(Part 3) Reddit mentions: The best industrial & scientific

> Thanks in advance for answering my questions.

• How long have you had your Flashforge, and how much have you printed on it?
  
  I purchased it last August. (781 hours logged) It's almost litterly been printing out of the box since day one. The only issue I had out of the box is that the one screw on the build plate got bent as a result of the 2 free spools bouncing into it. I ordered a box of them from McMaster and had it fixed by the end of the week. I contacted Lisa on their google chat form and from what I understand, they now come with the screw as a result of my support ticket. This was an annoyance yes, but I've had more issues with my reprap and that costed me more than this pritner when I bought it. (I originally had a Makergear Prusa)
  
  
• What do you like the most and the least about this printer?
  
  Most: I love the fact that it prints 100% of the times I try to print something. I rarely, and I mean RARELY have a failed print. I love that I can hit print before I go to bed and wake up to a completed part in the morning.
  
  Least: This is small, and it took a while but I have since out grown the build platform (9x6x6 inches). I recently ordred an 8x12 plate from McMaster and that arrives on monday and we'll see how that works. (PSA this requires removing one of the extruders - if you want more info on this let me know)
  
  
• Have you printed with ABS?
  
  Yes, no issues. Just close up the printer with the included panels.
  
  
• If so, did you experience any problems such as curling?
  
  No, I use a glass build plate and a thin coat of purple glue stick. I then spritz water on the plate before each print. I never have a sticking issue and I never have warpage. I personally prefer PLA though since Hatchbox has come to light and makes GREAT PLA
  
  
• Have you had any problems with the metal bed warping or with leveling the bed?
  
  Like I said just above, I use a glass build plate, so I haven't had any warpage issues with the bp. Leveling the bed is a bit of a challenge but I'm fussy about it and I want it within 0.0005 or less so it takes me a while. The reason I'm fussy is because I've only had to level the bed 2 or 3 times since owning it.
  
  The first was when I got it
  
  The second was when I added the glass build plate
  
  The third was when I removed one extruder and added an aluminum carriage.
  
  That's it. It never lost it's level and it's gone through 3 moves (like I moved apartment to apartment)
  
  
• Finally, how is the customer service or community support for this printer? Thanks again!
  
  The only experience I had was with that screw initially. I contacted Lisa on their Google Chat forum and she handled it mostly. Sadly, it wasn't as 'perfect' as I wanted since their solution was to send the printer back instead of sending me a new screw. Never the less, they did try to help on the matter and told me how I could go about getting money for the screw if I so desired. In the long run, it's a screw and I just ordered them from McMaster. I have zero regrets from it and I think I know my printer a bit beter because of it.
  
  single extruder carriage (PSA: their single extruder block is not FF compatible.
  
  My Thingiverse for example prints
  
  Some things I would buy shortly after getting the printer:
  
  Spare Extruder fan : I tend to slip and put a screw drive in the path of this, shattering the blades. If you're a clutz like me, get it. I've needed 4 so far. ::hangs head in shame::
  
  Glass Build Plate : Best purchase I've made for my FF. Works great, easy to install and use. Also get thermal sheets and purple elmers glue, and print the spacer found on my Thingiverse page under "Flashforge Upgrades". Also get a spatula, and dikes
  
  Simplify3D : A lot people tend to spend $X,XXX on a printer and then try to use free software with it and complain when it doesn't print right. To me that's like buying a car without tires. A Corvette ain't shit without a decent set of tires. It's kind of pricy compared to free, I know, but at real CAM programs (which is what this basically is) cost $8,000 or more. It truely is a great printer program and I wish I had purchased it much MUCH sooner than I had.
  
  Last and most importantly, get the an active cooling fan. I originally printed this, and purchased a 12v power supply and added some fans to it. I have since moved on to the offical one from FF. It's not as good but I haven't really ran into an issue. If I had to print from my right extruder, it would be an issue though. What I liked about it, is that it's a plug and play added on. No "modifications" needed to added.
  
  TL;DR / Closing thoughts: I would buy this printer again in a heartbeat. ESPECIALLY if they came out with one similar to the Replicator 2 with the 11.9" build plate. Instead it looks like they went a different way judging by CES but oh well, there's always next year. Further more, I think this is a great entry level printer for someone looking to have a printer help with projects and not be one of them. That doesn't mean you can't mod it or upgrade or whatever, it just means you don't have to if you don't want to.
  
  
  Hope this helps and answers any questions you might have. Feel free to ask more though!
  

A comment I submitted in a different thread:

Awesome! I've had my pax over a year and I'm still loving it. It still hits like a champ and the cleaning is to me easier than its made out to be. The stealthiness of it amazing. I've told a bouncer its a portable battery or an ecig and gotten no questions. Just a heads up the very first time cooking a fresh bowl definitely smells like weed. All vaping smells some, but that first heating and first few hits are by far the strongest. After that is gets much less pungent. If I'm packing it at home before going to a venue I'm nervous about, I'll take the first 2-3 hits at home. Out of a full oven I can get 3-6 good sessions with stirring, depending on the weed and people.

Here's a couple tips I've picked up.

Be careful of the mouthpiece spring. It's deceptively strong and will launch your mouthpiece to dark places. Also, when pushing down the mouthpiece to lock it, the "sweet spot" is juuuuust before all the way down. It's hard to explain. But you can actually push the mouthpiece down too far and it won't always lock. My first time using it I was pissed because it wasn't locking. But I was pushing it too hard and past the lock point. Pushing it down lighter was the answer.

Dental brushes dipped in alcohol work great for scrubbing out the oven and mouthpiece and can be purchased at any store/pharmacy. The lube is food grade propylene glycol and can be purchased at certain stores or online for cheap. Such as http://www.amazon.com/Propylene-Glycol-Pint-Free-Shipping/dp/B005F5KYM4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1418272765&sr=8-3&keywords=propylene+glycol. Rub a few drops on/inside the mouthpiece tube every time you clean it to keep it from sticking.

When you're cleaning it be careful of getting the temp change button wet. If it gets wet, it will think it's on and the oven will start heating. That sucks if you are cleaning it and don't notice.

I've found its better to Charge the pax right side up with the charger on top. It helps makes sure that no resin leaks up the tube and is more stable.

If you rotate it on its long axis (doing a barrel roll) 3 times, it enters party mode and the front light flashes. This means it won't stop heating if it's kept still. Normally if it's kept still for a few seconds it goes "idle" and stops heating. The flashing light also looks pretty cool. You can also play Simon says against your pax by turning it on its long axis 7 times I think. YouTube has a good pax Simon says video with the steps. Both tricks are great when showing your pax to friends.

Listen: this time I am going to help you out but please understand much of this hobby is learning to do stuff for yourself. There is a ton of problem solving based on intuition, ability to search for others solutions, and taking shit apart. You will not have very much fun if you aren't willing to put in the work.

For the time being just fold up pieces of paper to shim the feet. You really need a carpenters square and a line level to make sure everything is square.

Start with the table. If the surface you are trying to level your system on isn't level then leveling the system is going to be impossible. You want gravity to help you not hurt you.

[Here] (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1653631) is the link for z braces.

I also highly recommend [this mod] (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1454073)

Once those are installed and properly calibrated then everything on the frame should be square.

Next step is to get have you system properly trammed. That is essentially leveling the build plate to the extruder. With the pressed sheet metal plate on there it cannot be done properly. You need to get a much thicker aluminum carriage. Somebody else in this thread already offered to sell you one. I for one am a big fan of supporting the maker community and think you should take him up on that offer as the same thing online costs about the same amount.

Here are the tools you need to be successful in this endeavor. A proper magnetic line level. I got mine at harbor freight for a few dollars. A carpenter's square the bigger the better IMO about 1 foot on each side. And a good pair of calipers. The calipers are the most expensive tool on this list but you don't need top of the line Mitotuyos. At work we have the Mits but at home I use [these.] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AQEZ2W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

If you are willing to put the time in this hobby is great, very informative, and useful for all times of machining in the future.

Good luck I wish you well.

I have a Maker select. It's my first and only 3D printer so my review compared to others is unreliable.

Here's a copy/paste of a review I did on it about a month ago. It's long but detailed with links:

I will give you my background before my opinions. As everyone has different goals, opinions, and experiences.

I got my printer near the end March of this year. I have something like 2500m of filament run though it, and no idea how much print time.

When I received my printer, my test prints failed and I was pissed. But this community helped improve my Cura settings and started producing usable parts. I then went nuts and printed out a BUNCH of mods. This is by far my most favorite thing. There's always something I can print to improve the quality of the prints.

THe down side is I went too far and got to a point where I couldn't produce anything of quality. So, 2 weeks of tweeking and researching later I'm printing in PETG with beautiful quality and very minimal visible layers.

My most recent project in PETG:
http://i.imgur.com/sVf7S2D.jpg?1

So, now to answer your question...

> How do you like your Maker Select?

I love it. It allowed me to buy a cheaper printer (One of the cheapest at the time @ $350) that produced amazing results. It also has upgrades you can purchase or print to improve the quality, so investing smaller amounts over time to make it better and better. I highly recommend it to anyone who is starting because it does require tweaking which forces you to learn and understand how exactly 3d printers work. A major plus was that this community has a lot of Maker Select users for support, which was a MAJOR plus for me.


As of today, I've purchased the following upgrades:

• IKEA enclosure - $115
  
• LEDs for Inside enclosure - $25
  
• MK-9/10 Extruder Gear - $9
  
• Micro Swiss All Metal hot End - $50
  
• Micro Swiss Lever - $18 (Totally not necessary, but Micro Swiss's support was AMAZING to deal with, and I wanted to support them so I purchased this as well.
  
• Misc. M3 and M4 Screws, etc. - ~$25 in total between Amazon Orders and Lowe's for things needed for mods.
  
• New 40mm fan because I broke the blade on the one I had. There are cheaper ones than this. - $14
  
• 50mm blower fan - $8
  
  So, in the last ~3 months I've spent an additional $264... Oh god, don't tell my wife! All are totally not necessary, mind you. The only thing I'd 100% recommend you do are print out the following to mods:
  
  DiiiCooler along with buying the 50mm blower fan. There are cheaper options out there, I just wanted it faster so I bought it through Amazon to get free 2 day shipping.
  
  z-Brace - This is key, and will run you maybe $15 worst case scenario to get enough M4 screws and the threaded rods.
  
  Edit: Forgot a couple more things I bought.
  
  
• Lowe's glass - $4 for 2 pieces of 7.9"x7.9" glass
  
• Borosilicate Glass - $12 - Amazing adheasing with PLA and ABS. Don't use it right now, though because I'm printing in PETG and I read on here that PETG eats borosilicate glass.
  
• Lithium Grease - $7. When I changed my bearing blocks, I had issues with sticking so I purchased some of this to help smoothing out the bearing movement on the polished rods.
  
• 3D print removal tool - $5. Printer comes with a larger scraper, but I needed something a bit more fine (thin) and this thing is perfect.
  
• Spare bearings - $13 because I broke one of them when swapping to 3d Printed bearing blocks.
  
• Digital Calipers - $18
  
  That's another $59, so $323... I have a problem. again, 95% of this is NOT NECESSARY. I'm just addicted to modding.
  
  

just to expand on my other post because I didn't have all the links at the time. Hopefully this helps others too. Feel free to add to this if there are better solutions than these.

MeanWell RT-65B power supply keep in mind that the -12v rail is only good for 500ma. check your modules in modular grid to make sure you don't need more than one of these power supplies. it's super easy to wire the power supply to a busboard but if you don't feel comfortable doing it you'll have to get something like a Zeus power supply.

Vector rails TS-600 is the best value if you are building a large case or want to build more later or if you want to sell your leftovers on Reverb or whatever. You can use these screws to attach the vector rails to the case or the spacer strips.

Rail nuts these are the square nuts that slide into the rails (only for vector rails) they require M2.5 screws 6mm is a good length unless you have some thick acrylic panels on your modules or something like that. you can alternatively use threaded strips but they will cost a little more and I'm not a fan. Not all modules have their panel holes in the appropriate place and sometimes it causes a problem because the threaded insert holes are fixed in one place.

Panel mount plug w fuse you'll need to do a little wiring on this one. match the fuse value to the power supply overall amp draw. Don't go too much over. the fuse is supposed to blow if too many amps go through the case. Having too large value of fuse defeats the purpose.

I like this busboard and they also have the cheapest (Warning! see edit) 3U sideplates although I don't see why you can make your own or maybe even go without them. MDLRCASE actually has some great values on the larger cases too if you decide not to DIY. If you are in the USA shipping is quite an expense though.EDIT: the 3U side plates do not work for vector rails, they are the wrong spacing. They only work for the rails which they sell which are different. So, if you are using vector rails, don't buy these. The busboards are still cool)

If you decide to go for the flying bus cable

build notes:

Each 3U (height of one eurorack space) is approximately 5.25" (133.35mm) but the modules are mostly less than 130mm tall. so you can build the height of a 3U rack so the the interior dimension from wood to wood is 5 1/4" exactly and you'll be fine.

Don't cut wood until you have your rails and spacers or at least rails and a blank panel or module installed so that you will know the exact width you will need for the rails.

Be aware of the depth of your modules and factor the space for the power supply and busboard. don't make the case too shallow or some modules may not fit. Modulargrid is your friend for this and the power draw.

There will be wall level voltage inside your case, so make sure you route those cables neat and secure them well. Cover them if possible and don't let stray screws and stuff fall in there. If they do, power off and get them out. Use blank panels to cover unused spaces. Obviously power off and unplug when installing modules.

I got my Ender 3 Pro about a month ago, performed some upgrades and ran into a few problems, but with some weird caveates.



I'm trying to print multiple miniatures on a single print, but seem to be getting a lot of oozing or stringing issues, but when I test with retraction tests, the test comes out perfect with identical settings. Additionally, when googling around, I couldn't find anything except for potentially a nozzle clog or potentially hydrated filament (possible, I'll test this later)

​

I've tested a few other prints as well, a benchy and a testcube, they print fine. Really curious about what's going on. Do I need to spread the prints out more, use different settings, or is it more of a mechanical issue?

​

I'd appreciate any help you guys have to recommend!

​

So, lets get down to it:

Printer: Creality Ender 3 Pro

Surface: Creality Glass surface

Upgrades: Aluminum extruder upgrade

Capricorn Tubing

New bed springs



In addition to these, I've tightened the X and Y bolts on the runners to reduce wobble -- there's no more wobble, maybe they're too tight? I don't think so, I've had good prints with these settings, but not with a few things.



Settings:

Basically the same as the "normal" settings for the Ender 3 on Cura 4.0.0

But in addition: (And what I think may be important is bolded)

adhesion_type = raft

layer_height = 0.12

support_tree_enable = True

support_type = buildplate

brim_outside_only = False

fill_outline_gaps = True

infill_pattern = cubic

infill_sparse_density = 25

material_final_print_temperature = 180

material_initial_print_temperature = 180

material_print_temperature = 185

optimize_wall_printing_order = True

raft_margin = 10

retraction_amount = 7.5

retraction_speed = 20

speed_print = 30

support_angle = 40

support_conical_enabled = True

support_infill_rate = 50

support_interface_enable = True

support_pattern = lines

** NOTE ** Standard supports are turned off, I'm using the tree supports

support_tree_collision_resolution = 0.15

travel_avoid_supports = True

travel_compensate_overlapping_walls_enabled = False

wall_thickness = 1.2

Hey! I love the purple pax! The only accessories I use are rubbing alcohol, cotton pipe cleaners, and alcohol wipes. Oh, and lubricant. I did an Internet search for the lubricant, it's propylene glycol. I found a pint of it on amazon for $8. (That will last forever.)

http://www.amazon.com/Propylene-Glycol-Pint-Free-Shipping/dp/B005F5KYM4

Here is a video on how to apply the lubricant. I tend to lube it after every cleaning.

http://youtu.be/W6-IcN6segw

Every pax comes with a small amount of cleaning supplies, but they really didn't last long for me. Cleaning is a little tedious, but it vapes so much more easily when it's clean. Here is a good video about how to clean it.

http://youtu.be/Cowj6W1qxjQ

I find that 10 days is the absolute longest I can go without cleaning it, and that's with daily use. And honestly, I should probably tend to it more like once a week.

Regarding cute accessories, there are some really cute pouches for Pax on etsy!

https://www.etsy.com/market/pax_vaporizer_case

Good luck with whatever you decide to go with! :) sorry for all the links, I'm on my ipad and watching The World's End and can't bring myself to do proper formatting right now) ;)

It sucks basically. I'm not sure about the registration part, but I think that's if you haven't already bought tickets online and dpn't have your paperwork/passes, etc ready to go.

You definitely want a cart if you have a tower, the first year me and my friends went we finagled my local friend dropping us off and we stayed with his comp at the center (I think that's how that went down, lots of alcohol since and during) and we got an XL Uber to get back home when we were ready to leave the BYOC.

FYI, when we left late at night the main entrances to the convention center were closed, so we had to go out another exit... Down stairs.... That was fun.

Second year was more of the same except I bought a laptop for QuakeCon and this kind of stuff so it was less stressful than lugging a tower and monitor around, but basically you've gotta huff your stuff in someway or another.

