(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best automotive tools & equipment

FUCK YES to making festivals a larger part of your life. One of the best decisions I’ve ever made :) I don’t know about the best shoes for dancing, but I always wear Vans to shows and festivals and I’ve never had an issue with my feet hurting. I think they’re a great option :) As for things to take the night of or after partying I would recommend a multivitamin, tylenol and a smoothie. The best thing you can really do to help yourself out is to eat lots of fruits and veggies in the days leading up to an event (or all the time!). Also constantly drinking water. I’ve tried a lot of extra supplements and misc. vitamins but they all are kinda extra and not needed to me. Also I constantly eating Cliff bars at festivals even when I’m not hungry. I feel better usually when I really really load up on calories. Healthier ones though!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LCBRQK5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just bought this air mattress this year so haven’t tested it longterm, only used it for one festival so far. It stayed inflated well for the first 2 days and then we just topped it off with some more air for the remaining days and it worked great for us. Super comfy and it’s nice being higher off the ground. We put the air mattress in the tent before we inflate it, way easier. No air pump needed we use a car plug adapter and an extension cord. Its super easy to run your car for 5 minutes to inflate it. Make sure you pay attention to the number of prongs on your plug so you don’t buy the wrong adapter or extension cord too! For camping without a car nearby this method won’t work obviously but we always have the car by us.

https://www.amazon.com/Foval-Power-Inverter-Converter-Charger/dp/B01H2XD2DY/ref=sr_1_3?crid=QOQ31WLDSSM1&keywords=outlet+car+adapter&qid=1562429828&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&s=gateway&sprefix=outlet+car+a%2Caps%2C149&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Coleman-Sundome-4-Person-Tent-Green/dp/B004J2GUOU/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=coleman%2Btent%2B4%2Bperson&qid=1562429920&s=gateway&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1

My boyfriend and I purchased this tent 2 years ago and its made it though a decent amount of festivals. No signs of wear or damage. I know you mentioned a black out tent. I’m assuming to help sleep once the suns up? The heat usually gets me out of the tent before the light, it gets so unbearably hot once the suns up. You said you’re not new at this though so I’m sure you already knew that! :)

For staying cool I would recommend a cooling towel. Get it wet in your cooler ice water and it’s great to keep around your neck. Also small hand fans are a GAME CHANGER for guys and girls. It’s shocking how much they help honestly. Sitting with your feet in a small pool, bucket, or cooler when you’re hanging out at the campsite is super nice too. Just fill with water and some ice cubes and it really helps cool your body down!

https://www.amazon.com/Amajiji-Chinease-Japanese-Nylon-Cloth-Festival/dp/B07FMCF4G1/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=hand+fan&qid=1562431437&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Cooling-Instant-Chill-Athletes-Workout/dp/B00XKLYWFU/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=cooling+towel&qid=1562431333&s=gateway&sr=8-6

Hope this info helped you out!

I used to puncture (not open) cans of veggies, like corn, drain 1/3 the liquid, and heat them in the engine compartment of my car while driving. Think I moved beyond that.

Hard pretzels are consistently the one snack that's with low/no oil. Still would check ingredients. Not quite WFPB, but widespread, vegan and low fat. Still, I find snacks like these don't give good satiety and I keep reaching for them. Easy energy.

Taco Bell is vegan with modifications. Enough oil in it though but food on the go. The two easiest and cheapest things to order is thus:

• Bean Burrito. Make it fresco (means replace dairy/cheese with pico de gallo).
  
  
• Crunchy or Soft Taco. Make it fresco. Remove Beef. Add black beans.
  
  Grande meals composed of this are huge and cheap. Check your orders before leaving. Some locations really are bad at screwing it up.
  
  Some equipment I recommend in your situation:
  
  
• A good chef's knife for chopping and prep work and a short knife (2-3") for peeling and other work.
  
  
• a foldable mat to do chopping on. These are cheap and much easier to clean and portable than wooden blocks.
  
  
• A collapsible silicon colander. Portable. To clean greens. I don't use a salad spinner much anymore, takes up a lot of room and I don't want my greens that dry.
  
  
• Like before, a collapsible silicon bowl for salads and other prep plus to microwave and eat direct from. Easier than constantly tossing paper plates.
  
  
• small glass jar (from marmalade or anything used) to mix dressing with.
  
  For much of your cooking, a microwave will actually be enough. Oatmeal, potatoes, rice, beans. Sure spaghetti and the rest will work too with practice.
  
  Panfrying and searing isn't a major requirement in the WFPB kitchen and much could also be done in a conventional oven. You can get a toaster-oven for around $50 if you stay in the same room consistently although I don't think it's necessary. You can get yourself an countertop cooktop for $50-100, but the room will unlikely have ventilation or an outdoor, so this or toasteroven can backfire if smoke occurs.
  
  There is one product I don't necessarily recommend for the hotel with the microwave, but if you are out on the road with a car a lot, and that's a HotLogic Mini Oven:
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/HotLogic-Mini-Personal-Portable-Black/dp/B00EC7XJ00/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1550340406&sr=8-3&keywords=portable+oven
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Foval-Power-Inverter-Converter-Charger/dp/B01H2XD2DY/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1550340598&sr=1-6&keywords=car+inverter
  
  Consider this not for cooking but for reheating. It's a glorified hot plate that won't burn anything. I recommend the 12v with an good inverter in the car over a 12v version for the simple reason that you can use it in hotel rooms without modification. If you buy a 12v version and buy an adapter for outlets, you are much more likely to forget the adapter in hotel rooms.
  
  If it's in the running due to extra people, 2 mini size is better than one family size imo.
  
  The pyrex 6 cup they sometimes bundle with it is not spillproof so it was useless for soups and other wet stuff, but I got a 46 or 54oz glass glasslock-style spill-proof container at a local Marshalls that was perfect.
  
  There is also those Indian Heat n Eat meals. Kohinoor and the like. Many have butter but there were some vegan varieties.
  
  Also, up raw food eating. Fruits, salads, etc.

If you have a smartphone I would recommend a wireless OBII scanner!. I can't speak for this particular model, but mostly they're all cheap and do an OK job.

I would get some sort of universal emergency kit, such as a JustinCase! or something similar. You will probably never use it, but it is great to have when you do need it. It's also small and compact so it won't take up much space. You can also fit a few more basic tools in this bag if you wished.

I would also recommend having an envelope with your insurance, registration, and possibly a photocopy of your license(I forget my wallet often and it's nice to have a copy just in case). You can laminate these if you so wish. You wont lose your important stuff and it wont get ruined either!

I would also recommend doing your own maintenance on your car. You get to learn a little more how it works and best of all you save money! Youtube has many videos on basic car maintenance. If you ever do more complex work I would recommend picking up a Haynes or Chilton repair manual for your vehicle.

I went from literally knowing nothing about cars to rebuilding engines. I'm not a mechanic and don't make any money from this. I just value being able to fix something myself. It takes time, but a great way to get started is to learn how engines work on youtube or whatever. Once you have a general understanding of how an engine works you can diagnose problems much more easily.

This is what I have. It works awesome. You will need a velcro backing plate and the pads to go with it.

So for example, my setup was the porter cable polisher, the Meguiar's 105 & 205 polishes, a 6in. velcro backing plate, orange pads used with the 105, and white pads used with the 205 polish.

I started with the orange pads and the 105 to "cut" the paint. Just to get all those deeps swirls out. This will leave micro swirls, which is why you have to follow up with the 205 and white pads. You could probably skip the 105 step all together and just use either the white pads or black pads. (that is if you don't have really bad swirls) I would probably try to black pads first as they would be the safest and less abrasive.

So here's how I would do it with your car if you just want to try and get minor swirls out. I would 2 bucket wash, dry, and then clay. I would then tape off all your trim (if you plan on doing the whole car) as getting polish stuck between trim or on trim is a PITA. I would just worry about trim that is close to paint. Prep work will take time, but you won't have to slow down when polishing each panel. So once your trim is taped off it's time to get to work. Decide which panel you want to start with. Apply 3-5 drops of 205 polish to the black pad, have some water (preferably distilled) in a spray bottle and mist the pad. Go over to the panel and stick the pad against the panel to spread out the polish. You should have a couple spots where there's 3-5 drops of polish on the panel now. Bring the polisher up to speed, (I usually do a middle speed) and start working the polish into the panel going back and forth in a sweeping motion. Once you have thoroughly gone over the panel, carefully turn off your polisher without lifting off. If you lift off you will get polish EVERYWHERE. Now wipe it dry with a soft microfiber towel. I purchased brand new microfiber towels (basically the softest ones too) from The Rag Company. You want to remove ALL polish residue from the panel as soon as possible. Do not move onto the next panel without doing this. This will also give you an opportunity to check your work. Use a bright light to see if you can spot anymore swirls. You shouldn't see any.

I am by no means a professional, I have only done this once on my own personal vehicle. I believe I got pretty good results. Take my advice with a grain of salt. I just watched Youtube videos to learn what I know. I hope this helps! Don't be too worried or nervous. It's pretty easy and was pretty fun. But I won't lie, because I went over my car twice, my arms were killing me by the end of the day. I could barely finish the last panel (it was on the side) because my arms just wanted to give out. It was hard work, but so so worth it!

It should also go without saying, but be sure to either do this in a garage or in complete spot. You want the paint to be cool and you don't want the polish to dry on the panel. Also you don't want to have any dust blow on your paint or settle. Basically you want your paint as clean as possible before you go to town with your polisher.

There’s only so much a powered all-in-one sub combo can do. It’s all a compromise.


They’re not going to be able to compete with a more robust external amp, a full-size driver, and an enclosure with adequate volume.


I’m just saying to temper your expectations.


but regardless of what you have, the box should definitely be secured. ESPECIALLY SO if the box shares the same space as passengers. It’s a major hazard in the event of a crash.


Apart from getting thrown around, any energy spent vibrating/shaking the box is lost output.


Whatever the gear, I’m all for installing it in the proper way to let it reach it’s potential.


......


There’s multiple ways to do it:


L-Brackets are one, like 4 of em, decent sized, screwed/bolted right to the side of the box and then secured to the floor.

To do that, you could drill through the floor pan and use a nut and bolt to secure the brackets


Kind of a pain to remove the box that way....and just in general.


Better would be to slip a board under the carpet/liner; bolt that through the floor, and use insert nuts to add threads to the board that you can screw the L-brackets to.


and even better than that, skip the nuts and bolts and use threaded rivets to add threads directly to the metal floor pan


That does involves buying another tool, though. There’s a cheaper version at Harbor Freight, but the rivets are soft and somewhat prone to spinning in the hole.


The easiest method overall is to just use a ratchet strap over the top, secured to cargo hooks. Which you can add if need be with the techniques above.


....


If you drill:

Always check, double check where you’re drilling; and anytime you drill through painted metal, good to use touch-up paint around the hole or at least apply some grease to prevent rust.


