washing.

• 2 Home Depot buckets with grit guards, microfiber cloths & wash mitt, waffle drying cloth
  
• soap -> [Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine](https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=pd_sim_263_2? (you can u_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00D8DR0AO&pd_rd_r=FM515CNNWHKECR3HGYQ8&pd_rd_w=L1qpT&pd_rd_wg=YSRMs&psc=1&refRID=FM515CNNWHKECR3HGYQ8) (I dilute this and use it as the "clay" lubricant as well)
  
• "clay" -> Nanoskin Autoscrub (works well enough, more cost effective than real clay)
  
• seal -> Chemical Guys Jet Seal
  
• wax -> Meguiar's
  
  
  

Gotcha, had a feeling I had to get a better attachment. Would this this suffice as a more budget friendly attachment?

Just did a hand-wash with microfiber towels, wiped the car dry, and then used a product called Nu Finish for the wax. It's like 10 dollars a bottle and is super easy to use - I poured the liquid on the damp towel I washed the car with to apply the wax, then let the wax dry to a haze, and then buffed out with a dry microfiber towel. Wash/wax took about an hour to do myself, which is worth it considering how long a the Nu-Finish stays on.

EDIT: Amazon link

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BPSW7C/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1465775620&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=Nu+Finish&dpPl=1&dpID=41TQElpWDtL&ref=plSrch

I bought my flowable silicone from amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BKEBO0/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Make sure you don't get the "RTV" version. It doesn't work.

Get the one that has "Windshield and Glass Sealer" on its label.

I used it to mod my Yomega Dash to unresponsive and it works really well. I also used it to replace the worn-out response pad on my YYJ Trigger. I would say followable silicone is better than the stock response on my Trigger.

So definitely try to use followable silicone in your yoyos. You won't be disappointed.

I use Various Combinations of the following for my Dirt and Street bikes.

• Pressure Washer
  
• Simple Green Bike Cleaner/Degreaser
  
• Mr. Pink Super Suds
  
• Aluminum Grunge Brush
  
• Short Handle Body Brush
  
• Large Wheel Brush
  
• Upholstery Detailing Brush (works great on Sidewalls)
  
• Maxima Chain Care kit

Go to Amazon and order this (I like Meg's products),

• Harbor Freight DA
  
  
• Meg's Endurance Tire Gel
  
  
• Meg's Ultimate Protectant
  
  
• Meg's Ultimate Liquid Wax
  
  
• Meg's APC
  
  
• Rag Company's Borderless Blonde
  
  
• Rag Company's Waffle Weave
  
  
• Hex Logic White Pad (3)
  
  
• Hex Logic Orange Pad (2)
  
  
• Hex Logic Red Pad (2)
  
  
• M105
  
  
• M205
  
  
• 3M Auto Tape
  
  
• Mother's Wheel Brush
  
  
• ABN Woolies
  
  
• Trim Brush
  
  
• Chem Guys Wash Mitt (2)
  
  
• Mother's Clay Bar Kit
  
  This should run you about $345 for everything and have you setup to take care of your car for a long time. You can find a 20% discount code online for harbor freight to bring the price down $55 for the DA. Go to home depot and buy a couple buckets and you will be good to go.
  
  Edit: To add, I went to Lowes and bought a cheap inline sprayer for my hose and it works fine for foaming up the vehicle, plus it only costs $5.
  
  Edit2: If you are going to downvote me please post why you don't like my recommendation.

My local shop quoted me $300 to fix the paint and $250 to replace the plastic piece. I told them it was a lease and surprisingly they told me I should wait until I am about to turn the car in since more damage will happen. I also have $5K of lease damage insurance so even if I get dinged (ha!) for this, it will be covered by that insurance.

Being a perfectionist, I still wanted to clean things up so I turned to Amazon and bought about $40 worth of supplies:

• ACDelco WA636R Touchup Paint
  
• 1.5mm Touchup Brushes
  
• Novus 2oz Plastic Polish Kit
  
• Novus Polish Mate
  
• Meguiars ScratchX 2.0
  
  I was able to fix the damage to the plastic piece entirely, it looks as good as new. I used an ample amount of Novus 2 and 3. I wasn't expecting Novus to be able to tackle such a big scratch and I was just hoping to get rid of some minor scuffs but I was pleasantly surprised, there is a slight dip in the plastic that is visible if you are about 3 inches away and looking from an extreme angle but I don't even feel a bump anymore.
  
  I also did a few more rounds of Scratch X on the paint scratch and got rid of about 50% of it, I painted the deep chip but I didn't want to risk making it worse so it's still visible from about a foot away. I'm going to practice on another car with some filler and see if I can master the art of filling in deep chips and painting them but for now the metal under the chip is safe from rust.