I remember sitting out waiting for our turn into the fried chicken place nearby (it's good check it out) and a poor guy was walking down the street carrying a monitor, that's no bueno, you wanna get an uber, a ride or something, just so they can pull up and drop you off at the best entrance.

So yes, get a cart like this like I've used:

https://www.amazon.com/Magna-Personal-Capacity-Aluminum-Folding/dp/B000HVVSDU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1527810216&sr=8-1&keywords=magna+cart

And plan to have a way to drop you off at the entrance, I for sure didn't want to wheel my tower through the Austin streets and hope nothing pops loose, etc, and breaks on the way.

edit: well from what someone else has said it appears the badges weren't mailed this year, so if I were you I'd plan to get in line for registration with your computer, get your badge, then go on to the BYOC from there. If they do it like QuakeCon does, someone will come down the line and give people tags and stuff for their computers to streamline the process. Good luck!

1.) I would advise not using glue on the table top, but instead screws. Your table top will get dinged up over time. If you glue it, it will be hard to replace the top. But if you use screws. It will just be as easy as removing the screws, remove the top, and screw on the new one.

2.) For your router lift. May look at something like StumpyNubs' Design. This may be more secure than using a scissor jack that your plans call for.

3.) Beef up your legs, 2x4s are fine, but if you place two 2x4s together, than your legs are going to be more sturdy, or switch to just straight up 4x4s. Nevermind, looking at your plans again, I see you have done that.

4.) Look at using plywood that already has a finish on it, like Melamine, this will make the wood coming off the tablesaw, or across the router easier to slide. Otherwise, you will want to wax your outfeed table at least every other month or so, depending on storage and use.

5.) You also want to make sure that you include the ability to use a fence on the router side. Either a custom built one or look at some aftermarket fences.

6.) Make sure to shorten the legs enough so you can add in casters, ideally something like these. It will make moving the bench around easier.

7.) You will want to place runners under your bottom shelf to help support weight.

I run a campus makerspace with three MakerBots, and I feel your pain. It's been a year since we got them, and we've only just NOW (read: within the last month) figured out how to cut down on about 95% of the warping. Lots of the solutions here seem like they come from folks who aren't too familiar with MakerBot printers and the true shittiness of the flex build plate grip surface. For reference, our machines are used by a campus of about 10,000 students, so the machines are running 9 hours a day, every day.

First, I'd agree with some of the folks on here about throwing the machine out the window. If you're within the 30-day return window, return yours. They are absolute garbage, and if it wasn't for the $250 restocking fee that MakerBot charges after that 30 days, I'd return my three MakerBots in a heartbeat. Both the extruders and the build plates for the Replicator+ are truly awful. The proprietary MakerBot Print software leaves very little in the way of customization, so you can't really expect to even modify some of the slicer settings to test out what some of the folks in here are suggesting. At any rate, you should still print with a raft, because of the lack of a heated build plate.

MakerBot Customer Support, in their infinite wisdom, will typically recommend the following things over and over. I've spent more hours on the phone with them than hours at my job, and I'll preface this by saying none of their solutions worked in the long-term for any of our machines:

1. Blue painters tape is the go-to proposed solution by lots of folks. Don't bother, it just peels off as the plastic cools and shrinks. Likewise it scratches so easily, you end up replacing it weekly. In the specific case of MakerBot Replicator+ beds, blue painters tape doesn't stick for very long to the intentionally rough buildtak surface of the build plate, as opposed to with other smooth glass or PEI build plates.
   
2. Wiping build plates with isopropyl alcohol between prints to get rid of fingerprints and dirt. Never had a positive effect on our printed part quality.
   
3. Using helper disks is the solution most often suggested by MakerBot Support. Helper disks (referred to by someone here as "mouse ears") just warp off as the print warps, and pull the print up with them. They never worked for us, and did little to prevent warping or curling, even if we placed upwards of eight helper disks around the model.
   
4. Adjusting orientation to minimize surface area sticking to the build plate. On your model, try rotating it so the slimmest edge sits on the plate itself to create less surface area touching the flex build plate itself. This actually sort of works, but not consistently. Sometimes, it's not an ideal solution if propping up the model on a long edge creates tons of new supports.
   
5. Manually adjusting the z-offset height to be closer to build plate. This one, like adjusting the orientation, helped slightly but not in the long run. You're basically smushing more filament into the build plate if you lower the nozzle, which might help. But be careful not to scratch your build plate. Move down in small increments at a time and test.
   
6. Adjusting initial temperatures and slowing down the initial raft and first layer, and turning off the fan for the first few layers is another solution. Not a bad habit to get into, even if it doesn't work with MakerBot printers. Set the initial fan speed from 100% to 0%.
   
7. Avoiding twisting the flex build plates at all, in order to prevent hard-to-detect warping effects. These plates were supposed to be a novel, flexible way to remove printed parts but they have a tendency become permanently warped over time, leading to uneven build plate surfaces. Instead, use a spatula carefully and don't put too much force at all on the build plate.
   
8. Replacing the build plate entirely. A manager at MakerBot admitted over the phone that they ended up having no idea that the flex build plates were so bad, and warped so readily, and he said that they were slowly learning that the build plates were essentially a "consumable" just like filament. Meaning you can expect that if you're twisting them (even a little) to remove prints, you'll be replacing that flex build plate regularly. Another gold star for the MakerBot equipment quality control department.
   
   
   Now, the solution that worked miracles: try buying gaffer's tape. Another redditor recommended it, and we purchased this gaffer's tape. Since then, not a single print has failed due to warping issues. We can spread objects across the build plate with little regard for orientation or arrangement without much issue. Granted, on extremely large prints that take up the entire print volume, we might see a slight (maybe 5% at the corner, warping up about 1 or 2mm from the plate) warping issue, but it's nearly perfect compared to before. The same gaffer's tape strips I placed down for the very first test at the beginning of April are still sitting without a scratch on the build plates, so you can bet it doesn't peel or get scratched up easily either.
   
   I can't understate the amazing value of gaffer's tape.

I'm a big fan of PSS, and they had a big part in motivating me to actually lose weight, but I didn't want to go to a plant-based diet like them, and I'd learned by that point that calories were really all that mattered, so I didn't read Presto. I am interested to read Ray's book though, if it ever gets published. I know others have already told you, but it really doesn't matter a lot when or how you get your calories, just how many you consume per day vs. how many you burn. I lost weight in the past on Body For Life, which also involved exercising 6 days per week and eating 5-6 small meals per day. It worked, but it wasn't a sustainable lifestyle for me long term, and after successfully reaching 200 pounds, I gained weight over the next 9 years until I was 290. This time around, I wanted to lose in a way that represented a realistic way for me to eat long term. And it's worked. It sounds like you're on board with that advice. Just focus on how many calories you eat overall (MyFitnessPal is helpful with that) and how many you burn (I use a Fitbit with heart rate monitor, but www.tdeecalculator.net can give you a starting point.)

As for body fat, I recommend getting a set of cheap calipers. I use these for $6.29. It's not perfect, and it takes some time to get your technique down to something consistent. Personally, I measure myself weekly, using a 3 site formula, and I measure each site 5 times and take the average. I still am not convinced that the number I get is accurate, but it seems to reliably show improvements week over week. What I mean by that is I don't know if I'm 15% or 17%, but I am confident that I was 2% higher a month ago. As long as my skin fold measurements are dropping, I know I'm losing fat.

I've done no weight training and not a ton of cardio during my weight loss. It's been almost entirely diet. Still, I haven't lost much lean mass, and it looks like I'll hit my body fat goals at a higher weight than expected. If I decide to work out more later, I definitely won't be doing it at the intensity you are. I'm not an expert, but my (limited) experience and what I've read tell me that, at least as a beginner, you can get most of the benefit out of only a few intense workouts. When lifting, you should be working a muscle group just about to failure, then giving it several days to recover before working it again. Even on cardio, I seem to improve my performance faster if I do high intensity interval work, then allow 3-5 days for recovery. If your goal is just calorie burn, then heavy volume is probably fine for that, but I'd rather eat a little less and just work out hard 1-2x/week, with maybe some walking or light bicycling another day or two.

That's my workout approach, which doesn't mean it's best for everyone. But, whatever approach you take, consider what is sustainable for the long term. You can follow a strict, aggressive plan, and it will work, but if you just quit and go back to your "normal" diet and lifestyle when your done, you'll just put the weight back on like I did. Give some thought to what you will do after you reach your goal, and then consider if you might want to transition to that now if you find your current workout volume overwhelming.

A lame humor response I suppose....never mind. I was only suggesting this nice servo as the ultimate pipe hitter. "Fucking around" means to me buying only a slightly better servo than you currently have now while hoping that it will be enough. Then you get it and you wish that you had not wasted time and effort on it. Then you get a slightly better one again in the hopes of the same thing...so on and so forth. My attempt at a humorous reply was to quit fucking around with all that shit and get this "mean as hell" servo and be "done fucking around"

^

Does your BEC output 8.4 volts? If not, you won't be getting the most out of the KD1. It stands up to reason that you should not run a 7.4 volt servo on 8.4 volts if you want it last.

^

Now "spec shopping" can be problematic. People have been doing this forever with most all kinds of merchandise. Its Marketing. The problem here is determining a common metric among brands and lines within brands. Does a reliable metric among all servos exist? ?? Who says .08s/60 degrees and 347oz-in is even accurate? Are those readings for the whole arch? Will the servo be able to hit 347oz-in while 2/3s of the way into a rotation? Does it get hot and does the torque go down with rising heat? Perhaps the equipment used to make those measurements is off a bit to inflate the "specs"? I have so many questions here?? Marketing shenanigans have been going on as long as markets have existed. I like my KD1s because they work well for me. They have no equal in my opinion. I'm too old to jack around with marketing nonsense.

^

I have been playing with RC since 1986 and my "fucking around" days are long gone. Say I wanna build an RC model, I now only purchase enthusiast level products. The servo I mentioned is such a device. It is not cheap, but is anything high end cheap? Do you need a top end servo for your vehicle, probably not. Would you want one? Who wouldn't? Can you afford it? ??

^

My KD1s have amazing holding power. They absolutely stay where they're told through the arch. Its CPU is extremely capable and the coding for this servo is second to none. Now, its algorithms are optimized for heli cyclic duty, but this actually seems to me to translate to surface steering use very well.

^

I've never owned a Savox servo so I can not attest to their quality. As far as the Xpert being waterproof, I cannot say. It is a heli servo and flying a heli in the rain isn't likely a good idea. It also isn't advertised as waterproof. I've gotten my xpert servos wet ripping up dew covered grass and no issues so far ?? You can purchase a bottle of silicone conformal coating I waterproof circuit boards with this stuff all the time. Would it work on a servo? ??

^

Being concerned about this waterproof issue, an advertised as a "car" servo with claims of waterproof might be in order here. Brushless is indeed the new hotness in servos these days. Most higher end servos nowadays are "digital" too.

^

Perhaps instead of "spec shopping" utilize the gifts of modern technology and see what others have done. Don't reinvent the wheel here. As I'm sure you already know, online videos can be pretty nice for seeing what's out there. Better yet find a local RC club or track. Speak to the people there and ask what they have.

^

I used to ride the brand loyalty wagon all around. I was huge into Asian RC radios and servos. I never had a bad Hitec, Futaba, Airtronics, KO Propo or JR servo. I still have vehicles with those servos in them right now.

Improvements/add-ons

• Filament Roller Guide. You will thank yourself later to further prevent the filament from grooving an indentation where it feeds into your extruder. It utilizes bearings but its a fantastic design. I had mine for ~2 months when I started noticing the groove already being made.

• XT60 Connector clips - if you want a little "cable management"

• LCD Cable Clips - Also if you want a little "cable management". There is also an LCD Cover for the PCB to keep dust and whatnot out.

• Any fan covers you find that suit your style as you dont want filament going into the box in the bottom left (not entirely too sure what it holds).

>
>
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Physical Upgrades

• Upgrade the bed springs as my originals started to sag a little. Not exactly sure on what the technical name for those springs are but those are the ones I purchased and I have been happy with them.

• Borosilicate glass bed. I use to use the stock mat, tape method, and hairspray method. All of those worked for a little bit but were a complete pain and mess to deal with from time to time. All I do now is use some isopropyl alcohol and clean my glass bed every once in a while but past that I require NO adhesion for my bed outside of tiny pieces that require a brim, skirt or whatever support needed to keep it adhered. As long as your print bed is leveled as best as possible (have a nice filament "squish") you will have no issues.

• Some other things you could look into if you plan to print with other kinds of filament outside of PLA would be: Micro Swiss steel nozzle, Capricorn tubing and an upgraded extruder like the e3d. Keep it simple for right now though while you learn your rigs because I strongly feel no ender 3 works the same and my preference for which program (MatterHacker, Slic3r or Cura) depends on how I feel how the model appears and how its coming out. Also, grab yourself a handful of replacement nozzles if you continue to use the brass ones. They CAN wear out if you use the printer like crazy, so its always good to have spares (also can get a variety of sizes too - standard being the 0.1mm I believe?). I snagged a pack of 10 for $5-8.

>
>
>


Last but not least, run a few bed level test prints as well. The best one that I have found which helps me dial in my printing was CHEPs bed level STL file. Video & G-Code file. I use it religiously if I ever find that my bed is out of wack.



There are a handful of other mods/add-ons you can find on Thingiverse and another website (one which we arent allowed to link to unfortunately).

if you're new and you just want an easy kit:



field manual with pictures if you're really new to AR's something like this is super valuable to have.

Otis Cleaning Kit includes everything you need to clean it.



solvent You probably don't need a solvent on a new rifle but its damn handy to have around. this stuff is for ultra deep cleaning.



Lube Everyone has their favorite Lube, mine is ballistol, you can dump it on pretty much everything, and it makes it work together smoothly



scrapper for when your bolt carrier group gets all fuckered.



EDIT: almost forgot, you're def going to want one of these puppies too, a chamber brush


Cleaning tools usually come down to personal preference, cost, and how effective you can use them to keep your gun rust free and preforming well. I have had a great experience with all the tools i linked, and have used them to keep my AR 15 clean and functioning for a few thousand rounds. I think the largest benefit to this set up is that all these tools will easily fit inside of any range bag.



Have a good one and keep shooting!

I wanted to show off an arcade cabinet that my brother in-law and I built.

Imgur Gallery

We designed the cabinet in 3d to make sure everything would fit. Then cut out everything using a CNC router. We used wood glue and wood putty to put everything together. For the monitor we used a Dell 17" (we had lying around) mounted portrait. The guts of the arcade are

• Internal PC fans used for cooling. We did this because the monitor would get a little warm after playing. Plus it couldn't hurt. Not too loud either.
  
• Speakers are from an old kiosk that we were throwing away at work. I did look at some other solutions but since I already had them and they were powered, we decided on using them. It also helped that the size matched the PC fans so the hole pattern would look nice on the side
  
• Buttons and Joysticks were purchased from [Amazon].(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WDQWK5M/)
  
• We used a Raspberry Pi 3 purchased from Amazon.
  
• For power, we took a power strip and removed the plug and bought (this power socket)[https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/] from Amazon. Soldered the connections from the power strip to the power socket.
  
• Still waiting on the custom piece of tempered glass that will go on the top.
  
• It's got 2 coats of stain and a couple of coats of polyurethane to protect the wood.
  
  In all it took us a couple of weeks to design in 3D. My brother in-law did all this work. He also cut out everything and assembled the shell. I did all the internal wiring and software side of things. It is running RetroPie 4.0.2. The only really PITA is that this is a cocktail arcade. Most if not all the games needed a custom shader to correctly implement the rotation and dual flipped screens. A big shout out to hunterk from (libretro.com)[http://libretro.com] forums for helping me with this. It turns out that NES, SNES, Arcade, etc... needed their own shader to correctly display the image to both users. Also, the mame emulator has the ability on some 2 player games, to set cocktail mode. That way, when it is the 2 players turn, the screen auto rotates so they can play on their side.
  
  We were pretty impressed with ourselves when we finished. We built it to give away at a foundation raffle a couple of weeks ago and the winner was very excited to win it.
  
  I'll be glad to answer any questions you guys/girls have about the build. I plan on putting the glsl shaders on my github so others using the RetroPie OS in cocktail mode can use them.

I built this for about $20 (not including the erlenmeyer and the stir bar).

I got the cigar box a while back at a second hand store.

Here's the USB powered PC fan I used:
http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Mobile-Fan-External-Cooling/dp/B00080G0BK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1381376532&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+pc+fan

I chose a usb fan so that I could power it with an android usb phone charger and not screw around with splicing wires.

Here's the magnets I used (just needed one though):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B1M37MY/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Aside from that it just took a few odd nuts, washers, and a bit of superglue. I had to bore the hole in top of the cigar box because the box turned out to be a bit too thick (sorry Pepin Garcia!) to get enough attraction between the magnet and the stir bar. I think I might have had better luck with stronger magnets or a different stir bar but oh well.

As someone suggested I first glued a washer to the fan so that I could move the magnet around a but to find the sweet spot where it didn't shake too bad then I glued the washer in place.

I used the long bolts/nuts that came with the fan to attach it to the lid (you can see the bolts in the first picture). Between the top of the fan and the lid I had to add washers to keep the fan from rubbing on the cigar box.

That's pretty much it. The fan has a variable speed control but I get a small vortex on the lowest setting, and higher settings throws the bar off the magnet.