It really helps to set a centering divot with a punch or hammer and a nail. It’ll keep the bit from wandering

The answer to your question as-asked is that VA Tire for $114 is probably having a tech do a diagnostic and give you an estimate, which might or might not take a fair amount of time (some really generic codes, like an evap system one, can require a fair bit of testing to get down to the point where you can generate an estimate). Jiffy Lube is probably just scanning the code, which is only a few seconds of work, and if it happens to turn out to be something they can fix they'll offer to do it, but if it's not they're not going to go any further. JL is not exposing themselves to any risk of spending more than a couple of minutes, therefore they can offer that service for free. So that's the short answer.

I personally don't like JL (see my other comment if you care, it's sort of a YMMV situation), but there's nothing wrong with what they're offering. A free code scan like that -- which you can get at a lot of places, including most auto parts stores (or a buddy with an OBDII scanner, they are pretty cheap now) -- isn't a bad starting point if you've got a trouble light on the dash and need to pass emissions or something. Sometimes the code will tell you pretty much exactly what's going on and what needs to be done, and you can decide from there who you want to have fix it (or even DIY, if you're comfortable with whatever needs to be done). If the scan alone isn't conclusive, then I'd go to a real shop... and probably be prepared to pay a diagnostic fee if I have them diagnose the issue and don't have them then go and fix it; that seems only fair for their time.

Depending on what's going on that's prompting the question, you may want to ask or look at previous questions asking for recommendations of repair shops in N. VA... I don't have anything specifically against VA Tire, but I haven't heard anyone ever say that they were particularly awesome, either, and there are plenty of very well-regarded shops around who I'd probably go to first.

Griot’s Garage 6” w/ 25’ cord


Hey all! Thanks for all the great advice most of you give on here. I learn a ton from you.

I need/want to buy my first DA Polisher and I’ve been following prices for a few months now on different brands. This one above usually is $165 but now is only $138. Should I go for it or hold out for a better one like The Boss for $380 currently and see if that drops?

I’d REALLY love a Rupes but can’t afford $400 and I’ve never seen those prices drop.

I know this DA is a mid level one and honestly will more than likely be good for me. I’m just going to be doing my GLI and my GF car. Maybe a few others here and there from time to time. Although, next year I’d like to maybe start picking up a few jobs every so often.

Thanks for all your time and advice in advance.

Hopefully a future master detailer I’ll become.

Here is the OEM upstream sensor you need: http://www.amazon.com/Denso-234-4099-Oxygen-Sensor/dp/B000C5WCN6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1380741249&sr=8-1&keywords=2344099

You don't necessarily have to buy it off Amazon but they have the best price for it. Denso is Hondas OEM manufacturer. Make sure it is the Denso 234-4099 model number. It is what it came with. Also, for spark plugs and wires, use NGK. NGK ZFR5F-11. You should be able to go to an auto parts store and get those. It shouldn't cost more than $3 a piece and you need 4. Here are the spark plug wires: http://www.amazon.com/NGK-HE76-Premium-Spark-Plug/dp/B000IY8ODS/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1380741594&sr=1-1-fkmr1&ymm=1998%3Ahonda%3Acivic&keywords=1998+honda+civic+dx+spark+plug+wires

As for tools, you'll need a 7/8" offset o2 sensor socket and a breaker bar because it will be on tight! For the spark plugs, you'll need a 5/8 spark plug socket with a rubber piece or a magnet inside to grip the spark plug. the wires won't require tools but you'll need a bit of dielectric grease to prevent the elements from getting to the connections.

I recommend you use this spark plug socket. It's treated me really well and is very durable: http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-80546-8-Inch-6-Inch-Swivel/dp/B0014ZVSVK/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1380741751&sr=1-1&keywords=spark+plug+tool Also, it won't hurt if you go and buy a 3/8" 6" extension for your 3/8" ratchet.

Get NGK spark plugs. They are what the engine is designed for, and they're pre-gapped.

The pros use a tool like this to reach into the wells without worrying about a chain of extensions coming apart. Whether its worth the cost is up to you.

I always use anti-seize. I don't think its as important as it used to be, but its cheap and it gives me peace of mind. Also be sure to put dielectric great on the wires.

If you do it, be prepared to take a lot of stuff out, especially the battery and air intake. Its not an easy job, but it can save you a good amount of money.

I use a 35ah deep cycle SLA battery like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HC57NXC/

SLA doesn't require any venting and works fine even upside down. They can also be left trickle charging forever, which makes a great backup if the power ever goes out. I get 3-4 nights at 14/18 on BiPAP without the humidifier. Humidifiers can be used, but it more than doubles the discharge rate. I still hook up the humidifier, but I leave it set at zero. This gives a bit of passive humidity. Your trolling motor box is fine. I use a toolbox with some plastic glued in to keep the battery in position. All the wiring can go inside (just like your trolling box), with a 12v cigarette adapter on the outside. This makes for a compact unit.

A voltmeter on the outside is really handy to know how much juice you have left. Also, I leave it charging all the time, so the voltmeter lets me know that everything is 100% ready. This one I picked up has USB too:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QKDXB8E/

I use this cheap charger (The "Battery Tender" ones are recommended, just a bit more expensive):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051D3MP6/

The total cost was under $125 (plus a DC to DC adapter, which it sounds like you don't need).

Shoot me a message if you need a hand getting setup.

edit: here's some pics

http://i.imgur.com/5AQaiw9.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/sHb3sQr.jpg

Here's some good, firsthand info:

Choosing a Battery

A sample of other components

How long will a battery last with/without humidifier?

You can buy everything online, though it's easier to go to a harbor freight with a coupon if you have one. There are plenty of polishers you can buy online of course, but none are as cheap (at least with decent quality) as the harbor freight model. You can of course buy a much better polisher at your local lowes / home depot however unless you have a lot more use for it it's probably not worth it over the harbor freight one (a good polisher will cost you $200+). Everything else you can find at any auto parts store, or maybe even walmart.

Here's some links

• Polisher - http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-variable-speed-dual-action-polisher-69924.html (no matter what you want a dual action polisher, as other kinds require more skill to avoid damaging your paint)
  
• Cutting pad - http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-compoundcutting-foam-pad-60311.html
  
• Polishing pad - http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-polishing-foam-pad-60309.html
  
• Ultimate compound - http://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM?sa-no-redirect=1 (you can skip if your paint isn't bad, no bad swirl marks or scratches)
  
• Ultimate polish - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HCOE8Q/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687402&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B001O7PNNM&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1P9X3VP7TVA943BYC6C7
  
• Sanding block - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQYZ8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (if you're going to use touch up paint)
  
• Microfiber rags - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANZHG7C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Wax applicator pads - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051MYL8E/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1
  
• Duragloss - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002W0ZNIU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Color matched touch up paint (if needed) - http://www.automotivetouchup.com/
  
• Detail clay - http://smile.amazon.com/Simoniz-S57-Perfect-Finish-Detailing/dp/B0081OSRQQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1414207600&sr=1-2&keywords=clay+bar
  
• Foam applicator pads - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQZPW/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1
  
  Basic steps:
  
  

1. Start with touch ups if needed. Apply touchup paint to chips with a toothpick, in small amounts. Let it dry and do another one, build it up until it's above the level of the surrounding paint (may take many coats). Let it dry at least several days and make sure it hasn't sunk in. After it's dried for several days, use some water and the sanding block to gently sand them down flush with the rest of the paint. It will look bad, don't worry. Give the paint a few weeks to cure before moving on.
   
2. Wash the whole car with dawn dish soap and let it dry. Mix up some dish soap (maybe 1 tablespoon) with water in a spray bottle. Spray a section with the soapy water and then rub it down with the clay. This is a very mild abrasive which will remove contaminates, tar, bugs, etc and give you smooth clean paint. Wash car after.
   
3. Use the rubbing compound with the cutting pad everywhere you can. Don't try to get into tight areas or spots where you can't put the pad flush, because you'll shred the foam pad. Do the tough spots by hand with foam pads. Wash the car to remove any residue.
   
4. Repeat with the polish pad and polish, same technique as with cutting.
   
5. Apply the duragloss to a clean car by hand with the cloth applicators. Use sparingly, then wipe off with microfiber rags.
   
   You are done! In most environments the duragloss will last 6+ months. If you keep your car protected with it, you won't need to do the cutting/polishing again (or at least, not for a while).
   
   The trickiest part of the whole process is the compounding and polishing. Here are some helpful videos.
   
   

• How to use a dual action polisher - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xrse_DBaUbc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5MYqiBLIU9c
  
• How to touch up paint - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=15T08rfuTSg
  
• How to clay your car - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fqW1nzgyMNA
  
  And that's about it! It's easier if you don't do touch ups, but I figure if I'm going to put this much work in it, might as well get them. And if you do it right (with careful application and then sanding) the touch ups look nearly flawless (most look terrible because people don't bother to sand them flush).
  
  edit: two other tips...
  
  

1. If you have black rubber trim, say around the windows, mirrors, door handles, etc you either need to keep the polisher away from it or put masking tape on top of it. The rubbing compound and polisher will scuff up softer materials like rubber and it will look bad.
   
2. When working with the polisher, always turn it off while still on the surface of the car (preferably still moving it) and let it slow down before lifting it off. If you life the polisher off at full speed it might send the polishing pad flying (it's held on with sturdy velcro). When this happens the velcro is basically shot and you're going to need to get a new pad. If you make sure you always turn it off while still in contact with the car, and you don't try to put it on any sharp corners or narrow areas where you can't get good flat pressure across the whole pad, you should be able to do the entire car with a single pad.

Look at all of the colors of pads out there. Blues, blacks, and Red are for finishing. Whites, oranges,and yellows are medium to high aggressive.

On my black paint I used an Orange, Green, Black, then red for waxing. I used CG V36 and V38. But used the V36 on my Orange pad only then V38 on the Green and Black pads. To bring me to a liquid wax/sealant on the red pad. Let it cure, then the next day applying Collinite as my last step.

I don't think you should focus on removing 100% of the swirls. But make it look 50-80% better. You don't want to wear down your paint. I highly recommend a test spot. My favorite is the top of the trunk. Tape off half of it. Do half through all of your steps. Review it with a few different lights, and sunlight to see your progress. Maybe take some photos of it. Once you get to the waxing with the polisher, it'll cover up the remaining swirls as the machine is amazing for waxing. Just don't machine wax a car if you haven't clayed or polished.

The biggest thing is to get the pattern of buffing down. And to be patient. For me, I could never do an entire car in one day. I'd do the hood and one half of the car, as best I could, then do the other half the next weekend or the next day.

Another thing, go on the Lexus Forums or even Autopia detailing and look at their detailing steps on the same car/paint. They may show the products they used and pads. But it's also not about the products but you can ask them questions if you need any quick tips. Overall, I think a few passes with 3 pads with a liquid wax will do wonders for your test spot. And if you proceed then tape off sections of the hood into 6ths and door panels into 4ths.

Amazon example: Hover over the Style for the pad and it will show you the color.. You can review the crap out of every product out there, but you just have to decide, then do it. I've used those exact pads and they worked awesome. Choose 2 polishes and 1 liquid wax along with 1 hand wax like Collinite or something else. Don't forget to clay bar your car before polishing and even though I don't always use a backing plate, it makes handling the DA polisher easier.