I've used Meguiar's Quik Wax on my car and even after washing it a couple times, water still beads up a bit. The bit of shine benefit is gone, and the beading isn't as strong as fresh (still WAY better than none). But it's clearly beading after a few months.

If the products are related, it's probably worth trying out.

No you don't have to but it just removes anything extra that's in the paint. Claying removes all of the bonded contaminants on top of the paint which means it shaves it off. Sometimes little bits of iron can still be left over and then you use iron x to fully remove it. The product you linked isn't the coating. That's a sealant.

This is a coating and one I would recommend. It's not as tough to apply as optimum gloss coat is. Very user friendly as long as you can follow directions.

The brembo wheels are painted just like the car and can get scratched just like car paint. I use this on mine. Works great.

http://www.amazon.com/EZ-Detail-1001-SA-Brush/dp/B002LOP5IA/ref=pd_sbs_auto_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=1NHC4K3WRGD9TC2S3XF8

Also, don't be afraid of the cutting stuff. The mirror glaze and light cut products are not going to damage your paint. your clear coat is much thicker and more durable than people think when it comes to these buffers.

If you wanna keep it under $30 and want a very basic method of keeping your car clean then I would recommend the tried and true 2-Bucket Wash method.

1. 2 x 5-gallon buckets (Lowes or Home Depot) - $2/bucket
   
2. 2 x GritGuards - $17
   
3. 2 x MicroFiber Wash Mitts - $15
   
4. Meguiar's Golf Class Car Wash Shampoo - $10
   
   TOTAL: $45ish
   
   I know that $45 is over your budget of $30, but I highly recommend using the 2-bucket wash method. You can get away with using 1 grit guard and 1 wash mitt if you want to cut a little bit on cost. You could also buy a smaller size of car wash shampoo... this may get you closer to budget.
   
   The reason I buy 2 grit guards is to use 1 in each bucket. You can buy only 1 and use it in the rinse water bucket for when you rinse your mitt.
   
   You can also get away with having 1 wash mitt and look at different brands. I personally use 2 (one for upper half, one for lower half) to reduce contamination.
   
   ---
   
   If you want to expand later on to go beyond cleaning the car... then you can put some money into additional products. You will want to look into wheel brushes, all-purpose cleaner, glass cleaners, detail sprays, waxes, etc.
   
   Once you start, you cannot stop!

Recently picked up the 2017 S3, clay barred with Mother's clay bar and two stage polish with https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P67GT7K followed by some nice CQuartz to seal https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DZJ7VA. I also have a 1/3rd clear bra on there, it's an XPEL bra and not super noticeable.

I think it looks pretty good.
http://i.imgur.com/Z9e3MIz.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/qM1H57p.jpg

Hey, i love the 86/BRZs. I use this product to clean my WRX. You should give it a try it's amazing for the apartment life.


Optimum (NRWW2012Q) No Rinse Wash & Wax - 32 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GG9FB8U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vX0-BbBFR4FB6

Been going back and forth on the coating. I did watch some youtube before started and did the two bucket method. From my research it looks like if you just wax it every 3-4 months it should have near the same protection as ceramic. I do have the stuff to diy cermaic coating saved in my Amazon cart though. Was thinking about giving it a go.

Used this wash and wax from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D8DR0AO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O7PNS2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UD0GIG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You may want to move to the 8oz. I haven't used this yet, but someone from r/vive said yesterday they used it to repair scratches on a delicate lens (more important for functionality than your t top). I just bought this to try on my vive that has a scratched lens. If you'd want to wait a couple days I can update you on my success!

I recommend not starring the car at all. All those little stickers can be pretty hard to get off, and may cause slight damage.

Also, I doubt that your paint is swirl free. If you are asking a no0b question (which is fine), you probably aren't looking correctly. The dealership yo-yo that washed your car probably caused a bit of swirling. Your white car will be exceptionally good at covering it, and that one guy can't do that much damage.

You don't need this porter thing. Check out the DetailedImage link over there ( I would not buy directly from them as they charge way, way too much. Find the products on Amazon or something).--->

You only need the power tools if you're going to polish/compound (which are exclusively for removing paint imperfections). But don't get too excited about not spending money, as you have sealant and wax to get.

The pads you need are applicator pads (not pads used on power tools). They are pads used to apply sealant and wax. Applying sealant, and then wax is what you do to protect your paint. Keep in mind that you'll need enough microfibers to dry your car AND wipe off excess sealant/wax. Also keep in mind washing the microfibers in such a way that won't destroy them (Never use fabric softener.).