Now I just need to wait for my soda preforms to show up so I can start saving a bit more yeast after I use the stir plate!
http://www.amazon.com/Soda-Bottle-Preforms-Caps-30/dp/B008MB1QNY/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1381377304&sr=1-1&keywords=bottle+preforms

I got the idea for using the soda preforms from here:
http://www.mikebeer.net/reuseyeast.htm

Cheers

Congrats, just got mine 2 months ago.

SeeMeCNC forums are awesome. Start reading every new post.

Best upgrade I've done: PEI Bed

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013HKZTA
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7D5NQ

~$30 in upgrades; all my prints stick and pop off with ease. Also, the underside of every part is glassy and smooth. So good.

Buy "feeler gages" to assist with leveling the bed.

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Proto-J000AA-Master-Feeler/dp/B001HWDOK8/

My bed leveling process is kinda like this:

• Set the Z=0 spot, should be where you feel friction when pulling a single, blank piece of printer paper between the nozzle and print bed.
  
  
• Edit the radius of swing in the EEPROM settings per the instructions (I missed this the first time through).
  
  
• Setup and run the tower calibration script.
  
  
• Figure out what the gap is for the central point with the feeler gages; mine was between .006" and .007" (.006" fit, .007" didn't).
  
  
• Now use those "Go" and "No-Go" gages to check the three tower points.
  
  
• If you need to adjust all three towers in the same direction, change the EEPROM radius instead, 0.2 steps.
  
  
• Every few tower calibration runs, re-calibrate the Z=0 point. It will shift as you move screws and change EEPROM settings.
  
  Let's see, what else. If you can spare the cash, I moved to Simplify3d for all my slicing needs ($100~$150 for the license). Love it. If you can't afford it, maybe you'll find a way.
  
  Also, get ready to do a bajillion calibration runs. I mean it, don't be in a rush.
  
  Find a nice 20mm box off thingiverse or whatever, and you're gonna want to print that repeatedly while you dial in your settings. Once that's set, move on to the hollow pyramid, or the 5mm stairs.
  
  I seriously printed at least 20 of each of these while I dialed in my settings:
  
  
• Extrusion Multiplier
  
• Retraction Settings
  
• Speed
  
• Infill, Outline Overlap
  
• Printing temp
  
• etcetcetc
  
  ASAP, move over to PLA. Prints so much nicer for me than ABS.
  
  Oh, before you go to PLA, make sure you print 3x of the layer fans housings (not just 1x) and order up 2 more of the "squirrel cage" fans (centrifugal fans) from SeeMeCNC. edit: I spliced the single pair of layer-fan wires into three right at the connectors, I didn't bother running extra wire for them.
  
  Oh, and one other big improvement I made was putting connectors in-line with the hot-end and for all the fans. This way, if I have to replace a fan or upgrade the hot-end I don't have to cut and splice wires, I can just pop it off and connectorize another new one. Here are the connectors I used:
  
  
• Hot end, high-current lines
  
• Crimp tool
  
• 1 2 3 4 for the lower-current fan lines and thermistor lines.
  
  That was probably too much info -- just take your time and try not to get frustrated while you get things all set up. It is not a plug-'n-play object, it requires care and feeding.
  
  ... oh, and have fun! Whatcha gonna print?

So for a mobile workbench, consider these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SX3T2LO

Otherwise what types of projects are you interested in? Home improvement, cabinetry, furniture, small art items... these help to determine the tools needed, layouts and such.
Environment has a play also. Does it get too cold or hot to work with doors open, ie is ac/heat needed.
You have a nicely dimensioned space and a great start.
A pitfall, don’t focus too much of your time/money on getting the perfect tools, etc. tools typically get added with each project.
If I were to recommend min needed tools... small hand tools like drill, sander, etc. power... minimum is a table saw. You can do without the miter saw if you have a good table saw with a decent enough miter gage.
Is weather is a factor than shop vac at bare minimum and next up would be good dust collection, etc.

Sorry I can't answer all of your questions, but here's a few suggestions. Number one, a better part cooling fan. Just buy a cheap blower fan like this one, and print a radial cooling fan like this one. This should help a bit with your bottom screw holes being messy. For bigger prints this is a necessity. When it comes to getting prints off of the beds, I use a glass bed with a gluestick for adherence, and to remove prints I use this thing. Incredibly, incredibly useful. It's thin enough to get under prints without denting them, and the long design lets you move it underneath prints to free the whole this. The end is also sharp enough to scrape glue off of the printbed. Works a lot better than the scraper included with the printer.

I recommend this and these
It’s a set of vials and syringes. I would recommend getting a vial holder as well. That way, you have all the vials in one places and are not as likely to spill. The vials are nice because you can test small batch mixtures. Label the tops of the vials and keep a notebook. Rhodia is good or something else that can show off sheen. This way, you can more down the vial designation, the proportions, the inks used and what the resulting color looks like.

Another thing you would want to learn about is color therapy because a cool yellow mixed with a warm blue will give you a different green than a warm yellow mixed with a cool blue. Rot dye has a great mixing chart that is a wonderful resource for color mixing.

Beyond that, different inks interact and react in sometimes unexpected ways when mixed, which is another reason to have small vials to see what the reactions are and if the ink start to separate or do something else unusual.

Not much really. The benefit of buying the mk2s is that you really don't need to modify or swap anything.


Here are a few things you might want in my opinion:

• You might want some different filaments. You can stick with the brands and types that Prusa includes printing profiles for, or for other brands and types you may have to do some testing to find the right print temperature, speed, cooling, etc. Reading up on that process is a good idea.
  
  
• A paint scraper can be helpful for removing prints from the print bed, just be careful not to scratch the print surface.
  
  
• Some rubbing alcohol. Rubbing alcohol or window cleaner is what Prusa recommends to clean the PEI print bed. You can also use rubbing alcohol for this very cool trick to help loosen stuck prints
  
  
• A good set of calipers can be handy for measuring printed objects, measuring real-world objects you're trying to model things to fit, etc.
  
  
• bookmark some fun things on Thingiverse, MyMiniFactory, etc. that you'd like to print. Especially some small things that you can print quickly in your first few days/weeks with your printer that don't require painting, other parts, etc.
  
  
• I found my printer printed much better after I calibrated the Extruder and the Z-height. A decent extruder calibration process for the Prusa can be found here. The same site has some info on calibrating z-height, or I had good luck with this method. Mine was a kit though, so it's possible those are pre-calibrated with the assembled printer.
  
  
• You can buy different size and different material nozzles for the e3d hotend. Hardened steel nozzles are recommended for most of the filaments that have stuff embedded in them (carbon fiber, wood, etc) as those are really abrasive on the standard brass nozzle and can deform it internally,, causing later printing problems.
  
  
• Paint, sealant or epoxy can be useful for finishing up models. I haven't tried it myself, but I've seen pictures of some awesome results using this epoxy to give a smooth, hardened finish to your prints. Standard acrylic hobby paints are also great for color and pizzazz to your finished prints, especially more artsy stuff.

Knowing that he made a 4 ft x 4 ft cnc machine, I would venture to guess it would be a cnc router and he is planning to mainly cut wood and maybe some aluminum. That said I really wouldn't buy expensive machinist tools if you wanted to better budget your money.


Here are some stuff that can be made on a cnc router:
http://www.shopbottools.com/mSupport/projects.htm


I'm assuming he may have told you what kind of stuff he could build or wanted to build when he said he wanted to build one. If it was for wood projects, then you can get a good 6 in. digital caliper under $40, such as these:


http://www.amazon.com/iGaging-Electronic-Digital-Fractions-Stainless/dp/B001AQEZ2W
I have the large readout version of that one by the way.


Not sure what he plans to use for clamping his stuff down to the table, but here's a great option:
http://www.rockler.com/hold-down-clamp-5-1-2l-x-1-1-8w


OK, you built a cnc router, but what do you make? Here are some 3D files for purchase:
http://www.vectorart3d.com/


This 3D router bit set will work for sign making (not sure what diameter bit he needs, and also add some spiral bits)

http://www.rockler.com/rockler-3-pc-signmaking-router-bit-set

This is a great work shop apron because these shoulder straps are more comfortable than the ones the just go around your neck. Also the mesh pockets let saw dust fall out instead of collecting in there.

http://m.duluthtrading.com/store/mens/mens-workshop/tool-bags-tool-belts/85021.aspx

If your not sure what he plans to cut them a gift card is always welcomed.

I get mine from Amazon, but I also use a lot of tubes. Instead of inking up my pens from bottles, I only use sample vials (or something like a TWSBi inkwell for my larger pens). It's a great way to avoid contamination of your ink. We live in a pretty moldy area, so I"m always concerned about fuzz on the pens syndrome.

Note: there are other types of tubes that are on eBay, but these cryotubes are by far the best. The other clear ones can't have 5ml unless you fill it to the brim, making a mess of things. These tubes are exactly like the ones sold on Goulet pens, only it has blue lids instead of clear.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074QKMF2G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you'd like a rack for your sample vials, here's a link to the one that I purchased. It is identical to hte ones sold on Goulet.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005Z4QWIK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You may have luck with an impact screw driver like this, but you may want to start by adding a small amount of penetrating lubricant like this. Safety is a big deal with a panel, so either have the meter removed while you work on it, or be extremely careful while you work. If the money isn't a huge issue it would be worth swaping that federal pacific panel out for something newer and more safe if possible. Best of luck to you.

I cant' speak for other people, but in my case, I have an interest in building and making things outside of work, so I have invested time into learning how to use Fusion 360, and also purchased calipers (specifically this one) to get accurate measurements.

For this particular model, I had the broken part, and could measure everything using the pieces I had and the calipers. Using those measurements I could use Fusion 360 to model the part.

If you want to get started with making your own things, I would suggest first learning a program like Fusion. Tinkercad is a great starting point for people with no 3D modeling experience because it's free and is easier than a CAD program. Once you are comfortable with that, I would start tinkering with Fusion 360. Maker's Muse has a playlist that was helpful for me.

From there, it's whatever you think of to create.

I'm not sure how much help I'll be, but I also use a Flashforge Creator Pro...

1: If you're sick of dealing with abs, just put some blue painters tape on the bed and print PLA, once you open up the thing enough and modify your settings it does PLA perfectly well.

2: PVA glue stick, (though it looks like you are already using this) helps with bed adhesion with ABS and also gives you a bit of an ablative layer for when you are scraping things back off.

3: get a print removal tool like https://smile.amazon.com/ToyBuilder-Labs-Print-Removal-Tool/dp/B00VB1U886/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1494526580&sr=8-4&keywords=print+removal+tool to help pry things off the bed without destroying the sheet.

4: rafts, these really help with getting things off the bed, you waste quite a bit of plastic, but it's much easier to get things off.

5: bed level (and height) adjustment (and this really should be number 1) the little plastic sheet they give you to slide under the nozzle is of no real value, you may just be printing the first layer way too close to the bed, and absolutely squishing the filament into the bed. It is far more useful to just print a leveling pattern and then see where the bed needs adjustment and how it's extruding than to even bother with pulling the sheet out from under the head. I use this one http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:97151 and generally will tweak things until the strands are attached but will come off with my fingernails.

I'm not an expert on the bulk/cut cycle, but I don't think it's impossible, just easier to do separately. I've lost weight VERY slowly, but I know I've built muscle/strength in my shoulders and arms over the past 6 months. Whether this is the same thing or not, I don't know.

These are calipers. They measure bodyfat percentages.

Here were the directions I was given to use them: (instructions courtesy of /u/theycallhimhellcat )

Measure on the right side of the body:
measure the skin between the nipple and the arm pit (diagonal)
measure the skin by pinching belly button and to one side (horizontal)
measure the skin in the middle of my thigh (vertically)

To measure, you just grab skin with your right hand and pinch, place the caliper about 1/2 inch away from your pinch, and close it till it pops into place. Add up the 3 measurements and plug it in to a calculator and you get your BF%.


I just read your posts below about wanting to gain muscle without actually bulking heavily. With your scoliosis, I think the yoga would help a lot because it focuses on spinal strength and stability. If you get into lifting, the advice I was given for that is lighter weights, more repetitions. You build strength and definition, but not bulk.

You can be assembled and printing with the included tools in about half an hour, with no prior 3D printer experience. That's not a problem.

Actually getting the most out of the printer though, that depends on what you want to use it for.

I use it for making functional prints, replacement parts, and sometimes cool trinkets. I am not an artist, if you want to model and print sculptures, good luck. I haven't a clue.

If you're like me and want to make what I make, here's a list of things you should get:

• Calipers. Measuring is so important. I have these.
  
• M3 nuts/bolts. Possibly also M4 and M5 depending on what you're putting together. I bought this.
  
• Nylon locknuts. They won't shake loose over time, good for making thumbscrews with. My choice.
  
  Things you should print:
  
  
• Z-braces.
  
• DiiiCooler
  
• Thumbscrews, there are loads of M3 nyloc-insert thumbscrew designs on thingiverse, pick one you like the look of. The ones that came with the printer sucked though, and nylocs are great.
  
  Things you should download:
  
  
• Get the latest Cura, I think it might still be in beta. Don't use the version it comes with, you'll be missing out.
  
• Fusion 360. It's free for hobbyists and businesses making under 100k/yr. Learn to use it.
  
• Not a download, but try some Tinkercad tutorials and see what you think of that. It's more of a "light" software than Fusion is, meant for children, but both have their place and have slightly different features, despite being made by the same people. Sometimes Tinkercad is easier to use than Fusion for a certain task, most of the time it's the other way around for me though.
  
  While I'm making suggestions, I'd say you should get some PLA and PETG to start with, ignore ABS entirely. It's slightly cheaper per kilogram, but there are toxic fumes to worry about and it really needs an enclosure to print (well).
  
  PLA is cheap enough, but doesn't flex as much as ABS so it's better for different applications. PETG is like the best parts of PLA and ABS, but you have to print at lower speeds.
  
  I print at 45mm/s, 5 second minimum layer time using both PLA and PETG and it works perfectly. 210C/60C for PLA and 250/70 for PETG.
  
  If you have any questions, you know where to find me. :)

I prefer to cover the bottom of the pedals with gaffer tape — there are YouTube videos (which is how I found out about this) but I do it a little differently:

1. Take off the bottom plate of the pedal
   
2. Cover the outside bottom plate with gaffer tape from side to side (left/right, not top to bottom) so that you have about 1/8” or so that wraps around to the inside of the bottom plate.
   
3. For a typical Boss-size pedal, you’ll need a bit more than two strips so for best results start at the middle and then do top and bottom overlapping with the first piece of tape.
   
4. If there is a battery door on the bottom, leave a space for it (unless you’re 100% sure you’ll never use a battery)
   
5. I’ve found that some mini pedals (Mooer) it’s virtually impossible to get the bottom plate off. For any pedal it is possible to wrap the tape around the outside but putting it on the bottom plate gets better results because the pressure of the plate against the enclosure fights against the tape coming off.
   
6. Now the tape gives you a very flat, clean surface for the velcro
   
7. I always use brand-name industrial velcro. I don’t wait days but I do let it sit for a while (20-30 minutes) before starting to use it.
   
8. People have lots of opinions about what size/shape velcro to put on the bottom of the pedal. For most standard size pedals I put a single strip of 2” hook side that runs the entire length of the pedal top to bottom (leaving about 1/8” margin at each end) — although this makes it harder to get the pedal off the board, the velcro actually stays on the pedal better for the same reason that it stays on the board better if you use a single long strip from end to end — as you pull to detach the pedal, the unattached portions of the velcro strip keep the velcro from pulling off at the tension point.
   
   Edit: the gaffer tape should come off clean in most cases so this is also a great way to attach velcro to new/mint pedals and be able to easily get it off later when you want to sell but leave the pedal in mint condition.

That is also my general understanding of how to ventilate.

If your winter temps don't drop below freezing, I believe you can vent year around (someone please correct me if I'm wrong here), but closing off the vents in cold weather doesn't just protect your pipes, it helps cut down on your heating bill a tad (but probably not by much really since the R value of a foundation is fairly low).

As far as getting your current vents to work, I have used liquid wrench penetrating oil and achieved great results and I haven't tried it but have heard great things about Kroil.

In your case, I think that you REALLY need to get down a vapor barrier under your house--that will cut down on the stale smell, and I am pretty sure it also reduces exposure to radon (if you are at any risk).

This video does a good job of showing a well executed install of vapor barrier.

As a fellow Mac user, who also has a prusa mendel; I would highly recommend you use OctoPrint + a Raspberry Pi 3. This may not be a just starting out configuration but it makes life a lot easier in controlling the printer.

I use Slic3r for Mac configured to talk to the OctoPrint server through an API call, and I can send gcode to my printer across the network from the Slic3r application. With the RPi camera installed I can keep an eye on my prints without having to be in the same room.

Also you may be happier with:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This PSU is a bit cheaper than your standard ATX PSU, it may be a good choice if you're looking to try this hobby out as cheaply as possible. It is a more difficult way of going because you will need to print something like:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:199089

To keep live 120VAC from being exposed on your bench.

Path of least resistance to getting started:

Slic3r > Repetier Host or PronterFace or Cura > Printer

The best way I've found (easiest):

Slic3r > OctoPrint

Seeing as I have the same printer and host OS configuration, feel free to DM me and I'll answer any questions you may have.