I have a Carista and didn't use my free trial until there was a code I really wanted to get more info about. (It gives "regular" codes without a subscription, but some of the more Toyota-specific, you have to get a subscription for it to display the last couple of digits, but it comes with a month free trial that you activate when you need it. Some of the other scanners may be different, but based upon a recommendation, it's the one I chose)

There are two batteries in a Prius. There's a 12v that boots the computer and whatnot. If that hasn't been replaced, it may be soon due (and replacing it could possibly get you a little better gas mileage), but it's only a couple of hundred bucks from an auto parts store and you may not need to replace it any time soon.

There's also the big hybrid or traction battery for the electric motor. ChrisFix has an excellent video about replacing it yourself, if that's something you'd like to do. Everybody will tell you it's cheaper to buy one from someone other than a dealer, but luckily I haven't had to do it and my older Prius has around 197k.

Of course, some people have had to replace them much earlier -- this forum or Priuschat.com could be a source of more info -- but I'd say the majority of people have had not. I've noticed a lot of Prii on the market around 116k to 130k. I believe it's because the battery warranty runs out at 100k, everywhere but California, where they require the same battery to be warrantied for 150k. And again, knock on wood, I have one pushing 200k.

You probably got downvoted for recommending Craftsman...
I think Craftsman is just fine for an amateur - especially someone who's asking for advice on what to put in their toolbox.
There are some things you can go even cheaper on - Harbor freight sockets are good to have, as are their box wrenches. Anything that requires gripping (vice grips, pliers, etc.) I buy the best I can afford - cheap stuff will just strip itself and whatever you're trying to remove. Irwin (the original Vice Grip) makes good stuff for the money, IMO.
I really, really like this set from Craftsman for my truck - add a few types of pliers, channel locks, breaker bar, this cheapo bit set, hammer, magnetic pick up too, flashlight (a headlight is even better, especially on the side of the road), safety glasses, gloves, wire brush, electrical tape, duct/gaffer's tape, teflon tape and you have the ready for damn near anything box.

• Kreg pocket hole jig -- $40 to make carpentry projects super easy.
  
• Rivnut tool -- for mounting things to sheet metal.
  
• Shop towels -- more versatile paper towels.
  
• good cooler -- ice last 5-8 days even in the middle of summer heat.
  
• bug nets for windows -- but them pre-made or build your own. Gives you airflow in summer without letting the bugs in.
  
• candle lantern -- cheap. Safe if you blow it out before crawling into bed. Nice soft lighting to give you a break from blue LEDs.
  
• Aeropress coffee maker -- great coffee where ever you are. Quick and easy to clean.
  
• mechanic gloves -- for when you've got to do work and don't want super greasy hands and bloody knuckles.

Ok so coolant is probably ok but better to change it, I am still learning how to change coolant so I will do it afterwards. But I used a tester and it's just 1C below the recommended level 265C so I guess coolant is still pretty good. Also didn't see sediment or crap in the coolant. Coolant tester is this one is it any accurate? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BOA9RY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Yeah brake fluid definitely going to change that, will be changing it to TYP 200 the blue one.

​

If I track the car 3,4 times a year, how often to change out the TYP 200?

I used [a gap tool](CTA Tools 3235 Ramp-Type Spark Plug Gapper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00144AZ6K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fP7yzb4SG09CC)
and [a spark plug socket](GearWrench 80546 5/8-Inch x 6-Inch Swivel Spark Plug Socket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014ZVSVK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lS7yzbJ13QJA3.) like these and it was pretty easy. The spark plug sockets either come with a rubber gasket that grips the spark plug or a magnet so you can get them down into the chamber and get the old ones out easily.

To remove the coils, I believe, you'll either have to have a deep well socket or a standard box wrench will do. It's also recommended that you torque the spark plugs to the manufacturer's specs if you have a torque wrench handy.

The thermostat location probably won't move much between model years especially if it's the same engine type. Either way, just watching a couple videos on replacing thermostats on ANY car will teach you enough to find yours - it's probably right at the end of the lower radiator hose.

Did I say "filter" ? Sorry, I meant "funnel". And no, you don't have to have one. You can effectively burp the car without it, the funnel just makes it much easier. . You definitely need to burp it well though, if you don't get all the air out you'll have cooling issues. Sure you can reuse the existing coolant, just be careful to trap it all in clean containers and keep it clean while you work.

But now, let's talk about your car for a bit as your Dad may be jumping to conclusions a bit. First of all, can you really carefully describe what the issues with your inside heat is ? Does air come out, but not the right temp? Or does no air come out ? Does the car take a really long time to warm up ? Or does it overheat ?

FYI the thermostat's job isn't to control a temperature of something like a house thermostat. It's basically an off/off valve that prevents coolant from circulating until the car has warmed up. Once the car has warmed up to operating temperature, the coolant hits a certain temperature, this prompts the thermostat to open up and let the coolant circulate which keeps the car at that temperature. It's not a thermostat like "set the inside air to warm".

FORscan is a program that allows you to make changes to the software on Ford and Mazda vehicles.

You must use an ELM327 OBDII adapter with MS/HS-CAN toggle switch. I recommend this OHP unit for $30. It's USB instead of Bluetooth, but unless you want to spend $70 on a quality BT unit, something like the OHP is your best bet. Furthermore, the Windows build of FORscan is the most stable, so you're probably going to use a laptop, anyway.

You will need the free Extended license of FORscan to enable Sport mode.

Your best bet is to get a code reader, if you don't already have one. Here is a cheap one on Amazon. Failing that, your nearest VIP or other auto shop will usually read the code for you for free.

Once you know the diagnostic code it's throwing, you'll have a better idea what happened.

I'm leaning toward it not being a frozen anything; if something froze in the injectors, you have a lot of water in your gas, which would cause problems even when it's not cold out.

Very often rough idle is caused by MAF and O2 sensors. You also might be having issues in the ignition system, so check your plugs, wires, and distributor.

Good luck, and please come back to post more question, or if you found the solution, post that.

I imagine you mean the check engine light codes? I haven't used it on a TL, but I used something like this before on another Acura:
https://www.amazon.com/Foseal-Bluetooth-Scanner-Diagnostic-Android/dp/B00T5G53ZM

I imagine something like this would work the same, and doesn't require a phone or other device to pair it with:
https://www.amazon.com/Oxgord-Scanner-Engine-Diagnostics-Direct/dp/B011Q18D14

So those should be able to tell you the specific codes needing attention as well as an option to clear them if you want. Of course, clearing doesn't do you any good if you don't do anything about the issues, it can very well come back. But once you have the specific codes, look them up online and see if you can pinpoint the possible issue and get it fixed. At the very least, you can know how serious it is.

The first thing I would try is this:

Meguiar's Ultimate Compound

Meguiar's X3070 Soft Foam 4" Applicator Pads

Meguiar's X2020 Supreme Shine Microfiber Towels

All 3 of those together is under $20 (need to spend $25 since one is an add on item). This stuff is amazing for scratches and paint in general. While it won't make your car showroom ready, it will make it look much better and is totally worth the $20.

Essentially what you do is first make sure the area is clean, then apply the compound to the pad and rub the compound on your car using circular motions. After you do that for a minute or two, use the towel to remove the compound form the car.

I was also a beginner at the beginning of the year. I went out and bought [Meguiars 105] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B003LMGDHI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496750162&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+105), and [Meguiars 205] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B003LMJP4Q/ref=pd_sim_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003LMJP4Q&pd_rd_r=YK6JBJ416NKY6325PPQG&pd_rd_w=WZ6u4&pd_rd_wg=LD9ed&psc=1&refRID=YK6JBJ416NKY6325PPQG), a [chicago electric DA from harbor freight] (https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-57-Amp-Heavy-Duty-Dual-Action-Variable-Speed-Polisher-62862.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiODkwMjE0MTgiLCJza3UiOiI2Mjg2MiIsImlzIjoiNDkuOTkiLCJwcm9kdWN0X2lk%0D%0AIjoiMTE0NDYifQ%3D%3D%0D%0A), and ordered [orange and white hex logic pads from amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-BUFX-102-HEX5-Hex-Logic-Medium-Heavy/dp/B0040MI9H0/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496750285&sr=1-1&keywords=hex+logic+pads). This will be a good start. Get these things, should cost between 120 and 150 for all of it depending on where you buy, and that DA goes on sale quite often, looks like it's currently down to 49.99, so now would be the time to buy. I started off doing my Formula and then did my Sierra, and now have had a few other people come to me for correction and have a pretty good grasp on what I'm doing.

1. Watch tutorials by Junkman2000 on youtube.
   
2. Use the right size pads for your backing plate. The DA listed above comes with a 6" flimsy backing plate, and you should replace it with a 5" so it is smaller and easier to work with. Mark your backing plate as well, so if you push too hard, you'll see it stop spinning. Good for figuring out how much force you SHOULD be using.
   
3. Take your time, and work at it slowly, you will have results.

The Pioneer will fit your car, and think it's a good choice.

A soldering iron, digital multimeter, shrink tubing and good electrical tape (3m super 33+) are all good investments to have if you are doing car audio/electrical work.

If you don't have access to a soldering iron or butt connectors you can use a military splice and electrical tape. If you do solder the connecting you can still do a military splice first.

For a decently priced digital multimeter I'd recommend this one.

How about selecting what he will eat off of the healthy list and have a contingency plan for hot food? I think I can help you out here. There are several devices to heat food even on the go. The Mini Crockpot Lunch Warmer is about $15-$20 (depending on color choice) and is great for soups, stews, (turkey?) chili, and pasta with sauce. There is also the Hot Logic Mini Oven ($30-$40 watch for sales!), which is a hot plate inside an insulated, zippered bag. You can put a frozen dinner still in the box, cooked leftovers or raw chicken or fish and it cooks/reheats slowly at a low heat. Plug either of them into the car's lighter with an AC Car Converter ($17) in the morning/beginning of his work day and it will slowly come to temperature and hold it until he's ready to eat!
They took away our microwave at work and I've had to adapt. I love them both!

I got my '15 PCX new in early 16 for around $3000 (if I remember correctly) + extra to build it and shipping fee. I think the build fee was like $100-$200 and another $100 for "shipping" it to the dealer. I think your getting an average deal.

Make sure the helmet you get is Snell certified. From what I remember the Snell cert is higher than the DOT cert. If this is your first helmet and you don't know what your doing, have the dealer fit you for a helmet. Its very important that it fits properly or it wont be as effective in an accident. When I got my PCX I got an HJC helmet from the dealer since I had no idea how to size one correctly. They are very nice helmets.

As far as bluetooth, make sure you read local laws. Some places make it illegal to use headphones while riding. Also, if your a new rider I would suggest not using them for a while and concentrate on the road.

As far as other stuff to buy, I would suggest a good jacket with pads and good padded gloves. If you hit the ground, you will be happy you had them.

Before winter, get yourself a small battery tender to maintain the battery while its in storage. If not, you may be buying batteries every year. My step dad has a Harley, never puts a tender on it over winter and wonders why he needs a new $125 battery every year. I got this one and it works great:

https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-BM3B-Automatic-Maintainer/dp/B0051D3MP6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1525264919&sr=8-2&keywords=battery+tender+black+and+decker

I love my Spectra -- well as much as one can love a machine that sucks your nipples. I started pumping in the hospital with a Medela Symphony, and I get so much more milk with the Spectra.