Suggestions if you have no idea where to start: great sealant, pr0saws 1337 haxzorz wax, good clay bar, sweet clay lube, Microfiber detergent

All this advice comes at a price, of course: posting your before washing and after pics

I use Meguiar’s Sealant and Chemical Guy’s butter wax (which is amazing). Make sure you let the sealant cure on the car before wiping it off. It adds some protection for rock chips but it’s impossible to stop them all especially highway speeds. It does make rinsing the shit off the car easier.

The ABN Wheel Woolies are pretty great. If you really only want one brush then I'd look at the EZ Detail Brush

You could try something like Novus Plastic Polish (change the .com to .de , .co.uk , or whichever you prefer using in Sweden). Honestly not sure if it will remove those fine scratches though or if even using it with a microfiber cloth would make it worse. May be worth a shot though if you don't want to pay to have a replacement shipped.

If it doesn't work/gets worse, I'd recommend mnpctech's replacement window. High quality acrylic that won't scratch nearly as easily. They do international orders via email and paypal so I'm not sure how much it would end up being for you...

A little Simichrome polish and some elbow grease will take care of that. I know it says metal polish, but polish is polish. It works great. Follow up with a coat of Renaissance Wax and Bob's your uncle.

I'll look at the product tomorrow morning and post a link to it or something. I have used it several times on my car and it's done an amazing job of just clearing small scratches away. As long as it's not a deep scratch it usually covers it up really well. I do know what I'm talking about, like I've said I've used it a few times and have had good results.

Edit: decided to just go ahead and Google it real quick. Here's a link to the product. Look at the comments, in some people post pictures. Don't have to get all rude before you even attempt to look for anything.

I clean my own jewelry with this polish and double layer cloths.

I got an heirloom platinum ring resized at Symmetry three years ago. They were honest with me about time frame and gave me a discount in the end. I would recommend them to anyone based on my experience, though I know others may not have had the same.

Get an eraser wheel off of amazon, I did it and it was super easy to remove the pinstriping.

http://www.amazon.com/AES-Industries-Smart-Eraser-Adaptor/dp/B00488DDB8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419617431&sr=8-1&keywords=eraser+wheel

I definitely don't use machine or semiDIY washes like this. I wash with this soap and do a hand wash every week or so.

Edit: Typos.

Pressure wash with This pressure washer
Foam cannon from Amazon [Foam cannon](http://www.MATCC.com/ Adjustable Foam Wash Gun 1L Bottle Car Wash Gun Snow Foam Lance With 1/4" Quick Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CE78VO8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VrJmzb8PWHAQH)
Then I used regular 2 bucket car wash with grit guard from Amazon, speed shine (2 towels), spray wax, vacuum, interior cleaner, leather conditioner, plastic conditioner, and spray window cleaner.

All the products I use are griots garage... Really good quality stuff.

[Speed shine](http://www.Griot.com/'s Garage 11146SP Speed Shine - 35 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5CVMLU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KuJmzbF11YMYS)
[Interior cleaning ](http://www.Griot.com/'s Garage 10956 Interior Cleaner - 22 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F4PB8IY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lvJmzbYGA8QRT)
[Spray wax](http://www.Griot.com/'s Garage 10962 Spray-On Wax - 22 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F4PB8H0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WvJmzb2DC8ZAZ)
[Wash soap](http://www.Griot.com/'s Garage 10866 Brilliant Finish Car Wash - 64 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PA2LMVY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IwJmzbPEEQTMQ)

Just keep going down the griot's line up... High quality all around. Cheers

In the automotive world, scratch removers can get rid of scratches such as these very well. My favorite is the Meguiar brand, and I have a feeling it might work for these cases as well

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10307-Scratch-X-2-0/dp/B0002UNON8/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

Alright will do. I always thought it would be good to soak in the foam while I fill the buckets.

I use this foam canon and this pressure washer. I fill it 10:1 and use distilled water in the canister. It does have a knobs at the tops that control how the foam comes out and I have it set with the metal parts more spread open to give a thicker stream of liquid.

And if you really want it to shine, the steel wool + [simichrome] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YUQ4E/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_ejWgub1RK0D7Z) . It's a metal polish and works amazing. Plus makes it for easier cleaning on the next application. A little bit goes a long way.