Build some! Get some hard plastic irrigation tubing from Lowes or Home Depot, a few connectors, and some duct tape/grip tape or sand paper. If you know someone with a saw, great, if not you'll want to get a pipe cutter. Building your own is fun and while it seems spendy, I've gotten at least 5 hoops from a roll and have been able to downsize at will. You'll probably want to tape the hoop for added weight, and while gaff tape is nice and great for grip, duct tape is a bit cheaper and does a good enough job.

Congratulations on 3 months sober, it's inspiring to hear hooping has helped!

Hey I also new on this, got my printer a month ago, I was super exited as everyone here when receive their printer, I read a LOT while waiting for the printer, so I heard that the stock bed springs are crappy, so I ordered this ones FYSETC Bed springs, also ordered the Aluminium Extruder feeder, and read about the leveling, the paper sheath method, which I think you should already heard about, I did it at the first time the printer gave me a nearly perfect first print (demo dog) , after a few prints and on my third print I came home just to find a mess on my printer, so I did my research again, find out it was bed adhesion, and find out that the best way was glass bed + PEI sheet was the best option, while waiting to arrive I tried to clean the stock bed sheet with mineral spirits (did have rubbing alcohol) but it worsened the adhesion, so I used one adhesion sticker that comes with the overture filament, and again flawless adhesion, at least for the first 4 prints, then again the frustration, I tried some glue stick and worked but it leaves a mess on your print so I decided to try painters tape directly onto the aluminum bed (which lucky for me it is perfectly flat) this is the best adhesion I have tried, problem is also makes a mess with the down face of the print, Finally mi Gass-PEI arrived, (3 days ago), it has a great adhesion but is not perfect, also you have to raise the Z limit switch to compensate the 5~ mm of Glass-PEI, find out that it isn't perfectly flat it has a good adhesion and leaves a very smooth down face, but at some section it does't sticks well and leaves artifacts on the down face, I'm currently working to fix this.

Sorry for the long post, need to talk about my frustration and let you know you are not alone on this, once you manage to make a good print is very satisfying, I have a PETG filament waiting to be used but I don't think is a great idea to try it until a learn more about 3D printing and the Ender.

Hello, I somewhat specialize here.

What you can do is use gaff tape to secure the phone to the headset. use it around all the edges, at your discretion. you MUST use gaff tape because it leaves very little sticky residue... some may stay because of the heat, but its very easily cleanable. The strength of duct tape without the mess.

https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Premium-Grade-Gaffer-Power%C2%AE/dp/B00GZE3UJ8
*This comes in many colors, even white, which may suit better to be less noticeable.

After that, you can secure the black cover plate to it to cover up the phone... if you care more about security than aesthetics, go ahead and secure the black cover plate to the headset as well with the gaff tape...

alternatively, you can configure an anti theft pull box to the phone and/or headset. anti theft kits will most likely leave some sort of mark on either device so use with caution.

http://www.cissecuritysolutions.com/Anti-Theft_Pull-Boxes.html

No problemo!

This is a moderately pricey pen, but it's fantastic, I've owned two of them (one dried up because I forgot to add water to the cap(need to keep the sensor thing wet)). https://www.amazon.com/Bluelab-PENPH-Pen-Plant-Germination/dp/B005POOJHG/ref=asc_df_B005POOJHG/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167118301188&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16523942976628365276&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033565&hvtargid=pla-311195096389&psc=1

If you can't afford to do that yet (I would recommend it in the future if you're going to grow, it's months and months and months of feeding every couple days, a good pen is a great benefit to your grow) then the Hanna one will work, but it is less reliable for the long run. https://www.saltwateraquarium.com/hi98103-checker-ph-tester-with-0-1-ph-resolution-hanna-instruments/?gclid=Cj0KCQiAw5_fBRCSARIsAGodhk_YcmPTvhggiq3-aAIYcxhWBLPLL8HVepUW0QgXr7QHghSiTX1SOREaAoMyEALw_wcB

Right on - what exact kind of soil are you using?

On the cheap side I would use 3M Dual Lock, it's similar looking to velcro but WAY stronger. Instead of hooks and loops it uses opposing mushroom tops, the one I linked is the medium strength (250) and I think a 4-5 cm square on all four corners would be more then strong enough to hold up an A2 aluminum print (don't use too much, it is strong!). It's also nice that unlike velcro you use the same material on both sides, so you don't have to keep track of what you put on the wall or print.


A step up from that in price would be aluminum standoffs. Nicer looking, but much pricier and requires drilling a hole in the wall.

+1 for Apera, I just decided on this one by them. It was ~15 dollars more expensive than the model you have, but the increased pH sensitivity as well as the fact that it includes storage solution was more than enough for me to be willing to shell out the few extra bucks. Also, another super cool feature of this model is that you can buy replacement probes if you ever damage your current one, which will save you money in the long run. These also seemed to have a consistently higher rating than any other pH pens I looked at on amazon, and their customer service is pretty stellar from what I've gathered. Look into these too OP!

DWC is pretty straightforward. Maybe look into Hydroguard to protect roots a bit more. Read instructions carefully. no light needs to go inside... so make sure you have a black bucket, opaque basket and enough medium in basket. Black air tubing not transparent. watch th PH with a good ph pen and EC with wand meter like this or this . aim for ph 5.5 to 6.5. Good luck, DWC is fun.

Found this video that has good info. dwc

I bought the same thing for my v1:
12"x12" 0.03" PEI
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013HKZTA/
(6) 12x12" 3M Adhesive Transfer Tape:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7D5NQ/

At the time there were no practical cheaper/smaller options (although the extra 3M adhesive does come in handy).

... I scored/snapped the sheet into 4 pieces, and I'm still on the first PEI sheet after like 300 hours. It still looks flawless. I only use sharp scraper blades or no tools to remove parts. If you're printing something crazy in a cold room, you can add hairspray, but for the most part, PEI has perfect adhesion on it's own.

I definitely recommend the thicker PEI (0.03"+), as it makes the MPSM bed much more rigid. I don't have to bend the aluminum bed "flat again" anymore. I dont worry about bending the bed when ripping parts off the bed, even with super high adhesion.

Clean it with alcohol, not sandpaper.

DiiCooler, Z braces, thumbscrews for bed leveling, and the melzi temp fix are all common mods that I can recommend. You could also get the all Metal Hot end from Micro Swiss but I have not done this myself.

As for supplies, I would recommend getting a sheet of PEI and some 3M adhesive to stick it to the print bed. PEI is a great, low maintenance print surface that prints stick to very well even without any form of fixative to improve bed adhesion. If you don't go that route I would say get some buildtak to put on the print bed with washable gluestick depending on the filament you use. Basically you don't want to be printing directly on to the bed as there is a hole where the thermistor comes through.

Other than that, just get extra filament and have fun with it.

Last month we moved into a new place that has a 500 sf basement and I am using about 40% of that space to build a workshop for leather craft and woodworking. The space is still a work in progress and a complete disaster, but it is coming along. The space will be shared with storage and a home gym (shoutout to /r/homegym!).

I just finished designing and building this workbench using a 4x8' plywood sheet top. The plywood top is 3/4" thick oak, the bottom shelf is 19/32" OSB (I originally planned on 1/2" but this was actually cheaper), the legs are 4x4s, and the rest of the frame is made of 2x4s. Cutting plus assembly by myself took about 3 hours, 2 beers (only after cutting was completed!), and only one small bruise (unrelated to the beer), though I spent much more time on top of that iterating on the design. My next step is to attach a few vises, tool mounts, some drop down casters, and possibly a thin MDF sacrificial top. If I forgo the sacrificial top I will likely route a bevel along the edges.

This thing is completely overkill for what I intend to use it for, but I like knowing that I could rebuild an engine on it if I wanted (/knew how) to. I can work on a few projects at once and really spread out, which was my ultimate goal for this build. I'll likely build a few more smaller, dedicated benches along the wall for things like a drill press, miter saw, etc. in the next few weeks.

My problem is its always easy to “if I have that it’s hardly any more to include this” myself into a monster pack

Mine is a 3.5 x 5.5 x 7” soft pack that weighs 30.5 oz

Contents:
Byrd Rescue 2 serrated knife
Pill case with Robax, Motrin, antihistamine.
1 roll each medical mesh tape, paper tape, electrical tape.
1 med ziplock freezer bag with a handful of bandaids.
Rite in the rain note pad.
Scissors (klien 2100-7, no idea where/why i got them but they’re a great size for this)
1 med ziplock freezer bag with 1 8x10” compress, 8 antiseptic wipes (provodine-iodine & benzalkonium chloride), 2x iodine ointment, 4x cool jel packets.
Small container with imodium, tiny tube of polysporrin, and a strip thermometer.
Small tube of Q tips.
Small tube with a dozen UCO stormproof matches.
Exotac nano striker.
Travel pack of tissues.
A pair of vinyl gloves (wrapped).
Tampon.
2x unlubed condoms (wow those expired a while ago).
Thumbprint 4 in 1 screwdriver
3x pairs of foam ear plugs (dont remember the reasoning but they weigh nothing)

Missing:
Gauze roll.
Unflavoured dental floss.
Large sewing needle.
Pen/pencil.
Tweezers.
Tick-key.
?


Bottle preforms are great small tubes for keeping things dry

https://www.amazon.com/Soda-Bottle-Preforms-Caps-30/dp/B008MB1QNY

For a while you could buy redbull shots. They were a great small container as well

edit:correcting formatting.
Edit 2: always put rolls of tape in a baggy. When theyre hot they can ooze adhesive and make your kit a mess

the ph pen i use is a bluelab although ive used an oakton both are good. You'll want calibration solution for it as well.

other gadgets? I like to use a paint stirrer on a portable drill to mix ferts. a couple of quality spray bottles and a pump sprayer is nice to have on hand.

Treat for common pests systemically don't wait for that oh shit moment. I treat all my young healthy plants (before they go into bud) with a combination of OMRI (Organic Materials Review Institute) approved products: Azamax (neem extract for mites),Serenade (powdery mildew and mold) and Monterey Garden Spray (leaf miners and budworms). I use each of these at least once each, often if you wait to treat until you notice problems, it's too late to get optimum results.

Our 3D print removal tool or any other similar long-reaching palette knife is useful to remove prints and for setting consistent nozzle gaps.

Just don't use it as a pry-bar to try to pry the entire print off all at once. Instead, incrementally separate the print off the bed. As can be seen by our Amazon reviews

A hot glue (so you'll need a gun) can rescue a lifting print from continuing to lift - if caught early, it can save a huge print job, and can come off the plastic cleanly with just a little bit of practice.

A portable butane torch is great if you want to thoroughly burn off PLA and ABS crud off nozzles - in most cases, though, just get a spare nozzle. For switching out nozzles, you'll want the appropriate nut driver or wrench to make it easier to remove the nozzle.

Sure, happy to

Ingredients:

• 2 cups distilled or filtered water
  
• 1.5 TBSP additive free salt
  
• 1 lb. red jalapenos (or other hot red peppers of choice), halved, seeds & stems removed
  
• 1 lb. Thai red chilies (or other hot red peppers of choice), stems removed (seeds optional)
  
• 16 oz. sweet cherries (4 oz. in the ferment; 12 oz. added at blending), frozen or fresh (note that if using fresh, 16 oz. is the net weight AFTER the seeds are removed, so you’ll likely need more like 2 or more lbs.)
  
• 2 tsp garlic powder (post-ferment) OR 6-8 cloves fresh garlic in ferment
  
• 1 TBSP sugar (post-ferment)
  
• Optional: splash of white vinegar (post-ferment)
  
  Directions:
  
  1.) Rinse and prepare the peppers as described above.
  
  2.) Add the cherries and Thai chilies to the jar, and garlic if using fresh, followed by the larger jalapeno pieces.
  
  

3. Prepare the salt brine either by combining the salt in warm water and allowing it to cool, or shake them together vigorously in a tightly sealed jar. Then slowly add the brine to the ferment vessel.
   
   4.) About an inch before the jar is filled to the shoulder, add the weight, and continue pouring brine until all produce is submerged. It is important to have some distance from the top, as the water level will continue to rise as the produce releases moisture.
   
   5.) Apply the airlock lid and ferment for desired length. Suggested: Minimum one month. The pictures shown feature a nearly 3-month ferment.
   
   After the ferment:
   
   1.) Strain the brine from the peppers.
   
   2.) Transfer the peppers to the blender, add 1/2 cup of the reserved brine, 12oz. thawed frozen cherries, sugar, and garlic powder (unless fresh cloves were used in ferment). Blend on high for a few minutes. If you prefer a thinner sauce, add additional brine, blend, continuing to add brine and blend until desired consistency is achieved.
   
   3.) You may now store the sauce raw in the refrigerator, or go on to cook and/or pasteurize it.
   
   Raw sauce: This method preserves the probiotic bacteria in your ferment. If you can test the pH and confirm it is 3.2 or below, there will be no issues. If the pH is above this level, it is possible the added sugar and cherries can restart the ferment, which can create excessive pressure in the storage container. It is not suitable for mailing or room temperature storage. If you are close to 3.2, you may add vinegar until the correct pH is achieved. If not, refrigerator storage is an acceptable method, but the container should be monitored and the cap periodically loosened to release potential pressure build-up.
   
   Cooked sauce: Transfer the sauce to a medium saucepan, bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low, simmering covered for around 20 minutes. You may then opt to blend the sauce further in the blender for several minutes while hot, which will create a very smooth, easily flowing sauce. You can add a splash of vinegar for flavor and to further reduce pH as well. To transfer to 5 oz. woozy bottles, use a bottling funnel.

I have a a backpack for LD (various MIDI interfaces, USB-DMX dongle, laptops, AA Maglite) or a Bum bag for more hands-on electrics (where I say Knippex, Lindstrom, Fluke. And Maglite.). And a toolbox with the all important hammer (nicknamed "sweetness"), big-ass wrenches and so on.

I try not to forget this, ever.

Also a Wera of sort, but damn this one is elegant, I wasn't aware of it.

That thingy when used responsibly is a huge help, but do NOT use it as a safety controller.

Speaking of which, I tend to get people mad by insisting on using this before starting actual work. 400mA diff NOT working anyone? It happens.

Looking at how things are organised here, I couldn't get it in one bag; long jobs end up filling my car actually: Gels, and spares, and backups, and adapters, and an actual toolbox... And the cordless drill... when I do festivals or street theatre or such, my car end up the Tool-chest, you can't possibly carry it all while on the move, but you can organise your trunk so that everything comes easily at hand.

Great printer, the Ender 3 is very popular right now because it is fully open source. Which means if you have any questions, then there is lots of community support for it right now.

Out of the box everything is great, the only thing I would suggest is to spend a few bucks and upgrade the bed springs right off the bat. I've had mine a few months. Once I got my bed level it has been running great.

Also buy a few roles of PLA filament, because it only comes with enough to get a few test prints. Oh, and replacement nozzles, because they will eventually wear down and need replaced.

oh my goodness!!! what a great little gadget. I had no idea something like this even exists. I checked Amazon Canada but there are so many of these, and the instruction videos shows them sticking it into the hole of the wall plug. Yeah of course it has electricity inside. Will it work on any surface like a lets say a metal countertop that is "live" for whatever reasons???

I am going to buy the one a little expensive because it seems to be a reliable brand as per the reviews. Please let me know what you think and tell me if it will work on any conducting surfaces??

https://www.amazon.ca/Fluke-1AC-A1-II-Volt-Alert-Non-Contact-Voltage/dp/B000EJ332O/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1518252273&sr=1-5&keywords=non+contact+voltage+tester

How about that one please??

I do a similar thing, but these are the tubes I use. I bought two sets of them several years ago and they still work great. I replace the caps every so often. For the rack, I just keep them in six pack holders and put them in the keezer. I fill the unused vials with StarSan solution and store them that way.

I'd also like to add that, after I have racked a new beer into the fermentor, I pour the leftover trub into a mason jar, and then let it sit in the fridge for a day. Usually the trub separates to the bottom leaving a fair bit of usable wort. I give it another quick boil just to make sure its sterile and then make a small starter of something. After pouring off much of the beer, I can usually get about 10 vials of slurry.

Hi everyone! If you liked the electronics enclosure you can download the design files here -

• https://grabcad.com/library/3-4-axis-cnc-electronics-enclosure-1
  

• https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2756470
  

  
  

  And here's the part list!
  