I exclusively pumped for several weeks while LO was getting the hang of latching, so here are some tips:

I'd recommend getting a power invertor so you can pump in the car if you ever need to. I have this one from Amazon and it works great.

Prepare a "pump bag" to hold all your supplies -- hands-free bra (I have the Simple Wishes bra), pump, storage bags and bottles, permanent marker to label storage bags, a little container of olive oil to lube up my flanges (helps to prevent rubbing), small kitchen rags to wipe up milk, extra pump parts, etc. I use an LL Bean tote bag to transport everything.

In between pumps, I store all my pump parts in a gallon ziploc bag and stick it in the fridge so I don't have to wash them after every pump.

My job uses Fluke, but they are pretty pricey. If you are only going to use them for Ecigs, then like everyone else has said the 20$ digital multimeters are good. Sears, RadioShack, Home Depot, and Lowes all carry budget priced tools.

I bought this one for my personal use, but I use it for PC and Auto troubleshooting as well.

Forscan is a software you install on a laptop/phone, and use an OBD adapter to change settings within the Ford software.

It sounds crazy, but it’s insane how easy it is. You can change literally any setting on the car, as well as add features. I added the digital speedometer, and tire pressure monitor to screen in the middle of the gauges.

Let me know if you need help with it. Forscan is free, and OBD adapters are like $20-30 on Amazon. I would recommend the OHP ELM27 adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F0GVBWY/

I ordered this one from deal extreme that should work. It seems, to have the right specs, but has not yet arrived. I expect to have it this week.

http://s.dealextreme.com/search/146751

This ships from Hong Kong, so be patient if you order, but I have made dozens of orders through DX over the years and they are great.

Alternatively, you can buy a small inverter and plug your wall charger into it. This is what I did on a week long road trip last week and it worked great even though it is a little hokey to convert DC to AC and then back to DC.

Mine is about 7 years old, but this one from Amazon has a 2.1 amp USB port as well as the AC outlet. Shop around, but this is the popular one that showed up in an Amazon search.

http://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-inverter-motolora-blackberry-notebook/dp/B003Q54V88/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1345467162&sr=1-1&keywords=inverter

These orange pads are 7 dollars with prime. Is that too expensive? I use these occasionally for AIO and they've been ok. Lake country is better but not available the way you want to get them.

You want pads that match the aggressiveness of the product you are using to get the best finish possible using that product. That's just how it works. You can certainly use compounding pads for polish to up the aggressiveness(m205 comes to mind with this) but you still want polishing pads to finish without micromarring. I use a minimum of two per car, per color(except lsp, I have dedicated pads for each of my products that I use), switching at about the halfway point, maybe more if I use heavier polishes/compounds. Never work with a dirty pad, you're creating frustrations for yourself.

I've gone through a few of them. This is what's on there now. That is just barely big enough for 2 700x23 tubes and 2 co2 containers. Into the sides I tuck tire levers, the co2 inflator and the 2 sizes of allen key my bike has most places.

I used to go out with only 1 tube, but then I got a flat 30 miles from my house and didn't like the feeling of not having a tube on my way home. So now I carry 2.

Before that I had this bag, which is a bit bigger. I had a larger and less space-efficient set of allen keys in that, and it also fit a tire bead jack. That last one I still carry with me in a pocket - my tires are a very tight fit, and if it's at all cold outside then it's just a lot easier to change flats with that thing than with my hands. A lot of LBS mechanics will say "oh, just use your hands!" but I type all day, so my finger strength isn't that good.

A microfiber or foam applicator pad is what you should probably use.

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3070-Soft-Foam-Applicator/dp/B0009IQZPW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407524279&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+applicator+pad
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3080-EvenCoat-Applicator-Pads/dp/B0009IQZQG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1407524279&sr=8-3&keywords=meguiars+applicator+pad

Since your just starting out this might be a good kit http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G3300-Brilliant-Solutions-Restoration/dp/B004EB12FS/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1407524279&sr=8-13&keywords=meguiars+applicator+pad

Depending on your budget and how much you see washing by hand etc, you might look at /u/TheRagCompany microfibers. They are really liked here, I just got mine and are going to try them out tonight.

Make sure to read up on good technique on the wash and correction so you don't introduce any more scratches etc.

Oh man, I know exactly how you feel! My 2.5i OB started misfiring like crazy last spring and it was a pain trying to diagnose it - I used injector cleaner, valve cleaner, cleaned my MAF and intake, swapped my MAF, and a ton of other things...finally decided to go for the plugs and wires, and after taking out the old ones found that my cylinder #4 wire and plug were dead - put in new plugs and wires all around, and it was like having a new car! I never would have suspected it to be the plugs because the car started and idled absolutely fine, but now I know!

Also, this is a lifesaver when swapping out spark plugs:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0014ZVSVK/ref=redir_mdp_mobile?refRID=1406E10SHZEDKB3XHWDP&ref_=pd_sim_auto_3

Love your OB by the way. Cheers!

Heres a couple things I like having on my bike when I travel:

AC inverter: gives you a 110v outlet in case you need to power something like a phone charger and you don't have a 12v usb connector.

Water purifying tablet: They take up about a cubic inch of space and may save your life.

Large wet wipes: For giving yourself an on the go shower in case you meet your future wife and there is no shower access.

Small mess kit: I have a serbian mess kit and I love it. The knife included has a can opener and a bottle opener and is serrated and well made.

Head lamp: Because holding a flashlight while its cold and you are trying to do something sucks. I prefer ones that have single large diodes instead of lots of little ones as they are brighter and have better color. Also I try and get ones that use 18650 batteries so I can share a charger and batteries.

Hey man, what an awesome job!
I am preparing to do my first detail by hand too...just wanted to get your ideas. Which pads did you use for the ultimate compound? Any of these you recommend? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQZQG/ or http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-HiTech-Applicator-Pad-Pack/dp/B0009IQZPW


Did you switch pads on each of those steps (ie, compound, polish, wax..)

I'm thinking to:

1. Wash + Dry
   
2. Clay Bar + Dry
   
3. Compound
   
4. Polish
   
5. Wax
   
   Is there any breaks in between any of those processes? Or can I do it one after the other consecutively.
   
   Thanks buddy :):)
   

The clay kit says it comes with some clay lube, but thanks for the tip!

Foam applicators like this: http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3070-Soft-Foam-Applicator/dp/B0009IQZPW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395465318&sr=8-1&keywords=foam+applicator?

And would I use the mitt in place of all the microfiber towels or just in some cases?

Thanks!

The second bucket is a "rinse" bucket. It is used to clean the dirt off your mitt from the dirt it encounters on your car. It contains just water, and you rub your mitt on the grit guard to get all the dirt and grime off off it. Then I typically ring it out and put it into my "wash" bucket. This bucket contains the actual car wash, I run the mitt along the grit guard and then ring it a bit and use it on the car again.
This video will provide a little insight into the process.

As far as applicator pads go, it's best to go with a foam applicator when it comes to applying wax. The reason for this is simply because a foam applicator is going to evenly distribute the wax and not provide any abrasiveness against the surface of your paint. These pads by Meguiar's should do the trick. I personally use Pinnacle Polyfoam pads from AutoGeek.net, but these are probably the same thing, they just have the Meguiar's logo.

I would recommend not using a pad for different applications. Keep one pad for wax, one for sealant, etc. The foam pads I linked can be used for sealant and wax.

However, for compound, I would go with a microfiber applicator if you are going to do it by hand. You may not get stellar results this way, but it may work, I personally have never tried it. The reason for microfiber pads here is because they offer a little more abrasiveness against your paint as opposed to the foam applicators. These may do the trick if you want to apply compound and polish by hand.

I wouldn't say that all multimeters are accurate. I have a few of the free harbor freight ones and I wouldn't trust them to read ohms. I only use them to test voltage of my batteries. You're supposed to test the resistance of your leads and then subtract that from your reading that you get, but I still find that it tends to be .1 or .2 above or below my real ohms.

I know this is one that a lot of vapers use. I heard its pretty accurate but I can't comment on that myself as I haven't owned one. It's an auto ranging one so you don't have to include the resistance of your leads if you're trying to read ohms.

If you're going for accuracy, I would trust my life with a fluke multimeter but obviously that's quite far from being affordable. It would be worth picking one up if you could get one for cheap from someone you know or craigslist or something though.

Your list looks good, but is lacking a few item IMO:

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3002-Microfiber-Wash-Mitt/dp/B000RXKR6M/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1396913798&sr=1-1&keywords=microfiber+wash+mitt The mitt you listed should be fine, but I use these. I have 3 of them and it's good to have more than one lying around in case one gets too dirty during the wash. I like to use a different one for the bottom of my car anyway.

I'd get at least one more pack of those Chemical Guys microfiber towels. The more the better.

I use Sonax Full Effect Wheel Cleaner. http://www.amazon.com/Sonax-230200-755-Wheel-Cleaner/dp/B003UT3S6Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1396914006&sr=1-1&keywords=sonax+full+effect+wheel+cleaner It's a bit pricey but it's very effective at removing brake dust.

For applying the wax, you'll need an applicator pad http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3070-Soft-Foam-Applicator/dp/B0009IQZPW/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1396914054&sr=1-1&keywords=foam+applicator+pad

um, yes?

someone posted earlier today about a new subaru with a chip-key getting boosted - that takes a lot of planning and skill, so it's not unreasonable to assume that a theft ring in search of a specific plate is going to have the equipment necessary to accomplish their goal.

sorry to break up your mediocre brag-fest about how awesome it is that you have tamper-resistant screwheads on your license plate though - i didn't realize it was important to your self-image.

edit: $11.95 for those wondering at home

I have an amazon gift card. These look good?

GEARWRENCH 80546 5/8-Inch x 6-Inch Swivel Spark Plug Socket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014ZVSVK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VPh8CbWQXEXA9

A & E Hand Tools 4450A E-Z Grip Spark Plug Gap Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002YKMCDW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RQh8CbWQM1TVT

Popular Science liked it 4 years ago. I keep a similar one in the glovebox of my car, but for the same price you can get a better meter like the one I linked before. My Fluke 87 was only $25 a few years ago on fleabay with blown current fuses, although I took a chance on it possibly being something more than the fuses. Couple that with with some $5 agilent probes also from fleabay and it was a lot of bang for the buck.

One of the best, cheapest tools I have bought is a deep magnetic spark plug socket. Swivels to get at those funky angles, too. Super nifty.

Interesting to hear that the campers are so similar!

Looks like GoCampers offers a cooler for 15 euro, which isn't too bad. As for the cigarette port, this looks like it'd serve our purposes. Thanks!

Hey man, get whatever size you want. Recalibrating the speedo is super easy and takes 10 minutes.

Buy an ELM compatible dongle (this is mine) and run Forscan on your laptop. You can change your tire size to whatever you want and your speedo, odo and everything else will be 100% accurate.