There's several good kits just gotta figure out how much you have to spend. I got a 30mL bottle and it wasn't quite enough to do my entire car. 50mL would be perfect for a WRX in my opninion. I'm not a pro at all so that's just my advice.

https://www.amazon.com/Carpro-Cquartz-30-Ml-Kit/dp/B005DZJ7VA/ref=sr_1_7?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1517563728&sr=1-7&keywords=ceramic+coating

https://www.amazon.com/CarPro-CQuartz-UK-Kit-Reload/dp/B00W8APMQM/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1517563728&sr=1-6&keywords=ceramic+coating

https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-WAC227-Protective-Coating/dp/B01ALMQD3O/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1517563728&sr=1-3-spons&keywords=ceramic+coating&psc=1

It really depends on how deep the scratches are.

Your best bet for minimal scuffs and scratches would be a plastic polishing compound. I use Novus pretty often when I do acrylic fabrication professionally, it is fine enough not to alter the optics if you use it properly.

If the scratches are deep enough to require sanding, I would advise against it since you risk removing too much material and altering the optics irreparably. If the scratches are too deep for polishing compound, you'll have to just live with it.

I used Optimum No Rinse during the winter time, because it allows for small parts of the car at a time, without requiring rinse.

But invest is a Waffle Weave Drying Towel, a couple bucket's from wal-mart (like $2.50 a bucket) and some Grit Guards for each bucket and your in business. You can use any soft wash mitt, and there are a lot of different brands and styles out there, and I also recommend a Detailer or Wax (I prefer quick detailer during winter-times so I can just spray and wipe and it keeps the snow and crap off for a good amount of time.)

I personally like Meguiar's Ultimate Quick Detailer. Just spray it on your clean spot, rub it in all over, then single wipe it off with the dry side of the terry cloth, and you get some bead action next time it rains!

I do this all the time. I use Nu Finish car polish (http://www.amazon.com/Nu-Finish-Liquid-Car-Polish/dp/B000BPSW7C) it has a polymer base that can fill in small scratches and repair scuffs for it actually fills in the space of the crack with transparent plastic. It works great on minor stuff and with a good buff wheel you can get most scratches out.

There is also heavy duty version http://www.amazon.com/Nu-Finish-NFS-05-Scratch-Doctor/dp/B000AME50Y/ref=pd_sim_auto_1 have not tried it on screens though.

If you have access to a drill, an eraser wheel is by far the easiest way. Just make sure the surrounding paint is clean to prevent scratches.
This is the one I have, I used it to remove body molding adhesive:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00488DDB8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yep. Meguiar's quik wax. There's like two different versions and I don't know what makes them different from each other but I guess they're more or less the same.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001O7PNS2/ref=psdc_15718371_t1_B00P9OF00C

Spray, let it sit a moment, wipe it around the areas you regularly wax, done.

I cannot speak for how long this spray wax lasts compared to actual wax, but for me it's been very effective as a complete novice to car detailing and cosmetic maintenance.

I purchased a knock-off on Amazon (MATCC) and have been very happy with it. It's hooked up to a 3000 PSI gas powered pressure washer so I'm sure that helps, but I've gotten good results. The review with the pic of a Yukon on there is mine.

Here is the link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CE78VO8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Flitz metal polish is amazing. I have used it and it works incredibly well. Read the comments at Amazon.

>The key to keeping dust down is adding a dryer sheet while cleaning.

Yep.

I use cheapie new ones (Kroger house brand) & they turn gray pretty quickly. I also wet tumble after depriming (I like clean primer pockets & case interiors) and dry tumble with lizard litter and an occasional capful of NuFinish. After adding the polish run the tumbler 5-10 minutes before adding brass - avoids clumping.

I wet tumble after depriming to avoid running grimy cases thru my sizing dies, do all my case prep (size, trim, chamfer, flash hole uniforming rifle cases) then dry tumble to deal with the brass particles from prep.

Between Armor-All car was for wet tumbling and Nu-finish for dry, the result is shiny cases inside and out that stay bright until I get around to loading them.

Well clearly they didn't keep polishing it even though it was still being used. Because of that, with gradual use, it started to get more and more scuffed.

Someone tweet this at D-Bro and the game should be good until Season 1 starts.

Try scratchX 2.0! I found this in another thread for getting scratches out of old 3DS's. I actually used it on my top screen and I'm incredibly happy with the results. Two major gashes and a lot of microscratches from stupidly using a CD cleaner on it effectively gone.