  
  

  QUANTITY | COMPONENT NAME | LINK / COMMENT
  

  ---------:|----------|----------
  1 | 7I76-5I25 PLUG-N-GO KIT | http://store.mesanet.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=215
  1 | DROK LM2596 Analog Control Step-down Regulator Module | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019RKVMKU
  1 | DC Fan (120mm x 120mm x 25mm 24V) | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FBPQMXW
  1 | Mesh Dust Filter for 120mm Fan | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0A2UH0
  3 | DIN Rail | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015E4EIOK
  1 | IEC320 Inlet Power Socket | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/
  4 | KL-5056 Stepper Motor Driver - 32 bit DSP Based | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O6DC8PW
  1 | Emergency Stop Button Switch | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0094GM004
  25ft | 4 Pin Cable | www.ebay.com/itm/20M-4-Pin-5050-3528-RGB-LED-Strip-Light-Wire-Extension-Connector-Cable-Cord-Line-/282110056592?hash=item41af11d890
  1 | Antek Linear Power Supply - 500W 30V 16A Peak 25A With Passive Filters / EMI-RFI Filters and Suppressors | https://www.ebay.com/itm/PS-5N30-500W-30V-16A-Peak-25A-Stepper-Motor-Antek-Linear-Power-Supply-/371664502398?hash=item5688ee3e7e
  3 | Wall Outlets from Home Depot | Find ones you like / feel are safe enough using
  16ft | Led Strip Lights | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GJ3O0J8/
  1 | Misc. Hardware | Nuts, Bolts, Standoffs, Crimp Connectors, Spare Fuses, 2 Extra Limit Switches
  2 | Ogrmar SSR-25 DA Solid State Relay with Heat Sink | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074FT4VXB/
  1 | 18 AWG Gauge Stranded Hook-Up Wire Kit | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N51OO7Q
  ~30pc | Heat Shrink Tubing | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OZSL8UE
  1 | Shop-Vac | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EPH63K0
  7 | Uxcel 16mm Thread 4-Pin Panel Mount Wire Connector | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016FCZ5SS
  2 | 8 Circuit 20A Terminal Block | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000S5Q2VS
  
  Best of luck! Feel free to PM me or comment with any questions or feedback!

If it's useful, I too just got started, and built a similar drone. When it came to charging, I had to read a ton of stuff. Here's what I did (all non-referral Amazon links. you may find cheaper on banggood if you want to wait forever):

ISDT Charger

12v Power Supply

Balance Charger

To connect these up, it may be useful to have some extra XT60 plugs since the power supply won't have XT60, and neither does the balance charger.

With these optional parts, I was able to make a nice looking (and more safe) charger from the power supply, along with a 3d print available here


Voltmeter

Power plug

I found this to be a pretty fun project, and wasn't as expensive as some options I saw on HobbyKing or everywhere else. To be fair, it wasn't the cheapest option either.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/281880651830?_mwBanner=1

100 for $9 vs 10 for $3 (+ $4 shipping) at Goulet. Comes out to 9 cents a piece vs 71 cents (with shipping) at Goulet. But remember they are literally on the slow boat from China from eBay!

You may also like this holder: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005Z4QWIK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496098817&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=sample+vial+holder&dpPl=1&dpID=41dcT%2B82SsL&ref=plSrch

It is less than half the cost on Amazon

Both of these products are identical to what Goulet sells.

BTW I LOVE GOULET and do most of my purchasing from them! Always like to support the local community :)

I built my own pedal board case out of plywood. In order to attach pedals, I've got one better than velcro: 3M Dual-Lock. It's incredibly strong, and survives way longer than normal velcro.

Edit: have some pictures!

• Closed
  
• Side
  
• Open
  
  Not shown is a MIDI floorboard that goes across the top-left for channel switching, etc. on my tube amp (Hughes & Kettner Swtichblade).
  
  Over the next while, I hope to see the board get smaller and smaller as I sell it off since I just got an Axe FX and don't expect to ever need another pedal again (except I'm not going to sell the Silver Bulb Overdrive Deluxe because it's great and the T-Fuzz because it's pretty rare and have you heard that thing?!).

I actually use these on a $40 wal-mart chair, and it's perfect.

but the way arm rests tend to be mounted on gaming chairs you may want these as they'll put them more towards where you can reach without contorting.

Hope either of these help you out :)

EDIT: I attach them using this stuff and it is amazing and lasts so much longer than regular velcro, and it's great if you might want to take off your hotas and attach it to your desk or another chair.

I use a thin metal spatula for removing prints from the bed. It often tears the masking tape, but that's OK - That encourages me to put down fresh tape, and fresh tape makes for better prints.

Here is a list of things that people will always need, I understand you can't stock everything as overhead is an issue with retail, and storage as well, but most of these are small enough that they can occupy the shelf space you currently have. As for the larger things, like the 2020 extrusions, you could sell them in common lengths of 500mm and 1000mm and let the customer cut them down to the size they need, or just don't carry these at all. It's not a niche item, but for a retail store like you it would be hard to store and maintain, but man, would it be nice to be able to get those locally if i needed a piece for a project instead of having to wait on mail order.

• PSU 12v/24v
  
• Fans 30mm/40mm in 12v/24v
  
• PEI 200mm, 250mm, 300mm for Deltas and 300x300 for Cartesian, CoreXY.
  
• E3D Hotends
  
  • v6
    
  • Volcano
    
  • Titan Aero
    
  • Nozzle Variety Pack
    
  • Thermistors
    
  • Pro Socks
    
  • Heater Cartridges
    
  • Volcano Nozzles
    
  • Heat Breaks
    
• Boro Glass
  
• Spatulas similar to this style
  
• Plastic Razor Blades
  
• Capricorn PTFE Tubing 1.75/3mm variants
  
• Screws, Cap head, M3, M4, M5 etc.
  
• 2020 Extrusion, 2040 Extrusion etc
  
  this is just a basic list, others have listed other things as well, Steppers, Belts, Pulleys, Bearings etc. If you want 3d printing as a reason for other people to go to your store, these items will satisfy the need. Just keep prices fair, I have no issue paying a bit more compared to amazon to get it today.
  

I use the aforementioned 50-tube holder from Amazon as it's cheaper and larger than the Goulet's. They stack on top of each other in a drawer, which is a good thing, as I'm on my third rack.

And I used to try to cut up little bits of avery labels to put swabs on the top, but then I discovered paper hole reinforcers, and they fit on top of the vials perfectly. Here's what two of my racks look like next to my sample journal: http://i.imgur.com/K39IM2Y.jpg

I can't say this is what the "best" method is, just what has worked for me in the past:

• Coat with epoxy and/or use epoxy putty to deal with any large gaps or to make up for rough edges.
  
  
• Let it dry overnight
  
  
• Then LOTS of sanding. So, so much sanding. I honestly love this part, so carthartic.
  
  
• Spray paint automotive primer. I think the reason it has to be this specific type is because it does a good job of filling in the cracks and holes. I also give it a few rounds of sanding with a 220 grit sandpaper after priming to give it a silky smooth surface (yes, you can sand this type of primer!)
  
  
  My biggest gripe with 3D printing was that the ridges were always present. This process makes it so the ridges are non-existent and easier to paint!
  
  Edit: I should mention I've mostly worked with large scale cosplay props. This process might not work for everything, like you probably don't need to put epoxy on small stuff.

I bought a knife for 2 bucks that was a little less rusted then that, but still very rusty. Don't forcefully open it, but if it opens without too much effort that's ok. Before opening or trying anything soak it in WD40. If you have a type of penetrating oil (like Kroil) that would be good too. Once the WD40 has gotten as much rust off as it can, you will want to take some kind of metal brush too the blade. If you have a wire brush and a drill, you can carefully try that too (just on the really bad parts). Once you've gotten it down to where you can see more metal then rust, take some #000 steel wool and some WD40 and get to work. As for the handle, I would suggest starting off with #000 or even #0000 steel wool as it is really fine and can remove the lighter rust with ease. Once you've got it de-rusted take some metal polish and a towel and get rubbing. If that isn't working fast enough, take some of the #0000 steel wool and use the metal polish with that. At this point you should have a pretty shiny knife, but there will likely still be dips in the knife with rust in them. Not a whole lot you can do about that, but hopefully the worse of it won't be on the blade (or edge of the blade). At this point you will want to clean the knife with isp alcohol to make sure no wd40 or polish is left on the knife, and then go ahead and sharpen it.

case (pouch)

flower vial(s)

mlfb finishing grinder you can use a regular grinder and hold it upside down to grind finer, but the finishing grinder is beautiful and short enough to fit in my case.

edit: amazon lube

amazon pipe cleaners

case and vials above are smell safe. my every day carry is that bag with the pax, two jyarz (one for fresh one for abv), the finishing grinder, and a couple extra pipe screens in case i am a klutz.

oh also a stirring tool.

While I've never had success with a Rep2X and PLA (except for one roll this one time), it sounds like you've got it extruding fairly well at this point.

So your current difficulty is getting the print to stay stuck to the bed? I'd recommend getting a sheet of PEI (I use 0.03" thickness) like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013HKZTA
Then cut it to size and stick it to your print bed with this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7CZ32

I've had awesome success with PEI and PLA. It sticks great until it cools down, then it comes off easily. Print with the bed at 50C.

The monitor carrier is a great idea to protect the screen. BUT, for the cpu I suggest getting a cart like this and bungie cords to tie it all down on while traveling through the airport instead of trying to lug the case and monitor physically. I have used one of these for years, it was worth every penny.

Other suggestions:

If you have the original boxes for both, I highly suggest that you ship them via Fedex or UPS instead in their original boxes.

If you are going to fly with them, and you want to chance checking them to fly in the underbelly of the plane, I suggest you pull out your Graphics card(s) and Hard Drives, and place them in your carry on luggage, I've seen the end results of the TSA taking apart computers to inspect these part and then just tossing them back into the case willy-nilly.

Can't believe no one's thought of [propylene glycol] (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Propylene_glycol) yet. It's very safe but can literally be used as antifreeze. LD50 is very high - [>20g/kg in rats] (http://www.sciencelab.com/msds.php?msdsId=9927239), miscible with water, generally recognized as safe by the FDA, and you can buy it "kosher food grade" on Amazon. Oh yeah, it's also a little sweet and is even marketed as those [Mio fit water additives] (http://www.makeitmio.com/), which means they could've gone out, bought a bunch and mixed it with water and then put it in the freezer.

Thats great to hear! It must've still had moisture under the chips causing a short but now had time to fully dry out.


Get this stuff https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Silicone-Modified-Conformal/dp/B008O9YIV6/ its modified with a UV dye so you can see where its been applied. You can get a UV led Flashlight for cheap to ensure havent missed a spot.

You can coat everything, even soldering pads. if you ever need to solder anything to the board, the coating just steams away just be sure to reapply the coating in that area afterwards.

The bottle arrived the other day and I took my tinyhawk freestyle apart and desoldered the VTX (same board as the tinyhawk) to fully coat it then also added a larger capacitor. https://i.imgur.com/wYo9Laz.jpg . I did two coats then one more once everything was soldered and plugged in. I'm confident that this thing could survive a dunk in a pond now.

Most people are telling you it can't be done, but the truth is there are food grade filaments and techniques for printing food safe parts. I don't recommend you do this, but at the same time I'm happy to provide the following information.

• Don't print with a brass nozzle, as it probably contains lead.
  
• PETG is food safe, and can be sterilized.
  
  https://all3dp.com/food-safe-3d-printing-material-filament-plastic/
  
  https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/thread/overview-food-safe-3d-printing-materials
  
  Slightly related, I've emailed Smooth-On to confirm their XTC-3D is not food grade.
  

what i do for motivation is make me a weight chart in excel. in one column i have the date i weight myself on and in the other column is what I should be weighing for the week. This way I can know exactly how much I'll weigh and by what date I will be getting there. I try to shoot for 2lbs a week weight loss as that's pretty good progress and keeps me more motivated. A weekly cheat is OK as long as you plan to make up for it by eating less later on. I visit my parents on the weekend so my weekends are basically cheat days, but I try not to go too overboard still. I also had a cheat week where I made no progress (vacation) but I still kept on trucking. You'll have your ups and downs, try to focus more on the positive effects of your efforts and don't dwell on it if you gain a pound one week.

Also I would recommend tape measure and calipers. This way you'll know when you lose fat vs just water weight fluctuations on the scale (the scale can fluctuate at least 5lbs).

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000G7YW7Y/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000QURRUK/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Set your goals, try to achieve them every week, and keep track of your measurements! Stick to healthy foods, while you can lose weight eating fried foods you have to eat less of them for this to happen, than say, a salad. You can eat a lot of salad and not have it impact your calories for the day.

Protein is also important. Protein will keep you full longer! Meat, eggs.

Avoid excessive carbs but a piece of bread here and there doesn't hurt too much as long as it's under your goal. Don't expect to be able to fill up on bread though.

If you don't reach your goal for the week then you need to adjust the amount of calories you are eating! Eating less food vs eating more isn't going to kill you (as long as you only lose 2lbs per week and not any more!)

In the beginning you should see a lot of progress, then you'll level out and it will become harder to lose weight as you reach your goal. Adjust your calories then and don't get discouraged!

Good luck on your weight loss journey.

As long as you don't get lazy and start cutting corners, or experimenting too much before you're ready, you'll see steady improvement.

IMO, stick to the directions and LST for a couple grows until you've got it down to where you really aren't having to look up each step and you aren't making any little mistakes causing the plants stress. Then try some HST like Super Cropping to increase your yield even more.

If you plan on continuing to grow, my best advice is to invest in a good pH meter like this one. and measure the pH of your runoff so you know if your soil pH is drifting and compensate on your next watering by going up or down by .2 or so. Keep it between 6.3 and 6.8. Beware of cheap pH meters, they need to be recalibrated constantly to be even remotely reliable.

I am still a newb on my first grow, so please take this as potentially wrong. Also, if anyone sees a problem, let me know. I'm trying to do my best.

I started in a tent but I built a 6'x8' grow room. I posted it to this sub a while back. Here is the album: http://imgur.com/a/Gshra

I upgraded to COB LEDs. They can pull 500 watts (40 watts per sqft) They are currently at 85% (34 watts per sq ft). The plan is to slowly ramp them up to 100% the first few week of flower. (I'm currently in the first week of flower). Here the album on that build: http://imgur.com/a/iWYiP

I'm in a basement where I can draw a large volume of cool air into the room. It becomes a problem during lights out because it gets too cold. I have on of those oil filled radiator heaters hooked up to a thermostat-controlled outlet:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KEYDNKK

When it hits 69F, it kicks on until it gets up to 79F then it shuts off.

To control the upper end of the temperature, I use my fan and this speed controller.

fan:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018WM0EMQ

speed controller:

http://www.hyper-fans.com/shop/bybrand/hyper-fan/hyper-fan-temperature-speed-controller

I haven't had any need to run an A/C unit but I could plug one into the "cooling" side of that temperature-controlled outlet.

The humidity in the room is rather high right now (50-60%). It seems to go up when I water. I'm on the fence if I should get a dehumidifier or just let it ride. If I do get one, that will have to have a humidity I can set.

Also, I put my original grow tent in grow room to veg some clones. I covered up all the passive air vents and taped them closed with gorilla tape. Then, I used flexible ducting to make an exhaust tube and intake tube. Using the flexible tubing, I can make light traps. I put 4 CFLs in there on a 18/6 timer. I do have an exhaust fan in the tent. It does not, however, need a carbon filter as the whole room is filtered. I'm not sure how a veg tent in a flower room is going to work out, but I am going to find out. :)

Anyway, I'm a newb on my first grow. That is, however, how I am currently growing weed.

The solid red light you are having is the temperature-light issue. Make sure you clean it regularly, and leave it upside down (oven at the bottom) so that the piece stays as clean as possible.

I will buy some mouthpiece lubricant (or just Propylene Glycol (Amazon Link)) to lubricate the mouth piece connection part thoroughly. You don't need a lot, but make sure it is lubed up in the connection part. It always solves my temp-light issues.

Make sure to checkout the wiki in this subreddit on how to clean the pax.

Ill always recommend #1 but I have seen other people suggest #2 as a safe alternative.

1. Pax Official Site
   
   
2. Amazon Merchant
   
   Before you make your decision on using an alternative take heed of this warning from Ploom (source: some site called "Rich Malley's blog", but it seems like a legit CSR Reply):
   
   >Regarding my suggestion that AstroGlide is an acceptable substitute for the lube they offer for purchase, Ploom pointed out that if a Pax owner damages her vaporizer by using anything other than their officially approved lubricant, she could void her 10yr. warranty.
   
   

haha wow, just checked on amazon. Apparently I got this April, 2015 and it still works great for me. It's been used a ton, thrown around, etc and it's still holding up good enough.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HVVSDU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Not sure if this is the 'PDF' you speak of, but best place is here: http://manual.prusa3d.com/c/Original_Prusa_i3_MK2_kit_assembly because you get high resolution images and can read comments against each step that other builders have made during their builds. Lots of good hints & tips there, plus a video from Joseph about calibration.

Edit: Buy one of these for bed-removal of objects: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VB1U886/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And a pack of these to clean your bed: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KJ6U8NE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hey, thanks! Yes, that's the one I was thinking of. I just couldn't find it. Idk about better though. They're different for sure, but they're both made from bottle preforms, so the tube strength should be the same.

The pocket reel comes with:

• 1 pocket reel
  
• 4 fishing hooks
  
• 4 removable sinkers
  
• 2 metal spinner lures
  
• 3/4" bobber
  
• knot guide with directions
  
• 45' spool of fishing line
  
  The one I linked comes with:
  
  
• 1 Heavy duty plastic tube with screw top lid.
  
• 24’ of 20# monfilament fishing line
  
• 3 #2 Eagle Claw Hooks
  
• 3 #4 Eagle Claw Hooks
  
• 4 #3 Split Shot Lead Sinkers
  
• 4 #7 Split Shot Lead Sinkers
  
• 2 Slip Bobbers
  
• 2 Attached Bobbers
  
• 2 Various colored Jigs
  
  So, with the pocket reel, you get 4 hooks instead of 6, 1 bobber instead of 2, 4 sinkers instead of 8, metal spinners instead of jigs, but almost twice as much line and a "knot guide".
  