I'm running OEM FiST wheels on my EcoBoost and my speedo is still perfect, even though the 17"s are about 1" bigger on the diameter.

I've had these tires before, and they are quite a pain due to geting that tight wire bead over the lip of the rim. I have had at least minor success with either leaving stubborn tires in the sunlight or using a blow-dryer to heat up the rubber to get it to slightly expand and make it easier to convince.

I've also used the Kool-Stop tire jack to great success.

I wouldn't use the levers as a way to continue getting the tire on by this point, because it'll likely pinch-flat the tube.

Yeah, so this sounds a lot like my 99. Never threw a code for the bad O2 sensor, but would throw the cat code. You could be getting the cat code either because your cat is actually shot (although I'm not sure if that would be the cause of the bucking when cold) or because the front (and possibly rear) O2 sensors are shot, causing the computer to think your cat is shot. If you were having misfires, it's definitely possible your front O2 sensor is dying. An OBD-II sensor will be really helpful here if you don't want to pay a mechanic to troubleshoot it. I use this one and while their app works, I prefer OBD Fusion, which also has an O2 sensors monitor that will show you the self test information from the computer for those as well.

First, check to make sure the battery connection is tight; second, check to make sure battery has a charge; lastly, do you have fuel? When the bike is parked, keep it on a trickle charger. Attach a pigtail to your battery so you hook it up easily when you get home every night. If you're getting a click-click-click when trying to turn it over, it's probably the battery. I bought this trickle charger a while back and haven't been sorry at all. It also comes with a pigtail. Good luck.

• Screwdrivers
  
  
• Needle nose pliers
  
  
• Sockets
  
  
• Electric Drill
  
  
• Putty knife and spackle
  
  
• Level
  
  
• Hammer
  
  
• Work gloves
  
  
• Stud finder
  
  
• Tape Measure
  
  
• A good, small flashlight--keep one in the car and one in the home
  
  
• A toolbox to store it all
  
  
  Specifically for my truck I have:
  
  a flexing spark plug socket like this one and spark plug pullers
  
  An OBD II Scanner
  
  Auto jack(s)
  
  An oil pan and an oil filter wrench or other tool that makes the filter easier to remove
  
  And, of course, jumper cables, a poncho or two, some spare water bottles and all that good stuff that stays in the truck too.
  
  
  Edit: Honestly, this is a great place to start--Stanley 65-Piece Homeowner's Tool Kit
  
  

Pull it from the top. Pretty straightforward. Plenty of youtube vids to give you some pointers. Make sure to get all the air out of the system when refilling. If you're planning on keeping this or any other Jeep do yourself a favor and get one of these to make the refill process foolproof. Cheap online or can be had for a couple bucks more at Wally World or any parts store.

Looks like the Griots buffer. I bought one this year myself and it's very nice. There are cheaper brands, but the better the tool the better the results.

THD is total harmonic distortion, basically if it's over a certain point it begins to affect the sound quality.

The easiest option for power is a standard lead acid battery, they're a bit heavy and large but are also safe and cheap.

Here's an example.

And because they are standard you could use a small car charger to charge it up like this one.

Go to Amazon and order this (I like Meg's products),

• Harbor Freight DA
  
  
• Meg's Endurance Tire Gel
  
  
• Meg's Ultimate Protectant
  
  
• Meg's Ultimate Liquid Wax
  
  
• Meg's APC
  
  
• Rag Company's Borderless Blonde
  
  
• Rag Company's Waffle Weave
  
  
• Hex Logic White Pad (3)
  
  
• Hex Logic Orange Pad (2)
  
  
• Hex Logic Red Pad (2)
  
  
• M105
  
  
• M205
  
  
• 3M Auto Tape
  
  
• Mother's Wheel Brush
  
  
• ABN Woolies
  
  
• Trim Brush
  
  
• Chem Guys Wash Mitt (2)
  
  
• Mother's Clay Bar Kit
  
  This should run you about $345 for everything and have you setup to take care of your car for a long time. You can find a 20% discount code online for harbor freight to bring the price down $55 for the DA. Go to home depot and buy a couple buckets and you will be good to go.
  
  Edit: To add, I went to Lowes and bought a cheap inline sprayer for my hose and it works fine for foaming up the vehicle, plus it only costs $5.
  
  Edit2: If you are going to downvote me please post why you don't like my recommendation.

I have a 5.4l 3v. I have done a little research on them (as I want to know if my engine will grenade).

The 5.4L 3v does have some issues. However if you are diligent and do some preventative maintenance/repair, it can last and is a good motor.

The spark plugs that come from the factory are 2 piece plugs and seize in the head and snap off. When this first started happening this meant getting the head pulled to fix it. Now, you can buy a cheap tool, swap them out with a high end 1 piece and itll never happen again.

Now on to the cam phaser issues. The cams have a cam phasing sprocket. That change the cam lobe timing, giving better efficiency at low end (i think. It would seem to me if you build a car and get to choose which side has the best efficiency, I would do it at high speed).

These engines are notorious for these failing and costing big money. However there is a cheap kit you can get before hand, to prevent the problem.

Here is a video of the 5.4l 3v spark plug "hot extraction method". The motor is brought up to temperature, then shut down and the plugs are changed hot. Ontop of that, you use a 3/8 impact gun and they come out fine.

TL;DR this motor has quite the reputation but dont let it dissuade you if its a nice truck and you can turn a wrench and buy a 40$ torque wrench.

I use these when applying the M105:
Chemical Guys BUFX_102_HEX5 Hex-Logic Medium-Heavy Cutting Pad, Orange (5.5 Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0040MI9H0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_JnEUTcXh1t2xd


Then I switch to these to apply the M205:
Chemical Guys BUFX_104_HEX5 Hex-Logic Light-Medium Polishing Pad, White (5.5 Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0041MVQ4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_3CuEdXSpOPLHj

To be honest, I can't tell much of a difference before and after using the M205. I can definitely see improvement after using the M105 but yeah, last week I did my front driver's side fender and it took me five hours. Sad face.
Sometimes I think I should have bought a flex as I understand they work faster. I went with the PC because I understood it to be extremely safe. Being my first time and all, I wanted to be safe rather than burn my paint. But yeah, five hours/panel is ridiculous.

In my opinion, if this is your first polisher and you're not a seasoned professional, I would not recommend it.

1. it's a rotary (not a dual action) sander/grinder/polisher. Dual action is a lot more forgiving and a lot more user friendly.
   
   
2. it's 7 inches - that is massive for a first polisher. Most people recommend a 5-6 inch polisher.
   
   
3. simoniz doesn't make the most quality products. Their price points are amazing, but the quality of the product usually reflects why their price is where it is.
   
   
4. 10' cord is good if you want to strangle yourself. Using extension cables when working with a polisher is annoying as it can come unplugged by you pulling on the cord or inadvertently stepping on it moving from point to point.
   
   Look for the Griots Garage 6in dual action polisher or the Porter Cable 7424xp 6in dual action. Both can be had for nearly as cheap. I kept the GG polisher in my Amazon waitlist because it goes on sale from time to time for $155'ish which is a steal.
   
   Griot's Garage 10813LNGCRD 6-Inch Random Orbital Polisher with 25-Feet Cord https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B009UKUURO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DKqxzbQJ5NVFQ
   
   PORTER-CABLE 7424XP 6-Inch Variable-Speed Polisher https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B002654I46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6Jqxzb3VNSE56
   
   Also, check out the wikilinks in the sidebar for recommended products - http://www.reddit.com/r/AutoDetailing/wiki/index

Timing belt is a must because if it breaks, your engine is fucked. Its also the type of thing that I recommend leaving to a professional, though not necessarily a dealership. My Subaru dealership wanted $850 for a timing belt replacement. I went to a local mechanic who was well-regarded and I got it done for half that. Make sures its a Gates belt.

You could probably do all the other stuff yourself with a little help from forums and YouTube videos. I'd definitely replace the coolant because clean coolant is one of the best ways to avoid head gasket problems. Spark plugs are super easy if you take your time (and this thing makes the job even easier). I'd go ahead and replace plug wires too.

Transmission fluid is pretty easy, but don't forget to get an extra quart for the rear differential.

As far as brakes and rotors, you don't really know until you look at them and see.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00267PZUK/ref=redir_mdp_mobile

I have used this exact tool many times. It works very well with minimal effort. Do not get the engine hot for long. 5 min max to allow the aluminum head to expand enough but not the steel plug. Use 1//2 hand tools as well, 3/8 tend to flex. Source- Ford Tech.

What you should do is buy a sealed lead acid battery, a power inverter, 12v clips to cig lighter and a charger.

I just picked those products as examples but that would work and would cost around $50. It could probably be cheaper if you look around.

Also the batteries in most small UPS are around 2 amp/hour while the one I picked is 8Ah.

And that would be pretty easy to use.

The tent is technically a 4 man, though I have a 6 man that the mattress fits in a bit better. It uses a regular wall outlet, but the back of my truck has one. You can easily get an adapter though that would allow you to use your car's lighter outlet. Something like this.

>What carries a subscription?
The Bluetooth plug - Amazon comes with a Free and PAID plans. As I have not used one - I'm not sure what features come free. At £30+ for the dongle - it could be an expensive profile :)

Unlikely. The check engine light comes on for a variety of reasons but fuel economy and tire pressure is not one of them, not directly at least. What is causing the check engine light to come on may indirectly affect your fuel economy but it definitely won't come on just because the mileage has gone down or the tire pressure sensor light is on.

Get one of these ($13) and any one of the myriad programs for your phone that will read your codes. Torque is excellent if you have Android, and there is a free version.

Some tires go on some rims easily, its much more difficult on others.

There are tire bead jack tools like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K. They work pretty well, but I do not usually find them necessary.

One thing that can help is to go around the tire and push the already mounted parts into the rim as far as they will go. This can create just a little more slack to get the remaining portion on.

Well the first, and biggest, difference is power. The one you linked is 1.1amp, the griots is 7 amp and has adjustable speed, so it can work faster than the buffer you linked. The type of pads they use is different as well, the griots has a velcro backing plate so you can use pads like these. 10 inches also is quite big and probably nearly impossible to use on tighter areas.
(I'm not an expert so please feel free to correct me on anything)

All cars from the mid-90s and up have OBD 2. All the device does is essentially act as a translator to the car's OBD 2 and your device.


http://www.amazon.com/ieGeek®-Wireless-Scanner-Adapter-iPhone/dp/B00B3K2X4M

You can use either a laptop or smartphone/tablet. Don't know if that specific reader above will work, but that's the type of device.

Edit: if you do go the smartphone/tablet route it goes without saying that the included CD won't work. You need to download an OBD 2 reader app. A good one is DashCommand, and it's $10 in the App Store.

Edit 2: Here it is in action. 2 minutes, top.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vyXKRFwIOtQ&app=desktop

Don't let the wires deter you. It looks like he has that permanently mounted and those are power and audio cables. The OBD reader is still operating wirelessly.