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10307-ScratchX-2-0-oz/dp/B0002UNON8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425917884&sr=8-1&keywords=scratchx+2.0

Do Not Use Scotchbrite pads or sandpaper as a poster below suggested, you want to be as gentle as you can be. Use Flitz a very gentle polish. use it sparingly!
http://www.amazon.com/Flitz-BU-03515-Plastic-Fiberglass/dp/B001447VB2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416656541&sr=8-1&keywords=flitz+metal+polish+tube

Well I've just started getting together my own kit and felt I HAD to get these:

1. Meguiar's Clay bars and quik detail spray
   
   
2. Butt-load of microfiber towels
   
   
3. Waffle-weave drying towel
   
   
4. Grit-guards
   
   
5. Iron X wheel cleaner
   
   
6. Industrial Spray bottles
   
   
7. Meguiar's Gold Class car wash soap
   
   
8. Meguiar's Gold Class Wax
   
   
9. Purple Power
   
   
10. Proper wash mitt
    
    I still feel like there are atleast ten other products that I NEED!
    
    -Pressure Washer
    
    -Foam Cannon
    
    -Detailing brushes
    
    -Sealants/Compounds combined with a proper rotor drill
    
    -ETC
    
    

This one, right?
https://www.amazon.com/Solution-Finish-Plastic-Restorer-Detailing/dp/B006NZQ3T8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497034099&sr=8-1&keywords=solution+black

How do you apply it? And is it something you need to reapply every few months, or more of a permanent/semi-permanent solution?

Thanks for the advice.

When I get my Impreza in a month and a half, I plan on giving it a coat of wax. Seems like a good idea. I've heard this wax is good...
Nu Finish Liquid Car Polish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BPSW7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cSPAybN24F9GC

Not sure what else, I'm looking for recommendations too.

Pics will help.

I have had a lot of success with this product: http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G-10307-G10307-ScratchX/dp/B0002UNON8

If you live in North America you can find it at any auto store.

PM me for more info.

This brush for wheelwells.

I had wheel woolies before which are great for in between the spokes and some of the wells, but in tight spaces this brush is able to compact and fit in so much better

Go to the autoparts store and buy this stuff called buffing compound. It will be in he section where they sell the car wax. Use it and it will get rid of that film.

Here it is on Amazon:

Meguiar's G18116 Clear Coat Safe Polishing Compound - 16 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006FUT154/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ze3hzbJHNS5B3

Wash and Wax the plane with whatever, people make a big deal and spend way to much money on this stuff. I bought the Wash Wax Airplane Wash - doesn't work any better than dish soap ....

If you want to buff and polish the paint then use a good product like Jet Seal with a random buffer. Even this stuff is expensive for what it is ...

https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-WAC_118_16-Anti-Corrosion-Protectant/dp/B001TFE38A/
https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-WAC_201_16-Butter-Wet/dp/B00FALVU8A/

Then buy a $4 bottle of turtle wax wax and dry - after every flight spray and wipe down all the leading edges and bug laden surfaces.

Once a coat of wax is on there - microfiber cloth and turtle wax will take all the bug and gunk off in a single wipe with minimal pressure ... It will work on oil spray from prop seals too

https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-T-9-1-Step-Dry/dp/B0007TV6M0/


Save the $ for 100LL

Buy this and be mindblown that you ever needed water in the first place, it's fantastic. I also like to dilute some of it and use it as a quik detail/waxer.

http://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NRWW2012Q-Rinse-Wash-Wax/dp/B00GG9FB8U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462805403&sr=8-1&keywords=optimum+no+rinse+wash+%26+wax

And just think, some of the suds dripped off BEFORE I got this shot. Here are the links to the Foam Gun/Cannon and the soap:

Foam Gun/Cannon

Soap - Chemical Guys Honeydew Snow Foam

I also grabbed the mitt that was offered with it from Amazon.

I added some soap to the canister with the water to dilute it. I just poured in what I thought was good. My pressure washer is a gas powered Troy from Lowes rated at 2900 PSI.

Hope this helps you out.

I've been pretty happy with Optimum No Rinse Wash & Wax

Eraser Wheel

Grab one of these from Amazon or locally if you can find one and hook it up to a drill. People (myself included) use these to remove decals and such from vehicles. So if it is safe enough to use on automotive paint you can be assured that it won't hurt your flooring.

You will have it up in no time with one of these.

Use a squirt of Nu Finish in your tumbler for each load you do. It'll help polish the brass better than just the lizard bedding will. Should be readily available at your local Wal-Mart, too.

Thanks for all the info! I ended up buying the MATCC one from Amazon and will prolly pick up the 1.1mm orifice that @Ziomalski suggested. I chose this cannon b/c I know it fits the SPX3001 out the box.

Will be here today. Excited to see the results.