  Seems like about a wash to me. I should note that I don't have a horse in this race, I've never used either and am not affiliated with either shop. The kit I posted was one I found a month or so ago while looking for the one you posted.
  
  Personally, I went with neither and just bought some bottle preforms for about a buck a piece, filled a couple with the fishing gear I already had and used the rest for other camping gear: spices/oil for cooking, match case, pill bottles, tinder case, etc.

My temps are fantastic.

Ambient temp of 22

CPU idle = 28

CPU load = 36

GPU idle = 29

GPU load = 38

I'm in the midwest in the states and right now there is a nice cool breeze with the windows open. The other day the ambient temp was around 28-29 so all idle/load temps were about 5 degrees more than what they are now. Nothing ever above or at 45 however (even when maxing out battlefield 4 while streaming youtube and chatting online).

The pumps and reservoirs were first held on with some screws and washers as there are plenty of holes on the side of the drive cages to attach these to. However, I noticed that this caused the drive cages to bend under he weight. So much that the drive doors would not stay shut and it was very noticeable. This was caused by a combination of my incredibly heavy glass reservoirs and the very thin drive cage material/metal.

To combat this, I used this 3m dual lock stuff which works remarkably well. It holds stronger than any simple velcro I have ever seen or used. Absolutely amazing stuff and I highly recommend it for modding. Once you join two pieces together you would swear that they are permanently glued together. I then used some zip ties and strung them from one side of the drive cage to the other (out of view and cannot be seen without opening up the drive cage doors) to prevent any more bending or bulging from the cages.

If you use washers and nuts, you will have to make sure that the head of the screw is facing the inside of the drive cage. the nut will be attached to the screw on the outside of the drive cage. This will allow the drives to still move in and out of the cage. Otherwise if your screw is protruding too far into the cage, your drives will nt be able to move in or out.

Look at something like this :https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VB1U886?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I used to just wreck prints trying to get it off with the stock scraper they send with the printer. It’s a thinner edge so it really seems to pop it off the bed a lot easier. I got that second one I linked a few posts back and I don’t use one of the tools but the longer one I’ll use after using the first tool on big prints outside of that this one really seems to get under prints with out to much effort.

Another solution that I have heard good results with but I not personally use is this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2JGTWJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xQdWAb79FZS82
It’s on my list to try but my current printer doesn’t really need anything to help with binding or release from the bed. Now I did pick up a bed surface called geckotek : www.geckotek.co it’s supposed to be a bed pad like on the printer already but is supposed to just release prints after the bed cools down. Might run around $20 so it’s not to bad of a loss not sure when I’ll get around to installing it but could be better than the current surface it has now.


For a camera/smart switch look into a octopi setup. It uses a raspberry pi but it acts as a print controller. From what I heard is you can start/stop prints as well as upload prints you sliced and just run it from there. But you are supposed to be able to remote view it with a camera as well. I just never got around to setting one up but I do have everything if I ever need it. I normally run my long prints on the days I know I’m home but I normally don’t have to many issues though I have failures in the middle of the night but with me being close by I can catch it before any chance of damage. I do have my printer on a ups but I think it’s on the end of its life span so I will most likely need to replace it or the batteries later this year.

To give an opinion contrary to Linkdead404's, I think the heated bed is absolutely worth it. I only print in PLA, and I dealt with the painters tape on the Printrbot Metal for a long time. After I got my Rostock and used the heated bed with PLA, I upgraded the Printrbot as well. Everything sticks like glue and comes out super flat. I also have a sheet of PEI on the print bed of both printers which lets me print with nothing more than a quick wipe off with rubbing alcohol. So awesome.

Edit: I should have put this as a reply to OP. I bought the $99 upgrade kit, you also need a power supply, which I got on sale from Newegg.

Thanks! Wish I would’ve straightened the labels out more for optimal satisfaction! Lol.

Karter Scientific 208U2 Plastic... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005Z4QWIK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I'd say the yellow bed springs are worthwhile. They're about $5 on Amazon, I bought these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GXC1G2B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They help keep the bed from going out-of-level as quickly, vs the stock springs. They're easy to install, and cheap, which is nice.

There are loads of other upgrades you can consider. A glass print bed surface, as one example, or a PEI print bed. Either can help provide a flatter print surface, vs the stock magnetic one (which will more-readily follow any distortions in the heated bed surface, making your print surface uneven).

Here is a link to it on amazon. Would be happy to send an affiliate link if you like :)

https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Silicone-Modified-Conformal/dp/B008O9YIV6/

Seriously though, this stuff works well for me. I can fly and crash into snow with confidence. :)

I'm noticing a trend involving multi-tailed foxes...

Very cool, but I have a question. Do you think the filament would still be sensitive enough to heat if it was coated in epoxy such as this stuff to give it a nicer, more "sculpture"-like finish? It'd be fun to have something like this, but I typically do everything I can to obscure print lines on display pieces. Can't prime or paint this though, obviously.

Hey this was my shipping accessories I use.

1. Clever made collapsable crate https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UM4D5NS/ref=pd_aw_lpo_469_tr_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=9D7QR3TEJCE1YV1008GP
   
   
2. Collapsable hand cart
   https://www.amazon.com/Magna-Personal-Capacity-Aluminum-Folding/dp/B000HVVSDU
   
   
3. Clever made cooler bags (soft and foldable) buy 2
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01KPW8YWS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495113854&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=clevermade%2Bcooler%2Bbag&dpPl=1&dpID=51EpcSKOcbL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1
   
   I use most of this stuff when not working instacart so it's a win win for me.
   

What you absolutely MUSTTTTTTT!!!! order? Nothing. The printer works as is. But if you want to do yourself a favour, here's a list of what I consider essentials:


- New springs, both bed and extruder. I don't have a link for an extruder one as I upgraded my entire extruder drive frame and that came with a better spring

- A new removable bed. Creality glass bed or glass with a PEI sheet is my bed of choice

- Thermal pad to avoid the annoying bed clamps. Cut squares out of it, lay them in a checkered pattern alternating between thermal pad and nothing and place your bed on top. They will hold the bed in place and help with heating

- Stepper dampers if your printer is anywhere near where you spend your time, it sounds like a bloody jackhammer right out of the box

- New tube fittings, the stock ones are terrible and will give out in a matter of weeks at best. They also barely hold onto the tube

There are a ton of other great upgrades, but I think a good idea is to get a feel for it yourself.

What you can do, however, is check out some printable upgrades. I have this thread where people contributed with their choice of printable upgrades. It's a great list you can refer to later. Essentials on that are the fan guard and LCD back cover simply because the Ender 3 as is has the fan and back of the LCD exposed and that makes it crazy vulnerable to dust and gook damage

Actually, the parts are pretty standard, so it doesn't really matter where you buy from.

I bought them from various sources (electronics markets, amazon, and some local shops), so my links are just to be seen as examples:

• PSU Switching Power Supply 400W 12V 33A for 3D Printer Kits 115V/230V S-400-12 (got mine locally for 20€)
  
• MOSFET BIQU Heat Bed Power Module Expansion Hot Bed MOS Tube for 3D Printer or alternatively TriGorilla 3D Printer Heating Controller MKS MOSFET for Heatbed Extruder MOS Module (this one is huge, but powerful)
  
• Power socket & switch https://www.amazon.com/URBEST-Module-Switch-Certification-Socket/dp/B00ME5YAPK - here any 10A 250V 3 Pin IEC320 C14 type will do
  
• T-Belt RepRap Champion 5 Meter 6mm Width GT2 Timing Belt for Reprap Delta 3D Printer Kossel Rostock
  
• Pulleys BIQU GT2 20Teeth 3mm Bore Aluminum Timing Belt Idler Pulley for 3D Printer 6mm Width Timing Belt (Pack of 5pcs)
  
• Bushings 3D Printer Solid Polymer LM8UU Bearing 8mm shaft - Igus Drylin RJ4JP-01-08 for Anet A8 Prusa i3 3D Printer RepRap (warning: you need 8 pcs of these bushings. Couldn't find any listed offer with 8)
  
• Borosilicate Glass Signstek 3D Printer MK2 MK3 Heated Bed Tempered Borosilicate Glass Plate 2132003mm
  
  Printed upgrades:
  
  
• Z-Endstop for 3mm Glass
  
• Improved Fan duct or Fan duct for Anet A6 because my original fell out and killed a print as well as the fan mounting plate
  
• PSU cover
  
• Y-Belt holder
  
• Table nut and cover spring
  
• Anet A6 Dual Mosfet Holder (works only for the small MOSFETs)
  
• Z-axis calibration spacer (not really necessary but nice to have) - print two
  
  There is one small error in the assembly videos: The bed mounting plate (the H-shaped thing) is mounted upside down in the video. The bar that goes across the axes and connects both outer plates should be under the plates, not above as in the assembly videos.
  

These digital calipers have been great for me. They are extremely accurate and precise, and the ability to switch between mm, decimal inches, and fraction inches is great if you live in the one developed country not yet on the metric system for some reason. It also includes two batteries, which is nice.

Check your local LANs at http://lanpartylist.com/ or as another commenter posted, google "LAN Party" + your state/region. I don't recommend searching by city since you might miss out on a sweet LAN only a few more miles down the road.

Generally speaking for most public LANs, assume that a chair and 3-4 feet of table space is provided for you, and nothing else. Cables are generally a cointoss, so always assume you'll need your own. You should bring the following at minimum.

• Computer
  
• Monitor
  
• VGA / DVI / HDMI / DisplayPort cable
  
• Headset with functional microphone
  
• Mouse
  
• Keyboard
  
• An X360 controller, just in case a racing game is played.
  
• 15' ethernet cable
  
• Power cables
  
• All Windows Updates installed. No one likes viruses.
  
• Your computer should have a screensaver password, a BIOS password, and preferably some sort of locking mechanism depending on the venue.
  
• Shareable chips, soda or water, assuming they run a community chest.
  
• CASH for a community pizza run. Assume $7-10 per head.
  
• Consider a folding hand truck and some bungee cords to carry your PC + monitor in. They're the preferred transport of Quakecon! :)
  
  The LAN host will generally post a list of "the community's favorite games" or possibly even a schedule with specific games. Install all of these in advance and make sure they're fully patched the night before game day, since bandwidth may be limited or non-existent even. Put Steam into offline mode until you know it's safe to go online.
  
  
  
  Do NOT bring:
  
  
• An Uninterruptible Power Supply (UPS). They draw too much power and can trip a circuit mid-game. Don't be that guy.
  
• A space heater, microwave, lava lamp, or other power-sucking device that isn't your computer.
  
• Speakers. Believe me from my days in LANmaniac that this will eventually lead to a loudness war. Small USB speakers are sometimes okay (check the host's rules) for downtime in-between games if you're showing videos to friends, but they should never be used while gaming.
  
• A chair, without the express prior consent of the host.
  
• A monitor or TV greater than 3' in horizontal width, unless again you have permission from the host.
  
• A cooler full of ice, since spills do happen and they're not fun around electricity. Use the cold packs instead.
  
• An ethernet switch, hub or router. Hosts don't like troubleshooting network issues they didn't introduce themselves.
  
• Any NAS devices. An external hard drive is usually tolerable, but a mini computer with its own ethernet port rarely is.
  
• An attitude.
  
• Loneliness. You're there to play games with others, not play WoW solo or check Facebook.
  
  
  Have fun!
  
  

I have a Bayite 201 that another r/cigars fellow had mentioned: https://www.amazon.com/Temperature-Controller-bayite-Pre-Wired-Thermostat/dp/B01KEYDNKK

I plugged in a 3 to 1 outlet and have the fridge and fan plugged into the cooling circuit. I have it set to cool to 65 with a 3 degree delta, so at 68 degrees, it will kick on.
I keep the sensor up at the top since it's warmer there. There can be about a 2 degree variance between top and bottom. After circulation it evens out. I also figure that this will save on electricity long run as I had it plugged in and it sounded like it was always running. When it turns off, it will reset to the lowest cooling setting which is 55, but it will turn off well before that so it's not a worry.

I still keep everything in tuppers. I haven't gotten to that level of trust yet with this thing and haven't comfy w/ KL.

I recently stopped using blue tape and switched to PEI sheets on glass. I'll never go back. I think this would be a good thing for you to try, the PEI sheet releases pretty easily once cool.

PEI (Polyetherimide) Sheet, Opaque Natural, Standard Tolerance, ASTM D5205 PEI0113, 0.03" Thickness, 12" Width, 12" Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013HKZTA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_j.9Dxb7FAEG3J

TapeCase 12" squares (pack of 6), Converted from 3M 468MP Adhesive Transfer Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Y7D5NQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_S.9DxbBW56J7Z

Anytime! 3M Dual Lock Reclosable Fastener TB3550 250/250 Black, 1 in x 10 ft (1 Mated Strip/Bag) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007OXK1AK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FSb-Bb8T1AKGD

Sorry embedding links isn’t working for me at the moment. It’s similar to hook and loop but just holds a lot better. You don’t need much and it is very strong.

I use it for my pedals as well.

I have several upgrades in the queue for this weekend once my M3 hardware kit comes in:

• The 40mm fan for the controller board: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1867169
  
• The Z-Axis rod stabilizers: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1775502
  
• The zero-offset mount: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1848402
  
  (Note the above designs are all three by USWaterRockets, who seems to have exceptional engineering skills, but I haven't installed them yet. Hopefully, this weekend and I'll post results)
  
  Another one I'm considering next:
  
  
• Belt tensioners: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1697171
  
  Here is the E3D-v6 adapter I currently have on the printer:
  
• https://hackaday.io/project/12184-monoprice-mp-select-mini-e3d-hotend-adapter
  
  Note the above design is just a quick-and-dirty solution; the author even states this. It works and will get you what you need to get things going with the new head.
  
  Other upgrades I've done:
  
  
• Upgrade the firmware and set the PID values correctly to control temperature better: https://hackaday.io/project/12696/instructions
  
• Replacement filament feeder: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0196B285I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• PEI print surface (two parts):
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7D5NQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013HKZTA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Cork insulation under print bed (I attached it using the adhesive from the above order): http://www.michaels.com/artminds-cork-roll/M10171279.html?dwvar_M10171279_color=Natural#q=cork&start=6
  
  Here's the E3D-v6 printhead I bought and it's worked well: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H4V2QEK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  Disclaimer: I'm new to 3D printing. This is my first printer and the learning curve is steep. I may look back on this posting in a year and think "what an idiot I was doing <this>". Take my advice with a grain of salt, as I'm muddling through this whole thing. YMMV

Best of the budget category is probably the iGaging calipers. Yes, it's absolutely worth the price difference over the $10 versions. If you weren't looking for the "best" recommendation and just looking for "cheap", then I would recommend the $10 ones. They're fine after a few minutes of cleaning them up.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AQEZ2W/

Can be anything as simple as this. You don't need the really fancy ones, and I'm sure there are cheaper ones that will do the job (this unit is bulky, but I can verify it does the job).

It has a temperature probe as well as a temperature setting. They usually have several other settings (to control the allowed temperature swing, etc.) Once configured it aims for the temperature and cuts power to the outlet when the temperature is met and within range. When it is too hot (above the set range) then the the outlet is turned on, so the wine fridge can bring the temperature back into the desired range.

e.g. Set for 68 +- 4F Then it'll turn on at 72, cool to 64 and turn off. Cycle begins again.

You will need to experiment to find ideal range, time and response for your area and cooling load (e.g. an empty wine fridge will cool quicker than one packed to the brim). You also don't want it your settings at 70F w/0F swing or it will turn on and off, again and again as it bounces off the temperature setting.

edited: For some clarification.

I never used loctite blue, unless you just mean the loctite in the blue squished casing? And no one should ever use any sort of glue as a protective coating, under any circumstances, ever. Either nail polish (cellulose based only), or conformal coating (like this stuff): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9YIV6/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_5?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
I have no comments whatsoever about nail polish or silicone coating as an IHS sealer, and I would always recommend RTV now, since I've seen how easy it is to work with if you do the very tiny dab method (and when I say tiny, I mean the bare minimum required to touch the substrate).

In general, any type of super glue is not a good idea because it is a -very- strong adhesive and can risk damaging the green substrate, as well as making delidding difficult.

The super sparse RTV method is popular now because if you apply just enough to stop the IHS from moving when you close the latch (after letting it cure in the relid kit for an hour+), it does its job and if you happen to have messed up or something, you can remove the IHS just by prying it with your nails.

I'm curious what happened, though. How did the stuff spread like that? And what happened to the die? I honestly don't understand what happened. Unless the IHS slid somehow and liquid metal contacted the super glue and reacted with it?

https://www.amazon.com/AccuFitness-AM99-Accu-Measure-Body-Caliper/dp/B000QURRUK?keywords=body+fat+caliper&qid=1540671840&sr=8-8&ref=sr_1_8

http://www.linear-software.com/online.html

Here's a pretty good caliper with the online calculator. It's pretty much as good as it gets for home tests.

Don't worry about heat. Conformal coating isn't going to insulate anything so much it over-heats. Unless you put on like 20 coats of the stuff maybe.