I used to jack the front of the car up to try to raise the radiator, but I bought a kit for filling cooling systems. Actually works pretty good

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01I40ZQWE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491394577&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=spill+proof+funnel&psc=1

By tool do you mean the Rivnut setter? I got that from Amazon because I saw that it was a recommended tool to use from reading reviews about it. It ended up being pretty easy to do though and not that hard. This is the tool I bought https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TODXQW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You should certainly have your typical "manual" screwdrivers....but I would recommend a rechargeable electric driver 100000x.
The time and effort it saves is incredible. You can get a fancier one, but this one has served me well for years.

Regarding the outlet tester...get it if it makes you feel better...but, really, what good will it do? Do you know how to fix a bad ground? You could do the same tests (plus a lot more) with a good multimeter.

I love this tire bead jack. It only gets used about 3-5 times a year for changing flats and switching from snow tires to summer tires, but with super tight beads on my Schwalbes, it is a necessity.

I got this one... Carista OBD2 Bluetooth Adapter, Scanner and App for iOS and Android: Diagnose, Customize and Service your Audi, VW, Toyota, Lexus, BMW, Mini or Scion https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YVHGTBM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_zV6N96vYfBCFq

It is more expensive than some but comes with a free trial of their pro features in the app that connects via Wi-Fi. The trial is needed to do the functions you want. Just cancel the trial before they charge you the pro fee for the year.

I had previously ordered a cheaper one and tried to use random free apps, and I never got it to work.

A simpler option is to tie things to a bluetooth device that is always in the car, and is only turned on when the car is turned on. There are bluetooth car kits available. Another option (if you don't want a car kit) is to get a bluetooth ELM327 adapter like this http://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner-Engine-Reader/dp/B0051CAE1C. It plugs into the ODBII port on the car. If you install an app like Torque you can read the information from your car computer as well - helpful if the "check engine" light comes on.

You may want to invest in the extractor or find one at your local parts supplier. Best of luck!

That probably is the most feasible solution. My only question with that is if I use an inverter like this, can I gut it and remove the fan? Or will passive cooling not be sufficient for long-term use at 5 watts?

The size of the overkill inverter was part of the reason I was looking for a different way to go about this.

For like $12 on Amazon. They're great. https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Diagnostic-Scanner-Adapter-Windows/dp/B00B3K2X4M

Yeah, looks like tri wing. You need a security bit set, or you can probably buy just that bit online, but you'd have to get the size right. Sets are cheap, here is one on Amazon with tri wing bits.

Neiko 10048A Premium Security Bit Set, Chrome Vanadium Steel | 100-Piece Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O5XDOG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0fAOCbWT6QVB9

Have you tried a wired usb adapter? I couldn't get bluetooth or wifi ones to work but a wired one works great.

This is the one that worked for me

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F0GVBWY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B3K2X4M/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_AtkFub0NPCXN4

This is the one I have. It's prime-able, there are also ones not. There are a bunch of other ones too. But I have been happy with this one. The app I use is called Torque, there is a free version and a paid version.

In order for this to work would I need to get something like this? http://www.amazon.com/ELM327-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner-Scantool/dp/B0051CAE1C

If so, what's the best scanner for the money

This is the one I bought, is recommended by a modding guru at a Fusion forum (2GFusions), and works great: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F0GVBWY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Don't know if you can get it from Amazon Germany though. I thought the vendor, OHP, was based in England but not 100% sure.... Looks like they're from Estonia after all.

You can search this site, or LKQ's online website to find a Sync 3 Screen and APIM. Junkyards sell them as separate units and for a lot more, so I recommend LKQ's site first; they usually sell them together for one low price. Make sure it is Sync 3 (2016+ Focus) and not Sync 2.

​

Next, you'll need a new media hub (Part # HU5Z-19A387-A) for Android Auto and Apply CarPlay to work, as well as an adapter plate and wiring harness from 4Dtech. When you have all of these, you can plug the Sync 3 system in and it will work on its own.

​

You can choose to leave it as such and deal with some of the small bugs it may have, or you can reprogram it to work with your vehicle options. 2012 is the only year where you need to program the APIM for it to recognize the steering wheel controls. To program, you will need this OBDII reader and the FORscan program with a free extended license. With FORscan, you can flash the APIM to enable or disable settings such as the back-up camera--if you do not have one, climate control repeater (where the temperature displays on the sceen), colors and themes, steering wheel controls, etc. Do NOT play around with the hex codes too much or you may brick your APIM. I have a hex code master list I can forward to you via email if you decide to undergo the project. It sounds harder than it actually is. I was able to have it installed and programmed in about an hour.

Don't want to spend too much but will this one be any good? Carista OBD2 Bluetooth Adapter, Scanner and App with Dealer Level Technology https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00YVHGTBM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iABNDbYM2D9NB according to their website my A3 8V 2017+ face-lift is supported. ODB Eleven Standard is 3x more expensive

I would buy this DA:
http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407291588&sr=8-1&keywords=porter+cable+7424+xp

This backing plate:
http://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-4607-Velcro-Backing/dp/B003CH3Z8W/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_y

3 of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-BUFX_102HEX5-Hex-Logic-Medium-Heavy/dp/B0040MI9H0/ref=pd_sim_hi_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=0NJJRSFYV45X3EWAS3NA


2 of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-BUFX_104HEX5-Hex-Logic-Light-Medium/dp/B0041MVQ4M/ref=pd_sim_auto_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=11TRQVZC789CNJ8EXED1


1 of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-BUFX_106HEX5-Hex-Logic-Finishing/dp/B0042TTIYO/ref=pd_sim_auto_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=08HEKJEWM7H5NRFGAQNH

Pretty sure they are all compatible with the backing plate.

You can still keep the rotary to use on newly repainted cars. But a DA is still the best choice for daily detailing. A good choice would be Griot's 6" http://amzn.to/1RTSMt2
It's a little heavy but has good torque and cutting power when used with a MF pad.

Another good suggestion I haven't seen here is to make your own penetrating oil. Mix up some acetone and transmission fluid 1:1. In my experiences it works better than PB.

I've heard running Seafoam through the engine can help with spark plugs on aluminum heads.

At the worst case scenario, you'll have to drill them out with a tool like this.

Make sure when you put the new plugs in you don't overtighten them. If you're not using a torque wrench, tighten them finger tight with an extension and then do another quarter turn on a ratchet.

This is a cheap Amazon version of what I use to integrate with my Android phone. If you have a phone that can use the Torque app, download it (the free one works just fine) and connect your phone and the OBDII reader via bluetooth. It will display the code and give you the option to clear it. I do this every once in a while because the O2 sensor in my downpipe trips out every once in a while and throws P0420 at me. If after you clear the code using Torque it comes back, you probably have a problem you need to fix.

https://www.amazon.com/ieGeek-Wireless-Diagnostic-Scanner-Adapter/dp/B00B3K2X4M/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1467249895&sr=8-5&keywords=obd+2+wifi

It will work with any obd2 device, but not guaranteed. I was able to get everything but security and another module to code with mine. I'm able to diagnose and clear codes so I'm happy with it.

did you only bypass the core? so shouldn't turning the heater on still switch open the piping that would normally lead to the heater core?


at any rate I recommend a radiator fill kit like this: https://www.amazon.com/EPAuto-Radiator-Coolant-Filling-Funnel/dp/B01I40ZQWE then you just set it up and run the engine until it warms up (heater switch at least turned on a bit to open it) and this allows your coolant to be higher than the rest of the system which forces air out.

IMO, any and all of the "power stations" are overpriced.

It's just a battery...in the case of most of the "power stations", it's not even a very good one for its task.

You could :

Find a 35Ah (twice the capacity) deep cycle (superior technology for what you're using it for) battery for about $30

Buy a nice red LED flashlight for $5-$10

Throw together a power distribution panel with whatever types of plugs you like for $20-$30 or so.

Finally, for our purposes, any reasonable 12V battery charger will do.

Now you've got twice the capacity, all the same gadgets, customized hookups that suit your needs, and you've spent $50 less. :)

I recently bought that tire in a 28 and a 32. No problem on size going from a 28 to a 32 you should be able to use the same tubes as well.

Just a heads up though - they are HELL to get on the rim. Have a shop do it or invest in a dedicated INSTALL tool like this - not just a set of levers

Watch some youtube videos so you get the basic gist if this is not your first rodeo but I suggest the tool I linked to - or else you better buy a couple of patch kits or extra tubes for when you pinch the tube while trying to lever the tire bead over the rim.

PRO TIPS Throw the tire outside in the hot sun for a couple hours to expand/soften the compound and use liquid soap to lube the contact areas. Hope this helps.

This turned out more expensive than I expected because of the tools. Can somebody confirm that I'm buying the right stuff for the job? Am I forgetting anything?
Doesn't have to be Amazon, it's just convenient. 1994 Miata.

• Permatex 81150 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, .33 oz Tube
  
• TEKTON 24325 3/8-Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench, 120-960-Inch/Pound
  
• Permatex 81343 Anti-Seize Lubricant, 1 oz. Tube
  
• NGK (9160) ZE21 Premium Spark Plug Wire Set
  
• GearWrench 80546 5/8-Inch x 6-Inch Swivel Spark Plug Socket
  
• NGK (6953) BKR5E-11 V-Power Spark Plug, Pack of 1

Same to you, heard the Lisle tool http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-LIS65600-Broken-Remover-Engines/dp/B00267PZUK is amazing to use FYI.

Yep. These devices are made for that application.

If you store your car outdoor, I'd recommend getting a car cover similar to this (get one that fit your car), which will reduce paint damage from UV exposure. I also put the car on a tarp to reduce rust under it (I live in Canada, this is good for winter especially).

If you live in an area where it can go below freezing, leave your fuel tank completely full.

Fuel stabilizer is a good idea, but not necessary for 5 months.

If you want, you can also over inflate your tires to prevent them from flat spotting. Again, this is not necessary, more like the cherry on top.

​

So, to summarize, get a battery maintainer and a tarp if outdoor. Change the oil when you come back. If you stay for like 6 months, then leave the oil in the car when you leave and change when you are about to drive it.

I think that /u/rld14 pretty much covered it. But there are a few things I would add. Some of these may not apply to you, but this thread could be useful to others.

• Put the battery on a Battery Tender. You can do this in the storage unit if there is a power outlet (unlikely), or you can take the battery home and hook it up there.
  
  
• Add a fuel conditioner like STA-BIL to prevent the ethanol in the fuel from absorbing water. This should be done in addition to filling up the tank completely.
  
  
• If you don't know what kind of washer fluid was used, make sure to drain the washer tank. The previous owner may have used a summer blend that is not freeze resistant.
  
  
• Check the coolant/anti-freeze with a coolant tester If your coolant is old or too dilute it could freeze in the block during storage. That would be a nasty surprise come spring!

I agree, LOVE this body style.

When I first bought the truck a few years ago, used and relatively decently taken care of, I changed the plugs immediately (they were bad..).