They one on the left is raw aluminum, and the two stacked up are nickel. I did a titanium that just arrived last week with the same polish as well, but it didn't seem to do much for that material, but it totally blasts out nickel and aluminum. :)

I use Semichrome polish

https://www.amazon.com/Simichrome-390050-Metal-Polish-Tube/dp/B0002YUQ4E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525812594&sr=8-1&keywords=simichrome+polish

LOL i had the same issue. Turns out that the back camera has a coating, which makes pictures all blurry. Get some polish and with a qtip clean the camera glass. Sadly i figured this out too late, i though the coating was more of a peel so i tried taking it out, turns out i was pulling the glass.

something like this

It depends on how aggressive you were with this "magic eraser". You say it dulled the surface rather than scratched it, which indicates that the scratches are very fine and very shallow. This should be easily repairable by just polishing it out with a very fine grade polishing compound. M205 is a popular choice. You can find it on Amazon or in most hardware/auto stores. You can (and should) post in /r/autodetailing if you want more responses.

Oh i didn't realize there was a difference between polishing compound and rubbing compound. Would this work?

Meguiar's G18116 Clear Coat Safe Polishing Compound https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006FUT154/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_14OHDbVERDVNV

you try this? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UD0GIG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

works great on Vive lenses

In another thread that I can't seem to find someone recommended this stuff:
https://www.amazon.com/Solution-Finish-Black-Plastic-Restorer/dp/B006NZQ3T8

I had it bookmarked for myself on Amazon. I have never used it, never tried it, and know nothing about it except that someone in another thread recommended it highly for scuffs on the glovebox.

Edit: still can't find the thread. I'm giving up. Reddit's search system is terrible. Anyway, there was one more thing that I remembered from the post and that is the person who recommended it said that it changes the color of the glovebox slightly darker, so you don't just apply it to the scuff, you apply it there and then over the rest of the whole thing. And when it's done it will be a bit darker but it will look like new and still match the rest of the interior. If you try it, let me know how it goes.

I've starting using Novus, which seems to be fairly popular with other coin collectors. It comes in a pack of 3, with one bottle for fingerprints and dirt, one for light scratches, and one for heavy scratches. Very happy with it so far.

Had the same thing happen on Vive lense, im not sure if its different than index.
I used https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UD0GIG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and it worked great. I only used the number 2 soultion and then the number 1.

Thank you! I didn't realize that the clouds and sky would open up like that at the end. Here's the cannon I used MATCC Adjustable Foam Cannon 1 Liter Bottle with Chemical Guys Pink Suds

Solution Finish Black Plastic & Vinyl Plastic Trim Restorer - Car and Truck Polish - 1 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006NZQ3T8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hO03Bb43GZ7Y0

This is the one I got and still have 3/4 left after 2 times use. Dont buy the big bottle because you only use it as little as you can. There a lot of youtube video out there. And it safe for paint to so dont have to tape everything.

You'll love this: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/Solution-Finish-Plastic-Restorer-Detailing/dp/B006NZQ3T8&ved=2ahUKEwilwJPirK3bAhXjp1kKHQQqBnYQFjAAegQIAxAB&usg=AOvVaw2NAmewTUAvPcEnTGKNywFD

thank you! I dont know which CQ I have. It doesnt specify anywhere on the product. I bought this one- https://www.amazon.com/Carpro-Cquartz-30-Ml-Kit/dp/B005DZJ7VA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481291418&sr=8-1&keywords=cquartz.

It is cold (30-50) and rainy where I live now. ill definitely be waiting for a sunny weekend to put this on.

simichrome .

Used this for years on my motorcycle chrome. Works awesome, and one tube lasts forever, as you only use a tiny bit.

I've used this stuff in the past with great results:

https://smile.amazon.com/Simichrome-390050-Metal-Polish-Tube/dp/B0002YUQ4E

Try Simichrome. I found that it works great on flat areas on silver. Use a soft cloth and the compound.

Simichrome 390050 All Metal Polish Tube - 1.76 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YUQ4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_S2d8CbHMHRMM5

A plastic razor blade and some liquid adhesive remover will work as others have mentioned. Another alternative is a eraser wheel. You just need to be careful with these as they create a lot of friction and burn plastic fairly easily. They are the correct tool for the job though.

Get yourself one of these. Eraser Wheel if you have a drill, these work great.

In another thread someone suggested a smart eraser - http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00488DDB8

They said that it worked really well. I'll be trying it out Monday on a large amount of adhesive

Price isn't so important, last year I purchased this from my local bike shop for $14 after looking up reviews on it. Just make sure its a wax, so that it stays on the chain and reduces friction, not a liquid that flings off. I clean and lube my chain a ton and I still have more than half a can left after 2 summers of riding.