By the way, you should probably use silicone conformal coating instead of acrylic. It's a little more durable, and not quite as nasty to work on. Personally I prefer the liquid over aerosol. It's much easier to make sure you get everything coated well, and the fumes aren't quite as bad.

Base model Blade 15 2018 with 1060

For best thermals:

Thermal pads and liquid metal

as well as this conformal coating to prevent the liquid metal from allowing conduction to happen.



in ThrottleStop


for performance
and for Battery

Then if you want to get even better thermals
this cooling pad giving me these idle temps and these temps in Assassins Creed Odyssey after 3 hours of play Connected to my Core X Chroma.


With 32gb of RAM and 4tb of storage between the 2tb sata and the 2tb nvme drives it's my work computer with A couple VMs running and lots of chrome tabs and my main PC when i'm home plugged into the core.

if you don't like the Razer logo on the back you can get a dbrand skin on it with no logo cutout

The bung did not want to stay in initially. I think because I had pulled it from the sanitized water so to make sure it wasn't going anywhere and ruining the works I secured it with some gaffers tape.

Unrelated pro tip from photo and video experience. Decent gaffers tape is much better for securing non paper items than duck tape. It wont leave a sticky mess and its just as strong if not stronger than duck tape.

This is what I use and love

Kroil: http://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroil-Penetrating-aerosol-AEROKROIL/dp/B000F09CEA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420942400&sr=8-1&keywords=kroil

I recently did an accidental long term storage test on my guns. I didn't have nearly the same amount of rust you do but... /u/moveman61 recommend Kroil to me. It worked wonders.

Steps:
Strip 870 (stock included)
Spray Kroil on affected areas
Let sit for 10-15 min
Use brass brush
Wipe clean

From here you have 1 of 2 choices

A: Apply oil to prevent future rust
B: degrease and paint it

In the past I have used black spray paint that is meant to go on grills. Its a cheap (bubba) solution compared to more expensive paints and it has worked quite nicely for me in the past. I wouldn't use this method on a nicer gun but for the standard black 870 it works great. If you're worried about matching colors just go ahead and clean/paint the barrel as well. As long as you do a decent spray job nobody will even notice. I even had one guy ask me how I kept the finish so nice over the years. It took him a second to realize there was paint on it.

Amazon has it in amounts from 1 pint to 5 gallons. Dunno about you, but they ship to me pretty quick. And no probing questions.

But NSA WILL know! :)

(EDIT): Also, I posted this link a little while ago that has some good information about PG labelling, so you'll know what you are buying.

So when I discovered pb blaster, it was amazing. Stuff worked so much better than the other products I used. Then I got into the trades and a couple of the old timers swore by a product called Aero Kroil. I refuse to use anything else now. Literally works 20x better than pb blaster. Stuff is amazing. I have never had it fail to break anything loose.

http://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroil-Penetrating-aerosol-AEROKROIL/dp/B000F09CEA

Also they make Sili Kroil which adds a silicon type lubricant, which works 10,000 times better than WD40 for lubricating.

http://www.amazon.com/SiliKroil-Penetrating-Solvent-aerosol-SILIKROIL/dp/B0003041WK

Again, I am a super novice...

​

I switched out to a glass bed simply because my stock bed was warped. The tip could touch on the corners and a sheet of paper would slide right through in the center. Once you get the bed level though, I don't think your adhesion problem will be as much of an issue. The magnetic bed it actually pretty nice. I actually ended up turning my bed down a little, to like 55. I was at 60, and it was working, but I was having adhesion problems as well and figured it might be a combination of speed and filament being too hot to stick with a temp that high. I also run my PLA at 210.

​

These springs made leveling the bed much easier. Springs

This was the bed I went with. I like it a lot.

awesome!

figured i'd check for similar stuff on amazon and found this: [Karter Scientific 208U2 Plastic Test Tube Rack for 15/17mm Tubes, Holds 50, Detachable] (http://www.amazon.com/Karter-Scientific-208U2-Plastic-Detachable/dp/B005Z4QWIK/)

from my measurements the WL vials are 17mm so should work great

Excellent start. Highly recommend getting some rising casters to get it off the wheels when you can.

https://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-17000-Workbench-Caster-Pack/dp/B00SX3T2LO

Gives you a more solid structure than sitting on the wheels :)

You can use a caliper to ballpark it, or you can find a scale that will tell you your approximate body fat percentage. I personally use the Fitbit Aria Scale.

I also carry a Fitbit One with me wherever I go. The Fitbit gives a pretty good estimate of the number of calories I burn each day just walking around doing stuff, and I can add in the calorie burn from my workouts on the Fitbit website as well. I keep track of everything I eat on the site too, so I can see exactly how much I'm eating vs how much I'm burning.

From my personal experience, I thought counting calories or macros was unnecessary, a pain in the ass, whatever, and that I could just 'eyeball' it and I'd be fine. Truth is I actually had no clue how much I was eating and how many calories I was burning each day. I was way overestimating my burn and underestimating my consumption. I was lifting and getting bigger, but I was putting on fat too.

You might want to look into doing a Leangains cut, a lot of people seem to get great results from it. Start reading here: http://rippedbody.jp/english/introduction-english/

EDIT: Also, have a look at this image:

http://files.builtlean.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/body-fat-percentage-men.jpg

See where you fit along that spectrum and it may give you some idea of where you are and where you want to be.

EDIT 2: I think you're also doing way too many reps on the bench. Shoot for 4 sets in the 8-10 rep range. If you want some size to your muscles, stay away from high reps. If your goal is pure strength, up the weight and drop down to about 5 reps per set.

http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-1AC-A1-II-VoltAlert-Non-Contact-Voltage/dp/B000EJ332O/

This is a higher quality one and it's still pretty affordable, these would indeed be pretty helpful. Sure, hidden cameras are inherently hidden but they require some basic stuff (Power, a point of view) and based on that you can surmise where they would be should they exist.

Someone who wants to creep you would want to get you naked so bathrooms and bedrooms, aimed at toilet/shower and bed/closet areas, from there you go for POV, where could a camera be that faces these areas. There are ultra small wifi cameras but most people would go with the easiest possible installation (i.e. wired to existing power sources and so on) so it's not as hard as it sounds.

Here's a link to those tubes. They're pretty common, you might be able to find a better price than that.

They're food-grade (obviously) so they supposedly work well. Haven't used them myself though. These should only be used for starters though. After storage you're likely not going to have enough viability in a single vial for a healthy pitch.

About $80. It's a lower-mid tier Apera. You could get one of their $40-$50 and I'm sure you'd be fine. They come in an awesome little case with a foam insert to hold the meter, testing cups, and calibration liquid. Here's a link if you're interested: https://www.amazon.com/Apera-Instruments-AI311-Replaceable-2-00-16-00/dp/B01ENFOIQE/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1520625309&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=apera&psc=1

Does anyone have experience with this pH meter?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ENFOIQE/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

Seems to have good reviews on Amazon but not much in the way from homebrewers. Looks like a nice unit, just want to make sure no one has had issues.

Replacing them is extremely simple. It's just a matter of turning off the power at the electrical panel, unscrewing the plate and switch/outlet, disconnecting the wires from the old switch/outlet, and reconnecting them to the new one. Three way switches just have one extra wire. This video gives a good overview of the process.

The only tool you might want to grab is a non-contact voltage tester to make sure the power is definitely turned off before you start handling the wires. A regular DMM would work as well if you already own one.

If you’re looking for a non contact voltage tester ( tick tracer) my personal favorite is the fluke.

Fluke 1AC-A1-II VoltAlert Non-Contact Voltage Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EJ332O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PMRkDb24ADV56

If you’re looking for a wiggy to check actual voltage I would recommend buying a volt meter. I currently use this one and love it.

Fluke T5600 Electrical Voltage, Continuity and Current Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006Z3GZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rPRkDbNV768AZ

This is the caliper we got . It works well but you need a second person to help you... Kind of

This is the PH tester I ended up purchasing. Middle of the road with lots of opportunities to upgrade. Apera Instruments AI311 PH60 Premium Waterproof pH Pocket Tester, Replaceable Probe, ±0.01 pH Accuracy, -2.00-16.00 pH Range https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ENFOIQE/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_LIm2DbA22PH0B


Your advice on the soil composition has been super helpful. I just ordered some additional perlite as I learned my mix is very light on non organics for airspace. I didn't even think about this until you posted. I ended up purchasing a 1 gal sprayer with a low pressure sprayer I'll post pics when it arrives. After some reads on other posts, I makes a lot of sense for reach and east of gentle watering (again, I never thought about this!).

Can you tell me a little more about recharge? I'm really unfamiliar. I'm pretty versed on compost teas but is there something to consider more into flower or late stage pre flush that has worked well for you? Again, I'm trying to do an entirely organic grow if possible.

This can be pretty subjective and without peeling the fat off your body and measuring it there's no way to know 100%. That being said there's a few things you can do to get a general idea.

First, you can compare yourself to some of the pictures out there and try to guess where you fit in. Example

Another option is to get some calipers and measure yourself. I've had these recommended to me and they seem to work pretty well.

At the very least, you can get calipers or a tape measure and keep track of trends, even if you don't have your exact bf%.

https://www.amazon.com/Bluelab-PENPH-Pen-Plant-Germination/dp/B005POOJHG/ref=asc_df_B005POOJHG/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167118301188&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15543687523906767160&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030904&hvtargid=pla-311195096389&psc=1

We use these on a commercial grow. 1000+ plants, 65 resi’s.
only have 4 of these meters and only have to replace one about every year. Kinda pricey, but accurate, dependable, and very well built.
Just try not to drop it into hard surfaces, that seems to do them in pretty quickly lol.
If your grow is set up somewhat permanently, I’d go with the Bluelab guardian. Forget ph’ing every again

I've had good results with the standard .4 nozzle. As long as it prints clean, I've had more success putting effort into post-processing. This stuff does wonders for painting. I've printed minis on .5 and .6 nozzles with similar results in quality.

Nice! I'm sure that'll look awesome. I suggest using bondo to fill cracks and divits and XTC-3D or a similar epoxy to cover the entire piece to smooth it out.

I would recommend getting one of these non-contact voltage testers (or similar). They work great and you don't need to have physical contact like a multi-meter. That's very handy if the wires are not exposed.

Mine saved my bacon when I was replacing the outlet in the bathroom. I shut off the breaker for the bathroom, but still tested the outlet to be sure. To my surprise, it was still live (must be a different circuit to handle hair dryers).

I use a IR temp gauge to measure the temp of the leave more than just go by with the tent thermometer reads. I have the Temperature power supply set to 75 degrees and it turns on at 76 degrees and kicks off when it gets to 73 since the window unit I have is cheap and just has an on and off along with fan speed and not much temp control. I could go cooler but I'm trying to save on the cost of energy. I run my flower from 7pm to 7am because it's easier to maintain the lower temp when the lights are off. You can find a new window unit on sale for around $100-$120. I got one at Walmart but later noticed one for cheaper at Atwoods.

My best results have been prints in clear resin, but "transparent" PLA can be enhanced as well.

I bought the following:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PFXK4JY

You mix it like epoxy, and lightly coat the outside. I use my hands (with gloves). It removes minor blemishes, and makes for a "smoother, shinier" part.

It is not for everyone; sometimes I prefer the "frosted" look on a part.

PRO TIP: Buy a box of thumb tacks. Put a bunch of them point up so your part can dry without sticking to anything.

If you want a basic template to follow for a woman:

• Cut to 20% body fat, bulk to 25% body fat, repeat, taking 3-4 months in each phase (weight changing ~ 1 lb per week).
  
  Log your weight & body fat (caliper) weekly to stay on track. If you get sick of that process, insert some months of eating at maintenance in between.
  
  You could start out by just cycling between 120-132 lbs for a couple of years, but it would be best to have a caliper & do it based on those readings.
  
  Basic Info | |
  --------- | :---------: |
  Gender | Female |
  Age | 21 |
  Height | 5'7" |
  Weight | 123 lbs |
  

• | - |
  BMI | 19.3 |
  BMI Categorization | Normal weight (18.5 - 24.99) |
  
• | - |
  Estimated Body Fat % | 22.6% |
  Estimated Fat Free Mass | 95 lbs |
  *Estimated Fat Mass | 28 lbs |
  
• | - |
  Estimated Goal Weight @ 30% BF | 136 lbs |
  Estimated Goal Weight @ 25% BF | 127 lbs |
  *Estimated Goal Weight @ 20% BF | 119 lbs |
  
• | - |
  Estimated Weight Change for 20% BF | 4 lbs |
  Estimated Time @ 1 lb/Week | 1 months |
  *Estimated Goal Date | 7/22/2016 |
  
• | - |
  BMR (Calorie burn per day at rest) | 1356 |
  Exercise Frequency | 3x / week |
  | BMR 1.375 |
  TDEE (Calorie burn per day w/ exercise) | 1864 |
  Estimates more accurate for untrained individuals. Use a caliper for actual values.
  
  Macros - Female (3x / week) | Calories | Protein (.8g/lb) | Fat (.4g/lb) | Carb | Fiber | lbs / Week |
  --------- | :---------: | :---------: | :---------: | :---------: | :---------: | :---------: |
  Lose Weight / 20% Deficit | 1491 | 98g | 49g | 164g | 21g | -0.75 |
  Lose Weight / 15% Deficit | 1584 | 98g | 49g | 187g | 22g | -0.56 |
  
• | - | - | - | - | - | - |
  Maintain Weight | 1864 | 98g | 49g | 257g | 26g | 0.00 |
  
• | - | - | - | - | - | - |
  Gain Weight / 5% Surplus | 1957 | 98g | 49g | 280g | 27g | 0.19 |
  Gain Weight / 10% Surplus | 2050 | 98g | 49g | 303g | 29g | 0.37 |
  

This stuff is awesome:

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Dual-Lock-Reclosable-Fastener/dp/B007OXK1AK

Much stronger attachment than normal velcro, and can be removed cleanly (might just need a bit of goo-gone to get all the residue)

I haven't had a need to put any on my synths, but I use it to hold pretty much everything else together.

going shopping? Here is a list

but seriously now, do you have fertilizer dedicated to veg and flower? If you don't already, maybe a pH pen to make sure you water is properly pH'ed. If you're worried about smell, maybe a carbon filter?

You have most of the essentials right now. The light, the timer, the grow tent environment (mylar). All I could really think of I added above. Good luck with the grow!

Mount your powerstrip on top, route the wiring into the underside of the top and route it forward, then mount a low profile surface mount switch on the underside of the top so you can just open the drawer and turn it on and off, you can then route it out the back of the box with just a cord and a plug or you can mount an recessed male plug on the back of the box that you can plug a cord into.

I used an IEC plug for the back of my powerbank project and was pretty happy with how it turned out. I used a locking IEC cord to come out of it which I can put a twist lock plug on for cord drops, etc.

For 80% of hardware work you just need a good, solid multi-tipped magnetic screwdriver and a pez dispenser full of excedrin.

Toss in a power supply tester like a Dr. Power II and you have nearly all hardware tools you need.

Just be aware that many software tools on Hirens are only licensed for personal use, using them for professional use would be a violation of license agreement.

If you're going to be checking networks, you're going to want a good fluke toner, and a fluke voltage tester so you don't kill yourself

You're also going to want a cat5 crimper that won't break

If you're troubleshooting big networks then pick up a fluke microscanner II, but only if it will save you several thousand bucks in effort.

I modeled and analyzed this hand truck.

You could select one part... The plastic wheel, for example. Lots of interesting geometry you could use to be both visually appealing, minimal material, strength and manufacturable. Most of that might be beyond the scope of the class though. Only two points of loading too (well, I guess there are scenarios where you'd have more).

Bluelab Ph Pen is one of the best pen style digital Ph meters available. Do a Google search and see what others say. I loved mine when I had it. I had to sell it when I moved.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005POOJHG?pc_redir=1413174374&robot_redir=1

You could wire it to a switch. The maker select comes with one like this for example.

Another option is to switch the power supply to an ATX one ( Computer power supply). Then you can either way a switch to turn it off and on, or use something like a raspberry pi to turn it on through wifi which is awesome.

Oh wow, I'll have to give these a go. I've been using a few of the Nalgene Travel Bottle Kit bottles for olive oil, hot sauce, etc, and soda bottle pre-forms for batteries and some other stuff. But they're too big for most things like seasoning/spices, and not big enough for stuff like pancake mix.

Short answer if you just freeze yeast the freezing water solidifies and punctures cell wells, killing most of the yeast.

Long answer if you add a 50/50 solution of (water or beer) with food grade glycerin the water will get cold but never freeze.

My process:

Harvest yeast- overbuilding a starter is the easiest way or you could harvest and wash your yeast.

Decant Beer from your starter or use water and half fill a 1 pt mason jar and top off the rest with food grade glycerin. Boiling at this point is probably unnecessary but I do it anyway just to make sure no bugs get transferred in. Cool.

I then spray everything I use with Starsan and then dip everything I’m using in to the boiling water.

I use Soda Preforms but will switch to 1.5 ounce glasses once I burn through my preforms because I can boil them killing anything and not have to worry about melting plastic plus they’re cheaper.

I fill them halfway with my Decanted Yeast Slurry and let it settle. You want the settled yeast to be about half of the Preform which is approximately 100 billion cells. I then Decant excess liquid off and top off with your 50/50 (Water or starter beer) and glycerin.