One thing is, if you're going to tackle the job yourself:

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-LIS65600-Broken-Remover-Engines/dp/B00267PZUK

This tool will save you. I broke 3 out of 8 plugs. I ran one piece champions but they ran terribly. So I went back OEM motorcraft plugs and if it comes time to change em again, I am not worried because I have my lisle tool. =]

Damn I should have waited on buying my gg polishers http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009UKUURO/ref=pe_62810_128423080_em_1p_0_ti the 25' is also on sale for 99.99 seems to end at the same time. Man I could've saved 20 bucks lol oh well I still got my da's for cheaper than usual.

and Coding is super simple on those cars if you have an iPhone/iPad/Android device! Just download (and pay for) bmwhat Android or iOS. Then order This from amazon or eBay. You can seriously code your car in 20min by pressing buttons. Only module I can't seem to use is the Alarm one with that adapter (i'm sure if you buy bmwhat's adapter it'll allow you to use it)

A lot of places will try to charge you like $40 for this, even though it takes literally zero expertise or effort. You can get a bluetooth OBD reader for 11ish bucks and any one of a number of free apps for an Android or iPhone to connect to it and read codes, reset the light, etc.

Astro Pneumatic Tool 1442 Nut/Thread Setting Hand Riveter Kit, 13-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TODXQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TU1Lyb9HBZE1D

This is nice.

Get an Inverter like this one. Fill large bucket halfway with Tank Water. Move fish to bucket. Plug in Inverter into the car's cigarette lighter and add an air pump and a heater to the bucket. Plug air pump and heater into Inverter. Enjoy your drive!

For the tank itself after you have moved the fish to the bucket you can go ahead and drain the rest of the water from the planted tank. Then move the tank into your car. Once there just refill the tank and dechlorinate the water. Add the heater and air pump back to the tank and move the fish back into the tank once the water in the tank is back up to temp.

An Inverter may cost more than a battery powered air pump they can also be used for a lot more stuff. You can also get Inverters at almost any department store.

I didn't include a filter in the bucket since it's such a short trip. Don't really need a filter for two hour trip. If you were driving a long distance just add your filter to the bucket also.

Doing things yourself offers great rewards(:

If you're looking to dick around with some more stuff you can spend a few hours playing with a bluetooth OBD II connector paired to an Android phone + Torque Pro

https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Foseal-Diagnostic-Scanner-Automotive/dp/B00T5G53ZM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1473807422&sr=8-3&keywords=elm+327+bluetooth

Not professional by any means, but it's cheap, can do some things, and at the least offers a nice MPG screen

I've never used a fluke before, only heard good things about them. I will say that the one I recently purchased http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0050LVFS0 is worlds better than my previous cheap ones.

I bought a scanner just like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner-Engine-Reader/dp/B0051CAE1C

You'll need an app to use it with your phone via bluetooth, I use the free version of torque. Have had it for a couple years now and it hasn't let me down.

Clean your O2 and MAP sensor. Next guess would be something related to the fuel/air system. Buy an OBDII reader off amazon for a few bucks and read the code when you get it next. You can leave these plugged in and access it on the side of the road through your phone.

Last guess would be limp mode, but I really doubt it and if I'm not mistaken this limits you to 4500.

• edit - limp mode is 3000. You're in limp mode. Check your coolant level and if it's low, get a compression test and scope the cylinders.
  
  
• Check all wiring harness connections for a solid connection. Also check that sensors are free of carbon buildup.
  
  
• Check the engine oil level
  
  
• Make sure to always tighten the gas cap 3 clicks. This can throw the car in limp if it is not tightened correctly.

This video is a good one.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XUFVrl0UT4

BTW, you need the levers. Just go out and buy. It's not an expensive thing and very useful thing you can carry.

I suggest you to try without metal things to mount tires. If not careful, you end up cutting the tube. I've done pinch flatting the tubes a few times so this is from my experience.

If you must, try the bead jack.

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K/ref=sr_1_31?ie=UTF8&qid=1483489515&sr=8-31&keywords=tire+lever+bicycle

When I use the tire lever while mounting, I do double check the lever is not pinching the tube.

for the future. This works really great to get on the tight ones. https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K/ref=asc_df_B001AYML7K/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241975700326&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9865483448796285076&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031245&hvtargid=pla-448754439296&psc=1

Sweet, no problem. Hopefully that works well for you. If you need charger recommendations, I got a 12v black and decker charger/maintainer off amazon for about $25. I hook it up to my battery after every outing and it has worked well for 6 months.

Edit: It’s $14 on Amazon right now, and $15 at Walmart

Consider buying a tire jack instead of a tire lever:

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K/ref=sr_1_25?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1483033192&sr=1-25&keywords=tire+lever

Otherwise, I do second the support for Pedros levers, they're way better than most others.

Probably will be easier to do what you want to purchase whatever standard IP cam you like and use a power inverter to power it

https://www.amazon.com/Foval-Power-Inverter-Converter-Charger/dp/B01H2XD2DY

You have an air bubble in the head, so the temp sensor is largely reading the temperature of the much cooler air.

It's tricky to bleed a miata cooling loop fully, if the car is relatively level water pressure won't ever push air out and you'll have an air pocket that never moves. Raising the front end as much as possible helps, otherwise you can get a fill bucket like this.

https://www.amazon.com/EPAuto-Radiator-Coolant-Filling-Funnel/dp/B01I40ZQWE

You should also run the car with the cap off till the thermostat opens, then top it off and cap it off. If you just fill it up and cap it off it is certainly half full of air and might not even have enough coolant to actuate the thermostat.

Second this. It's a revnut or pemnut. Did use them extensively, pretty sure you can't retap it, it would just spin.

The tool to install them is here https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003TODXQW

I'd just rip it out and put in a new one.

A multimeter costs like $20 FYI, and is a good tool to have.

I think it's more to do with the battery not having enough time to fully charge due to the short driving distance.

Perhaps you should pick up a voltmeter for like $10ish on Amazon.com or a local shop? You can take measurements in the morning when it's not starting well and later in the day when it is starting well. It'll be difficult for the dealership to replicate your driving pattern so perhaps it's best that you do it.

Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3721-Battery-Charging-Monitor/dp/B000EVWDU0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1406872499&sr=8-3&keywords=voltmeter+car

I have this one but it's a bit more complicated and works on other things also: http://www.amazon.com/Mastech-MS8268-Digital-Manual-Multimeter/dp/B0050LVFS0/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1406872598&sr=8-7&keywords=voltmeter

I don't have any experience with the machine you list. But if it were up to me, I'd get the Griot's. They're a known entity, have a great warranty, and they're on sale on Amazon.ca. The polisher alone is $180, but the kit is only $220 and comes with two pads, detailer, compound, wax, and a clay bar. The only issue is that the Griot's comes with a 6" backing pad and it's generally recommended to get a 5" backing plate and pads.

I spent ~$13 on a Bluetooth adapter from amazon and it has worked great!

Here's the one I use:

Foseal Bluetooth OBD2 OBD Scanner Check Engine Light OBDii Bluetooth Car Diagnostic Scan Tool for Android Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T5G53ZM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PYLIAbY3N8HYE

It's pretty cheap, and it works well with my r56.

This is the best answer, so I'm just tagging on to say that there's a cheap tool to tell you how much water there's in your coolant.

https://www.amazon.com/Prestone-AF-1420-Antifreeze-Coolant-Tester/dp/B000BOA9RY

If you come across a tire that you can't put on with your hands, use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K (check your LBS first though)

Best $15 I ever spent

This is the "nuclear option" for really difficult tires: https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K/ref=pd_sim_468_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BZE8P13X5X94NM8JY176

I've never found soapy water to be much help, but talcum powder is sometimes effective.

If you don't want to spend as much, I bought this one

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01F0GVBWY?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

And it's worked perfectly without any issues whatsoever.

You might try something like this tool:

​

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-LIS65600-Broken-Remover-Engines/dp/B00267PZUK

​

I'm not sure that this particular tool is for the exact plugs you use, but thats what I would try and use.


Alternatively, if you can break the threads loose/if its not siezed in place, you may be able to slip a fuel line over the top of the spark plug, and use that to grab the plug and twist it out.

Just got one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050LVFS0/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00

It's been great so far.

A friendly reminder that just about any repair for any vehicle is available on youtube. Give your symptoms a google or post in /r/cartalk. Maybe pick up a cheap OBDII scanner.

I have zero training in person on how to fix cars. Everything I know came from youtube. I now do all of my own repairs. Even if you have to buy tools, the total cost comes out cheaper. When I started doing my own repair work, I didn't know the difference between an intake and a spark plug; if I can do it, you can do it.

For a present, I'd suggest the griots. Has a "lifetime" warranty, and is great for a first polisher.

For those who aren't aware you just need a bluetooth OBDII dongle to use the Torque/Torque Pro app with any android phone or tablet. For example, lots of folks find that this cheap one works great: http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-diagnostics-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS.

Similar IOS apps require a wifi rather than bluetooth dongle, such as this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B3K2X4M/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687602&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00AOIM2CC&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0R28R3007FHNY5Q2RS73

I bought this one

GXG-1987 WiFi Wireless OBD-II Mini OBD2 Auto Car Diagnostic Scanner Tool Adapter Reader Scan Code Tester for iPhone 6S 5 iPad4 iPod mini iOS PC Windows, Android Device https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B3K2X4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_Sm5Izb3NJ563T

Works great with my 2014 Five.

For apps I use the Carista app. And the DashCommand app.

Carista OB2 reader

This is the only way I know how.
This little thingy lets you do all sorts of awesome settings you can’t get to in the head unit

My hobby whenever someone is about to mention the Marathon Plus is always to warn the what a nightmare they are to put on, especially the 25 mm version:)

That being said, I run Marathon Plus on both my commuter bikes (currently testing out Gator Skins on my racer). I usually go around 3.500-4.000 km before the first flat at which point I often just replace it.

It's a very rough ride on those tyres, but I really appreciate the no flats aspect.

I have this tool in my arsenal to help me put the tyres back on.

You can get an ODB scanner dirt cheap on Amazon. It's 13 bucks and can save you a lot of money. With just YouTube and basic hand tools you can't get pretty far working on your own cars. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B011Q18D14/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1506661662&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=odb2+scanner&dpPl=1&dpID=51aoLjwYQFL&ref=plSrch

You're good on the kickstand, just roll the bike forward a few inches every few weeks so the tires are not always resting on the same spot all winter. Also, you can pick [this Black and Decker] (https://www.amazon.com/Decker-BM3B-Battery-Charger-Maintainer/dp/B0051D3MP6) tickle charger up for $20. If you don't have the $23 to spend to get a trickle charger, well you mentioned Christmas gifts. Ask for one and wait another 25 days.

For a casual user instead of Lisle can I save $10 by going with cheaper:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I40ZQWE/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0

For something small like that, I would def look into getting a power converter like this for your car, assuming you'll have one at your camp. Just hook up an extension cord and you're gucci

Amazon and eBay are full of knockoff ELM327 ones that work about the same. I've got this one, and it works fine but I don't like how far it sticks out from the ODB2 port. So this one might be better?

OBD scanners are super cheap now

http://www.amazon.com/OxGord-CAN-OBD-Scanner-Tool/dp/B011Q18D14/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1459128073&sr=1-1&keywords=obd+scanner

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K

Just order it now. I don't have a lot of hand strength. I literally carry one in my bike bag with the rest of my flat repair tools.