Thanks for the feedback. Here is the ceramic coating I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DZJ7VA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Also, as part of the prep and pre-wash I am using:


Optimum (NR2010Q) No Rinse Wash & Shine

Carpro Iron X Iron Remover

Rain-X 620034 Spot Free Car Wash

So after writing all of this, I realized scratches seem to be your main concern, not overall paint correction. I'll leave all this info here just in case though.

For the scratches specifically, grab the basic Dr. Colorchip kit, and you won't need to worry about polishing! Otherwise doing it by hand is going to be way too much work.


If your budget is $300 you can easily afford an entire budget kit, all the way up to a DA poilsher! This is if you avoid the Meguiar's starter pack, of course.

 

Washing and claying:

1. Optimum No Rinse ($20)
   
   
2. Nanoskin Autoscrub sponge ($12)
   
   
3. 2 Home Depot Buckets ($10)
   
   
4. 2 grit guards ($20)
   
   
5. The Rag Company starter kit ($30)
   
    
   
   Polishing:
   
   
6. Harbor Freight DA Polisher ($50 with coupon)
   
   
7. 3 orange, 3 black 5.5 inch pads ($24)
   
   
8. Meguiar's M205 ($12)
   
   
9. Griot's Garage BOSS FCC ($20)
   
   
10. Isopropyl alcohol ($5)
    
     
    
    Total: $203
    
    And that's assuming you start from absolutely nothing!

Here's an alternative to the CG easy reach:

Wheel Brush

The only prob I have with this brush (I have it) is that when you pull it out of deep in the barrel, it likes to shoot a bit of spray back at you bc the bristles are stiff.

I like woolies better, but this is great too.

this stuff works amazing:

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10307-ScratchX-2-0-oz/dp/B0002UNON8

edit: you should be able to find it at your local auto parts store.

This stuff is amazing: http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10307-ScratchX-2-0-oz/dp/B0002UNON8

I daily drive mine as well. You all should try out Jet Seal. It says it lasts a year, but I try to do it every 6 months or so. The rain basically washes my car now. The stuff is like magic.

https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-WAC_118_16-Anti-Corrosion-Protectant/dp/B001TFE38A/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=jet+seal&qid=1559080493&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Buy this, and get a foam pad that can attach to a cordless drill. It's amazing stuff. It also includes UV protection in the final step. I've had experience with this many times for people in my club

https://smile.amazon.com/NOVUS-7136-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UD0GIG

I’m afraid I can’t help you there. I’m in the US. Most of what I can buy is called either polishing compound or rubbing compound, and it’s either made by Tuttle wax or meguiar’s. This is what’s available here. It’s just a paste or liquid with some very fine abrasives.

Wax is often a lot less messy. Maxima makes a really good one that takes about 2 seconds to apply and sets rather quickly. It smells nice too IMO.

Just purchased my 2nd grit guard today, in fact! Going to be big ballin with a three bucket system and try a rinseless wash in between actual cleanings which makes me extremely nervous, but everyone swears by it. My car's 7 years old and at 122k miles, so I'm beyond obsessing over every speck, thankfully. Definitely not doing it on a filthy car, though.

https://www.amazon.com/Viking-Car-Care-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B0051MYL8E/

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G18016-Clear-Rubbing-Compound/dp/B006FUT13G/

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Clear-Coat-Polishing-Compound/dp/B006FUT154/

​

Wash/Wipe the area with damp cloth to remove dirt

1. Rub the rubbing compound using pad. Scrub!
   
2. Wipe clean
   
3. Rub the polish compound using pad. Scrub!
   
4. Wipe clean
   
   Don't use too much product.
   Too much will make it to slippery.
   
   Err on the side of caution if it's still got scratches repeat the whole process again
   
   
   
   $20 and 20 mins. will make a big difference.
   
   ​
   
   ​
   Post a before
   and after picture

Thanks for the reply!

Is the D156 the same as this product from meguiars? Have you used that one? I only ask because I've seen that one readily available on the shelf of my local autozone, meaning I wouldn't have to wait days for it to ship before I got to try it out

Gave up on wet tumbling and use dry media but ad a cap full of Nu Finish Liquid Car polish.

Brass turns out looking like brand new!

​

https://www.amazon.com/Nu-Finish-Liquid-Car-Polish/dp/B000BPSW7C

Sweet!
That's really nice looking and I don't want to offend but I noticed the bumper ends and maybe the hood latches aren't as black as they probably used to be.

Try this stuff for things that just won't turn black with normal cleaners and protectors.
I used some on my Polaris stuff that had almost turned white and it really works.
Works on fingers too so you gotta wear gloves.
https://www.amazon.com/Solution-Finish-Plastic-Restorer-Detailing/dp/B006NZQ3T8

Here's something to remove the scratches from that clear piece. Also supposedly works for soft top windows.

here

Had a pretty bad scratch on one of my Samsung Odyssey lenses, and went through a few suggested solutions. Ended up using this to fix it: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UD0GIG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf.