Cap/Label place in an insulated bag with an ice pack to protect from freezing/thaw cycles and place in the freezer.

This won't give you an immediate answer, but a caliper would tell you and they are handy to have around.

Even a super cheap harbor freight one would do. Personally, I like my not as cheap as it could be, but far from costly set.

Oh and get a valve cap.

Non-contact voltage tester is what I'd use. I linked a Fluke, but you should be able to pick up something comparable for around the house usage for around $20.

I'd bet it's 120v, and if a doorbell doesn't sound inside the house when you press the button, it's probably disconnected.

If not, there's a wire shoved in the walls or ceiling somewhere that's going hot every time you press the button.

Good luck.

You should try XTC! Its fantastic at filling on 3d prints, 30 minute cure time. Only takes 1 careful coat for fine prints, or 2-3 regular coats for less detailed prints. You can sand it smooth with 400 grit

https://www.amazon.com/XTC-3D-High-Performance-Print-Coating/dp/B00PFXK4JY

You might be interested in QLC+ (it's free and open source) and an Enttec DMX USB Pro mk I (same company as the DMXIS, but a hundred bucks less). I've programmed a show for a buddy's band to their click track and had a generally positive time with it. I'm a professional lighting nut, so I thought it was a bit restrictive, but that's more of a problem I have with preprogrammed shows than with the software.

Take the $200 you'd save with this control scheme instead and spent it on safety cables, velcro cable ties, a storage bin for your cables, computer, and DMX adapter, gaff tape, and pizza for when you get together to program and jam the first time!

Those links probably aren't the best options for each thing, I just wanted to link examples.

I bought similar on Amazon when they were prime for $67. They installed easy and seem to hold up well so far. I'm careful and slow when I move my bench around with a lot of weight thought. I'm mostly concerned that one of the wheels will get caught on sawdust or a seam in the concrete and ruin my day.

As far as do they work as you'd expect, yes. It's really easy to use your foot to lift the bench up.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SX3T2LO

I think I might have the same set or something similar. It is about $80 off of Amazon though I think I got mine cheaper/on sale. [Here's a link] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ENFOIQE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aQiACb0BWZMW9). Mine works pretty well and holds the calibration decently between days. I usually use mine for hot sauces since a lot of mine were thicker and bold colors which makes pH strips harder to use.

For non contact testers fluke makes one of the best ones.
http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-1AC-A1-II-VoltAlert-Non-Contact-Voltage/dp/B000EJ332O

This one will let you isolate the exact wire in the panel/box that is on, versus other testers that are so sensitive it will tic on wires that are merely around other wires that are hot.

In any case all electricians need to have a non contact tester in their bag, it helps keep everyone alive.

Also known as Ultem, it can be purchased here from CSHyde. There are several options there for size and thickness. The bonus is that these sheets come with adhesive already laminated to the sheet. I believe you can also get custom sizes, although larger sheets are no problem to cut to size.

Alternatively (and probably more common), you can purchase PEI sheets here on Amazon. The recommended adhesive (transfer tape) is here, and there may be other sizes for both available on Amazon as well as wBay.

The whole idea on using PEI as a print surface is that you get good print adhesion with most common print materials. Using a heated bed with PEI works great for getting prints to stick while warm, and also pop off of the print bed fairly easily as the bed cools.

I went with the stuff from CSHyde for convenience, but I think most users here are going with the Amazon stuff (they have thicker sheets which many users prefer as it can last longer before needing replacement).

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013HKZTA/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
http://www.amazon.com/TapeCase-squares-Converted-Adhesive-Transfer/dp/B007Y7D5NQ/
Do note I am using a rostock, but psi will work on all regardless, it's also acetone resistant, so you could clean really easily

It's hard to describe how tight it should be, but I believe I only loosened the arm about a quarter of a turn after screwing it in.

My apologies, I was a little unclear. The bearing should be able to move freely in the air when you push against the lever arm. When you push the lever arm in (like when you change filaments), you should be able to rotate the silver bearing in the air by hand without any trouble.

If you cannot spin the bearing, then it needs to be loosened a bit.

For your extruder spring, are you using a silver spring, similar to the stock bed/extruder springs, or a yellow spring that's commonly recommended as upgrades?

I used 4" heavy duty locking casters, they were fine. Another option is retractable casters like these (https://www.amazon.ca/POWERTEC-17000-Workbench-Caster-Pack/dp/B00SX3T2LO) I use them on a workbench and they're great.

Probably the coolest think i have found. I really want one for my area but its too small for a heater. if you want cheap plug in stuff this would be awesome https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KEYDNKK/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3W2SWX0CJYGCL&coliid=I33CPIYC3TOIPW

I think we found your problem! These things are inaccurate! You can't have a good PH reading without a nice PH pen. Plus it's your water that you should test not the soil. The soil it's just to check if everything is fine and you can check it with a PH pen too. Water your plant, wait for the runoff, take this runoff and check the PH.

Don't look further and buy a nice PH pen, I have this one, pretty happy with it.

"A gaffer in the motion picture industry and on a television crew is the head electrician, responsible for the execution (and sometimes the design) of the lighting plan for a production. The term gaffer originally related to the moving of overhead equipment to control lighting levels using a gaff. The gaffer's assistant is the best boy.[1]

Sometimes the gaffer is credited as Chief Lighting Technician (CLT)."
-Wikipedia

Side note: that's why the black tape used to secure/hide cords is called gaffer's tape

"In US and Canadian filmmaking, the key grip supervises all grip (lighting and rigging) crews and reports to the director of photography.[1]"
-Wikipedia

So the Key Grip is similar to the Gaffer, but has a focus on things like dollies, cranes, vehicles, etc.

I modeled the casters roughly after these, so yeah you would have to go around and engage them all before moving the bench.

Basically I think I want a split top and expect that's how i'll set it up at first, but I'm nervous I won't like it, so I thought I'd give myself both options.

I'll make a nice insert tool-holder strip thing and leave it split for a while, then close the gap if its not working for me. It will also be nice to not have a 200lb+ slab top when I move shops.

PSU: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Fused Switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Mosfet: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HEQVQAK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The PSU has a built-in fan that kicks on and off when the PSU gets warm. I don't plan on printing things with any crazy high temperatures, so these upgrades were probably a bit overkill, but I'd rather have components that are a bit more trustworthy than what comes with a $150 kit.

~$25 can get you a pretty darn good digital caliper tho.

https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-Electronic-Digital-Fractions-Stainless/dp/B001AQEZ2W/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_469_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=24JYAF83MNG8BTGTSMVR

I don't do super precise stuff with mine, but it's worked well for shimming electric motors inside of fan housings.

And it doesn't eat batteries while in storage. So ¯_(ツ)_/¯

welcome!
yeah most build videos i've seen usually omit them too, but it's usually cuz those people are accustomed to building so many. HELL, the other day i was calibrating my ESC's and for some reason blheli decided to make my motors go bat shit crazy (props off of course). Lucky, the smoke stopper didn't allow it to draw too much power. so yeah you just never know.
remembered a few more.

• liquid electrical tape
  
• multimeter
  
• exacto knife
  
• velcro.. and velcro battery straps
  
• hot glue gun
  
• 3M Dual Lock velcro.. this is for lipos in addition to battery strap. While a battery strap will HUG the battery to the kwad it's still liable to SLIDE out on a crash. This stuff is intense and will prevent the lipo from sliding. When applying to frame and lipo heat up the adhesive first with a blow dryer (heat gun in your case ;)) and then attach. The heat makes it SUPER STICKY.
  
• ammo can or lipo bag for lipo storage
  
• rubber bands.. i use those FAT rubber bands from broccoli to wrap around my lipo and keep my balance lead secure. I also have a few of these that work great
  
• also.. because you'll eventually want one.. start looking into an HD camera.. i personally have a runcam2 and love it.. the gopro5 is the more common one.. especially with bestBuy accidental plan.. the runcam3 is set to release here sometime soon.
  
  I've learned to prevent my battery straps from breaking (and they do) put a slab of hot glue near the plastic loop where it attaches to itself.. this part of the velcro is week on EVERY strap and this is where all of mine have broken from. After slapping a glob of hot glue in this location (both sides) i have yet to break one (well now i probably will, LOL).

Ditch the stroller and get something like this that you can strap the car seat to: Brica Roll 'n Go Car Seat Transporter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0074JKQ0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_i2CiDbM7MEPRB
Then you can gate check them all. We actually used a Magna hand cart and bungee cords last time we flew https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HVVSDU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_15CiDb9G4KKB5

Car seats that are FAA-approved should fit in the plane seats.

Buying this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RD6D2ZQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


and buying this in order to properly calibrate e-steps: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AQEZ2W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


These two things took my prints from adequate to pristine. Huge improvement.

But, I just found this prewired controller that's only $34.

It's a 10 Amp max but should be enough to run the refrigerator. It looks like a good deal.

Dual lock velcro also does a fantastic job at helping to hold a battery still if you're looking for a slightly more refined solution.

I dunno, I look online at my local stores inventory and I see "black duct tape" and some that say "no residue" but I dont know if they are actual gaffers tape (which is more like a cloth and not shiny plastic) like I would use at a show.


Ill have to see in person next time I go, if so it would make things easier for me to get it in a pinch for work.


Like if you check lowes or homedepot I dont see anything called gaffers tape or gaffe tape available here. If you go to guitarcenter.com you do.
I dont know if its just a labeling thing or not though.



You may already know this (sorry if so) but this is what Im talking about

https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Gaffer-GafferPower-Available-Multiple/dp/B00GZE3UJ8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1527720749&sr=8-1&keywords=gaffer+tape

its a cloth tape that leaves no residue and is very easy to tear

Just get one of these. They are VERY strong, and compact. We have two at the office, and I liked them so much I bought one for the house.

Even if your printer would have arrived with all 4 springs, one of the best, cheapest, and easiest upgrades for the Ender 3 is installing these Yellow springs

Kroil is much better than PB Blaster. Get a can and use it sparingly. https://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroil-Penetrating-aerosol-AEROKROIL/dp/B000F09CEA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518798021&sr=8-1&keywords=aerokroil

A good quality ratchet can be better than a cheap breaker bar at times. However, a good breaker bar is a very valuable tool. Also in this case, the proper tool would have been a crows foot and a breaker bar. You don't need crows feet very often, but when you need them you need them, and they really aren't too expensive.

I don't have that but I do have this Personal Dolly.

I live in an apartment and walking from the apartment to office to pick up my packages is way easier with this when I know I'm getting some heavy package or big box.

I also lend it to new neighbors moving in. They always appreciate saving their backs and make the job take half the time.

THESE are cheaper and more durable/waterproof. A little bit of spray paint or camo tape and it blends in just as well as the other mentioned containers. In my area we have a lot of waterways and these make GREAT paddle caches.

Another option is using a PEI sheet (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013HKZTA?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf ). I personally use a mirror and PEI. Nice flat surface with great hold. If you don't have an IKEA near you, Home Depot has a 12 pack of mirrors for $20.

Sticking with Apera I recommend the PH60.
https://www.amazon.com/Apera-Instruments-AI311-Replaceable-2-00-16-00/dp/B01ENFOIQE/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Replaceable tips are awesome!

You can buy them from Goulet pens, they have a 40 vials one.

I found this 50 vial holder, which is the same thing but bigger capacity. It works perfectly. (mine is almost full... I think I went overboard with it).

Alas. I guess I like the idea of a drum truck or hand cart. I got one of these and it's very useful. http://www.amazon.com/Magna-Personal-Capacity-Aluminum-Folding/dp/B000HVVSDU/ref=lp_553520_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1422146592&sr=1-1

This is what I'm using and it's been fine for the past 6 months; glossy finish. I think what Prusa includes is closer to 7 mil though.

I'm sure there are some differences in heat transfer properties or something with regards to using a thinner sheet; but the only things I've noticed are that the screen printing can distort the surface slightly (visible dimple, but can't feel it) and I need to be more careful with my removal tools so I don't accidentally scratch through it and into the heat bed. I had been using a super sharp putty knife, but switched to this recently (basically a thin metal kitchen spatula, with rounded corners).

You can use xtc-3d from smooth on to get a super nice smooth finish, that's what I did here

i went through 2 cheap ones before just buying this one and it has been perfect for almost two years. we only really calibrate maybe once/round and it's usually not even 0.1 off. it's also waterproof which can be handy depending on how you grow and how clumsy you are :)

Thank you, there aren't many post here with people that have used MC so it's great to get some recent info. I will flush them tonight and give them only pHd water for one feeding and then go to 0.75x of MC and a lesser frequency for Recharge. I also decided to finally splurge a little bit on a Bluelabs pH meter and hopefully not have it break on me like the cheap one I first got; it just arrived, actually.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Dual-Lock-Reclosable-Fastener/dp/B007OXK1AK

Something like this may work best.

I'm a big fan of this:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B005POOJHG/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1498767108&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=bluelab+ph+pen&dpPl=1&dpID=41k7gjUUstL&ref=plSrch

I've used one myself for 2 years and it is quick and stable, temperature compensating up to 50C. After using mine for 6 months, the brewery at wich I work bought one too! Bluelab has a good reputation for high quality, durable products and that has been my experience with this pH Pen.

These should work. or just search 3d printer bed springs on Amazon and pick one you like. They're super common, and basically all the same. Nothing too special.

Be more gentle when getting it off. Are you possible just ripping it off with brute strength? Like get this thing for $6.

Adhesion is important but overdoing it can lead to this issue. From what I see in the picture, you might have a slight elephants foot (the first layer is so smashed into the bed it squishes out sideways and creates a lip or burr on the part.

conformal coat EVERYTHING you can (https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Silicone-Modified-Conformal/dp/B008O9YIV6). use 'sensor-safe' silicone gasket maker everywhere. It's actually more than just damage, I got water in my HK Swamp Dawg airboat RX and it went full throttle, rather than failsafe. I was holding it, having just gotten it out of the water, draining it. I almost bit me.

also, consider a cheap gyro, really helps with wind, turning and super fun drifting.

Get yourself some Kano Kroil from Amazon and spray it down liberally. Wait 24 hours and then try to take the bolt off. I use said spray consistently at work to free up bolts that have rusted solid on 2000° boilers. It is worth every penny.

Kano Aerokroil Penetrating Oil, 10 oz. aerosol (AEROKROIL) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000F09CEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rQ.IDb8RWT79K

I bought this collapsing handtruck from Amazon. It's excellent, and a mere US$35, with free shipping. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HVVSDU/ref=oss_product

I bring this up because this design focuses on hinging the foot and uses extendable frame rods to get portability. It's a vertically-collapsing design, whereas yours seems to be collapsing horizontally.

I use the this Apera I bought from amazon.
Have had it for a while and hasn't failed yet. I follow manufacturer instructions on storage. I check the calibration once every couple months and it hasn't needed calibration in about a year now. I bought extra storage solution KCl from amazon as well. https://www.amazon.ca/Apera-Instruments-Waterproof-Replaceable-2-00-16-00/dp/B01ENFOIQE/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref_=oh_aui_i_sh_in_o0_img

Most definitely. I find new uses for it all the time and they were pretty cheap!

iGaging IP54 Electronic Digital Caliper 0-6" Display Inch/Metric/Fractions Stainless Steel Body https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AQEZ2W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_saf8ybK2EF6Y9

Collapsible hand truck. Magna Cart Personal 150 lb Capacity Aluminum Folding Hand Truck https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HVVSDU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_ELSjxb8VFWX8H

folding dolly's work just as well

edit I've seen these at Costo for pretty cheap and work well at triggering the sensor

Yeah inside the humidor then you get much better consistency.

AC Infinity MULTIFAN S2, Quiet 120mm USB Blower Fan with Speed Control, for Receiver DVR Xbox Modem AV Cabinet Cooling https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012CL2V3I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hHD9AbD4XJZ1Z


I have it at the back on the floor pointing up.


This is the temp switch I got:

Temperature Controller bayite BTC201 Pre-Wired Digital Outlet Thermostat, 2 Stage Heating and Cooling Mode, 110V - 240V 10A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KEYDNKK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WID9Ab9WE8K1C

Here's the extruder: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B96QMN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uSFjDbRH4ZQE4

Here's the springs: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GXC1G2B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DTFjDb1KAPZ15

There's tons more. All you need to do is search Amazon. Glad I could help.

Not to take biz away from a cool fountain pen company but this looks an awfully lot like a Karter Scientific 15/17mm tes tube rack. You can grab one for $6 from Amazon if cash is tight.

I have the thermoworks 8689. It seemed to never lock on to a pH, any temperature fluctuation would change the readout even though it has ATC. It also rarely showed that I hit my expected mash pH. I switched to this: Apera Instruments AI311 PH60 Premium Waterproof pH Pocket Tester, Replaceable Probe, ±0.01 pH Accuracy, -2.00-16.00 pH Range https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ENFOIQE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_u1i2DbFX4E7XX. Have only used it twice but both times it showed I hit my expected mash ph, it stayed steady, and this all without calibration. Last brew day, I used both, the apera matched my target, so I calibrated the thermoworks and it still did not match. Happy with the apera, but with two different pH readings I have no idea which is correct. Apera is matching my target so I'm inclined to believe it. The apera also comes in a nice case and is easier to keep stored in solution.