The thing is, if you're going to start buying extremely puncture-resistant tires from Schwalbe . . . well, those are about the bitchiest tires to get on, period. Like Greenguards (Marathons), Marathon Plus, Mondials, and most of the really puncture resistant Schwalbe tires can be a nightmare to get on.

This is a dumb question, but you've checked to make sure these aren't pinch flats, right?

A cheap obd ii scanner only costs $15 on amazon https://www.amazon.com/Oxgord-Scanner-Engine-Diagnostics-Direct/dp/B011Q18D14/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473974197&sr=8-1&keywords=odb+reader

That's more expensive that free, but its not a bad thing to have in a car.

Yes, if it says its low, water is fine. Just make sure you get the mix right when you go to replace it.

https://www.amazon.com/Prestone-AF-1420-Antifreeze-Coolant-Tester/dp/B000BOA9RY

You can look into these pads instead:

Chemical Guys BUFX_102HEX5 - Hex-Logic Medium-Heavy Cutting Pad, Orange

Chemical Guys BUFX_106HEX5 - Hex-Logic Finishing Pad, Black

Chemical Guys BUFX_104HEX5 - Hex-Logic Light-Medium Polishing Pad, White

Colors are not the same across brands, but these Hex-Logic are the same.

Multiple pads are used when your pad gets full of product or too dirty. You can clean them, but this slows you down and sometimes I feel safer using a newer (fully cleaned) pad. I often use 2 pads for compounding and 2 pads for polishing.

The screwdriver in the picture does not follow the standard, it's special

If you want a large selection of bits, you need to go with with the standard. The current standard is 1/4 inch hex

Here are some examples

http://www.amazon.com/Felo-0715732348-4-Inch-Holder-Screwdriver/dp/B000E62NHS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451609355&sr=8-1&keywords=1%2F4+hex+screwdriver

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-100-Piece-Security-Bits-Storage/dp/B000O5XDOG/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1451609394&sr=8-6&keywords=screwdriver+bit+set

Make sure you have adequate coolant protection before you ship it. You don't want it to freeze up and break something. You can pick one of these coolant testers up at any parts store but if you haven't changed the coolant lately then you should do so.

Your smoke may be a heater core as others have suggested. For the little bit of running they need to do to ship it you should be fine but if you're worried you can easily bypass the heater core for now. Just loop the heater hose from one connector on the engine to the other or pickup a bypass kit at the parts store.

> how and where do you get the car registered?

If you're in the US, you phone the local DMV and ask them how to register the car. You probably go to an office, write a cheque, fill out forms, prove that you didn't steal it, and then get registration.

If not, you text a car-savvy relative and ask them who you contact.

> How do you know when something is broken, and how do you fix/handle that?

You suspect that something is broken if a dashboard light comes on or if the car makes a motion or sound that it didn't used to. Then you Google it, watch some YouTube, read the car's manual, and maybe take it to a mechanic. For most newish cars you can also plug one of these things into a port under the dashboard, pair it with an app on your phone, and listen to the computer telling you what it thinks is wrong with itself.

> How do you choose a mechanic that isn't awful?

I dunno... Ask your friends, and read online reviews? How do you choose, like, a doctor or a lawyer?


> What are the basic parts under the hood, and what do they do?

Depends on the car. Depends on if it's gas or diesel. Probably best to Google your exact model of car once you've picked one.

> What sort of insurance coverage should I get?

If you're in the US, your state probably has a legally mandated minimum amount of insurance. If not, uh, ask someone car-savvy whom you trust.

> Etc.

• Read your car's manual (or download a pdf if it didn't come with one) to find out about its routine maintenance schedule. Fluids and stuff need to be changed every so-many miles or years, and the specs depend on the model of car.
  
  
• Check your lights, and use a mirror or friend to check that your brake lights work.
  
  
• Check the oil and tyre pressure every week if you drive a lot, every month if you don't.
  
  
• If you haven't committed to a particular model of car, look at this
  
  
• Before you actually purchase a certain car from a certain year, Google around to see if it has a common failure mode. Like Honda Fits are generally great but the 2007 ones have a problem with one of the seals around the door leaking so rain gets in your car.
  
  
• Take someone car-competent with you when you test drive.

I have just put together a system for a remote barn on my property. It may be overkill for what you are trying to accomplish, but thought it might help.

• 30W Solar Panel
  
• MC4 Cable Connectors
  
• Charge Controller
  
• 12v LED Flood Lights
  
  This is connected to a 12v deep cycle marine battery that you an find at NAPA.
  
  Depending on frequency of use, you may be able to get away with a lower wattage solar panel, or, if it is rarely used, scrap the solar components all together and just lug the battery back to your house once a month a stick it on a trickle charger.

There still around. I have one.

https://www.amazon.com/Prestone-AF-1420-Antifreeze-Coolant-Tester/dp/B000BOA9RY

Amazon calls the coolant testers, but they used to be called something else. Like a hydrometer, though I know that isn't the name of these things.

I have it working with my 1997 7.3l and this adapter. I'm sure it works with others, but I know for a fact that this one works. (And it's only $11USD)



Make sure you add the Custom PIDs for the Powerstroke.

12v outlout > Inverter or equiv > universal cell battery charger or equiv > your spare battery

Or 12v USB adapter for car + THIS.

FYI all i typed was i747 battery charger into amazon.

Adding to this, here is a $12 bit set that has the bit you will need. In my opinion it is smarter to just but the right bit rather than go through the hassle of drilling it out


Neiko 100-Piece Security Bits Set with Hard Storage Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O5XDOG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_pFs9wbECN5NHH

Use one of these, makes way easier and cleaner.

Getcha one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/ELM327-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner-Scantool/dp/B0051CAE1C

And this app:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque&hl=en

I don't know the iPhone equivalent but I'm sure there is one.

App was $5 when I bought it so you're looking at an outlay of about $20.

Being a former VW owner myself...you're going to want to spend this money.

2004 through 2008 F-150 5.4 liters have the retarded spark plug design, and I usually recommend replacing them every 70k miles, and installing new plugs with anti-seize applied around the electrode/sleeve.

It is possible to remove them without breaking if you perform a fuel Injector flush (special dealership service using jungle juice and a canister to provide you're own fuel pressure) and change then right afterward while the engine is still semi-warm.

However if you are doing it in your driveway without such services, they will likely break and a special tool is needed for removing the remaining piece of spark plug.

Works very well, but you'll want to move some components aside to give yourself some room for the more rearward cylinders:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00267PZUK?pc_redir=1406368882&robot_redir=1

It's the Griot's Garage one from the wiki. I got the one with the longer cord and I also got a 5" backing plate from amazon as well.

Links to both:
Polisher
Backing Plate

You could buy a coolant tester and see where it sits, then syphon off some and replace with coolant until it is what you are looking for. They are pretty cheap, here is an example:

Amazon linky

You can get a set to get them open on Amazon. I recommend this set. I keep it with me in my backpack, and it's come in...handy.

If they're absolutely impossible to install, get a Tire Bead Jack. It's often the only thing that will work, and you'll save your thumbs in the process.

Forsee this in your future....
Astro Pneumatic Tool 1442 13" Hand Rivet Nut Setter Kit - Metric & SAE W/ 60pc Rivnuts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TODXQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3EpADb59QG8P4

Rivnuts, Astro Pneumatic Tool 1442 Nut/Thread Setting Hand Riveter Kit, 13-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TODXQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5ZXYzb1S8Z4Y7

Get your own scanner or borrow one from a friend and check the codes

https://www.amazon.com/OBD2-Scanner-OBDII-Code-Reader/dp/B011Q18D14/ref=sr_1_7?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1504576697&sr=1-7&keywords=obd2+scanner

It could be many things.

Sure!

Foam Applicator 1

Foam Applicator 2

Microfiber Applicator these also come in packs of two

So much easier just to use this tool https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01I40ZQWE/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1494689437&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=coolant+bleeder&dpPl=1&dpID=41IHCadLjXL&ref=plSrch

BLACK+DECKER BDCS20C 4-Volt MAX Lithium-Ion Cordless Rechargeable Screwdriver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TM2T9C2?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Neiko 10048A Security Bit Set, Chrome Vanadium Steel | 100-Piece Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O5XDOG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Good, Here is a good/simple OBDII reader.

https://www.amazon.com/Oxgord-Scanner-Engine-Diagnostics-Direct/dp/B011Q18D14/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1467576362&sr=8-4&keywords=obd2+reader

It’s only $20 and it’s needed. Either your local auto parts store will have it or you can buy it here.
https://www.amazon.com/EPAuto-Radiator-Coolant-Filling-Funnel/dp/B01I40ZQWE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?adgrpid=58764058049&gclid=CjwKCAjwkenqBRBgEiwA-bZVtoEqNRMEjUMWBL3GbW3-C_nYD-uuJ0ZfgihAUCwsOXsoV5PrcRgX8hoCOrYQAvD_BwE&hvadid=274667037306&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9027658&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=2507075615956579707&hvtargid=aud-647006051489%3Akwd-310149416043&hydadcr=25614_9900508&keywords=burp+funnel&qid=1566234999&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzMEVTS0dXSFRLT0FXJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzA4OTIzMUFTSDUwNVJaSFY1NyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNTAxMzU4WlgzTEZZMFEwVDFCJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfc2VhcmNoX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Even if your car comes with a bleeder valve I highly recommend using the method in the video with a burp funnel.

Would something like this work? You would have to plug it into the car and have the car running.

Thx for the info guys, I was actually thinking of this: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00YVHGTBM?psc=1

Anyone tried it?

It cost me around $50-$60 I think. I used this camera and I used this OBD2 adapter. I also needed some small connectors to plug the video wire into the back of the head unit (these things).

I used this thread by /u/brbauer2 as a guide, which was very helpful.

It was kind of difficult, but mostly because I don't really have much experience with the wiring stuff so I went slow to make sure I didn't mess up any splices or anything. I also initially put the wrong wire into the back of the head unit, so I had to take it back apart and use the right wire (the thread I used shows a red wire in the back of the head unit connector, its actually the yellow wire from the video cable that you want) but that only took maybe an additional 30 minutes.

Overall, I'd say go for it if you're interested!

Sounds like antifreeze. If you want to see what the specific gravity (coolant to water ratio) go get one of these from a local parts store.

This will make your life easier: http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-80546-8-Inch-6-Inch-Swivel/dp/B0014ZVSVK/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi

This tool makes mounting tires much easier:

http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K

I may recommend trying to grab a Var Tire lever if you an find one. They make changing tires with frozen beads a bit easier. Alternatively, there is the Kool Stop Tire Jack.

This is all dependent on how tight your tire to rim sizing is. If it's super lose, ignore this.

This is good advice, if you still have issues, deflate the tube a bit. If that still doesn't work, one of these are totally a lifesaver for the extremely stubborn combinations: Kool Stop Tire Bead Jack

pick this up and make your life easier.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TODXQW

For a MBP you’ll want to use a power inverter , something like this one. I think the 15” MBP has a 87w charger so you’ll just need one that provides in the 100w+ range.