Use a microfiber cloth (not the ones that come with the kit), and start with the #2 polish, then go to #1. Read the directions too :)

A plastic polish called Novus (Novis?) #2 and/or #3 is supposed to work well on acrylic pens. It's what Franklin Christoph recommends on their pens fwiw.

Edit: Here it is

Definitely something I've considered. But I really like the smell of the oil in a spraycan that I use....

I think upgrading my headlights to HID projectors is going to be my next project when I can scrape together the money.

I've got the MATCC Foam Cannon - use it with honeydew. Paired with the Powerstroke electric pressure washer that they sell at Costco for $150 it's a great combo without spending crazy money.

Last question, which one is better?
This:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GG9FB8U

Or this one:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D8DR0AO

And would both work while using clay for decontamination?

I have this issue on my '17 SV650, it goes away after a good cleaning.

Pick up a grunge brush and some chain wax or equivalent.

I do this after every bike wash.

Also check the chain while you have your weight on the bike.

Hi, I'm really new to detailing so can you explain what you did exactly? I googled your terms and got these.

http://www.detailedimage.com/Meguiars-M43/Ultra-Cut-Compound-M105-P388/32-oz-S1/

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B001O7PNXC

They are both polishes, right? Those sure are expensive..And you need a orange pad? A white pad? I see those pads in the first link I posted, detailedimage..The total cost for a newbie to do this is like around $60-70? Damn..I might have to live with the few scratches. Trying to invest in buckets and the whole newbie starter kit.

You'll need the proper equipment. Hopefully you already have a buffer and compound?

PM me and we can dig into the details, if you aren't familiar with the polishing process.

Personally I avoid anything wax based. I refer to used the petroleum based Nu Finish because it doesn't leave residue like wax, and it goes on and comes off easy. I started using it on my airplanes and have since found it is good for cars, to, even plastic trim.

Try this first:
http://amzn.com/B0002UNON8

If that doesn't work try this:
http://amzn.com/B003NS5NK8

Check out these forums for more information on paint care etc...

http://www.autopia.org/

I upgraded my method this time around and it went a lot better than my last car. I used a heat gun to warm up the badge (kept checking surrounding paint with my fingertips) then used some braided fishing line (25lb) with zip ties on each end to save my fingers. Sawing motion with the line behind the badge. After I carefully pop it off I did a combo of rolling the adhesive off (quick heat gun helps) with my fingers and using an eraser pad at low RPMs. Those things are amazing and it did zero damage to the paint. Rinse, wash and wax the area afterwards. If the truck wasn't brand new it might need some paint correction to make things look right.

Way cheaper than what the dealership wanted and only took me 30mins.

Try some chain wax spray, that stuff sticks to the chain very nicely.

Exactly that. The clear stuff you use for windshield repair. You take the old pads out and carefully flow that into the response groove.

I just use a cheap MATCC foam cannon from Amazon. So far I've been using the Chemical Guys honeydew shampoo and it works really well.

They say this is the stuff to use. Never personally used it, but heard nothing but good things about it. Also a heat gun will restore the faded trim/rubber, then go over it with solution finish and you'll be in top shape.

My favorite method is an eraser wheel.

you have a variety of choices as far as silicone types, most notably flowable silicone and rtv silicone.

flowable, such as Permatex's flowable windshield sealant, has an added benefit of self leveling meaning you don't have to shape the material to fit the response groove as it's thin enough to fill in the area like a liquid. Cures into a solid material after 24 hours or so.

rtv silicone, such as Permatex ultra black or Permatex high-temp red, can be more robust of a material after curing however it requires a little more manual labor as you have to shape the silicone in the groove and make it flush/level. Manual shaping means it'll be a little more messy depending on how you go about it but it's really not too bad once you get the hang of it.

Personally I prefer rtv silicone for the variety of formulations I can use but most beginners will probably use flowable since it's far more convenient to pour.

when i first started out i went down to my local hardware store and picked up a small tube of rtv silicone, brand not a factor, and just started practicing on a couple of throws that I had really worn down the response on.

Use the sealer first and then the wax. Wax should always be last on the list. I have use this Jet Seal 109 from CG that seems to last and give a good shine. Chemical Guys JETseal 109 Anti-Corrosion Sealant (16 oz.)

Personally would go with Meg 's M21

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002J854UC?keywords=Meguiars%20sealant&qid=1457841538&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

Good sealant that will last a while.